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How to Care for Mandacaru

Mandacaru is a spiny flowering succulent tree that has no leaves. In spring, the blossoms bloom at dusk and wither by the morning. In the past, it has been used for timber and construction or feed for livestock at times of drought; now, it can be used as a living fence or as an ornamental.
symbolism

Symbolism

Transient beauty, a spectacular moment
Water
Water
Once per month
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Mandacaru?

Mandacaru is a drought-tolerant plant that does not require frequent watering. Water thoroughly when the soil is completely dry. When potted, water slowly, wait for water to flow out the bottom, and then pour the excess water from the tray to avoid water accumulation.
Spring, summer, and fall are its growing seasons. Water once or twice a week to keep the soil slightly wet. In winter, water less; just keep the soil from drying excessively; usually once a week. Besides, water with rainwater or distilled water rather than tap water.
Tap water contains a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts. Long-term use tends to cause soil compaction. Avoid splashing water on its stem when watering to prevent rotting.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Mandacaru?
Another tip when watering this species is to water it from the bottom. This is for the proper absorption of water to the roots, enabling it to circulate the nutrients from the soil towards its whole body. When you accidentally spill water at the top part, this can cause the development of diseases and fungi.
Use sprinklers when you have irrigation systems. Get the small sprinklers if you have Mandacarued in your garden. It's best to get the revolving ones that allow you to change the water delivery patterns whenever you need them. Avoid turning on the sprinkler on windy days. Make sure to use the soak and dry method regardless if the Mandacaru is in a pot or your garden. This will evenly distribute the moisture across the root systems resulting in healthier growth.
Some owners might want to get a built-in drainage system for their succulents. This is where layers of porous materials like recycled glass or hydro stones are placed beneath the soil. They will generally be a reservoir for excess water, so it's important not to pour too much water into these built-in systems.
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What should I do if I water my Mandacaru too much/too little?
When you see that the Mandacaru begins to turn yellow, know that this can be caused by underwatering or overwatering. When the soil is too wet, then there might be the presence of fungal infections. You should allow everything to dry, and you should not overwater.
Also, the browning and dropping symptoms indicate that your plant is getting too much moisture and water. If there's not enough water, the indication can be seen with the yellow tips that can begin to form on stems and branches.
When you're still in the process of buying the Mandacaru, make sure to ask first if the soil is properly draining or sandy. When the topsoil does not properly drain, there's a chance that the plant will likely not receive enough water in the future.
Another thing is that the Mandacaru tends to die when it's constantly getting overwatered and if it's receiving too much rain if planted outside. Use rainwater or distilled water whenever possible as the plants don't like many minerals in their drink.
You can see the squishy stems, drooping growth, and discolored parts that are all signs of too much moisture. It's critical to give the species time to recover and allow the pot to dry. Transfer it to a different container to avoid root rot and prevent it from dripping. If planted outside, you can also transfer it into a pot, especially in the winter, to help it recover.
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How often should I water my Mandacaru?
Most of the time, you only need to water your succulents once every two to three weeks in the summer and spring. During the winter and fall, reduce the watering or avoid this as this plant tends to become dormant.
Let the soil dry completely, and it's always a good idea to lean on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. When they are in the pot, water deeply at intervals to encourage healthier soil growth.
When they are planted outdoors, never water them lightly as this will result in more shallow root growth. Wait for a few weeks and only give them a drink when the soil around them is too dry.
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How much water does my Mandacaru need?
Water this succulent efficiently and make sure to cover the entire pot. Set a saucer at the bottom of the pot so the roots will get enough moisture. When you see that the soil begins to saturate, take out the saucer immediately. The holes in the pot and the amount of soil will determine the frequency and the quantity of water you should give your plant. A can of water is often more than enough for the Mandacaru especially if they are planted in pots.
When you plant them in the garden or outdoors, you need to include the rainwater they receive. About an inch of rainwater is more than enough to last them for a few weeks, so refrain from watering. When they are outside, you need to water them in the morning with about a gallon of water after you see that the soil is bone dry so the sunlight can help evaporate the excess moisture.
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Why is watering my Mandacaru important?
Watering the Mandacaru will help transport the nutrients that it needs from the soil to the rest of the plant. Without enough moisture, the Mandacaru won't remain healthy or might even become malnourished. Watering should be done when you see some signs that the plant is thirsty. When you're in doubt, you should never overwater as this can be a way to kill them.
The best way to water them is the soak and dry method. When you see that the soil becomes too dry, you should soak them in water until you see that the pot is dripping with water underneath. Then, go for weeks without watering to give the soil a chance to rest.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Mandacaru adequately?
Before you give this plant a drink, it's always a good idea to check the soil's moisture levels by poking your finger in it or using a moisture meter. This will tell you whether the soil is already too dry or if there's still moisture. It's a technique used by owners of smaller potted plants to know whether it's time to water or not.
Assess the needs of your Mandacaru and know that it requires watering every two weeks during the summer. You can go as far as three weeks in the hot season before watering this, but in the fall or winter, there should not be any water at all. Allow the soil to dry between irrigations. They can be grown in greenhouses and other warm spots indoors and thrive well. When your plant is getting too much light, you can increase the watering frequency as long as you see that the soil is dry. They can also be grown outdoors, where you will need to water them less. Give it enough water once every three weeks; this should be more than enough. Don't rely alone on irrigations and sprinklers to reach their bases. Use a soaker hose that will hit the ground and spread the water. Make sure it won't hit much of the body of the plant as this can result in diseases.
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Mandacaru according to different seasons or climates?
Mandacaru is very tolerant of drought. This means that you don't need to water them very often. Watering frequency should also depend on the climate where you live. In a dry environment, you can make the watering conditions adapt well to your plants' needs. When they are in their early flowering stages, you might want to increase watering to help them grow. When they are receiving enough sunlight, water only in the morning. Specifically, they can be watered once every 10 to 14 days during the summer. You can increase this frequency during times of heat waves and make sure to mist the base from time to time lightly. When it's too cold, you can cut back on watering or once every 21 to 28 days when it begins to cool down.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Mandacaru?
When you've just repotted the plant, you should wait for a week before you can water your Mandacaru. When it's time to water them, be generous until you see the water coming out of the potholes but don't make it a deluge. When they have already grown and received medium light, you might want to water them once every 2 to 3 weeks since they are very tolerant to drought.
In the winter, you will further need to cut back on watering. The ideal time is to water it once every 3 to 4 weeks as long as the soil does not feel too dry. Winter is their resting season, so they don't consume a lot of energy or grow at this time.
If you grow the plants outdoors, rainwater can be another excellent alternative when you want to hold back on watering. When you live in an area where you don't get much rain, water at least once every three weeks to prevent the soil from drying too much.
In humid locations, there's no need to water a lot. When keeping the Mandacaru indoors, you won't have to keep the moisture high, especially if the plant does not receive too much sunlight. When there's too much moisture and not enough light, this can spell disaster for the succulents.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Mandacaru in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
The Mandacaru growing outdoors can thrive with rainfall, but when it’s planted in a pot, you need to be careful while Mandacaru is still in the growing stage. One way to prevent overwatering is to check the top bottom inches of the soil for moisture. Once again, you need it to be dry so you can water it again. If you're unsure of the amount and the frequency, especially during the growing phase, go with underwatering and slightly increase it when you see a need. It's always a good idea to take a picture of the Mandacaru and note how it looks after watering it. You can take things further by using moisture meters or hygrometers to check the air and soil moisture. These tools are available from various shops and can be valuable when you want to know the readings for humidity and water.
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Should I water my Mandacaru differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Know that these plants can survive for weeks without any water. This is because they have water storage capacity that can conserve water for a long time. so it will conserve enough water to stay alive even if they are in the wild.
When they are fully grown, water them less since they can survive without water compared to when they were small. You need to give them time to get used to your climate and growing conditions before watering them. If they are indoors, keep them in indirect light and water them less frequently. Avoid using cold water during the winter and months, and you might be overwatering when the plants are located indoors. Give this a rest, especially during the winter and fall.
When they are outdoors, refrain from watering too much. They should be able to get enough humidity, moisture, and rainfall that will keep them alive. Only water when you see that their leaves are becoming droopy and yellowish. Always lean on the side of underwatering as the Mandacaru is very tolerant to dry conditions. They don't like wet feet and might wilt when you water them too much.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Mandacaru?

In growing seasons (namely spring, summer and fall), fertilize mandacaru once a month with liquid fertilizer. No fertilizer is required in winter. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer can be well mixed into the soil when repotting in spring or fall.
Use nitrogen fertilizer during seedling and phosphate-potassium fertilizer before and after blooming. The fertilizer concentration should be as low as possible. It would be better to apply low-concentrate fertilizer several times rather than to use a high concentration. If the base is yellow and grows slowly, the cause may be excessive fertilizer, and fertilization should be immediately stopped.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Mandacaru adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Mandacaru does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Mandacaru adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Mandacaru only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Mandacaru in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Mandacaru. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Mandacaru, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Mandacaru is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Mandacaru can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Mandacaru has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Mandacaru?
Fertilizing Mandacaru adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Mandacaru?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Mandacaru only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Mandacaru in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Mandacaru?
Like most plants, Mandacaru has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Mandacaru need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Mandacaru. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Mandacaru?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Mandacaru, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Mandacaru too much?
Over-fertilizing Mandacaru is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Mandacaru can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Mandacaru?

Mandacaru is a heliophilic plant and needs sufficient sunlight for its growth and blooming. It can be placed on the outdoor balcony or in the garden without shade. However, long-time exposure to blazing sunlight should be avoided in hot summer, when it needs to be shaded or cooled a little to prevent high temperatures from damaging it.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Mandacaru need to grow?
Mandacaru should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Mandacaru will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Mandacaru need?
Mandacaru needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Mandacaru from sun exposure?
Mandacaru usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Mandacaru is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Mandacaru will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Mandacaru doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Mandacaru will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Mandacaru may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Mandacaru gets too much sunlight?
Mandacaru may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Mandacaru can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
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Does Mandacaru need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Mandacaru will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Mandacaru?
It is best to water Mandacaru in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Mandacaru grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Mandacaru is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Mandacaru?

Mandacaru does not require much pruning. Remove withered flowers and branches so the plant uses nutrients on healthy growth.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Mandacaru?

Mandacaru is distributed throughout tropical, subtropical, and semi-desert regions with scarce rainfall, intense sunlight, and hot temperatures. The optimum temperature for growth is 20 to 35 ℃. Lower than 10 ℃ or higher than 35 ℃, growth slows and dormancy begins. The air humidity should not be too high and the environment should be well-ventilated. Avoid high humidity and accumulated water.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What's the ideal temperature for your Mandacaru?
It is more suitable to keep the Mandacaru in a particular range of conditions. Temperatures the same as 75-90℉ (25-32℃) are ideal for it. During the early winter season, the temperature shouldn't go below 75℉(25℃) for Mandacaru. You can even move it indoors as it will have better protection from the extremes.
Despite that, the Mandacaru can survive in some extreme temperatures. Sometimes can survive in low temperatures like 50℉ (15℃), but it is not ideal. You should bring it inside if winter conditions are expected outside.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Mandacaru during different growing phases?
Mandacaru has different growing phases. In the first stage, the dormant seed grows and transforms into a seedling. The dormant seeds need the appropriate conditions in their surroundings to grow as their seeds need a temperature of 75-90℉ (25-32℃) to germinate. The ideal time to make it grow vigorously is during the summer, as the most suitable temperature is around 85℉(30℃). You can adjust the placement of your Mandacaru from indoors to sunlight during the hot summer months to receive enough sunlight.
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How can I keep my Mandacaru warm in cold seasons?
It's advisable to bring your Mandacaru indoors to avoid the harsh winter conditions. People opt to buy different types of grow light to provide enough sunlight for the plant. However, if your home is not extremely dark, it is not essential to buy these lights. Keep your plants where they will get the most sunlight possible. There should be sufficient light to keep the Mandacaru thriving in winter. If you have several Mandacaru, then keep them rotating so that they all receive enough sunlight.
Avoid placing your Mandacaru too close to the window if you live in northern areas with frigid weather. The cold may be extreme to them, due to which they might get damaged.
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What happens to my Mandacaru when the temperature is too high or too low?
Your Mandacaru can grow better in summers and do better in warm temperatures 90℉(32℃) but you should protect it from temperature extremes during hot climates.
However, during winter, it is better to keep your plant dry. Mandacaru do well in temperate climates having temperatures between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). However, some gardeners can expose their Mandacaru to extreme temperatures causing stress in their plants. While high temperatures ranging between 90℉ and 95℉(32-35℃) can help maintain the deep colors for Mandacaru, you must be careful when trying out such experiment. During the hot summer season extremely high temperatures can burn your Mandacaru damaging their stem and root system. During the hottest time of the day (when the temperature is extremely high), consider relocating your plant to a shaded place or protect them with a shade cloth.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Mandacaru in different seasons?
In summers, high temperatures make the growth of Mandacaru slowed down to survive in too hot a temperature.
As the cooler periods and rainfall begins, the Mandacaru starts growing. If the place you live in has hot summers and warm winters with more rainfalls, you aren't required to change anything.
However, if you live in a place with cold winters, you should let your Mandacaru grow more in summer and rest in winter. It is because there is not enough sunlight for Mandacaru to grow in winter.
You can help your Mandacaru enter dormancy if you live in a place with cold temperatures by decreasing the temperature to 50℉ to 75℉ (15℃ to 25℃).
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How can I keep my Mandacaru warm without a heating pad?
To withstand freezing temperatures outside, as a solution, you can insulate your Mandacaru with frost cloths, row covers, tents etc. You can also mulch your Mandacaru with small rocks. Mulching the Mandacaru soil will provide warmth to your plants and will not let you over-water the plant.
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How can I protect my Mandacaru from temperature damage?
Mandacaru is adapted to sunlight and requires sufficient sunlight for healthy growth. You can place it in an outdoor environment without any shade. However, Mandacaru shouldn't be kept for a long time in the blazing sunlight in the hot summer when it requires to be put under shade so that extreme temperature doesn't damage them. If the winter is extreme in our area, you must keep your Mandacaru indoors to keep them away from frost.
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What are the tips and precautions for keeping my Mandacaru at the right temperature?
Increase water and fertilizer during the growth of plants in spring and summer. Prevent your plant from receiving too much sunlight. To cool plants, spray water around them when the temperature is exceptionally high but don't put water on their stem.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Mandacaru?

Mandacaru grows best in fertile, gravel-rich, water-permeable soil with a pH value of 6-7. The culture soil formula often used is 60% vermiculite + 20% coco coir or peat moss + 20% sandy soil. A small amount of organic potting soil can also be added. Lightweight culture media such as vermiculite can be added to improve the air permeability of the soil. Eggshell powder or vermicompost can also be added to increase the soil fertility.
Roots of mandacaru are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency. If the soil is poorly permeable to air and water, root rot can set in. It's easy to judge permeability: when watering, water should pass through the medium quickly, rather than stop at the soil surface and slowly seep down. Repot and loosen the soil every year to ensure the air permeability of the soil.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Mandacaru?

In addition to the seeding mentioned above, main propagation methods include division and grafting. To divide, cut off the tip or lateral branches of the stem with a knife and plant it in soil. After a period of time, many small shoots will grow up near the cut. When a shoot grows to proper size, it can be cut off and transplanted to form a new plant.
To graft, select a suitable rootstock. Cut the tip of the rootstock, such as the stem of pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), and then put mandacaru, with its roots removed, in the center of the rootstock and fix it with a rope. After 1-2 weeks, the two parts grow together and the rope can be removed.

Propagation

If you want to get more plants, you can propagate them as follows.
The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Mandacaru. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons.
The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  7. Gardening gloves
Steps:
Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container.
Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Cut off healthy stem nodes; the nodes should not be new growth, as this is not easy to succeed. You need to use a clean knife to break or cut off the stem intact at the node location.
Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 weeks, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions.
Step 4: Insert the stems into a loose, airy substrate, keeping them tilted, each about one-third of the way into the substrate. Water thoroughly once after planting, after which you need to wait until the soil is dry 2 inches under the surface before watering again.
Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Mandacaru dry out.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Mandacaru. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Mandacaru to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Mandacaru. After this period, Mandacaru can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Mandacaru?

Sow, plant, or repot in spring or fall when the temperature is 15 to 20 ℃ . Keep air humidity high when seeding. Use plastic film to cover the soil and remove it after the seeds germinate.
Use permeable clay flowerpots for potted plants. Too large a flowerpot accumulates water easily, while too small a flowerpot limits the development of roots. Before planting, expose soil to blazing sunlight and disinfect to kill pathogens.
If planted in the garden, mandacaru prefers an area with full sun and loose soil. Remove all weeds and replace the soil if needed to ensure good water permeability and avoid root rot. Wear gloves or use tongs when planting to prevent your fingers from getting pricked. You can also wrap the plant in a towel to help you move it.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Mandacaru?

Most fruits of mandacaru are edible. Pick the fruit when they turn red. Avoid food safety issues by confirming the species with experts. Wear gloves or use scissors and other tools to harvest.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Mandacaru?

Mandacaru's best time for transplanting is during mid-spring to late summer (S3-S5) because it benefits from the warmth and extended daylight. Select a sunny spot, as mandacaru loves plenty of light. Remember to handle this steadfast succulent with care and wear protective gloves to avoid pricking!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
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More Info on Mandacaru Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Mandacaru craves generous sun exposure and can thrive under complete solar exposure, bearing testament to its origin habitat where ample sunlight is prevalent. It also adapts well to settings with less exposure to sun though. Lack of sufficient light might impede growth, while too much can scorch the plant.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Mandacaru is indigenous to climates where temperatures range from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), expressing a fondness for warmer environments. Seasonal temperatures should mirror this range to maintain the plant's health and growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
3-5 feet
Mandacaru's best time for transplanting is during mid-spring to late summer (S3-S5) because it benefits from the warmth and extended daylight. Select a sunny spot, as mandacaru loves plenty of light. Remember to handle this steadfast succulent with care and wear protective gloves to avoid pricking!
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
0 - 43 ℃
Mandacaru thrives in its native cactus-friendly climates like Brazil, exhibiting natural winter resilience. It cleverly conserves water throughout drier seasons including winter, becoming semi-dormant. Owners of mandacaru must balance inducing its dormancy state with regular, light watering, and ensure it’s overwintered in generally temperature-stable conditions. Hardened survivalists with minimal winter upkeep, mandacaru plants will still charm with their sporadic flowering even amidst cooler temperatures.
Winter Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
The mandacaru is generally considered a well fitted asset in Feng Shui, especially for South-facing environments. This has to do with its sturdy and resilient nature, a key attribute in the Fire element region, usually associated with the South. However, please take note that Feng Shui is subjective and interpretations can differ.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

During peak growth in spring, summer, and fall, increase water and fertilizer. Avoid sunlight exposure in the heat of the summer. Spray water around the plant to cool it down when the temperature is too high, but avoid leaving water on the stem. Avoid water accumulation in the soil. In winter, water it as little as possible or not at all, and stop fertilizer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Mandacaru based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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More About Mandacaru

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
Flower Size
15 to 20 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 to 12 m

Name story

Queen-of-the-night
Mandacaru is named “cereus,” meaning “candle,” because its tall stems are like a candelabra and bear flowers that open in the evening, thus “lighting up” the night.

Usages

Garden Use
Mandacaru is a large succulent with an unusual, attractive shape, and is grown in desert and Mediterranean-climate gardens for this reason and for its beautiful, night-blooming flowers. It is most commonly planted in a large pot or planter, but can also be used as an ornamental specimen anywhere with well-draining soil and full sun.
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Common Problems

Why is its fleshy stem thinner and thinner as it grows?

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Thin stems may be caused by insufficient sunlight, insufficient water, or fertilizer deficiency. Move the pot to a brighter place, but avoid sunburn. Increase water and fertilizer.

How do I deal with root or stem rot?

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Excess water often leads to root and stem rot. Avoid accumulated water in soil. Prune rotten roots and stems and transplant to a new flowerpot in a well-ventilated place. The soil should be loose and air-permeable as far as possible.

Why doesn't my mandacaru ever bloom?

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Firstly, it may not be time for the plant to bloom. Time from seedling to blooming can range between 2-20 years or longer. Secondly, the plant may need more sunlight, temperature or fertilizer. Increase the exposure to sunlight and fertilizer appropriately, supplement the fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, or purchase special fertilizer for promoting blooming of mandacaru.

Why does mandacaru turn yellow?

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Mandacaru turns yellow due to overwatering, insufficient sunlight, or pests. Mandacaru does not require much water, and excess water leads to root anoxia and root rot. Generally, it does not need to be watered often. Water it only when the soil is completely dry. Remember to drain the water in the flowerpot tray. Sunlight can be increased, but avoid direct exposure to blazing sunlight to prevent sunburn. Remove a small amount of pests with alcohol. For large infestations, spray pesticide.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
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more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
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more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
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more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Succulent & cactus soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
15℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Mandacaru
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Mandacaru
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru
Mandacaru

How to Care for Mandacaru

Mandacaru is a spiny flowering succulent tree that has no leaves. In spring, the blossoms bloom at dusk and wither by the morning. In the past, it has been used for timber and construction or feed for livestock at times of drought; now, it can be used as a living fence or as an ornamental.
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Symbolism

Transient beauty, a spectacular moment
Water
Once per month
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Mandacaru?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Mandacaru is a drought-tolerant plant that does not require frequent watering. Water thoroughly when the soil is completely dry. When potted, water slowly, wait for water to flow out the bottom, and then pour the excess water from the tray to avoid water accumulation.
Spring, summer, and fall are its growing seasons. Water once or twice a week to keep the soil slightly wet. In winter, water less; just keep the soil from drying excessively; usually once a week. Besides, water with rainwater or distilled water rather than tap water.
Tap water contains a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts. Long-term use tends to cause soil compaction. Avoid splashing water on its stem when watering to prevent rotting.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Mandacaru?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
In growing seasons (namely spring, summer and fall), fertilize mandacaru once a month with liquid fertilizer. No fertilizer is required in winter. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer can be well mixed into the soil when repotting in spring or fall.
Use nitrogen fertilizer during seedling and phosphate-potassium fertilizer before and after blooming. The fertilizer concentration should be as low as possible. It would be better to apply low-concentrate fertilizer several times rather than to use a high concentration. If the base is yellow and grows slowly, the cause may be excessive fertilizer, and fertilization should be immediately stopped.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Mandacaru adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Mandacaru does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Mandacaru adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Mandacaru only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Mandacaru in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Mandacaru. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Mandacaru, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Mandacaru is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Mandacaru can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Mandacaru has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Mandacaru?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Mandacaru is a heliophilic plant and needs sufficient sunlight for its growth and blooming. It can be placed on the outdoor balcony or in the garden without shade. However, long-time exposure to blazing sunlight should be avoided in hot summer, when it needs to be shaded or cooled a little to prevent high temperatures from damaging it.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Mandacaru?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Mandacaru does not require much pruning. Remove withered flowers and branches so the plant uses nutrients on healthy growth.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Mandacaru?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Mandacaru is distributed throughout tropical, subtropical, and semi-desert regions with scarce rainfall, intense sunlight, and hot temperatures. The optimum temperature for growth is 20 to 35 ℃. Lower than 10 ℃ or higher than 35 ℃, growth slows and dormancy begins. The air humidity should not be too high and the environment should be well-ventilated. Avoid high humidity and accumulated water.
What's the ideal temperature for your Mandacaru?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Mandacaru?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Mandacaru grows best in fertile, gravel-rich, water-permeable soil with a pH value of 6-7. The culture soil formula often used is 60% vermiculite + 20% coco coir or peat moss + 20% sandy soil. A small amount of organic potting soil can also be added. Lightweight culture media such as vermiculite can be added to improve the air permeability of the soil. Eggshell powder or vermicompost can also be added to increase the soil fertility.
Roots of mandacaru are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency. If the soil is poorly permeable to air and water, root rot can set in. It's easy to judge permeability: when watering, water should pass through the medium quickly, rather than stop at the soil surface and slowly seep down. Repot and loosen the soil every year to ensure the air permeability of the soil.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Mandacaru?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
In addition to the seeding mentioned above, main propagation methods include division and grafting. To divide, cut off the tip or lateral branches of the stem with a knife and plant it in soil. After a period of time, many small shoots will grow up near the cut. When a shoot grows to proper size, it can be cut off and transplanted to form a new plant.
To graft, select a suitable rootstock. Cut the tip of the rootstock, such as the stem of pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), and then put mandacaru, with its roots removed, in the center of the rootstock and fix it with a rope. After 1-2 weeks, the two parts grow together and the rope can be removed.
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Propagation

If you want to get more plants, you can propagate them as follows.
The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Mandacaru. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons.
The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  7. Gardening gloves
Steps:
Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container.
Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Cut off healthy stem nodes; the nodes should not be new growth, as this is not easy to succeed. You need to use a clean knife to break or cut off the stem intact at the node location.
Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 weeks, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions.
Step 4: Insert the stems into a loose, airy substrate, keeping them tilted, each about one-third of the way into the substrate. Water thoroughly once after planting, after which you need to wait until the soil is dry 2 inches under the surface before watering again.
Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Mandacaru dry out.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Mandacaru. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Mandacaru to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Mandacaru. After this period, Mandacaru can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Mandacaru?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Sow, plant, or repot in spring or fall when the temperature is 15 to 20 ℃ . Keep air humidity high when seeding. Use plastic film to cover the soil and remove it after the seeds germinate.
Use permeable clay flowerpots for potted plants. Too large a flowerpot accumulates water easily, while too small a flowerpot limits the development of roots. Before planting, expose soil to blazing sunlight and disinfect to kill pathogens.
If planted in the garden, mandacaru prefers an area with full sun and loose soil. Remove all weeds and replace the soil if needed to ensure good water permeability and avoid root rot. Wear gloves or use tongs when planting to prevent your fingers from getting pricked. You can also wrap the plant in a towel to help you move it.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Mandacaru?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Most fruits of mandacaru are edible. Pick the fruit when they turn red. Avoid food safety issues by confirming the species with experts. Wear gloves or use scissors and other tools to harvest.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Mandacaru?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Mandacaru's best time for transplanting is during mid-spring to late summer (S3-S5) because it benefits from the warmth and extended daylight. Select a sunny spot, as mandacaru loves plenty of light. Remember to handle this steadfast succulent with care and wear protective gloves to avoid pricking!
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During peak growth in spring, summer, and fall, increase water and fertilizer. Avoid sunlight exposure in the heat of the summer. Spray water around the plant to cool it down when the temperature is too high, but avoid leaving water on the stem. Avoid water accumulation in the soil. In winter, water it as little as possible or not at all, and stop fertilizer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Mandacaru based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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More About Mandacaru

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Flower Size
Flower Size
15 to 20 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 to 12 m

Name story

Queen-of-the-night
Mandacaru is named “cereus,” meaning “candle,” because its tall stems are like a candelabra and bear flowers that open in the evening, thus “lighting up” the night.

Usages

Garden Use
Mandacaru is a large succulent with an unusual, attractive shape, and is grown in desert and Mediterranean-climate gardens for this reason and for its beautiful, night-blooming flowers. It is most commonly planted in a large pot or planter, but can also be used as an ornamental specimen anywhere with well-draining soil and full sun.
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Common Problems

Why is its fleshy stem thinner and thinner as it grows?

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Thin stems may be caused by insufficient sunlight, insufficient water, or fertilizer deficiency. Move the pot to a brighter place, but avoid sunburn. Increase water and fertilizer.

How do I deal with root or stem rot?

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Excess water often leads to root and stem rot. Avoid accumulated water in soil. Prune rotten roots and stems and transplant to a new flowerpot in a well-ventilated place. The soil should be loose and air-permeable as far as possible.

Why doesn't my mandacaru ever bloom?

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Firstly, it may not be time for the plant to bloom. Time from seedling to blooming can range between 2-20 years or longer. Secondly, the plant may need more sunlight, temperature or fertilizer. Increase the exposure to sunlight and fertilizer appropriately, supplement the fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, or purchase special fertilizer for promoting blooming of mandacaru.

Why does mandacaru turn yellow?

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Mandacaru turns yellow due to overwatering, insufficient sunlight, or pests. Mandacaru does not require much water, and excess water leads to root anoxia and root rot. Generally, it does not need to be watered often. Water it only when the soil is completely dry. Remember to drain the water in the flowerpot tray. Sunlight can be increased, but avoid direct exposure to blazing sunlight to prevent sunburn. Remove a small amount of pests with alcohol. For large infestations, spray pesticide.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
more
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Succulent & cactus soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
15℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
more
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Mandacaru craves generous sun exposure and can thrive under complete solar exposure, bearing testament to its origin habitat where ample sunlight is prevalent. It also adapts well to settings with less exposure to sun though. Lack of sufficient light might impede growth, while too much can scorch the plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Mandacaru is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Mandacaru may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Mandacaru enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Mandacaru require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Mandacaru is indigenous to climates where temperatures range from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), expressing a fondness for warmer environments. Seasonal temperatures should mirror this range to maintain the plant's health and growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Mandacaru is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Mandacaru grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Mandacaru thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Mandacaru should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Mandacaru?
Mandacaru's best time for transplanting is during mid-spring to late summer (S3-S5) because it benefits from the warmth and extended daylight. Select a sunny spot, as mandacaru loves plenty of light. Remember to handle this steadfast succulent with care and wear protective gloves to avoid pricking!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Mandacaru?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Mandacaru?
Transplanting mandacaru is best undertaken in late spring to early summer - the perfect season to encourage growth. Settling mandacaru into its new home during this warm, vibrant period allows for optimal root development, promising a strong and flourishing plant. By transplanting in this season, the plant will have ample time to grow, establishing a solid foundation before the advent of chillier months. Friendly advice to all plant lovers, schedule the move of mandacaru for this wonderful phase, your green friend will thank you!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Mandacaru Plants?
Plan to space your mandacaru apart. A spacing of 3-5 feet (0.91-1.52 meters) is just right. This gives each plant enough room to spread out without crowding one another. Don't forget to mark your spots!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Mandacaru Transplanting?
Mandacaru prefers well-drained sandy or rocky soil. Before transplanting, enrich the soil with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer to ensure a nutrient-rich base. Always wear gloves whilst working with fertilizer to protect your hands.
Where Should You Relocate Your Mandacaru?
Choose a sunny spot for your mandacaru. They absolutely thrive with plenty of sunlight, at least 6-8 hours a day. Avoid spots with constant deep shade as it could stunt their growth. But remember, the more sunlight they get, the better!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Mandacaru?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while digging and handling the mandacaru plant.
Shovel or Spade
This tool is needed for digging holes and removing plants from the ground.
Gardening Trowel
For precise digging and filling soil around the plant during transplanting.
Garden Fork
To carefully lift the mandacaru plant without damaging its roots.
Watering Can
To keep the plant hydrated before, during, and after the transplant process.
Organic Matter/Compost
It helps to improve soil fertility.
How Do You Remove Mandacaru from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the mandacaru plant so the soil will be easy to work with and won't fall apart. Using a shovel or spade, carefully dig around the plant, ensuring the root ball remains undamaged. Once sufficient soil is removed, use a garden fork to lift mandacaru plant carefully ensuring minimum damage to roots.
From Pot: Water the mandacaru plant thoroughly a few hours before the transplant. Gently turn the pot upside down, support the plant with your hand, and tap the bottom to release it. Avoid pulling by the stem or the trunk.
From Seedling Tray: Gently hold the mandacaru seedling by its leaves. Avoid touching the stem as it can easily get bruised. Use a gardening trowel or a dibber to lift the seedling including its root ball out of the tray.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Mandacaru
Preparation
Prepare the new location by digging a hole 2 times larger than the root ball of the mandacaru plant. Add an organic matter or compost to the hole for added nutrients for the plant.
Transfer
Place the mandacaru plant carefully into the new hole. Its roots should spread out and the plant should be at the same depth in the ground as it was in its original location.
Backfill
Use the soil you dug out to backfill the hole, pressing it lightly around the plant. The goal is to eliminate any air pockets without compacting the soil too much.
Watering
After transplanting, water thoroughly using a watering can.
How Do You Care For Mandacaru After Transplanting?
Watering
Gradually reduce the amount of water given to mandacaru plant after transplantation, according to its specific watering requirements. Overwatering can be as fatal to the plant as underwatering.
Protection
To avoid transplant shock, it may be useful to provide the mandacaru plant with some shade using a shade cloth for a few days after transplant.
Observation
Watch out for signs of stress in your mandacaru plant, such as wilted or discolored leaves. If detected, adjust care as necessary.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mandacaru Transplantation.
What is the ideal period for transplanting mandacaru?
The most suitable time to transplant mandacaru is during the late summer to early fall (S3-S5). This period will give mandacaru ample time to adjust and thrive.
How much space should I leave between each mandacaru when transplanting?
Ideally, you should maintain a space of about 3 to 5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters). This helps in proper air circulation and allows for healthy growth of each mandacaru.
Why is my transplanted mandacaru wilting?
Wilting after transplant is usually due to transplant shock. Ensure you're hydrating the plant adequately. However, mandacaru doesn't appreciate an excessive amount of water, it might lead to root rot.
How do I properly remove mandacaru for transplanting without causing damage?
Start by gently digging around the root zone, being careful not to harm the roots. Lift the plant from the base, and ensure to get as much of the root ball as possible.
Should I prune mandacaru before transplanting?
Yes, minimal pruning of older or weaker parts can help the plant direct its energy into developing strong roots in its new location.
What soil type does mandacaru prefer when transplanting?
Mandacaru prefer well-draining soil. Mixing sand or perlite into your garden soil can improve its drainage. Avoid water-logged soils as they can cause root rot.
What is the ideal depth for planting mandacaru during transplanting?
The planting hole should be deep enough to accommodate the root ball. Generally, it should be around the same depth as the pot or ground it was originally growing in.
What kind of care does mandacaru require after transplanting?
Mandacaru needs adequate watering after transplanting but be careful not to overwater. Gradually reduce watering as the plant establishes. They enjoy full sun or light shade.
Can mandacaru be transplanted indoors?
Mandacaru is quite versatile and can indeed be transplanted indoors. However, it needs a spot with plentiful light exposure for optimal growth.
How do I know if my transplanted mandacaru is healthy?
A healthy mandacaru will have a rich, green color, and new growth, either leaves or budding flowers, is usually a good indicator of health.
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_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
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Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
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Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
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_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
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Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
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Cookie Name
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Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
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