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How to Care for Tabasco Pepper

Although tabasco pepper, or Capsicum frutescens, grows wild in Central and South America, this type of pepper has been cultivated as a garden annual or short-lived perennial in other areas. There are also ornamental varieties of this species that are grown for the flashy colored fruit.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. This way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Tabasco pepper requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Tabasco pepper?
Not only does the Tabasco pepper have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Tabasco pepper is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Tabasco pepper. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Tabasco pepper grows is sufficiently moist.
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What should I do if I water my Tabasco pepper too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Tabasco pepper and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Tabasco pepper is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
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How often should I water my Tabasco pepper?
Overall, Tabasco pepper requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Tabasco pepper about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Tabasco pepper have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
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How much water does my Tabasco pepper need?
Since Tabasco pepper are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Tabasco pepper should receive. Generally, Tabasco pepper will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Tabasco pepper enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Tabasco pepper, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Tabasco pepper is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
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How should I water my Tabasco pepper through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Tabasco pepper's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Tabasco pepper about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Tabasco pepper has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Tabasco pepper will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Tabasco pepper from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Tabasco pepper will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Tabasco pepper will decline significantly.
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What's the difference between watering Tabasco pepper indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Tabasco pepper indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Tabasco pepper that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Tabasco pepper that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Tabasco pepper healthy.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, tabasco pepper needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.

Fertilizer

Tabasco pepper species can provide you with delicious fresh vegetables all summer long, which is why they are so popular with home gardeners. You may have heard that Tabasco pepper does best with a lot of fertilizer, but it can be difficult to determine just what that means, and how to best feed your garden.
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Tabasco pepper for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
Tabasco pepper is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Tabasco pepper requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Tabasco pepper, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Tabasco pepper needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Tabasco pepper without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Tabasco pepper, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Tabasco pepper is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Over-fertilizing Tabasco pepper can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Tabasco pepper. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Tabasco pepper to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure. Avoid giving Tabasco pepper a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Tabasco pepper when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Tabasco pepper?
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Tabasco pepper for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Tabasco pepper?
Tabasco pepper is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Tabasco pepper requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Tabasco pepper, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Tabasco pepper to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Tabasco pepper?
Avoid giving Tabasco pepper a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Tabasco pepper when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Tabasco pepper need?
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Tabasco pepper needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Tabasco pepper without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Tabasco pepper, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Tabasco pepper?
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Tabasco pepper is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Tabasco pepper too much?
Over-fertilizing Tabasco pepper can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Tabasco pepper. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Tabasco pepper need to grow?
Exact needs vary, but a minimum of 6 to 8 hours per day is a good rule of thumb for Tabasco pepper to grow and produce fruit.
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What type of sunlight does Tabasco pepper need?
Tabasco pepper requires full sun, meaning that it should be grown in a location that gets direct sunlight that isn’t blocked by obstacles such as trees, fences, or buildings. In general, the faster the plant grows, the more hours of sunlight it will need. Morning sun is best for photosynthesis.
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Should I protect Tabasco pepper from sun exposure?
Tabasco pepper should not need to be protected from the sun in most climates. Those who live in a desert or near the equator may find that the sun is too harsh for the types of plants they want to grow, but this is the exception.
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What will happen if Tabasco pepper doesn't get enough sunlight?
All plants need sunlight to convert into energy. Plants that have a short growing season need even more light and energy than those that grow slowly, as they need to complete all their processes to grow and produce fruit within just a few months.
The first symptoms of insufficient sunlight in Tabasco pepper are pale and yellow leaves that are not able to generate enough chlorophyll to keep their healthy green color. The leaves may eventually fall off, and new growth is small and weak. The plant may become leggy and sparse as it stretches toward the available light.
Finally, without enough light the plant will not be able to produce large, high-quality edible leaves or fruit. Tabasco pepper needs to devote a lot of energy into growing leaves and fruits, so if there isn’t enough light available for it to convert, the harvest will suffer.
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What will happen if Tabasco pepper gets too much sunlight?
Tabasco pepper can get sunburned from intense sunlight, especially when coupled with high temperatures and not having enough water. Afternoon sun tends to be most likely to burn plants. Scalded leaves develop faded patches of light brown to white on the areas at the top of the plant that are exposed to the most sun. They are especially vulnerable to this right after being transplanted from a shadier location to being in full sun. Transitioning plants gradually or providing them with a barrier while they are adjusting can help prevent sunscald in young plants.
In many cases, Tabasco pepper develops leaves that are large enough to protect fruits from the strongest rays of the sun. However, if intense sunlight is in contact with fruits, they can also be damaged. Avoid over-pruning those protective leaves so that the fruits don’t get burned.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Tabasco pepper?
Tabasco pepper may become unbalanced if it gets significantly more light on one side than the other. Ideally, you can plant your Tabasco pepper in a location away from obstacles that might block light, and where the distribution of sunlight is even on all sides.
Be careful about planting tall species next to those that grow closer to the ground. It may not be obvious when the crops are first planted, but over time the taller plants may begin to block the amount of sunlight that can reach the shorter plants.
Morning sun helps to dry dew and precipitation, which helps prevent infection from diseases that can develop when water sits on the plant. If you are watering or irrigating your Tabasco pepper, this should be done in the morning.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Tabasco pepper?
Tabasco pepper can often survive just fine with minimal pruning that removes dead, damaged, and diseased branches and stems. However, there are other, more involved forms of pruning that will allow your Tabasco pepper to not only survive but thrive and be as productive as possible. This style of pruning, involves pruning both before and after this plant's bloom period and will help your Tabasco pepper start the fruit development process, and also helps those fruits mature more efficiently once they appear on the plant. During the early parts of the season, you should perform structural pruning to help your Tabasco pepper develop with a strong structure that is well-capable of supporting fruits. After the bloom period, when the fruits begin to set, you should remove all but the fruit-bearing stems of this plat. Following this pruning method is what you should do if you want to receive the best pepper harvest from your Tabasco pepper.
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When is the best time to prune my Tabasco pepper?
There are two times of year when you should prune your Tabasco pepper, to encourage better health and fruit production. The first pruning period occurs just after the bloom time. At this time, you should use our pruning cuts to remove smaller stems that do not contribute to the plant’s main structure or compete too closely with other stronger stems. Your Tabasco pepper should also be at least a foot tall before you perform this pruning. The second pruning time comes later in the season after the fruits have appeared on the plant but before they are fully mature. For this second pruning, you should focus on removing any non-fruit-bearing stem, to focus all growing energy on stems that do hold fruits.
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How can I prune my Tabasco pepper?
Tabasco pepper tends to be relatively delicate plants compared to other fruit-bearing species. As such, you should use caution when you prune, lest you cause unintended damage to otherwise healthy stems. The best tool to use to prune your Tabasco pepper is a pair of clean and sharp hand-held pruning shears. Whether you are performing early-season, or late season pruning, you should follow each stem you intend to remove back to where it meets a larger stem or the main stem. Make your pruning cut as close to the larger stem as you can, to remove the smaller stem entirely and prevent it from regrowing. During the early part of the season, you should use your pruning cuts to create the strongest form for your Tabasco pepper. Removing stems that do not contribute to the plant's main structure, or any leaves that appear wilted, will make your Tabasco pepper better-suited to supporting heavy fruits later in the season. The second form of pruning should occur after the bloom period when the fruit development process is just beginning. At this time, you should cut off any flowers or excess leaves as well as any stems that do not hold fruits. This type of pruning gives your Tabasco pepper the chance to focus all of its energy towards fruit development.
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What should I do after pruning my Tabasco pepper?
After you perform the frist main pruning of the season, in which you should remove most or all of the nonessential stems, you should water and fertilize your plant to help it recover from your pruning cuts and put forth new growth more quickly. Following the second main pruning of the season, you should allow the fruits on your Tabasco pepper to fully mature. Fertilization can also be helpful following this pruning, as many of the leaves you remove will hold stored growth energy. A feeding of fertilizer can more than make up for removing that energy store, and will help yoru plant direct energy towards fruit development rather than sustaining leaves. Once the peppers are fully mature, you can harvest them and use them as you please in your kitchen. After harvest, your Tabasco pepper will have reached the end of its life cycle. With that being the case, you are not free to cut down your Tabasco pepper at its base. This will remove the entirety of your Tabasco pepper’s above ground structure, which will wither and die as the cold weather approaches. Clearing out your Tabasco pepper also cleans your garden bed and gives you the opportunity to plant something else in its place.
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How can I prune my Tabasco pepper during different seasons?
You should plant your Tabasco pepper seeds during the late winter. During this season, and most of the early spring, your plant will be in a seedling stage and won’t need much, if any pruning. During spring, before the blooms have arrived, you can perform your first main pruning that should emphasize a stong form and remove any unnecessary stems from your Tabasco pepper. After that, you won’t need to do much pruning throughout the rest of spring, except to remove damaged stems and leaves. Your second main pruning will take place after the bloom period while the plant is developing its fruits. Tabasco pepper take about 60 to 120 days to grow from seed to a harvest-able form regularly, rather than offer fruits in the same month every year, meaning that you'll need to observe your plant's growth phase to determine when to perform the second pruning of the year.
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How can I prune my Tabasco pepper through different growth stages?
While Tabasco pepper is a perennial species, when they live in their native growing range, but many gardeners will need to grow these plants as annuals, if their regional climate includes cold winter temperatures, which Tabasco pepper cannot survive. That means that your Tabasco pepper will likely complete its life cycle in a single growing season. During the spring, at the beginning of this life cycle, you should focus on creating the ideal fruit-bearing form with your pruning efforts. Once your plant matures and reaches a fruit-bearing stage, your sole goal is to support those fruits by encouraging the plant to devote the majority of its growing energy towards stems that hold fruits. At this point, all non-fruit-bearing stems are of little value. Following the harvest, your Tabasco pepper will finish its life cycle and require no further pruning.
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Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Tabasco pepper?
Pruning Tabasco pepper is a relatively straightforward task, but there are a few tips that will help you meet success. First, you should always use sears that are sharp and sterile, which helps you make clean cuts and reduce the spread of disease. During your pruning that takes place after the bloom period, you may need to remove flowers and fruits that are small or stunted compared to others on the plant, as this will direct energy towards the most viable and worthwhile peppers that grow on your plant. You should also pay attention to how you remove the peppers during harvest time. Often, it is best to use your pruning shears again for this job and make a clean cut right where the stem of the fruit meets the rest of the plant.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Tabasco pepper has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Tabasco pepper?
There is an ideal temperature range that makes Tabasco pepper feel at home. Under these temperature conditions, it's unlikely that you’ll have any issues with cold or hot damage to the foliage, but changing leaf colors can absolutely be a sign that Tabasco pepper isn’t happy. Try to keep your Tabasco pepper well within its preferred range of 70-85℉(21-30℃), but don’t panic if the temperature creeps up past 85℉(30℃) during the day or down to 70℉(21℃) at night.
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How can I protect Tabasco pepper from extreme temperatures outdoors?
If your Tabasco pepper happens to be planted outside, then there’s not much you can do to try to move it indoors. However, you can certainly provide cover in ways that will help it survive any extreme temperatures that may arise unexpectedly. For instance, you can always use a few stakes and some cloth to put together a shade tent that will block out much of the sun’s intense heat from direct sunlight exposure.
Similarly, Tabasco pepper can be protected from the extreme cold and especially chilly winds by building a small greenhouse around the plant, which will create a greenhouse effect and warm the plant up. This can be done using garden stakes and any sort of clear or translucent plastic you may have around; if you have greenhouse plastic such as polycarbonate laying around, this works perfectly. Remove the greenhouse once temperatures warm up to 40℉(10℃) at night.
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Does Tabasco pepper need different temperatures in different seasons?
Generally speaking, Tabasco pepper needs to stay within its preferred temperature range all year long. However, that doesn’t mean that care should stay the same all year long. During the warmest months of the year, Tabasco pepper will need a little extra shade and a bit more of a breeze to help it cope with the hottest days. On the other hand, it may need to be moved away from chilly windows and doors during the cooler months in climates where temperatures drop below 40℉(10℃) at any point in the year.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Tabasco pepper?
Keeping your Tabasco pepper at the right temperature can be fairly simple. Depending on where you grow it, Tabasco pepper can be fairly easy to accommodate. For indoor growing, you can easily move the plant to different locations within your indoor space that best meet its temperature requirements. Avoid placing it near air conditioning vents, heaters, doors that open frequently, or drafty windows.
It is a little more difficult to control the temperature around your Tabasco pepper if it’s grown outside. Of course, if it’s planted in a pot, you can simply bring it indoors when the temperatures outside get too hot or too cold for Tabasco pepper, but otherwise, you may need to take different measures to protect it from extreme heat or cold that may damage it irreversibly. Try placing Tabasco pepper under cover to protect from both the harsh sun that can overheat it and any cold wind that could be potentially deadly for your plant.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. This means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Tabasco pepper?

Tabasco pepper generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.

Propagation

The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Tabasco pepper. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. What you will need for breeding:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. The cutting needs to have at least one leaf but should not have any flowers. Using your sterilized scissors, cut through the stem just below a leaf joint, because the root system usually grows from the there. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Pinch off the lower leaves on the cutting until there are just the top 4 to 6 leaves remaining. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Cover the container with the humidity dome or a clear plastic bag. Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Tabasco pepper dry out. If there is too much humidity, remove the cover periodically to allow some evaporation.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Tabasco pepper. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Tabasco pepper to more sunlight and removing the cover so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Tabasco pepper. After this period, Tabasco pepper can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Tabasco pepper?

Seeds of tabasco pepper should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. This is because the seeds of tabasco pepper require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep tabasco pepper warm.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Tabasco pepper?

After fruiting, tabasco pepper can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Tabasco pepper’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Tabasco pepper?

The ideal season for transplanting tabasco pepper is S1-S2, as it promotes stronger growth. Choose a sunny location protected from high winds for the plant. Refrain from over-watering post-transplant, as this can lead to root rot. Keep faith, and your tabasco pepper will flourish marvelously.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Tabasco pepper?

Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Tabasco Pepper Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Tabasco pepper craves plenty of solar exposure for optimal growth, with a mild tolerance for less illuminated environments. Its original habitat features extensive sun exposure, making plentiful sunlight a key contributor to its healthy development. Excessive or deficient sunlight exposure may hinder its growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Tabasco pepper hails from a climate where temperatures range from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives best in warmth and can adjust to seasonal temperature changes, provided the mercury doesn't drop below its comfort zone.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
The ideal season for transplanting tabasco pepper is S1-S2, as it promotes stronger growth. Choose a sunny location protected from high winds for the plant. Refrain from over-watering post-transplant, as this can lead to root rot. Keep faith, and your tabasco pepper will flourish marvelously.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
In Feng Shui philosophy, the fiery energy of the tabasco pepper resonates harmoniously with the elemental essence of the Southern direction, typically associated with recognition and fame. The tabasco pepper's vibrant red color and spiciness can likely stimulate positive chi energy flow when placed in such areas. This idea, however, remains open to personal interpretation and experiential variations.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During the seedling stage, tabasco pepper requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; tabasco pepper is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Tabasco pepper based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf deformity
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
  • stunting
  • abnormal shapes
  • a bumpy texture
  • gaps between leaf sections
  • raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Nutrient deficiencies
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
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Fruit rot
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
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More About Tabasco Pepper

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
40 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 to 1.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 cm
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Common Problems

Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?

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There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.

Why are the blossom-ends of my tabasco pepper rotten?

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This problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.

Why are the tabasco pepper deformed?

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Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, tabasco pepper infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.

Why are the fruits so small?

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This is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by tabasco pepper, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with tabasco pepper should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.

Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?

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This is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. This can effectively prevent flowers from falling.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Herb
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

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Soil
Loam, Garden soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
10℃ to 35℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
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2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3
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Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Tabasco Pepper
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Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
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Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
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Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
label
main-image
Tabasco Pepper
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper
Tabasco pepper

How to Care for Tabasco Pepper

Although tabasco pepper, or Capsicum frutescens, grows wild in Central and South America, this type of pepper has been cultivated as a garden annual or short-lived perennial in other areas. There are also ornamental varieties of this species that are grown for the flashy colored fruit.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Tabasco pepper has a long growth period and requires a lot of water. Its roots are shallow, requiring frequent but not excessive watering. If possible, water it in the morning on sunny days. This way, the plant has sufficient time to absorb water before sunset and any excess water can evaporate. If it is watered on cloudy days or at night, excessive water around the plant may cause it to become infected by diseases.
Tabasco pepper requires different amounts of water during each growth stage. At the seedling stage, the plant requires less water but the soil should be kept moist. Excessive water will cause spindling and diseases. Too little water will cause aging in young seedlings. During the early blooming season, it requires less water. Proper watering can promote the growth of roots.
When in full bloom, the plant requires a lot of water; maintain the soil's water content at 60-80%. Additionally, water it once before transplanting. Water should also be plentiful at the beginning of fruiting, and watering should be lessened when the fruit matures. The soil's water content during this time should be maintained at around 65%.
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What is the best way to water my Tabasco pepper?
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Tabasco pepper likes habitats with sufficient nutrients and various fertilizers that are added in a balanced manner. Apply less fertilizer at the seedling stage. When it grows 2-3 leaves, apply fertilizers rich in nitrogen and phosphorus promptly to provide nutrients for flower buds to grow. Increase the fertilizer amount appropriately during blooming, and apply a proper amount of boron fertilizer to prevent flowers from falling.
During the full fruiting period, tabasco pepper needs a lot of nutrients. The fertilizer amount should be increased at this time, and it is best to use a mixed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer. In the late stage of the fruiting period, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to the roots so that the fruits will grow larger and brighter.
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Fertilizer

Tabasco pepper species can provide you with delicious fresh vegetables all summer long, which is why they are so popular with home gardeners. You may have heard that Tabasco pepper does best with a lot of fertilizer, but it can be difficult to determine just what that means, and how to best feed your garden.
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Tabasco pepper for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
Tabasco pepper is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Tabasco pepper requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Tabasco pepper, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Tabasco pepper needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Tabasco pepper without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Tabasco pepper, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Tabasco pepper is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Over-fertilizing Tabasco pepper can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Tabasco pepper. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Tabasco pepper to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure. Avoid giving Tabasco pepper a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Tabasco pepper when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Tabasco pepper likes sufficient sunlight, but it cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. The length of sunlight exposure has little effect on its growth. Therefore, it is adaptable for cultivation in different latitudes worldwide.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Tabasco pepper is pruned mainly to meet the fruits' need for nutrients. Be diligent about removing the old leaves and weak lateral branches at the bottom of the plant to ensure ventilation and light transmission and increase its photosynthesis. At the same time, pruning also reduces unnecessary nutrition consumption and ensures the nutritional demand of fruits are met.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Tabasco pepper enjoys a high-temperature habitat and is widely planted in temperate and tropical zones. The plant generally grows in environments with temperatures above 5 ℃. The optimum temperature for its growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is lower than 15 ℃, its growth and development stop, and when the temperature is above 35 ℃, germination and pollination are affected, leading to fruit deformation or yield decrease. Generally speaking, bell peppers are more sensitive to temperature than chili peppers, so they are more easily affected by hot weather.
Tabasco pepper has some drought tolerance, but there is a great difference among the varieties. In general, varieties with small fruits are more drought-tolerant than those with large fruits. The plant requires sufficient water in its soil, but should not be watered too much. Too much water will cause root rot. Its preferred air humidity for growth is 60-80%. If the air is excessively dry, it should be humidified by spraying water.
What is the optimal temperature for Tabasco pepper?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Tabasco pepper requires a well-drained and permeable culture medium with sufficient nutrients and a soil pH of 6.2-7.2, or neutral to weakly acidic. The growth of its seeds and roots requires an air-permeable environment, so the soil should be turned over often to avoid hardening. If it is planted in a garden, plant it in a high place for good water drainage. The culture medium should be disinfected and sterilized before transplanting.
Sunlight and chemical sterilization of the soil is generally employed. This means evenly paving the medium, covering it with a black film, and then exposing it to the sun for 15 days. After that, pesticides like Carbendazim are added at the instructed dosage, then mixed evenly to achieve the effect of sterilization.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Tabasco pepper generally propagates by sowing. Wait for the seeds to germinate after sowing; these seedlings can be transplanted for the first time after 4-5 leaves grow out from each seedling. The plant spacing should be 5 cm. When the seedlings grow to be strong seedlings with 14-15 leaves and the stems that are beginning to harden, they can be planted. The plant spacing at this point should be 25 to 30 cm.
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Propagation

The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Tabasco pepper. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. What you will need for breeding:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. The cutting needs to have at least one leaf but should not have any flowers. Using your sterilized scissors, cut through the stem just below a leaf joint, because the root system usually grows from the there. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Pinch off the lower leaves on the cutting until there are just the top 4 to 6 leaves remaining. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Cover the container with the humidity dome or a clear plastic bag. Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Tabasco pepper dry out. If there is too much humidity, remove the cover periodically to allow some evaporation.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Tabasco pepper. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Tabasco pepper to more sunlight and removing the cover so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Tabasco pepper. After this period, Tabasco pepper can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Seeds of tabasco pepper should be sown under good conditions, namely at a temperature of 25 to 30 ℃, humidity at 60-80%, and in well-permeable soil. Before sowing, the seeds should be exposed to sunlight for 2-3 days for sterilization and promotion of seed germination. The sowing spacing should be 2.5 cm, and the sowing depth should be 1.3 cm. After sowing, cover the area with a layer of fine soil.
Pay attention to heat preservation in the first 10 days after sowing. Cover soil with a film; no ventilation is required. This is because the seeds of tabasco pepper require a warm environment for germination. When the seedlings break the earth and grow 2-4 leaves each, the film should be removed for proper ventilation. The growth temperature should be maintained at 20 to 25 ℃ in the daytime and 15 to 17 ℃ at night. Remove any weeds and apply proper urea as a foliar fertilizer.
As for transplanting, healthy seedlings with 12-13 leaves each and hard stems are best. It is preferable to transplant them on a cloudy day, and the temperature should remain stable at over 10 ℃ to protect them from frost. It is better to transplant the seedlings with the surrounding soil to protect the roots and supply an adaptable amount of nutrients. The planting depth should be 10 cm and the plant spacing should be 20 to 30 cm. After transplanting, the gap can be filled with fine soil, and the seedlings should be watered promptly. The soil surface can be covered with a thin layer of mulch to keep tabasco pepper warm.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
After fruiting, tabasco pepper can be harvested at any time. The fruits, whether red or green, can be eaten and used as a seasoning. The plant's longest fruit period is 120 days. Earlier fruit should be harvested promptly, which prevents the plant from supplying nutrients to the earlier fruits only and affecting the growth of later fruits. Tabasco pepper’s branches are very fragile, so be careful when harvesting its fruits to avoid accidentally breaking branches. Once found, abnormal and poor-quality fruits should be removed promptly to ensure the growth of other fruits.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Tabasco pepper?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The ideal season for transplanting tabasco pepper is S1-S2, as it promotes stronger growth. Choose a sunny location protected from high winds for the plant. Refrain from over-watering post-transplant, as this can lead to root rot. Keep faith, and your tabasco pepper will flourish marvelously.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Tabasco pepper?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
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More Info on Tabasco Pepper Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

During the seedling stage, tabasco pepper requires warmth over ventilation. When the flower buds start to appear, the plant needs moderate cooling and ventilation. High-temperature weather is favorable for its growth; tabasco pepper is not resistant to low temperatures. In spring, care should be taken to prevent frost. A film can be put on the soil surface to maintain a high temperature. Watering should be flexibly adjusted according to the growth period and seasons. In summer, the plant can be frequently watered to keep the soil moist. In case of continuous rainy days, attention should be paid to drainage. It should be watered less when fruits begin to grow.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Tabasco pepper based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity Leaf deformity Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More About the Nutrient deficiencies more
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More About the Fruit rot more
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf deformity
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
  • stunting
  • abnormal shapes
  • a bumpy texture
  • gaps between leaf sections
  • raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
  1. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
  2. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
  3. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
  4. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
  5. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
  6. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
  2. Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
  3. Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
  4. Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
  5. Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Nutrient deficiencies
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Fruit rot
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
  2. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
  3. Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
  4. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
  1. Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
  2. Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
  3. Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
  4. Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
  1. Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
  2. Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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More About Tabasco Pepper

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
40 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 to 1.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 cm
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Common Problems

Why have the leaves turned yellow or withered?

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There are many possible reasons for this phenomenon. First, it is important to determine whether or not the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient or too much sunlight, elongated drought, and fertilizer deficiency all will cause yellowed or withered leaves. If these reasons are ruled out, consider whether the issue may be caused by diseases or pests. In the case of pests, holes can usually be found on the plant. If a disease is the problem, the diseased parts of the plant should be cut off as soon as possible and the wounds should be disinfected.

Why are the blossom-ends of my tabasco pepper rotten?

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This problem is known as blossom-end rot and is generally caused by a lack of calcium or water. Treat it with supplement calcium fertilizer. For example, spray 1% calcium superphosphate once every 10-15 days, 2-3 times in succession during the bloom time to effectively supplement calcium. The plant also needs plenty of water for growth. It should be watered sufficiently when planted, and the water should be reduced properly after its fruits mature. Use a film to cover the soil surface to effectively reduce water loss, and provide proper shading to reduce excessive transpiration.

Why are the tabasco pepper deformed?

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Deformation also has many possible causes. The first step to identifying the problem is to determine rule out environmental conditions. Fruit deformation may be caused by too high or too low temperature before and after blooming, nutrient deficiency, and/or insufficient sunlight. Long-time exposure to blazing sunlight or lack of water may also lead to fruit deformation. To correct these issues, keep the temperature at about 25 ℃ during blooming, prune off excessive lateral branches and old leaves, and ensure sufficient but not too strong sunlight and proper fertilizer. Additionally, tabasco pepper infected with a virus will become deformed. In such cases, plants should be sprayed with a pesticide that will kill thrips, aphids, and other pests that transmit viruses.

Why are the fruits so small?

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This is usually caused by boron or potassium deficiencies. Generally, the high temperature of 30 to 35 ℃ will inhibit the absorption of boron by tabasco pepper, and too much nitrogen fertilization can inhibit the absorption of potassium by the plant. In addition to avoiding the above two issues, you can also spray foliar fertilizer to supplement the boron and potassium. Small fruits can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. A flowerpot planted with tabasco pepper should be moved to a place with elongated sunlight exposure and redundant or messy lateral branches should be cut off with scissors. It is generally recommended that the earlier fruits be harvested quickly to prevent the plant from supplying nutrients to them, affecting its later growth. If the plant grows too weak, the fruits appearing later will be small.

Why do the flowers fall off in large numbers?

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This is generally caused by excessive nitrogen fertilizer application in the early stage of blooming. Excessive nitrogen elements cause the spindling growth of plants and consume a large number of nutrients, which eventually results in the flower falling during blooming. To avoid this issue, properly apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the bloom time and reduce the use of nitrogen fertilizer. Insufficient sunlight, too low or too high temperatures, and excessive or insufficient watering also may result in falling flowers. Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) can be sprayed during full bloom once every 10 days, 2-3 times in succession. This can effectively prevent flowers from falling.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Herb
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
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Loam, Garden soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
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Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
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2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
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Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
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Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
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Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Tabasco pepper craves plenty of solar exposure for optimal growth, with a mild tolerance for less illuminated environments. Its original habitat features extensive sun exposure, making plentiful sunlight a key contributor to its healthy development. Excessive or deficient sunlight exposure may hinder its growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Tabasco pepper thrives in full sunlight and is commonly cultivated outdoors. When grown indoors with limited light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency that can easily go unnoticed.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Tabasco pepper may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Tabasco pepper enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Tabasco pepper thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Tabasco pepper hails from a climate where temperatures range from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives best in warmth and can adjust to seasonal temperature changes, provided the mercury doesn't drop below its comfort zone.
Regional wintering strategies
Tabasco pepper prefers relatively warm temperatures, so maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter cultivation is beneficial for plant growth. The minimum temperature should be kept above freezing point to prevent the plant from freezing damage. When the outdoor temperature approaches -5°C (25°F) during winter, it is advisable to bring Tabasco pepper indoors or provide protection by setting up a temporary greenhouse or using materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Tabasco pepper has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may darken in color. In severe cases, water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping may occur, and the color of the leaves gradually turns brown.
Solutions
Trim away the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Tabasco pepper should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth slows down, the color of its leaves becomes lighter, and it becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Tabasco Pepper?
The ideal season for transplanting tabasco pepper is S1-S2, as it promotes stronger growth. Choose a sunny location protected from high winds for the plant. Refrain from over-watering post-transplant, as this can lead to root rot. Keep faith, and your tabasco pepper will flourish marvelously.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Tabasco Pepper?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Tabasco Pepper?
The prime season for transferring tabasco pepper is late spring or early summer (S1-S2). It's the period when the plant can gain strength before blooming. Consider this season to ensure a hearty harvest. The plant's peak health and growth potential are maximized during this time, and there's reduced risk of frost damage. Your friendly gardener advises - plan smartly to enjoy a successful tabasco pepper season.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Tabasco Pepper Plants?
When you're ready to transplant your tabasco pepper, give each one some space to grow. Ideally, the plants should be spaced about 2-3 feet apart (that's 60-90 cm). This way, they won't be competing for water and nutrients. It's like giving each plant its private little garden home!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Tabasco Pepper Transplanting?
For tabasco pepper, try using a well-draining soil mix. It loves crumbly loam-based compost - it’s like a comfy bed! Start with a base fertilizer - something like a slow-release granular type. You're setting up a nutritious meal that keeps on giving.
Where Should You Relocate Your Tabasco Pepper?
An important thing for tabasco pepper is the sunlight. The ideal location would be in full sun and away from shade. It’s similar to us soaking up the sun at the beach! They need around 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. It will make them grow strong and healthy.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Tabasco Pepper?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from the soil and plant.
Shovel or Garden Spade
To dig the hole at the destination spot and to lift the plant’s root ball.
Trowel
To remove the tabasco pepper from smaller containers such as pots or trays.
Well-rotted Compost
To offer essential nutrients to the tabasco pepper.
Mulch
To retain soil moisture and control weeds after transplanting.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
To water the plant after transplanting it to ensure it settles properly.
Gardening Scissors
To trim off any withered leaves or stems.
How Do You Remove Tabasco Pepper from the Soil?
From Ground: Make sure to water the tabasco pepper plant a day before the move to ease the extraction process. Carefully dig around the plant with a shovel, aiming to take out the root ball without causing any damage. Once loose, carefully lift the plant from the hole.
From Pot: Begin by watering the tabasco pepper, then safely tip the plant on its side and slowly coax it out by tapping the bottom of the pot while supporting the stem and root ball with your other hand. Make sure not to pull or tug the plant.
From Seedling Tray: Gently ease the seedling out by pushing up from the bottom of the tray. Be cautious not to damage the stem or roots during the process, and hold the seedling by their leaves to avoid any inflicting any damage.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Tabasco Pepper
Step1 Preparation
Have all your tools arranged and at hand before beginning the process. The new planting hole should be dug in advance - it should be about twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of your tabasco pepper plant.
Step2 Moving the Plant
Remove the tabasco pepper plant from its original location following the steps described above based on its current setting, be it ground, pot, or seedling tray.
Step3 Planting
Transfer the tabasco pepper plant to the new location immediately to avoid stressing the plant. The top of the root ball should be at ground level.
Step4 Composting & Mulching
Add a light covering of compost, then mulch around the plant to help maintain soil moisture and control weeds.
Step5 Watering
Water the transplant immediately, ensuring the soil gets thoroughly soaked.
How Do You Care For Tabasco Pepper After Transplanting?
Proper Watering
Ensure the soil stays moist until the tabasco pepper plant is well established, usually takes a few weeks. Do not let the soil dry out.
Pruning
Keep an eye out for any signs of distress, like wilting leaves or stems, and prune them promptly to help the plant focus its energy on new growth.
Weed Control
Regularly remove any weeds that grow around the tabasco pepper plant, to prevent them from hampering the plant's growth by competing for nutrients.
Pest and Disease Management
Watch out for pests or disease symptoms and deal with them immediately to prevent it from spreading.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Tabasco Pepper Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant tabasco pepper?
The ideal time to transplant tabasco pepper is in between seasonal shifts (S1-S2). This period provides optimal growth conditions for the plant.
What is the recommended distance between each tabasco pepper during transplantation?
To prevent root competition, place each tabasco pepper about 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart during transplantation. This gives each plant enough nutrients and light.
Why do the leaves of my transplanted tabasco pepper look wilted?
Wilted leaves often suggest stress from transplantation. Keep the soil regularly moistened and shield it from direct sun for a few days.
How do I address yellow leaves on my transplanted tabasco pepper?
Yellow leaves may indicate overwatering or nutrient deficiency. Refrain from soaking the soil and consider a nutrient-rich fertilizer compatible with tabasco pepper.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting tabasco pepper?
The hole should be twice the width and the same depth as your tabasco pepper's root ball. This allows healthy root expansion.
How important is it to water tabasco pepper after transplanting?
It's crucial! Watering helps settle the soil, eliminates air pockets and provides much-needed moisture. Deep watering post-transplanting boosts tabasco pepper's successful establishment.
What should I do if my tabasco pepper's growth seems slow after transplantation?
Ensure tabasco pepper gets enough sunlight and water it as per its needs. Also check that the soil is rich in nutrients. If necessary, use plant food.
Can tabasco pepper be transplanted in a pot and then moved outdoors?
Sure, tabasco pepper can be started in a pot indoors and later relocated outside. Just remember, the pot should be large enough for initial root growth.
Why are there white spots on the leaves of my transplanted tabasco pepper?
White spots may signal a fungal infection. Remove affected leaves and apply a suitable fungicide. Ensure your tabasco pepper isn't waterlogged, as it encourages fungal growth.
What should be the ideal soil condition for transplanting tabasco pepper?
The soil for tabasco pepper should be well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.0), and rich in organic matter. Amend the soil if these conditions aren't met.
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