When watering the Spider plant, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Spider plant comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care Spider Plant
The spider plant is a green perennial plant with long, thin leaves that earn it another name, "ribbon plant." It has spread far from its native Africa because it is easy to care for. Since spider plants grow well in partial or full shade, they have become popular houseplants.

Symbolism
caring, connections with others

Water
Every week

Sunlight
Full shade





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Basic Care Guide

Water
Spider plant prefers a humid environment and needs continually moist potting soil. In summer, watering is recommended once every morning and evening, and spraying of water to the leaves once or twice a day during vigorous growth to increase air humidity. Water once a day in spring and fall. In winter, the watering frequency can be appropriately reduced, and watering can be done once every 4-5 days. Without regular watering, it may turn yellow and withered and its ornamental value will be reduced. Water thoroughly every time until the soil is saturated and excess water is fully drained from the drain hole at the bottom of the flowerpot.
Water
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What is the best way to water my Spider plant?
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What should I do if I water my Spider plant too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Spider plant, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Spider plant, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Spider plant have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Spider plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Spider plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Spider plant is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Spider plant?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Spider plant needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Spider plant outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Spider plant can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Spider plant need?
When it comes time to water your Spider plant, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Spider plant at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Spider plant can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Spider plant is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Spider plant will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Spider plant will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Spider plant more water at this time.
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How should I water my Spider plant through the seasons?
The Spider plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Spider plant will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Spider plant indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Spider plant indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Spider plant to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Spider plant very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Fertilizer
Nitrogen, phosphate and organic fertilizer are mainly used for spider plant. Apply organic liquid fertilizer every 7-10 days in spring, summer and fall. The growth of spider plant is slow at temperatures higher than 30 ℃ in summer and lower than 10 ℃in winter. Excessive fertilization will lead to accumulation of fertilizer and cause root rot. In that case, fertilization should be avoided or the frequency should be reduced.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Spider plant?
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the Spider plant is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them.
Spider plant needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a Spider plant a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Spider plant?
A Spider plant will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall.
Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your Spider plant about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the Spider plant will have far less active growth.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Spider plant?
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your Spider plant regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your Spider plant has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your Spider plant incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a Spider plant is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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What type of fertilizer does my Spider plant need?
The fertilizer for a Spider plant has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Spider plant while you supply water.
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How do I fertilize my Spider plant?
The fertilizer that you purchase for your Spider plant will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a Spider plant, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots.
If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
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What happens if I fertilize my Spider plant too much?
Since it is advisable to fertilize your Spider plant every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your Spider plant, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration.
Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a Spider plant. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
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Sunlight
Spider plant prefers partial shade environments and is resistant to low light, so it is suitable for growth under medium light conditions. Direct exposure to strong sunlight should be avoided in spring and fall. 50%-70% of the sunlight should be shielded when there is especially strong sunlight in summer. Otherwise, the leaf tips can turn yellow and wither. In winter, the light should be increased to ensure normal growth of plants and fresh, tender green leaves. It should be placed 61 to 152 cm from a sunny window in the room.


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Pruning
Yellow and withered leaves should be pruned right away to avoid nutrient consumption and promote plants to grow new leaves.

Is pruning necessary for my Spider plant?
It is helpful to lightly prune this plant periodically during the spring and summer. When performing this light pruning, you should search for leaves that have wilted, become discolored, show signs of disease, or have died completely. Remove dead or damaged leaves by cutting their petioles, or trimming off stems that have died. This will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Some gardeners also choose to remove the flower buds of the Spider plant. However, removing flower buds before they open is a strictly aesthetic decision that will emphasize the beauty of this plant’s showy leaves.
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When should I prune my Spider plant?
You can prune your Spider plant any time you notice dead, diseased, or damaged leaves during the growing season. Once you notice such a leave, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. you can cut its stem just above the soil’s surface to remove it. Such pruning can take place as needed during spring and summer. Also, this plant can bloom any time between spring and fall, and some gardeners choose to remove flower buds before they have a chance to open. Removing unopened flower buds allows this plant to focus most of its growing energy on its beautiful leaves. However, pruning in this manner does not necessarily influence the plant’s overall health.
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How do I prune my Spider plant?
Pruning the Spider plant is as easy as waiting until you notice dead or damaged leaves on your plant. When you recognize these leaves, equip yourself with a pair of sharp and sterile hand pruning shears. Hand pruning shears will work best as larger tools like loppers will not be well suited to the precise cuts you need to make. Once you have a proper set of pruning tools, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Cut the stem just above where it exits the soil to remove it entirely. If you wish to stop this plant from flowering, you can use the same pruning shears to remove any buds before they open. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Spider plant?
Since pruning for the Spider plant should take place periodically throughout the season, what you do after pruning can vary. For instance, if you prune to remove selected leaves and stems from your Spider plant, you won’t need to do anything except continue your regular maintenance routine. At times, you may choose to remove healthier leaves and include them in a display of cut flowers and foliage. However, there is no crucial maintenance task to perform for this plant after typical pruning. The only thing to note is that when watering after pruning, you need to be careful not to touch the wound to prevent fungus from infecting the plant through the fresh wound. Placing Spider plant in a well-ventilated location will also help the wounds to dry out and heal in time. The timely replenishment of Spider plant after pruning will help the Spider plant to recover as soon as possible.
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Are there any important tips when pruning my Spider plant?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. As you are pruning your Spider plant, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. If the overall growth of the plant is weak, the flowers need to be pruned back in time for flowering to be able to save nutrients for leaf growth and allow the plant to grow more vigorously.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Spider plant originates from southern Africa. It prefers warm and humid environments and has good adaptability. It grows at temperatures in the range of 13 to 27 ℃, preferably at 20 to 24 ℃. It may stop growing above 30 ℃ and grow slowly or be dormant at very low temperatures. Its overwintering temperature is not lower than 10 ℃ due to its poor cold resistance. It is more adaptive in a humid environment, but it is also tolerant of drought. It is better for the air to be moist when planting. If the air is dry, the leaves of the plant will curl or the leaf tip will turn yellow and withered.

What is the optimal temperature for Spider plant?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Spider plant require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Spider plant doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Spider plant need different temperatures for different seasons?
Spider plant does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Spider plant healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Spider plant?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Spider plant is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Soil
Spider plant has good adaptability to soil and is more suitable to grow in soil that is permeable and well-drained, loose and fertile, rich in humus, and with a pH value of 6-7. The potting culture medium should not be a single type of soil. It can be leaf mold or peat mixed with garden soil and river sand in equal volume. A small amount of fertilizer can be added as base fertilizer. The culture medium can also be composed of leaf mold and sandy soil mixed with a ratio of 3:7. Roots are prone to rot in cases of standing water and poor ventilation at the bottom of the pot. Changing the soil once a year is recommended and potting at least once every two years to ensure flourishing growth.


Propagation

Planting
The reproduction method of spider plant is generally division propagation, and seed reproduction is rarely used. Division propagation can be carried out in all seasons except cold winters. Dense mother plants can be divided into multiple clusters and planted respectively when repotting in spring; small stolon plants can also be cut for planting. It is recommended to select well-drained and permeable cultivated soil that is rich in nutrition and can maintain moisture and fertilizer during reproduction, and transplant the plant into flowerpots after the root system is mature. The size of the flowerpot should be adapted to the size of the seedlings during cultivation. If the pot is too large, the seedlings will recover slowly and not grow well, but if the pot is too small, it will not have enough nutrition supply.
Propagation
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Spider plant is generally repotted in spring. The size of the flowerpot should not be too large, just a little larger than the root ball, because the roots of spider plant prefer to grow in a relatively closed environment. Cut withered, decayed, or redundant roots and replace the soil with new loose soil rich in humus when repotting. After planting, place it in a warm place with partial shade to allow it to recover slowly for 10-20 days. In the seedling stage, the root system is relatively weak and has poor nutrient absorption capacity. In environments with strong light or low temperature, it needs to consume more energy, which is not conducive to growth and recovery of the root system.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Attention should be paid to shading when the light is strong in summer. 50%-70% of the sunlight should be shielded during the day to prevent the leaves from yellowing and withering. In hot weather, stop fertilizing, keep the potting soil moist, and spray water on the leaves to cool. Increase humidity in dry weather. In winter, spider plant grows slowly. Reduce watering frequency and fertilization, and prevent root rot caused by accumulated water and fertilizer to promote growth and flowering of plants the following spring.


Summer

Fall

Winter
Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.

2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.

4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.

5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.
As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

1
Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer

2
Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.

3
You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.

4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.

5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.
This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

1
At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.

2
The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.

3
It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Spider plant based on 10 million real cases



Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.



Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.



Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.



Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.

Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.

Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.

Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.

Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.

Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue

Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.

Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.

Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!

Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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More About Spider Plant

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
30 to 60 cm

Bloom Time
Summer

Flower Color
White

Leaf Color
White
Green
Variegated

Flower Size
1.6 to 2 cm

Plant Height
15 to 60 cm
Name story
Spider plant
Its leaves grow from the center of the plant spreading to the surrounding areas, like long-legged spiders. It is often raised hanging in the air like spiders climbing on spider webs, which is why it is called spider plant.
Usages
Artistic Value
Chinese poets often praise spider plants in their poems.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and absorb formaldehyde.
Garden Use
Spider plant is an evergreen herbaceous perennial commonly found in tropical gardens. It is prized for its year-round arching, drooping bi-color foliage. Its bushy shape makes it suitable for beds, borders, or edging footpaths. Spider plant is good for Mediterranean or drought-tolerant gardens. Suggested companion plants include Angel’s Trumpet or Bird of Paradise to make a color contrast.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow and become withered?


Possible reasons for leaf yellowing are: ① lack of light over long periods of time; ② too high of a fertilization concentration, resulting in root damage; ③ wet soil over a long period of time. The possible causes of leaf withering are: ① too much light; ② too low of air humidity. Cut yellow and withered leaves and carry out corresponding treatment. Adjust the placement and give appropriate light. Avoid excessive fertilization or watering and replace culture medium by repotting. If air humidity is too low, increase it by spraying water mist.
Why do the leaf tips wither?


The air humidity is too low; the soil is dry and there is not enough water over a long period of time; direct sunlight or exposure; or excessive pesticides or fertilizers. The withered leaf tip is generally irreversible. Cut it gently with scissors. Keep the air moist, avoid long-term strong direct sunlight, and prevent the application of excessive pesticides or fertilizers.
How do you deal with root rot?


Reduce the water supply and control the amount of watering. Repot/transplant, namely, replace the soil with a well-drained and permeable culture medium, and use appropriate materials according to recommendations to avoid excess moisture in the soil. Ensure smooth drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot and avoid standing water in the tray. Use scissors to prune the root system and cut the rotten parts. Place the plant in a well-ventilated environment.
What should be given attention when repotting plants?


The roots of spider plant are luxuriant. The roots systems should be trimmed to remove rotten and redundant root when repotting. The size of the flowerpot should be adapted to the size of the plant, preferably one that is a little larger than the plant. Don't water a lot during the recovery period after repotting, which will shorten the seedling recovery time.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to care Spider Plant
The spider plant is a green perennial plant with long, thin leaves that earn it another name, "ribbon plant." It has spread far from its native Africa because it is easy to care for. Since spider plants grow well in partial or full shade, they have become popular houseplants.

Symbolism
caring, connections with others

Water
Every week

Sunlight
Full shade

Basic Care Guide

Water

Spider plant prefers a humid environment and needs continually moist potting soil. In summer, watering is recommended once every morning and evening, and spraying of water to the leaves once or twice a day during vigorous growth to increase air humidity. Water once a day in spring and fall. In winter, the watering frequency can be appropriately reduced, and watering can be done once every 4-5 days. Without regular watering, it may turn yellow and withered and its ornamental value will be reduced. Water thoroughly every time until the soil is saturated and excess water is fully drained from the drain hole at the bottom of the flowerpot.

Water
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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Spider plant?

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Fertilizer

Nitrogen, phosphate and organic fertilizer are mainly used for spider plant. Apply organic liquid fertilizer every 7-10 days in spring, summer and fall. The growth of spider plant is slow at temperatures higher than 30 ℃ in summer and lower than 10 ℃in winter. Excessive fertilization will lead to accumulation of fertilizer and cause root rot. In that case, fertilization should be avoided or the frequency should be reduced.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Spider plant?

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Sunlight

Spider plant prefers partial shade environments and is resistant to low light, so it is suitable for growth under medium light conditions. Direct exposure to strong sunlight should be avoided in spring and fall. 50%-70% of the sunlight should be shielded when there is especially strong sunlight in summer. Otherwise, the leaf tips can turn yellow and wither. In winter, the light should be increased to ensure normal growth of plants and fresh, tender green leaves. It should be placed 61 to 152 cm from a sunny window in the room.

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Pruning

Yellow and withered leaves should be pruned right away to avoid nutrient consumption and promote plants to grow new leaves.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Spider plant originates from southern Africa. It prefers warm and humid environments and has good adaptability. It grows at temperatures in the range of 13 to 27 ℃, preferably at 20 to 24 ℃. It may stop growing above 30 ℃ and grow slowly or be dormant at very low temperatures. Its overwintering temperature is not lower than 10 ℃ due to its poor cold resistance. It is more adaptive in a humid environment, but it is also tolerant of drought. It is better for the air to be moist when planting. If the air is dry, the leaves of the plant will curl or the leaf tip will turn yellow and withered.
What is the optimal temperature for Spider plant?

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Does Spider plant require different temperatures for different growing phases?


Does Spider plant need different temperatures for different seasons?


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Soil

Spider plant has good adaptability to soil and is more suitable to grow in soil that is permeable and well-drained, loose and fertile, rich in humus, and with a pH value of 6-7. The potting culture medium should not be a single type of soil. It can be leaf mold or peat mixed with garden soil and river sand in equal volume. A small amount of fertilizer can be added as base fertilizer. The culture medium can also be composed of leaf mold and sandy soil mixed with a ratio of 3:7. Roots are prone to rot in cases of standing water and poor ventilation at the bottom of the pot. Changing the soil once a year is recommended and potting at least once every two years to ensure flourishing growth.

Propagation

Planting

The reproduction method of spider plant is generally division propagation, and seed reproduction is rarely used. Division propagation can be carried out in all seasons except cold winters. Dense mother plants can be divided into multiple clusters and planted respectively when repotting in spring; small stolon plants can also be cut for planting. It is recommended to select well-drained and permeable cultivated soil that is rich in nutrition and can maintain moisture and fertilizer during reproduction, and transplant the plant into flowerpots after the root system is mature. The size of the flowerpot should be adapted to the size of the seedlings during cultivation. If the pot is too large, the seedlings will recover slowly and not grow well, but if the pot is too small, it will not have enough nutrition supply.

Propagation
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Spider plant is generally repotted in spring. The size of the flowerpot should not be too large, just a little larger than the root ball, because the roots of spider plant prefer to grow in a relatively closed environment. Cut withered, decayed, or redundant roots and replace the soil with new loose soil rich in humus when repotting. After planting, place it in a warm place with partial shade to allow it to recover slowly for 10-20 days. In the seedling stage, the root system is relatively weak and has poor nutrient absorption capacity. In environments with strong light or low temperature, it needs to consume more energy, which is not conducive to growth and recovery of the root system.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Attention should be paid to shading when the light is strong in summer. 50%-70% of the sunlight should be shielded during the day to prevent the leaves from yellowing and withering. In hot weather, stop fertilizing, keep the potting soil moist, and spray water on the leaves to cool. Increase humidity in dry weather. In winter, spider plant grows slowly. Reduce watering frequency and fertilization, and prevent root rot caused by accumulated water and fertilizer to promote growth and flowering of plants the following spring.

Summer

Fall

Winter
Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.

2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.

4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.

5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.
As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

1
Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer

2
Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.

3
You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.

4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.

5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.
This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

1
At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.

2
The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.

3
It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Spider plant based on 10 million real cases
Leaf tips withering



Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
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Leaf scorch



Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More

Leaf rot



This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More

Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Underwatering



Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Scars



Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.

Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.

Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.

Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.

Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.

Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue

Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.

Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.

Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!

Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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More About Spider Plant

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
30 to 60 cm

Bloom Time
Summer

Flower Color
White

Leaf Color
White
Green
Variegated

Flower Size
1.6 to 2 cm

Plant Height
15 to 60 cm
Name story
Spider plant
Its leaves grow from the center of the plant spreading to the surrounding areas, like long-legged spiders. It is often raised hanging in the air like spiders climbing on spider webs, which is why it is called spider plant.
Usages
Artistic Value
Chinese poets often praise spider plants in their poems.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and absorb formaldehyde.
Garden Use
Spider plant is an evergreen herbaceous perennial commonly found in tropical gardens. It is prized for its year-round arching, drooping bi-color foliage. Its bushy shape makes it suitable for beds, borders, or edging footpaths. Spider plant is good for Mediterranean or drought-tolerant gardens. Suggested companion plants include Angel’s Trumpet or Bird of Paradise to make a color contrast.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow and become withered?


Possible reasons for leaf yellowing are: ① lack of light over long periods of time; ② too high of a fertilization concentration, resulting in root damage; ③ wet soil over a long period of time. The possible causes of leaf withering are: ① too much light; ② too low of air humidity. Cut yellow and withered leaves and carry out corresponding treatment. Adjust the placement and give appropriate light. Avoid excessive fertilization or watering and replace culture medium by repotting. If air humidity is too low, increase it by spraying water mist.
Why do the leaf tips wither?


The air humidity is too low; the soil is dry and there is not enough water over a long period of time; direct sunlight or exposure; or excessive pesticides or fertilizers. The withered leaf tip is generally irreversible. Cut it gently with scissors. Keep the air moist, avoid long-term strong direct sunlight, and prevent the application of excessive pesticides or fertilizers.
How do you deal with root rot?


Reduce the water supply and control the amount of watering. Repot/transplant, namely, replace the soil with a well-drained and permeable culture medium, and use appropriate materials according to recommendations to avoid excess moisture in the soil. Ensure smooth drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot and avoid standing water in the tray. Use scissors to prune the root system and cut the rotten parts. Place the plant in a well-ventilated environment.
What should be given attention when repotting plants?


The roots of spider plant are luxuriant. The roots systems should be trimmed to remove rotten and redundant root when repotting. The size of the flowerpot should be adapted to the size of the plant, preferably one that is a little larger than the plant. Don't water a lot during the recovery period after repotting, which will shorten the seedling recovery time.


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