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Basic Care
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How to Care for Peruvian Lily

Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria aurea) is a tuberous perennial with stunning orchid-like flowers, most commonly cultivated as an ornamental. Flowers are usually yellow to orange, spotted or striped. They are often visited by bees, butterflies and other pollinators. A number of varieties have been selected over the years to create greater diversity of flower colors.
symbolism

Symbolism

Friendship, devotion
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Toxic to Humans
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily requires constant watering, especially during hot summers. Provide at least 2.5 cm of water weekly, although this will differ from climate to climate, while also being influenced by soil drainage. A good practice is to wait until the top 5 cm of soil gets dry and then water. If the plant is placed in full sun or in outdoor containers, this might equate to 2-3 times a week. Try to water only in the mornings, and take care not to overwater, as damp soil attracts root rot.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Peruvian lily?
When watering the Peruvian lily, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Peruvian lily comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Peruvian lily too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Peruvian lily, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Peruvian lily, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Peruvian lily have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Peruvian lily. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Peruvian lily grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Peruvian lily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Peruvian lily?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Peruvian lily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Peruvian lily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Peruvian lily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Peruvian lily need?
When it comes time to water your Peruvian lily, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Peruvian lily at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Peruvian lily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Peruvian lily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Peruvian lily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Peruvian lily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Peruvian lily more water at this time.
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How should I water my Peruvian lily through the seasons?
The Peruvian lily will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Peruvian lily will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Peruvian lily indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Peruvian lily indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Peruvian lily to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Peruvian lily very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily loves rich soil and will greatly benefit from additional fertilizing. Add a well-balanced slow-releasing fertilizer with an NPK ratio 6-6-6 to your soil at the start of the spring growing period. The regular stream of nutrition that the fertilizer will provide will keep your peruvian lily in maximum bloom. Additional organics, such as compost or manure, will also be welcomed by the plant.
Mulching the peruvian lily is a good idea too. This will provide additional slow-release nutrition as it breaks down, while also helping to protect from temperature fluctuations. Bark chips or pine needles are a great choice of mulch.

Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Peruvian lily is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Peruvian lily will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Peruvian lily to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Peruvian lily may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Peruvian lily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Peruvian lily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Peruvian lily are relatively low. At times, a Peruvian lily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Peruvian lily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Peruvian lily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Peruvian lily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Peruvian lily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Peruvian lily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Peruvian lily.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Peruvian lily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Peruvian lily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Peruvian lily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Peruvian lily.
The most common way to fertilize a Peruvian lily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Peruvian lily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Peruvian lily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Peruvian lily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Peruvian lily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Peruvian lily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Peruvian lily?
Fertilization is important to the Peruvian lily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Peruvian lily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Peruvian lily are relatively low.
At times, a Peruvian lily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Peruvian lily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Peruvian lily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Peruvian lily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Peruvian lily?
The ideal time to fertilize a Peruvian lily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Peruvian lily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Peruvian lily.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Peruvian lily?
You should not fertilize your Peruvian lily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Peruvian lily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Peruvian lily need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Peruvian lily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Peruvian lily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Peruvian lily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Peruvian lily.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Peruvian lily?
The most common way to fertilize a Peruvian lily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Peruvian lily too much?
As you care for your Peruvian lily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Peruvian lily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Peruvian lily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily is native to mountainous regions, so grows well in sunlight. It can be grown in full sun but will benefit from partial shade in the afternoons in especially warm climates. Be aware that plants grown outside in containers will be more exposed to the sun, which will cause their soil to dry out faster.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Peruvian lily need to grow?
Peruvian lily requires about 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive. However, it also needs some shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sun damage. Morning sunlight is ideal for Peruvian lily, but it can also tolerate some afternoon sun if the temperature is not too hot. To provide the perfect balance of sunlight, try planting Peruvian lily in an area that gets partial sun, such as under a tree or on the east side of a building.
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What will happen if Peruvian lily doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If Peruvian lily is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves may turn yellow, dry out, or even burn. You may also notice that the plant wilts or becomes stunted. To prevent sun damage, make sure to give Peruvian lily some shade during the hottest parts of the day. You can use a shade cloth or plant Peruvian lily near taller plants that can provide some natural shade.
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What will happen if Peruvian lily gets too much sunlight?
If Peruvian lily doesn't get enough sunlight, it may grow tall and lanky, with sparse foliage. The leaves may also turn yellow or pale green, indicating that the plant is not producing enough chlorophyll due to lack of sunlight. To remedy this, try moving Peruvian lily to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby foliage to allow more light to reach the plant.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Peruvian lily?

Once properly settled in your garden or pot, the peruvian lily will require little care. Regular removal of dead or wilting leaves will ensure it reaches its aesthetic maximum. Since this is a plant that can spread quite aggressively, remove flowers once they are done blooming. This prevents seed production, not only helping the plant to conserve energy, but also saving you from dealing with an invasion.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Peruvian lily?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Peruvian lily to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Peruvian lily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Peruvian lily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Peruvian lily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Peruvian lily?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Peruvian lily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Peruvian lily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Peruvian lily requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Peruvian lily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Peruvian lily?
Peruvian lily doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Peruvian lily?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Peruvian lily based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Peruvian lily, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily is moderately hardy. It is best suited to USDA hardiness zones 8-10, with some varieties able to tolerate zone 7. However, the plant will still need extra winter protection for the first 2 years after planting. In colder regions, the plant should be stored inside during the winter. The peruvian lily can handle temperatures between 18 to 27 ℃. If temperatures exceed 32 ℃, the plant may start to yield flowerless branches.
The peruvian lily needs plenty of water, especially during high summer temperatures. On average, try to give your plant 2.5 cm of water a week.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Peruvian lily?
The best temperature for Peruvian lily depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Peruvian lily has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Peruvian lily may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Peruvian lily will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Peruvian lily. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Peruvian lily to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Peruvian lily
If this is the first year of your Peruvian lily outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Peruvian lily, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Peruvian lily inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Peruvian lily in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Peruvian lily should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Peruvian lily from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Peruvian lily from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Peruvian lily in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Peruvian lily is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Peruvian lily to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Peruvian lily
During the cold winter months, Peruvian lily needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Peruvian lily, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Peruvian lily. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Peruvian lily will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily likes well-drained, organically rich soil, which can be achieved by amending your soil with some organic compost. This has a few benefits - it will improve soil nutrition as well as water drainage, while providing extra protection in the winter. The peruvian lily grows best in slightly acidic soil that has a pH ranging between 5.5-6.5.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Peruvian lily?

The peruvian lily does best when grown from seedlings or bulbs, which are widely available in garden stores and nurseries. Place bulbs in organically rich and slightly acidic soil with good drainage, into a hole that is three times the depth of the bulb. This is a plant that needs space, so plant bulbs 30 cm apart.
If your garden experiences extremely hot summers, plant bulbs in a location where they will have some afternoon shade. Planting is best done in the spring, after soil temperatures have risen to about 16 ℃. If you live in a warmer climate, fall planting works well too. After planting, water the bulbs generously and keep the soil moist until sprouting.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Peruvian lily?

The ideal season for transplanting peruvian lily is mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these periods offer cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture. Peruvian lily thrives in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplanting to encourage healthy growth.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Peruvian lily?

Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Peruvian Lily Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Peruvian lily comes from the mountainous regions of Chile and Peru in South America. In its native habitat, it is often found growing in cool, moist areas with moderate rainfall. This plant's natural environment indicates its preference for consistent moisture, so it is important to water peruvian lily regularly. However, caution should be exercised to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot. A well-draining soil and regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist are ideal for peruvian lily's watering needs.
Watering Techniques
Lighting
Partial sun
The peruvian lily generally thrives in areas with moderate sunlight exposure and can endure more intense sun exposure. Coming from an environment with dappled sun, it adapts well to varied light intensities. However, inadequate light can impede growth while too much can potentially scorch the leaves.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 41 ℃
Thriving in its native environment of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃), peruvian lily appreciates a warm climate year round. In cooler seasons, consider temperature adjustments to emulate this range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The ideal season for transplanting peruvian lily is mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these periods offer cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture. Peruvian lily thrives in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplanting to encourage healthy growth.
Transplant Techniques
Toxic
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Peruvian lily is a toxic plant that can harm humans if it's ingested or touched. Symptoms are usually mild. All parts of the plant, including the sap, are toxic, and they cause symptoms such as swelling, redness, and rash on the skin if touched. Ingestion causes symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, and nausea. As the plant can be grown as an ornamental in gardens, it might be within the reach of children. Young kids may touch or eat the plants while unaware of their toxicity. It's best to wear gloves when repotting or pruning the plant to avoid touching the sap.
Toxic Details
Feng shui direction
South
Peruvian lily is considered generally favorable for enhancing positive energy in one's environment. Its compatibility with the South-facing direction, associated with the Fire Element, stems from its vibrant colors which are said to attract wealth and harmonize relationships. However, different practitioners may have varying interpretations of this plant's compatibility.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

The peruvian lily is not tolerant to frost and harsh temperatures, so needs to be moved indoors in the winter. If this isn't possible, protect the plant by placing an organic mulch around it. Cut back on watering in the winter months too.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of winter hibernating bulbs start their growing season in the early spring.

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1
It is time to divide bulbs in the garden and replant them.
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2
Check container plants to see if the roots are growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, repot the plant and divide the bulbs.
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3
Water the plant when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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4
Fertilizer with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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Ensure container plants are receiving several hours of sunlight during the day to encourage growth and blooming.

Even though the plant is often forced to bloom in the spring, the plant’s normal flowering time is in the early summer.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, watering when the top layer is beginning to dry out.
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Mulching around the plant will help keep the root system cool, and an application of all-purpose plant food provides necessary nutrients.
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Move a container plant into a partially shady area to protect it from the hot, afternoon sun.

Your plant will enter dormancy during the cooler fall.

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Prune away the spent flower heads, and then allow the plant to dry up before cutting it back to the bulb.
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Greatly cut back watering during this season, allowing the soil to dry out more to avoid overwatering or harming the dormant plant.

The plant will continue its dormancy throughout the winter.

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Avoid giving it much water, which can wake up this plant too early.
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As this plant is vulnerable to the cold, either protect the roots and bulb through covering the beds with mulch, or moving the bulb to a warmer indoor pot or garden bed to overwinter.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Peruvian lily based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
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care_toxicity

Peruvian Lily and Their Toxicity

Slightly Toxic to Humans
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Peruvian lily is a toxic plant that can harm humans if it's ingested or touched. Symptoms are usually mild. All parts of the plant, including the sap, are toxic, and they cause symptoms such as swelling, redness, and rash on the skin if touched. Ingestion causes symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, and nausea. As the plant can be grown as an ornamental in gardens, it might be within the reach of children. Young kids may touch or eat the plants while unaware of their toxicity. It's best to wear gloves when repotting or pruning the plant to avoid touching the sap.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Peruvian Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
30 to 60 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 120 cm

Name story

Peruvian lily
It is the kind of plant that is overflowed with vitality energy in which its flowers can last for a long time. Typically, its flowers are symmetrical laterally, consisting of three sepals and three striped petals. Its flower pattern reminds people of the micro version of lilies. As it is originated from the Peruvian mountains, it is often called Peruvian lily.

Usages

Garden Use
Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria aurea) is a hardy lily with bright showy flowers that bloom from early to mid-summer. This plant attracts butterflies and makes an excellent accent plant in groups of three or more. Peruvian lily makes a great addition to beds and borders, wall borders, and cottage and informal gardens, especially in bright combinations with Iris or Shasta Daisy. It is also a popular cut flower.
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Common Problems

My peruvian lily is not blooming enough. Why is this happening?

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This might just be an issue of overcrowding - this is a plant that enjoys lots of space. plant bulbs at least 30 cm apart.

There are yellow leaves on my peruvian lily . What am I doing wrong?

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Check soil pH levels and pay attention to how much sunlight your plant is receiving. In both cases, the roots won't be able to function properly, which affects the whole plant. The peruvian lily needs at least 6 hours of sunlight each day, as well as slightly acidic soil.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
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more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
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more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
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more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full shade
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Peruvian Lily
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
label
main-image
Peruvian Lily
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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About
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Toxicity
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Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily

How to Care for Peruvian Lily

Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria aurea) is a tuberous perennial with stunning orchid-like flowers, most commonly cultivated as an ornamental. Flowers are usually yellow to orange, spotted or striped. They are often visited by bees, butterflies and other pollinators. A number of varieties have been selected over the years to create greater diversity of flower colors.
symbolism

Symbolism

Friendship, devotion
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Humans
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The peruvian lily requires constant watering, especially during hot summers. Provide at least 2.5 cm of water weekly, although this will differ from climate to climate, while also being influenced by soil drainage. A good practice is to wait until the top 5 cm of soil gets dry and then water. If the plant is placed in full sun or in outdoor containers, this might equate to 2-3 times a week. Try to water only in the mornings, and take care not to overwater, as damp soil attracts root rot.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
The peruvian lily loves rich soil and will greatly benefit from additional fertilizing. Add a well-balanced slow-releasing fertilizer with an NPK ratio 6-6-6 to your soil at the start of the spring growing period. The regular stream of nutrition that the fertilizer will provide will keep your peruvian lily in maximum bloom. Additional organics, such as compost or manure, will also be welcomed by the plant.
Mulching the peruvian lily is a good idea too. This will provide additional slow-release nutrition as it breaks down, while also helping to protect from temperature fluctuations. Bark chips or pine needles are a great choice of mulch.
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Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Peruvian lily is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Peruvian lily will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Peruvian lily to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Peruvian lily may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Peruvian lily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Peruvian lily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Peruvian lily are relatively low. At times, a Peruvian lily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Peruvian lily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Peruvian lily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Peruvian lily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Peruvian lily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Peruvian lily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Peruvian lily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Peruvian lily.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Peruvian lily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Peruvian lily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Peruvian lily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Peruvian lily.
The most common way to fertilize a Peruvian lily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Peruvian lily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Peruvian lily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Peruvian lily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Peruvian lily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Peruvian lily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The peruvian lily is native to mountainous regions, so grows well in sunlight. It can be grown in full sun but will benefit from partial shade in the afternoons in especially warm climates. Be aware that plants grown outside in containers will be more exposed to the sun, which will cause their soil to dry out faster.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Once properly settled in your garden or pot, the peruvian lily will require little care. Regular removal of dead or wilting leaves will ensure it reaches its aesthetic maximum. Since this is a plant that can spread quite aggressively, remove flowers once they are done blooming. This prevents seed production, not only helping the plant to conserve energy, but also saving you from dealing with an invasion.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The peruvian lily is moderately hardy. It is best suited to USDA hardiness zones 8-10, with some varieties able to tolerate zone 7. However, the plant will still need extra winter protection for the first 2 years after planting. In colder regions, the plant should be stored inside during the winter. The peruvian lily can handle temperatures between 18 to 27 ℃. If temperatures exceed 32 ℃, the plant may start to yield flowerless branches.
The peruvian lily needs plenty of water, especially during high summer temperatures. On average, try to give your plant 2.5 cm of water a week.
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Peruvian lily
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Peruvian lily
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The peruvian lily likes well-drained, organically rich soil, which can be achieved by amending your soil with some organic compost. This has a few benefits - it will improve soil nutrition as well as water drainage, while providing extra protection in the winter. The peruvian lily grows best in slightly acidic soil that has a pH ranging between 5.5-6.5.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The peruvian lily does best when grown from seedlings or bulbs, which are widely available in garden stores and nurseries. Place bulbs in organically rich and slightly acidic soil with good drainage, into a hole that is three times the depth of the bulb. This is a plant that needs space, so plant bulbs 30 cm apart.
If your garden experiences extremely hot summers, plant bulbs in a location where they will have some afternoon shade. Planting is best done in the spring, after soil temperatures have risen to about 16 ℃. If you live in a warmer climate, fall planting works well too. After planting, water the bulbs generously and keep the soil moist until sprouting.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Peruvian lily?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The ideal season for transplanting peruvian lily is mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these periods offer cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture. Peruvian lily thrives in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplanting to encourage healthy growth.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Peruvian lily?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

The peruvian lily is not tolerant to frost and harsh temperatures, so needs to be moved indoors in the winter. If this isn't possible, protect the plant by placing an organic mulch around it. Cut back on watering in the winter months too.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of winter hibernating bulbs start their growing season in the early spring.

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It is time to divide bulbs in the garden and replant them.
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Check container plants to see if the roots are growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, repot the plant and divide the bulbs.
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3
Water the plant when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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Fertilizer with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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Ensure container plants are receiving several hours of sunlight during the day to encourage growth and blooming.

Even though the plant is often forced to bloom in the spring, the plant’s normal flowering time is in the early summer.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, watering when the top layer is beginning to dry out.
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Mulching around the plant will help keep the root system cool, and an application of all-purpose plant food provides necessary nutrients.
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Move a container plant into a partially shady area to protect it from the hot, afternoon sun.

Your plant will enter dormancy during the cooler fall.

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Prune away the spent flower heads, and then allow the plant to dry up before cutting it back to the bulb.
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Greatly cut back watering during this season, allowing the soil to dry out more to avoid overwatering or harming the dormant plant.

The plant will continue its dormancy throughout the winter.

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Avoid giving it much water, which can wake up this plant too early.
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As this plant is vulnerable to the cold, either protect the roots and bulb through covering the beds with mulch, or moving the bulb to a warmer indoor pot or garden bed to overwinter.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Peruvian lily based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Peruvian Lily and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Peruvian lily is a toxic plant that can harm humans if it's ingested or touched. Symptoms are usually mild. All parts of the plant, including the sap, are toxic, and they cause symptoms such as swelling, redness, and rash on the skin if touched. Ingestion causes symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, and nausea. As the plant can be grown as an ornamental in gardens, it might be within the reach of children. Young kids may touch or eat the plants while unaware of their toxicity. It's best to wear gloves when repotting or pruning the plant to avoid touching the sap.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Peruvian Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
30 to 60 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 120 cm

Name story

Peruvian lily
It is the kind of plant that is overflowed with vitality energy in which its flowers can last for a long time. Typically, its flowers are symmetrical laterally, consisting of three sepals and three striped petals. Its flower pattern reminds people of the micro version of lilies. As it is originated from the Peruvian mountains, it is often called Peruvian lily.

Usages

Garden Use
Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria aurea) is a hardy lily with bright showy flowers that bloom from early to mid-summer. This plant attracts butterflies and makes an excellent accent plant in groups of three or more. Peruvian lily makes a great addition to beds and borders, wall borders, and cottage and informal gardens, especially in bright combinations with Iris or Shasta Daisy. It is also a popular cut flower.
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Common Problems

My peruvian lily is not blooming enough. Why is this happening?

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This might just be an issue of overcrowding - this is a plant that enjoys lots of space. plant bulbs at least 30 cm apart.

There are yellow leaves on my peruvian lily . What am I doing wrong?

more more
Check soil pH levels and pay attention to how much sunlight your plant is receiving. In both cases, the roots won't be able to function properly, which affects the whole plant. The peruvian lily needs at least 6 hours of sunlight each day, as well as slightly acidic soil.
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Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
more
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
more
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Partial sun, Full shade
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
more
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Peruvian Lily Watering Instructions
Peruvian lily comes from the mountainous regions of Chile and Peru in South America. In its native habitat, it is often found growing in cool, moist areas with moderate rainfall. This plant's natural environment indicates its preference for consistent moisture, so it is important to water peruvian lily regularly. However, caution should be exercised to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot. A well-draining soil and regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist are ideal for peruvian lily's watering needs.
When Should I Water My Peruvian Lily?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the peruvian lily. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant flower production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Moisture: Dryness
A clear sign of when peruvian lily needs water is the dryness of the soil. This can be checked by touching the soil around the plant base. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry to the touch, this means the plant most likely requires watering.
Leaf Condition: Wilted or Lackluster Leaves
The condition of the leaves of peruvian lily can also be a reliable indicator for watering necessities. If the leaves appear wilted, lackluster, or begin to lose their vibrant color, tending to fade or yellow, these are indicative of the plant being under-watered.
Pre-Flowering Stage
Peruvian lily particularly requires watering during its pre-flowering or bud formation stage. A lack of water during this critical period may result in bud drop, preventing the plant from flowering fully.
Temperature and Sunlight Exposure
Peruvian lily has a high water requirement during warm temperatures and high sunlight exposure periods. Therefore, one must ensure to observe proper watering if these conditions are persistent.
Early Watering Risks
Watering peruvian lily too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering peruvian lily too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stun the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the peruvian lily. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and flowering but also prolongs its lifespan and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Peruvian Lily?
Watering Requirements
Peruvian lily, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
For peruvian lily, it is best to water the plant thoroughly, ensuring that the water reaches the root zone. This can be done by using the bottom-watering technique. Place the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allow the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. This method helps prevent overwatering and keeps the foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can for peruvian lily, choose one with a narrow spout to direct the water flow directly to the base of the plant. This helps avoid wetting the foliage excessively and promotes targeted hydration at the root level.
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can be beneficial for watering peruvian lily. This tool allows you to accurately gauge the moisture level in the soil and determine when watering is necessary. Insert the moisture meter probe into the soil near the root zone to get an accurate reading.
Avoid Wetting Foliage
When watering peruvian lily, it is important to avoid wetting the foliage. Excess moisture on the leaves can lead to fungal issues and damage the plant. Direct the water towards the base of the plant or use a bottom-watering method to keep the foliage dry.
Avoid Overwatering
Overwatering can be detrimental to peruvian lily. Allow the top inch of the soil to dry out before watering again. This will prevent waterlogged soil and root rot. Pay attention to signs of overwatering, such as yellowing or wilting leaves, and adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
How Much Water Does Peruvian Lily Really Need?
Introduction
Peruvian lily is a species of plant native to South America, specifically Peru. It thrives in the wild in a variety of habitats such as mountainous regions and grasslands. It's adapted for conditions with moderate soil moisture indicating a moderate hydration need.
Optimal Watering Quantity
Peruvian lily's root system is relatively shallow, typically extending about 8-10 inches into the soil. This suggests that a moderate watering method would be suitable for this plant, ensuring that the water reaches the root zone without saturating the soil. The frequency of watering depends on factors such as pot size, ambient temperature, and plant size. On average, peruvian lily should be watered when the top 1-2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. The optimal watering volume for peruvian lily would be around 1-2 cups (250-500 ml) per watering session, ensuring thorough saturation of the root zone.
Signs of Proper Hydration
Properly hydrated peruvian lily will have leaves that are fleshy and upright, without wilting or yellowing. The plant will exhibit healthy growth with a compact and bushy appearance. During flowering season, it will produce abundant blooms. Signs of overwatering peruvian lily include yellowing leaves, wilting, and the presence of mold or fungus. Signs of underwatering include drooping leaves and slower growth.
Risks of Improper Watering
Overwatering peruvian lily can lead to root rot and the development of fungal diseases. This can negatively impact the plant's overall health and vitality. Underwatering can cause the plant to become stressed, leading to stunted growth and reduced blooming.
Additional Advice
It's important to note that peruvian lily prefers well-draining soil to prevent waterlogged conditions. Using a pot with drainage holes or adding materials like perlite to the soil mix can help improve the drainage. Additionally, peruvian lily benefits from occasional misting to increase humidity levels, especially in dry environments.
How Often Should I Water Peruvian Lily?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Peruvian Lily?
Water Type Guide for peruvian lily
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - peruvian lily prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Distilled Water: Best suited for peruvian lily as it is pure and free of contaminants. Rainwater: A natural and balanced option for peruvian lily. Filtered Water: May be used as an alternative, as long as it removes harmful elements. Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available, but it may contain chlorine and minerals that can affect peruvian lily.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - peruvian lily is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can harm the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Low - peruvian lily can tolerate low levels of fluoride, but excessive amounts can be harmful.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on peruvian lily to allow chlorine to evaporate. Filtration: Filtering tap water can remove chlorine and harmful minerals, making it safe for peruvian lily.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - peruvian lily prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Peruvian Lily's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water peruvian lily in Spring?
During spring, peruvian lily experiences its active growth phase. It is essential to maintain consistent soil moisture to support healthy growth. Water regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist.
How to Water peruvian lily in Summer?
In summer, peruvian lily may enter a period of reduced growth and dormancy. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to partially dry out between waterings. Avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.
How to Water peruvian lily in Autumn?
During autumn, peruvian lily prepares for winter dormancy. Gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plant enters its dormant phase. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
How to Water peruvian lily in Winter?
In winter, peruvian lily experiences its dormant period. Water sparingly as the plant requires minimal moisture during this time. Allow the topsoil to dry out between waterings.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Peruvian Lily Watering Routine?
Watering Tools:
Using a watering can with a narrow spout or a hose with a gentle spray attachment can help ensure that water is delivered directly to the base of the plant and reduces the risk of over-watering or damaging the delicate foliage.
Morning Watering:
Watering peruvian lily in the morning allows the water to be absorbed by the plant during the day, preventing excess moisture sitting on the leaves and reducing the risk of fungal diseases. It also gives the plant enough time to dry before cooler nighttime temperatures.
Monitoring Soil Moisture:
To assess the moisture level beyond the surface, gently push your finger into the soil to a depth of about 2 inches. If it feels dry, it's time to water. If it still feels slightly moist, wait a day or two before watering again.
Avoid Over-Watering:
Over-watering can lead to root rot and other problems. Make sure to provide adequate drainage for peruvian lily by using well-draining soil and pots with drainage holes. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again.
Signs of Thirst:
When peruvian lily is thirsty, its leaves may start to droop and curl. The top layer of the soil may also appear very dry. These are indications that the plant needs water, but make sure to check the soil moisture at the root level before watering.
Signs of Over-Watering:
Over-watered peruvian lily may exhibit yellowing leaves, wilting despite wet soil, or brown and mushy roots. If you notice these signs, reduce watering frequency and improve drainage to avoid further damage.
Watering During Heatwaves:
During heatwaves, peruvian lily may require more frequent watering due to increased evaporation and higher water needs. Water early in the morning or in the evening when temperatures are cooler to minimize moisture loss.
Watering During Extended Rainy Periods:
During extended periods of rain, it's crucial to ensure that the soil does not become waterlogged. If the soil feels excessively saturated, provide additional drainage or consider moving potted peruvian lily under cover to prevent root rot.
Watering for Stressed Plants:
If peruvian lily is stressed, such as after repotting or experiencing pest or disease issues, it may benefit from slight increases in watering frequency or the use of an organic plant tonic to support recovery.
Mulching for Moisture Retention:
Applying a layer of organic mulch, like wood chips or straw, around the base of peruvian lily can help retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and reduce weed growth. However, avoid placing mulch directly against the stems to prevent rotting.
Adjusting Watering for Different Seasons:
During the active growing season, peruvian lily may require more frequent watering to support vigorous growth. In contrast, during dormancy or winter months, watering can be reduced to prevent excessive moisture in cooler temperatures.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Peruvian Lily?
Overview of Hydroponics
Peruvian lily can be successfully grown using hydroponics, which is a method of growing plants without soil. Hydroponics allows for precise control over the plant's nutrient intake and provides a water-based environment that can promote faster growth and higher yields.
Recommended Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) is a suitable hydroponic system for growing peruvian lily. This system involves a shallow, continuously flowing film of nutrient-rich water that provides a constant supply of nutrients to the plant's roots. NFT ensures efficient nutrient absorption and oxygenation without the risk of waterlogging.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
Peruvian lily thrives best with a balanced nutrient solution. The recommended nutrient concentrations are as follows: Nitrogen (N): 150-200 ppm, Phosphorus (P): 50-70 ppm, Potassium (K): 200-250 ppm. The pH level should be maintained between 5.8 and 6.2 for optimal nutrient uptake. It's essential to monitor and adjust the nutrient solution as needed to avoid nutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
Common Challenges and Solutions
One common challenge when growing peruvian lily hydroponically is the occurrence of root rot. To prevent this, ensure proper oxygenation of the roots by maintaining a well-aerated nutrient solution and avoiding overwatering. Another challenge can be nutrient imbalances, which can lead to stunted growth or nutrient deficiencies. Regular monitoring and adjustment of the nutrient solution based on plant growth and visual cues can help maintain the balance. Additionally, peruvian lily requires sufficient light for healthy growth. Provide at least 12-16 hours of light per day using appropriate grow lights to avoid stretching or leggy growth.
Monitoring peruvian lily's Health
Monitor peruvian lily's health by observing its foliage and root system. Signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, can indicate nutrient deficiencies or imbalances. Root health is crucial, so regularly inspect and maintain a healthy root system to prevent root rot. Leaf discoloration or spotting may indicate nutrient deficiencies, which can be addressed by adjusting the nutrient solution.
Adjusting the Hydroponic Environment
As peruvian lily progresses through different growth stages, it may require adjustments to the hydroponic environment. During the vegetative stage, ensure adequate nitrogen supply to encourage lush foliage growth. As it enters the flowering stage, adjust the nutrient solution to provide a higher phosphorus and potassium ratio to support flower development. Additionally, monitor and adjust the lighting intensity and duration as needed during different growth stages to provide optimal light exposure.
Nutrient Solution
Peruvian lily prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth.
Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) is recommended for growing peruvian lily hydroponically.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Peruvian lily is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Peruvian lily is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Peruvian Lily
Why are the leaves of my peruvian lily wilting even though I keep it well-watered?
Wilting leaves, despite regular watering, may indicate overwatering. Peruvian lily, like many plants, needs a balance of hydration —too much water can cause root rot, hindering the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients. To solve this, reduce your watering frequency and make sure your plant's soil is well-draining to prevent water-logging.
Why are the leaves of my peruvian lily turning yellow?
Yellow leaves can be a symptom of overwatering for a peruvian lily. If the plant receives too much water, it can lead to root rot, which prevents the roots from taking up necessary nutrients. Try reducing your watering schedule, and ensure that the peruvian lily is not sitting in water. Wait until the top few inches of soil are dry before watering again.
Why is my peruvian lily losing leaves?
Leaf drop in peruvian lily might also be a sign of overwatering. If the plant is too wet, it might start shedding leaves as a defensive mechanism. Check the moisture level of your soil before watering. Your peruvian lily prefers a slightly dry condition, so water thoroughly but not too frequently, allowing the top inch of soil between waterings to dry.
What do I do if the flowers of my peruvian lily are dropping prematurely?
Premature dropping of flowers in peruvian lily indicates underwatering. Peruvian lily require ample water especially during the blooming period. Increase your watering frequency, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged. Adjustable watering during different growth phases helps the plant bloom healthily.
Why does my peruvian lily appear stunted and fail to bloom?
Inadequate watering can cause stunted growth and lack of bloom in peruvian lily. Make sure you are providing enough, but not too much, water. A good indicator is the top layer of the soil - it should get dry between watering sessions. Also, ensure the plant gets indirect light and the right amount of fertilizer, as these factors also impact growth and flowering.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The peruvian lily generally thrives in areas with moderate sunlight exposure and can endure more intense sun exposure. Coming from an environment with dappled sun, it adapts well to varied light intensities. However, inadequate light can impede growth while too much can potentially scorch the leaves.
Preferred
Tolerable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Peruvian lily is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your peruvian lily may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Peruvian lily enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Peruvian lily thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Thriving in its native environment of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃), peruvian lily appreciates a warm climate year round. In cooler seasons, consider temperature adjustments to emulate this range.
Regional wintering strategies
Peruvian lily has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Peruvian lily is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Peruvian lily should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Peruvian Lily?
The ideal season for transplanting peruvian lily is mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these periods offer cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture. Peruvian lily thrives in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplanting to encourage healthy growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Peruvian Lily?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Peruvian Lily?
The best period for transplanting peruvian lily would be mid to late spring, or mid to late fall. This allows the plant to establish its roots before extreme temperatures hit, ensuring a healthy growth. Happy planting!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Peruvian Lily Plants?
To give your peruvian lily enough room to grow, space them 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart during transplanting. This will ensure they have enough space to spread out and thrive.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Peruvian Lily Transplanting?
For optimal growth, prepare well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0-7.0. Incorporate a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10), following the package instructions to ensure a nutrient-rich base for your peruvian lily.
Where Should You Relocate Your Peruvian Lily?
Choose a location that receives full sunlight to partial shade, as peruvian lily enjoys 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. An area with morning sunlight and afternoon shade is ideal, especially in hotter climates, to protect your peruvian lily from scorching sun.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Peruvian Lily?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Trowel or Shovel
To dig holes in the ground for transplanting the peruvian lily.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the peruvian lily both before and after transplanting.
Gardening Pruner or Scissors
To trim the roots and leaves, if necessary.
How Do You Remove Peruvian Lily from the Soil?
- From Ground: First, water the peruvian lily plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
- From Pot: Before transplanting, water the peruvian lily thoroughly to make the removal process easier. Gently tilt the pot on its side and carefully slide the plant out, trying not to disturb the root ball. If the plant is root-bound, gently loosen the roots to promote better growth after transplanting.
- From Seedling Tray: Water the peruvian lily seedlings well prior to transplanting. Using a gardening pruner or small trowel, gently lift the seedling from the tray, being careful not to damage the roots. Hold the seedling by the leaves or root ball to avoid damaging the stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Peruvian Lily
Step1 Plant Preparation
Prune any damaged or unhealthy roots and leaves from the peruvian lily prior to transplanting. This helps to ensure a healthier plant after the transplant.
Step2 Digging a Hole
Using a trowel or shovel, dig a hole in the ground at the prepared site, approximately twice the width and depth of the current root ball of the peruvian lily.
Step3 Setting the Plant
Place the peruvian lily in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Fill in any gaps around the plant with soil and gently firm it down to remove air pockets.
Step4 Watering
Thoroughly water the peruvian lily immediately after transplanting to help settle the soil and ensure good contact between the roots and the soil.
Step5 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the peruvian lily to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, keeping the plant healthy and thriving.
How Do You Care For Peruvian Lily After Transplanting?
Watering
Ensure a consistent watering schedule in the weeks following transplanting to help establish strong roots. Check the soil moisture and avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.
Pruning/Tipping
As the peruvian lily grows, it may be necessary to prune the plant to maintain its shape and encourage branching. Pinch or tip the plant at the appropriate time of the year to encourage fuller growth and more flowers.
Pest and Disease Control
Regularly inspect the peruvian lily for signs of pests or diseases. Address any infestations or infections promptly with appropriate treatments to protect the health of your plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Peruvian Lily Transplantation.
When's the ideal time to transplant peruvian lily?
The best time to transplant peruvian lily is mid to late spring, or mid to late fall, ensuring optimal growth.
How far apart should I space peruvian lily during transplanting?
When transplanting peruvian lily, make sure to space them 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart for the best results.
What's the proper planting depth for peruvian lily?
Plant peruvian lily at a depth of 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) to provide sufficient support and moisture retention.
What type of soil is best for transplanting peruvian lily?
Peruvian lily thrives in well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. Amend with compost if needed.
Do I need to water peruvian lily immediately after transplanting?
Yes, water peruvian lily thoroughly right after transplanting to help the roots settle and establish healthy growth.
How much sunlight does peruvian lily require after transplanting?
After transplanting, peruvian lily needs full sun to partial shade for optimal growth and flower production.
Should I fertilize peruvian lily during transplanting?
Applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer during transplanting can promote healthy growth in peruvian lily.
My transplanted peruvian lily isn't blooming. Why?
Bloom issues in peruvian lily may result from insufficient sunlight, poor soil, or irregular watering. Ensure optimal conditions.
Can I transplant peruvian lily during the blooming period?
It's best to transplant peruvian lily before or after the blooming period to avoid stress and ensure healthy growth.
Are there any special care tips after transplanting peruvian lily?
Keep the soil moist, provide sufficient sunlight, and protect peruvian lily from harsh winds for best growth after transplanting.
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Toxic
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Summarization
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Human
AllParts
Toxic parts
Swallowed
Effect methods
Is Peruvian Lily toxic to human?
Peruvian lily is a toxic plant that can harm humans if it's ingested or touched. Symptoms are usually mild. All parts of the plant, including the sap, are toxic, and they cause symptoms such as swelling, redness, and rash on the skin if touched. Ingestion causes symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, and nausea. As the plant can be grown as an ornamental in gardens, it might be within the reach of children. Young kids may touch or eat the plants while unaware of their toxicity. It's best to wear gloves when repotting or pruning the plant to avoid touching the sap.
How to identify Peruvian Lily
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
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