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FAQ

How to Care for Marlberry

Marlberry is a rare tree that is native to the Philippines. It is listed as vulnerable by the World Conservation Monitoring Center. The fruit and flowers of marlberry are used to flavor fish dishes.
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Marlberry
Marlberry
Marlberry
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Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Marlberry?

Once established, your marlberry will tolerate short periods of drought but will do best in soil that is kept moist. The first year after planting and during periods of drought, you may need to water weekly to keep the soil moist. If you're growing your marlberry indoors, keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy - soil that is too wet can cause root rot.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Marlberry?
Your Marlberry will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Marlberry. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Marlberry. However, the Marlberry usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Marlberry too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Marlberry can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Marlberry is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Marlberry, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Marlberry from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Marlberry in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Marlberry, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Marlberry?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Marlberry is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Marlberry. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Marlberry .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Marlberry need?
When it comes time to water your Marlberry, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Marlberry by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Marlberry gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Marlberry is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Marlberry is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Marlberry a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Marlberry enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Marlberry, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Marlberry will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Marlberry will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Marlberry.
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How can I water my Marlberry at different growth stages?
When the Marlberry is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Marlberry that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Marlberry can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Marlberry is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Marlberry through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Marlberry. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Marlberry will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Marlberry indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Marlberry may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Marlberry?

Marlberry planted outdoors should only be fertilized when in exceptionally poor soil or if you notice signs of a nutritional deficiency, such as yellow leaves or no growth. Overfertilizing can cause fast but weak growth and will likely result in an unhealthy plant.
When grown indoors, marlberry should be fertilized once per month in the spring and summer with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Brown leaf tips indicate over-fertilizing.

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Marlberry since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Marlberry plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Marlberry outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Marlberry you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Marlberry be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Marlberry is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Marlberry. Doing so will prompt your Marlberry to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Marlberry is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Marlberry all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Marlberry to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Marlberry will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Marlberry be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Marlberry is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Marlberry likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Marlberry. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Marlberry may also need
To fertilize your Marlberry using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Marlberry, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Marlberry. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Marlberry. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Marlberry may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Marlberry can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Marlberry to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Marlberry.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Marlberry. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Marlberry will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Marlberry will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Marlberry?
Regardless of which kind of Marlberry you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Marlberry be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Marlberry is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Marlberry. Doing so will prompt your Marlberry to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Marlberry?
The first time that you should fertilize your Marlberry is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Marlberry all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Marlberry to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Marlberry will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Marlberry be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Marlberry?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Marlberry. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Marlberry will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Marlberry will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Marlberry need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Marlberry is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Marlberry likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Marlberry. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Marlberry?
To fertilize your Marlberry using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Marlberry, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Marlberry. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my Marlberry too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Marlberry. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Marlberry may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Marlberry can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Marlberry to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Marlberry.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Marlberry?

Marlberry does best in partial to full shade. Some varieties may tolerate full sun but others are susceptible to foliage burns. When grown indoors, the plant does well in bright and sunny rooms, but not direct sunlight.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Marlberry get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Marlberry receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Marlberry need?
Marlberry does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Marlberry? How to protect Marlberry from the sun and heat damage?
Marlberry planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Marlberry during extreme weather events.
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Does Marlberry need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Marlberry from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Marlberry, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Marlberry to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Marlberry gets inadequate sunlight?
When Marlberry receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Marlberry receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Marlberry need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Marlberry and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Marlberry fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Marlberry?
Recently transplanted Marlberry will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Marlberry drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Marlberry that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Marlberry?

If desired, you can prune your marlberry to help shape the plant. Prune in late winter or early spring, before the growing season starts. If you want to prevent your marlberry from spreading by seed, you can also prune off spent blooms to keep the plant from producing berries.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Marlberry?
The Marlberry is a low-maintenance, winter-hardy, and drought-resistant evergreen perennial plant. This means it can thrive almost anywhere. This unique plant grows well indoors, as well as in many outdoor environments. To keep yours in good health, it’s recommended that you prune it only as needed to control growth and maintain shape. This popular shurb can take up quite a bit of room if left to grow freely. Given enough time, it can be pruned to grow into a small tree. Marlberry is very resilient and learning how to prune them is easy.
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When is the best time to prune my Marlberry?
A lot of new gardeners shy away from pruning the Marlberry because they’re afraid to cut too much. Luckily, Marlberry is generally considered to be among the easier and more forgiving plants to prune since regrowth appears quite quickly. Although these perennials are relatively fast-growing, you only need to prune when you spot unsightly overgrowth or damaged leaves. In other words, if your Marlberry starts to look uneven or damaged, it may be a good time to prune. If you want to control the size of Marlberry, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Marlberry is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Marlberry.
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What should I do after pruning my Marlberry?
When pruning your Marlberry, always use freshly cleaned shears to prevent the possibility of cross-contamination from other plants. The Marlberry has a high tolerance for drought and cold weather, and can even survive irregular watering schedules for short periods. When grown indoors, it prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 °F and should be kept away from air conditioning drafts to prevent discoloration, leaf fall, and other damage.
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How should I prune my Marlberry during different seasons or stages of growth?
The good news is that these plants have a medium growth rate which means they cycle through growth stages fairly quickly. Once your plant matures, you can follow normal pruning methods. Marlberry is mainly used for leaf viewing, flowers have no ornamental value and will consume nutrients, you can prune the flowers when the plant is in bloom and concentrate the nutrients for the growth of the leaves. If you want to control the size of Marlberry, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Marlberry is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Marlberry.
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What tools, techniques and tricks should I use when pruning my Marlberry?
Before getting started, it’s best to have a plan. Try to visualize the basic shape and style of how you want your plant to look. Having a goal in mind will help you choose what pruning method and tools to use. Once you have an idea of how you want it to look, it’s time to get ready to prune. Tools Sharp scissors or a pair of hand pruners work great when pruning your Marlberry. However, if you keep your Marlberry outdoors or allow it to grow freely, you may need a tree pruner to reach higher leaves. How to prune When learning how to prune your Marlberry, factors like growth stage, climate, and the current season will give you clues about your plant's pruning needs. Additionally, how you want your plant to look is another thing to consider. If you want to control the size of Marlberry, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. For example, if you want your plant to be short and round, cutting from the top and pruning any leggy parts will be your best bet. If you want a tall, slender appearance, cut from the bottom and sides to limit the spread of growth to encourage vertical growth. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. To simplify the process, here are a few tips to remember:
  1. Leave the main stalk in place and trim around it.
  2. Trim off any dead or unhealthy-looking branches and remove or cut any “suckers”
  3. Use shears, scissors, or your fingers to cut or pinch just below the bud, branch, or stem.
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What are common problems when pruning my Marlberry and how can I fix them?
One major concern when it comes to pruning the Marlberry is the possibility of mites, disease, and infection from the laceration left behind after pruning. This can be lessened by pruning at an angle and monitoring the site until healed. Additionally, taking special care to not overwater to prevent the soil from becoming too damp can minimize the risk of spider mites and aphids.
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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Marlberry?

Marlberry is a tropical plant that can only be grown outdoors where winter temperatures remain above -12 ℃. The plant is susceptible to damage from severe cold and windburn, but can tolerate areas with high humidity. It also has moderate salt tolerance.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Marlberry?

Marlberry tolerates a variety of soil conditions, including sand or loam, and will tolerate an acidic, neutral, or alkaline pH. While it can be grown in average soil, the marlberry thrives in fertile, well-drained soil. When growing in a container, select a rich and well-draining potting mix.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Marlberry?

Marlberry can be propagated by planting the berries, which contain seeds. plant them outdoors or in a container, about 1.3 cm deep in the soil. Be sure to keep the soil moist as they germinate, as well as while the plants are small.

Propagation

Marlberry provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Marlberry grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Marlberry has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Marlberry. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Marlberry by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Marlberry should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Marlberry are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Marlberry in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Marlberry a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Marlberry, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Marlberry to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Marlberry regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Marlberry on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Marlberry?

Marlberry can be planted year-round in warm climates, but those in colder climates should wait until late spring or early summer. Compost and sphagnum peat moss can be added to the planting soil to help improve fertility and drainage. Dig a hole 15 to 30 cm wider than the pot your plant came in, and plant it at the same depth as it was in the pot, carefully filling in around the roots. Gently but firmly pack the soil down and water well.
If you're growing your marlberry in a container, select a pot with drainage holes and a diameter 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the one it came in. Use well-draining potting soil and gently pack this in around the plant's roots, before watering well.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Marlberry is susceptible to frost damage and windburn. If you live in a colder climate, mulch your plant in the fall with hay or straw and provide protection from severe winds. Mulch should be pulled back in the spring.
seasonal-tip
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Marlberry based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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care_more_info

More About Marlberry

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1.5 to 3 m
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 m
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Common Problems

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How do I prevent my marlberry from spreading so much?

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If you don't want your marlberry to spread too quickly, you can prune spent blooms before berries are produced. This prevents the plants from spreading by seed, though some species will still spread through their root system.
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Marlberry
Marlberry
Marlberry

How to Care for Marlberry

Marlberry is a rare tree that is native to the Philippines. It is listed as vulnerable by the World Conservation Monitoring Center. The fruit and flowers of marlberry are used to flavor fish dishes.
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Marlberry?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Once established, your marlberry will tolerate short periods of drought but will do best in soil that is kept moist. The first year after planting and during periods of drought, you may need to water weekly to keep the soil moist. If you're growing your marlberry indoors, keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy - soil that is too wet can cause root rot.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Marlberry?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Marlberry planted outdoors should only be fertilized when in exceptionally poor soil or if you notice signs of a nutritional deficiency, such as yellow leaves or no growth. Overfertilizing can cause fast but weak growth and will likely result in an unhealthy plant.
When grown indoors, marlberry should be fertilized once per month in the spring and summer with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Brown leaf tips indicate over-fertilizing.
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Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Marlberry since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Marlberry plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Marlberry outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Marlberry you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Marlberry be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Marlberry is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Marlberry. Doing so will prompt your Marlberry to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Marlberry is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Marlberry all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Marlberry to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Marlberry will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Marlberry be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Marlberry is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Marlberry likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Marlberry. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Marlberry may also need
To fertilize your Marlberry using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Marlberry, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Marlberry. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Marlberry. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Marlberry may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Marlberry can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Marlberry to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Marlberry.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Marlberry. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Marlberry will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Marlberry will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Marlberry?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Marlberry does best in partial to full shade. Some varieties may tolerate full sun but others are susceptible to foliage burns. When grown indoors, the plant does well in bright and sunny rooms, but not direct sunlight.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Marlberry?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
If desired, you can prune your marlberry to help shape the plant. Prune in late winter or early spring, before the growing season starts. If you want to prevent your marlberry from spreading by seed, you can also prune off spent blooms to keep the plant from producing berries.
Do I need to prune my Marlberry?
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Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Marlberry?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Marlberry is a tropical plant that can only be grown outdoors where winter temperatures remain above -12 ℃. The plant is susceptible to damage from severe cold and windburn, but can tolerate areas with high humidity. It also has moderate salt tolerance.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Marlberry?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Marlberry tolerates a variety of soil conditions, including sand or loam, and will tolerate an acidic, neutral, or alkaline pH. While it can be grown in average soil, the marlberry thrives in fertile, well-drained soil. When growing in a container, select a rich and well-draining potting mix.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Marlberry?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Marlberry can be propagated by planting the berries, which contain seeds. plant them outdoors or in a container, about 1.3 cm deep in the soil. Be sure to keep the soil moist as they germinate, as well as while the plants are small.
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Propagation

Marlberry provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Marlberry grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Marlberry has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Marlberry. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Marlberry by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Marlberry should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Marlberry are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Marlberry in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Marlberry a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Marlberry, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Marlberry to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Marlberry regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Marlberry on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Marlberry?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Marlberry can be planted year-round in warm climates, but those in colder climates should wait until late spring or early summer. Compost and sphagnum peat moss can be added to the planting soil to help improve fertility and drainage. Dig a hole 15 to 30 cm wider than the pot your plant came in, and plant it at the same depth as it was in the pot, carefully filling in around the roots. Gently but firmly pack the soil down and water well.
If you're growing your marlberry in a container, select a pot with drainage holes and a diameter 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the one it came in. Use well-draining potting soil and gently pack this in around the plant's roots, before watering well.
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Marlberry is susceptible to frost damage and windburn. If you live in a colder climate, mulch your plant in the fall with hay or straw and provide protection from severe winds. Mulch should be pulled back in the spring.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

feedback
Common issues for Marlberry based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Learn More About the Leaf Weevils more
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Prevention
Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
  • Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
  • Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
  • Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
  • Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
  • Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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More About Marlberry

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1.5 to 3 m
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 m
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Common Problems

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How do I prevent my marlberry from spreading so much?

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If you don't want your marlberry to spread too quickly, you can prune spent blooms before berries are produced. This prevents the plants from spreading by seed, though some species will still spread through their root system.
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