When watering the Common daisy, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common daisy comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Common Daisy
The common daisy produces iconic flowers that are seen in European and American folklore dating back centuries. It is often a representation of childlike innocence. The plant is edible and can be used in small quantities in salads, sandwiches, soups, or tea. However, it can also become toxic and cause digestive problems if eaten in quantity.

Symbolism
Naivety, peace, hope

Water
Every week


Sunlight
Full sun









Basic Care Guide

Water
Daisies are not very drought-tolerant plants and require ample moisture. You will need to provide them a lot of moisture while they become established. The germination period will last for 10-20 days. During this period, you should water them when the soil dries out to a depth of around 5 cm. It is best to water them slowly, as to allow the soil to take in the water as deep as it can. Also, if planting in warmer climates, be sure to water your lawn during the warmest periods or droughts. They don’t do well in damp soil so avoid flooding them.


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What is the best way to water my Common daisy?
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What should I do if I water my Common daisy too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common daisy, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common daisy, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common daisy have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common daisy. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common daisy grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common daisy is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Common daisy?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common daisy needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common daisy outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common daisy can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Common daisy need?
When it comes time to water your Common daisy, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Common daisy at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common daisy can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common daisy is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common daisy will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common daisy will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common daisy more water at this time.
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How should I water my Common daisy through the seasons?
The Common daisy will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common daisy will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Common daisy indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common daisy indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common daisy to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common daisy very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Fertilizer
Daisies do not necessarily need or perform well in artificially fertilized soils. However, they will benefit from organic compost or manure. Spread and mix in the organic fertilizer when loosening the soil before sowing the daisy seeds. When the seedlings mature, you can apply a 5 cm layer of organic mulch. Wood chips, pine needles or bark will do the trick. Mulching will help the soil hold moisture and moderate extremes temperatures. Also, the mulch will slowly decompose in time and release additional nutrients to the soil.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Common daisy?
Fertilization is important to the Common daisy for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Common daisy and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Common daisy are relatively low.
At times, a Common daisy may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Common daisy, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Common daisy to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Common daisy look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Common daisy?
The ideal time to fertilize a Common daisy is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Common daisy will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Common daisy during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Common daisy during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Common daisy.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common daisy?
You should not fertilize your Common daisy during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Common daisy will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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What type of fertilizer does my Common daisy need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Common daisy. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Common daisy is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Common daisy. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Common daisy.
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How do I fertilize my Common daisy?
The most common way to fertilize a Common daisy is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
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What happens if I fertilize my Common daisy too much?
As you care for your Common daisy, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Common daisy is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Common daisy to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
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Sunlight
Daisies are adaptable regarding the sunlight and grow best in full sunlight to partial-shaded positions. In fact, they prefer milder sun so much that their flowers may not bloom during the most intense summer periods but flourish during cooler days of late summer or fall. If your lawn is located in warmer climates, afternoon shade is required for full bloom. Also, daisies that receive afternoon shade will have their flowers last longer during the spring.


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What type of sunlight does Common daisy need?
Common daisy needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Common daisy? How to protect Common daisy from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Common daisy from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Common daisy gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Common daisy and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Common daisy need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Common daisy is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Common daisy is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Common daisy need for photosynthesis?
Common daisy will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Common daisy get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Common daisy to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Pruning
Daises will not require pruning because of their small and delicate built. However, your lawn will benefit a lot from deadheading spent flowers by removing them. And you may need to include the removal of unwanted flowers from areas where you don’t want them to grow, as they are rampant self-seeders. Remember to remove these plants from the root, otherwise, they will return.

Do I need to prune my Common daisy?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Common daisy to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Common daisy. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Common daisy is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Common daisy will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Common daisy?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Common daisy. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Common daisy is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Common daisy requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Common daisy will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Common daisy?
Common daisy doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Common daisy?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Common daisy based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Common daisy, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Daisies thrive in cooler climates and they require a cold period to induce maximum bloom. Keeping the temperature around 15 ℃ is beneficial for flowering, while a temperature of 21 to 24 ℃ is better for seed germination. In fact, if the summers are cool and humid enough, daisies will bloom throughout the season and nicely spread to your entire lawn. The downside is that they are not drought-tolerant plants, and require lots of moisture. This is because, in the climates that the plant native to, the springs are cool with lots of rainfall.

What is the optimal temperature for Common daisy?
The best temperature for Common daisy depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common daisy has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common daisy may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common daisy will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common daisy. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common daisy to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common daisy
If this is the first year of your Common daisy outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common daisy, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common daisy inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common daisy in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common daisy should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Common daisy from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common daisy from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common daisy in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common daisy is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common daisy to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common daisy
During the cold winter months, Common daisy needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common daisy, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common daisy. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common daisy will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
Daisies benefit from well-drained soil that a bit loamy and organically rich. Although they will tolerate wide ranges of soils, they will grow happiest in soil with pH 6.1-7.5. Prepare it by loosening the top 15 cm and mixing in a 2.5 cm layer of organic compost or manure. This is especially important for daisies if the soil type in your garden is sandy or clay.


Propagation

Planting
Daisies are hardy and successful spreaders so they will propagate themselves by spreading crowns. You can also use their eagerness for spread to your advantage, and propagate them where you want to very easily by division. Just dig up the plants, use a trowel or a similar tool to divide the plants into smaller sections, and replant them. Remember to always generously water replanted daisies.
Propagation
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The time planting daisies will depend on when would you like them to bloom. For fall and winter blooms, plant them during late summer/early fall. If you would prefer spring blooms, plant daisies in late winter months. Daisies are best and most often grown from the seed, and they are available in probably every garden store. Loosen the topsoil and sow the seeds. To properly germinate, daisy seeds need some sunlight so no need to cover them with soil. It is enough just to spread the seeds across the moist soil.


Transplanting

Potting Suggestions
To ensure common daisy thrives, transplant during early to mid-spring or mid-fall. This timing helps establish a healthy root system. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and avoid heavy frosts while transplanting.

When English daisy seedlings grow three pairs of leaves, they can be transplanted into pots. There is no need for repotting afterwards.


More About How-Tos

Water
Every week

Lighting
Full sun
The common daisy favors consistent exposure to the sun, fostering robust growth. However, it can withstand areas with partial shade. Originated from environments where sunlight is plentiful, the plant may exhibit stunted growth and pale leaves from too little sun, while excess can cause leaf scorch.

Temperature
0 38 ℃
Common daisy is native to temperate zones, preferentially growing in temperatures ranging from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Seasonal adaptations may require slight temperature adjustments within this range for optimal growth.

Transplant
10-20 cm
To ensure common daisy thrives, transplant during early to mid-spring or mid-fall. This timing helps establish a healthy root system. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and avoid heavy frosts while transplanting.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common daisy based on 10 million real cases



Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.



Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.



Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.

Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.

Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.

Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Common Daisy

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial

Spread
9 to 16 cm

Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid summer

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2 to 3.5 cm

Plant Height
3 to 15 cm
Name story
Common daisy
The name "daisy" is derived from "day's eye" because the flowers closes during night time and blooms in the morning. There are many related plants that also share the name "daisy", so to distinguish this species from others it is sometimes qualified as a common daisy.
Usages
Artistic Value
The English daisy is mentioned in Hamlet
Garden Use
Common daisy is frequently used in spring bedding, prized for its robustness and hardiness. Gardeners like that this early spring to late summer bloomer can be grown in any aspect and use it for edging in exposed and sheltered areas. It is a great addition to wildflower or alpine gardens.

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Common Problems
My daisies lawn does not look vigorous. Why is this happening?


This could likely be the problem of damping caused by overwatering. Daisies require moisture, but not dampness. Excessive water might negatively affect the root system and result in root rot which may endanger your entire garden. Make sure your soil drains properly and water only in the morning, so the water may evaporate during the day.
My daisies are not flowering. What should I do?


Daisies are biennial, which means that they might start blooming in the following year. Generally, they require a cool period to induce flowering. If you live in a mild climate, this can be provided by planting them in autumn and letting them in the soil through the winter to bloom in early spring.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.








Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Common Daisy

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.



Common Daisy

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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About
Basic Care
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FAQ
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How to Care for Common Daisy
The common daisy produces iconic flowers that are seen in European and American folklore dating back centuries. It is often a representation of childlike innocence. The plant is edible and can be used in small quantities in salads, sandwiches, soups, or tea. However, it can also become toxic and cause digestive problems if eaten in quantity.

Symbolism
Naivety, peace, hope

Every week
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Daisies are not very drought-tolerant plants and require ample moisture. You will need to provide them a lot of moisture while they become established. The germination period will last for 10-20 days. During this period, you should water them when the soil dries out to a depth of around 5 cm. It is best to water them slowly, as to allow the soil to take in the water as deep as it can. Also, if planting in warmer climates, be sure to water your lawn during the warmest periods or droughts. They don’t do well in damp soil so avoid flooding them.

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Fertilizer

Daisies do not necessarily need or perform well in artificially fertilized soils. However, they will benefit from organic compost or manure. Spread and mix in the organic fertilizer when loosening the soil before sowing the daisy seeds. When the seedlings mature, you can apply a 5 cm layer of organic mulch. Wood chips, pine needles or bark will do the trick. Mulching will help the soil hold moisture and moderate extremes temperatures. Also, the mulch will slowly decompose in time and release additional nutrients to the soil.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Common daisy?

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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common daisy?

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Sunlight

Daisies are adaptable regarding the sunlight and grow best in full sunlight to partial-shaded positions. In fact, they prefer milder sun so much that their flowers may not bloom during the most intense summer periods but flourish during cooler days of late summer or fall. If your lawn is located in warmer climates, afternoon shade is required for full bloom. Also, daisies that receive afternoon shade will have their flowers last longer during the spring.

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Pruning

Daises will not require pruning because of their small and delicate built. However, your lawn will benefit a lot from deadheading spent flowers by removing them. And you may need to include the removal of unwanted flowers from areas where you don’t want them to grow, as they are rampant self-seeders. Remember to remove these plants from the root, otherwise, they will return.
Do I need to prune my Common daisy?

When is the best time to prune my Common daisy?

What tools should I prepare for pruning my Common daisy?

Are there any instructions for pruning my Common daisy?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Daisies thrive in cooler climates and they require a cold period to induce maximum bloom. Keeping the temperature around 15 ℃ is beneficial for flowering, while a temperature of 21 to 24 ℃ is better for seed germination. In fact, if the summers are cool and humid enough, daisies will bloom throughout the season and nicely spread to your entire lawn. The downside is that they are not drought-tolerant plants, and require lots of moisture. This is because, in the climates that the plant native to, the springs are cool with lots of rainfall.
What is the optimal temperature for Common daisy?

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common daisy

How can I protect Common daisy from extreme temperatures?

Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common daisy

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Soil

Daisies benefit from well-drained soil that a bit loamy and organically rich. Although they will tolerate wide ranges of soils, they will grow happiest in soil with pH 6.1-7.5. Prepare it by loosening the top 15 cm and mixing in a 2.5 cm layer of organic compost or manure. This is especially important for daisies if the soil type in your garden is sandy or clay.

Propagation

Planting

Daisies are hardy and successful spreaders so they will propagate themselves by spreading crowns. You can also use their eagerness for spread to your advantage, and propagate them where you want to very easily by division. Just dig up the plants, use a trowel or a similar tool to divide the plants into smaller sections, and replant them. Remember to always generously water replanted daisies.

Propagation
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The time planting daisies will depend on when would you like them to bloom. For fall and winter blooms, plant them during late summer/early fall. If you would prefer spring blooms, plant daisies in late winter months. Daisies are best and most often grown from the seed, and they are available in probably every garden store. Loosen the topsoil and sow the seeds. To properly germinate, daisy seeds need some sunlight so no need to cover them with soil. It is enough just to spread the seeds across the moist soil.

Transplanting

Potting Suggestions

To ensure common daisy thrives, transplant during early to mid-spring or mid-fall. This timing helps establish a healthy root system. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and avoid heavy frosts while transplanting.

When English daisy seedlings grow three pairs of leaves, they can be transplanted into pots. There is no need for repotting afterwards.

More About How-Tos

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common daisy based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering



Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More

Leaf rot



This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More

Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Underwatering



Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More

Leaf miners



Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Learn More

Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More


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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.

Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.

Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.

Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Common Daisy

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial

Spread
9 to 16 cm

Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid summer

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2 to 3.5 cm

Plant Height
3 to 15 cm
Name story
Common daisy
The name "daisy" is derived from "day's eye" because the flowers closes during night time and blooms in the morning. There are many related plants that also share the name "daisy", so to distinguish this species from others it is sometimes qualified as a common daisy.
Usages
Artistic Value
The English daisy is mentioned in Hamlet
Garden Use
Common daisy is frequently used in spring bedding, prized for its robustness and hardiness. Gardeners like that this early spring to late summer bloomer can be grown in any aspect and use it for edging in exposed and sheltered areas. It is a great addition to wildflower or alpine gardens.

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Common Problems
My daisies lawn does not look vigorous. Why is this happening?


This could likely be the problem of damping caused by overwatering. Daisies require moisture, but not dampness. Excessive water might negatively affect the root system and result in root rot which may endanger your entire garden. Make sure your soil drains properly and water only in the morning, so the water may evaporate during the day.
My daisies are not flowering. What should I do?


Daisies are biennial, which means that they might start blooming in the following year. Generally, they require a cool period to induce flowering. If you live in a mild climate, this can be provided by planting them in autumn and letting them in the soil through the winter to bloom in early spring.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.



















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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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Water

How Often Should I Water Common Daisy?

Every week
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
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Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Common daisy is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots

Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems

Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Common daisy is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling

Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases

Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
The common daisy favors consistent exposure to the sun, fostering robust growth. However, it can withstand areas with partial shade. Originated from environments where sunlight is plentiful, the plant may exhibit stunted growth and pale leaves from too little sun, while excess can cause leaf scorch.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Common daisy thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your common daisy may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Common daisy enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Common daisy thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
Common daisy is native to temperate zones, preferentially growing in temperatures ranging from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Seasonal adaptations may require slight temperature adjustments within this range for optimal growth.

Regional wintering strategies
Common daisy has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Common daisy is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Common daisy should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant

How to Successfully Transplant Common Daisy?
To ensure common daisy thrives, transplant during early to mid-spring or mid-fall. This timing helps establish a healthy root system. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and avoid heavy frosts while transplanting.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Common Daisy?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Common Daisy?

The perfect seasons to transplant common daisy would definitely be early to mid-spring, or even mid-fall. Reason being, the gentle air and soil temperatures boost your plant's root establishment process. By transplanting common daisy during these seasons, you're selecting a time when the plant is least active above ground, but its roots are still growth-intensive. This approach gives your common daisy a sturdy start and higher survival rates. Remember, in gardening timing is everything. With transplanting, it truly shows.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Common Daisy Plants?

For successful transplanting of common daisy, ensure you space each plant 4-8 inches (10-20 cm) apart. This will provide them with ample room to grow and flourish.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Common Daisy Transplanting?

To create a thriving environment for common daisy, use well-draining, fertile soil. Before transplanting, mix in a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to support healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Common Daisy?

Choose a location with plenty of sunlight for your common daisy, as they'll thrive in both full sun and partial shade. Make sure to avoid areas with constant wet conditions or deep shade.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Common Daisy?
Gardening Gloves

Necessary for keeping your hands clean and safe from injury while working with soil and plants.
Trowel

This small gardening tool is ideal for digging into the soil to make the right hole size for transplanting common daisy.
Gardening Shovel

Used to lift the plant from its original pot or ground spot while keeping the root ball intact.
Watering Can

Essential tool to water the plant both before and after transplanting.
Mulch

Used to cover the soil after transplanting to retain moisture and reduce the growth of weed.
How Do You Remove Common Daisy from the Soil?
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear the selected site of any weeds or stones, and loosen the soil with a rake or trowel. Ensure the spot you pick is adequate for common daisy's size and growth habit.
Step2 Digging Hole
Use a trowel to dig a hole. The hole should be twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the common daisy.
Step3 Planting
Place the common daisy in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface. Refill around the plant with soil, firming gently.
Step4 Watering
Water thoroughly using a watering can. The goal is to moisten the freshly dug soil around the root ball and help the plant get established.
Step5 Mulching
Spread mulch around the base of the plant to stave off the growth of weeds and keep the soil moist.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Common Daisy
Step1 Site Preparation

Clear the selected site of any weeds or stones, and loosen the soil with a rake or trowel. Ensure the spot you pick is adequate for common daisy's size and growth habit.
Step2 Digging Hole

Use a trowel to dig a hole. The hole should be twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the common daisy.
Step3 Planting

Place the common daisy in the hole with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface. Refill around the plant with soil, firming gently.
Step4 Watering

Water thoroughly using a watering can. The goal is to moisten the freshly dug soil around the root ball and help the plant get established.
Step5 Mulching

Spread mulch around the base of the plant to stave off the growth of weeds and keep the soil moist.
How Do You Care For Common Daisy After Transplanting?
Watering

It's important to keep the common daisy adequately watered, especially in the first few weeks after transplanting. A good soak once a week should be enough unless weather conditions are particularly dry or hot.
Weeding

Regularly check around the common daisy for weeds and remove any that you find to prevent them from depriving your plant of nutrients it needs to establish itself in the new location.
Inspect for Pests or Disease

Check your common daisy regularly for signs of pest activity or disease. Early detection can make treatment much easier and more effective.
Pruning

Deadhead the common daisy flowers as they fade to encourage more blooms. Light trimming can help the plant to maintain its shape and vigor.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Common Daisy Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant common daisy?

Early to mid-Spring or mid-Fall are the most ideal periods to transplant common daisy. This is usually when the soil conditions and temperatures are perfect for this procedure.
How much space should I leave between common daisy plants during transplanting?

Ensure to spread common daisy plants around 4-8 inches (10-20 cm) apart. This is vital as it allows room for the roots to establish and grow effectively.
Why are my transplanted common daisy wilting?

Common daisy may wilt due to transplant shock. Keep the soil consistently moist, avoid too much sunlight, and ensure the plant's roots are well established in its new location.
My transplanted common daisy is turning yellow, what should I do?

Yellowing leaves often indicate over-watering. Ensure the soil is well-drained, only water when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry, and avoid soggy conditions.
Can I transplant common daisy in the summer?

Although common daisy is hardy, transplanting in the summer subjects it to heat stress. The early to mid-spring and mid-fall periods are your best bets.
What depth should I transplant common daisy in the soil?

Common daisy should be transplanted at the same depth it was originally growing. Typically, this would involve covering the roots up to the base of the stem.
What type of soil is best for transplanting common daisy?

Common daisy prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Amend heavy clay or sandy soils with compost to provide the ideal ground for growth.
How should I water common daisy after transplanting?

Water common daisy thoroughly after transplanting. Then, maintain a regular watering schedule, making sure the soil stays consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Should I fertilize common daisy after transplanting?

Yes, add a balanced, slow-release fertilizer at the time of planting to support common daisy's growth. However, be careful not to over-fertilize, as it could burn the roots.
How much sunlight does transplanted common daisy need?

Common daisy loves full sun but will tolerate partial shade as well. Ensure it gets at least 4-6 hours of sunlight daily for best results.

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