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About
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Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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More Info
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New Plant Care

How to Care for Field Bindweed

Field bindweed (*Convolvulus arvensis*) is a native Eurasian plant related to morning glory. It is considered an invasive species in non-native areas because it competes with other plants for sunlight and moisture. Field bindweed is very hard to eradicate because its taproots grow so deep, and its seeds can remain viable for decades.
symbolism

Symbolism

Humility, constancy
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Field bindweed play
Field bindweed
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Field bindweed
Field bindweed
Field bindweed
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Field bindweed?

Ideally, transplanting field bindweed best occurs between early spring to mid-summer (S1-S3) when root establishment is more successful. Location-wise, a well-drained site with full sun is optimal. Remember to water it moderately post-transplant to aid recovery.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Field Bindweed Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Water
Every week
Field bindweed is native to Europe, Asia, and North Africa and is commonly found in open fields and disturbed areas with well-drained soil. It is adaptable to a variety of climates, including both temperate and Mediterranean regions. This plant is accustomed to receiving moderate rainfall and generally prefers slightly moist soil. To mimic its native environment, it is important to provide regular watering, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist without waterlogging the plant.
Watering Techniques
Lighting
Full sun
Field bindweed thrives best in environments where it can soak up unhindered sunlight most of the day. However, this resilient plant does show adaptability towards habitats where sun's rays are partially available. Sunlight plays a crucial factor for its good health, stimulating vigorous growth. Light deprivation or overexposure might dampen growth and cause stress to the plant.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 41 ℃
Field bindweed hails from climates where temperatures typically range from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives in such conditions, favoring warmth. Adjusting its environment to mimic these temperatures if growing in cooler areas would yield best results.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
Ideally, transplanting field bindweed best occurs between early spring to mid-summer (S1-S3) when root establishment is more successful. Location-wise, a well-drained site with full sun is optimal. Remember to water it moderately post-transplant to aid recovery.
Transplant Techniques
Pollination
Normal
Field bindweed employs a fascinating entourage of buzzing bees as its chief pollinators, drawing them in with a captivating vibrancy of color and irresistible sugary nectar. Using an enchanting, intricate mechanism of positioning its anthers and stigma, cross-pollination is achieved with the help of its winged visitors. The ballet of pollination mainly unfolds during daylight hours when bees are most active.
Pollination Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Field bindweed is thought to have a neutral compatibility with Feng Shui principles. Some experts suggest placing it in north-facing areas. They believe its hardy nature and vigorous growth help promote a sense of stability and resilience, which aligns with Feng Shui's belief in embracing the calmness and deep wisdom of the North. As with all aspects of Feng Shui, individual interpretations may well vary.
Fengshui Details
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Field bindweed based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf miners
plant poor
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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Leaf deformity
plant poor
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
  • stunting
  • abnormal shapes
  • a bumpy texture
  • gaps between leaf sections
  • raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
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More About Field Bindweed

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 to 2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 200 cm

Name story

Field bindweed
This trumpet-shaped flower blossoms everywhere in the garden and has become one of the grass weeds that annoy gardeners. Although the flowers are similar to the morning glory, they are actually not related to each other. The plant continues to spread by winding its stems on other plants in a counterclockwise fashion. Also, it often appears in field areas. So it is called field bindweed.

Usages

Garden Use
Field bindweed is liked for its heart-shaped leaves and pretty flowers. It is a spreading plant that can be grown as ground cover or as a hedge plant. It can also be grown over trellises or to cover unsightly areas. It may also be grown as an indoor plant. However, care must be taken to not allow it to strangle other plants.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
more
2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
show more show-more
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
show more show-more
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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main-image
Field Bindweed
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
label
main-image
Field Bindweed
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Pests & Diseases
More Info
New Plant Care
Field bindweed play
Field bindweed
video play
Field bindweed
Field bindweed
Field bindweed

How to Care for Field Bindweed

Field bindweed (*Convolvulus arvensis*) is a native Eurasian plant related to morning glory. It is considered an invasive species in non-native areas because it competes with other plants for sunlight and moisture. Field bindweed is very hard to eradicate because its taproots grow so deep, and its seeds can remain viable for decades.
symbolism

Symbolism

Humility, constancy
Water
Every week
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Field bindweed?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Ideally, transplanting field bindweed best occurs between early spring to mid-summer (S1-S3) when root establishment is more successful. Location-wise, a well-drained site with full sun is optimal. Remember to water it moderately post-transplant to aid recovery.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Field bindweed based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Leaf miners
Leaf miners Leaf miners Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Learn More About the Leaf miners more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering more
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformity Leaf deformity Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Learn More About the Leaf deformity more
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf miners
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Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
  1. Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
  2. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
  1. Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
  1. Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
  2. Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
  3. Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
  4. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Leaf deformity
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
  • stunting
  • abnormal shapes
  • a bumpy texture
  • gaps between leaf sections
  • raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
  1. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
  2. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
  3. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
  4. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
  5. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
  6. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
  2. Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
  3. Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
  4. Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
  5. Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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More About Field Bindweed

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 to 2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 200 cm

Name story

Field bindweed
This trumpet-shaped flower blossoms everywhere in the garden and has become one of the grass weeds that annoy gardeners. Although the flowers are similar to the morning glory, they are actually not related to each other. The plant continues to spread by winding its stems on other plants in a counterclockwise fashion. Also, it often appears in field areas. So it is called field bindweed.

Usages

Garden Use
Field bindweed is liked for its heart-shaped leaves and pretty flowers. It is a spreading plant that can be grown as ground cover or as a hedge plant. It can also be grown over trellises or to cover unsightly areas. It may also be grown as an indoor plant. However, care must be taken to not allow it to strangle other plants.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
check
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
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2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Water
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Field Bindweed Watering Instructions
Field bindweed is native to Europe, Asia, and North Africa and is commonly found in open fields and disturbed areas with well-drained soil. It is adaptable to a variety of climates, including both temperate and Mediterranean regions. This plant is accustomed to receiving moderate rainfall and generally prefers slightly moist soil. To mimic its native environment, it is important to provide regular watering, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist without waterlogging the plant.
When Should I Water My Field Bindweed?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the field bindweed. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant flower production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Moisture: Soil around the plant base is dry to the touch
One clear sign of when field bindweed needs water is the dryness of the soil. This can be checked by touching the soil around the plant base. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry to the touch, this means the plant most likely requires watering.
Leaf Condition: Wilted or lackluster appearance
The condition of the leaves of field bindweed can also be a reliable indicator for watering necessities. If the leaves appear wilted, lackluster, or begin to lose their vibrant color tending to fade or yellow, these are indicative of the plant being under-watered.
Pre-Flowering Stage: Bud drop or insufficient flowering
Field bindweed particularly requires watering during its pre-flowering or bud formation stage. A lack of water during this critical period may result in bud drop, preventing the plant from flowering fully.
Temperature and Sunlight Exposure: Warm temperatures and high sunlight exposure
Field bindweed has a high water requirement during warm temperatures and high sunlight exposure periods. Therefore, one must ensure to observe proper watering if these conditions are persistent.
Early Watering Risks
Watering field bindweed too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering field bindweed too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the field bindweed. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and flowering but also prolongs its lifespan and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Field Bindweed?
Watering Requirements
Field bindweed, also known as Field bindweed, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
One effective technique for watering field bindweed is bottom-watering. This involves placing the plant container in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. It ensures that the roots receive adequate moisture while minimizing the risk of over-saturating the surface.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is best to choose one with a narrow spout. This allows for targeted watering at the base of the plant, avoiding excessive wetting of the foliage. It helps prevent fungal diseases and encourages efficient hydration at the root level.
How Much Water Does Field Bindweed Really Need?
Natural Habitat Watering Conditions
Field bindweed's natural habitat involves moderately moist soil. They are commonly found in fields, roadsides, and other open, undisturbed areas where the soil retains a decent amount of moisture but drains well.
Optimal Watering Volume
The amount of water field bindweed requires is directly proportional to its pot size and plant size. A rule of thumb for watering field bindweed is to water thoroughly until the water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This amount ensures that the water reaches the root depth, stimulating the growth of a healthy root system.
Under/Over-Watering Signs
Signs of under-watering field bindweed may include drooping or wilting, yellow or brown leaves, and slow growth. If over-watered, field bindweed may display signs such as root rot, an unusually fast-growing but frail plant, and yellow leaves. It's important to keep an eye on these key indicators to ensure field bindweed's health.
Watering Implications
Too much water can lead to root rot, a diseased state that quickly kill field bindweed by damaging its roots which leads to the plant not being able to take in water and nutrients necessary for growth. On the other extreme, too little water can cause the plant to wilt and its growth to stagnate, eventually leading to its death.
Specific Care Tips
Ensuring the pot has well-draining soil is crucial for field bindweed's health. While it is okay for the top surface of the soil to dry out between watering, the deeper soil should stay moist without being waterlogged. Probing the soil with your finger can help assess whether the soil is moist enough at the root level without overwatering. Field bindweed's roots can reach to a depth of 20-30 feet, making it important to provide ample depth for proper root growth for potted plants.
How Often Should I Water Field Bindweed?
Every week
Watering Frequency
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Field Bindweed?
Water type preferences
Field bindweed thrives best with rainwater or distilled water. Tap water can also be used but should be dechlorinated and de-fluoridated in order to protect plant's health.
Chlorine Sensitivity
Field bindweed is moderately sensitive to chlorine. It is recommended to use tap water that has been left to sit out for 24-48 hours to allow chlorine to evaporate before watering the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Field bindweed, like many other plants, can be sensitive to high levels of fluoride found in some tap water. Using de-fluoridated water or collected rainwater can help avoid potential fluoride damage, such as leaf tip burn.
Sensitivity to Water Minerals
Field bindweed does not have any specific sensitivities to typical minerals found in water, but a build-up of excess minerals can cause damage over time. Distilled water or rainwater, free from such minerals, can help prevent this.
Water Treatment Benefits
Water treatments can be beneficial for field bindweed. Letting the tap water sit out for a few days can help to evaporate substances such as chlorine and fluoride, making it safer for the plant. Boiling water can also precipitate out hard minerals, making it softer and more plant-friendly.
Water Temperature Preferences
Field bindweed prefers water at room temperature. Cold water can shock the plant's roots while hot water can harm them.
General Watering Conditions
Field bindweed is a hardy plant and can tolerate a range of watering conditions. However, it prefers consistently moist soil during the growing season, but the soil should be allowed to dry out between watering in winter to prevent root rot.
How Do Field Bindweed's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water field bindweed in Spring?
As spring is the onset of field bindweed's growth phase, watering should be balanced, avoiding waterlogging but keeping the soil moderately moist. As soil dries quickly during this season, ensure to water regularly without causing water stress to the plants. Following this watering approach encourages the healthy growth of field bindweed.
How to Water field bindweed in Summer?
Due to increased sunlight and field bindweed's active growth phase, ensure the soil remains consistently moist. However, be cautious not to overwater as field bindweed is adapted to a harsh summer environment and excess water could potentially lead to plant diseases or root rot. Deep watering methods may be beneficial during this season to reach field bindweed's extensive root system and provide sufficient hydration.
How to Water field bindweed in Autumn?
Field bindweed begins to prepare for its dormancy phase in autumn, so watering should be gradually reduced. Adjust the watering schedule considering the reduced evaporation rates during this cool season. Ensuring less but consistent moisture content in the soil helps field bindweed to maintain healthy root system while preventing water-associated diseases.
How to Water field bindweed in Winter?
Field bindweed enters its dormancy phase during winter, so watering should be minimal. As the plant's metabolic activities are significantly reduced, its water requirements also diminish. It is crucial to avoid soil waterlogging during this season as cold and wet conditions can cause root rot in field bindweed.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Field Bindweed Watering Routine?
Watering Tools:
Using a watering can with a narrow spout or a hose attachment with a misting nozzle can help deliver water directly to the base of the plant without splashing the leaves. This reduces the risk of fungal diseases and promotes efficient absorption.
Watering in the Morning:
Water field bindweed in the early morning, ideally between 6 am and 10 am. This allows the plant to uptake water before the peak heat of the day, reducing moisture loss through evaporation. Avoid watering in the evening as wet foliage overnight can increase susceptibility to diseases.
Moisture Meter:
Using a moisture meter can help assess field bindweed's deeper soil moisture needs and prevent over or under-watering. This plant prefers its soil to be mostly dry before the next watering, and a meter can effectively measure this.
Avoid Over-Watering:
Field bindweed is highly drought-tolerant and can actually thrive with minimal water. Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to root rot and weaken the plant. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between waterings.
Monitor Soil Moisture:
Rather than relying solely on surface appearance, occasionally check the moisture level deeper down in the soil. Insert your finger or a soil probe a few inches into the ground near the plant's root zone to gauge moisture levels. This will help determine when to water.
Signs of Thirst:
If field bindweed starts showing signs of wilting or the leaves appear limp, it may be an indication that the plant needs watering. However, don't rush to water immediately; double-check the soil moisture and ensure it genuinely requires watering.
Adjusting for Heatwaves:
During a heatwave, field bindweed may require more frequent watering since the excessive heat can evaporate moisture from the soil faster. Increase the frequency of watering but ensure the soil still largely dries out between each watering session.
Managing Extended Rain:
If field bindweed receives sustained rainfall, decrease the frequency of watering to prevent waterlogged soil. Field bindweed is adapted to survive in drier conditions and can be negatively affected by excessively wet soil.
Watering Stressed Plants:
When field bindweed is facing stress due to factors like transplanting or pest infestation, provide adequate hydration. Stressed plants can be more susceptible to damage, so ensuring they receive enough water helps support their recovery.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Field Bindweed?
Overview of Hydroponics
Field bindweed is a plant that can be successfully grown using hydroponics, which is a method of growing plants without soil. Hydroponics involves providing the plant's roots with a nutrient-rich water solution instead of soil.
Best Suited Hydroponic System
A nutrient film technique (NFT) system is well-suited for growing field bindweed hydroponically. NFT systems allow a thin film of nutrient-rich water to constantly flow over the roots, providing the plant with oxygen and nutrients while maintaining a suitable moisture level.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
For field bindweed, a balanced nutrient solution with a pH level of 6.0-6.5 is ideal. The nutrient solution should contain macronutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as micronutrients like iron, manganese, and zinc. It is recommended to change the nutrient solution every 1-2 weeks to prevent nutrient imbalances.
Challenges & Common Issues
When growing field bindweed hydroponically, root rot can be a common issue. Ensure proper oxygenation of the roots by using an air stone or air pump in the nutrient solution. Nutrient imbalances can also occur, so regularly monitor the pH and nutrient levels to avoid deficiencies or toxicities. Additionally, field bindweed requires sufficient light to thrive, so ensuring an appropriate light intensity and duration is crucial.
Monitoring Plant Health
Monitor field bindweed closely for any signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth. Adjust nutrient concentrations or pH levels if necessary. Compared to soil-grown plants, field bindweed may show symptoms of nutrient deficiencies or imbalances more quickly in a hydroponic setup.
Adjusting the Hydroponic Environment
During the vegetative growth stage, field bindweed benefits from a longer light period of around 16-18 hours per day. In the flowering stage, reduce the light period to 12 hours per day to promote flower development. Adjust the nutrient solution strength according to the plant's growth stage, gradually increasing it during the vegetative stage and reducing it during the flowering stage.
Nutrient Solution
Field bindweed prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 6.0-6.5 for optimal growth.
Hydroponic System
The nutrient film technique (NFT) system is best suited for growing field bindweed hydroponically.
Frequency of Nutrient Change
Change the nutrient solution every 1-2 weeks to prevent nutrient imbalances.
Common Issues
Root rot, nutrient imbalances, and light requirements are common challenges when growing field bindweed hydroponically.
Monitoring Health
Monitor field bindweed for signs of stress like wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth.
Adjusting Environment
Adjust the light period and nutrient strength according to field bindweed's growth stage.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Field bindweed is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Field bindweed is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Field Bindweed
Why are the leaves of my field bindweed turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves in field bindweed often indicate overwatering. This plant is a hardy perennial that prefers dry conditions. To fix this issue, reduce the frequency of your watering and ensure your plant has well-drained soil to prevent waterlogging. Monitor its condition, and adjust your watering as necessary.
My field bindweed's leaves are wilting despite regular watering. What could be the problem?
Even though field bindweed is a drought-tolerant plant, it still needs some water. Wilting could be a sign of underwatering, especially in hot and dry conditions. Glance at the soil before watering; if it's dry and cracked, your plant may need more frequent watering. Remember, though, that field bindweed does not require much water, so overcompensating could result in overwatering.
Why does my field bindweed have brown, crunchy edges despite adequate watering?
Crisp brown edges can signal several issues. In relation to watering, it could be a sign that the field bindweed is receiving too much water. Overwatered plants may show these symptoms due to a lack of oxygen reaching the roots. On the other hand, it can also be a sign of extreme dryness. To address this, check the soil's moisture levels before watering and aim for a balance, taking care not to overwater or underwater.
The growth of my field bindweed seems stunted. Could improper watering be the cause?
Yes, watering issues can result in stunted growth. Both overwatering and underwatering can lead to poor root development, slowing field bindweed's growth. The plant needs a careful balance, enough water to facilitate growth, but not so much that it drowns the roots. Adjust your watering schedule as necessary and use well-draining soil to maintain optimal moisture levels.
I've noticed root rot in my field bindweed. Is overwatering to blame?
Root rot typically occurs when a plant's roots have been sitting in water for too long, which is often a consequence of overwatering. To resolve this problem, you could try repotting your field bindweed in fresh, well-draining soil. Moving forward, ensure to check the soil's moisture level before each watering to avoid waterlogging.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Field bindweed thrives best in environments where it can soak up unhindered sunlight most of the day. However, this resilient plant does show adaptability towards habitats where sun's rays are partially available. Sunlight plays a crucial factor for its good health, stimulating vigorous growth. Light deprivation or overexposure might dampen growth and cause stress to the plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Field bindweed thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your field bindweed may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Field bindweed enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Field bindweed thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Field bindweed hails from climates where temperatures typically range from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). It thrives in such conditions, favoring warmth. Adjusting its environment to mimic these temperatures if growing in cooler areas would yield best results.
Regional wintering strategies
Field bindweed has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Field bindweed is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Field bindweed should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Field Bindweed?
Ideally, transplanting field bindweed best occurs between early spring to mid-summer (S1-S3) when root establishment is more successful. Location-wise, a well-drained site with full sun is optimal. Remember to water it moderately post-transplant to aid recovery.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Field Bindweed?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Field Bindweed?
The prime time for transplanting field bindweed falls in the Spring-Summer spectrum (S1-S3). This period encourages vigorous growth due to favourable climatic conditions, promising an invigorating start. Reworking roots at this time maximises plant productivity and minimises impacts of transplantation shock. Adopting this schedule is a surefire strategy toward a thriving field bindweed garden!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Field Bindweed Plants?
When transplanting your field bindweed, aim for a spacing of about 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 meters) apart. This will give your plants adequate room to spread and thrive. Think of it as giving each plant its own personal bubble!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Field Bindweed Transplanting?
For your field bindweed, a well-drained loamy or sandy soil is the best. Also, enrich the soil with a good amount of organic compost or a base fertilizer before planting. This will provide essential nutrients and promote vigorous growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Field Bindweed?
Your field bindweed loves the sun! So, choose a location that gets full sunlight for most of the day. Remember, adequate sunlight is essential for your plant's growth and flowering. Happy gardening!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Field Bindweed?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and field bindweed plant removing and transplanting process.
Spade or Shovel
Vital to dig up the plant from its original location without damaging the root ball.
Gardening Trowel
Essential for filling and adjusting soil around your field bindweed when transplanting.
Watering Can
For watering the plant pre and post-transplant, which is important for the plant's survival.
Wheelbarrow
Handy for transporting larger plants or considerable soil volumes from one location to another.
Garden Fork
Useful for lightly loosening the soil at the new planting site.
Mulch
Used post-transplant to help retain soil moisture and regulate soil temperature.
How Do You Remove Field Bindweed from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the field bindweed plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location, avoiding any damage to the root system.
From Pot: Water the field bindweed plant in its pot and leave for a few minutes to allow water absorption. Loosely hold the stem and turn the pot sideways, then gently pull to free the plant and root ball. Keep the root ball as intact as possible.
From Seedling Tray: Gently remove the field bindweed seedling using a spoon or small trowel. Hold the plant by its leaves rather than its stem to avoid injury. Try to keep as much original soil on the roots as possible for minimal disturbance.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Field Bindweed
Step1 Digging
Dig a hole at chosen location, ideally twice as wide and almost as deep as the root ball.
Step2 Placement
Place the field bindweed plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding ground.
Step3 Soil Adjustment
Backfill the hole with the soil, firming gently around the base of the plant. Avoid packing the soil too tightly; the roots need oxygen too.
Step4 Watering
Water the plant immediately after transplanting, ensuring to dampen the soil but without waterlogging. This will settle the soil around roots and help the plant recover from the stress of transplanting.
How Do You Care For Field Bindweed After Transplanting?
Watering
Ensure the field bindweed is watered regularly and adequately, depending on its water requirements. Regular watering aids in the establishment of root system.
Weeding
Maintain the area around your field bindweed by removing weeds that may compete with it for nutrients and water.
Regular check-up
Examine your field bindweed regularly for signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. If you spot these, it might require more water, less sunlight or even a new location.
Coverage
Use mulch around the base of your field bindweed to maintain soil moisture and regulate the temperature. Replace the mulch as necessary but take care not to let it touch the stem of the plant to avoid rot.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Field Bindweed Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant field bindweed?
The ideal time to transplant field bindweed is between early spring to early summer (S1-S3). These seasons maintain a balance, provides adequate rainfall and sunlight, contributing to successful growth.
How much space should be between each field bindweed plant during transplanting?
You should maintain a distance of 2-3 feet (60-90cm) between each field bindweedplant. This gives the plant ample space to grow and spread without competing for resources.
Why is my transplanted field bindweed wilting?
Field bindweed wilts due to transplant shock or inadequate watering. Ensure to water the plant sufficiently and maintain a conducive environment post-transplant for recovery.
My field bindweed is not growing after transplanting. What might be the reason?
It could be due to transplant shock, insufficient sunlight, or poor soil nutrients. Give the plant time to adjust and make sure it's getting enough light and the soil is well-fertilized.
Should I prune field bindweed before transplanting?
Yes, trimming field bindweed before transplanting aids in reducing stress and also promotes bushier and healthier growth post-transplant.
How often should I water field bindweed post-transplant?
Immediately after transplanting, water field bindweed thoroughly. Sustain this for the first few weeks. Later, the frequency can be reduced depending on the climate and soil moisture.
Can I transplant field bindweed in late summer or fall?
Transplantation in late summer or fall is not preferred for field bindweed as it might not adjust to the colder temperatures in time. Early spring to early summer is most ideal.
What type of soil is best for field bindweed transplanting?
Field bindweed prefers well-drained, fertile soil with a pH range between 6.0 to 8.0. If your soil is not ideal, add compost or organic matter to improve its quality.
How deep should the hole be for transplanting field bindweed?
Dig a hole that is twice as wide and the same depth as the plant's root ball. This gives the roots plenty of room to spread and establish.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted field bindweed turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Check if the soil drains properly and adjust watering accordingly. Also, ensure the field bindweed is getting enough sunlight, as shade can also cause yellowing.
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