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About
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
care_scenes care_scenes
More About How-Tos
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Seasonal Tips
care_pet_and_diseases care_pet_and_diseases
Pests & Diseases
care_more_info care_more_info
More Info

How to Care for Monk's-hood

Monk's-hood (Aconitum napellus) is an extremely toxic plant that is native to western and central Europe. It is deadly if ingested and its toxic properties can be absorbed through the skin, so the plant must never be handled without gloves. It has a long history of being used as a poison. In mid-summer, it produces dark purple-blue flowers.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Monk's-hood?

For monk's-hood, the prime transplanting season is during late summer to early autumn (S2-S3), as these cooler, wetting periods encourage strong root formations. Choose a location that offers shade and fertile, well-drained soil. Be gentle during the transplant to avoid damaging the roots.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Monk's-hood Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Partial sun
Monk's-hood has an affinity for areas with a balanced mix of sun and shade, although it can adapt to locations receiving full day sun. Originating from environments with dappled canopies, its health thrives with filtered light. Overexposure can lead to stress while underexposure hinders proper development.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 38 ℃
Monk's-hood is native to temperate zones and thrives best in temperatures ranging 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). For optimal growth in shifting seasons, it's advisable to adjust environment temperature to its preference.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
For monk's-hood, the prime transplanting season is during late summer to early autumn (S2-S3), as these cooler, wetting periods encourage strong root formations. Choose a location that offers shade and fertile, well-drained soil. Be gentle during the transplant to avoid damaging the roots.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Monk's-hood exemplifies a curious Feng Shui dynamic. While generally symbolizing protection, its vigorous energy might seem in opposition with the traditionally quiet, introspective North-facing areas. However, such contrast can bring balance and stave off complacency, according to some discerning Feng Shui practitioners.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

more
1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
more
2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
more
3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
more
4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
more
5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

more
1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
more
2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
more
3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
more
4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
more
5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

more
1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
more
2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
more
3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
more
4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

more
1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
more
2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Monk's-hood based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Aphids
Aphids Aphids
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Yellow spot
plant poor
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
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Black spot
plant poor
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
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Aphids
plant poor
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Nutrient deficiencies
plant poor
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
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care_more_info

More About Monk's-hood

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
45 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Blue
Purple
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 m

Usages

Garden Use
Despite its high toxicity, monk's-hood is cultivated in gardens for its showy, spike-like inflorescences that feature blue to purple flowers. Its decorative divided leaves can serve as a backdrop for other lower-growing flowering plants. Monk's-hood is attractive to insects and birds, however, it is toxic for mammals upon both contact and ingestion. When positioning it, make sure it is well out of reach.
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About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood
Monk's-hood

How to Care for Monk's-hood

Monk's-hood (Aconitum napellus) is an extremely toxic plant that is native to western and central Europe. It is deadly if ingested and its toxic properties can be absorbed through the skin, so the plant must never be handled without gloves. It has a long history of being used as a poison. In mid-summer, it produces dark purple-blue flowers.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Monk's-hood?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
For monk's-hood, the prime transplanting season is during late summer to early autumn (S2-S3), as these cooler, wetting periods encourage strong root formations. Choose a location that offers shade and fertile, well-drained soil. Be gentle during the transplant to avoid damaging the roots.
care_scenes

More Info on Monk's-hood Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

more
1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
more
2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
more
3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
more
4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
more
5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

more
1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
more
2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
more
3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
more
4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
more
5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

more
1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
more
2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
more
3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
more
4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

more
1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
more
2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Monk's-hood based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More About the Wilting after blooming more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Black spot
Black spot Black spot Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Aphids
Aphids Aphids Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More About the Nutrient deficiencies more
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Yellow spot
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Aphids
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Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention steps include the following:
  • Avoid buying and transplanting plants with any sign of aphids on them.
  • Keep gardens weeded and remove debris from around plants.
  • Plant a wide diversity of plants to provide food and habitat for beneficial insects that eat aphids. These insects include ladybeetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs.
  • Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that can kill beneficial insects that eat aphids.
  • Release beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings to prevent large aphids outbreaks.
  • Regularly check for aphids and remove them when they first appear. This is especially important in enclosed areas like greenhouses.
  • Apply a balanced fertilizer in the recommended amount to avoid over-fertilizing.
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Nutrient deficiencies
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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More About Monk's-hood

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
45 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Blue
Purple
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 m

Usages

Garden Use
Despite its high toxicity, monk's-hood is cultivated in gardens for its showy, spike-like inflorescences that feature blue to purple flowers. Its decorative divided leaves can serve as a backdrop for other lower-growing flowering plants. Monk's-hood is attractive to insects and birds, however, it is toxic for mammals upon both contact and ingestion. When positioning it, make sure it is well out of reach.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Monk's-hood has an affinity for areas with a balanced mix of sun and shade, although it can adapt to locations receiving full day sun. Originating from environments with dappled canopies, its health thrives with filtered light. Overexposure can lead to stress while underexposure hinders proper development.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Monk's-hood is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Monk's-hood may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Monk's-hood enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Monk's-hood thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Monk's-hood is native to temperate zones and thrives best in temperatures ranging 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). For optimal growth in shifting seasons, it's advisable to adjust environment temperature to its preference.
Regional wintering strategies
Monk's-hood has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Monk's-hood is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Monk's-hood should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Monk's-hood?
For monk's-hood, the prime transplanting season is during late summer to early autumn (S2-S3), as these cooler, wetting periods encourage strong root formations. Choose a location that offers shade and fertile, well-drained soil. Be gentle during the transplant to avoid damaging the roots.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Monk's-hood?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Monk's-hood?
The 'Sweet Spot', nestled between late summer and early fall (S2-S3), is ideal to transplant monk's-hood. This timing lets monk's-hood establish roots before winter, promoting healthy spring growth. Remember, right timing reaps a robust monk's-hood!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Monk's-hood Plants?
It's time to plant your monk's-hood saplings! Aim to space them about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This ensures they'll have plenty of room to flourish and won't compete for resources with their neighbors. Remember, good plant spacing means happy, healthy plants!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Monk's-hood Transplanting?
Your monk's-hood will thrive in well-drained, fertile soil. Before planting, mix in a base fertilizer to improve nutrient content. Something high in organic matter, like compost or manure, works great. This prep step will help your plants establish stronger roots.
Where Should You Relocate Your Monk's-hood?
For optimal growth, your monk's-hood should be planted somewhere with part to full sun exposure. However, in hotter climates, consider a location that provides part shade in the afternoon to protect them from harsh sunlight. Happy planting!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Monk's-hood?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and monk's-hood.
Gardening Trowel
Used for carefully digging around the roots of the plant and lifting it out of the soil or its original pot.
Spade or Shovel
In case of large monk's-hood plants, a spade or shovel might be necessary for moving the plant from in-ground.
Garden Fork
To gently loosen the soil when removing the monk's-hood plant from the ground.
Watering Can
To keep the plant hydrated throughout the transplant process.
Mulch
To protect the plant and help retain moisture.
Wheelbarrow
Useful for transporting the monk's-hood plant, especially if it's large and heavy.
Planting Pots or Trays
Necessary if you are starting from seedlings or small plants.
How Do You Remove Monk's-hood from the Soil?
From Ground: Firstly, water the monk's-hood plant thoroughly, which makes the soil more pliable and less prone to root damage. Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil around the plant, ensuring that you are far enough from the base so as not to damage the root system. Use a spade or shovel to dig out the plant, forming a large enough trench around it and making sure its root ball remains intact. Carefully lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the monk's-hood plant in its pot before starting. Tip the pot sideways and before gently sliding out the plant. Be careful not to pull or strain the stem of the plant. If the plant is stuck, tap the sides and bottom of the pot to loosen it. Avoid damaging the root ball while removing the plant.
From Seedling Tray: Moisten the soil before starting. With a small trowel or your fingers, dig around the edges of the monk's-hood plant's cell in the tray. Basically, you are trying to remove the entire cell's worth of soil and hopefully, the seedling root clump with it.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Monk's-hood
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new location for your monk's-hood plant by loosening the soil with a garden fork or trowel. Dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of your plant.
Step2 Placing
Position your monk's-hood plant into the hole, ensuring that it sits at the same depth as it was in its original location. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground.
Step3 Backing
Backfill the hole with soil, pressing down gently to remove any air pockets.
Step4 Watering
Water your monk's-hood plant generously after transplanting. This helps to settle the soil around the roots.
Step5 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to help retain moisture and reduce competition from weeds.
How Do You Care For Monk's-hood After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around your monk's-hood plant consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting. This helps the plant establish strong roots.
Pruning
If your monk's-hood plant shows signs of stress, such as yellow or wilting leaves, don't hesitate to trim these away. This allows the plant to focus its energy on root development.
Monitoring
Keep an eye out for any signs of disease or insect infestation, and react accordingly. Also, make sure your plant is not exposed to high winds or harsh weather conditions right after transplanting, as this can cause transplant shock.
Feeding
Wait for a few weeks until your monk's-hood plant is well established before feeding it any fertilizers, to avoid root burn.
Regular Feeding
After initial establishment, feed the plant lightly once or twice during the growing season to promote strong and healthy growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Monk's-hood Transplantation.
What is the best time to transplant monk's-hood?
The golden season to relocate monk's-hood is late spring to early summer (S2-S3). It allows the plant to establish roots before winter.
How much space should I leave between monk's-hood plants?
To ensure healthy growth, the ideal spacing between monk's-hood plants should range from 1-2 feet (30-60 cm). This prevents overcrowding and promotes ventilation.
My monk's-hood doesn't seem to be/ grow well after transplanting. What could be the issue?
Monk's-hood prefers well-draining soil. Excessive water can lead to root rot. Always check moisture levels before watering, ensuring it's neither too dry nor too wet.
Why are my monk's-hood leaves turning yellow after transplanting?
Yellowing leaves could be due to stress from transplanting or insufficient nutrients. Ensure the soil is rich. Also, minimize shock by transplanting in cooler, damp weather.
Can I transplant monk's-hood in the fall?
While it's not the ideal time, careful transplanting of monk's-hood in fall can be done. However, the plant should be well-established before the first frost.
I just transplanted monk's-hood and the leaves have started wilting, why is that?
Wilting could be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure you water monk's-hood adequately to keep it moist and in a shaded, cooler area initially.
Why is monk's-hood not blooming after being transplanted?
Non-flowering in monk's-hood might be due to it investing energy in root development post-transplant. It should show healthy growth and blooming after some time.
How much sunlight does transplanted monk's-hood need?
Monk's-hood prefers partial shade, especially in hot climates. Full sunlight can cause the plant to wilt. Ensure your location caters to this sunlight requirement.
How often should I water monk's-hood after transplanting?
While monk's-hood needs moist soil, overwatering can harm it. It's best to water when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry to the touch.
What kind of soil is best for transplanted monk's-hood plants?
Monk's-hood prefers fertile, well-drained soil. It appreciates the addition of organic matter like compost to nourish its growth, especially after a transplant.
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