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FAQ

How to care Garden Croton

The garden croton is a showy tropical display that does well indoors or in warm climates. Known for its attractive foliage, this plant can have both color and structural variations in its leaves. Leaf colors can include orange, yellow, scarlet, white, and green, and many times all are present on one plant.
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Water
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Every 1-2 weeks
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Garden croton is not drought resistant and requires sufficient moisture and humidity. However, it cannot withstand accumulated water. When planting, select pots with drainage holes to facilitate drainage and avoid root rot caused by waterlogging. During indoor planting, it is generally necessary to add water till water seeps out of the drain from the bottom of the flowerpot, and pour away the excessive water. Keep the soil evenly moist, but do not let the potted plants soak in water. Watering should be reduced in fall and winter to once every two weeks to avoid drying the soil completely.
Place the pot on a pebble tray with water, or even use an air humidifier, to replenish the humidity. It is best to spray regularly in the growing season to achieve optimal growth. In addition, wipe the leaves with a wet cloth regularly to remove dust and impurities, keep the leaves clean, shiny and colorful, and increase the humidity.
When planting outdoors, if the growing season receives less than 2.5 cm of rain, it is necessary to water garden croton every week. During the dormancy period in winter, only add water when the top layer of the soil is dry. When planting outdoors, more water is needed than indoors due to sunlight, wind, and other factors. Water in the morning, and water directly to the soil to avoid water splashing the leaves as much as possible. It is easy to cause disease if in a high humidity for long.

Water

Ground Garden croton watering
In some cases, your Garden croton may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors.
When a Garden croton is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Garden croton that you have transplanted to a new growing location. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Garden croton a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Potted Garden croton watering
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Garden croton . The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of your Garden croton ’s growing environment. Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Garden croton . Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Garden croton will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Underwater and overwater
When your Garden croton is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Garden croton , you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Garden croton from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Garden croton in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Garden croton , simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Garden croton can rely on rain most of the time.
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Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Garden croton?
Your Garden croton will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Garden croton. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Garden croton. However, the Garden croton usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Garden croton too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Garden croton can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Garden croton is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Garden croton, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Garden croton from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Garden croton in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Garden croton, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Garden croton?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Garden croton is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Garden croton. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Garden croton .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Garden croton need?
When it comes time to water your Garden croton, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Garden croton by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Garden croton gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Garden croton is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Garden croton is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Garden croton a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Garden croton enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Garden croton, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Garden croton will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Garden croton will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Garden croton.
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How can I water my Garden croton at different growth stages?
When the Garden croton is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Garden croton that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Garden croton can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Garden croton is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Garden croton through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Garden croton. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Garden croton will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Garden croton indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Garden croton may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

During the active growth season of garden croton (namely spring and summer), apply water-soluble fertilizer (slow-release granular fertilizers) or liquid fertilizer diluted by half. Avoid adding fertilizer directly to dry soil. Instead, add some water before adding fertilizer. Meanwhile, apply less fertilizer or stop it completely during winter.

Fertilizer

Garden croton typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Garden croton is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Garden croton, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Garden croton the right way.
The primary reason why Garden croton needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Garden croton must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Garden croton will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Garden croton will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Garden croton will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Garden croton is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Garden croton will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Garden croton has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Garden croton while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Garden croton is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Garden croton lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Garden croton.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Garden croton should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Garden croton are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Garden croton water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Garden croton. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Garden croton will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Garden croton will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Garden croton?
The primary reason why Garden croton needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Garden croton must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures.
If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Garden croton will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Garden croton will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Garden croton?
Garden croton will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Garden croton is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes.
During the growing season, your Garden croton will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Garden croton?
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Garden croton. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Garden croton will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Garden croton will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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What type of fertilizer does my Garden croton need?
The fertilizer for a Garden croton has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Garden croton while you supply water.
Read More more
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How do I fertilize my Garden croton?
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Garden croton is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots.
Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Garden croton lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Garden croton.
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What happens if I fertilize my Garden croton too much?
The signs of improper fertilization for a Garden croton should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Garden croton are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Garden croton water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Garden croton prefers bright but indirect illumination. Place indoor plants in a bright place near the windowsill to get the best leaf color. It likes mottled sunlight with shade rather than direct sunlight. Use curtains to reduce strong sunlight on summer afternoons . Likewise, partial shade is required for outdoor planting.
Light conditions have a great influence on the color of leaves, so try to provide sufficient bright sunlight. When sunlight is insufficient, the color of the leaves will fade and turn green, and the leaves may fall. Generally speaking, the greater the amount of sunlight, the richer the color.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Garden croton need per day?
Garden croton needs a lot of indirect, filtered, or dappled light when grown indoors, so they should be kept in a sunny location all day. Of course, the number of daylight hours that occur naturally can vary depending on the season, but a good rule of thumb is a minimum of 6 hours, including up to 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Even many hours of indirect sun will not hurt Garden croton; it is only direct sun that you need to be careful about.
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What type of sunlight does Garden croton need?
Garden croton in the wild get a lot of sunlight throughout the whole day. The sunlight is dappled and mostly indirect since it is filtered through the leafy canopy of tall trees growing above. When grown indoors, Garden croton should be provided with bright indirect light in a sunny windowsill or via grow lights.
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Does Garden croton need to avoid sun exposure?
Garden croton does not need to avoid sun exposure completely, but the type of sunlight should be appropriate. They should not be exposed to more than 6 hours of direct sun each day. Direct sun means that the sunlight is hitting the plant directly. Indirect light could be reflected off other objects near the plant, or could be direct sun that is filtered by something such as a sheer curtain. So Garden croton should be protected from excessive direct sun.
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How should I protect Garden croton from sun and heat damage?
Sunlight can hurt Garden croton that are not adapted to growing in direct sun. There are several ways to protect Garden croton from bright sunlight. First, choose a location that gets indirect light for most of the day. If the location is too bright, move the plant farther into the room away from the window. Or, you can cover the window with a light curtain or blinds. Any of these methods protect your Garden croton from both sun scorching and excessive heat from the sun.
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What happens to Garden croton if it gets too much sunlight?
Too much direct sunlight will scorch the plant’s leaves, especially the upper leaves which are hit with the majority of the sun’s rays. Scorched spots on the leaves look brown and dry. Entire leaves may also wilt and turn brown. Being grown in full sun can cause the soil to dry out too quickly. In extreme cases, too much sun could kill the plant.
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What happens to Garden croton if it receives insufficient sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Garden croton become etiolated (tall and stretched out) and lose color in their leaves. Over time, the plant is not able to generate enough energy through photosynthesis to support its continued survival, and will die if it is kept in a dark location.
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Does Garden croton need special attention to sunlight during different growth stages?
Garden croton should get bright indirect light regardless of their growth stage. If anything, consistency in lighting conditions will get you the best results. Once you’ve found a location where your plants are happy, it is best not to move them. However, you should monitor the location and move plants if sunlight gets too intense during summer or becomes too dark in winter.
The amount of light can affect other elements of plant care as well, particularly temperature and watering frequency. More sunlight and heat will cause water to evaporate from the soil faster, meaning you would need to water more often. Less sunlight also usually means less watering, and usually cooler temperatures. This can lead to disease or pests.
Finally, be careful when moving Garden croton from a shady location to a sunny one, such as moving plants to spend the summer outside. Garden croton can easily get sunburned if they are moved suddenly from a location with little-to-no direct sun to a spot that gets a lot of bright light. Make this kind of move gradually, starting with just 1 to 2 hours in the new location per day and gradually increasing the time. This method allows the plant to adjust to the increased light levels without getting scorched.
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How much light does Garden croton need for photosynthesis?
Even the smallest amount of sunlight triggers the process of photosynthesis in plants. However, the amount of energy produced through that process needs to be enough to support the plant’s current survival and continued growth. Without plenty of sunlight, the plant will essentially starve because it doesn’t have what it needs to create energy.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

In general, garden croton tends to grow more dense when it is not being pruned. It is not necessary to prune it frequently. If you want to promote the growth of new branches in young plants, prune the tip of the plant. When it grows too large, prune off overgrown branches and unhealthy leaves.
Toxic white and milky sap will flow from the point of incision, so wear gloves for pruning. It is not necessary to prune withered leaves, because when the nutrients are completely absorbed by the plant, they will fall off or can be removed easily. If the plant grows thin and slender, prune it in during the growing season and then place it outdoors until the plant grows new branches and leaves again.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Garden croton?
The Garden croton is a low-maintenance, winter-hardy, and drought-resistant evergreen perennial plant. This means it can thrive almost anywhere. This unique plant grows well indoors, as well as in many outdoor environments. To keep yours in good health, it’s recommended that you prune it only as needed to control growth and maintain shape. This popular shurb can take up quite a bit of room if left to grow freely. Given enough time, it can be pruned to grow into a small tree. Garden croton is very resilient and learning how to prune them is easy.
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When is the best time to prune my Garden croton?
A lot of new gardeners shy away from pruning the Garden croton because they’re afraid to cut too much. Luckily, Garden croton is generally considered to be among the easier and more forgiving plants to prune since regrowth appears quite quickly. Although these perennials are relatively fast-growing, you only need to prune when you spot unsightly overgrowth or damaged leaves. In other words, if your Garden croton starts to look uneven or damaged, it may be a good time to prune. If you want to control the size of Garden croton, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Garden croton is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Garden croton.
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What should I do after pruning my Garden croton?
When pruning your Garden croton, always use freshly cleaned shears to prevent the possibility of cross-contamination from other plants. The Garden croton has a high tolerance for drought and cold weather, and can even survive irregular watering schedules for short periods. When grown indoors, it prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 °F and should be kept away from air conditioning drafts to prevent discoloration, leaf fall, and other damage.
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How should I prune my Garden croton during different seasons or stages of growth?
The good news is that these plants have a medium growth rate which means they cycle through growth stages fairly quickly. Once your plant matures, you can follow normal pruning methods. Garden croton is mainly used for leaf viewing, flowers have no ornamental value and will consume nutrients, you can prune the flowers when the plant is in bloom and concentrate the nutrients for the growth of the leaves. If you want to control the size of Garden croton, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Garden croton is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Garden croton.
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What tools, techniques and tricks should I use when pruning my Garden croton?
Before getting started, it’s best to have a plan. Try to visualize the basic shape and style of how you want your plant to look. Having a goal in mind will help you choose what pruning method and tools to use. Once you have an idea of how you want it to look, it’s time to get ready to prune. Tools Sharp scissors or a pair of hand pruners work great when pruning your Garden croton. However, if you keep your Garden croton outdoors or allow it to grow freely, you may need a tree pruner to reach higher leaves. How to prune When learning how to prune your Garden croton, factors like growth stage, climate, and the current season will give you clues about your plant's pruning needs. Additionally, how you want your plant to look is another thing to consider. If you want to control the size of Garden croton, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. For example, if you want your plant to be short and round, cutting from the top and pruning any leggy parts will be your best bet. If you want a tall, slender appearance, cut from the bottom and sides to limit the spread of growth to encourage vertical growth. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. To simplify the process, here are a few tips to remember:
  1. Leave the main stalk in place and trim around it.
  2. Trim off any dead or unhealthy-looking branches and remove or cut any “suckers”
  3. Use shears, scissors, or your fingers to cut or pinch just below the bud, branch, or stem.
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What are common problems when pruning my Garden croton and how can I fix them?
One major concern when it comes to pruning the Garden croton is the possibility of mites, disease, and infection from the laceration left behind after pruning. This can be lessened by pruning at an angle and monitoring the site until healed. Additionally, taking special care to not overwater to prevent the soil from becoming too damp can minimize the risk of spider mites and aphids.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Garden croton is not cold-resistant and prefers a warm, humid growing environment. The surrounding temperature should be between 16 to 29 ℃. It is necessary to avoid exposing plants to cold air currents or dramatic temperature swings. When the temperature reaches too low (below 13 to 16 ℃), it will begin to lose its leaves. The plant can withstand a low temperature of 10 ℃ for a short time, but it will not survive if the temperature is below 8 ℃ for very long. Try to maintain 60% or higher relative humidity of the air around plants, and avoid low temperatures or a dry environment.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Garden croton?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Garden croton require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Garden croton doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Garden croton need different temperatures for different seasons?
Garden croton does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Garden croton healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Garden croton?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Garden croton is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Garden croton prefers humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5-6. Unfortunately, it can't stand drought or waterlogging. Select loose and permeable soil, such as a soil mixture mainly composed of peat moss. For example, the ratio of thick peat: leaf mound: sand should be 3:3:2.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

As sowing seeds cannot guarantee the plants will inherit the phenotypic trait, people usually use stem cuttings to propagate it in order to maintain the same phenotypic trait as the mother plant. During the growth period of garden croton, select a healthy stem from 10 to 15 cm long, and cut with a sharp knife. Immerse the end of the stem segment in water, or dip it in charcoal powder, dry it, and then insert it into a culture medium of 1:1 mixture of wet peat moss and coarse sand or perlite.
Add water until excess water overflows from the bottom of the container, and then cover with a transparent cover or plastic bag to provide a humid and warm environment for the cutting section (at a temperature around 27 ℃). Place it in medium sunlight and water it regularly. Wait until roots are formed under the stem and start to grow into a new plant, and then transplant into a pot. Remember to wear gloves throughout the whole procedure to avoid getting skin irritation from the sap.

Propagation

Garden croton provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Garden croton grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Garden croton has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Garden croton. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Garden croton by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Garden croton should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Garden croton are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Garden croton in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Garden croton a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Garden croton, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Garden croton to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Garden croton regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Garden croton on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
When the size of the garden croton grows larger than expected, repot or prune it. The pruned segments of stem can be used to grow new plants. If the roots are growing out from the bottom of the pot, it's ready to be repotted. Generally, it is recommended to repot in spring, transplanting into a bigger pot, preferably with drainage holes. Place a tray with pebbles under the pot to ensure smooth drainage.
When the plant grows to the desired size, stop repotting to limit the growth. Replace the top layer of the soil to a depth of 5 to 8 cm every year, preferably soil with good drainage and rich organic matter. Avoid injuring the root of the plant in the process.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots. When grown too large for the pot, it should be repotted and replanted.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, shade the plants to avoid direct exposure to the sun, and spray some water to increase humidity. In winter, keep the temperature above 16 ℃ and water less frequently. As a tropical plant, it is poor at resisting cold. If your area gets cold in winter, place the plant outdoors before the first frost.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Garden croton based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
Garden croton contains toxins that will elicit a reaction by coming in contact with the sap or via puncture wounds from the thorns. A rash will occur in the affected area. Ingestion of garden croton is also dangerous, especially to small children who may be attracted to its colorful leaves, and can result in vomiting, rash, and diarrhea.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Garden Croton

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
All year around
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Orange
Flower Size
Flower Size
5 to 15 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 to 3 m

Name story

Garden croton
Codiaeum variegatum, also known as Croton variegatum, is as toxic as most Euphorbiaceae plants. It contains an oil that can cause severe diarrhea, like croton. It is often planted in gardens, so it’s also called the garden croton.

Usages

Garden Use
Garden croton is an evergreen woody shrub commonly found in tropical gardens. It is prized for its colorful foliage and interesting leaf formations. Its large leaves and shape make it suitable for landscape hedges and borders. Garden croton is appropriate for tropical-style ornamental gardens. Suggested companion plants include Coleus or Lantana to make color contrasts.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of garden croton losing their rich colors and turning green?

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The bright, rich color of the leaves of garden croton is largely dependent on adequate sunlight. When sunlight is insufficient, the leaves gradually turn green and lose their color. Try to move them to a place with more sunlight, such as near a window; or place them outdoors for some time during warm weather. Their color often fades naturally in winter.
Likewise, parts of leaves may lose their color under excessive exposure to light, especially long-term exposure to direct sunlight. If so, move it to a cool place for a while, or place it slightly away from the window. Surrounding temperatures and nutritional conditions also affect the condition of the leaves.

Why is my garden croton growing skinny and tall?

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It may be due to a lack of sunlight, as different varieties prefer different intensities of sunlight. When purchasing the plant, you should be clear about its needs in terms of sunlight. In general, plants will grow denser gradually with increasing sunlight exposure. However, allow the plants some time to adapt to brighter sunlight to prevent leaf damage.

Why are the leaves of my garden croton falling off?

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There are many reasons for the leaves falling off, most commonly insufficient sunlight, dry air, and too much or too little water. As new plants adapt to their new environment, symptoms such as falling leaves may appear, so consider each of its needs. The keys to keeping garden croton healthy is sufficient sunlight exposure; a warm, stable, windless environment; and moist soil and air. Avoid moving the plant frequently and keep it away from heat sources and vents.

Why are the leaves of my garden croton turning yellow?

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Leaves often turn yellow due to poor drainage, or water accumulation. In this scenario, replace the current soil with loose, well-drained soil. Water quality may also cause the leaves to turn yellow. Calcareous water (high in calcium carbonate) increases the pH value of soil, affects the vitality of the plant, and causes the plant leaves to wither. It is highly recommended to use filtered rainwater or tap water that has sat for some time (allowing minerals to dissipate).

Why are the leaves turning brown on the edges or tips?

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Browning of the edge of a leaf may be due to low temperature. If the tip of the leaf turns brown and is accompanied by defoliation or brown leaf spots with wilting symptoms, it may be due to the dry air or soil and low humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to provide an environment with sufficient humidity and water moisture for the plant.
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Garden croton
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Garden croton
Garden croton
Garden croton

How to care Garden Croton

The garden croton is a showy tropical display that does well indoors or in warm climates. Known for its attractive foliage, this plant can have both color and structural variations in its leaves. Leaf colors can include orange, yellow, scarlet, white, and green, and many times all are present on one plant.
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Symbolism

change, beneficial transition
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Garden croton is not drought resistant and requires sufficient moisture and humidity. However, it cannot withstand accumulated water. When planting, select pots with drainage holes to facilitate drainage and avoid root rot caused by waterlogging. During indoor planting, it is generally necessary to add water till water seeps out of the drain from the bottom of the flowerpot, and pour away the excessive water. Keep the soil evenly moist, but do not let the potted plants soak in water. Watering should be reduced in fall and winter to once every two weeks to avoid drying the soil completely.
Place the pot on a pebble tray with water, or even use an air humidifier, to replenish the humidity. It is best to spray regularly in the growing season to achieve optimal growth. In addition, wipe the leaves with a wet cloth regularly to remove dust and impurities, keep the leaves clean, shiny and colorful, and increase the humidity.
When planting outdoors, if the growing season receives less than 2.5 cm of rain, it is necessary to water garden croton every week. During the dormancy period in winter, only add water when the top layer of the soil is dry. When planting outdoors, more water is needed than indoors due to sunlight, wind, and other factors. Water in the morning, and water directly to the soil to avoid water splashing the leaves as much as possible. It is easy to cause disease if in a high humidity for long.
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Water

Ground Garden croton watering
In some cases, your Garden croton may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors.
When a Garden croton is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Garden croton that you have transplanted to a new growing location. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Garden croton a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Potted Garden croton watering
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Garden croton . The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of your Garden croton ’s growing environment. Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Garden croton . Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Garden croton will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Underwater and overwater
When your Garden croton is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Garden croton , you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Garden croton from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Garden croton in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Garden croton , simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Garden croton can rely on rain most of the time.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
During the active growth season of garden croton (namely spring and summer), apply water-soluble fertilizer (slow-release granular fertilizers) or liquid fertilizer diluted by half. Avoid adding fertilizer directly to dry soil. Instead, add some water before adding fertilizer. Meanwhile, apply less fertilizer or stop it completely during winter.
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Fertilizer

Garden croton typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Garden croton is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Garden croton, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Garden croton the right way.
The primary reason why Garden croton needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Garden croton must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Garden croton will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Garden croton will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Garden croton will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Garden croton is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Garden croton will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Garden croton has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Garden croton while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Garden croton is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Garden croton lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Garden croton.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Garden croton should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Garden croton are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Garden croton water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Garden croton. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Garden croton will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Garden croton will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Garden croton prefers bright but indirect illumination. Place indoor plants in a bright place near the windowsill to get the best leaf color. It likes mottled sunlight with shade rather than direct sunlight. Use curtains to reduce strong sunlight on summer afternoons . Likewise, partial shade is required for outdoor planting.
Light conditions have a great influence on the color of leaves, so try to provide sufficient bright sunlight. When sunlight is insufficient, the color of the leaves will fade and turn green, and the leaves may fall. Generally speaking, the greater the amount of sunlight, the richer the color.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In general, garden croton tends to grow more dense when it is not being pruned. It is not necessary to prune it frequently. If you want to promote the growth of new branches in young plants, prune the tip of the plant. When it grows too large, prune off overgrown branches and unhealthy leaves.
Toxic white and milky sap will flow from the point of incision, so wear gloves for pruning. It is not necessary to prune withered leaves, because when the nutrients are completely absorbed by the plant, they will fall off or can be removed easily. If the plant grows thin and slender, prune it in during the growing season and then place it outdoors until the plant grows new branches and leaves again.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Garden croton is not cold-resistant and prefers a warm, humid growing environment. The surrounding temperature should be between 16 to 29 ℃. It is necessary to avoid exposing plants to cold air currents or dramatic temperature swings. When the temperature reaches too low (below 13 to 16 ℃), it will begin to lose its leaves. The plant can withstand a low temperature of 10 ℃ for a short time, but it will not survive if the temperature is below 8 ℃ for very long. Try to maintain 60% or higher relative humidity of the air around plants, and avoid low temperatures or a dry environment.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Garden croton prefers humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5-6. Unfortunately, it can't stand drought or waterlogging. Select loose and permeable soil, such as a soil mixture mainly composed of peat moss. For example, the ratio of thick peat: leaf mound: sand should be 3:3:2.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
As sowing seeds cannot guarantee the plants will inherit the phenotypic trait, people usually use stem cuttings to propagate it in order to maintain the same phenotypic trait as the mother plant. During the growth period of garden croton, select a healthy stem from 10 to 15 cm long, and cut with a sharp knife. Immerse the end of the stem segment in water, or dip it in charcoal powder, dry it, and then insert it into a culture medium of 1:1 mixture of wet peat moss and coarse sand or perlite.
Add water until excess water overflows from the bottom of the container, and then cover with a transparent cover or plastic bag to provide a humid and warm environment for the cutting section (at a temperature around 27 ℃). Place it in medium sunlight and water it regularly. Wait until roots are formed under the stem and start to grow into a new plant, and then transplant into a pot. Remember to wear gloves throughout the whole procedure to avoid getting skin irritation from the sap.
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Propagation

Garden croton provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Garden croton grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Garden croton has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Garden croton. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Garden croton by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Garden croton should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Garden croton are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Garden croton in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Garden croton a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Garden croton, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Garden croton to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Garden croton regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Garden croton on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When the size of the garden croton grows larger than expected, repot or prune it. The pruned segments of stem can be used to grow new plants. If the roots are growing out from the bottom of the pot, it's ready to be repotted. Generally, it is recommended to repot in spring, transplanting into a bigger pot, preferably with drainage holes. Place a tray with pebbles under the pot to ensure smooth drainage.
When the plant grows to the desired size, stop repotting to limit the growth. Replace the top layer of the soil to a depth of 5 to 8 cm every year, preferably soil with good drainage and rich organic matter. Avoid injuring the root of the plant in the process.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots. When grown too large for the pot, it should be repotted and replanted.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, shade the plants to avoid direct exposure to the sun, and spray some water to increase humidity. In winter, keep the temperature above 16 ℃ and water less frequently. As a tropical plant, it is poor at resisting cold. If your area gets cold in winter, place the plant outdoors before the first frost.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Garden croton based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot  Leaf rot  Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars  Caterpillars  Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
  1. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
  2. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
  2. You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Garden croton contains toxins that will elicit a reaction by coming in contact with the sap or via puncture wounds from the thorns. A rash will occur in the affected area. Ingestion of garden croton is also dangerous, especially to small children who may be attracted to its colorful leaves, and can result in vomiting, rash, and diarrhea.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Garden Croton

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
All year around
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Orange
Flower Size
Flower Size
5 to 15 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 to 3 m

Name story

Garden croton
Codiaeum variegatum, also known as Croton variegatum, is as toxic as most Euphorbiaceae plants. It contains an oil that can cause severe diarrhea, like croton. It is often planted in gardens, so it’s also called the garden croton.

Usages

Garden Use
Garden croton is an evergreen woody shrub commonly found in tropical gardens. It is prized for its colorful foliage and interesting leaf formations. Its large leaves and shape make it suitable for landscape hedges and borders. Garden croton is appropriate for tropical-style ornamental gardens. Suggested companion plants include Coleus or Lantana to make color contrasts.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of garden croton losing their rich colors and turning green?

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The bright, rich color of the leaves of garden croton is largely dependent on adequate sunlight. When sunlight is insufficient, the leaves gradually turn green and lose their color. Try to move them to a place with more sunlight, such as near a window; or place them outdoors for some time during warm weather. Their color often fades naturally in winter.
Likewise, parts of leaves may lose their color under excessive exposure to light, especially long-term exposure to direct sunlight. If so, move it to a cool place for a while, or place it slightly away from the window. Surrounding temperatures and nutritional conditions also affect the condition of the leaves.

Why is my garden croton growing skinny and tall?

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It may be due to a lack of sunlight, as different varieties prefer different intensities of sunlight. When purchasing the plant, you should be clear about its needs in terms of sunlight. In general, plants will grow denser gradually with increasing sunlight exposure. However, allow the plants some time to adapt to brighter sunlight to prevent leaf damage.

Why are the leaves of my garden croton falling off?

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There are many reasons for the leaves falling off, most commonly insufficient sunlight, dry air, and too much or too little water. As new plants adapt to their new environment, symptoms such as falling leaves may appear, so consider each of its needs. The keys to keeping garden croton healthy is sufficient sunlight exposure; a warm, stable, windless environment; and moist soil and air. Avoid moving the plant frequently and keep it away from heat sources and vents.

Why are the leaves of my garden croton turning yellow?

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Leaves often turn yellow due to poor drainage, or water accumulation. In this scenario, replace the current soil with loose, well-drained soil. Water quality may also cause the leaves to turn yellow. Calcareous water (high in calcium carbonate) increases the pH value of soil, affects the vitality of the plant, and causes the plant leaves to wither. It is highly recommended to use filtered rainwater or tap water that has sat for some time (allowing minerals to dissipate).

Why are the leaves turning brown on the edges or tips?

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Browning of the edge of a leaf may be due to low temperature. If the tip of the leaf turns brown and is accompanied by defoliation or brown leaf spots with wilting symptoms, it may be due to the dry air or soil and low humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to provide an environment with sufficient humidity and water moisture for the plant.
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