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How to Care for Bear's Paw

Bear's paw is a succulent evergreen shrub endemic to South Africa with thick, fuzzy leaves with noticeable "teeth" at their tips. During the spring, it blooms with huge orange bell-shaped flowers. The leaf of this plant turns a deep red when disturbed or agitated externally. Bear's paw is toxic to animals, pets, and people.
symbolism

Symbolism

Towery, soft, messy
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Bear's paw?

Bear's paw doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Bear's paw?
The proper way to water Bear's paw requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Bear's paw will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Bear's paw too much or too little?
An overwatered Bear's paw is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Bear's paw to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Bear's paw shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Bear's paw in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Bear's paw?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Bear's paw are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Bear's paw to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Bear's paw need?
Overall, Bear's paw does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Bear's paw enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Bear's paw, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Bear's paw through the seasons?
As mentioned, Bear's paw needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Bear's paws begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Bear's paw at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Bear's paw will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Bear's paw prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Bear's paw may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Bear's paws can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Bear's paw may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Bear's paw indoors and outdoors?
Growing Bear's paws outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Bear's paw will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Bear's paws at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Bear's paw?

Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too much nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Bear's paw adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Bear's paw does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Bear's paw adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Bear's paw only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Bear's paw in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Bear's paw. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Bear's paw, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Bear's paw is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Bear's paw can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Bear's paw has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Bear's paw?
Fertilizing Bear's paw adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Bear's paw?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Bear's paw only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Bear's paw in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Bear's paw?
Like most plants, Bear's paw has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Bear's paw need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Bear's paw. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Bear's paw?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Bear's paw, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
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What happens if I fertilize my Bear's paw too much?
Over-fertilizing Bear's paw is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Bear's paw can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Bear's paw?

Generally speaking, bear's paw needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Bear's paw need to grow?
Bear's paw should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Bear's paw will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Bear's paw need?
Bear's paw needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Bear's paw from sun exposure?
Bear's paw usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Bear's paw is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Bear's paw will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Bear's paw doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Bear's paw will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Bear's paw may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Bear's paw gets too much sunlight?
Bear's paw may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Bear's paw can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
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Does Bear's paw need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Bear's paw will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Bear's paw?
It is best to water Bear's paw in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Bear's paw grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Bear's paw is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Bear's paw?

In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. This depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Bear's paw?

The suitable growth temperature of bear's paw is above 15 ℃, and it can grow normally in spring, summer and autumn. It can tolerate high temperature, but it will enter the dormancy period when the temperature is higher than 33 ℃ (Sedum lineare is a special species that still grows well under high temperature in summer.). When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move bear's paw indoor to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death.
If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant. When it enters its dormancy, it needs less watering; during its growing season, a small amount of water is needed.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Bear's paw?
To create the best possible environment for Bear's paw, you’ll want to grow your Bear's paw in temperatures between 60-75℉ (15-25℃). They can tolerate marginally higher and lower temperatures, but this range will help facilitate optimal growth.
Bear's paw that experience temperatures below 40℉(10℃) or above 95℉(35℃) will go into a state of dormancy, halting their growth. Staying above 95℉ (35℃) for anything other than a short period can damage these plants; enough time in high temperatures may kill them entirely.
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Does Bear's paw require different temperatures for different growing phases?
Bear's paw do require different temperatures to enter their different phases of life, primarily the dormant phase they reach during summer and their growing phase during the winter. Bear's paw need cooler temperatures to actively grow, but not too cold; anything below 40℉(10℃) will push them into a state of dormancy regardless of season.
High temperatures can also induce a dormant state, restricting growth and reducing the plant's watering needs. Too much watering during dormancy can drown the plant and cause root rot, so make sure to only water the soil when it feels dry.
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Three tips for keeping Bear's paw temperature under control
Tip #1: Don’t Over-Water When Temperatures Are High
It may seem counterintuitive, but Bear's paw actually need less water during summer. To see if your plants have enough moisture, check the soil by putting your pointer finger two inches (5 cm) below the surface and feeling to see if it's dry. If it's already wet and you continue to water it, you can cause the roots of your plant to rot.
Tip #2: Don’t Panic If Temperatures Occasionally Get Too High or Low
While you’ll want to keep your Bear's paw in the optimal temperature range as much as possible, they won’t die instantly if temperatures drop or rise. Bear's paw have even been known to survive at temperatures below 0 ℃ for small amounts of time. Temperature fluctuations will usually cause your plants to enter a state of dormancy, going into survival mode and utilizing less water. You’ll want to return them to the correct range as soon as possible, but don’t think all is lost if the temperature suddenly shifts.
Tip #3: Avoid Placing Your Bear's paw in Extreme Heat
When exposed to very high temperatures for extended periods of time, Bear's paw will begin to change and experience damage. The changes may seem aesthetically pleasing at first, with the leaves changing into muted shades of red, yellow, and orange. But eventually they will begin to wither as the plant succumbs to sun damage, eventually stopping it's growth entirely and causing your Bear's paw to die.
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Does Bear's paw need different temperatures for different seasons?
Bear's paw actively grow in winter, though their flowers won’t appear until the warmer temperatures of spring. If you are planting these succulents indoors, the seasons won’t affect their temperature requirements very much. The focus will be more on the ability for the plants to get the right amount of sunlight.
Winters can make it more difficult for Bear's paw to get the right amount of light, while summers can provide an overabundance. Too much sunlight can damage the leaves and stems of the plant, slowing their growth or halting it entirely. Keep your Bear's paw in an area with bright but indirect light to see the best results.
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What is the best way to keep my Bear's paw at the optimal temperature?
If you are growing your Bear's paw indoors, you’ll want them kept in an area of your home with a climate control system. This system can be an A/C unit if you live in a warmer region or a heater if you live in a colder region, though the air from either should not come directly in contact with the plants. Try to have as much natural air as possible without drastically shifting the surrounding temperature. You’ll also want to be mindful of the sunlight they experience, keeping them in rooms with ample, but indirect, window lighting.
If your Bear's paw is outside, you’ll want to control the temperature by positioning it for optimum sunlight. This means avoiding the direct sunlight and heat of midday; Bear's paw is full sun or partial shade plants, dappled sunlight filtered through a tree, plant, or fabric structure is the best. An overabundance of sunlight can also expose them to high temperatures, putting them at risk of dormancy and damage.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Bear's paw?

Soil is very important for the growth of bear's paw, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss : perlite : volcanic rock : vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Bear's paw?

There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.

Propagation

Bear's paw is a lovely plant. If you want to get more of this plant, you can propagate it as follows. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Bear's paw. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before the propagation.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Bear's paw dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Bear's paw. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Bear's paw to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Bear's paw. After this period, Bear's paw can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Bear's paw?

When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Bear's paw?

The perfect time to transplant bear's paw is from early summer to mid-fall, offering optimal growth conditions. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil, and ensure the plant isn't over-watered. With these considerations, transplanting bear's paw will be a delightful experience for both the plant and the gardener!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
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How to Repot Bear's paw?

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Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
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More Info on Bear's Paw Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Bear's paw fares well under extensive sunlight exposure, simulating its native habitat where daylight is plentiful. It can adapt to moderate light from shedding more intense rays, although the plant's health may be somewhat affected. Too much or too little light can hinder its growth or cause sunburn.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Bear's paw is native to regions with warm temperature ranging from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100 ℉). It prefers warm temperatures and thrives best in sunny, dry climates. During winter, it's best to provide the plant with a slight decrease in temperature, possibly around 18℃ (64℉) to encourage dormancy.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-8 inches
The perfect time to transplant bear's paw is from early summer to mid-fall, offering optimal growth conditions. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil, and ensure the plant isn't over-watered. With these considerations, transplanting bear's paw will be a delightful experience for both the plant and the gardener!
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
0 - 43 ℃
Bear's paw hails from arid South Africa, naturally equipped to withstand a dry winter rather than freezing cold. Dormant in winter, bear's paw adapts by storing moisture in thick, succulent leaves. To maintain bear's paw in colder climates, shield it from freezing temperatures and limit watering, emulating its native winter environment. Ensure good lighting, minimal moisture, and a frost-free space for a thriving bear's paw this winter!
Winter Techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The bear's paw exhibits a harmonious accord with the earth element of the Northeast direction, due to its succulent nature and sturdy leaves, symbolizing grounding and permanence. This Feng Shui compatibility might enhance stability and wisdom in a room. As with any Feng Shui advice, individual results may vary.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation:
  1. use loose soil;
  2. use a ceramic pot with good air permeability;
  3. keep the potted plants in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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4
The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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2
Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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3
Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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4
Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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4
These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Bear's paw based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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More About Bear's Paw

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
30 to 46 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Yellow
Green
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
Flower Size
1.4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
11 cm

Name story

Bear's paw
Cotyledon tomentosa, native to Africa, produces large chunky ovate fuzzy green leaves with prominent "teeth" at the tips that give the impression of the bear's paws. Hence, the resemblance inspires the name, the bear's paw.

Usages

Garden Use
Bear's paw is a unique-looking species of succulent chosen by many gardeners in Mediterranean and desert climates for its glossy, paw-shaped leaves and small but pretty flowers. It is usually planted in low borders, succulent gardens, or rock gardens.
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
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Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for succulent plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Succulent
check-health

Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Grows compactly with a full shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Leaves
Check the overlapping shaded areas. Even leaf colour, absence of yellowing, brown spots, wilting, or ruffling. No white mouldy spots from mealy bugs in leaf axils or stem.
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Stems
The stem is full and firm to the touch, with no browning or soft rot.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Stems
trouble-image
The stem is brown and soft: clear out the rotten roots by repotting the plant, place it in a spot with good sunlight. Water every 1-2 weeks with a fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown or yellow spots: place in well-ventilated area, avoid watering leaves, use fungicide spray if severe.
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more 3 Wilted, wrinkled leaves: check if due to overwatering or lack of water, cut off water and re-water after 1 month if due to rot.
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more 4 Leaves falling off easily: due to lack of light or rot, clean up rot, repot in sunny location.
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more 5 Mouldy white spots (mealy bugs): manually remove bugs, treat with soapy water, use chemical insecticides if needed.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should be dry, with no foul odors.
check
Light Check
Adequate sunlight is essential.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Succulent & cactus soil
Soil smells musty or foul: If the soil particles are not large, it is necessary to replace them with more breathable granular soil. After cleaning out the rotted roots and repotting, water once every 1-2 weeks and reduce the amount of water each time.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: it may become sick and eventually die. Move the plant to a location with direct light.
Transplant recovery: Succulents can handle full light, except during summer when temperatures are higher than 86℉ (30℃) . Acclimate for 2 weeks and then expose to full light.
check
Ideal Temperature
10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Move indoor in winter if temperature dips below 40℉ (5℃).
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
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2
Adapting Your New Succulent
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
New succulents can be repotted immediately, except during dormancy. Replace soil if it's not loose and airy. No watering needed after repotting. Summer heat is dormancy time for Sedum, Phyllanthaceae, Tuberous. Winter temperatures are dormancy time for Cactaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Lauraceae.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Remove dead/yellow leaves. Keep dead leaves wrapping plant intact. Cut off long, crooked, fallen, or leaning branches. Prune dried roots and tiny fibrous roots if bare-rooted. Pruning roots doesn't harm succulents.
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Step 3
condition-image
Watering
No water needed during the first week after repotting or arrival. Then water once a week or according to the plant's habits, usually at intervals of no less than once a week.
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main-image
Bear's Paw
label-image
Repotting
Repot new succulents except in dormancy. Use loose soil. No watering after repotting.
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Pruning
Remove dead leaves, cut bad branches. Prune dried roots if bare-rooted.
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Watering
No water first week after repotting. Then, water weekly or per plant habits.
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Sunlight
Full light for succulents except >86℉ (30℃) summer. Acclimate 2 weeks, then full light.
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Soil
If soil has a musty smell, replace it with a more permeable soil, repot and reduce watering frequency.
label
main-image
Bear's Paw
label-image
Repotting
Repot new succulents except in dormancy. Use loose soil. No watering after repotting.
label-image
Pruning
Remove dead leaves, cut bad branches. Prune dried roots if bare-rooted.
label-image
Watering
No water first week after repotting. Then, water weekly or per plant habits.
label-image
Sunlight
Full light for succulents except >86℉ (30℃) summer. Acclimate 2 weeks, then full light.
label-image
Soil
If soil has a musty smell, replace it with a more permeable soil, repot and reduce watering frequency.
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Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw
Bear's paw

How to Care for Bear's Paw

Bear's paw is a succulent evergreen shrub endemic to South Africa with thick, fuzzy leaves with noticeable "teeth" at their tips. During the spring, it blooms with huge orange bell-shaped flowers. The leaf of this plant turns a deep red when disturbed or agitated externally. Bear's paw is toxic to animals, pets, and people.
symbolism

Symbolism

Towery, soft, messy
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Bear's paw?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Bear's paw doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Bear's paw?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too much nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Bear's paw adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Bear's paw does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Bear's paw adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Bear's paw only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Bear's paw in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Bear's paw. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Bear's paw, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Bear's paw is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Bear's paw can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Bear's paw has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Bear's paw?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Generally speaking, bear's paw needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Bear's paw?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. This depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Bear's paw?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The suitable growth temperature of bear's paw is above 15 ℃, and it can grow normally in spring, summer and autumn. It can tolerate high temperature, but it will enter the dormancy period when the temperature is higher than 33 ℃ (Sedum lineare is a special species that still grows well under high temperature in summer.). When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move bear's paw indoor to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death.
If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant. When it enters its dormancy, it needs less watering; during its growing season, a small amount of water is needed.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Bear's paw?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Soil is very important for the growth of bear's paw, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss : perlite : volcanic rock : vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Bear's paw?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.
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Propagation

Bear's paw is a lovely plant. If you want to get more of this plant, you can propagate it as follows. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Bear's paw. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before the propagation.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Bear's paw dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Bear's paw. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Bear's paw to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Bear's paw. After this period, Bear's paw can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Bear's paw?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Bear's paw?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The perfect time to transplant bear's paw is from early summer to mid-fall, offering optimal growth conditions. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil, and ensure the plant isn't over-watered. With these considerations, transplanting bear's paw will be a delightful experience for both the plant and the gardener!
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Bear's paw?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Flower Pots
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation:
  1. use loose soil;
  2. use a ceramic pot with good air permeability;
  3. keep the potted plants in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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3
Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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1
You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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2
Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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4
Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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1
Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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2
Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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3
You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Bear's paw based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Black spot
Black spot Black spot Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Black spot
plant poor
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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More About Bear's Paw

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
30 to 46 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Yellow
Green
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
Flower Size
1.4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
11 cm

Name story

Bear's paw
Cotyledon tomentosa, native to Africa, produces large chunky ovate fuzzy green leaves with prominent "teeth" at the tips that give the impression of the bear's paws. Hence, the resemblance inspires the name, the bear's paw.

Usages

Garden Use
Bear's paw is a unique-looking species of succulent chosen by many gardeners in Mediterranean and desert climates for its glossy, paw-shaped leaves and small but pretty flowers. It is usually planted in low borders, succulent gardens, or rock gardens.
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for succulent plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Succulent
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Grows compactly with a full shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Leaves
Check the overlapping shaded areas. Even leaf colour, absence of yellowing, brown spots, wilting, or ruffling. No white mouldy spots from mealy bugs in leaf axils or stem.
part
Stems
The stem is full and firm to the touch, with no browning or soft rot.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves
more
Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
The stem is brown and soft: clear out the rotten roots by repotting the plant, place it in a spot with good sunlight. Water every 1-2 weeks with a fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown or yellow spots: place in well-ventilated area, avoid watering leaves, use fungicide spray if severe.
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more 3 Wilted, wrinkled leaves: check if due to overwatering or lack of water, cut off water and re-water after 1 month if due to rot.
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more 4 Leaves falling off easily: due to lack of light or rot, clean up rot, repot in sunny location.
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more 5 Mouldy white spots (mealy bugs): manually remove bugs, treat with soapy water, use chemical insecticides if needed.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should be dry, with no foul odors.
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Light Check
Adequate sunlight is essential.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Suitable Light
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
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Succulent & cactus soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: If the soil particles are not large, it is necessary to replace them with more breathable granular soil. After cleaning out the rotted roots and repotting, water once every 1-2 weeks and reduce the amount of water each time.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: it may become sick and eventually die. Move the plant to a location with direct light.
Transplant recovery: Succulents can handle full light, except during summer when temperatures are higher than 86℉ (30℃) . Acclimate for 2 weeks and then expose to full light.
check
10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Move indoor in winter if temperature dips below 40℉ (5℃).
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
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2
Adapting Your New Succulent
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
New succulents can be repotted immediately, except during dormancy. Replace soil if it's not loose and airy. No watering needed after repotting. Summer heat is dormancy time for Sedum, Phyllanthaceae, Tuberous. Winter temperatures are dormancy time for Cactaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Lauraceae.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove dead/yellow leaves. Keep dead leaves wrapping plant intact. Cut off long, crooked, fallen, or leaning branches. Prune dried roots and tiny fibrous roots if bare-rooted. Pruning roots doesn't harm succulents.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
No water needed during the first week after repotting or arrival. Then water once a week or according to the plant's habits, usually at intervals of no less than once a week.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Bear's paw fares well under extensive sunlight exposure, simulating its native habitat where daylight is plentiful. It can adapt to moderate light from shedding more intense rays, although the plant's health may be somewhat affected. Too much or too little light can hinder its growth or cause sunburn.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Bear's paw is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your bear's paw may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Bear's paw require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Bear's paw is native to regions with warm temperature ranging from 20 to 38 ℃ (68 to 100 ℉). It prefers warm temperatures and thrives best in sunny, dry climates. During winter, it's best to provide the plant with a slight decrease in temperature, possibly around 18℃ (64℉) to encourage dormancy.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Bear's paw, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Bear's paw is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Bear's paw should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Bear's Paw?
The perfect time to transplant bear's paw is from early summer to mid-fall, offering optimal growth conditions. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil, and ensure the plant isn't over-watered. With these considerations, transplanting bear's paw will be a delightful experience for both the plant and the gardener!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Bear's Paw?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Bear's Paw?
The most opportune period for transplanting bear's paw is from the commencement of summer into the heart of fall. This season offers the warmth and sunlight conducive to the growth of bear's paw. You'll observe bear's paw's thriving vibrancy as it feeds off the abundant solstice energy, making its transplanting worthwhile. This step-by-step pre-transplanting care will ensure a successful transplantation process you'll be proud of.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Bear's Paw Plants?
Giving bear's paw enough room to grow is important, so space them about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart when transplanting. This ensures that they have enough space to thrive and spread out happily!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Bear's Paw Transplanting?
For bear's paw, a well-draining soil mix is best, such as a blend of cactus or succulent potting mix with some extra perlite or sand. Also, adding a slow-release fertilizer into the soil will give your plants the nutrients they need for successful growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Bear's Paw?
Since bear's paw loves sunlight, choose a location that gets plenty of bright but indirect light. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade would be ideal to keep your plants happy without being overexposed.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Bear's Paw?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from harm while handling the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
Needed for digging holes and removing the plant from its original location.
Garden Trowel
Ideal for transferring the plant and its soil into the new location.
Watering Can
Used to water the plant before and after the transplant.
Pruning Shears
May be needed if the bear's paw plant has grown large and needs to be trimmed before transplanting.
How Do You Remove Bear's Paw from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering your bear's paw plant to dampen the soil around it. Once the soil is damp, carefully dig a trench around the plant using a shovel, ensuring the root ball remains undisturbed. Using the shovel, work your way under the root ball, and carefully elevate the plant from the ground.
From Pot: Again, water your plant before proceeding. Turn the pot side-ways and gently tap on its sides and bottom to loosen the soil and roots. Gradually pull out the plant, ensuring the root ball and surrounding soil remains as intact as possible.
From Seedling Tray: Water the bear's paw seedlings first to ease them out of their compact habitat. Gently loosen the surrounding soil and carefully lift out the seedlings using a spoon or similar tool, ensuring minimal damage to the delicate roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Bear's Paw
Preparation
Before starting, water your bear's paw plant to relieve its stress and make the transplant process easier. Also, water the new planting hole to prepare it for the new arrival.
Digging
Using a shovel or trowel, dig a hole in the ground. The hole should be twice the diameter of the plant's root ball and deep enough to accommodate it.
Placing
Place your plant into the hole carefully. The top part of the root ball should be level with the surrounding soil surface after the plant is inserted.
Backfilling
Slowly backfill the hole with the surrounding soil. Be careful not to bury the bear's paw's stem or leaves in the process.
Watering
After transplanting, give the bear's paw plant a good watering to settle the soil.
How Do You Care For Bear's Paw After Transplanting?
Immediate care
Water your bear's paw plant regularly until it's well-rooted and shows signs of new growth. The soil should be kept moist but not water-logged.
Pruning
Trim dead or damaged leaves to allow the plant to direct its energy toward healthy growth.
Monitoring
Watch out for any signs of stress, like leaf wilt or discoloration, and adjust your care routine accordingly. The bear's paw plant tends to droop when over or underwatered, so regulate the water supply as needed.
Protection
Make sure the plant is protected from extreme weather conditions, pests, and diseases during the early stages of its new life at the new location.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Bear's Paw Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant bear's paw?
The optimal period to relocate bear's paw is early summer through mid-autumn. This allows the plant ample time to recover before winter conditions.
What's the proper spacing for bear's paw when transplanting?
To ensure healthy growth, maintain a gap of 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) between each plant. This grants bear's paw enough space to spread out its leaves.
What should I do if the leaves of my transplanted bear's paw start turning yellow?
Yellow leaves might indicate overwatering. Correct this situation by checking the moisture level before watering and making sure your pot or garden has sufficient drainage.
How do I prepare the soil for transplanting bear's paw?
Use well-draining soil, enriched with organic compost. Make sure the PH level is neutral to slightly acidic range, ideally suited for bear's paw.
What if my recently transplanted bear's paw looks rather droopy?
Drooping could be due to transplant shock. Keep it in a shaded location, maintain moisture and gradually introduce sunlight. The plant should recover in a couple of weeks.
Why are the leaves of my bear's paw browning after transplanting?
If you notice browning leaves, your bear's paw might be receiving too much direct sunlight. Move the plant to a location with bright but indirect light.
How often should I water bear's paw after transplanting?
Generally, water bear's paw thoroughly, then let the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dry out before watering again. Overwatering can cause root rot, so be cautious.
Why isn't my transplanted bear's paw showing new growth?
Bear's paw might be in a resting phase. However, if the plant looks unhealthy, it might not be getting enough nutrition. Consider a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
What if the roots of my transplanted bear's paw are turning black?
Black roots usually indicate root rot, a result of overwatering or poor drainage. If the condition persists, consider repotting the plant in fresh, well-drained soil.
How can I encourage root growth after transplanting bear's paw?
Stimulate root growth by maintaining a stable environment, providing proper watering, moderate light, and applying a suitable fertilizer. This promotes healthier and quicker root establishment.
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These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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