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How to Care for Orchid Tree

Orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata) is a partially deciduous shrub-like tree that can grow from 6 to 8 m tall. Large fragrant flowers resembling orchids blossom from winter to spring. The colors of the flowers range from orchid purple to light pink all in the same blossom. A fast-growing tree that blooms best in full sun makes a spectacular street tree when grown in warm climates.
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, Beauty
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Newly-planted orchid tree requires watering at least twice a week or when the topsoil feels dry. Older trees, on the other hand, can be watered thoroughly at least once a week in the summer or every 4 to 6 weeks in winter. You can skip irrigating the plant during wet weather. Though many types of orchid tree can tolerate drought conditions well, frequent watering helps the plants maintain good flowering and vigor.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Orchid tree?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Orchid tree prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Orchid tree too much/too little?
An overwatered Orchid tree can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Orchid tree recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Orchid tree indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Orchid tree outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Orchid tree?
The Orchid tree likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Orchid tree generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Orchid tree?
The Orchid tree generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Orchid tree is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Orchid tree is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Orchid tree continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Orchid tree a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Orchid tree according to different seasons or climates?
The Orchid tree needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Orchid tree to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Orchid tree will need less water during the winter. Since the Orchid tree will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Orchid tree growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Orchid tree can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Orchid tree and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Orchid tree’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Orchid tree’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Orchid tree in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Orchid tree mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Orchid tree in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Orchid tree begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Orchid tree important?
Watering the Orchid tree helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Orchid tree thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Established orchid tree will highly benefit from the regular application of fertilizers. Feeding will not only maintain excellent plant vigor, but it will also help established plants achieve their best blooms. For orchid tree, spring fertilization with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer is recommended. You can likewise fertilize in the summer, during its flowering stage, with fertilizers rich in potassium and phosphorus. For young plants, you can apply a liquid complete fertilizer, like an 8-8-8 or 12-12-12, once a month.

Fertilizer

Bright colors and rich textures are what Orchid tree can add to your home décor. With a few well-placed and well-cared-for Orchid tree plants, you can impress your home guests and enhance the beauty of your house. The issue is, if you don't understand how to fertilize your Orchid tree, there is little chance that you can expect this plant to perform its best. Read on to learn answers to some of the most common fertilization questions about Orchid tree.
Fertilization is important to a Orchid tree overall health and well-being. With the proper supply of energy and nutrients, your Orchid tree will develop a healthy array of foliage while also producing a set of sturdy stems and branches. However, it is the flowers of a Orchid tree that are often most valuable to the gardeners who grow them. Fortunately, fertilization also helps this plant produce flowers that are large, vibrant, and long-lasting. The reason for this is that the right kind of fertilizer will make it much easier for your Orchid tree to transfer fuel from its roots through its stems to its flowers. Proper fertilization also keeps this plant's health in good general condition, making it better able to fight off diseases.
The main time of year when you should fertilize a Orchid tree is during the early spring when your plant is exiting its dormant phase and preparing to open its buds. Feeding at this time will give your Orchid tree plenty of available energy to use to support its overall growth and flower development, but this is not the only time that it is a good idea to feed this plant. An additional feeding at the end of the season during the fall months can also benefit this plant, although this second feeding does not need to be as large as the first one. Also, some gardeners choose to fertilize their Orchid tree while they are planting it, but this is not always necessary.
While it is often alright to use a general-purpose fertilizer that has even ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, Orchid tree plants often do best when they receive a specific type of fertilizer. In most instances, the most important nutrients for a Orchid tree are nitrogen and phosphorus, which is why they should appear in higher volumes in the fertilizer you use compared to the potassium content. A fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-8 or something similar should work well. However, it can also be beneficial to apply an organic material such as compost for at least one of your annual feedings. If you choose to use fertilizer, it is most common to use granular fertilizer for a Orchid tree.
Applying fertilizer for your Orchid tree is a quite straightforward task that any gardener can perform, even those with minimal experience. To feed your Orchid tree with granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil. However, before you do so, make sure that you moisten the soil with water. Additionally, you can also amend your Orchid tree plant's soil by adding an organic material like compost or manure. If you want to incorporate one of those amendments into your soil, you should place some of the material on top of the soil. Then use a hand rake to gently work the material into the first few inches of soil without disturbing the roots.
There are several negative outcomes that will occur if your regularly overfertilize your Orchid tree. First, when you give one of these plants too much fertilizer, you can expect to see leaf discoloration and perhaps some wilting. Excessive fertilization can also lead to fertilizer burn, which will dry out the roots, making them ineffective.
However, the threats of overfertilization do not end there for the Orchid tree. If you feed one of these plants too much, it may show a lack of flowers or bloom with flowers that are a bit lackluster. Also, an overfertilized Orchid tree will be weaker overall, show stunted growth, and is more vulnerable to diseases and pest infestations.
As is the case for many plants, you do not need to fertilize your Orchid tree during the winter. In winter, a Orchid tree will be in a dormant phase, which means it does not need to gain much energy from the soil to develop new growth. Fertilizing during winter makes it much more likely that the negative outcomes of overfertilization will occur. The two main feeding times for a Orchid tree are during the early spring and the fall. That means that during most of the spring and summer, this plant will not need fertilizer. It is also wise to hold off on feedings if your plant is experiencing excessively hot or dry conditions for whatever reason.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Orchid tree?
Fertilization is important to a Orchid tree overall health and well-being. With the proper supply of energy and nutrients, your Orchid tree will develop a healthy array of foliage while also producing a set of sturdy stems and branches.
However, it is the flowers of a Orchid tree that are often most valuable to the gardeners who grow them. Fortunately, fertilization also helps this plant produce flowers that are large, vibrant, and long-lasting. The reason for this is that the right kind of fertilizer will make it much easier for your Orchid tree to transfer fuel from its roots through its stems to its flowers. Proper fertilization also keeps this plant's health in good general condition, making it better able to fight off diseases.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Orchid tree?
The main time of year when you should fertilize a Orchid tree is during the early spring when your plant is exiting its dormant phase and preparing to open its buds. Feeding at this time will give your Orchid tree plenty of available energy to use to support its overall growth and flower development, but this is not the only time that it is a good idea to feed this plant.
An additional feeding at the end of the season during the fall months can also benefit this plant, although this second feeding does not need to be as large as the first one. Also, some gardeners choose to fertilize their Orchid tree while they are planting it, but this is not always necessary.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Orchid tree?
As is the case for many plants, you do not need to fertilize your Orchid tree during the winter. In winter, a Orchid tree will be in a dormant phase, which means it does not need to gain much energy from the soil to develop new growth. Fertilizing during winter makes it much more likely that the negative outcomes of overfertilization will occur.
The two main feeding times for a Orchid tree are during the early spring and the fall. That means that during most of the spring and summer, this plant will not need fertilizer. It is also wise to hold off on feedings if your plant is experiencing excessively hot or dry conditions for whatever reason.
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What type of fertilizer does my Orchid tree need?
While it is often alright to use a general-purpose fertilizer that has even ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, Orchid tree plants often do best when they receive a specific type of fertilizer. In most instances, the most important nutrients for a Orchid tree are nitrogen and phosphorus, which is why they should appear in higher volumes in the fertilizer you use compared to the potassium content.
A fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-8 or something similar should work well. However, it can also be beneficial to apply an organic material such as compost for at least one of your annual feedings. If you choose to use fertilizer, it is most common to use granular fertilizer for a Orchid tree.
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How do I fertilize my Orchid tree?
Applying fertilizer for your Orchid tree is a quite straightforward task that any gardener can perform, even those with minimal experience. To feed your Orchid tree with granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil. However, before you do so, make sure that you moisten the soil with water.
Additionally, you can also amend your Orchid tree plant's soil by adding an organic material like compost or manure. If you want to incorporate one of those amendments into your soil, you should place some of the material on top of the soil. Then use a hand rake to gently work the material into the first few inches of soil without disturbing the roots.
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What happens if I fertilize my Orchid tree too much?
There are several negative outcomes that will occur if your regularly overfertilize your Orchid tree. First, when you give one of these plants too much fertilizer, you can expect to see leaf discoloration and perhaps some wilting. Excessive fertilization can also lead to fertilizer burn, which will dry out the roots, making them ineffective.
However, the threats of overfertilization do not end there for the Orchid tree. If you feed one of these plants too much, it may show a lack of flowers or bloom with flowers that are a bit lackluster. Also, an overfertilized Orchid tree will be weaker overall, show stunted growth, and is more vulnerable to diseases and pest infestations.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Although orchid tree tolerates partial or light shade, it grows best in full sun. Though it will do fine with less sunlight, this shrub or tree will thrive and produce more and better flowers if planted where it has access to full sun. Insufficient light will reduce flowering in mature plants, while excessive light will cause fading leaves. For some species, like the Purple orchid tree, the seedlings are generally grown commercially under half-shading using black or colored nets.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Orchid tree need to grow?
Tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. These plants are adapted to growing in areas with intense, direct sunlight and require this type of light to thrive. In their natural habitats, they are often found growing in open fields or along the edges of forests, where they receive ample sunlight throughout the day.
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What will happen if Orchid tree doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun do not receive enough sunlight, they may become leggy and weak. They may also develop yellow or pale leaves, and may stop producing flowers. Over time, these plants may die if they are not given the amount of direct sunlight they need.
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What will happen if Orchid tree gets too much sunlight?
While tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a lot of direct sunlight, they can be damaged by too much sun. If these plants are exposed to intense sunlight for prolonged periods, they may develop sunburned leaves or brown spots. They may also become dehydrated if the soil dries out too quickly in full sun.
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How can you protect Orchid tree from excessive sunlight?
To protect tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun from excessive sunlight, it is important to choose a location that gets plenty of direct sunlight but also has some protection from the hottest part of the day. If you are growing these plants in containers, you can move them to a more shaded location during the hottest part of the day to protect them from the sun's rays. You can also provide some shade by using a shade cloth or umbrella during the hottest part of the day.
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Cautions and tips
It is important to gradually acclimate tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun gradually to direct sunlight, especially if they have been grown indoors or in a shaded area. Start by placing the plant in direct sunlight for an hour or two each day, gradually increasing the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight over a period of several days or weeks. Be sure to keep an eye on the plant's soil moisture levels when it is exposed to full sun. These plants may require more frequent watering in full sun than they would in a more shaded location. Use a moisture meter or check the soil with your finger to determine when the plant needs to be watered.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning is a common practice that helps plants like orchid tree develop a well-structured form. However, the timing of pruning is crucial - it should not be done during the first year after planting since this would only stress the tree. Prune your orchid tree in late spring or summer after it has finished blooming for the season, since it flowers on old wood. However, you can remove weak, dead, or damaged branches at any time of the year.
Prune your orchid tree to your desired shape. You can cut off any shoot growth from the trunk base to attain a classic tree shape, or let them grow to give your plant a more shrub-like appearance. Cut back broken and crossing branches, as well as leggy growth stems.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Orchid tree?
Despite having a relatively fast habit of growth, Orchid tree does not require very much pruning. It is not necessary to routinely prune this tree, however, it does require some pruning every once in a while. Pruning can be done to tidy this tree up and remove any diseased or damaged foliage. Or Orchid tree can be pruned for shaping.
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When is the best time to prune my Orchid tree?
Orchid tree should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing. The best time to prune Orchid tree is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant.
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How can I prune my Orchid tree?
Pruning Orchid tree is a fairly easy task if you know what to look for. To prune these trees, you will need a pair of sharp pruning shears. Using your pruning shears, remove any damaged or diseased parts of the tree. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. Additionally, leaving the lower limbs alone will help to prevent any disease-inducing stress, as well as suckers from forming.
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What should I do after pruning my Orchid tree?
There are no special requirements to follow after you have pruned your Orchid tree. It is recommended, however, that you dispose of any diseased foliage that has been removed from the tree away from any other plants. This is to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. After pruning your Orchid tree, you may apply a fertilizer treatment to encourage faster growth. Do not water the plants immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds.
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What should I be careful with when pruning my Orchid tree during different growing stages?
The best time to prune Orchid tree is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. This will increase ventilation and light, reduce disease infection and allow Orchid tree to grow more vigorously. When pruning branches you need to leave the strong ones and remove the weak ones, keeping healthy auxiliary branches that grow outwards at about 45 degrees. Branches that are too angled or too small should be removed. Pruning Saw is required if the branch is more than three quarters of an inch in size, pruning should be done in the direction of the "Branch bark ridge" to the "Branch collar" to allow for good healing. Branches that require a saw need to be pruned using the "three-cut method", which prevents the bark of the branch from tearing and creating cracks in the trunk, which can be detrimental to the recovery of the plant. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant to keep it looking its best as if it's possible. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Orchid tree?
The best thing to remember about Orchid tree is that they do not require routine pruning. Your tree will likely grow better if you prune it as and when it is necessary and no more than that. Additionally, you should also keep in mind that it is better to leave the lower limbs of this tree alone to prevent stress-induced diseases from attacking your tree. Different diameter branches require different pruning tools. If the tree is too tall, pruning needs to be done safely or by a professional.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Native to India and China, orchid tree is widely distributed throughout the subtropical and tropical regions of the world. It is an excellent choice for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10. The tree can only tolerate light frost, but not temperatures that go as low as -6 to -9 ℃ or below. Fully established plants are tolerant of high heat and drought.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Orchid tree?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Orchid tree require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Orchid tree doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Orchid tree need different temperatures for different seasons?
Orchid tree does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Orchid tree healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Orchid tree?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Orchid tree is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Orchid tree grows best if planted in a fertile, moist, and well-drained soil. It’s not particular about soil type, since it can grow in a sandy, loamy, or gravelly soil. The ideal soil pH is below 7.5 because alkaline soils often result in yellowing leaves. Good drainage is a must since, as with most plants, it does not like waterlogged conditions.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

plant orchid tree in spring, ideally when the weather is cold. The planting hole must be large and deep enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Spread out loose roots toward the outer edges before filling back the planting hole with soil. Gradually fill it in with loose soil, starting with a one-third portion of the planting hole. Then, gently tamp or water the soil before adding more layers. Continue adding and tamping until the entire plant hole is filled.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

For orchid tree to thrive, transplant during the perfect window in early to mid-summer. this allows the plant to establish its roots in a sun-kissed location before winter comes. Remember, proper soil drainage is key to a successful transplant!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
The orchid tree prefers moderately moist soil, as it originates from tropical forest environments. Water the plant thoroughly, allowing soil to partially dry between waterings. Adjust watering during seasons with high humidity or heat, to prevent root rot and dehydration.
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Lighting
Full sun
The orchid tree is drawn to areas of abundant light, basking under the sky's generous rays. In its native habitat, it often grows in such luminous surroundings. It can moderate to slightly less illuminated conditions, however excessive shade can hinder its health and growth. Inadequate lighting may cause reduced flowering and weakened structure.
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Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
The orchid tree tree, like most tropical plants, is native to tropical and subtropical regions. It prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), and can tolerate some degree of temperature fluctuation. During the winter months, it is suggested to reduce watering and keep the plant in slightly cooler temperatures to encourage healthy growth.
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Transplant spacing
15-18 feet
For orchid tree to thrive, transplant during the perfect window in early to mid-summer. This allows the plant to establish its roots in a sun-kissed location before winter comes. Remember, proper soil drainage is key to a successful transplant!
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Orchid tree based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Nutrient deficiencies
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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care_more_info

More About Orchid Tree

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
8 to 12 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
6 to 10 m

Name story

Orchid tree
Although it is not from Orchidaceae family, the flowers appear similar to that of an orchid and it is also considered as a small tree. Therefore, it is called orchid tree.

Usages

Garden Use
Orchid tree can be grown as a loose shrub in borders or as a staked and pruned tree. Its flowers make it a striking specimen tree. It is used as a street tree in public places and is also a good addition to a Mediterranean or hummingbird garden. Agave and rosemary are great companion plants that would complete a Mediterranean feel.
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care_faq

Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my orchid tree turning yellow?

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Orchid tree sometimes exhibits yellowing leaves due to several reasons. plants often turn yellow when they are experiencing moisture stress - which means that you’re either overwatering or underwatering them. If your plants start to show yellowing leaves, check if the soil is too dry or too wet. Adjust your watering frequency and schedule as necessary.
Yellowing of the leaves is also a common symptom of insect pest infestations. Pests like spider mites and cotton lace bugs attack the leaves through feeding, often resulting in such physical damage to the plant. If your orchid tree is infested with pests, apply the necessary measures to control the pests, and then help the plant recover. You can spray insecticidal soap, neem oil, or pesticides.

My orchid tree is not flowering. How can I get it to bloom?

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Flowering shrubs and trees like orchid tree need a sufficient amount of light and nutrients to produce flowers. Sometimes, orchid tree only produces a few beautiful flowers or none at all when the conditions are not favorable. If your plant is not flowering, consider its location - it has to be in an area with full sun. You can also try fertilizing your plant with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer at least once a year.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
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more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
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more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
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more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Orchid Tree
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Orchid Tree
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree
Orchid tree

How to Care for Orchid Tree

Orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata) is a partially deciduous shrub-like tree that can grow from 6 to 8 m tall. Large fragrant flowers resembling orchids blossom from winter to spring. The colors of the flowers range from orchid purple to light pink all in the same blossom. A fast-growing tree that blooms best in full sun makes a spectacular street tree when grown in warm climates.
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Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Newly-planted orchid tree requires watering at least twice a week or when the topsoil feels dry. Older trees, on the other hand, can be watered thoroughly at least once a week in the summer or every 4 to 6 weeks in winter. You can skip irrigating the plant during wet weather. Though many types of orchid tree can tolerate drought conditions well, frequent watering helps the plants maintain good flowering and vigor.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Established orchid tree will highly benefit from the regular application of fertilizers. Feeding will not only maintain excellent plant vigor, but it will also help established plants achieve their best blooms. For orchid tree, spring fertilization with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer is recommended. You can likewise fertilize in the summer, during its flowering stage, with fertilizers rich in potassium and phosphorus. For young plants, you can apply a liquid complete fertilizer, like an 8-8-8 or 12-12-12, once a month.
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Fertilizer

Bright colors and rich textures are what Orchid tree can add to your home décor. With a few well-placed and well-cared-for Orchid tree plants, you can impress your home guests and enhance the beauty of your house. The issue is, if you don't understand how to fertilize your Orchid tree, there is little chance that you can expect this plant to perform its best. Read on to learn answers to some of the most common fertilization questions about Orchid tree.
Fertilization is important to a Orchid tree overall health and well-being. With the proper supply of energy and nutrients, your Orchid tree will develop a healthy array of foliage while also producing a set of sturdy stems and branches. However, it is the flowers of a Orchid tree that are often most valuable to the gardeners who grow them. Fortunately, fertilization also helps this plant produce flowers that are large, vibrant, and long-lasting. The reason for this is that the right kind of fertilizer will make it much easier for your Orchid tree to transfer fuel from its roots through its stems to its flowers. Proper fertilization also keeps this plant's health in good general condition, making it better able to fight off diseases.
The main time of year when you should fertilize a Orchid tree is during the early spring when your plant is exiting its dormant phase and preparing to open its buds. Feeding at this time will give your Orchid tree plenty of available energy to use to support its overall growth and flower development, but this is not the only time that it is a good idea to feed this plant. An additional feeding at the end of the season during the fall months can also benefit this plant, although this second feeding does not need to be as large as the first one. Also, some gardeners choose to fertilize their Orchid tree while they are planting it, but this is not always necessary.
While it is often alright to use a general-purpose fertilizer that has even ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, Orchid tree plants often do best when they receive a specific type of fertilizer. In most instances, the most important nutrients for a Orchid tree are nitrogen and phosphorus, which is why they should appear in higher volumes in the fertilizer you use compared to the potassium content. A fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-8 or something similar should work well. However, it can also be beneficial to apply an organic material such as compost for at least one of your annual feedings. If you choose to use fertilizer, it is most common to use granular fertilizer for a Orchid tree.
Applying fertilizer for your Orchid tree is a quite straightforward task that any gardener can perform, even those with minimal experience. To feed your Orchid tree with granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil. However, before you do so, make sure that you moisten the soil with water. Additionally, you can also amend your Orchid tree plant's soil by adding an organic material like compost or manure. If you want to incorporate one of those amendments into your soil, you should place some of the material on top of the soil. Then use a hand rake to gently work the material into the first few inches of soil without disturbing the roots.
There are several negative outcomes that will occur if your regularly overfertilize your Orchid tree. First, when you give one of these plants too much fertilizer, you can expect to see leaf discoloration and perhaps some wilting. Excessive fertilization can also lead to fertilizer burn, which will dry out the roots, making them ineffective.
However, the threats of overfertilization do not end there for the Orchid tree. If you feed one of these plants too much, it may show a lack of flowers or bloom with flowers that are a bit lackluster. Also, an overfertilized Orchid tree will be weaker overall, show stunted growth, and is more vulnerable to diseases and pest infestations.
As is the case for many plants, you do not need to fertilize your Orchid tree during the winter. In winter, a Orchid tree will be in a dormant phase, which means it does not need to gain much energy from the soil to develop new growth. Fertilizing during winter makes it much more likely that the negative outcomes of overfertilization will occur. The two main feeding times for a Orchid tree are during the early spring and the fall. That means that during most of the spring and summer, this plant will not need fertilizer. It is also wise to hold off on feedings if your plant is experiencing excessively hot or dry conditions for whatever reason.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Although orchid tree tolerates partial or light shade, it grows best in full sun. Though it will do fine with less sunlight, this shrub or tree will thrive and produce more and better flowers if planted where it has access to full sun. Insufficient light will reduce flowering in mature plants, while excessive light will cause fading leaves. For some species, like the Purple orchid tree, the seedlings are generally grown commercially under half-shading using black or colored nets.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is a common practice that helps plants like orchid tree develop a well-structured form. However, the timing of pruning is crucial - it should not be done during the first year after planting since this would only stress the tree. Prune your orchid tree in late spring or summer after it has finished blooming for the season, since it flowers on old wood. However, you can remove weak, dead, or damaged branches at any time of the year.
Prune your orchid tree to your desired shape. You can cut off any shoot growth from the trunk base to attain a classic tree shape, or let them grow to give your plant a more shrub-like appearance. Cut back broken and crossing branches, as well as leggy growth stems.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Native to India and China, orchid tree is widely distributed throughout the subtropical and tropical regions of the world. It is an excellent choice for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10. The tree can only tolerate light frost, but not temperatures that go as low as -6 to -9 ℃ or below. Fully established plants are tolerant of high heat and drought.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Orchid tree grows best if planted in a fertile, moist, and well-drained soil. It’s not particular about soil type, since it can grow in a sandy, loamy, or gravelly soil. The ideal soil pH is below 7.5 because alkaline soils often result in yellowing leaves. Good drainage is a must since, as with most plants, it does not like waterlogged conditions.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
plant orchid tree in spring, ideally when the weather is cold. The planting hole must be large and deep enough to accommodate the entire root ball. Spread out loose roots toward the outer edges before filling back the planting hole with soil. Gradually fill it in with loose soil, starting with a one-third portion of the planting hole. Then, gently tamp or water the soil before adding more layers. Continue adding and tamping until the entire plant hole is filled.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
For orchid tree to thrive, transplant during the perfect window in early to mid-summer. this allows the plant to establish its roots in a sun-kissed location before winter comes. Remember, proper soil drainage is key to a successful transplant!
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Orchid tree based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies  Nutrient deficiencies  Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects  Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Nutrient deficiencies
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Orchid Tree

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
8 to 12 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
6 to 10 m

Name story

Orchid tree
Although it is not from Orchidaceae family, the flowers appear similar to that of an orchid and it is also considered as a small tree. Therefore, it is called orchid tree.

Usages

Garden Use
Orchid tree can be grown as a loose shrub in borders or as a staked and pruned tree. Its flowers make it a striking specimen tree. It is used as a street tree in public places and is also a good addition to a Mediterranean or hummingbird garden. Agave and rosemary are great companion plants that would complete a Mediterranean feel.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my orchid tree turning yellow?

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Orchid tree sometimes exhibits yellowing leaves due to several reasons. plants often turn yellow when they are experiencing moisture stress - which means that you’re either overwatering or underwatering them. If your plants start to show yellowing leaves, check if the soil is too dry or too wet. Adjust your watering frequency and schedule as necessary.
Yellowing of the leaves is also a common symptom of insect pest infestations. Pests like spider mites and cotton lace bugs attack the leaves through feeding, often resulting in such physical damage to the plant. If your orchid tree is infested with pests, apply the necessary measures to control the pests, and then help the plant recover. You can spray insecticidal soap, neem oil, or pesticides.

My orchid tree is not flowering. How can I get it to bloom?

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Flowering shrubs and trees like orchid tree need a sufficient amount of light and nutrients to produce flowers. Sometimes, orchid tree only produces a few beautiful flowers or none at all when the conditions are not favorable. If your plant is not flowering, consider its location - it has to be in an area with full sun. You can also try fertilizing your plant with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer at least once a year.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
more
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Water
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
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Essentials
The orchid tree prefers moderately moist soil, as it originates from tropical forest environments. Water the plant thoroughly, allowing soil to partially dry between waterings. Adjust watering during seasons with high humidity or heat, to prevent root rot and dehydration.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth.
Requirements
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
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For Orchid tree, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Orchid tree is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Orchid tree is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The orchid tree is drawn to areas of abundant light, basking under the sky's generous rays. In its native habitat, it often grows in such luminous surroundings. It can moderate to slightly less illuminated conditions, however excessive shade can hinder its health and growth. Inadequate lighting may cause reduced flowering and weakened structure.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Orchid tree thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your orchid tree may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Orchid tree enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Orchid tree thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The orchid tree tree, like most tropical plants, is native to tropical and subtropical regions. It prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), and can tolerate some degree of temperature fluctuation. During the winter months, it is suggested to reduce watering and keep the plant in slightly cooler temperatures to encourage healthy growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Orchid tree is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Orchid tree indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Orchid tree prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Orchid tree should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant spacing
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How to Successfully Transplant Orchid tree?
For orchid tree to thrive, transplant during the perfect window in early to mid-summer. This allows the plant to establish its roots in a sun-kissed location before winter comes. Remember, proper soil drainage is key to a successful transplant!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Orchid tree?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Orchid tree?
The optimum moment to move orchid tree is from the dawn of summer until its height. This specific slot holds significant value as the plant can acclimate better to the new place. Plus, the mild weather supports root development and absorption, ensuring orchid tree's healthy growth. So, trust the process and take the plunge when summer's sunshine starts kissing the earth!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Orchid tree Plants?
To ensure ample space for your orchid tree, arrange them at a distance of about 15-18 ft (4.5-5.5 m) apart. This will accommodate their growth and create a beautiful display in your garden.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Orchid tree Transplanting?
For best results, use well-draining soil rich in organic matter. To prepare the ideal nutrient-rich base for your orchid tree, mix in some compost or aged manure with the native soil in the planting hole.
Where Should You Relocate Your Orchid tree?
Choose a spot in your garden where your orchid tree will receive at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. This will ensure the healthy growth and blooming of this gorgeous perennial.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Orchid tree?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from any scrapes or cuts while dealing with the soil and plant.
Spade or Shovel
To dig around and under the plant for removing it with minimal root disturbance.
Garden Trowel
For digging smaller, precise holes which might be needed if relocating the orchid tree to a pot.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged roots or branches of the orchid tree during the transplant process.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
To keep the plant's roots moist before, during and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the orchid tree plant from its original location to the new planting site, if the plant is large.
Burlap
To wrap the root ball during transport, which reduces the chance of root disturbance and drying out.
Gardening Fork
To loosen the soil at the new planting site.
How Do You Remove Orchid tree from the Soil?
Ensure the site you have chosen has been prepared, with the soil loosened using a garden fork. Evaluate the depth and width needed for your orchid tree by the size of its root ball.

Follow the described removal process depending on whether your orchid tree is in the ground, a pot, or a seedling tray.

Place the orchid tree in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Adjust the soil under the root ball if needed.

Backfill the hole with soil, packing it gently around the root ball. Be careful not to bury the orchid tree too deep to avoid stem rot.

Thoroughly water the plant after transplantation, until the soil is adequately moist.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Orchid tree
Step1 Preparation
Ensure the site you have chosen has been prepared, with the soil loosened using a garden fork. Evaluate the depth and width needed for your orchid tree by the size of its root ball.
Step2 Plant Removal
Follow the described removal process depending on whether your orchid tree is in the ground, a pot, or a seedling tray.
Step3 Plant Placement
Place the orchid tree in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Adjust the soil under the root ball if needed.
Step4 Backfilling
Backfill the hole with soil, packing it gently around the root ball. Be careful not to bury the orchid tree too deep to avoid stem rot.
Step5 Watering
Thoroughly water the plant after transplantation, until the soil is adequately moist.
How Do You Care For Orchid tree After Transplanting?
Initial Care
During the first few days after transplanting, protect your orchid tree from harsh weather conditions such as strong winds or full sun exposure. This gives the plant a chance to adapt to its new environment.
Regular Watering
Regular watering is essential in the initial weeks post-transplant as the orchid tree establishes itself. Make sure not to overwater as it could lead to root rot.
Pruning
Prune the orchid tree after a few weeks if you notice any dead or wilting branches. This helps the plant to direct its energy to new growth. Always remember to sterilize pruning equipment before use to prevent disease spread.
Monitor Growth
Keep an eye out for any signs of stress, like yellowing leaves or stunted growth. If these signs are seen, consult a local nursery for advice.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Orchid tree Transplantation.
When should I consider relocating my orchid tree?
Transplanting orchid tree is ideally done early to mid-summer. This gives the plant sufficient time to establish before winter.
What is the recommended spacing between orchid tree plants?
For proper growth, transplanted orchid tree should be spaced about 15 to 18 feet apart (4.5 to 5.5 meters). This ensures ample sunlight and nutrient availability.
What should I do if a transplanted orchid tree does not show new growth?
Don't worry! Sometimes, orchid tree takes time to adapt. Ensure it's getting enough sunlight and water. Reduce watering during winter and increase in summer.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted orchid tree turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves may signal overwatering or poor drainage. Check the soil's moisture levels and drainage. Adjust watering frequency as necessary to avoid soggy soil.
How deep should I dig when transplanting orchid tree?
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball, about 2 feet (0.6 meters) deep. This gives orchid tree roots ample space to spread out and grow.
How frequently should I water my transplanted orchid tree?
Water your transplanted orchid tree once or twice a week, ensuring the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Increase frequency in summer, reduce in winter.
Why is my transplanted orchid tree drooping or wilting?
Wilting after transplanting is normal for orchid tree. Ensure adequate watering without overdoing it. If this persists, check for root rot or other diseases.
Does orchid tree need pruning after transplanting?
Yes, but not immediately. As orchid tree adapts to its new habitat, you'll want to prune any dead or decaying branches to encourage fresh growth.
Should I fertilize orchid tree after transplanting?
Yes, after transplanting orchid tree, use a balanced slow-release fertilizer to stimulate root growth. Avoid fertilizer high in Nitrogen, which may burn the roots.
What type of soil is best for transplanting orchid tree?
Orchid tree prefers well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.5-7.0. Avoid waterlogged or extremely dry soils for optimal growth.
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A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
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This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
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