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How to Care for Japanese Maple

A woody plant native to East Asia, the japanese maple features hand-shaped leaves with five-pointed lobes that resemble the palm of a hand. It has been cultivated for millennia in Japan for bonsai creation. Extracts from the branches and leaves of this plant are used as medicine in Chinese traditional medicine.
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Symbolism

Peace, abundant blessings, gain through perseverance, harmony, beauty
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
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Sunlight
Partial sun
Japanese maple play
Japanese maple
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Japanese maple
Japanese maple
Japanese maple
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

The japanese maple prefers the soil to be kept moist, especially during the summer, because dry weather can cause its leaves to scorch and even fall off in severe cases. During the summer, in addition to watering the roots, foliage can be sprayed during the evening to increase the humidity.
  • In the summer, seedlings growing in pots may need watering twice a day, in the morning and the evening.
  • In the spring and fall, watering should be carried out depending on the actual conditions. Watering can be reduced slightly as the temperature drops in the fall, which will help the leaves to change color.
  • In the winter, it is only necessary to ensure that the soil does not dry out.
Attention should be paid to the watering of seedlings grown in gardens during the early stages. At later stages, water should be supplied according to the weather, that is if there is no rain for more than two weeks in the summer.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Japanese maple?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Japanese maple prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Japanese maple too much/too little?
An overwatered Japanese maple can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Japanese maple recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Japanese maple indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Japanese maple outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Japanese maple?
The Japanese maple likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Japanese maple generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Japanese maple?
The Japanese maple generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Japanese maple is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Japanese maple is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Japanese maple continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Japanese maple a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Japanese maple according to different seasons or climates?
The Japanese maple needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Japanese maple to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Japanese maple will need less water during the winter. Since the Japanese maple will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Japanese maple growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Japanese maple can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Japanese maple and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Japanese maple’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Japanese maple’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Japanese maple in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Japanese maple mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Japanese maple in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Japanese maple begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Japanese maple important?
Watering the Japanese maple helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Japanese maple thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Potted seedlings should be given slow-release fertilizer only. For seedlings grown in gardens, fertilizer should be applied three times a year: once in the early spring, once in early summer for the growth period, and once in the fall.

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Japanese maple since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Japanese maple plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Japanese maple outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Japanese maple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Japanese maple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Japanese maple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Japanese maple. Doing so will prompt your Japanese maple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Japanese maple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Japanese maple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Japanese maple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Japanese maple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Japanese maple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Japanese maple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Japanese maple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Japanese maple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Japanese maple may also need
To fertilize your Japanese maple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Japanese maple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Japanese maple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Japanese maple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Japanese maple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Japanese maple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Japanese maple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Japanese maple.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Japanese maple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Japanese maple will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Japanese maple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Japanese maple?
Regardless of which kind of Japanese maple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Japanese maple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Japanese maple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Japanese maple. Doing so will prompt your Japanese maple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Japanese maple?
The first time that you should fertilize your Japanese maple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Japanese maple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Japanese maple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Japanese maple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Japanese maple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Japanese maple?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Japanese maple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Japanese maple will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Japanese maple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Japanese maple need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Japanese maple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Japanese maple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Japanese maple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Japanese maple?
To fertilize your Japanese maple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Japanese maple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Japanese maple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my Japanese maple too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Japanese maple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Japanese maple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Japanese maple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Japanese maple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Japanese maple.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

The japanese maple has a certain requirement for sunlight and prefers a partially shaded area. In cases of exposure to direct sunlight in the summer, the leaves of most varieties will wither, so shading is required. As the plants get older and their root system grows, this condition will be less of a problem. A few varieties will tolerate exposure to direct sunlight, such as ‘Beni Maiko’ and ‘De Shojo’. Some weeping varieties can also tolerate exposure to direct sunlight, such as ‘Ao Shidare’.
Sunlight conditions will directly affect the ornamental appearance of japanese maple leaves. In the spring, sufficient sunlight will make the maple leaves more vivid, while in cases of insufficient sunlight or partial shading the leaf color may fade. During the fall, sunlight can also affect the leaf color. For potted plants, full exposure to sunlight is recommended during the spring and the fall, with partial shading in the summer.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Japanese maple need to grow?
Japanese maple requires about 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive. However, it also needs some shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sun damage. Morning sunlight is ideal for Japanese maple, but it can also tolerate some afternoon sun if the temperature is not too hot. To provide the perfect balance of sunlight, try planting Japanese maple in an area that gets partial sun, such as under a tree or on the east side of a building.
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What will happen if Japanese maple doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If Japanese maple is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves may turn yellow, dry out, or even burn. You may also notice that the plant wilts or becomes stunted. To prevent sun damage, make sure to give Japanese maple some shade during the hottest parts of the day. You can use a shade cloth or plant Japanese maple near taller plants that can provide some natural shade.
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What will happen if Japanese maple gets too much sunlight?
If Japanese maple doesn't get enough sunlight, it may grow tall and lanky, with sparse foliage. The leaves may also turn yellow or pale green, indicating that the plant is not producing enough chlorophyll due to lack of sunlight. To remedy this, try moving Japanese maple to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby foliage to allow more light to reach the plant.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning is mainly used to enhance internal ventilation, improve shoot formation, promote growth, and for shaping. The common approach to pruning is to remove any old or weak branches, remove any branches that disrupt the shape of the tree, and remove any branches that cross other branches. Pruning is used to control the plant according to the required height and shape. Generally, this follows the "Y-type" pruning method.
It is possible to prune a japanese maple throughout the year, but the coldest winter months should be avoided to prevent damage to the plant. Major pruning to shape a maple can be performed following defoliation in the fall, or prior to leaf growth in the spring. It is recommended to prune in the fall because withered and full buds can be easily distinguished.
According to the shaping plan, you can prune any withered buds and keep the full ones, thus making your tree healthier. For pruning in the summer, diseased, weak, or dead branches can be removed, mainly to enhance the tree's ventilation.
If grown as a potted plant, the roots can easily occupy the entire flowerpot due to the limited space. This can make a japanese maple prone to aging if an old flowerpot is not changed. It is recommended that old roots are pruned during the dormancy period, that is, cut off any old, coarse, diseased, and weak roots.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Japanese maple?
Despite having a relatively fast habit of growth, Japanese maple does not require very much pruning. It is not necessary to routinely prune this tree, however, it does require some pruning every once in a while. Pruning can be done to tidy this tree up and remove any diseased or damaged foliage. Or Japanese maple can be pruned for shaping.
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When is the best time to prune my Japanese maple?
Japanese maple should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing. The best time to prune Japanese maple is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant.
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How can I prune my Japanese maple?
Pruning Japanese maple is a fairly easy task if you know what to look for. To prune these trees, you will need a pair of sharp pruning shears. Using your pruning shears, remove any damaged or diseased parts of the tree. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. Additionally, leaving the lower limbs alone will help to prevent any disease-inducing stress, as well as suckers from forming.
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What should I do after pruning my Japanese maple?
There are no special requirements to follow after you have pruned your Japanese maple. It is recommended, however, that you dispose of any diseased foliage that has been removed from the tree away from any other plants. This is to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. After pruning your Japanese maple, you may apply a fertilizer treatment to encourage faster growth. Do not water the plants immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds.
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What should I be careful with when pruning my Japanese maple during different growing stages?
The best time to prune Japanese maple is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. This will increase ventilation and light, reduce disease infection and allow Japanese maple to grow more vigorously. When pruning branches you need to leave the strong ones and remove the weak ones, keeping healthy auxiliary branches that grow outwards at about 45 degrees. Branches that are too angled or too small should be removed. Pruning Saw is required if the branch is more than three quarters of an inch in size, pruning should be done in the direction of the "Branch bark ridge" to the "Branch collar" to allow for good healing. Branches that require a saw need to be pruned using the "three-cut method", which prevents the bark of the branch from tearing and creating cracks in the trunk, which can be detrimental to the recovery of the plant. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant to keep it looking its best as if it's possible. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Japanese maple?
The best thing to remember about Japanese maple is that they do not require routine pruning. Your tree will likely grow better if you prune it as and when it is necessary and no more than that. Additionally, you should also keep in mind that it is better to leave the lower limbs of this tree alone to prevent stress-induced diseases from attacking your tree. Different diameter branches require different pruning tools. If the tree is too tall, pruning needs to be done safely or by a professional.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

The japanese maple has good cold resistance and is able to tolerate low temperatures. The japanese maple is native to the margins of forests in China, Japan, and North Korea, so these trees generally prefer a humid environment. Most japanese maple plants have shallow root systems, so they should be watered frequently during the summer. For some varieties, a sprayed mist should be provided during the summer to increase the humidity of the air around them.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Japanese maple?
The best temperature for Japanese maple to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Japanese maple during different growing phases?
Research shows that Japanese maple will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Japanese maple warm in cold seasons?
Japanese maple can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Japanese maple suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Japanese maple if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Japanese maple gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Japanese maple gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Japanese maple?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Japanese maple healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Japanese maple warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Japanese maple, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Japanese maple with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Japanese maple in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Japanese maple is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Japanese maple from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Japanese maple extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Japanese maple in different seasons?
Japanese maple is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Japanese maple?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Japanese maple in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

The japanese maple does not have many specific requirements for soil. It is a forest native, so it prefers well-drained soil that is rich in humus and slightly acidic. Its main root will extend deep into the soil, but its tiny fibrous roots will be concentrated near the soil surface, so accumulated water in the soil tends to cause root rot.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Common propagation methods include grafting, taking cuttings, and sowing seeds.
Grafting is the most common propagation method. Seedlings of Acer palmatum or Acer oliverianum are usually selected for the rootstock. Grafted seedlings have strong roots and grow rapidly, but poor affinity is occasionally present in some cases. Seedlings with Acer oliverianum as the rootstock are less hardy.
Cuttings take longer to grow and are mostly used in the production of bonsai.
Sowing seeds is a common way to cultivate new varieties. The hybrid offspring of two different maples are sown and valuable individuals are then selected from the seedlings. The traits of the parents may not be maintained in the selected offspring.

Propagation

Propagating Japanese maple by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on. Its propagation can be done by cuttings, which is easy to do. Japanese maple can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful. Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℃ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Japanese maple, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Japanese maple into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Japanese maple there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Japanese maple around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Japanese maple to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Japanese maple is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Air layering also works to propagate trees successfully, but the procedure is relatively complicated. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Or you can just prepare air layering pods and a sharp, sanitized knife. Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2:Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry. If you have collected seeds from the tree, you can try to propagate the tree from its seeds. Only sow Japanese maple seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Japanese maple in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate. Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
The best time for planting or transplanting a japanese maple is following defoliation in the fall. At this time, the leaves will have fallen off so there is little transpiration and water loss can be avoided. In addition, the root system will still be growing at this time, preparing for regrowth the following spring. Transplanting should be avoided on the coldest days because cold wind can kill some of the shoots and branches. During the winter, in areas that cannot be sheltered from the wind, it is recommended to cover the branches.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

The best time to transplant japanese maple is from late spring to mid-summer, as it gives the plant ample time to establish and thrive. Choose a location with partial shade and well-draining soil. Remember to keep the roots moist during the process for optimal transplant success.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Needs excellent drainage in pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Japanese maple originates from the forests of Japan, Korea, and China, where it experiences moderate to high rainfall spread throughout the year, up to 60 inches annually. Moisture levels in these locales remain relatively consistent, which japanese maple has evolved to favor. This plant thrives on steady, evenly distributed watering without over-saturation, echoing the precipitation patterns of its natural habitat. Extremely dry periods can stress japanese maple, reinforcing the need for consistent moisture.
Learn More
Lighting
Partial sun
Japanese maple's sunlight needs are flexible; it can tolerate both areas bathed in light and areas that receive filtered light throughout the day. This adaptability originates from its home environment, with diverse light conditions. Insufficient lighting may reduce leaf coloration, while excessive can cause leaf scorch.
Learn More
Temperature
-30 41 ℃
Japanese maple grows best in a temperate climate with a preferred temperature range of 32 to 95 ℉ (0 to 35 ℃). It is native to Japan where the temperature ranges from 23 to 81 ℉ (-5 to 27 ℃). During the hot summer months, it is recommended to provide shade and ample water to help the plant adjust to the high temperatures. In colder conditions, it is best to protect the roots with mulch and provide wind barriers to prevent cold damage.
Learn More
Transplant
10-25 feet
The best time to transplant japanese maple is from late spring to mid-summer, as it gives the plant ample time to establish and thrive. Choose a location with partial shade and well-draining soil. Remember to keep the roots moist during the process for optimal transplant success.
Learn More
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Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Ensure the plant is frequently watered during the summer, because if it dries out its leaves may wither and the plant may even lose all of its leaves. For some varieties, it is recommended that seedlings are shaded in the summer. In the winter, plants grown in cold regions of the north should have any new branches protected so as to avoid them being damaged by cold winds.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
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3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Japanese maple based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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More About Japanese Maple

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Orange
Yellow
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 to 8 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 to 15 m

Name story

Japanese maple
This kind of maple tree originated from northeast Asia. The Japanese horticultural communities have selectively bred it for centuries and cultivated more than 1000 gardening species. Therefore, they are often called the Japanese maple.
Palmate maple
Compared with other maple trees, this particular maple tree has deeper lobes which is similar to the typical "palmate" shape. Hence, it is also called a palmate maple.

Usages

Environmental Protection Value
It has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and smoke and dust, and can purify air.
Garden Use
Japanese maple is a deciduous tree commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its unusual bark and brilliant yellow foliage in fall. Its branching makes it suitable as a shade tree. Japanese maple is appropriate for Japanese-style gardens. Suggested companion plants include Japanese or Cushion Spurge for color contrasts. Alternatively, grow alongside Holly or Azaleas.
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Common Problems

Why does my japanese maple not change color?

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The change in leaf color is the result of a combination of factors. Generally speaking, leaf color is affected by temperature, sunlight, humidity, and vigor. A good color effect can only be obtained with appropriate changes in temperature, a certain amount of sunlight, and a certain degree of humidity. If there is a sharp drop in temperature, the leaves will simply fall off. The color will fade if there is insufficient sunlight. If there is inadequate humidity, the color will not be bright enough to provide a good display.

Why do the branches look short and stunted?

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This is generally due to poor root growth. The plant takes in insufficient nutrients to grow healthy new branches, so any new branches are short, meaning that an elegant shape cannot be obtained. The roots of newly transplanted japanese maple trees generally do not recover, but this situation can be improved by the second year if the japanese maple is well cared for.

Why should the leaves be removed in the fall?

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In some regions, the leaves can suffer from leaf burn and margin scorch if exposed to too much strong sunlight during the summer. If no protective measures are taken at this time, the leaf color in the fall will be very poor and the leaves may even fall off in advance, spoiling the ornamental effect. If a maple has severely scorched leaves, some of these leaves may be removed during August and September. It is not recommended to remove leaves from less vigorous japanese maple varieties, such as Acer shirasawanum aureum.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
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Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full shade
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
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2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
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Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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main-image
Japanese Maple
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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main-image
Japanese Maple
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Japanese maple

How to Care for Japanese Maple

A woody plant native to East Asia, the japanese maple features hand-shaped leaves with five-pointed lobes that resemble the palm of a hand. It has been cultivated for millennia in Japan for bonsai creation. Extracts from the branches and leaves of this plant are used as medicine in Chinese traditional medicine.
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Symbolism

Peace, abundant blessings, gain through perseverance, harmony, beauty
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The japanese maple prefers the soil to be kept moist, especially during the summer, because dry weather can cause its leaves to scorch and even fall off in severe cases. During the summer, in addition to watering the roots, foliage can be sprayed during the evening to increase the humidity.
  • In the summer, seedlings growing in pots may need watering twice a day, in the morning and the evening.
  • In the spring and fall, watering should be carried out depending on the actual conditions. Watering can be reduced slightly as the temperature drops in the fall, which will help the leaves to change color.
  • In the winter, it is only necessary to ensure that the soil does not dry out.
Attention should be paid to the watering of seedlings grown in gardens during the early stages. At later stages, water should be supplied according to the weather, that is if there is no rain for more than two weeks in the summer.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Potted seedlings should be given slow-release fertilizer only. For seedlings grown in gardens, fertilizer should be applied three times a year: once in the early spring, once in early summer for the growth period, and once in the fall.
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Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Japanese maple since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Japanese maple plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Japanese maple outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Japanese maple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Japanese maple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Japanese maple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Japanese maple. Doing so will prompt your Japanese maple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Japanese maple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Japanese maple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Japanese maple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Japanese maple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Japanese maple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Japanese maple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Japanese maple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Japanese maple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Japanese maple may also need
To fertilize your Japanese maple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Japanese maple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Japanese maple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Japanese maple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Japanese maple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Japanese maple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Japanese maple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Japanese maple.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Japanese maple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Japanese maple will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Japanese maple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The japanese maple has a certain requirement for sunlight and prefers a partially shaded area. In cases of exposure to direct sunlight in the summer, the leaves of most varieties will wither, so shading is required. As the plants get older and their root system grows, this condition will be less of a problem. A few varieties will tolerate exposure to direct sunlight, such as ‘Beni Maiko’ and ‘De Shojo’. Some weeping varieties can also tolerate exposure to direct sunlight, such as ‘Ao Shidare’.
Sunlight conditions will directly affect the ornamental appearance of japanese maple leaves. In the spring, sufficient sunlight will make the maple leaves more vivid, while in cases of insufficient sunlight or partial shading the leaf color may fade. During the fall, sunlight can also affect the leaf color. For potted plants, full exposure to sunlight is recommended during the spring and the fall, with partial shading in the summer.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is mainly used to enhance internal ventilation, improve shoot formation, promote growth, and for shaping. The common approach to pruning is to remove any old or weak branches, remove any branches that disrupt the shape of the tree, and remove any branches that cross other branches. Pruning is used to control the plant according to the required height and shape. Generally, this follows the "Y-type" pruning method.
It is possible to prune a japanese maple throughout the year, but the coldest winter months should be avoided to prevent damage to the plant. Major pruning to shape a maple can be performed following defoliation in the fall, or prior to leaf growth in the spring. It is recommended to prune in the fall because withered and full buds can be easily distinguished.
According to the shaping plan, you can prune any withered buds and keep the full ones, thus making your tree healthier. For pruning in the summer, diseased, weak, or dead branches can be removed, mainly to enhance the tree's ventilation.
If grown as a potted plant, the roots can easily occupy the entire flowerpot due to the limited space. This can make a japanese maple prone to aging if an old flowerpot is not changed. It is recommended that old roots are pruned during the dormancy period, that is, cut off any old, coarse, diseased, and weak roots.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The japanese maple has good cold resistance and is able to tolerate low temperatures. The japanese maple is native to the margins of forests in China, Japan, and North Korea, so these trees generally prefer a humid environment. Most japanese maple plants have shallow root systems, so they should be watered frequently during the summer. For some varieties, a sprayed mist should be provided during the summer to increase the humidity of the air around them.
What is the optimal temperature for Japanese maple?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The japanese maple does not have many specific requirements for soil. It is a forest native, so it prefers well-drained soil that is rich in humus and slightly acidic. Its main root will extend deep into the soil, but its tiny fibrous roots will be concentrated near the soil surface, so accumulated water in the soil tends to cause root rot.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Common propagation methods include grafting, taking cuttings, and sowing seeds.
Grafting is the most common propagation method. Seedlings of Acer palmatum or Acer oliverianum are usually selected for the rootstock. Grafted seedlings have strong roots and grow rapidly, but poor affinity is occasionally present in some cases. Seedlings with Acer oliverianum as the rootstock are less hardy.
Cuttings take longer to grow and are mostly used in the production of bonsai.
Sowing seeds is a common way to cultivate new varieties. The hybrid offspring of two different maples are sown and valuable individuals are then selected from the seedlings. The traits of the parents may not be maintained in the selected offspring.
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Propagation

Propagating Japanese maple by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on. Its propagation can be done by cuttings, which is easy to do. Japanese maple can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful. Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℃ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Japanese maple, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Japanese maple into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Japanese maple there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Japanese maple around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Japanese maple to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Japanese maple is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Air layering also works to propagate trees successfully, but the procedure is relatively complicated. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Or you can just prepare air layering pods and a sharp, sanitized knife. Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2:Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry. If you have collected seeds from the tree, you can try to propagate the tree from its seeds. Only sow Japanese maple seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Japanese maple in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate. Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The best time for planting or transplanting a japanese maple is following defoliation in the fall. At this time, the leaves will have fallen off so there is little transpiration and water loss can be avoided. In addition, the root system will still be growing at this time, preparing for regrowth the following spring. Transplanting should be avoided on the coldest days because cold wind can kill some of the shoots and branches. During the winter, in areas that cannot be sheltered from the wind, it is recommended to cover the branches.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best time to transplant japanese maple is from late spring to mid-summer, as it gives the plant ample time to establish and thrive. Choose a location with partial shade and well-draining soil. Remember to keep the roots moist during the process for optimal transplant success.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Ensure the plant is frequently watered during the summer, because if it dries out its leaves may wither and the plant may even lose all of its leaves. For some varieties, it is recommended that seedlings are shaded in the summer. In the winter, plants grown in cold regions of the north should have any new branches protected so as to avoid them being damaged by cold winds.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
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Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Japanese maple based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More more
Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More more
Scars
Scars  Scars  Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering  Fruit withering  Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More more
Black spot
Black spot  Black spot  Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Learn More more
Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Learn More more
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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care_more_info

More About Japanese Maple

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Orange
Yellow
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 to 8 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 to 15 m

Name story

Japanese maple
This kind of maple tree originated from northeast Asia. The Japanese horticultural communities have selectively bred it for centuries and cultivated more than 1000 gardening species. Therefore, they are often called the Japanese maple.
Palmate maple
Compared with other maple trees, this particular maple tree has deeper lobes which is similar to the typical "palmate" shape. Hence, it is also called a palmate maple.

Usages

Environmental Protection Value
It has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and smoke and dust, and can purify air.
Garden Use
Japanese maple is a deciduous tree commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its unusual bark and brilliant yellow foliage in fall. Its branching makes it suitable as a shade tree. Japanese maple is appropriate for Japanese-style gardens. Suggested companion plants include Japanese or Cushion Spurge for color contrasts. Alternatively, grow alongside Holly or Azaleas.
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care_faq

Common Problems

Why does my japanese maple not change color?

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The change in leaf color is the result of a combination of factors. Generally speaking, leaf color is affected by temperature, sunlight, humidity, and vigor. A good color effect can only be obtained with appropriate changes in temperature, a certain amount of sunlight, and a certain degree of humidity. If there is a sharp drop in temperature, the leaves will simply fall off. The color will fade if there is insufficient sunlight. If there is inadequate humidity, the color will not be bright enough to provide a good display.

Why do the branches look short and stunted?

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This is generally due to poor root growth. The plant takes in insufficient nutrients to grow healthy new branches, so any new branches are short, meaning that an elegant shape cannot be obtained. The roots of newly transplanted japanese maple trees generally do not recover, but this situation can be improved by the second year if the japanese maple is well cared for.

Why should the leaves be removed in the fall?

more more
In some regions, the leaves can suffer from leaf burn and margin scorch if exposed to too much strong sunlight during the summer. If no protective measures are taken at this time, the leaf color in the fall will be very poor and the leaves may even fall off in advance, spoiling the ornamental effect. If a maple has severely scorched leaves, some of these leaves may be removed during August and September. It is not recommended to remove leaves from less vigorous japanese maple varieties, such as Acer shirasawanum aureum.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Partial sun, Full shade
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
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2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
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Fertilizing
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Water
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Japanese Maple Watering Instructions
Japanese maple originates from the forests of Japan, Korea, and China, where it experiences moderate to high rainfall spread throughout the year, up to 60 inches annually. Moisture levels in these locales remain relatively consistent, which japanese maple has evolved to favor. This plant thrives on steady, evenly distributed watering without over-saturation, echoing the precipitation patterns of its natural habitat. Extremely dry periods can stress japanese maple, reinforcing the need for consistent moisture.
When Should I Water My Japanese Maple?
Importance of Timely Watering
Timely watering is crucial to the health and growth of japanese maple. It not only sustains everyday physiological activities but also contributes to the plant's resistance against pests and diseases. Adequate watering promotes vibrant foliage and strong root growth, all of which are vital for japanese maple's overall vitality.
Leaf Appearance
If japanese maple's leaves begin to look wilted, have a dull appearance or have brown edges, this would be a clear sign that they need to be watered. Brown or red spots may also appear when the plant is dehydrated.
Soil Moisture
Check soil dryness of japanese maple. Stick your finger into the soil, about a couple of inches deep; if it feels dry to this depth, it's a sign to water the plant. Do not wait until the entire soil mass has dried out completely.
Seasonal Changes
Japanese maple requires more water in the hot and dry summer months. If the weather is particularly dry, windy or hot, it can lead to dehydration, so watch out for environmental conditions as a cue for watering.
Plant Posture
A thirsty japanese maple may exhibit a droopy posture. If the typically firm and erect branches or twigs start to droop or sag, that might indicate the need for watering.
Risks of Incorrect Watering
Inappropriate watering can harm the japanese maple. Overwatering can cause root rot, fungal diseases, yellowing foliage, and leaf drop; underwatering can result in wilting, browning leaves, leaf scorch, and shock that can stunt the plant's growth or even cause it to die. Hence, recognizing the signs indicating the need for watering is essential.
How Should I Water My Japanese Maple?
Watering Requirements
Japanese maple requires regular watering to maintain optimal hydration. However, it is important to avoid overwatering, as this plant is sensitive to excess moisture and can develop root rot.
Watering Technique
The most effective watering technique for japanese maple is the bottom-watering method. This involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb moisture from the bottom up. This technique prevents water from directly touching the foliage, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and leaf damage.
Special Equipment
It may be beneficial to use a moisture meter to accurately gauge the moisture level in the soil. This can help determine when it is time to water the plant. Additionally, using a watering can with a narrow spout can enable precise watering, ensuring that water reaches the base of the plant without excessively wetting the foliage.
Focus Areas
When watering japanese maple, it is important to focus on thoroughly moistening the root ball. Water should be applied directly to the soil around the base of the plant, avoiding excess water on the leaves. To prevent water from accumulating at the base of the pot, ensure proper drainage.
Nuances of Watering
It is crucial to strike a balance in watering japanese maple. While it requires regular moisture, it is equally important to allow the soil to partially dry out between watering sessions to prevent waterlogged conditions. The frequency of watering depends on various factors such as climate, pot size, and soil type. It is recommended to monitor the moisture level in the soil and adjust the watering accordingly to ensure optimal hydration.
Additional Tips
Avoid using cold or chlorinated water for japanese maple. It is best to use room temperature water or allow tap water to sit for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate. Misting the foliage occasionally can help increase humidity levels around the plant, but should not be relied upon as the primary method of watering.
How Much Water Does Japanese Maple Really Need?
natural inclination
Japanese maple originates from regions in Japan, Korea, and China, where the climate is predominantly humid. These conditions have imbued it with a moderate need for water, leaning towards moisture-rich environments.
optimal water quantity
For japanese maple, the water quantity must be regulated based on several factors. Japanese maple's pot size invariably determines the volume of water it can hold and absorb. However, the size of the plant plays a crucial role as well. For a pot of approximately 12 inches in height and breadth, it is recommended to provide between 1.5 to 2 gallons of water. This amount will deepen in respect to the size of the plant and the spread of its roots. Always be sure to saturate the soil until it drains from the bottom, ensuring that the water has reached japanese maple's entire root system.
condition indicators
Japanese maple sends out clear signals of its water needs. Healthy japanese maple leaves are vibrant, and the plant displays its characteristic branching habit. If the leaves get pale, wilt, or start falling off, it might be a sign of under-watering. On the other hand, if the leaves yellow and the plant growth becomes stunted, it could indicate over-watering.
over under watering
Over-watering can lead to root rot and eventually kill japanese maple. Under-watering, meanwhile, can dehydrate the plant, causing leaf and branch drop. Both scenarios can threaten the survival of japanese maple; therefore, accurate watering remains fundamental to its health.
root depth
Japanese maple's roots can be relatively deep, urgent for a thorough watering that reaches the bottom of the pot. If the top of the soil appears dry but the underlying layers are wet, that can also be an indicator of excess water.
How Often Should I Water Japanese Maple?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Japanese Maple?
Water Type Guide for japanese maple
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - japanese maple prefers a well-draining soil and should not be excessively saturated with water.
Water Types
Rainwater: Best suited for japanese maple as it is natural, free of chemicals, and has a balanced pH level.
Distilled Water: A suitable alternative to rainwater that is free of impurities and minerals.
Filtered Water: Can be used as long as it removes any harmful contaminants.
Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available, but it may contain chlorine and other chemicals that can be harmful to the plant.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - japanese maple is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can cause leaf burn and overall stress to the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Moderate - japanese maple may be sensitive to high levels of fluoride in tap water.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on japanese maple. This allows the chlorine to evaporate and makes it safer for the plant.
Water Filters: Using a water filter can help remove chlorine, fluoride, and other contaminants from tap water before using it on japanese maple.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - japanese maple generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Japanese Maple's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water japanese maple in Spring?
In spring, japanese maple embarks on its active growth period, resulting in increased water needs. It鈥檚 vital to ensure the soil around the plant is consistently moist, but not waterlogged. As the ground begins to thaw from winter cold, root activity in japanese maple resumes, requiring more hydration. However, be cautious not to overwater, as this can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot. A good practice is to water deeply to promote deeper root growth, which helps the tree to withstand summer's heat.
How to Water japanese maple in Summer?
Summer brings higher temperatures, potentially causing japanese maple's soil to dry out faster. To compensate, you may need to water your japanese maple more frequently. However, it's essential to avoid overwatering, as japanese maple doesn't cope well with overly wet conditions. Instead, you should aim to keep the soil around japanese maple consistently moist. It's recommended to water your japanese maple in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler to prevent water loss due to evaporation.
How to Water japanese maple in Autumn?
Watering requirements for japanese maple reduce in autumn due to cooler temperatures and decreased growth. The plant starts preparing for dormancy during this season, so water deeply but less frequently. This watering approach will maintain a correct hydration level without promoting excessive, late-season growth that might not harden off by winter. Additionally, be mindful of autumn rains which might naturally provide sufficient water.
How to Water japanese maple in Winter?
Winter is a time of dormancy for japanese maple. Consequently, its water requirements are minimal during this season. Water only if the winter is especially dry, and the ground isn't frozen. Overwatering can cause root damage and promote fungal growth, so it's best to err on the side of dryness. Make sure to mulch around the base of the plant to help insulate the root system from extreme cold and to conserve moisture.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Japanese Maple Watering Routine?
Watering Tools
Using a watering wand or hose with a gentle nozzle attachment can help distribute water evenly across the surface of the soil, ensuring thorough hydration without causing soil erosion or damage to delicate foliage.
Early Morning Watering
Water japanese maple early in the morning to allow the water to soak into the soil before the sun's heat increases evaporation rates. This optimizes water absorption and helps prevent moisture loss.
Mulching
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, around the base of japanese maple can help retain soil moisture and regulate soil temperature, reducing the need for frequent watering.
Checking Soil Moisture
To assess japanese maple's soil moisture beyond the surface level, insert a small trowel or your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry at this depth, it's time to water.
Planting in Well-Draining Soil
Ensure japanese maple is planted in well-draining soil that doesn't hold excessive water. Poorly draining soil can lead to root rot, so amending the soil with organic matter can improve drainage.
Watering Frequency
While watering frequency may vary depending on environmental conditions, japanese maple generally prefers its soil to dry out slightly between watering sessions. Water deeply, allowing water to reach the plant's root zone.
Avoiding Over-Watering
Over-watering can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot in japanese maple. Monitor the soil moisture levels and only water when necessary, ensuring the soil has good drainage and doesn't stay constantly soggy.
Signs of Thirst
When japanese maple is in need of water, the leaves may wilt, and their color may appear dull. Additionally, the soil around the plant may feel completely dry.
Signs of Over-Watering
If the leaves of japanese maple are yellowing or developing brown spots, it may indicate over-watering. Excessive moisture in the soil can also lead to root rot and a foul odor.
Watering during Heatwaves
During heatwaves, japanese maple may require more frequent watering to prevent dehydration. Monitor the soil moisture closely and adjust the watering schedule accordingly.
Watering during Extended Rain
During prolonged rainy periods, japanese maple may not require additional watering as the soil could already be saturated. Assess the soil moisture level before watering to prevent over-watering.
Watering when Stressed
When japanese maple is stressed, such as after transplanting or during periods of extreme weather, provide consistent and adequate water to help it recover and regain vigor.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Japanese Maple
Overview of Hydroponics
Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil, using a water-based nutrient solution to provide the necessary nutrients. This technique offers precise control over the plant's growing conditions and can result in faster growth and higher yields.
Best Hydroponic System for japanese maple
The nutrient film technique (NFT) system is well-suited for growing japanese maple hydroponically. In this system, a thin film of nutrient solution flows over the roots, providing both water and nutrients. The NFT system allows for effective oxygenation of the roots and prevents waterlogging, which makes it ideal for japanese maple's needs.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
Japanese maple thrives in a balanced nutrient solution with the following concentrations (in parts per million - ppm): Nitrogen (N) - 100-150 ppm, Phosphorus (P) - 50-75 ppm, Potassium (K) - 150-200 ppm. The pH of the nutrient solution should be maintained between 5.8-6.2. It is essential to regularly monitor and adjust the nutrient solution to ensure optimal growth.
Challenges in Hydroponic Cultivation of japanese maple
Root rot is a common issue faced when growing japanese maple hydroponically. To prevent this, it is crucial to maintain proper oxygenation of the roots and avoid over-watering. Nutrient imbalances can also occur, leading to stunted growth or nutrient deficiencies. Regular monitoring of the nutrient solution and adjusting concentrations accordingly can help prevent these challenges. Japanese maple requires a moderate amount of light, so providing sufficient artificial lighting can be a challenge in some setups.
Monitoring japanese maple's Health in Hydroponics
In a hydroponic setup, japanese maple's leaves can indicate its overall health. Yellowing or wilting leaves may indicate nutrient deficiencies or imbalances. Leaf browning or burned edges can be a sign of excessive nutrient concentrations or light intensity. Checking the roots for any signs of rot or discoloration is also important. Regular monitoring of the nutrient solution's pH and EC (electrical conductivity) levels is essential to ensure optimal nutrient uptake.
Adjusting Hydroponic Environment for japanese maple
As japanese maple progresses through different growth stages, adjustments to the hydroponic environment may be necessary. During the vegetative stage, provide a nutrient solution with a slightly higher nitrogen concentration to promote leaf growth. As japanese maple enters the flowering or fruiting stage, adjusting the nutrient solution to have a slightly higher phosphorus and potassium concentration can support flowering and fruit development. Light duration can also be adjusted to mimic seasonal changes.
Nutrient Solution
Japanese maple prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth.
Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) system is ideal for growing japanese maple hydroponically.
Challenges
Root rot, nutrient imbalances, and light requirements are common challenges when growing japanese maple hydroponically.
Monitoring japanese maple's Health
Regularly check the leaves for signs of wilting, yellowing, browning, or burning. Monitor the roots for any signs of rot or discoloration. Maintain pH and EC levels in the nutrient solution.
Adjusting Hydroponic Environment
Adjust nutrient concentrations based on the growth stage. Adjust light duration to mimic seasonal changes.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Japanese maple is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Japanese maple is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Japanese Maple
Why are the leaves of my japanese maple turning brown?
Often, brown leaves indicate overwatering. Japanese maple prefers well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or holds too much moisture, the plant could be suffering from root rot. Modify your watering schedule and improve the soil's drainage by adding in coarse sand or gravel.
Why are the edges of my japanese maple leaves turning crispy and curling up?
This could mean that your japanese maple is under watered, or it's receiving too much sun. Ensure that your soil is consistently moist but not waterlogged, and if necessary, move your plant to a location where it gets partial shade.
Why is my japanese maple losing leaves despite adequate watering?
Although watering could be adequate, the water may not be soaking deep enough into the soil. For japanese maple, deep watering is critical to encourage the development of a robust root system. Try watering your japanese maple deeply and less frequently.
The leaves of my japanese maple are yellowing. What's causing this?
Yellowing leaves may be a sign that your japanese maple is being overwatered. This plant prefers a consistently damp, but not water-logged soil. Adjust your watering practices to ensure soil is not remaining soggy for extended periods.
Why does the foliage of my japanese maple look burnt even though it’s well-watered?
If your japanese maple is well-watered but the foliage appears burnt, the issue may be with water quality. This plant is sensitive to chemicals such as chlorine or minerals in hard water. Try using rainwater or filtered water for irrigation.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade, Full sun
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Japanese maple's sunlight needs are flexible; it can tolerate both areas bathed in light and areas that receive filtered light throughout the day. This adaptability originates from its home environment, with diverse light conditions. Insufficient lighting may reduce leaf coloration, while excessive can cause leaf scorch.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Japanese maple is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Slower or no new growth
Japanese maple enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your japanese maple may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Japanese maple thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Japanese maple grows best in a temperate climate with a preferred temperature range of 32 to 95 ℉ (0 to 35 ℃). It is native to Japan where the temperature ranges from 23 to 81 ℉ (-5 to 27 ℃). During the hot summer months, it is recommended to provide shade and ample water to help the plant adjust to the high temperatures. In colder conditions, it is best to protect the roots with mulch and provide wind barriers to prevent cold damage.
Regional wintering strategies
Japanese maple has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Japanese maple is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Japanese maple should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Japanese Maple?
The best time to transplant japanese maple is from late spring to mid-summer, as it gives the plant ample time to establish and thrive. Choose a location with partial shade and well-draining soil. Remember to keep the roots moist during the process for optimal transplant success.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Japanese Maple?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Japanese Maple?
The ideal time for transplanting japanese maple is during the late spring to midsummer period. This timing allows for successful root establishment before weather cools. Your japanese maple will thrive with this nurturing headstart!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Japanese Maple Plants?
For transplanting japanese maple, it's best to give it plenty of room to grow. Space the plants 10-25 feet (3-7.6 meters) apart, ensuring they'll have adequate space to thrive and spread out as they mature.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Japanese Maple Transplanting?
To give japanese maple a great start, prepare a well-draining soil mix consisting of organic matter and compost. Add in a slow-release fertilizer, such as a balanced 10-10-10, to provide essential nutrients for strong growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Japanese Maple?
When choosing a location for japanese maple, consider a spot that receives partial sun or dappled shade. This will protect the delicate foliage from scorching while still providing enough light for the plant to flourish.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Japanese Maple?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and japanese maple.
Shovel or Spade
To dig the planting hole and remove the japanese maple from its original location.
Pruners or Scissors
To trim any damaged roots or branches during transplanting.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the japanese maple after transplanting to settle the soil and establish strong roots.
Organic Mulch
To help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds around the japanese maple.
Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart
To transport the japanese maple and any needed tools or soil amendments.
How Do You Remove Japanese Maple from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation

Ensure that you select a suitable location for your japanese maple that has been decided. The hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball and just as deep. Gently loosen the roots of the japanese maple if it is root-bound, and trim any damaged roots.

Step2 Planting Hole

Dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root ball and twice as wide, ensuring that the japanese maple is not planted too deep to prevent rot. Add any necessary soil amendments and mix them in with the native soil.

Step3 Positioning

Gently lower the japanese maple into the hole and position it so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Spread the roots out evenly in the hole, and ensure the japanese maple is straight and not leaning.

Step4 Filling the Hole

Fill in the hole with the native soil, and press it gently around the root ball to eliminate air pockets. Make sure you don't bury the japanese maple deeper than it was in its original location.

Step5 Watering

Water the japanese maple generously after transplanting to settle the soil and help establish strong roots. Take care not to overwater.

Step6 Mulching

Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the japanese maple to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Japanese Maple
Step1 Preparation
Ensure that you select a suitable location for your japanese maple that has been decided. The hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball and just as deep. Gently loosen the roots of the japanese maple if it is root-bound, and trim any damaged roots.
Step2 Planting Hole
Dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root ball and twice as wide, ensuring that the japanese maple is not planted too deep to prevent rot. Add any necessary soil amendments and mix them in with the native soil.
Step3 Positioning
Gently lower the japanese maple into the hole and position it so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Spread the roots out evenly in the hole, and ensure the japanese maple is straight and not leaning.
Step4 Filling the Hole
Fill in the hole with the native soil, and press it gently around the root ball to eliminate air pockets. Make sure you don't bury the japanese maple deeper than it was in its original location.
Step5 Watering
Water the japanese maple generously after transplanting to settle the soil and help establish strong roots. Take care not to overwater.
Step6 Mulching
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the japanese maple to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
How Do You Care For Japanese Maple After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the japanese maple consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots. Gradually reduce watering frequency as the japanese maple becomes established.
Pruning
Prune any damaged branches or deadwood after transplanting, and check for signs of diseases or pests regularly. Regular pruning of the japanese maple promotes healthy growth and good shape.
Fertilizing
Feed the japanese maple with a slow-release fertilizer in the spring and fall to promote healthy growth. Be sure not to over-fertilize, as this may harm the japanese maple.
Monitoring
Monitor the japanese maple closely for any signs of stress, such as wilted or yellowing leaves. Pay attention to potential pests or diseases, and address issues promptly to prevent further damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Japanese Maple Transplantation.
What's the best time to transplant japanese maple?
Late spring to midsummer is the ideal time to transplant japanese maple for better growth and establishment.
How much space should I allow between japanese maple plants?
Keep a spacing of 10 to 25 feet (3-7.5 meters) between japanese maple plants, allowing them ample space to grow.
What type of soil is best for transplanting japanese maple?
Japanese maple prefers well-draining, slightly acidic, sandy loam or loamy soil to facilitate good root development.
What's the proper planting depth for japanese maple?
Plant japanese maple with the root flare just above the soil surface, about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep.
How much water does japanese maple need after transplanting?
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water japanese maple deeply once or twice a week during the initial 3-4 weeks.
Do I need to add fertilizer while transplanting japanese maple?
It's not necessary but can help. Add a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in the planting hole to stimulate growth.
What sun exposure is best for japanese maple after transplanting?
Japanese maple thrives in partial shade to full sun; however, protection from harsh afternoon sun in hotter climates is beneficial.
How do I prepare the transplant site for japanese maple?
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix organic matter into the soil to enrich the site.
Do I need to stake japanese maple after transplanting?
Staking is usually not required, but for taller varieties or in windy areas, use a temporary stake for support.
What care is needed post-transplantation of japanese maple?
Monitor water, sunlight, and soil conditions for good growth. Prune any damaged or crossed branches to maintain shape.
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