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About
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Basic Care
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FAQ

How to Care for Night-scented Lily

Night-Scented Lily (Alocasia odora) is a perennial plant whose large leaves grow to 61 cm long and resemble an elephant's ear. Fragrant, peach-colored blossoms bloom in spring and summer. Thrives in heat and humidity, so give it plenty of sun or partial shade in moist, organically rich soil.
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Toxic to Human & Pets
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

During the growing season, night-Scented Lily requires great amounts of water due to its large leaves. Watering outdoor plants depends on the weather. Generally, potted plants should be sprayed with water once a day and watered when the surface layer of the soil is slightly dry.
During the winter, it goes into a dormant or semi-dormant state, growing slowly or not at all. During this period, watering should be less frequent. Once a week will suffice. Excess moisture during this period can make the plant susceptible to root rot.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Night-Scented Lily?
There are plenty of viable ways to supply your Night-Scented Lily with water. If you grow your plant in an indoor pot, for the Night-Scented Lilys in small pots, you can bring your potted plant to your kitchen sink. Then, use the faucet to add water to the container. By holding the pot in your hands, you should easily notice when the water begins to run through the pot’s drainage holes, at which point you can stop watering. The cold temperature will hurt the plants' root system, so please don't do this during winter or in cold climates. Most of the time, watering via your faucet is permissible for the Night-Scented Lily. However, if the local tap water contains a high proportion of fluorine, chlorine or salts, you should consider using rainwater or lake water.
Also, since the Night-Scented Lily can respond well to overhead watering and watering directly into the soil, you can use a watering can, hose, or just about any tool you’d like to water it.
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What should I do if I water my Night-Scented Lily too much or too little?
If you discover that you have underwatered your Night-Scented Lily, your first step towards remedying the situation is to give your plant some water. Water deeply until excess water runs from the container’s drainage hole, or if you grow outside, water until the soil has become entirely moist. If you find your Night-Scented Lily is receiving too much water, begin by reducing your watering schedule. You also want to address the soil and container your Night-Scented Lily grows in. If either the soil or the container makes it difficult for water to drain efficiently, your plant will likely become overwatered again. Resolve the issue by moving your plant to looser soils and/or a container with bigger drainage holes or a more porous material. Also check the location of the plant. If the plant is in places like a corner, then it is recommended to move it to a window or around a door to enhance ventilation. Making sure the plants are in a well-ventilated location can reduce the occurrence of overwatering to some extent.
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How often should I water my Night-Scented Lily?
The Night-Scented Lily is not a species that requires consistent soil moisture. Instead, it is better to allow this plant’s soil to become dry between waterings. If you are like the many gardeners who grow Night-Scented Lilys in containers, you can judge whether or not it is time to add water by how dry the soil within the container is. For instance, if about top half of the soil in your container has become dry, it is time to add water. You can feel it by inserting your fingers or sticks into the soil or with soil moisture meter. For those who grow the Night-Scented Lily outdoors, you can plan to do your watering about once every other week, provided it has not rained recently.
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How much water does my Night-Scented Lily need?
After waiting for the first several layers of soil surrounding your Night-Scented Lily’s root to become dry(top half of the soil), it is time to add enough water to make them moist again. The amount of water it takes to achieve that goal depends on if you use a container, how large that container is, and how large your plant itself is. For a small Night-Scented Lily growing in a small to a medium-sized container, one to two cups may be enough to dampen the soil sufficiently. As you would expect, the volume of water you supply should increase for a larger plant. The best way to make sure your plant has received enough water is to stick your finger or a trowel into the soil and feel whether it is entirely moist. Alternatively, you can water until you see excess water draining from the holes at the bottom of your container.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Night-Scented Lily enough?
Overwatering and underwatering are both bad for the health of your Night-Scented Lily. These two issues also manifest themselves in subtly different ways when they occur. Night-Scented Lily that receives too little water may begin to develop yellow leaves. Underwatering may also cause the leaf margins to become brown and brittle. By contrast, Night-Scented Lily that gets overwatered will often show yellow and brown marks on its leaves at the same time. Overwatering can also lead to diseases like root rot, some of which may also be visible on your plant. However, if you know the signs of overwatering and underwatering, you stand a good chance of correcting both issues.
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How should I water my Night-Scented Lily through the seasons?
During spring and fall, your watering schedule for the Night-Scented Lily will remain relatively the same, which will involve watering this plant about once every week. During summer, you may find that the hot weather causes your plant to need more water than usual, especially if it grows where there is a considerable amount of daily light exposure. In the winter, if it's hard to find some warm places for you plant, your Night-Scented Lily will enter a dormant growth phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. At this time, you may get by without watering your plant at all. If you do choose to water during winter, you should not do so more often than once every two to three weeks.
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How should I water my Night-Scented Lily at different growth stages?
After planting a new, young Night-Scented Lily or after transplanting an older Night-Scented Lily, you will probably need to give this plant more water than usual. Young plants often need consistent soil moisture during the early stages of their growth to help them adapt to their new growing locations. Transplants also need more water for a brief time to overcome transplant shock. In either case, you may need to water multiple times per week until your plant has exhibited continuous healthy growth. In most situations, your water should be moderate and should never be significant enough to cause overwatering.
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What's the difference between watering Night-Scented Lily indoors and outdoors?
There are a few reasons why you may need to water an indoor Night-Scented Lily more often than one that grows in the ground outdoors. First, indoor growing settings tend to be drier than outdoor ones, often due to the effect of air conditioning units. While thw size of the pot and the soil determines the warer accumulating ability. Additionally, when your plant grows indoors, it will rely on you entirely for its water By contrast, Night-Scented Lily that grows outside can receive water from rain. If you are in an area with high rainfall, you may not have to give it extra watering. When there is not enough rain, you should water additionally to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Demand for fertilization varies between Alocasia species. Some are not very demanding, while others, especially large species, are heavy feeders. Base fertilizer should be added to the soil before planting. Add a bit of liquid fertilizer with each watering during the growing season to keep it healthy and growing vigorously. Fertilization can be reduced gradually as the plants enter dormancy, or stopped entirely after the temperature drops below 16 ℃.

Fertilizer

Night-Scented Lily is a lovely foliage plant that grows throughout hardiness zones 10, 11, and 12. However, many gardeners choose to grow this plant indoors to enliven their favorite indoor living spaces. While many plants can impress with their blooms, the Night-Scented Lily will catch your eye with its unique leaf shapes and textures. However, if you want your Night-Scented Lily to live its best life, you need to know how to take care of it. Part of your care routine should include proper fertilization. Below are a few answers to the most important questions about fertilizing a Night-Scented Lily.
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the Night-Scented Lily is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them. Night-Scented Lily needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a Night-Scented Lily a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
A Night-Scented Lily will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall. Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your Night-Scented Lily about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the Night-Scented Lily will have far less active growth.
The fertilizer for a Night-Scented Lily has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Night-Scented Lily while you supply water.
The fertilizer that you purchase for your Night-Scented Lily will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a Night-Scented Lily, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots. If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
Since it is advisable to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your Night-Scented Lily, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration. Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a Night-Scented Lily. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your Night-Scented Lily regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your Night-Scented Lily has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a Night-Scented Lily is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Night-Scented Lily?
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the Night-Scented Lily is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them.
Night-Scented Lily needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a Night-Scented Lily a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Night-Scented Lily?
A Night-Scented Lily will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall.
Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your Night-Scented Lily about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the Night-Scented Lily will have far less active growth.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Night-Scented Lily?
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your Night-Scented Lily regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your Night-Scented Lily has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a Night-Scented Lily is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Night-Scented Lily need?
The fertilizer for a Night-Scented Lily has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Night-Scented Lily while you supply water.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Night-Scented Lily?
The fertilizer that you purchase for your Night-Scented Lily will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a Night-Scented Lily, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots.
If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Night-Scented Lily too much?
Since it is advisable to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your Night-Scented Lily, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration.
Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a Night-Scented Lily. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Night-Scented Lily can grow in filtered sunlight to shady conditions. Direct sunlight can burn leaves badly. On the other hand, if it is placed in an area with insufficient light for a long time, its stem will become slender and the leaves soft. It is best to plant night-Scented Lily in partial shade.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Night-Scented Lily need?
Night-Scented Lily typically needs full, indirect sunlight in order to thrive indoors. This means that the plant should be exposed to bright sunlight that doesn’t hit it directly from a window or another light source, like a grow light. You can easily protect it from direct sunlight by placing a sheer curtain between your Night-Scented Lily and the window, or by placing it behind a part of the window with a dark screen.
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How can I avoid damaging new Night-Scented Lily with sunlight?
If this is your first time bringing your Night-Scented Lily home, then it might be a good idea to try to ease it into the sunlight it needs, rather than place it in bright, indirect light right away. Over the course of two weeks or so, you can slowly move your plant into the sunlight to avoid shock or burning of the leaves from sudden intense light exposure. By easing it into the light, your Night-Scented Lily is much more likely to adapt to your home environment well.
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How can I tell if Night-Scented Lily is getting too much light?
Night-Scented Lily is one that can easily sunburn with too much sunlight. In the wild, these plants only receive mild, dappled light, filtered down from tree canopies. While they need more light than that to grow in our homes, too much can certainly cause issues. If your Night-Scented Lily is getting too much light, you’ll notice that the foliage begins to look bleached or washed out, the tips of leaves may turn yellow or brown and crispy, and it may even grow too quickly to support itself.
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What should I do if my Night-Scented Lily gets light damage?
Sunburn for plants is much less severe than sunburn for people. While it may look unsightly, crispy, burnt leaves can be removed if they’re too far damaged to recover, or over half of the leaf is damaged. However, you can also try trimming back the leaves just to remove any sunburn damage in an effort to save them, if there’s not too much discoloration. Move your Night-Scented Lily away from its light source to avoid future light damage.
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Does Night-Scented Lily need different light during different growth stages?
While some plants may be ready to face the sweltering sun straight out of the ground, Night-Scented Lily needs some time to build itself up enough to tolerate bright light. Propagated cuttings should receive only moderate indirect light, while new leaves during the growing season should be shielded a bit as well. The tender new leaves are more prone to sunburn than any other part of the plant.
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How can I tell if Night-Scented Lily isn’t getting enough light?
Fortunately, plants can communicate in their own language to convey whether they have adequate sunlight or not. Like most plants, your Night-Scented Lily will tell you if it isn’t getting enough sunlight. The most visible sign is when your plant becomes particularly dark, or there is no new growth on the plant from one season to the next. You’ll also notice that leaves that do grow in may remain smaller than others, since there isn’t enough light to photosynthesize to support large new leaves.
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How much sunlight should Night-Scented Lily get each day?
Depending on how bright the sunlight is that your Night-Scented Lily gets, the number of hours in a day may vary. If you have your plant in bright, indirect light, then there’s no need to try to restrict or increase the amount of time your plant gets this light each day. However, if light is less bright or further away from your Night-Scented Lily, then you can try to aim for at least eight hours of full light per day.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Remove dry, damaged, or yellow leaves to keep the plant in good shape. Prune with a serrated knife, and cut each leaf off at its base. Removing withered leaves will prevent the plant from wasting nutrients, transporting them directly to the healthy, young parts. If pests or diseases start developing, infected leaves should be pruned as soon as the symptoms are noticed.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
How can I prune my Night-Scented Lily?
Pruning your Night-Scented Lily is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Night-Scented Lily simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Night-Scented Lily is growing.
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What should I do after pruning my Night-Scented Lily?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Night-Scented Lily a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Night-Scented Lily immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
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How can I prune my Night-Scented Lily during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Night-Scented Lily on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Night-Scented Lily, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Night-Scented Lily is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Night-Scented Lily cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
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When should I prune my Night-Scented Lily through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Night-Scented Lily depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Night-Scented Lily is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Night-Scented Lily is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Night-Scented Lily is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Night-Scented Lily grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Night-Scented Lily is growing.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Night-Scented Lily thrives in warm, humid environments all year round, and grows best at 20 to 30 ℃. The lowest temperature it can tolerate is 8 ℃. If left in a low-temperature condition for a long time, it will grow poorly or even die. Night-Scented Lily shouldn't be grown outdoors in areas that often have temperatures below 10 ℃ during winter.
As it originates from tropical and subtropical climates, night-Scented Lily thrives in humid environments. Arid conditions are detrimental to its growth. During the growing season, it's very important to keep moisture at favorable levels. The soil must be moist at all times and relative air humidity shouldn't be below 60%. Spraying the leaves regularly during the growing season can encourage growth and increase humidity in dry conditions.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Night-Scented Lily?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Night-Scented Lily require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Night-Scented Lily doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Night-Scented Lily need different temperatures for different seasons?
Night-Scented Lily does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Night-Scented Lily healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Night-Scented Lily?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Night-Scented Lily is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Night-Scented Lily is not that picky when it comes to soil type, but it grows best in loose and well-drained soils. If planted outdoors, it can grow successfully in all except water-retaining soils. Even though it thrives in humid environments, soggy soil will make it more susceptible to various fungal diseases. If potted, it's best to use peat moss or sandy soil mixed with a small amount of organic fertilizer.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Night-Scented Lily can be grown from seeds or ramets. Propagating from seed is a very demanding, slow process, so the most common method is ramets. They can be acquired from a healthy mother plant 2-3 years old in the spring.
The process starts by delicately removing the plant roots and rhizomes from the ground. When the plant is pulled out from the soil, gently rinse its root system with water using a garden hose. Rinse until the individual ramets become visible; then they can be easily pulled apart from the mother plant. It is important to separate them very carefully with a sharp knife, so the roots suffer as little damage as possible.
plant the separated ramets into individual pots filled with a mixture of a potting mix, a lot of sand, and some perlite. The substrate must drain well. Water the ramets after planting and keep the temperature of the soil between 18 to 25 ℃. After it grows into a new plant, it's better to repot it every year in spring to ensure better growth.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

The optimal season for transplanting night-Scented Lily is between spring to early summer, a period with mild temperature, conducive for root establishment. It appreciates a shady location with moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, avoid root damage for the plant's overall health. Remember, consistency ensures a thriving night-Scented Lily!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Explore 6 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Overwinter, etc.
Water
Twice per week
Lighting
Partial sun
For healthy growth, night-Scented Lily leans towards moderate sun exposure, able to endure robust light conditions as well. Originating from habitats with blending light conditions, it thrives best in those conditions. Excessive sun could stress it, leading to leaf burn, while less light may stifle its growth.
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Temperature
5 41 ℃
Night-Scented Lily is native to a tropical region, thriving in temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, keep in a warm location and avoid temperatures below 68 °F (20 ℃).
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Transplant
4-6 feet
The optimal season for transplanting night-Scented Lily is between spring to early summer, a period with mild temperature, conducive for root establishment. It appreciates a shady location with moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, avoid root damage for the plant's overall health. Remember, consistency ensures a thriving night-Scented Lily!
Learn More
Overwinter
20 ℃
Night-Scented Lily hails from subtropical Asia's warm, humid climate. Naturally, it slows down during cooler months, an adaptation that mimics its native winter. Gardeners keeping night-Scented Lily in colder climates should consider overwintering indoors to protect from frost, ensuring adequate humidity and light exposure. Always seek a warmer, bright spot for night-Scented Lily during winter and regulate watering, allowing the soil to dry out between drinks.
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Toxic
Slightly Toxic to Humans
The night-Scented Lily is a poisonous plant that may be fatal if ingested. It is also known to cause moderate skin irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. All parts of the plant are poisonous, including the plant's milky sap, but the dangerous toxins are mostly concentrated in leaves and stems. The plant contains calcium oxalates, which can cause a variety of health issues, such as the formation of kidney stones. When ingested, the calcium oxalates in the night-Scented Lily cause difficulty speaking, as well as the severe burning, numbness, and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, while some people report gastrointestinal upset (diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, stomach cramps), as well. Skin contact with the sap of this plant may also cause mild to severe skin irritation manifested in redness, rashes, itching, blisters, burning sensation, and pain. People with health issues such as rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones, and hyperacidity should be especially cautious with this plant.
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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1
At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Night-Scented Lily based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Yellow spot
plant poor
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Slightly Toxic to Humans
Slightly Toxic to Humans
The night-Scented Lily is a poisonous plant that may be fatal if ingested. It is also known to cause moderate skin irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. All parts of the plant are poisonous, including the plant's milky sap, but the dangerous toxins are mostly concentrated in leaves and stems. The plant contains calcium oxalates, which can cause a variety of health issues, such as the formation of kidney stones. When ingested, the calcium oxalates in the night-Scented Lily cause difficulty speaking, as well as the severe burning, numbness, and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, while some people report gastrointestinal upset (diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, stomach cramps), as well. Skin contact with the sap of this plant may also cause mild to severe skin irritation manifested in redness, rashes, itching, blisters, burning sensation, and pain. People with health issues such as rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones, and hyperacidity should be especially cautious with this plant.
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Night-Scented Lily (genus Alocasia odora) can be moderately toxic to dogs. All parts of these plants contain sap filled with calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause both topical and gastrointestinal irritation. Symptoms of ingestion include a redness or irritation around the mouth and throat, pawing at the mouth, loss of appetite, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, or diarrhea. Topical exposure to calcium oxalate may cause redness or itchiness of the skin. More severe symptoms are possible but rare, as its extreme distastefulness almost always prevents dogs from eating too much of this plant.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Night-scented Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
2 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Size
Flower Size
13 to 30 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 m

Usages

Garden Use
Night-Scented Lily works well as a potted plant, which can decorate hot, humid outdoor patios and city gardens. It also adds ornamentation as an accent plant when used in the shady beds and borders of tropical or Mediterranean gardens. Its lovely foliage lasts year-round, and showy blooms and berries add interest for much of the year.
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Common Problems

Can night-Scented Lily be grown in water?

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The following steps describe how to transfer your night-Scented Lily plant to a hydroponic system.
  1. Dig out the night-Scented Lily from the soil and carefully clean the roots. Be careful not to injure the rhizomes or the root system. Cut off any rotten roots.
  2. Disinfect the roots with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution and rinse them with water.
  3. If the plant has few roots, it should be kept in shade for a couple of days to dry. After the roots have dried, the plant can be introduced to the hydroponic system. It should start growing new roots in the next couple of days.
  4. The water level should be at about 2/3 of the container. Change the water once every 2-3 days in the beginning.
  5. The rhizomes and roots of night-Scented Lily are prone to disease, so it is very important to keep the container and water clean. Clean the stains off the roots and cut off any rotten tissue when you change the water.
  6. In the initial stage of planting, only use water. Later, add a nutrient solution. The solution should be replaced once a month.

The roots of my night-Scented Lily have started to rot. What should I do?

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First of all, dig out the roots and rhizomes from the soil and cut off all the rotten parts. Let the healthy root tissues dry for at least 24 hours. Disinfect the rhizomes with 0.1% potassium permanganate for 10 minutes and then insert them into fresh soil mixed with clean, fine sand (1:1). After two days, water a little so the plant doesn't dry.
If the rhizome does not rot completely, new leaves will grow soon after replanting. Similarly, if your hydroponically cultivated night-Scented Lily has root rot, clean and disinfect, but let it grow new roots in clean soil before being put back into the water container. If the plant is directly returned to the hydroponic system, the roots may start to rot again.
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Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily
Night-Scented Lily

How to Care for Night-scented Lily

Night-Scented Lily (Alocasia odora) is a perennial plant whose large leaves grow to 61 cm long and resemble an elephant's ear. Fragrant, peach-colored blossoms bloom in spring and summer. Thrives in heat and humidity, so give it plenty of sun or partial shade in moist, organically rich soil.
Water
Twice per week
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Human & Pets
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
During the growing season, night-Scented Lily requires great amounts of water due to its large leaves. Watering outdoor plants depends on the weather. Generally, potted plants should be sprayed with water once a day and watered when the surface layer of the soil is slightly dry.
During the winter, it goes into a dormant or semi-dormant state, growing slowly or not at all. During this period, watering should be less frequent. Once a week will suffice. Excess moisture during this period can make the plant susceptible to root rot.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Demand for fertilization varies between Alocasia species. Some are not very demanding, while others, especially large species, are heavy feeders. Base fertilizer should be added to the soil before planting. Add a bit of liquid fertilizer with each watering during the growing season to keep it healthy and growing vigorously. Fertilization can be reduced gradually as the plants enter dormancy, or stopped entirely after the temperature drops below 16 ℃.
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Fertilizer

Night-Scented Lily is a lovely foliage plant that grows throughout hardiness zones 10, 11, and 12. However, many gardeners choose to grow this plant indoors to enliven their favorite indoor living spaces. While many plants can impress with their blooms, the Night-Scented Lily will catch your eye with its unique leaf shapes and textures. However, if you want your Night-Scented Lily to live its best life, you need to know how to take care of it. Part of your care routine should include proper fertilization. Below are a few answers to the most important questions about fertilizing a Night-Scented Lily.
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the Night-Scented Lily is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them. Night-Scented Lily needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a Night-Scented Lily a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
A Night-Scented Lily will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall. Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your Night-Scented Lily about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the Night-Scented Lily will have far less active growth.
The fertilizer for a Night-Scented Lily has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Night-Scented Lily while you supply water.
The fertilizer that you purchase for your Night-Scented Lily will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a Night-Scented Lily, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots. If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
Since it is advisable to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your Night-Scented Lily, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration. Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a Night-Scented Lily. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your Night-Scented Lily regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your Night-Scented Lily has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your Night-Scented Lily incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a Night-Scented Lily is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Night-Scented Lily can grow in filtered sunlight to shady conditions. Direct sunlight can burn leaves badly. On the other hand, if it is placed in an area with insufficient light for a long time, its stem will become slender and the leaves soft. It is best to plant night-Scented Lily in partial shade.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Remove dry, damaged, or yellow leaves to keep the plant in good shape. Prune with a serrated knife, and cut each leaf off at its base. Removing withered leaves will prevent the plant from wasting nutrients, transporting them directly to the healthy, young parts. If pests or diseases start developing, infected leaves should be pruned as soon as the symptoms are noticed.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Night-Scented Lily thrives in warm, humid environments all year round, and grows best at 20 to 30 ℃. The lowest temperature it can tolerate is 8 ℃. If left in a low-temperature condition for a long time, it will grow poorly or even die. Night-Scented Lily shouldn't be grown outdoors in areas that often have temperatures below 10 ℃ during winter.
As it originates from tropical and subtropical climates, night-Scented Lily thrives in humid environments. Arid conditions are detrimental to its growth. During the growing season, it's very important to keep moisture at favorable levels. The soil must be moist at all times and relative air humidity shouldn't be below 60%. Spraying the leaves regularly during the growing season can encourage growth and increase humidity in dry conditions.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Night-Scented Lily is not that picky when it comes to soil type, but it grows best in loose and well-drained soils. If planted outdoors, it can grow successfully in all except water-retaining soils. Even though it thrives in humid environments, soggy soil will make it more susceptible to various fungal diseases. If potted, it's best to use peat moss or sandy soil mixed with a small amount of organic fertilizer.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Night-Scented Lily can be grown from seeds or ramets. Propagating from seed is a very demanding, slow process, so the most common method is ramets. They can be acquired from a healthy mother plant 2-3 years old in the spring.
The process starts by delicately removing the plant roots and rhizomes from the ground. When the plant is pulled out from the soil, gently rinse its root system with water using a garden hose. Rinse until the individual ramets become visible; then they can be easily pulled apart from the mother plant. It is important to separate them very carefully with a sharp knife, so the roots suffer as little damage as possible.
plant the separated ramets into individual pots filled with a mixture of a potting mix, a lot of sand, and some perlite. The substrate must drain well. Water the ramets after planting and keep the temperature of the soil between 18 to 25 ℃. After it grows into a new plant, it's better to repot it every year in spring to ensure better growth.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The optimal season for transplanting night-Scented Lily is between spring to early summer, a period with mild temperature, conducive for root establishment. It appreciates a shady location with moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, avoid root damage for the plant's overall health. Remember, consistency ensures a thriving night-Scented Lily!
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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1
Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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2
Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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3
Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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4
Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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3
Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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1
Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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2
Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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3
You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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1
At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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2
The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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3
It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Night-Scented Lily based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Yellow spot
Yellow spot  Yellow spot  Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Yellow spot
plant poor
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Slightly Toxic to Humans
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
The night-Scented Lily is a poisonous plant that may be fatal if ingested. It is also known to cause moderate skin irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. All parts of the plant are poisonous, including the plant's milky sap, but the dangerous toxins are mostly concentrated in leaves and stems. The plant contains calcium oxalates, which can cause a variety of health issues, such as the formation of kidney stones. When ingested, the calcium oxalates in the night-Scented Lily cause difficulty speaking, as well as the severe burning, numbness, and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, while some people report gastrointestinal upset (diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, stomach cramps), as well. Skin contact with the sap of this plant may also cause mild to severe skin irritation manifested in redness, rashes, itching, blisters, burning sensation, and pain. People with health issues such as rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones, and hyperacidity should be especially cautious with this plant.
More Info About Toxicity
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Night-scented Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
2 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Size
Flower Size
13 to 30 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 m

Usages

Garden Use
Night-Scented Lily works well as a potted plant, which can decorate hot, humid outdoor patios and city gardens. It also adds ornamentation as an accent plant when used in the shady beds and borders of tropical or Mediterranean gardens. Its lovely foliage lasts year-round, and showy blooms and berries add interest for much of the year.
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Common Problems

Can night-Scented Lily be grown in water?

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The following steps describe how to transfer your night-Scented Lily plant to a hydroponic system.
  1. Dig out the night-Scented Lily from the soil and carefully clean the roots. Be careful not to injure the rhizomes or the root system. Cut off any rotten roots.
  2. Disinfect the roots with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution and rinse them with water.
  3. If the plant has few roots, it should be kept in shade for a couple of days to dry. After the roots have dried, the plant can be introduced to the hydroponic system. It should start growing new roots in the next couple of days.
  4. The water level should be at about 2/3 of the container. Change the water once every 2-3 days in the beginning.
  5. The rhizomes and roots of night-Scented Lily are prone to disease, so it is very important to keep the container and water clean. Clean the stains off the roots and cut off any rotten tissue when you change the water.
  6. In the initial stage of planting, only use water. Later, add a nutrient solution. The solution should be replaced once a month.

The roots of my night-Scented Lily have started to rot. What should I do?

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First of all, dig out the roots and rhizomes from the soil and cut off all the rotten parts. Let the healthy root tissues dry for at least 24 hours. Disinfect the rhizomes with 0.1% potassium permanganate for 10 minutes and then insert them into fresh soil mixed with clean, fine sand (1:1). After two days, water a little so the plant doesn't dry.
If the rhizome does not rot completely, new leaves will grow soon after replanting. Similarly, if your hydroponically cultivated night-Scented Lily has root rot, clean and disinfect, but let it grow new roots in clean soil before being put back into the water container. If the plant is directly returned to the hydroponic system, the roots may start to rot again.
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Water
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How Often Should I Water Night-scented Lily?
Twice per week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Night-Scented Lily is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Night-Scented Lily is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
For healthy growth, night-Scented Lily leans towards moderate sun exposure, able to endure robust light conditions as well. Originating from habitats with blending light conditions, it thrives best in those conditions. Excessive sun could stress it, leading to leaf burn, while less light may stifle its growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Night-Scented Lily is a versatile plant that thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be easily noticeable, inadequate light conditions can affect their growth indoors.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Night-Scented Lily may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Night-Scented Lily enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Night-Scented Lily thrives with partial sun exposure but is more prone to sunburn. The intense sunlight during summer can cause leaf sunburn, making it important to provide adequate shade and protection.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Night-Scented Lily is native to a tropical region, thriving in temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, keep in a warm location and avoid temperatures below 68 °F (20 ℃).
Regional wintering strategies
Night-Scented Lily is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Night-Scented Lily indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Night-Scented Lily prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Night-Scented Lily should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Night-scented Lily?
The optimal season for transplanting night-Scented Lily is between spring to early summer, a period with mild temperature, conducive for root establishment. It appreciates a shady location with moist, well-drained soil. When transplanting, avoid root damage for the plant's overall health. Remember, consistency ensures a thriving night-Scented Lily!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Night-scented Lily?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Night-scented Lily?
Late summer to mid-autumn is the preferred period for transplanting night-Scented Lily. This season ensures ground warmth, promoting robust root growth. By transplanting during this period, night-Scented Lily gets extra growing time before winter dormancy. Therefore, for a thriving, fragrant night-Scented Lily, consider this advantageous timing.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Night-scented Lily Plants?
When preparing to transplant night-Scented Lily, remember to give it plenty of room to grow. Ideally, these plants should be spaced about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) apart. It'll allow night-Scented Lily to spread its leaves and thrive!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Night-scented Lily Transplanting?
For night-Scented Lily, the soil you use matters a lot. Choose a well-draining soil mix and enrich it with a base fertilizer to provide essential nutrients. This will help your night-Scented Lily to develop a strong root system, ensuring its good health.
Where Should You Relocate Your Night-scented Lily?
When choosing the perfect spot for your night-Scented Lily, keep in mind it loves partial shade. It thrives with indirect sunlight and prefers a well-sheltered spot. Don't worry, your night-Scented Lily will reward you with its lovely scent even without full sun!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Night-scented Lily?
Gardening Gloves
Essential for protecting your hands from sharp or prickly objects and dirt while handling night-Scented Lily, a plant that can be quite large and cumbersome.
Shovel or Spade
This will be used to dig out your night-Scented Lily carefully without damaging its root system from the ground or pot.
Wheelbarrow or Container
This is needed for transporting night-Scented Lily from its original location to its new location safely.
Garden Hand Trowel
This small tool will be useful for adjusting the plant or soil during the final placement of night-Scented Lily.
Watering Can
To water your night-Scented Lily plant after transplanting it to its new location, which aids in establishing it in its new environment.
How Do You Remove Night-scented Lily from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation of transplantation site

Based on the previous suggestions, prepare a hole twice as wide and just as deep as night-Scented Lily's root ball in well-drained soil. This gives the roots a space to develop in.

Step2 Transplanting

Lift night-Scented Lily carefully and place it in the center of the hole. The top of the plant's root ball should be level with or slightly above the surface of the soil.

Step3 Backfilling

Backfill the hole with soil, firming the soil around the base of night-Scented Lily as you go. However, avoid overly compacting the soil as this could hinder root growth.

Step4 Watering

Thoroughly water the plant right after planting to help settle the soil and start night-Scented Lily off on the right path in its new home.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Night-scented Lily
Step1 Preparation of transplantation site
Based on the previous suggestions, prepare a hole twice as wide and just as deep as night-Scented Lily's root ball in well-drained soil. This gives the roots a space to develop in.
Step2 Transplanting
Lift night-Scented Lily carefully and place it in the center of the hole. The top of the plant's root ball should be level with or slightly above the surface of the soil.
Step3 Backfilling
Backfill the hole with soil, firming the soil around the base of night-Scented Lily as you go. However, avoid overly compacting the soil as this could hinder root growth.
Step4 Watering
Thoroughly water the plant right after planting to help settle the soil and start night-Scented Lily off on the right path in its new home.
How Do You Care For Night-scented Lily After Transplanting?
Regular Monitoring
Ensure that night-Scented Lily is standing upright in its new location. It’s common for transplanted plants to show signs of shock such as wilting or leaf drop. Be patient, and maintain regular care routines, and it should recover with time.
Careful Watering
Be cautious not to overwater night-Scented Lily after transplantation. Too much water can lead to root rot. Similarly, under watering can stress the plant. The soil should be kept slightly moist at all times.
Transplant Shock Prevention
It is a good practice to reduce exposure to intense sunlight or heat for a week or two after transplantation. This can prevent 'transplant shock', a state of stress that most plants experience after transplanting which can slow their growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Night-scented Lily Transplantation.
What's the ideal time to transplant night-Scented Lily?
For best results, transplant night-Scented Lily between late spring and early fall (S2-S4). This helps the plant get rooted before winter.
How much space does night-Scented Lily require when transplanting?
Night-Scented Lily needs plenty of space to grow well. When transplanting, it's best to leave 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) between each plant.
How deep should I plant night-Scented Lily during transplant?
You should plant night-Scented Lily as deep as the root ball. This will provide enough room for the roots to spread, ensuring the plant's stability.
What should I do if night-Scented Lily doesn't thrive after transplanting?
If night-Scented Lily doesn't thrive after transplant, check for sufficient water, light, and nutrients. Adjust these factors as needed for the plant to recover.
How often should I water night-Scented Lily after transplanting?
Water night-Scented Lily thoroughly immediately after transplanting, then about once per week. Keep the soil moist, but not overly waterlogged.
Can night-Scented Lily be transplanted during the bloom time?
Transplanting night-Scented Lily during bloom time can be stressful to the plant. It's better to transplant during the mentioned season (S2-S4) for optimal growth.
What type of soil is best for transplanting night-Scented Lily?
Night-Scented Lily prefers well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Avoid clayey or sandy soil types which can limit the plant's growth.
Is there any specific fertilizing needs for night-Scented Lily post-transplant?
After transplanting, it's smart to use a water-soluble, balanced fertilizer every two weeks to support the plant's growth and health.
Should I prune night-Scented Lily after transplanting?
Pruning isn't necessary right after transplanting night-Scented Lily. Wait until it's well established in the new location before you start shaping or managing its size.
How should I handle night-Scented Lily while transplanting?
Handle night-Scented Lily with care during transplant, avoid damaging its roots. Gently loosen the root ball and place it in the new location without compacting it.
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Toxic
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Summarization
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Human
AllParts
Toxic parts
Swallowed
Effect methods
Is Night-scented Lily toxic to human?
The night-Scented Lily is a poisonous plant that may be fatal if ingested. It is also known to cause moderate skin irritation when it comes into contact with the skin. All parts of the plant are poisonous, including the plant's milky sap, but the dangerous toxins are mostly concentrated in leaves and stems. The plant contains calcium oxalates, which can cause a variety of health issues, such as the formation of kidney stones. When ingested, the calcium oxalates in the night-Scented Lily cause difficulty speaking, as well as the severe burning, numbness, and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and lips, while some people report gastrointestinal upset (diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, stomach cramps), as well. Skin contact with the sap of this plant may also cause mild to severe skin irritation manifested in redness, rashes, itching, blisters, burning sensation, and pain. People with health issues such as rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones, and hyperacidity should be especially cautious with this plant.
Is Night-scented Lily toxic to dog?
Night-Scented Lily (genus Alocasia odora) can be moderately toxic to dogs. All parts of these plants contain sap filled with calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause both topical and gastrointestinal irritation. Symptoms of ingestion include a redness or irritation around the mouth and throat, pawing at the mouth, loss of appetite, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, or diarrhea. Topical exposure to calcium oxalate may cause redness or itchiness of the skin. More severe symptoms are possible but rare, as its extreme distastefulness almost always prevents dogs from eating too much of this plant.
Is Night-scented Lily toxic to cat?
The leaves, stems, and roots of the night-Scented Lily contain chemical compounds that are moderately to severely harmful to cats, and veterinary attention may be required after contact with this plant. These chemicals, called insoluble calcium oxalates, can cause reactions ranging from irritation to kidney failure in most severe cases. The most common symptoms after contact with the sap of this plant include the swollen mouth, lips, and tongue; difficulty eating, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, drooling, foaming, and seizures. Immediate medical attention is strongly advised.
How to identify Night-scented Lily
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
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