About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
New Plant Care
Related Plants
How to Care for Persian Silk Tree
Albizia julibrissin, colloquially known as persian silk tree, is a deciduous plant with characteristic pink, fuzzy inflorescences. Persian silk tree is mainly cultivated for decorative purposes. Its flowers have a mild, sweet smell and are often visited by butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Symbolism
Harmony, family, joy, feminine strength
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
The best time to transplant persian silk tree is in early spring, just as new growth begins. This gives the plant ample time to settle and establish its root system. Choose a well-draining sunlit location. Remember to gently loosen the roots before planting for successful root establishment.
More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Pollination, etc.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Persian silk tree comes from the subtropical and tropical regions of Asia, particularly Iran and China. It has adapted to a variety of soil types but prefers well-drained soil. In its native environment, persian silk tree experiences hot and humid climates with average to high levels of rainfall. As a result, this plant requires regular watering during the growing season, ensuring that the soil remains consistently moist. However, it's important to avoid overwatering, as persian silk tree is susceptible to root rot.
Lighting
Full sun
The persian silk tree thrives when exposed to a generous amount of daily sunlight, maximizing its growth and health. Still, it manages to tolerate conditions where sunlight is partially obscured. The light intensity is crucial for its different growth stages. Its origin habitat had plenty of sun exposure which it has adapted to. Too much or too little exposure can impact its wellness negatively.
Temperature
-15 38 ℃
The native growth environment for persian silk tree is warm and temperate regions with temperatures ranging from 10 to 35 ℃ (50 to 95 ℉). It prefers a warm and humid climate, but it can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. During the summer months, it can withstand heat up to 35 ℃ (95 ℉), but it needs protection from hot winds. In the winter, when the temperature drops below 10 ℃ (50 ℉), providing it with a protective covering is recommended.
Transplant
20-35 feet
The best time to transplant persian silk tree is in early spring, just as new growth begins. This gives the plant ample time to settle and establish its root system. Choose a well-draining sunlit location. Remember to gently loosen the roots before planting for successful root establishment.
Pollination
Normal
The vibrant persian silk tree seduces its primary pollinators - bees and moths, with an irresistible floral attractant. Using entomophily method, these insects play a crucial part in persian silk tree's pollination mechanism as they transfer pollen while foraging. This fascinating spectacle is most prevalent in the warm charm of daylight for optimal pollination activity!
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.
1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.
1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.
1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.
1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Persian silk tree based on 10 million real cases
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
More About Persian Silk Tree
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
6 to 15 m
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Flower Color
Pink
White
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
3 to 16 m
Name story
Persian silk tree
Albizia's flowers look like thousands of strands of silk threads growing from the calyx. Since the specific epithet, julibrissin means silk flower in Persian, this genus is called a silk tree. As this plant is originated from Persia, it is called the Persian silk tree.
Mimosa tree
The leaves look similar to mimosa but it does not close up like mimosa when touched. Its leaves only close slowly at night and bow downward which looks similar to the closed-up mimosa. Hence, it is called the mimosa tree.
Usages
Artistic Value
There are poems praising Persian silk trees in China.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide.
Garden Use
Persian silk tree is good for planting on the roadside and in courtyards. This is a relatively common choice in gardens and landscapes because of its fast growth rate and visual appeal. Prized for its vase shape and spreading crown, it offers shade and beauty. It does well in ornamental parks and gardens and its companion plants include similarly blooming trees, like the Muskogee crape myrtle and the corkscrew hazel.
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. Branches ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. Stems ![trouble-image]()
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. Leaves ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Chalky, Loam
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
show more ![show-more]()
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Persian Silk Tree
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
Download Persian Silk Tree
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
Plants with Same Care Needs
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
Common lilac
Common lilac is a shrub native to the Balkan Peninsula that blooms with a fragrant blossom. It grows on rocky terrain and has a suckering habit. The blossoms are used to flavor honey, sugars, food, and other delights and farmed for its fragrant flowers in the spring. 
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Red raspberry
Red raspberry is a perennial forest shrub with elongated, thorny stems. The stems grow rapidly during their first year and bloom in their second year. The plant produces small, aggregate fruit that has a distinct aroma and a sweet-and-sour taste. Rubus idaeus cultivars are hybrids between this red raspberry and the American species R. Strigosus.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Black walnut
Black walnut is a large riparian zone tree native to North America. It is cultivated for nutritious walnuts and high-quality dark timber. Black walnut produces juglone, a compound that inhibits the growth of other plants in the black walnut tree’s proximity, so it may be undesirable near lawns and gardens. It is susceptible to a Thousand Cankers Disease.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Common boxwood
Common boxwood is a perennial plant native to Europe, Africa, and Asia. The plant's specific epithet sempervirens stands for "always green." The plant produces non-showy, creamy yellow flowers that are fragrant. The bark and leaves of the plant were once used to manufacture perfumes and extracts.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
View More Plants
Botanist in your pocket
App
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Logged in!
Botanist in your pocket
Scan QR code to download
About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
New Plant Care
How to Care for Persian Silk Tree
Albizia julibrissin, colloquially known as persian silk tree, is a deciduous plant with characteristic pink, fuzzy inflorescences. Persian silk tree is mainly cultivated for decorative purposes. Its flowers have a mild, sweet smell and are often visited by butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Symbolism
Harmony, family, joy, feminine strength
Every 1-2 weeks
Water ![Water detail]()
Full sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
The best time to transplant persian silk tree is in early spring, just as new growth begins. This gives the plant ample time to settle and establish its root system. Choose a well-draining sunlit location. Remember to gently loosen the roots before planting for successful root establishment.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.
1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.
1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.
1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.
1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Persian silk tree based on 10 million real cases
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More ![more]()
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
More About Persian Silk Tree
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
6 to 15 m
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Flower Color
Pink
White
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
3 to 16 m
Name story
Persian silk tree
Albizia's flowers look like thousands of strands of silk threads growing from the calyx. Since the specific epithet, julibrissin means silk flower in Persian, this genus is called a silk tree. As this plant is originated from Persia, it is called the Persian silk tree.
Mimosa tree
The leaves look similar to mimosa but it does not close up like mimosa when touched. Its leaves only close slowly at night and bow downward which looks similar to the closed-up mimosa. Hence, it is called the mimosa tree.
Usages
Artistic Value
There are poems praising Persian silk trees in China.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide.
Garden Use
Persian silk tree is good for planting on the roadside and in courtyards. This is a relatively common choice in gardens and landscapes because of its fast growth rate and visual appeal. Prized for its vase shape and spreading crown, it offers shade and beauty. It does well in ornamental parks and gardens and its companion plants include similarly blooming trees, like the Muskogee crape myrtle and the corkscrew hazel.
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. 
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. 
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. 
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Chalky, Loam
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Water
Persian Silk Tree Watering Instructions
Persian silk tree comes from the subtropical and tropical regions of Asia, particularly Iran and China. It has adapted to a variety of soil types but prefers well-drained soil. In its native environment, persian silk tree experiences hot and humid climates with average to high levels of rainfall. As a result, this plant requires regular watering during the growing season, ensuring that the soil remains consistently moist. However, it's important to avoid overwatering, as persian silk tree is susceptible to root rot.
When Should I Water My Persian Silk Tree?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the persian silk tree. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant flower production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Dryness
A clear sign of when persian silk tree needs water is the dryness of the soil. This can be checked by touching the soil around the plant base. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry to the touch, this means the plant most likely requires watering.
Leaf Condition
The condition of the leaves of persian silk tree can also be a reliable indicator for watering necessities. If the leaves appear wilted, lackluster, or begin to lose their vibrant color tending to fade or yellow, these are indicative of the plant being under-watered.
Pre-Flowering Stage
Persian silk tree particularly requires watering during its pre-flowering or bud formation stage. A lack of water during this critical period may result in bud drop, preventing the plant from flowering fully.
Temperature And Sunlight Exposure
Persian silk tree has a high water requirement during warm temperatures and high sunlight exposure periods. Therefore, one must ensure to observe proper watering if these conditions are persistent.
Early Watering Risks
Watering persian silk tree too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering persian silk tree too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the persian silk tree. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and flowering but also prolongs its life span and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Persian Silk Tree?
Watering Requirements
Persian silk tree, also known as Persian silk tree, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
Bottom-watering is an effective method to ensure the roots of persian silk tree get adequate moisture without over-saturating the surface. This technique involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. It prevents excess moisture on the foliage and minimizes the risk of fungal diseases.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is recommended to choose one with a narrow spout to direct the water flow directly to the base of persian silk tree. This helps to avoid wetting the foliage excessively and promotes targeted hydration at the root level.
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can be beneficial for monitoring the soil moisture levels of persian silk tree. This tool provides accurate readings and helps determine when it's time to water the plant.
Avoiding Foliage
During watering, it is important to avoid wetting the foliage of persian silk tree as much as possible. Excess moisture on the leaves can lead to fungal diseases and damage the plant.
Drying Period
Allowing the soil to partially dry out between watering sessions is recommended for persian silk tree. This prevents waterlogging and promotes healthy root growth.
Water Quality
Using distilled or filtered water can be beneficial for persian silk tree as it avoids the accumulation of salts or harmful substances found in tap water.
How Much Water Does Persian Silk Tree Really Need?
Introduction
Persian silk tree is a species of plant native to Asia. It thrives in the wild in regions with a Mediterranean climate, characterized by dry summers and wet winters. It's adapted to tolerate periods of drought followed by heavy rainfall, indicating a moderate hydration need.
Optimal Watering Quantity
Persian silk tree's root system is relatively shallow, typically extending around 1 to 2 feet deep into the soil. This suggests that a regular watering method would be suitable for this plant, ensuring that the moisture reaches the upper layers of soil where the roots are concentrated. The frequency of watering depends on several factors such as pot size, root depth, and plant size. For a mature persian silk tree plant in a medium-sized pot, an average watering volume might be around 1 to 2 liters every 7 to 10 days.
Signs of Proper Hydration
A properly hydrated persian silk tree will have green, healthy leaves that appear turgid and show no signs of wilting or drooping. The branches and stems will be firm and upright. While persian silk tree is fairly tolerant of dry conditions, signs of overwatering can include yellowing leaves, wilting or yellowing of the lower branches, and the presence of fungal diseases such as root rot. Signs of underwatering may include wilted leaves that appear dry or crispy, and the plant may not produce flowers.
Risks of Improper Watering
Overwatering persian silk tree can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases, as well as hinder nutrient uptake. It can also increase the risk of pest infestations. Underwatering can cause the plant to become weak and susceptible to stress, leading to stunted growth and reduced flowering.
Additional Advice
To ensure proper drainage and avoid waterlogging, it is recommended to use well-draining soil and pots with drainage holes. When watering, thoroughly saturate the soil until water flows out of the drainage holes, but do not let the plant sit in standing water. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent over-saturation.
How Often Should I Water Persian Silk Tree?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
Download the App
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. What Kind of Water is Best for Persian Silk Tree?
Water Type Guide for persian silk tree
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - persian silk tree prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Distilled Water: Best suited for persian silk tree as it is pure and free of any contaminants or minerals. Rainwater: A natural alternative to distilled water, but make sure it is collected in a clean container and does not contain pollutants. Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available, but be aware of potential contaminants. Filtered Water: Adequate as long as it removes harmful substances, such as chlorine, chloramine, or heavy metals.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - persian silk tree is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can cause leaf burn and overall stress to the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
High - persian silk tree is sensitive to fluoride in tap water, which can cause leaf discoloration, curling, and stunted growth.
Mineral Sensitivity
Moderate - persian silk tree can be sensitive to high levels of certain minerals in tap water, such as sodium, chlorine, or boron, which can inhibit nutrient absorption and cause leaf discoloration.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on persian silk tree. This allows the chlorine to evaporate and makes it safer for the plant. Water Filtration: Using a carbon or reverse osmosis filter can remove chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals from tap water, making it suitable for persian silk tree.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - persian silk tree generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Persian Silk Tree's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water persian silk tree in Spring?
During spring, persian silk tree experiences its active growth phase. It is essential to maintain consistent soil moisture to support healthy growth. Water regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist.
How to Water persian silk tree in Summer?
In summer, persian silk tree may require more water as it experiences increased sunlight and high temperatures. Monitor the soil moisture closely and water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry.
How to Water persian silk tree in Autumn?
During autumn, persian silk tree starts preparing for winter dormancy. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering as the plant begins to slow its growth. Water deeply, ensuring the soil is moist but not waterlogged.
How to Water persian silk tree in Winter?
In winter, persian silk tree enters its dormant period. Water sparingly as the plant requires minimal moisture during this time. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between waterings, ensuring the plant doesn't sit in wet soil.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Persian Silk Tree Watering Routine?
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can help assess persian silk tree's deeper soil moisture needs and prevent over or under-watering. This plant prefers its soil to be mostly dry before the next watering, and a meter can effectively measure this.
Watering Time
Watering persian silk tree early in the morning allows the water to penetrate the soil thoroughly before the high evaporation rates of mid-day. It also helps prevent fungal diseases by minimizing the plant's exposure to dampness.
Common Misconception
One common mistake with persian silk tree is over-watering. People often believe that this plant requires frequent watering, but it's actually quite drought-tolerant. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other issues, so it's important to allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
Signs of Thirst
When persian silk tree is in need of water, its leaves may start to droop or curl. The leaves may also turn yellow or brown. Checking the moisture level in the soil using a moisture meter or by sticking your finger into the soil can help determine if it's time to water.
Adjusting Watering in Heatwaves
During heatwaves, persian silk tree may need more frequent watering due to the hot and dry conditions. It's important to monitor the soil moisture levels closely and increase watering if necessary. Adding a layer of mulch around the base of the plant can help retain moisture and protect the roots.
Adjusting Watering in Extended Rain
When persian silk tree is experiencing extended periods of rain, it's crucial to ensure proper drainage to prevent waterlogging. Consider using well-draining soil and increasing the frequency of checking soil moisture levels to avoid over-watering.
Adjusting Watering When Stressed
If persian silk tree is showing signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, it may need extra care and attention. Check the moisture level in the soil and adjust watering accordingly. Be careful not to over-water, as this can worsen the plant's condition. Providing additional shade or reducing direct sunlight can also help alleviate stress.
Tools for Assessing Soil Moisture
In addition to using a moisture meter, gardeners can also use a soil probe or a simple screwdriver to assess the soil moisture levels of persian silk tree. Insert the probe or screwdriver into the soil and identify the depth at which it becomes moist or dry. This can provide more accurate information about the plant's watering needs.
Spray Bottle for Humidity
Persian silk tree appreciates higher humidity levels, especially during dry periods or when grown indoors. Using a spray bottle to mist the leaves can help increase humidity around the plant. Avoid misting if the plant is in direct sunlight, as it can lead to burns.
Fertilizer and Watering
When fertilizing persian silk tree, it's important to water the plant beforehand and then apply the fertilizer. This helps prevent burning or stress on the roots. After applying the fertilizer, water the plant again to ensure proper nutrient absorption.
Checking Soil Moisture Beyond Surface
To accurately assess the moisture level of persian silk tree's soil, it's important to go beyond the surface. Stick your finger or a moisture meter into the soil at least a few inches deep to determine if watering is necessary. The surface may seem dry, but deeper layers could still be adequately moist.
Watering during Dormancy
During persian silk tree's dormancy period (usually in winter), it requires less frequent watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings and reduce the amount of water given. Over-watering during this time can lead to root rot or other issues.
Water Quality
The quality of water used to water persian silk tree can also impact its health. It's best to use filtered or distilled water, as tap water may contain chemicals or minerals that can be harmful to the plant over time. If tap water is the only option, allow it to sit in an open container for 24 hours before watering to allow any chlorine to dissipate.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Persian Silk Tree
Overview of Hydroponics
Persian silk tree can be successfully grown using hydroponics, which is a method of cultivating plants in a water-based environment without soil. Hydroponics provides better control over nutrient uptake, water availability, and oxygen levels for the plant, resulting in healthier growth and increased yield.
Best Hydroponic System
For persian silk tree, the best hydroponic system is the nutrient film technique (NFT), which involves a continuous, thin film of nutrient solution flowing over the plant's roots. This allows for optimal oxygenation and nutrient absorption while avoiding waterlogging.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
The nutrient solution for persian silk tree should have a balanced composition, with optimal concentrations of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A recommended concentration range is 100-200 ppm for N, 50-100 ppm for P, and 150-200 ppm for K. The pH level of the nutrient solution should be maintained between 5.8-6.2.
Frequency of Nutrient Change
The nutrient solution for persian silk tree should be changed every 1-2 weeks to prevent nutrient imbalances and ensure consistent availability of essential elements.
Challenges in Hydroponic Cultivation
Common challenges in growing persian silk tree hydroponically include root rot, which can occur if the roots are constantly submerged in water without proper oxygenation. Another challenge is maintaining the correct balance of nutrients in the solution to avoid deficiencies or toxicities.
Light Requirements
Persian silk tree requires a minimum of 6-8 hours of sunlight per day or the equivalent in artificial light. Providing a full spectrum LED grow light with a color temperature of 5000-6500K will help meet the plant's light requirements.
Monitoring Plant Health
In a hydroponic setup, it's important to monitor persian silk tree for signs of stress or nutrient deficiencies. Check the leaves for discoloration, wilting, or stunted growth, which may indicate nutrient imbalances or inadequate oxygenation.
Adjusting Hydroponic Environment
As persian silk tree progresses through different growth stages, adjustments can be made to the hydroponic environment. For example, during the flowering stage, increase the concentration of phosphorus in the nutrient solution to promote flower development.
Air Circulation
To prevent the risk of pests and diseases, provide adequate air circulation in the growing area. Use fans or an air pump to maintain airflow around the plant and prevent stagnant conditions that favor fungal growth.
Temperature Control
Maintain a temperature range of 70-80°F (21-27°C) during the day and slightly cooler temperatures at night (65-75°F or 18-24°C) for optimal growth of persian silk tree.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Persian silk tree is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Persian silk tree is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Persian Silk Tree
Why are the leaves of my persian silk tree turning yellow and falling off?
This can be a sign of overwatering. Albizia julibrissin is relatively drought-tolerant and excessive water can lead to root rot and foliage loss. Adjust your watering frequency to allow the soil to dry out between watering. Check the soil moisture levels using a moisture meter or your finger before applying more water.
Why are the leaves of my persian silk tree wilting even though I water it regularly?
This can indicate underwatering or poor water drainage. This tree prefers well-drained soil, so ensure that your plant isn't sitting in water. If the soil is dry and the leaves are wilting, increase your watering frequency but ensure that the plant is well-drained after each watering.
How should I water my persian silk tree during the winter?
As a deciduous tree, Albizia julibrissin enters a dormant stage during the winter where it needs little water. Reduce your watering frequency significantly during this season to prevent overwatering. Monitor the plant's response and adjust watering accordingly.
Why is my persian silk tree failing to bloom despite regular watering?
While watering is vital, Persian Silk Tree also requires abundant sunlight to bloom. Another possibility could be the use of excessive nitrogen fertilizer, which encourages foliage growth over blooming. Reduce the use of high nitrogen fertilizer and ensure that your plant gets enough sunlight, along with balanced watering.
My persian silk tree looks stunted and is not growing well. Could I be watering it wrong?
Yes, improper watering can affect the growth of your Albizia julibrissin. Both overwatering and underwatering can stunt growth. The plant prefers consistent, well-drained moisture. Consider using a drip irrigation system for consistent, moderate watering while ensuring the soil isn't waterlogged.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
The persian silk tree thrives when exposed to a generous amount of daily sunlight, maximizing its growth and health. Still, it manages to tolerate conditions where sunlight is partially obscured. The light intensity is crucial for its different growth stages. Its origin habitat had plenty of sun exposure which it has adapted to. Too much or too little exposure can impact its wellness negatively.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
View more
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Persian silk tree thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your persian silk tree may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Persian silk tree enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Persian silk tree thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
The native growth environment for persian silk tree is warm and temperate regions with temperatures ranging from 10 to 35 ℃ (50 to 95 ℉). It prefers a warm and humid climate, but it can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. During the summer months, it can withstand heat up to 35 ℃ (95 ℉), but it needs protection from hot winds. In the winter, when the temperature drops below 10 ℃ (50 ℉), providing it with a protective covering is recommended.
Regional wintering strategies
Persian silk tree has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Persian silk tree is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Persian silk tree should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Persian Silk Tree?
The best time to transplant persian silk tree is in early spring, just as new growth begins. This gives the plant ample time to settle and establish its root system. Choose a well-draining sunlit location. Remember to gently loosen the roots before planting for successful root establishment.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Persian Silk Tree?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Persian Silk Tree?
With persian silk tree, the optimal season to shift is the outset of spring, often a period of rejuvenating beginnings. Transplanting at this refreshing phase endows persian silk tree with ample time to establish before summer. This relocation timing ensures stronger roots and robust growth.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Persian Silk Tree Plants?
For your lovely persian silk tree plant, make sure to space each transplant about 20-35 feet (6-10 meters) apart. This will give them enough room to grow and thrive!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Persian Silk Tree Transplanting?
Your persian silk tree will thrive in well-draining loam or sandy loam soil. Add some compost and a balanced slow-release fertilizer to enrich the soil prior to transplanting.
Where Should You Relocate Your Persian Silk Tree?
Choose a spot in your garden where your persian silk tree can enjoy full sun to light shade. Aim for at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily for a happy and healthy plant!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Persian Silk Tree?
Gloves
To protect your hands from any thorns on the persian silk tree plant and to avoid getting dirt under your nails.
Shovel or digging spade
To be used in removing the plant from its original location and preparing the new planting hole.
Hand Trowel
This smaller tool can be used for removing plants from pots without causing too much disturbance to the root system.
Gardening Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged roots or branches.
Watering Can
To water the plant during the transplanting process.
Mulch Material
To aid in moisture retention after transplanting.
Sturdy Garden Stakes and Tie Tape
To provide support for the persian silk tree plant after transplanting if required.
How Do You Remove Persian Silk Tree from the Soil?
Step1 Preparing the ground
Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and just as deep. The extra space allows the roots to spread and establish in their new home.
Step2 Checking plant health
Before placing the persian silk tree plant into the hole, inspect the plant, trim any damaged or dead roots using the pruning shears and also remove any damaged branches.
Step3 Placing the plant
Place your persian silk tree into the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil to avoid water pooling.
Step4 Backfilling
Once the plant is positioned correctly, carefully back-fill the hole ensuring not to damage the plant or its root system.
Step5 Watering
Water in well to help settle the soil around the root ball and to reduce transplant shock.
Step6 Staking
If the persian silk tree plant is large and requires support, use the garden stakes and tie tape to secure the plant, taking care not to damage the stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Persian Silk Tree
Step1 Preparing the ground
Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and just as deep. The extra space allows the roots to spread and establish in their new home.
Step2 Checking plant health
Before placing the persian silk tree plant into the hole, inspect the plant, trim any damaged or dead roots using the pruning shears and also remove any damaged branches.
Step3 Placing the plant
Place your persian silk tree into the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil to avoid water pooling.
Step4 Backfilling
Once the plant is positioned correctly, carefully back-fill the hole ensuring not to damage the plant or its root system.
Step5 Watering
Water in well to help settle the soil around the root ball and to reduce transplant shock.
Step6 Staking
If the persian silk tree plant is large and requires support, use the garden stakes and tie tape to secure the plant, taking care not to damage the stem.
How Do You Care For Persian Silk Tree After Transplanting?
Watering
Frequently water the plant in the initial weeks after transplanting, ensuring that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged.
Mulching
Applying mulch around the base of the persian silk tree plant helps to keep roots cool, retain moisture, and reduces weed competition.
Inspecting
Regularly inspect the persian silk tree plant for signs of stress or disease, especially during the initial post-transplant period.
Pruning
Prune back any dead or dying branches, as this will help to direct the plant's energy towards new growth and recovery from the transplant.
Staking
Remember to adjust or remove stakes as the persian silk tree plant grows and stabilizes.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Persian Silk Tree Transplantation.
When is the most suitable time to transplant the persian silk tree?
The prime time to transplant your persian silk tree is the dawning of spring. This season provides optimal growth conditions for your tree.
What's the appropriate spacing for persian silk tree when transplanting?
When transplanting persian silk tree, ensure that you give each tree a generous area to spread, ideally 20-35 feet (6-10 m), to support their growth and wellbeing.
My persian silk tree appears to wilt after transplanting, what might be the issue?
Your persian silk tree may be experiencing transplant shock. Ensure it's adequately watered, but not overwatered. A layer of mulch can also help retain moisture in soil.
The leaves of my transplanted persian silk tree are yellowing, why is that?
Yellowing leaves can imply a deficiency in nutrients. Regularly apply a balanced fertilizer to the soil around your persian silk tree to help tackle this issue.
Should I prune persian silk tree before transplanting?
Yes, gently prune your persian silk tree before moving it. This reduces stress on the plant and enables it to focus its energy on new root development.
How deep should the transplant hole be for persian silk tree?
The hole should be deep enough to accommodate persian silk tree's root system, typically 2-3 times the width of the root ball and just as deep.
What kind of soil is best for persian silk tree while transplanting?
Persian silk tree thrives in well-drained soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. The soil should be rich in organic matter for optimal growth.
Is there a specific technique to remove persian silk tree from its current pot for transplanting?
Yes, gently tip the pot sideways, and lightly tap it to loosen the root ball. Ensure minimal damage to the roots during this process.
How should I water the persian silk tree after transplanting?
Thoroughly wet the soil around persian silk tree right after transplanting. Water it deeply every week thereafter. Be mindful to avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.
What steps can I take to ensure the successful transplanting of persian silk tree?
Ensuring proper spacing, fertile well-drained soil, adequate watering and gentle handling during transplanting are key for the successful growth of your transplanted persian silk tree.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
