Not only does the Aji peanut pepper have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Aji peanut pepper is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Aji peanut pepper. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Aji peanut pepper grows is sufficiently moist.


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Basic Care


Advanced Care


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FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Aji Peanut Pepper
Aji peanut pepper (Capsicum baccatum) is a plant species that is one of five domesticated peppers. Aji peanut pepper is edible and considered very spicy. This species is widely used in Peruvian cuisine and Bolivian cuisine.

Symbolism
Satirical Thoughts

Water
Every week


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
Aji peanut pepper has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. this way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Aji peanut pepper requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.


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What is the best way to water my Aji peanut pepper?
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What should I do if I water my Aji peanut pepper too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Aji peanut pepper and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Aji peanut pepper is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
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How often should I water my Aji peanut pepper?
Overall, Aji peanut pepper requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Aji peanut pepper about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Aji peanut pepper have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
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How much water does my Aji peanut pepper need?
Since Aji peanut pepper are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Aji peanut pepper should receive. Generally, Aji peanut pepper will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Aji peanut pepper enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Aji peanut pepper, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Aji peanut pepper is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
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How should I water my Aji peanut pepper through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Aji peanut pepper's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Aji peanut pepper about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Aji peanut pepper has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Aji peanut pepper will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Aji peanut pepper from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Aji peanut pepper will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Aji peanut pepper will decline significantly.
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What's the difference between watering Aji peanut pepper indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Aji peanut pepper indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Aji peanut pepper that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Aji peanut pepper that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Aji peanut pepper healthy.
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Fertilizer
Aji peanut pepper likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, aji peanut pepper needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Aji peanut pepper?
You may or may not need to fertilize your Aji peanut pepper, depending on the soil conditions in your garden. If you are able to get a good harvest from your Aji peanut pepper crop, that is a good indication that fertilizer isn't necessary. However, the best way to determine whether or not you need to fertilize is by having the soil tested. You can test soil yourself using a kit, or you can send the soil out to a lab to be analyzed. Once you have an understanding of the nutrient levels in your soil, it will be easier to determine whether or not additional fertilizer is required.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Aji peanut pepper?
Mix a layer of organic fertilizer into the soil at least a week prior to planting, and use another dressing on top of the soil during the spring to provide an extra boost to young plants. In most cases, just one to two applications of fertilizer during a growing season should be sufficient for a good harvest of Aji peanut pepper.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Aji peanut pepper?
Fertilizing a Aji peanut pepper after the majority of the vegetables have been harvested will be a waste of your fertilizer and your energy, since this crop needs to be replanted every year. Also avoid fertilizing Aji peanut pepper if you are already gardening in a location that has nutrient-rich soil. Since Aji peanut pepper does not require a lot of fertilizer to grow well and yield plenty of vegetables with good size and flavor, there is no need to fertilize in many cases. Only fertilize your Aji peanut pepper if your soil test indicates that one or more nutrients is lacking in your garden soil.
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What type of fertilizer does my Aji peanut pepper need?
The best option for Aji peanut pepper is a natural organic fertilizer, but slow-release granular fertilizers also work well. A low-nitrogen fertilizer is best, since too much nitrogen can cause excessive foliage production that takes away from the plant's ability to produce strong root vegetables. Use a formula with lower nitrogen such as 5-10-10 to make sure that the plant develops a good harvest.
Organic mulch is also recommended for growing healthy Aji peanut pepper. A layer of mulch made from leaves, straw, grass clippings, or other organic matter helps phosphorus to prevent weeds, keep the soil moist, regulate soil temperature, and release a slow but steady supply of nutrients into the soil as the mulch breaks down.
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How do I fertilize my Aji peanut pepper?
Spread organic fertilizer such as manure or compost in a thick layer across the bed prior to planting, then mix or till the amendment into the soil. Additional organic fertilizer can be added on top of the soil after planting, in a layer about two to four inches thick. After adding any type of fertilizer, be sure to water thoroughly. When using chemical fertilizers, be sure to follow all manufacturer's directions to achieve the best results and avoid adding too much fertilizer to the garden. All types of fertilizer should be applied to the soil around the plant but not in contact with the plant itself, since contact with fertilizer can burn the plant's tissues.
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What happens if I fertilize my Aji peanut pepper too much?
The most typical scenario that occurs when Aji peanut pepper is overfertilized is that the plant receives too much nitrogen, which is out of balance with other nutrients. Aji peanut pepper is grown for its roots and not for its leaves, but nitrogen mainly supports the healthy development of foliage. For that reason, giving a Aji peanut pepper plant too much nitrogen can cause it to develop a lot of foliage at the expense of the tubers that gardeners want. Phosporus is the nutrient that helps to promote root development, so it is important that Aji peanut pepper be given plenty of phosphorus in addition to other required nutrients in order to yield plenty of vegetables.
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Sunlight
Aji peanut pepper likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.


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How much sunlight does Aji peanut pepper need to grow?
Exact needs vary, but a minimum of 6 to 8 hours per day is a good rule of thumb for Aji peanut pepper to grow and produce fruit.
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What type of sunlight does Aji peanut pepper need?
Aji peanut pepper requires full sun, meaning that it should be grown in a location that gets direct sunlight that isn’t blocked by obstacles such as trees, fences, or buildings. In general, the faster the plant grows, the more hours of sunlight it will need. Morning sun is best for photosynthesis.
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Should I protect Aji peanut pepper from sun exposure?
Aji peanut pepper should not need to be protected from the sun in most climates. Those who live in a desert or near the equator may find that the sun is too harsh for the types of plants they want to grow, but this is the exception.
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What will happen if Aji peanut pepper doesn't get enough sunlight?
All plants need sunlight to convert into energy. Plants that have a short growing season need even more light and energy than those that grow slowly, as they need to complete all their processes to grow and produce fruit within just a few months.
The first symptoms of insufficient sunlight in Aji peanut pepper are pale and yellow leaves that are not able to generate enough chlorophyll to keep their healthy green color. The leaves may eventually fall off, and new growth is small and weak. The plant may become leggy and sparse as it stretches toward the available light.
Finally, without enough light the plant will not be able to produce large, high-quality edible leaves or fruit. Aji peanut pepper needs to devote a lot of energy into growing leaves and fruits, so if there isn’t enough light available for it to convert, the harvest will suffer.
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What will happen if Aji peanut pepper gets too much sunlight?
Aji peanut pepper can get sunburned from intense sunlight, especially when coupled with high temperatures and not having enough water. Afternoon sun tends to be most likely to burn plants. Scalded leaves develop faded patches of light brown to white on the areas at the top of the plant that are exposed to the most sun. They are especially vulnerable to this right after being transplanted from a shadier location to being in full sun. Transitioning plants gradually or providing them with a barrier while they are adjusting can help prevent sunscald in young plants.
In many cases, Aji peanut pepper develops leaves that are large enough to protect fruits from the strongest rays of the sun. However, if intense sunlight is in contact with fruits, they can also be damaged. Avoid over-pruning those protective leaves so that the fruits don’t get burned.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Aji peanut pepper?
Aji peanut pepper may become unbalanced if it gets significantly more light on one side than the other. Ideally, you can plant your Aji peanut pepper in a location away from obstacles that might block light, and where the distribution of sunlight is even on all sides.
Be careful about planting tall species next to those that grow closer to the ground. It may not be obvious when the crops are first planted, but over time the taller plants may begin to block the amount of sunlight that can reach the shorter plants.
Morning sun helps to dry dew and precipitation, which helps prevent infection from diseases that can develop when water sits on the plant. If you are watering or irrigating your Aji peanut pepper, this should be done in the morning.
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Pruning
Aji peanut pepper is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.

Is pruning necessary for my Aji peanut pepper?
Aji peanut pepper can often survive just fine with minimal pruning that removes dead, damaged, and diseased branches and stems. However, there are other, more involved forms of pruning that will allow your Aji peanut pepper to not only survive but thrive and be as productive as possible. This style of pruning, involves pruning both before and after this plant's bloom period and will help your Aji peanut pepper start the fruit development process, and also helps those fruits mature more efficiently once they appear on the plant. During the early parts of the season, you should perform structural pruning to help your Aji peanut pepper develop with a strong structure that is well-capable of supporting fruits. After the bloom period, when the fruits begin to set, you should remove all but the fruit-bearing stems of this plat. Following this pruning method is what you should do if you want to receive the best pepper harvest from your Aji peanut pepper.
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When is the best time to prune my Aji peanut pepper?
There are two times of year when you should prune your Aji peanut pepper, to encourage better health and fruit production. The first pruning period occurs just after the bloom time. At this time, you should use our pruning cuts to remove smaller stems that do not contribute to the plant’s main structure or compete too closely with other stronger stems. Your Aji peanut pepper should also be at least a foot tall before you perform this pruning. The second pruning time comes later in the season after the fruits have appeared on the plant but before they are fully mature. For this second pruning, you should focus on removing any non-fruit-bearing stem, to focus all growing energy on stems that do hold fruits.
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How can I prune my Aji peanut pepper?
Aji peanut pepper tends to be relatively delicate plants compared to other fruit-bearing species. As such, you should use caution when you prune, lest you cause unintended damage to otherwise healthy stems. The best tool to use to prune your Aji peanut pepper is a pair of clean and sharp hand-held pruning shears. Whether you are performing early-season, or late season pruning, you should follow each stem you intend to remove back to where it meets a larger stem or the main stem. Make your pruning cut as close to the larger stem as you can, to remove the smaller stem entirely and prevent it from regrowing. During the early part of the season, you should use your pruning cuts to create the strongest form for your Aji peanut pepper. Removing stems that do not contribute to the plant's main structure, or any leaves that appear wilted, will make your Aji peanut pepper better-suited to supporting heavy fruits later in the season. The second form of pruning should occur after the bloom period when the fruit development process is just beginning. At this time, you should cut off any flowers or excess leaves as well as any stems that do not hold fruits. This type of pruning gives your Aji peanut pepper the chance to focus all of its energy towards fruit development.
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What should I do after pruning my Aji peanut pepper?
After you perform the frist main pruning of the season, in which you should remove most or all of the nonessential stems, you should water and fertilize your plant to help it recover from your pruning cuts and put forth new growth more quickly. Following the second main pruning of the season, you should allow the fruits on your Aji peanut pepper to fully mature. Fertilization can also be helpful following this pruning, as many of the leaves you remove will hold stored growth energy. A feeding of fertilizer can more than make up for removing that energy store, and will help yoru plant direct energy towards fruit development rather than sustaining leaves. Once the peppers are fully mature, you can harvest them and use them as you please in your kitchen. After harvest, your Aji peanut pepper will have reached the end of its life cycle. With that being the case, you are not free to cut down your Aji peanut pepper at its base. This will remove the entirety of your Aji peanut pepper’s above ground structure, which will wither and die as the cold weather approaches. Clearing out your Aji peanut pepper also cleans your garden bed and gives you the opportunity to plant something else in its place.
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How can I prune my Aji peanut pepper during different seasons?
You should plant your Aji peanut pepper seeds during the late winter. During this season, and most of the early spring, your plant will be in a seedling stage and won’t need much, if any pruning. During spring, before the blooms have arrived, you can perform your first main pruning that should emphasize a stong form and remove any unnecessary stems from your Aji peanut pepper. After that, you won’t need to do much pruning throughout the rest of spring, except to remove damaged stems and leaves. Your second main pruning will take place after the bloom period while the plant is developing its fruits. Aji peanut pepper take about 60 to 120 days to grow from seed to a harvest-able form regularly, rather than offer fruits in the same month every year, meaning that you'll need to observe your plant's growth phase to determine when to perform the second pruning of the year.
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How can I prune my Aji peanut pepper through different growth stages?
While Aji peanut pepper is a perennial species, when they live in their native growing range, but many gardeners will need to grow these plants as annuals, if their regional climate includes cold winter temperatures, which Aji peanut pepper cannot survive. That means that your Aji peanut pepper will likely complete its life cycle in a single growing season. During the spring, at the beginning of this life cycle, you should focus on creating the ideal fruit-bearing form with your pruning efforts. Once your plant matures and reaches a fruit-bearing stage, your sole goal is to support those fruits by encouraging the plant to devote the majority of its growing energy towards stems that hold fruits. At this point, all non-fruit-bearing stems are of little value. Following the harvest, your Aji peanut pepper will finish its life cycle and require no further pruning.
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Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Aji peanut pepper?
Pruning Aji peanut pepper is a relatively straightforward task, but there are a few tips that will help you meet success. First, you should always use sears that are sharp and sterile, which helps you make clean cuts and reduce the spread of disease. During your pruning that takes place after the bloom period, you may need to remove flowers and fruits that are small or stunted compared to others on the plant, as this will direct energy towards the most viable and worthwhile peppers that grow on your plant. You should also pay attention to how you remove the peppers during harvest time. Often, it is best to use your pruning shears again for this job and make a clean cut right where the stem of the fruit meets the rest of the plant.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Aji peanut pepper enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Aji peanut pepper has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.

What is the optimal temperature for Aji peanut pepper?
There is an ideal temperature range that makes Aji peanut pepper feel at home. Under these temperature conditions, it's unlikely that you’ll have any issues with cold or hot damage to the foliage, but changing leaf colors can absolutely be a sign that Aji peanut pepper isn’t happy. Try to keep your Aji peanut pepper well within its preferred range of 70-85℉(21-30℃), but don’t panic if the temperature creeps up past 85℉(30℃) during the day or down to 70℉(21℃) at night.
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How can I protect Aji peanut pepper from extreme temperatures outdoors?
If your Aji peanut pepper happens to be planted outside, then there’s not much you can do to try to move it indoors. However, you can certainly provide cover in ways that will help it survive any extreme temperatures that may arise unexpectedly. For instance, you can always use a few stakes and some cloth to put together a shade tent that will block out much of the sun’s intense heat from direct sunlight exposure.
Similarly, Aji peanut pepper can be protected from the extreme cold and especially chilly winds by building a small greenhouse around the plant, which will create a greenhouse effect and warm the plant up. This can be done using garden stakes and any sort of clear or translucent plastic you may have around; if you have greenhouse plastic such as polycarbonate laying around, this works perfectly. Remove the greenhouse once temperatures warm up to 40℉(10℃) at night.
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Does Aji peanut pepper need different temperatures in different seasons?
Generally speaking, Aji peanut pepper needs to stay within its preferred temperature range all year long. However, that doesn’t mean that care should stay the same all year long. During the warmest months of the year, Aji peanut pepper will need a little extra shade and a bit more of a breeze to help it cope with the hottest days. On the other hand, it may need to be moved away from chilly windows and doors during the cooler months in climates where temperatures drop below 40℉(10℃) at any point in the year.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Aji peanut pepper?
Keeping your Aji peanut pepper at the right temperature can be fairly simple. Depending on where you grow it, Aji peanut pepper can be fairly easy to accommodate. For indoor growing, you can easily move the plant to different locations within your indoor space that best meet its temperature requirements. Avoid placing it near air conditioning vents, heaters, doors that open frequently, or drafty windows.
It is a little more difficult to control the temperature around your Aji peanut pepper if it’s grown outside. Of course, if it’s planted in a pot, you can simply bring it indoors when the temperatures outside get too hot or too cold for Aji peanut pepper, but otherwise, you may need to take different measures to protect it from extreme heat or cold that may damage it irreversibly. Try placing Aji peanut pepper under cover to protect from both the harsh sun that can overheat it and any cold wind that could be potentially deadly for your plant.
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Soil
Aji peanut pepper requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. this means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Aji peanut pepper generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.
Propagation
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Seeds of aji peanut pepper should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. this is because the seeds of aji peanut pepper require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep aji peanut pepper warm.

After fruiting, aji peanut pepper can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Aji peanut pepper’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


More About How-Tos

Water
Every week
Aji peanut pepper originates from a warm environment, preferring consistent moisture. Water when the soil feels dry to touch, ensuring the roots remain hydrated without overwatering.
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Lighting
Full sun
Aji peanut pepper harbors a preference for abundant exposure to rays of the sun. The rays are essential for its health and optimal growth. Its place of origin set an environment flourishing in sunlit conditions which it thrives in. Too much or too little sun exposure could potentially hinder its growth and development.

Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Aji peanut pepper is a plant that thrives in temperatures ranging from 59 to 100 °F (15 to 38 ℃). Originally native to environments with moderate to high temperatures, aji peanut pepper has specific temperature preferences for optimal growth. As the seasons change, it may require temperature adjustments to mimic its native climate conditions.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
During the seedling stage, aji peanut pepper requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; aji peanut pepper is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Aji peanut pepper based on 10 million real cases



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.

Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.

Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.

Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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More About Aji Peanut Pepper

Plant Type
Herb

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
White
Green

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
8 to 9 mm

Plant Height
2 to 4.5 m
Name story
Aji peanut pepper
The name capsicum has two possible origins, either the Greek word for gulp (kapto) or the Latin word for a box (capsa). Baccatum means “like a berry.” The common name aji peanut pepper is due to its irregular shape that resembles a peanut shell.

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Common Problems
Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?


There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.
Why are the blossom-ends of my aji peanut pepper rotten?


this problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.
Why are the aji peanut pepper deformed?


Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, aji peanut pepper infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.
Why are the fruits so small?


this is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by aji peanut pepper, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with aji peanut pepper should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.
Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?


this is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. this can effectively prevent flowers from falling.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Herb

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Loam, Sandy loam
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.

2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2

Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Aji Peanut Pepper

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.

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Aji Peanut Pepper

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.


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How to Care for Aji Peanut Pepper
Aji peanut pepper (Capsicum baccatum) is a plant species that is one of five domesticated peppers. Aji peanut pepper is edible and considered very spicy. This species is widely used in Peruvian cuisine and Bolivian cuisine.

Symbolism
Satirical Thoughts

Every week
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Aji peanut pepper has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. this way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Aji peanut pepper requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.

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What is the best way to water my Aji peanut pepper?

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How often should I water my Aji peanut pepper?

How much water does my Aji peanut pepper need?

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Fertilizer

Aji peanut pepper likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, aji peanut pepper needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Aji peanut pepper?

When is the best time to fertilize my Aji peanut pepper?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Aji peanut pepper?

What type of fertilizer does my Aji peanut pepper need?

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Sunlight

Aji peanut pepper likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.

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How much sunlight does Aji peanut pepper need to grow?

What type of sunlight does Aji peanut pepper need?

Should I protect Aji peanut pepper from sun exposure?

What will happen if Aji peanut pepper doesn't get enough sunlight?

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Pruning

Aji peanut pepper is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.
Is pruning necessary for my Aji peanut pepper?

When is the best time to prune my Aji peanut pepper?

How can I prune my Aji peanut pepper?

What should I do after pruning my Aji peanut pepper?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Aji peanut pepper enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Aji peanut pepper has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.
What is the optimal temperature for Aji peanut pepper?

How can I protect Aji peanut pepper from extreme temperatures outdoors?

Does Aji peanut pepper need different temperatures in different seasons?

What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Aji peanut pepper?

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Soil

Aji peanut pepper requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. this means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Aji peanut pepper generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.

Propagation
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Seeds of aji peanut pepper should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. this is because the seeds of aji peanut pepper require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep aji peanut pepper warm.

After fruiting, aji peanut pepper can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Aji peanut pepper’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

More About How-Tos

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
During the seedling stage, aji peanut pepper requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; aji peanut pepper is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Aji peanut pepper based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Leaf deformity



Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Fruit rot



Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More


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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.

Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.

Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.

Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.

Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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More About Aji Peanut Pepper

Plant Type
Herb

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
White
Green

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
8 to 9 mm

Plant Height
2 to 4.5 m
Name story
Aji peanut pepper
The name capsicum has two possible origins, either the Greek word for gulp (kapto) or the Latin word for a box (capsa). Baccatum means “like a berry.” The common name aji peanut pepper is due to its irregular shape that resembles a peanut shell.

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Common Problems
Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?


There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.
Why are the blossom-ends of my aji peanut pepper rotten?


this problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.
Why are the aji peanut pepper deformed?


Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, aji peanut pepper infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.
Why are the fruits so small?


this is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by aji peanut pepper, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with aji peanut pepper should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.
Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?


this is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. this can effectively prevent flowers from falling.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Herb

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves





Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Loam, Sandy loam
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.

2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2

Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
Aji peanut pepper originates from a warm environment, preferring consistent moisture. Water when the soil feels dry to touch, ensuring the roots remain hydrated without overwatering.
Watering check today
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every week
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Aji peanut pepper, outdoor watering can be done using the method of sprinkling. It is a simple and direct approach. It involves pouring water onto the soil around the plant, allowing the water to naturally seep into the root zone. Typically, containers such as watering cans, buckets, or watering jugs are used for sprinkling. Depending on the size of the plant, usually, 1-2 gallons of water are required to ensure the soil around the roots is thoroughly moistened.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can potentially cause disease symptoms in Aji peanut pepper, even though it thrives in a moist soil environment. However, excessive watering leading to prolonged dampness or waterlogging can result in yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots

Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems

Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Aji peanut pepper is prone to experiencing plant health issues when lacking watering because it prefers a moist soil environment. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling

Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Yellowing leaves

The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Aji peanut pepper harbors a preference for abundant exposure to rays of the sun. The rays are essential for its health and optimal growth. Its place of origin set an environment flourishing in sunlit conditions which it thrives in. Too much or too little sun exposure could potentially hinder its growth and development.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Aji peanut pepper thrives in full sunlight and is commonly cultivated outdoors. When grown indoors with limited light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency that can easily go unnoticed.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your Aji peanut pepper may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Aji peanut pepper enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Aji peanut pepper thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
Aji peanut pepper is a plant that thrives in temperatures ranging from 59 to 100 °F (15 to 38 ℃). Originally native to environments with moderate to high temperatures, aji peanut pepper has specific temperature preferences for optimal growth. As the seasons change, it may require temperature adjustments to mimic its native climate conditions.

Regional wintering strategies
Aji peanut pepper prefers relatively warm temperatures, so maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter cultivation is beneficial for plant growth. The minimum temperature should be kept above freezing point to prevent the plant from freezing damage. When the outdoor temperature approaches -5°C (25°F) during winter, it is advisable to bring Aji peanut pepper indoors or provide protection by setting up a temporary greenhouse or using materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Aji peanut pepper has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may darken in color. In severe cases, water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping may occur, and the color of the leaves gradually turns brown.
Solutions
Trim away the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Aji peanut pepper should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth slows down, the color of its leaves becomes lighter, and it becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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