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FAQ

How to Care for Globulea Hispida

The globulea hispida grows so fast that it often develops a dense "jungle" look. Its leaves appear red or pink when light is sufficient and temperatures are right, with its densely tomentose leaves presenting an adorable, fuzzy look.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Globulea hispida?

Globulea hispida doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What should I do if I water my Globulea hispida too much or too little?
Underwatered Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Globulea hispida looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Globulea hispida. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Globulea hispida is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Globulea hispida
Overwatering is dangerous to Globulea hispida and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Globulea hispida, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Globulea hispida. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Globulea hispida in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Globulea hispida?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Globulea hispida. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Globulea hispida about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Globulea hispida?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Globulea hispida needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Globulea hispida in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Globulea hispida has shallow root systems.
Globulea hispida will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Globulea hispida is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Globulea hispida can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Globulea hispida kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Globulea hispida?
The best way to water Globulea hispida is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Globulea hispida enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Globulea hispida, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Globulea hispida is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Globulea hispida.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Globulea hispida?

Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Globulea hispida adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Globulea hispida does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Globulea hispida adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Globulea hispida only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Globulea hispida in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Globulea hispida has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Globulea hispida?
Fertilizing Globulea hispida adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Globulea hispida?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Globulea hispida only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Globulea hispida in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Globulea hispida?
Like most plants, Globulea hispida has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Globulea hispida need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Globulea hispida?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Globulea hispida too much?
Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Globulea hispida?

Generally speaking, globulea hispida needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Globulea hispida need to grow?
Globulea hispida should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Globulea hispida will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Globulea hispida need?
Globulea hispida needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Globulea hispida from sun exposure?
Globulea hispida usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Globulea hispida is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Globulea hispida will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Globulea hispida doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Globulea hispida will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Globulea hispida may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Globulea hispida gets too much sunlight?
Globulea hispida may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Globulea hispida can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
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Does Globulea hispida need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Globulea hispida will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Globulea hispida?
It is best to water Globulea hispida in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Globulea hispida grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Globulea hispida is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Globulea hispida?

In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. This depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Globulea hispida?

Globulea hispida is suitable to grow in mild temperature in spring and autumn, and does not have good resistance to extreme cold weather. If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, globulea hispida may enter its dormancy. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death. Its growing season is in spring and autumn, and it needs a little water; in summer and winter, when it enters the dormancy period, watering should be reduced.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What's the ideal temperature for your Globulea hispida?
It is more suitable to keep the Globulea hispida in a particular range of conditions. Temperatures the same as 75-90℉ (25-32℃) are ideal for it. During the early winter season, the temperature shouldn't go below 75℉(25℃) for Globulea hispida. You can even move it indoors as it will have better protection from the extremes.
Despite that, the Globulea hispida can survive in some extreme temperatures. Sometimes can survive in low temperatures like 50℉ (15℃), but it is not ideal. You should bring it inside if winter conditions are expected outside.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Globulea hispida during different growing phases?
Globulea hispida has different growing phases. In the first stage, the dormant seed grows and transforms into a seedling. The dormant seeds need the appropriate conditions in their surroundings to grow as their seeds need a temperature of 75-90℉ (25-32℃) to germinate. The ideal time to make it grow vigorously is during the summer, as the most suitable temperature is around 85℉(30℃). You can adjust the placement of your Globulea hispida from indoors to sunlight during the hot summer months to receive enough sunlight.
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How can I keep my Globulea hispida warm in cold seasons?
It's advisable to bring your Globulea hispida indoors to avoid the harsh winter conditions. People opt to buy different types of grow light to provide enough sunlight for the plant. However, if your home is not extremely dark, it is not essential to buy these lights. Keep your plants where they will get the most sunlight possible. There should be sufficient light to keep the Globulea hispida thriving in winter. If you have several Globulea hispida, then keep them rotating so that they all receive enough sunlight.
Avoid placing your Globulea hispida too close to the window if you live in northern areas with frigid weather. The cold may be extreme to them, due to which they might get damaged.
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What happens to my Globulea hispida when the temperature is too high or too low?
Your Globulea hispida can grow better in summers and do better in warm temperatures 90℉(32℃) but you should protect it from temperature extremes during hot climates.
However, during winter, it is better to keep your plant dry. Globulea hispida do well in temperate climates having temperatures between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). However, some gardeners can expose their Globulea hispida to extreme temperatures causing stress in their plants. While high temperatures ranging between 90℉ and 95℉(32-35℃) can help maintain the deep colors for Globulea hispida, you must be careful when trying out such experiment. During the hot summer season extremely high temperatures can burn your Globulea hispida damaging their stem and root system. During the hottest time of the day (when the temperature is extremely high), consider relocating your plant to a shaded place or protect them with a shade cloth.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Globulea hispida in different seasons?
In summers, high temperatures make the growth of Globulea hispida slowed down to survive in too hot a temperature.
As the cooler periods and rainfall begins, the Globulea hispida starts growing. If the place you live in has hot summers and warm winters with more rainfalls, you aren't required to change anything.
However, if you live in a place with cold winters, you should let your Globulea hispida grow more in summer and rest in winter. It is because there is not enough sunlight for Globulea hispida to grow in winter.
You can help your Globulea hispida enter dormancy if you live in a place with cold temperatures by decreasing the temperature to 50℉ to 75℉ (15℃ to 25℃).
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How can I keep my Globulea hispida warm without a heating pad?
To withstand freezing temperatures outside, as a solution, you can insulate your Globulea hispida with frost cloths, row covers, tents etc. You can also mulch your Globulea hispida with small rocks. Mulching the Globulea hispida soil will provide warmth to your plants and will not let you over-water the plant.
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How can I protect my Globulea hispida from temperature damage?
Globulea hispida is adapted to sunlight and requires sufficient sunlight for healthy growth. You can place it in an outdoor environment without any shade. However, Globulea hispida shouldn't be kept for a long time in the blazing sunlight in the hot summer when it requires to be put under shade so that extreme temperature doesn't damage them. If the winter is extreme in our area, you must keep your Globulea hispida indoors to keep them away from frost.
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What are the tips and precautions for keeping my Globulea hispida at the right temperature?
Increase water and fertilizer during the growth of plants in spring and summer. Prevent your plant from receiving too much sunlight. To cool plants, spray water around them when the temperature is exceptionally high but don't put water on their stem.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Globulea hispida?

Soil is very important for the growth of globulea hispida, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Globulea hispida?

There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.

Propagation

Globulea hispida is a lovely plant. If you want to get more of this plant, you can propagate it as follows. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Globulea hispida. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before the propagation.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Globulea hispida dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Globulea hispida. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Globulea hispida to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Globulea hispida. After this period, Globulea hispida can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Globulea hispida?

When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Globulea hispida?

The prime time to transplant globulea hispida is during 'S1-S2', an exceptional period due to conducive growth conditions. Globulea hispida thrives in well-drained spots with bright, indirect light. For a successful transplant, be sure not to overwater, and protect it from frosty conditions.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Globulea hispida?

Flower Pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Globulea Hispida Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Globulea hispida thrives under consistent exposure to the sun, yet can endure situations where sunlight is somewhat filtered. Originating from an environment with ample sun exposure, the plant needs a good amount of light for optimal health. However, too much or too little light can lead to a decrease in the plant's vitality.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
1-2 inches
The prime time to transplant globulea hispida is during 'S1-S2', an exceptional period due to conducive growth conditions. Globulea hispida thrives in well-drained spots with bright, indirect light. For a successful transplant, be sure not to overwater, and protect it from frosty conditions.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
Globulea hispida isn't traditionally linked with Feng Shui due to its less known existence. However, placing it in a West-facing direction might represent element of metal, resonating prosperity and refinement in an ambiguous sense. However, these implications largely depend on applicable interpretations and personal beliefs.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation: ① use loose soil; ② use ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plant in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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1
Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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2
Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Globulea hispida based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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More About Globulea Hispida

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Height
Plant Height
40 cm
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
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Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida
Globulea hispida

How to Care for Globulea Hispida

The globulea hispida grows so fast that it often develops a dense "jungle" look. Its leaves appear red or pink when light is sufficient and temperatures are right, with its densely tomentose leaves presenting an adorable, fuzzy look.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Globulea hispida doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Globulea hispida adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Globulea hispida does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Globulea hispida adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Globulea hispida only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Globulea hispida in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Globulea hispida, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Globulea hispida can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Globulea hispida has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Generally speaking, globulea hispida needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. This depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Globulea hispida is suitable to grow in mild temperature in spring and autumn, and does not have good resistance to extreme cold weather. If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, globulea hispida may enter its dormancy. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death. Its growing season is in spring and autumn, and it needs a little water; in summer and winter, when it enters the dormancy period, watering should be reduced.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Soil is very important for the growth of globulea hispida, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.
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Propagation

Globulea hispida is a lovely plant. If you want to get more of this plant, you can propagate it as follows. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Globulea hispida. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before the propagation.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Globulea hispida dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Globulea hispida. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Globulea hispida to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Globulea hispida. After this period, Globulea hispida can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Globulea hispida?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The prime time to transplant globulea hispida is during 'S1-S2', an exceptional period due to conducive growth conditions. Globulea hispida thrives in well-drained spots with bright, indirect light. For a successful transplant, be sure not to overwater, and protect it from frosty conditions.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Globulea hispida?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Flower Pots
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More Info on Globulea Hispida Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation: ① use loose soil; ② use ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plant in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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1
Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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2
Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Globulea hispida based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More About Globulea Hispida

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Height
Plant Height
40 cm
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Globulea hispida thrives under consistent exposure to the sun, yet can endure situations where sunlight is somewhat filtered. Originating from an environment with ample sun exposure, the plant needs a good amount of light for optimal health. However, too much or too little light can lead to a decrease in the plant's vitality.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Globulea hispida is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Globulea hispida may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Globulea hispida enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Globulea hispida require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Globulea Hispida?
The prime time to transplant globulea hispida is during 'S1-S2', an exceptional period due to conducive growth conditions. Globulea hispida thrives in well-drained spots with bright, indirect light. For a successful transplant, be sure not to overwater, and protect it from frosty conditions.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Globulea Hispida?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Globulea Hispida?
For globulea hispida, the quintessential period for transplanting falls between late spring to early summer (S1-S2), when the season is most conducive for growth. Transplanting during this time provides your plant with ample warmth and sunlight it requires, enhancing its growth potential and overall vitality. Remember, your friendly touch during this season can make a huge difference in globulea hispida's journey towards maturity.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Globulea Hispida Plants?
When transplanting globulea hispida, space each plant 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) apart. This gives them room to grow and ensures they won't compete for resources. It's a small step that can greatly increase their health and vitality.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Globulea Hispida Transplanting?
For globulea hispida, prepare a soil base of sandy or loamy soil, as it allows good drainage. Mix in some compost or organic fertilizer for a nutrition boost. Healthy soil is the cornerstone of a thriving garden!
Where Should You Relocate Your Globulea Hispida?
Globulea hispida loves the sunshine! Try to choose a location where it will receive plenty of sunlight. A sunny countertop, south-facing window, or other sun-drenched spot would be perfect. Remember, a thriving globulea hispida is a sun-soaked globulea hispida!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Globulea Hispida?
Shovel or Garden Spade
To dig around and lift the globulea hispida plant without causing major damage to the roots.
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while handling soil and the plant.
Pruning Shears
To prune old roots or dead parts of the plant. Remember to make clean cuts to prevent disease infection.
Garden Trowel
To dig a hole at the new site for transplanting the globulea hispida plant.
Watering Can
To water the plant before and after the transplant.
Wheelbarrow or Bucket
To carry the globulea hispida plant safely from the old location to the new one.
Garden Hose (optional)
To moisten the soil if it is too hard and dry.
How Do You Remove Globulea Hispida from the Soil?
From Ground: First, generously water the globulea hispida plant to dampen the soil around it. Then, carefully dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel. Make sure to cause minimum disturbance to the root ball of the plant. Once you've loosened the soil around, carefully work the spade under the root ball and lift the plant gently from its original position.
From Pot: Before proceeding, water the plant gently. Overturn the pot and tap it slightly to encourage the globulea hispida plant to slide out. Try not to pull on the stem or leaves as it might damage the plant. If the plant doesn't slip out, running a knife around the inside of the pot can help to loosen the soil and roots.
From Seedling Tray: If the globulea hispida plant is in a seedling tray, you can gently push from the bottom to take the plant plug out. Try not to disturb the root ball while doing so.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Globulea Hispida
Dig the hole
The new hole should be twice the diameter of the globulea hispida plant’s root ball and slightly shallower. This is to ensure the plant does not sit too deep in the ground, which can lead to rot.
Preparing the plant
Once you've lifted the plant from its original location, gently remove any damaged or broken roots using pruning shears. Soak the roots in water for a few hours if they appear dry or wilted.
Placing the plant
Carefully place the globulea hispida plant in the prepared hole. Ensure the plant is at the same depth it was in its original location. This is crucial for the healthy growth and stability of the plant.
Backfilling
Backfill with the original soil you removed while digging the hole. Firm the soil lightly around the base of the plant, ensuring there aren't any air pockets left.
Watering
After transplantation, gently water the globulea hispida plant. This helps in settling down the soil and reduces transplant shock.
How Do You Care For Globulea Hispida After Transplanting?
Transplant Shock Management
The globulea hispida plant may show signs of transplant shock, like wilting or leaf drop, which is normal. Give it some time and try to keep the conditions ideal for the plant.
Maintenance Pruning
Remove any damaged or diseased plant parts promptly to maintain the overall health of the globulea hispida plant.
Monitoring
Keep a close watch on the plant for a few weeks after transplanting. Look for signs of diseases, pests, or any obvious stress on the plant.
Temperature Control
Maintain a conducive temperature and protect the globulea hispida plant from extreme weather conditions if outside.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Globulea Hispida Transplantation.
When's the ideal time to transplant globulea hispida?
The perfect time to transplant globulea hispida is during the S1-S2 periods. It's essential to choose this period to ensure better plant growth and development.
What's the ideal spacing I should maintain while transplanting globulea hispida?
For ideal growth, try to maintain a distance of 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) between each globulea hispida seedling. This will allow sufficient room for each plant to grow.
Should I moisturize the soil before transplanting globulea hispida?
Absolutely! Moisten the soil before you begin transplanting globulea hispida. This makes the soil easier to work with and provides initial hydration for the plant.
Why is my transplanted globulea hispida wilting?
Wilting could be due to a lack of water, or transplant stress. Ensure globulea hispida is getting enough water and try to minimize disturbances during transplanting.
How deep should I plant globulea hispida?
Avoid planting globulea hispida too deep. Ideally, set the plant so that the root ball top is just above the soil surface. This promotes healthier growth.
How do I handle globulea hispida during transplantation?
Take extra care while handling globulea hispida during transplantation. Avoid touching the roots as much as possible to prevent damage.
What kind of soil suits globulea hispida best during transplantation?
Globulea hispida prefers well-drained soil. Make sure your chosen potting mix isn't overly heavy or clayish, as this could hinder growth.
Can I transplant globulea hispida using clumps?
Yes, globulea hispida can be successfully transplanted in clumps. This is especially beneficial if the seedlings are too small or delicate to separate.
What should I do if the leaves of my transplanted globulea hispida start turning yellow?
Check your watering routine. Yellow leaves can indicate overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent root rot.
How soon after transplanting globulea hispida should I water it?
Water globulea hispida immediately after transplanting. This helps to settle the plant in the new pot, close air pockets in the soil, and reduce transplant stress.
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