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How to Care for Common Columbine

The common columbine is a tall, flowering plant, typically with a long stem and light purple flowers. The Latin specific name for the plant, "vulgaris," means "common," and it comes from the fact that the plants spread easily and grow in many places around Europe. Ancient Romans considered the common columbine to be sacred for the goddess, Venus.
symbolism

Symbolism

Faithless love, a cheating man, wisdom, knowledge, piety
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
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Partial sun
Toxic to Humans
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Common columbine
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care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Common columbine?

Common columbine prefers a slightly moist but well-drained growing environment, so it can be watered once a week or watered until the soil is dry through. As the plant is thin and weak, water it slowly without too much.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Common columbine?
When watering the Common columbine, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common columbine comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Common columbine too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common columbine, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common columbine, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common columbine have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common columbine. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common columbine grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common columbine is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Common columbine?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common columbine needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common columbine outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common columbine can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Common columbine need?
When it comes time to water your Common columbine, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Common columbine at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common columbine can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common columbine is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common columbine will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common columbine will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common columbine more water at this time.
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How should I water my Common columbine through the seasons?
The Common columbine will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common columbine will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Common columbine indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common columbine indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common columbine to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common columbine very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Common columbine?

One or two teaspoons of general plant fertilizer or bone meal can be mixed into the soil as the base fertilizer before planting, and liquid fertilizer can be applied to Columbines once a month during the growing season to promote leaf growth and make the flowers more attractive.

Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Common columbine is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Common columbine will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Common columbine to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Common columbine may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Common columbine for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Common columbine and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Common columbine are relatively low. At times, a Common columbine may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Common columbine, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Common columbine to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Common columbine look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Common columbine is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Common columbine will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Common columbine during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Common columbine during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Common columbine.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Common columbine. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Common columbine is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Common columbine. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Common columbine.
The most common way to fertilize a Common columbine is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Common columbine, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Common columbine is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Common columbine to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Common columbine during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Common columbine will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Common columbine?
Fertilization is important to the Common columbine for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Common columbine and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Common columbine are relatively low.
At times, a Common columbine may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Common columbine, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Common columbine to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Common columbine look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Common columbine?
The ideal time to fertilize a Common columbine is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Common columbine will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Common columbine during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Common columbine during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Common columbine.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Common columbine?
You should not fertilize your Common columbine during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Common columbine will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Common columbine need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Common columbine. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Common columbine is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Common columbine. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Common columbine.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Common columbine?
The most common way to fertilize a Common columbine is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Common columbine too much?
As you care for your Common columbine, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Common columbine is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Common columbine to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Common columbine?

Most of Columbines prefer a semi-shaded environment, but they can also grow well under full sunlight in areas where it is cool in summer. It is necessary to avoid direct long-time sunlight in the hot summer, otherwise it will easy to wither, so appropriate shading for the plant is suggested. You can put it on the indoor windowsill if used as potted plant so hummingbirds, bees and butterflies will come during the flowering period.
Aquilegia yabeana is one of the few heat-resistant plants that can stand direct sunlight at the same time among Columbines.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Common columbine need to grow?
Common columbine requires about 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive. However, it also needs some shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sun damage. Morning sunlight is ideal for Common columbine, but it can also tolerate some afternoon sun if the temperature is not too hot. To provide the perfect balance of sunlight, try planting Common columbine in an area that gets partial sun, such as under a tree or on the east side of a building.
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What will happen if Common columbine doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If Common columbine is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves may turn yellow, dry out, or even burn. You may also notice that the plant wilts or becomes stunted. To prevent sun damage, make sure to give Common columbine some shade during the hottest parts of the day. You can use a shade cloth or plant Common columbine near taller plants that can provide some natural shade.
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What will happen if Common columbine gets too much sunlight?
If Common columbine doesn't get enough sunlight, it may grow tall and lanky, with sparse foliage. The leaves may also turn yellow or pale green, indicating that the plant is not producing enough chlorophyll due to lack of sunlight. To remedy this, try moving Common columbine to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby foliage to allow more light to reach the plant.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Common columbine?

You can cut off the withered leaves in summer thus they can regrow. Pruning the withered flowers in time can reduce unnecessary nutrient consumption and prolong the flowering period.
If there is no need to collect seeds at the end of the flowering period, all the above-ground parts of the plant can be cut back for its germination in the next year. The whole plant can be uprooted in fall if the common columbine has been planted for three or four years and new seedlings can be planted with seeds.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Common columbine?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Common columbine to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Common columbine. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Common columbine is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Common columbine will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Common columbine?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Common columbine. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Common columbine is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Common columbine requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Common columbine will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Common columbine?
Common columbine doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Common columbine?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Common columbine based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Common columbine, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Common columbine?

Common columbine is relatively cold-resistant and heat-resistant and is usually cultivated in subtropical areas where the weather is hot and humid in summer. Its optimum hardiness zones are 3-9 and usually blooms in late spring and early summer, and sudden warming may lead to an early end of the flower phase. It tends to produce more flowers in cool summer. It prefers a humid environment without water accumulation and should be watered less frequently in the warmer summer to prevent the root or buds from rotting.
A variety of Columbines native to Europe, such as Common columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris), has similar habits with most Columbines. It grows well in cool summer but has a short growing cycle, so it is mostly planted in flower beds as annual flowers.
Golden columbine (Aquilegia chrysantha) native to North America is a relatively heat-resistant species of Columbines. If it is planted in a partially shaded environment in summer, it can continue to bloom in high temperature, with few symptoms of decaying or wilting. It has a very long flowering period and can bloom throughout the spring and summer and even in the early fall. It may not bloom in the first year after sowing and may only grows a few basal leaves, and it will grow rapidly in the early spring of the next year after accumulating enough nutrients.
Colorado blue columbine (Aquilegia coerulea), also native to North America, is a a quick-flowered Columbines species after sowing. It can bloom in abundance in the first year after sowing, and can bloom as early as the following early spring if planted in autumn. However, since it is native to higher elevations of the Rockies in the United States, its hybrid progeny is less heat-resistant. Colorado blue columbine will reduce flowering when the temperature rises in hot and humid areas in summer and often wither and die in the first summer. If it is planted in a shaded, well ventilated environment and watered less frequently, it may live through the hot summer and produce more flowers in the following year.
Fan columbine (Aquilegia flabellata), native to Asia, is a very heat-resistant and cold-resistant species. The morphology of the plant is extremely compact and it can be cultivated at -35 ℃ and can survive at 40 ℃ in summer. However, its flowering period is relatively short, only lasting about one month in summer when the temperature is high, and about two months when it is planted in Asia where the weather is cool in summer and cold in winter.
Canadian Red columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) prefers moist soil, while Desert columbine (Aquilegia desertorum) is more drought-resistant. Green-flowered columbine (Aquilegia viridiflora) is probably the most drought-resistant species of Columbines, which can grow and in limestone crevices that are difficult to preserve water. It blooms very early with a very long flowering period, and is easy to spread naturally.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Common columbine?
The best temperature for Common columbine depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common columbine has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common columbine may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common columbine will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common columbine. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common columbine to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common columbine
If this is the first year of your Common columbine outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common columbine, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common columbine inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common columbine in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common columbine should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Common columbine from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common columbine from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common columbine in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common columbine is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common columbine to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common columbine
During the cold winter months, Common columbine needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common columbine, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common columbine. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common columbine will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Common columbine?

Common columbine likes moist but well-drained sandy loam with plenty of nutrients and neutral acidity. The use of clayey soil should be avoided with a appropriate pH of 5.7 to 7. Garden soil mixed with sand, peat, compost and humus can be used to plant common columbine to ensure adequate soil nutrients and good air permeability. A layer of covering can be added to the soil surface to preserve heat in winter.
Since its root system is relatively shallow, it does not need to prepare too deep soil or too deep flowerpot, a shallow place or flowerpot will be fine, and it is also preferable to plant it around trees with developed root system. The recommended distance between each plant is at least 30 cm.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Common columbine?

Common columbine usually produces a large number of seeds after blooming, which can be collected for sowing in fall. If the seeds are not collected, they will often spread naturally and grow many self-seedlings in fall or the next spring. As the self-seeding ability of common columbine is so powerful that it should be controlled to prevent the seedlings of common columbine from spreading out of the garden.
In addition, common columbine is very easy to hybridize with each other. If you want to keep the characters of the seed plant and its mother plant consistent, you can plant different Columbine species at regular intervals to avoid hybridization.

Propagation

Only sow Common columbine seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Common columbine in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Common columbine?

Common columbine is mostly perennial plants and can generally live for 4 to 5 years, with some species only living for 1 to 2 years. We can propagate it by sowing or transplanting in general. Since the seeds of common columbine have a short shelf life, they should be sown in the year of collection. Prepare slightly moistened sandy soil before sowing, spread the seeds evenly and press the soil gently and cover it with a layer of glass instead of a layer of fine soil and then place it in a shady environment with a temperature at about 18 to 24 ℃ for germination.
It takes relatively long time for seeds to germinate, which is about 2 to 4 weeks, and it may take a few seeds several months to break the dormancy and finally germinate. In general, seeds of common columbine do not need to be exposed to low temperature to promote germination, but if the seeds do not germinate after a long time, they can be stored at a low temperature environment of -4 to 4 ℃ for 2 to 4 weeks to break the dormancy, and then they can be taken out again for sowing. Seeds that are not used for the time being can also be stored in a refrigerator at low temperature until the next sowing season.
Common columbine has a strong ability of self-seeding and can spread naturally without being sown, so you can also transplant the seedlings and place them where you want them. Its root cap should be flush with the soil surface and all the fragile and fine roots should all be buried in the soil when transplanting.
As the root system of common columbine is relatively fragile, which is not very suitable for division propagation, so if you have to divide a plant, you need to dig out the whole plant and use a sharp knife to divide the whole root system into several clumps and plant them separately as soon as possible without shaking off the root soil. It is better to divide plants in spring and support them with plant stakes when the plant grows higher.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Common columbine?

The best time to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer, when the plant can establish itself well. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial shade. Remember, gentle handling is key to ensure the plant's rootball remains intact.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Common columbine?

Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Common Columbine Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Water
Every week
Common columbine, Aquilegia vulgaris, finds its origin across temperate regions of Europe and thrives ideally in moist, well-drained soils present in wooded areas and meadows. Naturally, it experiences an average annual rainfall of about 600-2,000 mm. These environmental specifics indicate that common columbine has adapted to consistent moisture levels, making regular watering essential for its growth. Overwatering, however, is to be avoided as it can lead to root rot or fungal diseases.
Watering Techniques
Lighting
Partial sun
Common columbine thrives in moderate sun exposure but also endures both shadows and maximised sunlight. Originating from woodland clearings, common columbine can cope with a range of light levels. However, both long-lasting overexposure and underexposure may affect the plant's healthy growth, causing wilting or stunted growth respectively.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 38 ℃
Common columbine is adapted to temperate environments, flourishing most in temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Seasonal adjustments may be required to meet these optimal conditions, especially in warmer or colder climates.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The best time to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer, when the plant can establish itself well. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial shade. Remember, gentle handling is key to ensure the plant's rootball remains intact.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
Characterized by its graceful spurs and vibrant flowers, common columbine thrives with selective pruning. Cut back spent flowers to base, encouraging reblooming. Prune dead or diseased stems anytime; late fall is ideal for shaping. Ensure sharp, clean cuts to prevent damage. Pruning enhances air circulation and plant vigor, promoting robust growth in the following season. Avoid over-pruning to maintain the plant's natural form.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Common columbine can harmonize the flow of chi or energy in a space, enriching an environment with its distinct, captivating beauty. Ideally suited for North-facing areas, the plant's inherent water element can nourish the Wood element often associated with this direction, promoting balance and fortifying abundance and prosperity within the area.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common columbine based on 10 million real cases
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Leaf miners
plant poor
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
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care_toxicity

Common Columbine and Their Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
All parts of common columbine, including the stem, leaves, flowers, and seeds, are toxic when they are ingested raw. Contact with the plant's sap may also lead to dermatitis (skin irritation and inflammation). The symptoms from common columbine poisoning are likely to cause only mild to moderate effects, but the symptoms are not well-known, since there are few documented cases of it. Adverse effects are most likely to occur from accidental ingestion.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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care_more_info

More About Common Columbine

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Biennial
Spread
Spread
30 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Blue
Violet
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 120 cm

Name story

Common columbine
This plant is most often called common columbine. The name Columbine is evolved from the Latin name, colombina meaning a dove-like plant. Due to its pentagram-shaped flowers and it has five stamens, it is often compared to five groups of pigeons. It's also the most common type of pigeon in the genus, so it's called common columbine.
Granny's bonnet
When you see the flowers, you will feel that it is depressed because its flowers grow in a downward direction. Its flowers are composed of two parts which the inner part is huddled with five petals while the outer part is a circle of outward spreading petals like a hatbrim. As the outer petals are a little wrinkled, it makes the plant look like Granny's bonnet.

Usages

Garden Use
Common columbine is a popular perennial garden flower grown for its array of colors and lovely clump-forming habit. Naturalistic and pollinator-friendly gardens particularly benefit from the common columbine, which also makes a lovely specimen piece. They can be used in beds, borders, or even patios. Grow them together with lightly colored plants such as ferns and tiarella to enhance their color!
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Common Problems

Why don't my common columbine seeds sprout?

more more
Since the seeds of common columbine have a short storage period, it is necessary to sow the seeds in the year of collection because it may lead to germination failure if the seeds are placed for a long time or stored improperly. Prepare the germination conditions for sowing, such as slightly moistened sandy soil, proper shade and a temperature of about 18 to 24 ℃, and do not cover them with fine soil after sowing.
It takes relatively a long time for the seeds to germinate, which is about 2 to 4 weeks, and it may take a few seeds several months to break the dormancy and finally germinate. If the seeds do not germinate after a long time, they can be stored at a low temperature environment of -4 to 4 ℃ for 2 to 4 weeks to break the dormancy, and then they can be taken out again for sowing.

Why is the flowering period of my common columbine so short and it even doesn’t bloom?

more more
Most common columbine have shorter flowering periods when exposed to sudden temperature rise; in addition, failure to cut off withered flowers in time may also result in excessive nutrient consumption, resulting in fewer flowers and shorter flowering period. Some common columbine, for instance, golden columbines, may not bloom in the first year after sowing or may grow only a few basal leaves and will not grow rapidly until the early spring of the next year, which require patience for some time.

How can I keep my next generation of common columbine as they were?

more more
It is very easy for common columbine to hybridize with each other, so you can plant different species of common columbine at regular intervals if you want to preserve the original species without hybridizing and character changes.

How can I make my common columbine live through summer and live for several years more?

more more
To provide it with the most suitable growth environment, for example in summer, to ensure a cool temperature, good ventilation, appropriate shade and avoid direct sunlight with slightly moist and well-drained soil, adequate but not excessive soil nutrients, regular watering without water accumulation.

What if common columbine is invading my garden?

more more
If the invasion is in a small range, you can dig or pull them out manually before blooming, or cover the flowers with a cloth or film before digging to avoid seeds from dropping into the soil, and the collected seeds should be destroyed. As it is resilient thus needing continuous attention to the re-growing and spreading. Besides, you can use herbicides when it invades a large area.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
trouble-image
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
trouble-image
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
trouble-image
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
trouble-image
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full shade
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
more
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
show more show-more
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
show more show-more
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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label
main-image
Common Columbine
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
label
main-image
Common Columbine
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Common columbine
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Common columbine
Common columbine
Common columbine

How to Care for Common Columbine

The common columbine is a tall, flowering plant, typically with a long stem and light purple flowers. The Latin specific name for the plant, "vulgaris," means "common," and it comes from the fact that the plants spread easily and grow in many places around Europe. Ancient Romans considered the common columbine to be sacred for the goddess, Venus.
symbolism

Symbolism

Faithless love, a cheating man, wisdom, knowledge, piety
Water
Every week
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Humans
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Common columbine?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Common columbine prefers a slightly moist but well-drained growing environment, so it can be watered once a week or watered until the soil is dry through. As the plant is thin and weak, water it slowly without too much.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Common columbine?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
One or two teaspoons of general plant fertilizer or bone meal can be mixed into the soil as the base fertilizer before planting, and liquid fertilizer can be applied to Columbines once a month during the growing season to promote leaf growth and make the flowers more attractive.
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Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Common columbine is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Common columbine will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Common columbine to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Common columbine may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Common columbine for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Common columbine and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Common columbine are relatively low. At times, a Common columbine may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Common columbine, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Common columbine to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Common columbine look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Common columbine is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Common columbine will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Common columbine during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Common columbine during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Common columbine.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Common columbine. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Common columbine is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Common columbine. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Common columbine.
The most common way to fertilize a Common columbine is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Common columbine, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Common columbine is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Common columbine to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Common columbine during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Common columbine will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Common columbine?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Most of Columbines prefer a semi-shaded environment, but they can also grow well under full sunlight in areas where it is cool in summer. It is necessary to avoid direct long-time sunlight in the hot summer, otherwise it will easy to wither, so appropriate shading for the plant is suggested. You can put it on the indoor windowsill if used as potted plant so hummingbirds, bees and butterflies will come during the flowering period.
Aquilegia yabeana is one of the few heat-resistant plants that can stand direct sunlight at the same time among Columbines.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Common columbine?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
You can cut off the withered leaves in summer thus they can regrow. Pruning the withered flowers in time can reduce unnecessary nutrient consumption and prolong the flowering period.
If there is no need to collect seeds at the end of the flowering period, all the above-ground parts of the plant can be cut back for its germination in the next year. The whole plant can be uprooted in fall if the common columbine has been planted for three or four years and new seedlings can be planted with seeds.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Common columbine?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Common columbine is relatively cold-resistant and heat-resistant and is usually cultivated in subtropical areas where the weather is hot and humid in summer. Its optimum hardiness zones are 3-9 and usually blooms in late spring and early summer, and sudden warming may lead to an early end of the flower phase. It tends to produce more flowers in cool summer. It prefers a humid environment without water accumulation and should be watered less frequently in the warmer summer to prevent the root or buds from rotting.
A variety of Columbines native to Europe, such as Common columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris), has similar habits with most Columbines. It grows well in cool summer but has a short growing cycle, so it is mostly planted in flower beds as annual flowers.
Golden columbine (Aquilegia chrysantha) native to North America is a relatively heat-resistant species of Columbines. If it is planted in a partially shaded environment in summer, it can continue to bloom in high temperature, with few symptoms of decaying or wilting. It has a very long flowering period and can bloom throughout the spring and summer and even in the early fall. It may not bloom in the first year after sowing and may only grows a few basal leaves, and it will grow rapidly in the early spring of the next year after accumulating enough nutrients.
Colorado blue columbine (Aquilegia coerulea), also native to North America, is a a quick-flowered Columbines species after sowing. It can bloom in abundance in the first year after sowing, and can bloom as early as the following early spring if planted in autumn. However, since it is native to higher elevations of the Rockies in the United States, its hybrid progeny is less heat-resistant. Colorado blue columbine will reduce flowering when the temperature rises in hot and humid areas in summer and often wither and die in the first summer. If it is planted in a shaded, well ventilated environment and watered less frequently, it may live through the hot summer and produce more flowers in the following year.
Fan columbine (Aquilegia flabellata), native to Asia, is a very heat-resistant and cold-resistant species. The morphology of the plant is extremely compact and it can be cultivated at -35 ℃ and can survive at 40 ℃ in summer. However, its flowering period is relatively short, only lasting about one month in summer when the temperature is high, and about two months when it is planted in Asia where the weather is cool in summer and cold in winter.
Canadian Red columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) prefers moist soil, while Desert columbine (Aquilegia desertorum) is more drought-resistant. Green-flowered columbine (Aquilegia viridiflora) is probably the most drought-resistant species of Columbines, which can grow and in limestone crevices that are difficult to preserve water. It blooms very early with a very long flowering period, and is easy to spread naturally.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Common columbine?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Common columbine likes moist but well-drained sandy loam with plenty of nutrients and neutral acidity. The use of clayey soil should be avoided with a appropriate pH of 5.7 to 7. Garden soil mixed with sand, peat, compost and humus can be used to plant common columbine to ensure adequate soil nutrients and good air permeability. A layer of covering can be added to the soil surface to preserve heat in winter.
Since its root system is relatively shallow, it does not need to prepare too deep soil or too deep flowerpot, a shallow place or flowerpot will be fine, and it is also preferable to plant it around trees with developed root system. The recommended distance between each plant is at least 30 cm.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Common columbine?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Common columbine usually produces a large number of seeds after blooming, which can be collected for sowing in fall. If the seeds are not collected, they will often spread naturally and grow many self-seedlings in fall or the next spring. As the self-seeding ability of common columbine is so powerful that it should be controlled to prevent the seedlings of common columbine from spreading out of the garden.
In addition, common columbine is very easy to hybridize with each other. If you want to keep the characters of the seed plant and its mother plant consistent, you can plant different Columbine species at regular intervals to avoid hybridization.
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Propagation

Only sow Common columbine seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Common columbine in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Common columbine?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Common columbine is mostly perennial plants and can generally live for 4 to 5 years, with some species only living for 1 to 2 years. We can propagate it by sowing or transplanting in general. Since the seeds of common columbine have a short shelf life, they should be sown in the year of collection. Prepare slightly moistened sandy soil before sowing, spread the seeds evenly and press the soil gently and cover it with a layer of glass instead of a layer of fine soil and then place it in a shady environment with a temperature at about 18 to 24 ℃ for germination.
It takes relatively long time for seeds to germinate, which is about 2 to 4 weeks, and it may take a few seeds several months to break the dormancy and finally germinate. In general, seeds of common columbine do not need to be exposed to low temperature to promote germination, but if the seeds do not germinate after a long time, they can be stored at a low temperature environment of -4 to 4 ℃ for 2 to 4 weeks to break the dormancy, and then they can be taken out again for sowing. Seeds that are not used for the time being can also be stored in a refrigerator at low temperature until the next sowing season.
Common columbine has a strong ability of self-seeding and can spread naturally without being sown, so you can also transplant the seedlings and place them where you want them. Its root cap should be flush with the soil surface and all the fragile and fine roots should all be buried in the soil when transplanting.
As the root system of common columbine is relatively fragile, which is not very suitable for division propagation, so if you have to divide a plant, you need to dig out the whole plant and use a sharp knife to divide the whole root system into several clumps and plant them separately as soon as possible without shaking off the root soil. It is better to divide plants in spring and support them with plant stakes when the plant grows higher.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Common columbine?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best time to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer, when the plant can establish itself well. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial shade. Remember, gentle handling is key to ensure the plant's rootball remains intact.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Common columbine?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common columbine based on 10 million real cases
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Black spot
Black spot Black spot Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Leaf miners
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Common Columbine and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Highly Toxic to Humans
All parts of common columbine, including the stem, leaves, flowers, and seeds, are toxic when they are ingested raw. Contact with the plant's sap may also lead to dermatitis (skin irritation and inflammation). The symptoms from common columbine poisoning are likely to cause only mild to moderate effects, but the symptoms are not well-known, since there are few documented cases of it. Adverse effects are most likely to occur from accidental ingestion.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

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The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Common Columbine

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Biennial
Spread
Spread
30 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Blue
Violet
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 120 cm

Name story

Common columbine
This plant is most often called common columbine. The name Columbine is evolved from the Latin name, colombina meaning a dove-like plant. Due to its pentagram-shaped flowers and it has five stamens, it is often compared to five groups of pigeons. It's also the most common type of pigeon in the genus, so it's called common columbine.
Granny's bonnet
When you see the flowers, you will feel that it is depressed because its flowers grow in a downward direction. Its flowers are composed of two parts which the inner part is huddled with five petals while the outer part is a circle of outward spreading petals like a hatbrim. As the outer petals are a little wrinkled, it makes the plant look like Granny's bonnet.

Usages

Garden Use
Common columbine is a popular perennial garden flower grown for its array of colors and lovely clump-forming habit. Naturalistic and pollinator-friendly gardens particularly benefit from the common columbine, which also makes a lovely specimen piece. They can be used in beds, borders, or even patios. Grow them together with lightly colored plants such as ferns and tiarella to enhance their color!
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Common Problems

Why don't my common columbine seeds sprout?

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Since the seeds of common columbine have a short storage period, it is necessary to sow the seeds in the year of collection because it may lead to germination failure if the seeds are placed for a long time or stored improperly. Prepare the germination conditions for sowing, such as slightly moistened sandy soil, proper shade and a temperature of about 18 to 24 ℃, and do not cover them with fine soil after sowing.
It takes relatively a long time for the seeds to germinate, which is about 2 to 4 weeks, and it may take a few seeds several months to break the dormancy and finally germinate. If the seeds do not germinate after a long time, they can be stored at a low temperature environment of -4 to 4 ℃ for 2 to 4 weeks to break the dormancy, and then they can be taken out again for sowing.

Why is the flowering period of my common columbine so short and it even doesn’t bloom?

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Most common columbine have shorter flowering periods when exposed to sudden temperature rise; in addition, failure to cut off withered flowers in time may also result in excessive nutrient consumption, resulting in fewer flowers and shorter flowering period. Some common columbine, for instance, golden columbines, may not bloom in the first year after sowing or may grow only a few basal leaves and will not grow rapidly until the early spring of the next year, which require patience for some time.

How can I keep my next generation of common columbine as they were?

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It is very easy for common columbine to hybridize with each other, so you can plant different species of common columbine at regular intervals if you want to preserve the original species without hybridizing and character changes.

How can I make my common columbine live through summer and live for several years more?

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To provide it with the most suitable growth environment, for example in summer, to ensure a cool temperature, good ventilation, appropriate shade and avoid direct sunlight with slightly moist and well-drained soil, adequate but not excessive soil nutrients, regular watering without water accumulation.

What if common columbine is invading my garden?

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If the invasion is in a small range, you can dig or pull them out manually before blooming, or cover the flowers with a cloth or film before digging to avoid seeds from dropping into the soil, and the collected seeds should be destroyed. As it is resilient thus needing continuous attention to the re-growing and spreading. Besides, you can use herbicides when it invades a large area.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Partial sun, Full shade
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Common Columbine Watering Instructions
Common columbine, Aquilegia vulgaris, finds its origin across temperate regions of Europe and thrives ideally in moist, well-drained soils present in wooded areas and meadows. Naturally, it experiences an average annual rainfall of about 600-2,000 mm. These environmental specifics indicate that common columbine has adapted to consistent moisture levels, making regular watering essential for its growth. Overwatering, however, is to be avoided as it can lead to root rot or fungal diseases.
When Should I Water My Common Columbine?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the common columbine. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant flower production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Dryness
A clear sign of when common columbine needs water is the dryness of the soil. This can be checked by touching the soil around the plant base. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry to the touch, this means the plant most likely requires watering.
Leaf Wilt and Color Change
Wilted leaves and a change in leaf color are reliable indicators that common columbine needs watering. Wilted leaves can appear droopy and lackluster, while a change in color may be indicated by fading, yellowing, or browning of the leaves.
Flower Bud Formation
Common columbine particularly requires watering during its flower bud formation stage. If the plant lacks sufficient water during this critical period, it may result in bud drop, preventing the plant from flowering fully.
Extreme Temperature and Sunlight Exposure
Common columbine has a high water requirement during warm temperatures and when exposed to high levels of sunlight. It is essential to observe proper watering when these conditions persist.
Early Watering Risks
Watering common columbine too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering common columbine too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the common columbine. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and flowering but also prolongs its lifespan and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Common Columbine?
Unique Watering Requirements
Common columbine prefers well-drained soil and does not tolerate water-saturated soil. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases.
Suitable Watering Techniques
Use a watering can with a long, thin spout to direct water at the base of the plant. Bottom watering, where water is poured into the tray or container that the pot sits in, allowing common columbine to absorb water from the bottom up, is also recommended for it avoids the risk of fungal diseases that can be induced by excessive moisture around the leaves and stems.
Beneficial Equipment
A moisture meter can assist in preventing water-logging or underwatering. This tool helps to determine when it's time to water by checking the moisture levels at the root depth of common columbine. A watering can with a thin spout is ideal for accurate watering at the plant base.
Areas To Focus On Or Avoid During Watering
Direct your focus toward watering at the base of common columbine, while avoiding soaking the foliage, as this could encourage fungal growth. Avoid splashing the flowers to maintain their delicate structure and vibrant color.
Optimum Hydration Conditions
Water common columbine thoroughly until water starts to drain out from the bottom. The best time to water is in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are cooler, and the water will not evaporate too quickly.
How Much Water Does Common Columbine Really Need?
Introduction
Aquilegia vulgaris is a species of plant native to Europe. It thrives in the wild in a variety of habitats such as woodland edges, meadows, and slopes. It's adapted for conditions with moderate to high soil moisture, indicating a decent hydration need.
Optimal Watering Quantity
Aquilegia vulgaris has a moderate water requirement. The optimal watering quantity depends on the pot size, root depth, and plant size. The pot should have good drainage to prevent waterlogged soil. As a general guideline, provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the entire root zone. The frequency of watering will depend on environmental factors such as temperature and humidity. For a mature Aquilegia vulgaris plant in a medium-sized pot, an average watering volume might be around 0.5 to 1 liter per watering session.
Signs of Proper Hydration
Aquilegia vulgaris shows signs of proper hydration when its leaves are upright and not wilting. The plant should have a deep green color, and the flowers should be vibrant and abundant during the blooming season. The soil should be evenly moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering may lead to yellowing leaves, root rot, or fungal diseases. Underwatering may cause wilting, drooping, or browning of leaves.
Risks of Improper Watering
Overwatering Aquilegia vulgaris can lead to root rot, fungal diseases, or the development of molds. It can also cause the plant's roots to suffocate and lead to stunted growth. Underwatering can result in poor plant growth, wilting, and reduced vitality. Both scenarios can make the plant more vulnerable to pests and diseases.
Additional Advice
Aquilegia vulgaris prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. To ensure optimal water retention, mulching around the base of the plant can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. It's important to monitor the soil moisture levels regularly by testing the top few inches of soil with your finger. If it feels dry at this depth, it's time to water.
How Often Should I Water Common Columbine?
Every week
Watering Frequency
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Common Columbine?
Water Type Guide for common columbine
Common columbine prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Rainwater: Best suited for common columbine as it is natural, free of chemicals, and has a balanced pH level.
Distilled Water: Can be used as an alternative to rainwater.
Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available, but chlorine and other chemicals should be considered.
Filtered Water: Suitable if it removes harmful contaminants.
Chlorine Sensitivity
Moderate - common columbine can tolerate some chlorine, but high levels can be harmful to the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Sensitive - High levels of fluoride can be toxic to common columbine.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: Letting tap water sit out for at least 24 hours can help chlorine evaporate, making it safer for common columbine.
Using a water conditioner: Adding a water conditioner specifically designed for removing chlorine and other chemicals can help protect common columbine from potential harm.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - common columbine prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C).
  • Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Common Columbine's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water common columbine in Spring?
Spring is the beginning of the active growth period for common columbine. The soil temperature rises, and plants begin to require more water to cultivate new growth. During this period, ensure common columbine is watered more frequently to keep the soil moist but ensure it is well-drained to prevent root rot. The roots of common columbine are developing and becoming established in spring, so adequate water is essential for this process.
How to Water common columbine in Summer?
Summer is the peak of the common columbine's life cycle. Due to increased sunlight and common columbine's active growth phase, ensure the soil remains consistently moist. If the climate is hot and dry, regular watering is crucial but avoid water logging. In the case of a heatwave, it's best to water common columbine in the early morning or late in the evening when the temperature is cooler so it can absorb the moisture before it evaporates.
How to Water common columbine in Autumn?
In the fall, the growth of common columbine begins to slow down as it prepares for the upcoming dormant period in winter. Consequently, reduce watering gradually. The soil should be slightly moist, but not as saturated as in the summer months. During autumn, plants are prone to fungus and other diseases due to humidity and cooler temperatures, so overwatering should be avoided.
How to Water common columbine in Winter?
Winter is the dormant period for common columbine. The plant's water needs decrease significantly, and it only requires watering when the top layer of soil has dried out completely. A sparse watering schedule will prevent root rot caused by excess moisture in the colder months when evaporation is slow. However, be cautious of the ambient humidity, as overly dry conditions can harm common columbine.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Common Columbine Watering Routine?
Watering Tools
Using a watering can with a long spout or a hose with a gentle spray nozzle can help direct water to the base of the plants without wetting the foliage excessively. This can prevent the spread of diseases and reduce water waste.
Time of Day
Watering common columbine in the early morning or late afternoon is ideal, as it allows the plants to absorb the water before the heat of the day. Avoid watering in the evening to prevent prolonged leaf wetness, which can promote fungal growth.
Tolerating Dryness
While common columbine prefers consistently moist soil, it can tolerate short periods of dryness. This makes it important to assess soil moisture levels beyond just the surface. Insert your finger or a moisture meter a few inches into the soil to check for moisture before watering.
Mulching Benefits
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or compost, around the base of common columbine can help retain soil moisture, inhibit weed growth, and regulate soil temperature. Mulching also improves overall soil health and reduces watering frequency.
Avoid Over-Watering
Over-watering common columbine can lead to root rot and other issues. Instead of watering on a fixed schedule, monitor the soil moisture level and only water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Adjust the frequency of watering based on weather conditions and the plant's specific needs.
Signs of Thirst or Over-Watering
Signs that common columbine needs water include wilting leaves, dry soil, and a general lack of vigor. On the other hand, signs of over-watering include yellowing leaves, root rot, and a foul odor. Pay attention to these signs and adjust watering accordingly.
Watering in Special Conditions
During a heatwave, common columbine may require more frequent watering to combat dehydration. Be sure to check the soil moisture levels regularly and provide supplemental water as needed. On the other hand, during extended periods of rain, reduce or suspend watering to prevent waterlogged soil and root damage. When common columbine is stressed, such as after transplanting, reduce watering until it recovers and shows signs of new growth.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Common Columbine?
Overview of Hydroponics
Aquilegia vulgaris, also known as Common columbine, can be successfully grown using hydroponics, which is a method of growing plants in a water-based nutrient solution instead of soil. Hydroponics offers precise control over the plant's nutrient intake and eliminates the risk of soil-borne diseases.
Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) is a suitable hydroponic system for Aquilegia vulgaris. This system involves a shallow tray with a continuous flow of nutrient solution that allows the plant's roots to access water and nutrients. NFT provides good aeration to the roots and ensures efficient nutrient uptake.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
Aquilegia vulgaris prefers a well-balanced nutrient solution with an N-P-K ratio of 20-20-20. The recommended concentration for the nutrient solution is 1000-1500 ppm (parts per million). Maintain the pH level of the solution between 5.8 and 6.2 for optimal nutrient absorption.
Challenges and Common Issues
One common challenge when growing Aquilegia vulgaris hydroponically is root rot, which can occur due to overwatering or poor oxygenation. Monitor the roots regularly and ensure proper aeration to prevent root rot. Nutrient imbalances may also arise, so regularly test the nutrient solution to adjust concentrations as needed. Provide adequate light to prevent leggy growth and ensure healthy development.
Monitoring Plant Health
Monitor the health of Aquilegia vulgaris in a hydroponic setup by observing the plant for signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth. Check the roots for any signs of rot or discoloration. Also, monitor the pH and nutrient levels regularly to maintain optimal conditions.
Adjusting the Hydroponic Environment
Adjust the hydroponic environment based on the growth stages and specific needs of Aquilegia vulgaris. In the early growth stage, provide lower light intensity and gradually increase it as the plant matures. As the plant develops flowers, ensure proper airflow and provide support to prevent breakage. Adjust the nutrient solution concentrations as per the plant's nutrient requirements during different growth stages.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering Symptoms of Common columbine
Common columbine is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering Symptoms of Common columbine
Common columbine is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Common Columbine
Why are the leaves of my common columbine turning yellow?
Yellow leaves may be a sign of overwatering. Common columbine prefers well-drained soil and too much water can cause root rot. Reduce your watering and allow the soil to dry out a bit between watering. If the problem persists, you may need to improve the drainage of your soil.
The leaves of my common columbine are curling and turning brown. What should I do?
Curling and browning of leaves is often a sign of underwatering in common columbine. You should increase the frequency of your watering, ensuring the soil remains moist but not waterlogged. If the plant shows no improvement even after adjusting the watering, consider temperature and humidity as the curling might also be due to excessively dry air.
Why is my common columbine wilting even though I am watering it frequently?
Wilting is often a sign of overwatering. Even though common columbine like moist soil, they can't tolerate waterlogged conditions. Allow the soil to dry out before you water again. If the wilting persists, consider enhancing your soil's drainage by adding sand or perlite.
My common columbine is losing its flowers prematurely, what might be the cause?
Premature flower loss could be due to inconsistent watering. Common columbine requires a consistent watering schedule where the soil is kept moist but not soggy. Too much or too little water can stress the plant leading to premature flower drop. Adjust your watering to consistently moist conditions for best results.
Why is my common columbine not blooming despite regular watering?
While watering is important for the common columbine to bloom, overwatering could lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of flower production. Reduce your watering frequency slightly and ensure the soil is well-drained. Also, check for appropriate light conditions as insufficient light can impact blooming.
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade, Full sun
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Common columbine thrives in moderate sun exposure but also endures both shadows and maximised sunlight. Originating from woodland clearings, common columbine can cope with a range of light levels. However, both long-lasting overexposure and underexposure may affect the plant's healthy growth, causing wilting or stunted growth respectively.
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Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Common columbine is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your common columbine may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Common columbine enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Common columbine thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Common columbine is adapted to temperate environments, flourishing most in temperatures of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Seasonal adjustments may be required to meet these optimal conditions, especially in warmer or colder climates.
Regional wintering strategies
Common columbine has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Common columbine is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Common columbine should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Common Columbine?
The best time to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer, when the plant can establish itself well. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial shade. Remember, gentle handling is key to ensure the plant's rootball remains intact.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Common Columbine?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Common Columbine?
The perfect moment to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer. This period offers ideal growing conditions and higher survival rates for your lovely common columbine.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Common Columbine Plants?
For common columbine, it's important to give them room to grow. We recommend transplanting them with a spacing of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This allows their roots to spread and ensures they receive adequate nutrients and light. Happy planting!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Common Columbine Transplanting?
To give common columbine the best start, prepare well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. Adding a base fertilizer like compost, aged manure, or an all-purpose slow-release granular fertilizer will give these beautiful plants an extra boost.
Where Should You Relocate Your Common Columbine?
Choosing the right location is critical for common columbine's success. They thrive in partial shade to full sun, so find a spot in your garden that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. They'll brighten up your garden in no time!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Common Columbine?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig holes and carefully lift the plant from its original location.
Trowel
For digging smaller holes and working with the plant's root ball.
Watering Can
To water the plant both before and after transplanting.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged roots or branches.
Garden Fork
To help loosen the soil in the planting hole.
How Do You Remove Common Columbine from the Soil?
- From Ground: First, water the common columbine plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
- From Pot: Water the common columbine plant well so the soil is moist. Turn the pot sideways while supporting the plant's stem. Gently slide the plant out of the pot, making sure to keep the root ball intact. If the plant is stuck, tap the pot on the sides to loosen the soil.
- From Seedling Tray: Flood the tray with water to help ease the removal process. With a trowel, gently lift the common columbine seedling from the tray, being careful not to damage the roots. Hold the seedling by the leaves and not by the stem, as the stem is very delicate.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Common Columbine
Site Preparation
Prepare the transplanting site by loosening the soil with a garden fork to a depth of 8-10 inches (20-25 cm), which helps to establish a healthy root system.
Digging the Hole
Dig a hole that is about twice the width and depth of the common columbine plant's root ball.
Root Ball Inspection
Use pruning shears to trim away any damaged or diseased roots from the root ball.
Placing the Plant
Gently place the common columbine plant in the hole, making sure that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface. Do not bury the crown of the plant (the point where the stem meets the roots) as this can lead to rot.
Filling the Hole
Fill the hole half full with soil, ensuring there are no air pockets. Water the plant thoroughly, allowing the water to settle the soil. Complete filling the hole with soil, and gently firm the soil around the base of the plant.
Watering
Thoroughly water the transplanted common columbine plant.
How Do You Care For Common Columbine After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the common columbine consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Mulching
Apply a 5 cm (5 cm) layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, around the base of the common columbine plant. This helps to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain a consistent soil temperature.
Protection
Shield the transplanted common columbine plant from direct sunlight, high winds, and extreme temperatures for the first week by using a plant cover or temporary shade structure.
Fertilizing
Wait two to three weeks after transplanting before applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to the soil around the common columbine plant, following the manufacturer's recommended application rates.
Pruning
Trim off any dead or damaged foliage as needed to maintain the overall appearance and health of the common columbine plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Common Columbine Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant common columbine?
The ideal time to transplant common columbine is during mid-spring to early summer, when the weather is mild and the soil is workable.
What is the recommended spacing for common columbine plants?
Aim to space common columbine plants approximately 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart to allow for proper growth and airflow.
How deep should I dig the hole for transplanting common columbine?
Dig a hole that's about twice the width and the same depth as the root ball, ensuring the plant's base is at the soil surface.
Do I need to amend the soil prior to transplanting common columbine?
Improve soil quality by mixing in organic matter or compost to promote healthy root growth and boost nutrient levels.
How can I gently remove common columbine from its original container?
Carefully squeeze or tap the sides of the container to release the root ball, or cut it open if needed, avoiding root damage.
What special care should be taken when handling the root ball of common columbine?
Hold the root ball firmly but gently, avoiding squeezing or pulling on the plant's stem to prevent damaging the roots.
How should I position common columbine in the transplant hole?
Place common columbine into the hole so its base is at soil level. Gently spread the roots outward to encourage proper growth.
What are the ideal watering requirements when transplanting common columbine?
Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the root ball and surrounding soil, avoiding over-watering which could lead to rot.
Should I add mulch after transplanting common columbine?
Add a 2-3 inch (5-7.5 cm) layer of organic mulch around the plant to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
How can I ensure successful transplantation of common columbine?
Monitor the plant's health, provide consistent watering, protect it from extreme temperatures, and occasionally add a balanced fertilizer for best results.
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