Not only does the Peppers have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Peppers is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Peppers. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Peppers grows is sufficiently moist.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care Peppers
The peppers is commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from peppers plants.

Symbolism
Enthusiasm, healing, cleansing, desire

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun





Plant Diagnosis
Diagnose and revive your plant. 10,000,000+ plants helped
Reminders
A custom schedule to meet your plants’ needs
Light Meter
Find the best growing location for your plant baby
Plant Finder
Find plants that are right for your skill level, site, lighting, etc

Basic Care Guide

Water
Peppers has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. this way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Peppers requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.
Water
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google



Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Peppers?
Read More

Free
What should I do if I water my Peppers too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Peppers and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Peppers is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
Read More


How often should I water my Peppers?
Overall, Peppers requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Peppers about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Peppers have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
Read More


How much water does my Peppers need?
Since Peppers are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Peppers should receive. Generally, Peppers will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
Read More


How can I tell if i'm watering my Peppers enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Peppers, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Peppers is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
Read More


How should I water my Peppers through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Peppers's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Peppers about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Peppers has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Peppers will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Peppers from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Peppers will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Peppers will decline significantly.
Read More


What's the difference between watering Peppers indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Peppers indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Peppers that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Peppers that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Peppers healthy.
Read More





Fertilizer
Peppers likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, peppers needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.
Fertilizer
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Why do I need to fertilize my Peppers?
You may or may not need to fertilize your Peppers, depending on the soil conditions in your garden. If you are able to get a good harvest from your Peppers crop, that is a good indication that fertilizer isn't necessary. However, the best way to determine whether or not you need to fertilize is by having the soil tested. You can test soil yourself using a kit, or you can send the soil out to a lab to be analyzed. Once you have an understanding of the nutrient levels in your soil, it will be easier to determine whether or not additional fertilizer is required.
Read More

Free
When is the best time to fertilize my Peppers?
Mix a layer of organic fertilizer into the soil at least a week prior to planting, and use another dressing on top of the soil during the spring to provide an extra boost to young plants. In most cases, just one to two applications of fertilizer during a growing season should be sufficient for a good harvest of Peppers.
Read More


When should I avoid fertilizing my Peppers?
Fertilizing a Peppers after the majority of the vegetables have been harvested will be a waste of your fertilizer and your energy, since this crop needs to be replanted every year. Also avoid fertilizing Peppers if you are already gardening in a location that has nutrient-rich soil. Since Peppers does not require a lot of fertilizer to grow well and yield plenty of vegetables with good size and flavor, there is no need to fertilize in many cases. Only fertilize your Peppers if your soil test indicates that one or more nutrients is lacking in your garden soil.
Read More


What type of fertilizer does my Peppers need?
The best option for Peppers is a natural organic fertilizer, but slow-release granular fertilizers also work well. A low-nitrogen fertilizer is best, since too much nitrogen can cause excessive foliage production that takes away from the plant's ability to produce strong root vegetables. Use a formula with lower nitrogen such as 5-10-10 to make sure that the plant develops a good harvest.
Organic mulch is also recommended for growing healthy Peppers. A layer of mulch made from leaves, straw, grass clippings, or other organic matter helps phosphorus to prevent weeds, keep the soil moist, regulate soil temperature, and release a slow but steady supply of nutrients into the soil as the mulch breaks down.
Read More


How do I fertilize my Peppers?
Spread organic fertilizer such as manure or compost in a thick layer across the bed prior to planting, then mix or till the amendment into the soil. Additional organic fertilizer can be added on top of the soil after planting, in a layer about two to four inches thick. After adding any type of fertilizer, be sure to water thoroughly. When using chemical fertilizers, be sure to follow all manufacturer's directions to achieve the best results and avoid adding too much fertilizer to the garden. All types of fertilizer should be applied to the soil around the plant but not in contact with the plant itself, since contact with fertilizer can burn the plant's tissues.
Read More


What happens if I fertilize my Peppers too much?
The most typical scenario that occurs when Peppers is overfertilized is that the plant receives too much nitrogen, which is out of balance with other nutrients. Peppers is grown for its roots and not for its leaves, but nitrogen mainly supports the healthy development of foliage. For that reason, giving a Peppers plant too much nitrogen can cause it to develop a lot of foliage at the expense of the tubers that gardeners want. Phosporus is the nutrient that helps to promote root development, so it is important that Peppers be given plenty of phosphorus in addition to other required nutrients in order to yield plenty of vegetables.
Read More





Sunlight
Peppers likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.


Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much sunlight does Peppers need to grow?
Exact needs vary, but a minimum of 6 to 8 hours per day is a good rule of thumb for Peppers to grow and produce fruit.
Read More

Free
What type of sunlight does Peppers need?
Peppers requires full sun, meaning that it should be grown in a location that gets direct sunlight that isn’t blocked by obstacles such as trees, fences, or buildings. In general, the faster the plant grows, the more hours of sunlight it will need. Morning sun is best for photosynthesis.
Read More


Should I protect Peppers from sun exposure?
Peppers should not need to be protected from the sun in most climates. Those who live in a desert or near the equator may find that the sun is too harsh for the types of plants they want to grow, but this is the exception.
Read More


What will happen if Peppers doesn't get enough sunlight?
All plants need sunlight to convert into energy. Plants that have a short growing season need even more light and energy than those that grow slowly, as they need to complete all their processes to grow and produce fruit within just a few months.
The first symptoms of insufficient sunlight in Peppers are pale and yellow leaves that are not able to generate enough chlorophyll to keep their healthy green color. The leaves may eventually fall off, and new growth is small and weak. The plant may become leggy and sparse as it stretches toward the available light.
Finally, without enough light the plant will not be able to produce large, high-quality edible leaves or fruit. Peppers needs to devote a lot of energy into growing leaves and fruits, so if there isn’t enough light available for it to convert, the harvest will suffer.
Read More


What will happen if Peppers gets too much sunlight?
Peppers can get sunburned from intense sunlight, especially when coupled with high temperatures and not having enough water. Afternoon sun tends to be most likely to burn plants. Scalded leaves develop faded patches of light brown to white on the areas at the top of the plant that are exposed to the most sun. They are especially vulnerable to this right after being transplanted from a shadier location to being in full sun. Transitioning plants gradually or providing them with a barrier while they are adjusting can help prevent sunscald in young plants.
In many cases, Peppers develops leaves that are large enough to protect fruits from the strongest rays of the sun. However, if intense sunlight is in contact with fruits, they can also be damaged. Avoid over-pruning those protective leaves so that the fruits don’t get burned.
Read More


Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Peppers?
Peppers may become unbalanced if it gets significantly more light on one side than the other. Ideally, you can plant your Peppers in a location away from obstacles that might block light, and where the distribution of sunlight is even on all sides.
Be careful about planting tall species next to those that grow closer to the ground. It may not be obvious when the crops are first planted, but over time the taller plants may begin to block the amount of sunlight that can reach the shorter plants.
Morning sun helps to dry dew and precipitation, which helps prevent infection from diseases that can develop when water sits on the plant. If you are watering or irrigating your Peppers, this should be done in the morning.
Read More





Pruning
Peppers is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.

Is pruning necessary for my Peppers?
Peppers can often survive just fine with minimal pruning that removes dead, damaged, and diseased branches and stems. However, there are other, more involved forms of pruning that will allow your Peppers to not only survive but thrive and be as productive as possible. This style of pruning, involves pruning both before and after this plant's bloom period and will help your Peppers start the fruit development process, and also helps those fruits mature more efficiently once they appear on the plant. During the early parts of the season, you should perform structural pruning to help your Peppers develop with a strong structure that is well-capable of supporting fruits. After the bloom period, when the fruits begin to set, you should remove all but the fruit-bearing stems of this plat. Following this pruning method is what you should do if you want to receive the best pepper harvest from your Peppers.
Read More

Free
When is the best time to prune my Peppers?
There are two times of year when you should prune your Peppers, to encourage better health and fruit production. The first pruning period occurs just after the bloom time. At this time, you should use our pruning cuts to remove smaller stems that do not contribute to the plant’s main structure or compete too closely with other stronger stems. Your Peppers should also be at least a foot tall before you perform this pruning. The second pruning time comes later in the season after the fruits have appeared on the plant but before they are fully mature. For this second pruning, you should focus on removing any non-fruit-bearing stem, to focus all growing energy on stems that do hold fruits.
Read More


How can I prune my Peppers?
Peppers tends to be relatively delicate plants compared to other fruit-bearing species. As such, you should use caution when you prune, lest you cause unintended damage to otherwise healthy stems. The best tool to use to prune your Peppers is a pair of clean and sharp hand-held pruning shears. Whether you are performing early-season, or late season pruning, you should follow each stem you intend to remove back to where it meets a larger stem or the main stem. Make your pruning cut as close to the larger stem as you can, to remove the smaller stem entirely and prevent it from regrowing. During the early part of the season, you should use your pruning cuts to create the strongest form for your Peppers. Removing stems that do not contribute to the plant's main structure, or any leaves that appear wilted, will make your Peppers better-suited to supporting heavy fruits later in the season. The second form of pruning should occur after the bloom period when the fruit development process is just beginning. At this time, you should cut off any flowers or excess leaves as well as any stems that do not hold fruits. This type of pruning gives your Peppers the chance to focus all of its energy towards fruit development.
Read More


What should I do after pruning my Peppers?
After you perform the frist main pruning of the season, in which you should remove most or all of the nonessential stems, you should water and fertilize your plant to help it recover from your pruning cuts and put forth new growth more quickly. Following the second main pruning of the season, you should allow the fruits on your Peppers to fully mature. Fertilization can also be helpful following this pruning, as many of the leaves you remove will hold stored growth energy. A feeding of fertilizer can more than make up for removing that energy store, and will help yoru plant direct energy towards fruit development rather than sustaining leaves. Once the peppers are fully mature, you can harvest them and use them as you please in your kitchen. After harvest, your Peppers will have reached the end of its life cycle. With that being the case, you are not free to cut down your Peppers at its base. This will remove the entirety of your Peppers’s above ground structure, which will wither and die as the cold weather approaches. Clearing out your Peppers also cleans your garden bed and gives you the opportunity to plant something else in its place.
Read More


How can I prune my Peppers during different seasons?
You should plant your Peppers seeds during the late winter. During this season, and most of the early spring, your plant will be in a seedling stage and won’t need much, if any pruning. During spring, before the blooms have arrived, you can perform your first main pruning that should emphasize a stong form and remove any unnecessary stems from your Peppers. After that, you won’t need to do much pruning throughout the rest of spring, except to remove damaged stems and leaves. Your second main pruning will take place after the bloom period while the plant is developing its fruits. Peppers take about 60 to 120 days to grow from seed to a harvest-able form regularly, rather than offer fruits in the same month every year, meaning that you'll need to observe your plant's growth phase to determine when to perform the second pruning of the year.
Read More


How can I prune my Peppers through different growth stages?
While Peppers is a perennial species, when they live in their native growing range, but many gardeners will need to grow these plants as annuals, if their regional climate includes cold winter temperatures, which Peppers cannot survive. That means that your Peppers will likely complete its life cycle in a single growing season. During the spring, at the beginning of this life cycle, you should focus on creating the ideal fruit-bearing form with your pruning efforts. Once your plant matures and reaches a fruit-bearing stage, your sole goal is to support those fruits by encouraging the plant to devote the majority of its growing energy towards stems that hold fruits. At this point, all non-fruit-bearing stems are of little value. Following the harvest, your Peppers will finish its life cycle and require no further pruning.
Read More


Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Peppers?
Pruning Peppers is a relatively straightforward task, but there are a few tips that will help you meet success. First, you should always use sears that are sharp and sterile, which helps you make clean cuts and reduce the spread of disease. During your pruning that takes place after the bloom period, you may need to remove flowers and fruits that are small or stunted compared to others on the plant, as this will direct energy towards the most viable and worthwhile peppers that grow on your plant. You should also pay attention to how you remove the peppers during harvest time. Often, it is best to use your pruning shears again for this job and make a clean cut right where the stem of the fruit meets the rest of the plant.
Read More





Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Peppers enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Peppers has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.

What is the optimal temperature for Peppers?
There is an ideal temperature range that makes Peppers feel at home. Under these temperature conditions, it's unlikely that you’ll have any issues with cold or hot damage to the foliage, but changing leaf colors can absolutely be a sign that Peppers isn’t happy. Try to keep your Peppers well within its preferred range of 70-85℉(21-30℃), but don’t panic if the temperature creeps up past 85℉(30℃) during the day or down to 70℉(21℃) at night.
Read More

Free
How can I protect Peppers from extreme temperatures outdoors?
If your Peppers happens to be planted outside, then there’s not much you can do to try to move it indoors. However, you can certainly provide cover in ways that will help it survive any extreme temperatures that may arise unexpectedly. For instance, you can always use a few stakes and some cloth to put together a shade tent that will block out much of the sun’s intense heat from direct sunlight exposure.
Similarly, Peppers can be protected from the extreme cold and especially chilly winds by building a small greenhouse around the plant, which will create a greenhouse effect and warm the plant up. This can be done using garden stakes and any sort of clear or translucent plastic you may have around; if you have greenhouse plastic such as polycarbonate laying around, this works perfectly. Remove the greenhouse once temperatures warm up to 40℉(10℃) at night.
Read More


Does Peppers need different temperatures in different seasons?
Generally speaking, Peppers needs to stay within its preferred temperature range all year long. However, that doesn’t mean that care should stay the same all year long. During the warmest months of the year, Peppers will need a little extra shade and a bit more of a breeze to help it cope with the hottest days. On the other hand, it may need to be moved away from chilly windows and doors during the cooler months in climates where temperatures drop below 40℉(10℃) at any point in the year.
Read More


What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Peppers?
Keeping your Peppers at the right temperature can be fairly simple. Depending on where you grow it, Peppers can be fairly easy to accommodate. For indoor growing, you can easily move the plant to different locations within your indoor space that best meet its temperature requirements. Avoid placing it near air conditioning vents, heaters, doors that open frequently, or drafty windows.
It is a little more difficult to control the temperature around your Peppers if it’s grown outside. Of course, if it’s planted in a pot, you can simply bring it indoors when the temperatures outside get too hot or too cold for Peppers, but otherwise, you may need to take different measures to protect it from extreme heat or cold that may damage it irreversibly. Try placing Peppers under cover to protect from both the harsh sun that can overheat it and any cold wind that could be potentially deadly for your plant.
Read More





Soil
Peppers requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. this means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Peppers generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.
Propagation
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Seeds of peppers should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. this is because the seeds of peppers require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep peppers warm.

After fruiting, peppers can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Peppers’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
During the seedling stage, peppers requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; peppers is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.


Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Peppers based on 10 million real cases



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google


Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.

Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.

Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.

Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...

Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up

Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google

More About Peppers

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial

Spread
15 to 30 cm

Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer

Flower Color
White

Leaf Color
Green
Purple

Flower Size
1 to 2 cm

Plant Height
20 to 100 cm
Name story
Cayenne pepper
Perhaps a common thing that comes to mind when hearing "Cayenne" is a luxury car, but the Cayenne pepper that is often mentioned in conversations is not the pepper of luxury car brands. The "Cayenne" mentioned here comes from its origin, the Cayenne region of French Guiana.
Red pepper||Green pepper||Bell pepper||Chili pepper
Capsicum annuum can be called different names, generally based on its taste and size. Larger and sweeter peppers are called red peppers, green peppers or bell peppers, while smaller and hotter peppers are called chili peppers.
Usages
Garden Use
The many cultivars of peppers are commonly grown by veggie gardeners as annuals in warmer climates to use in their home kitchens and add a bit of color to their garden. However, peppers plants are sometimes planted in their own area in vegetable gardens, as it can easily outcompete other plants with its prolific seeds; but herbs and other veggies like tomatoes can be solid companions.

Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.

Common Problems
Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?


There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.
Why are the blossom-ends of my peppers rotten?


this problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.
Why are the peppers deformed?


Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, peppers infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.
Why are the fruits so small?


this is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by peppers, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with peppers should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.
Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?


this is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. this can effectively prevent flowers from falling.


Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to care Peppers
The peppers is commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from peppers plants.

Symbolism
Enthusiasm, healing, cleansing, desire

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Peppers has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. this way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Peppers requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.

Water
Show More

Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up


Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Peppers?

Free
What should I do if I water my Peppers too much or too little?


How often should I water my Peppers?


How much water does my Peppers need?


Show More


Fertilizer

Peppers likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, peppers needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.

Fertilizer
Show More

Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up

Why do I need to fertilize my Peppers?

Free
When is the best time to fertilize my Peppers?


When should I avoid fertilizing my Peppers?


What type of fertilizer does my Peppers need?


Show More


Sunlight

Peppers likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.

Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much sunlight does Peppers need to grow?

Free
What type of sunlight does Peppers need?


Should I protect Peppers from sun exposure?


What will happen if Peppers doesn't get enough sunlight?


Show More


Pruning

Peppers is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.
Is pruning necessary for my Peppers?

Free
When is the best time to prune my Peppers?


How can I prune my Peppers?


What should I do after pruning my Peppers?


Show More


Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Peppers enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Peppers has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.
What is the optimal temperature for Peppers?

Free
How can I protect Peppers from extreme temperatures outdoors?


Does Peppers need different temperatures in different seasons?


What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Peppers?


Show More


Soil

Peppers requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. this means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Peppers generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.

Propagation
Show More

Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up


Seeds of peppers should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. this is because the seeds of peppers require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep peppers warm.

After fruiting, peppers can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Peppers’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
During the seedling stage, peppers requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; peppers is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Peppers based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Leaf deformity



Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Underwatering



Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More

Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More

Fruit rot



Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More


Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up




Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up




Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up




Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up




Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up




Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.

Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.

Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.

Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up


More About Peppers

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial

Spread
15 to 30 cm

Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer

Flower Color
White

Leaf Color
Green
Purple

Flower Size
1 to 2 cm

Plant Height
20 to 100 cm
Name story
Cayenne pepper
Perhaps a common thing that comes to mind when hearing "Cayenne" is a luxury car, but the Cayenne pepper that is often mentioned in conversations is not the pepper of luxury car brands. The "Cayenne" mentioned here comes from its origin, the Cayenne region of French Guiana.
Red pepper||Green pepper||Bell pepper||Chili pepper
Capsicum annuum can be called different names, generally based on its taste and size. Larger and sweeter peppers are called red peppers, green peppers or bell peppers, while smaller and hotter peppers are called chili peppers.
Usages
Garden Use
The many cultivars of peppers are commonly grown by veggie gardeners as annuals in warmer climates to use in their home kitchens and add a bit of color to their garden. However, peppers plants are sometimes planted in their own area in vegetable gardens, as it can easily outcompete other plants with its prolific seeds; but herbs and other veggies like tomatoes can be solid companions.

Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.

Common Problems
Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?


There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.
Why are the blossom-ends of my peppers rotten?


this problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.
Why are the peppers deformed?


Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, peppers infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.
Why are the fruits so small?


this is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by peppers, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with peppers should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.
Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?


this is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. this can effectively prevent flowers from falling.


Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!

17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied

Nearly 5 years of research

80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up



Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
