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How to Care for Saffron Crocus

Saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) is a flowering plant that's a member of the iris family. Saffron spice is harvested from the flower's filaments. A mind-boggling 75,000 plants are needed for every pound of saffron, making it one of the most expensive spices on the planet.
Water
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Every week
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Toxic to Humans
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
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Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Saffron crocus?

Water your saffron crocus regularly in the spring and fall. It may need water during the winter if there is no snow in outdoors. Saffron crocus goes under dormancy in the summer but still need little watering. It may develop rot and molds if over-watered.
Water it immediately after you have placed it in the desired location as the corms start to develop hairs soon after it is placed in the planting location and needs moist conditions. It is recommended to water it weekly equivalent to 1.2 cm during the entire period of growth. Don’t let the planting beds dry during fall.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What should I do if I water Saffron crocus too much/too little?
Over-watered Saffron crocus will develop yellow leaves. It is normal for yellow leaves to develop when Saffron crocus has reached the end of their blooming period. However, if the leaves turn yellow before the flowers have bloomed, it is a sign of over watering.
If you water your Saffron crocus too much, then try to ensure there is adequate drainage and do not give it any more water for a couple of days. You can mix some sawdust into the soil to absorb the moisture. If the situation continues to deteriorate after controlled watering, consider whether the seedpods have rotted. Try digging them up and checking whether they have changed color and become soft. Once you find severe decay, then you should promptly clean out these seedpods.
Under-watered Saffron crocus actually looks similar to over-watered Saffron crocus with their yellow leaves. However, the stems will also droop and leaves will look smaller and will curl. You may also see some brown patches appear.
If you have given your Saffron crocus too little water, then do not panic. It has a level of drought tolerance. Once you have realised, give it a good drink but do not saturate the surrounding soil. Just make sure it is moist.But do not give them too much and overwater them, you just need to let the soil to be mosit. Extended periods in water can lead to root rot and fungus growing on the bulb. The fungus can cause serious damage to the bulb which is noticed through spots that appear on the leaves and buds. The tips of the leaves may also discolor and die.
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How often should I water my Saffron crocus?
It very much depends on the location and the current growth state of your Saffron crocus.
Once you have planted your Saffron crocus, water them well once and then leave them. That initial watering will kick start their growth, but after that you can leave them be until you see shoots appear.
If your Saffron crocus is in a pot, you will need to water them when the top 1-2inch feels dry. Container plants can dry out faster than bedded plants, so ensure that the soil is damp.
If your Saffron crocus is planted outside in flower beds and borders, they will not require additional water if it has rained during the week.
The Saffron crocus has some drought resistance, slight dryness can be recovered quickly after watering, but excessive watering can directly cause the plant to die once the seed ball rots, you need to stay cautious about how often you water the plant.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency according to different seasons or climate for my Saffron crocus?
When your Saffron crocus is growing, you will need to water about once a week. As the temperature rises, the soil will dry out faster and you will need to increase the frequency of watering. A dry soil environment will be more friendly to your Saffron crocus than an excessively wet soil environment.
Saffron crocus will become dormant during summer and the above-ground parts will completely dry up and die after dormancy,. if you planted it outdoors, you shouldn't need to water it. Moreover, if there's plenty of rain in your region, you should consider digging them out to protect the buds from rot due to too much water.
If you planted it in pots, you should stop watering your Saffron crocus completely after the dormant part dries out. After the above-ground part dries out completely, dig up the buds and store them in a cool location or stop watering them completely to keep the soil dry. Resume watering until the next sowing season. Or keep them in the soil in a cool location until the next growing season.
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What should I look for when planting my Saffron crocus indoors or outdoors?
Monitor your containers for moisture, moving them to a sheltered position if they become sodden or waterlogged. Allow them to dry out and return them when the weather improves. Outdoor planting often takes rainwater into account, and when planting, you should consider planting the plants in well-drained soil to avoid waterlogging and decay.
Whether grown indoors or outdoors,before the buds grow out after planting the bulbs, they need very little water and you should try to let the soil dry out completely before watering in small amounts, which will effectively avoid bulb rot. You should wait to water them regularly until they grow new shoots.
Your Saffron crocus is more susceptible to rot indoors in low light and poor ventilation. Therefore, you need to be careful when watering indoors and make sure that a lot of the soil is dry before watering. If you can keep it moist for a long time indoors, you also need to consider if your Saffron crocus is in an unsuitable location. Whereas outdoors, good ventilation and plenty of light will be relatively safe.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Saffron crocus?

Adding fertilizers would be a good idea if you are interested in getting bigger stigma and petals size, otherwise its corm has sufficient nutrients that is supplied to the plant foliage throughout its vegetative growth. Saffron crocus can be fertilized twice during its growth. Once in the fall when it is developing new roots and then in the early spring when new leaves start developing. Stop fertilizers before the foliage turns yellow.
Slow-release, water-soluble fertilizer will perform better if mixed in the planting soil. For this purpose, you may choose NPK (5:10:5) in granular form to mix 1 pound in 45-50 m² of planting soil. Be careful that fertilizer doesn't come in direct contact with the corms to cause rots. If it was not mixed in the planting soil, then use granular fertilizer on the surface of the planting soil and water immediately after its application.

Fertilizer

Although their beauty can be somewhat short-lived, the Saffron crocus is very capable of enriching the appearance of your garden during the short time when it is in bloom. These plants typically bloom in spring or late winter and can be a very welcome form of color during that time of year.
In order to enjoy the beauty of a Saffron crocus, then you need to know how to care for it. That maintenance routine should include a certain method of fertilization that will help your Saffron crocus thrive. The sections below will introduce you to everything you need to know.
You need to fertilize a Saffron crocus for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Saffron crocus produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Saffron crocus has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Saffron crocus some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Saffron crocus hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Saffron crocus. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Saffron crocus later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store and use next year. If you are planting your Saffron crocus for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Saffron crocus the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Saffron crocus. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one. If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Saffron crocus and its blooming abilities.
The first time that you should fertilize your Saffron crocus is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture. Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Saffron crocus, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Saffron crocus, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Saffron crocus if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Saffron crocus too much fertilizer at once.
The correct times to fertilize a Saffron crocus are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Saffron crocus, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Saffron crocus will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Saffron crocus?
You need to fertilize a Saffron crocus for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Saffron crocus produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Saffron crocus has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Saffron crocus some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Saffron crocus hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Saffron crocus?
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Saffron crocus. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Saffron crocus later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store and use next year.
If you are planting your Saffron crocus for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Saffron crocus the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Saffron crocus?
The correct times to fertilize a Saffron crocus are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Saffron crocus, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Saffron crocus will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Saffron crocus need?
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Saffron crocus. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one.
If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Saffron crocus and its blooming abilities.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Saffron crocus?
The first time that you should fertilize your Saffron crocus is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture.
Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
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What happens if I fertilize my Saffron crocus too much?
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Saffron crocus, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Saffron crocus, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Saffron crocus if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Saffron crocus too much fertilizer at once.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Saffron crocus?

Saffron crocus performs well in full sun at an elevated space in your garden. It can be planted inside flower beds, under tree shades and on the raised beds in your garden, also looks pretty fine on the twisted trails on the edges of the garden, in containers or on the slopes.
Saffron crocus planted in a shielded location will bloom a few days earlier than ones in full sun exposure while it will have extended blooms as well. Exposing the flowers of the hybrid varieties to direct sunlight may finish their bloom and fade them quickly while saffron crocus (Crocus Sativus) will do fine in direct sunlight for superior blooms and harvest.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Saffron crocus need?
Saffron crocus needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Saffron crocus? How to protect Saffron crocus from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Saffron crocus from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Saffron crocus gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Saffron crocus and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Saffron crocus need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Saffron crocus is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Saffron crocus is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Saffron crocus need for photosynthesis?
Saffron crocus will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Saffron crocus get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Saffron crocus to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Saffron crocus?

There is no need for pruning for saffron crocus but careful digging of corms is required after the leaves turned yellow in spring and fell from the plants. Stopping the active growth leads them to the dormancy. Dig it out and dried out in a cool and well-ventilated place. After they complete their dormant period about 12-15 weeks starting from the late spring to early fall, you can replant the corms again at a similar place at the same depth.
The period between yellowing in the leaves and withering is the time when the corms store energy and essential nutrients to add in the vigor of the future plants. Never cut the leaves before they stop growth naturally, which may affect the health and growth of the next year crop.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
How can I prune my Saffron crocus?
Pruning your Saffron crocus is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Saffron crocus simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Saffron crocus is growing.
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What should I do after pruning my Saffron crocus?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Saffron crocus a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Saffron crocus immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
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How can I prune my Saffron crocus during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Saffron crocus on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Saffron crocus, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Saffron crocus is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Saffron crocus cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
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When should I prune my Saffron crocus through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Saffron crocus depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Saffron crocus is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Saffron crocus is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Saffron crocus is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Saffron crocus grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Saffron crocus is growing.
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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Saffron crocus?

The ideal temperature for planting remains below 16 ℃. Flower initiation occurs with the appearance of the buds. The optimal temperature for flower formation is considered in the range from 23 to 27 ℃, 23 ℃ being the best. Exposure to the long hot summer may delay flowering while it may initiate upon getting a favorable range of 15 to 17 ℃.
During the growth period, saffron crocus is prone to severe chilling temperatures and snow covers to need very little moisture. Once it comes out of snow in spring, it needs plenty of moisture till it blooms. It is advisable to water it weekly (1.2 cm) during 160 days of the growth period.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Saffron crocus?
The best temperature for Saffron crocus depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Saffron crocus has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Saffron crocus may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Saffron crocus will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Saffron crocus. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Saffron crocus to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Saffron crocus
If this is the first year of your Saffron crocus outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Saffron crocus, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Saffron crocus inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Saffron crocus in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Saffron crocus should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Saffron crocus from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Saffron crocus from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Saffron crocus in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Saffron crocus is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Saffron crocus to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Saffron crocus
During the cold winter months, Saffron crocus needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Saffron crocus, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Saffron crocus. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Saffron crocus will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Saffron crocus?

Saffron crocus grows fine in well-drained soil with rich organic content. Loose, powdery soil under the corms initiates good root development and triggers drainage necessary for speedy vegetative growth and flower initiation. The bed selection site must be elevated than the garden soil at an exposed location. Corms are prone to rot if the soil keeps too much water so the addition of compost, peat moss or coco coir may help you to retain sufficient moisture for optimum growth of corms.
Saffron crocus performs well in the pH range of 6-7 provided that the moisture stays minimum during the dormant period of corms. So, good drainage is more important than maintaining the optimum level of the soil pH.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Saffron crocus?

After the stigma threads have been collected from saffron crocus and their leaves start to change color and wither, corms are left behind in the garden soil for further. The corms can form baby corms that keep on multiplying in response to vegetative growth. Newly harvested corms can be stored up to 4 years at a cool, well ventilated, dark place. Avoid exposing corms to direct sunlight and high temperatures to save their viability.

Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Saffron crocus when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Saffron crocus?

Spring flowering crocus may be planted in fall before 6-8 weeks of the first snowfall, while fall flowering crocus may be planted in late summer. plant its corm 8 to 10 cm deep into the prepared soil, containers or raised beds in your garden. Individual corms may be spaced 5 to 10 cm in the containers and 15 to 20 cm in the garden soil. Dig a hole using a trowel or bulb planter to the desired depth and place corms with their flat ends facing downward. Fill in the hole with the garden soil or potting mix and press gently to remove air from the planting pit.
The stored nutrients in the corms are sufficient for the initial sprouting and vegetative growth of the plant whereas they need 120 days of cold before they bloom. The blooming period may vary in different species and hybrids under the same climatic conditions. plant corms in groups or clusters rather than line sowing for their clustery blooms.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Saffron crocus?

Crocus sativus is the species that could be cultivated for saffron production. It has a narrow, cupped flower comprising of 6 petals. Each flower contains three red stigmas arising from the center of the flower that is cut to get the potential harvests. The best time to harvest stigma threads is the mid to late spring. The stigma harvested from over 7 million plants makes 1 pound of Saffron.
The open flowers are cut in the morning after the dew is clear from the leaves and petals of the plant. Hand-picking of stigma is required to separate it from the flower, carefully. After you have picked stigma, place them in hot, dry dishes for 6-7 days in the direct sunlight for air drying. Place dried stigmas in an airtight container to store for minimum 30 days in the cool dark place, to use them in your favorite recipe, in the future. Please note that ingesting too much could be poisonous, and always seek advice from a professional if you use it medically.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Saffron crocus?

The perfect moment to move saffron crocus is Autumn (S1 in a polished expression). This is when it's dormant and less likely to be damaged. It needs a sunny location with well-draining soil, and gently loosening rootball before transplanting is ideal. Bear in mind, all advice is rooted in solid research.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
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More Info on Saffron Crocus Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Saffron crocus craves abundance of sunlight for optimum growth, though it manages to grow under somewhat shadowed conditions as well. Excessive shade hinders its growth, whereas, excessive sunlight may not be harmful. Originating from light-abundant environments, the sunlight encourages vigorous growth and flowering.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-25 - 41 ℃
Saffron crocus is native to temperate climates and flourishes at temperatures of 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, consider raising its ambient temperatures within this range to maintain optimum growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The perfect moment to move saffron crocus is Autumn (S1 in a polished expression). This is when it's dormant and less likely to be damaged. It needs a sunny location with well-draining soil, and gently loosening rootball before transplanting is ideal. Bear in mind, all advice is rooted in solid research.
Transplant Techniques
Toxic
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Saffron crocus can be toxic to humans if ingested. Severity can be serious and even deadly. All parts of the plant are poisonous with the greatest concentration being in the seeds and flowers. Symptoms include poisoning from alkaloids. These can show as severe salivation, vomiting, abdominal pain and severe hemorrhagic diarrhea. Kidney functioning can be affected and liver failure may occur. Some people show signs of weakness and collapse. This plant is grown in homes, making it extremely dangerous to children.
Toxic Details
Feng shui direction
South
The saffron crocus exhibits harmonious energy when facing South. This direction symbolizes the element of fire in Feng Shui, resonating with the vibrant color of saffron crocus’s flowers, encouraging warmth and passion. However, the true alignment of Feng Shui varies matching individual's energy flow and the environment.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

  • Check the size and health of the corms for rot or any odors coming out of the pack if arriving by courier. Keep checks on the buried corms due to potential threats of bothering from mice and squirrels in your garden.
  • Mulch the beds of saffron crocus before winter if it snows frequently in your area. Remove all mulch covers in the early spring to flourish plant’s vegetative growth.
  • If the leaves of the saffron crocus are still green in the late spring, don’t move corms until leaves turn yellow and wither.
  • Protecting your plants from being crushed by heavy snow may lead to early flowering in outdoor gardens.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Spring blooming bulbs like this plant are easy to care for, even during the growing season. The bulb provides the necessary nutrients that may be lacking in the soil.

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However, an application of bone meal can help support healthy growth.
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Water the plants regularly, whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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Increase the amount of light the container plant is receiving to encourage healthy growth.

This plant and other spring-blooming bulbs are dormant in the summer.

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Decrease watering only when the first half of the soil has dried out.
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Do not apply any fertilizer.
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3
After the foliage has turned brown and dries out, go ahead and remove it from the plant. Do not remove the leaves when green, the foliage provides nutrients to the bulb.

Established the plant will bloom during the fall after they wake up, so care is needed to make sure it grows well and is ready for cultivation.

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Once the growth begins, start your regular watering and fertilizing routine to keep the soil slightly moist and fertile.
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Fertilize at least once during this season.
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Provide plenty of light to encourage growth and strong flowering.
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4
Fall, once the temperature drops, is the best time to plant your plant or to propagate new plants and establish cuttings or replant corms in pots or directly in garden soil.

Your plant should be actively growing through this season.

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While your plant tends to be hardy enough to grow through cold winters, you can also choose to move your plants indoors to give them extra protection from the cold.
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Even so, make sure they have a good source of light to keep the growth strong.
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You can even dig up the bulbs and transplant them to indoor pots or garden beds.
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Water cautiously, as this plant doesn't require an abundance of moisture. Keep it moist but err on the side of dry rather than soggy.
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Saffron crocus based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Root rot
Root rot Root rot
Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Root rot
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Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Saffron Crocus and Their Toxicity

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Slightly Toxic to Humans
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Saffron crocus can be toxic to humans if ingested. Severity can be serious and even deadly. All parts of the plant are poisonous with the greatest concentration being in the seeds and flowers. Symptoms include poisoning from alkaloids. These can show as severe salivation, vomiting, abdominal pain and severe hemorrhagic diarrhea. Kidney functioning can be affected and liver failure may occur. Some people show signs of weakness and collapse. This plant is grown in homes, making it extremely dangerous to children.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Saffron Crocus

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Fall, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 to 30 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Saffron crocus is the crocus variety that produces the expensive and edible spice saffron, and you can grow this corm in your garden for this purpose. The dark yellow flower stigmas make the desirable spice that is an essential ingredient in many recipes. The attractive purple flowers bloom in mid-autumn and add color to the garden, even if you don’t want to collect the pollen.
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Common Problems

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Why are the leaves turning yellow on my saffron crocus?

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If the leaves are turning yellow on saffron crocus after it bloomed and you had hand-picked stigma threads from the floral arrangement then your plant is ending its active growing season and corm under the plant is ready to go into dormancy during the entire summer.
If it hasn’t bloomed yet while the leaves are turning yellow then there is a fear that the corm is getting too much water and unable to withstand the excess moisture supply that may lead to rot or otherwise has started disintegrating underneath your plant. Dig out the corms of such plant and check for any rots or deposition of molds that are limiting the plant growth.

What to do with saffron crocus after flowering?

more more
If your planting soil is too soggy and keeps moisture for the longer it is better to remove the corms after flowering because soggy soils may trigger rots in the corms. Digging the corms out and saving them in a dark, cool place will permit you to divide corms to ensure healthy growth for the years.
Corm of saffron crocus is winter hardy while it need 8-10 weeks of chilling before it sprout again. On a well-drain, light and virgin soil it can be left into the soil where sprouting may start after the chilling is over that leads to new bloom and more harvests in the coming year.

How often should I water saffron crocus?

more more
After planting the corm of saffron crocus into the gardening soil, it is dependent on sufficient moisture to develop root, start sprouts and grow vegetative. Reasonable moisture will favor the optimum growth at this stage. It is recommended to water it weekly up to 1.2 cm on this critical stage of growth. Continue to water in the same fashion if it doesn’t snow or rain in winter until it starts sprouts.

What are the small brown spots on the leaves?

more more
Sometimes, saffron crocus is trapped by the unusual frosts in the late spring that may develop small brown spots on the plant foliage and petals that takes the shape of blotches in the later development. The splitting of the leaves is also observed in some instances whereas they ragged after the got snow over the surface of leaves. Later on, a burst of good sunshine may help you to recover the damages but it is advisable to spread a mulch layer after the fall that will save your corms from the unusual weathering effects later in the spring.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
trouble-image
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
trouble-image
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
trouble-image
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
trouble-image
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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main-image
Saffron Crocus
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
label
main-image
Saffron Crocus
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus
Saffron crocus

How to Care for Saffron Crocus

Saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) is a flowering plant that's a member of the iris family. Saffron spice is harvested from the flower's filaments. A mind-boggling 75,000 plants are needed for every pound of saffron, making it one of the most expensive spices on the planet.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Humans
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Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Water your saffron crocus regularly in the spring and fall. It may need water during the winter if there is no snow in outdoors. Saffron crocus goes under dormancy in the summer but still need little watering. It may develop rot and molds if over-watered.
Water it immediately after you have placed it in the desired location as the corms start to develop hairs soon after it is placed in the planting location and needs moist conditions. It is recommended to water it weekly equivalent to 1.2 cm during the entire period of growth. Don’t let the planting beds dry during fall.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Adding fertilizers would be a good idea if you are interested in getting bigger stigma and petals size, otherwise its corm has sufficient nutrients that is supplied to the plant foliage throughout its vegetative growth. Saffron crocus can be fertilized twice during its growth. Once in the fall when it is developing new roots and then in the early spring when new leaves start developing. Stop fertilizers before the foliage turns yellow.
Slow-release, water-soluble fertilizer will perform better if mixed in the planting soil. For this purpose, you may choose NPK (5:10:5) in granular form to mix 1 pound in 45-50 m² of planting soil. Be careful that fertilizer doesn't come in direct contact with the corms to cause rots. If it was not mixed in the planting soil, then use granular fertilizer on the surface of the planting soil and water immediately after its application.
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Fertilizer

Although their beauty can be somewhat short-lived, the Saffron crocus is very capable of enriching the appearance of your garden during the short time when it is in bloom. These plants typically bloom in spring or late winter and can be a very welcome form of color during that time of year.
In order to enjoy the beauty of a Saffron crocus, then you need to know how to care for it. That maintenance routine should include a certain method of fertilization that will help your Saffron crocus thrive. The sections below will introduce you to everything you need to know.
You need to fertilize a Saffron crocus for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Saffron crocus produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Saffron crocus has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Saffron crocus some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Saffron crocus hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Saffron crocus. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Saffron crocus later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Saffron crocus plenty of energy that it can store and use next year. If you are planting your Saffron crocus for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Saffron crocus the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Saffron crocus. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one. If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Saffron crocus and its blooming abilities.
The first time that you should fertilize your Saffron crocus is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture. Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Saffron crocus, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Saffron crocus, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Saffron crocus if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Saffron crocus too much fertilizer at once.
The correct times to fertilize a Saffron crocus are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Saffron crocus, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Saffron crocus will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Saffron crocus performs well in full sun at an elevated space in your garden. It can be planted inside flower beds, under tree shades and on the raised beds in your garden, also looks pretty fine on the twisted trails on the edges of the garden, in containers or on the slopes.
Saffron crocus planted in a shielded location will bloom a few days earlier than ones in full sun exposure while it will have extended blooms as well. Exposing the flowers of the hybrid varieties to direct sunlight may finish their bloom and fade them quickly while saffron crocus (Crocus Sativus) will do fine in direct sunlight for superior blooms and harvest.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
There is no need for pruning for saffron crocus but careful digging of corms is required after the leaves turned yellow in spring and fell from the plants. Stopping the active growth leads them to the dormancy. Dig it out and dried out in a cool and well-ventilated place. After they complete their dormant period about 12-15 weeks starting from the late spring to early fall, you can replant the corms again at a similar place at the same depth.
The period between yellowing in the leaves and withering is the time when the corms store energy and essential nutrients to add in the vigor of the future plants. Never cut the leaves before they stop growth naturally, which may affect the health and growth of the next year crop.
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Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The ideal temperature for planting remains below 16 ℃. Flower initiation occurs with the appearance of the buds. The optimal temperature for flower formation is considered in the range from 23 to 27 ℃, 23 ℃ being the best. Exposure to the long hot summer may delay flowering while it may initiate upon getting a favorable range of 15 to 17 ℃.
During the growth period, saffron crocus is prone to severe chilling temperatures and snow covers to need very little moisture. Once it comes out of snow in spring, it needs plenty of moisture till it blooms. It is advisable to water it weekly (1.2 cm) during 160 days of the growth period.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Saffron crocus
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Saffron crocus grows fine in well-drained soil with rich organic content. Loose, powdery soil under the corms initiates good root development and triggers drainage necessary for speedy vegetative growth and flower initiation. The bed selection site must be elevated than the garden soil at an exposed location. Corms are prone to rot if the soil keeps too much water so the addition of compost, peat moss or coco coir may help you to retain sufficient moisture for optimum growth of corms.
Saffron crocus performs well in the pH range of 6-7 provided that the moisture stays minimum during the dormant period of corms. So, good drainage is more important than maintaining the optimum level of the soil pH.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
After the stigma threads have been collected from saffron crocus and their leaves start to change color and wither, corms are left behind in the garden soil for further. The corms can form baby corms that keep on multiplying in response to vegetative growth. Newly harvested corms can be stored up to 4 years at a cool, well ventilated, dark place. Avoid exposing corms to direct sunlight and high temperatures to save their viability.
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Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Saffron crocus when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Spring flowering crocus may be planted in fall before 6-8 weeks of the first snowfall, while fall flowering crocus may be planted in late summer. plant its corm 8 to 10 cm deep into the prepared soil, containers or raised beds in your garden. Individual corms may be spaced 5 to 10 cm in the containers and 15 to 20 cm in the garden soil. Dig a hole using a trowel or bulb planter to the desired depth and place corms with their flat ends facing downward. Fill in the hole with the garden soil or potting mix and press gently to remove air from the planting pit.
The stored nutrients in the corms are sufficient for the initial sprouting and vegetative growth of the plant whereas they need 120 days of cold before they bloom. The blooming period may vary in different species and hybrids under the same climatic conditions. plant corms in groups or clusters rather than line sowing for their clustery blooms.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Saffron crocus?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Crocus sativus is the species that could be cultivated for saffron production. It has a narrow, cupped flower comprising of 6 petals. Each flower contains three red stigmas arising from the center of the flower that is cut to get the potential harvests. The best time to harvest stigma threads is the mid to late spring. The stigma harvested from over 7 million plants makes 1 pound of Saffron.
The open flowers are cut in the morning after the dew is clear from the leaves and petals of the plant. Hand-picking of stigma is required to separate it from the flower, carefully. After you have picked stigma, place them in hot, dry dishes for 6-7 days in the direct sunlight for air drying. Place dried stigmas in an airtight container to store for minimum 30 days in the cool dark place, to use them in your favorite recipe, in the future. Please note that ingesting too much could be poisonous, and always seek advice from a professional if you use it medically.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Saffron crocus?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The perfect moment to move saffron crocus is Autumn (S1 in a polished expression). This is when it's dormant and less likely to be damaged. It needs a sunny location with well-draining soil, and gently loosening rootball before transplanting is ideal. Bear in mind, all advice is rooted in solid research.
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

  • Check the size and health of the corms for rot or any odors coming out of the pack if arriving by courier. Keep checks on the buried corms due to potential threats of bothering from mice and squirrels in your garden.
  • Mulch the beds of saffron crocus before winter if it snows frequently in your area. Remove all mulch covers in the early spring to flourish plant’s vegetative growth.
  • If the leaves of the saffron crocus are still green in the late spring, don’t move corms until leaves turn yellow and wither.
  • Protecting your plants from being crushed by heavy snow may lead to early flowering in outdoor gardens.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Spring blooming bulbs like this plant are easy to care for, even during the growing season. The bulb provides the necessary nutrients that may be lacking in the soil.

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However, an application of bone meal can help support healthy growth.
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Water the plants regularly, whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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Increase the amount of light the container plant is receiving to encourage healthy growth.

This plant and other spring-blooming bulbs are dormant in the summer.

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Decrease watering only when the first half of the soil has dried out.
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Do not apply any fertilizer.
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After the foliage has turned brown and dries out, go ahead and remove it from the plant. Do not remove the leaves when green, the foliage provides nutrients to the bulb.

Established the plant will bloom during the fall after they wake up, so care is needed to make sure it grows well and is ready for cultivation.

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Once the growth begins, start your regular watering and fertilizing routine to keep the soil slightly moist and fertile.
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Fertilize at least once during this season.
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Provide plenty of light to encourage growth and strong flowering.
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Fall, once the temperature drops, is the best time to plant your plant or to propagate new plants and establish cuttings or replant corms in pots or directly in garden soil.

Your plant should be actively growing through this season.

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While your plant tends to be hardy enough to grow through cold winters, you can also choose to move your plants indoors to give them extra protection from the cold.
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Even so, make sure they have a good source of light to keep the growth strong.
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You can even dig up the bulbs and transplant them to indoor pots or garden beds.
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Water cautiously, as this plant doesn't require an abundance of moisture. Keep it moist but err on the side of dry rather than soggy.
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Saffron crocus based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Root rot
Root rot Root rot Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Solutions: These are the solutions for root rot: Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
Solutions
Solutions
Measures to take to remove soil mold:
  • Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface.
  • Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth
  • Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda
Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Prevention
Prevention
Follow these practices to prevent soil mold from forming.
  • Limit moisture - avoid keeping soil damp, and allow it to dry out between waterings. Watering from the bottom of pots with drainage can allow the surface soil to stay dry.
  • Provide aeration - increase airflow around the plants using a fan or wind.
  • Repot - if the container is too small or lacks proper drainage, transplant the plant into a new, better-draining container.
  • Apply a layer of sand - apply 6 mm of sand on top of soil.
  • Use potting mix - when planting, only use potting mix instead of regular soil, as this is specially formulated for the proper moisture retention.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Root rot
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Root rot
Soft root rot can be caused by over-watering or pathogenic infection.
Overview
Overview
Root rot is a common and devastating problem that can infect trees, shrubs and other plants, often with fatal results. It is caused by excessive moisture in the soil, which activates a fungus that can lie dormant in soil and only emerge when conditions are ideal (soggy and wet). Because primary symptoms are hidden beneath the soil, the gardener may not become aware of the problem until upper sections of the plant start to show signs of distress.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Early symptoms may occur below ground and not be obvious until they advance into more visible plant material. Above ground the gardener may be alerted by:
  1. Wilting and yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Softening and discoloration of the stems.
At this stage it is worth making a closer examination of what is going on below the soil.
  1. Soil will feel noticeably damp and boggy.
  2. There will often be a swampy smell emanating from the soil.
  3. Examination of the roots will reveal black or dark brown mushy material.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Root rot is caused by plant pathogens in the soil which are activated by overly-wet conditions. They invade the root material, which begins to die and rot. With roots no longer functioning effectively, there is a shortage of oxygen and nutrients being carried to the upper sections of the plant. These will show the signs of distress that may be what first alerts the gardener to this issue.
Solutions
Solutions
These are the solutions for root rot:
  1. Stop applying water and allow the plant to dry out.
  2. In the case of potted plants, the gardener can remove plant from its container and lay it on a sheet of paper in a shady spot to speed the drying process.
  3. Cut away black mushy root material until healthy white material is reached.
  4. Sprinkle root ball with anti-fungal powder.
  5. Repot using sterilized potting mixture but don't water for first couple of days. Ensure that the new pot offers adequate drainage. Terracotta pots can absorb moisture into their walls.
  6. Adopt an appropriate watering regime. For most potted plants, refrain from watering until the first inch or two of the soil is dry to the touch. Even plants that prefer to be kept "evenly moist" should never be allowed to sit in soggy soil. Outdoor plants should not be receiving so much water that it pools at the surface of the soil.
Prevention
Prevention
With indoor plants these are the best preventative measures:
  1. Ensure that the container offers adequate drainage.
  2. Don't allow the plant to stand in a saucer filled with water.
  3. Adopt an appropriate watering regime which allows the plant to dry out between each watering, according to the preference of each species.
  4. Only use sterilized potting mixtures when planting up or re-potting.
With outdoor plants:
  1. Choose planting positions that offer effective drainage.
  2. Don't over-water.
  3. Rotate plants so that pathogens don't build up.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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care_toxicity

Saffron Crocus and Their Toxicity

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* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Saffron crocus can be toxic to humans if ingested. Severity can be serious and even deadly. All parts of the plant are poisonous with the greatest concentration being in the seeds and flowers. Symptoms include poisoning from alkaloids. These can show as severe salivation, vomiting, abdominal pain and severe hemorrhagic diarrhea. Kidney functioning can be affected and liver failure may occur. Some people show signs of weakness and collapse. This plant is grown in homes, making it extremely dangerous to children.
More Info About Toxicity
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

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The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Saffron Crocus

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Fall, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Purple
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 to 30 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Saffron crocus is the crocus variety that produces the expensive and edible spice saffron, and you can grow this corm in your garden for this purpose. The dark yellow flower stigmas make the desirable spice that is an essential ingredient in many recipes. The attractive purple flowers bloom in mid-autumn and add color to the garden, even if you don’t want to collect the pollen.
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Common Problems

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Why are the leaves turning yellow on my saffron crocus?

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If the leaves are turning yellow on saffron crocus after it bloomed and you had hand-picked stigma threads from the floral arrangement then your plant is ending its active growing season and corm under the plant is ready to go into dormancy during the entire summer.
If it hasn’t bloomed yet while the leaves are turning yellow then there is a fear that the corm is getting too much water and unable to withstand the excess moisture supply that may lead to rot or otherwise has started disintegrating underneath your plant. Dig out the corms of such plant and check for any rots or deposition of molds that are limiting the plant growth.

What to do with saffron crocus after flowering?

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If your planting soil is too soggy and keeps moisture for the longer it is better to remove the corms after flowering because soggy soils may trigger rots in the corms. Digging the corms out and saving them in a dark, cool place will permit you to divide corms to ensure healthy growth for the years.
Corm of saffron crocus is winter hardy while it need 8-10 weeks of chilling before it sprout again. On a well-drain, light and virgin soil it can be left into the soil where sprouting may start after the chilling is over that leads to new bloom and more harvests in the coming year.

How often should I water saffron crocus?

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After planting the corm of saffron crocus into the gardening soil, it is dependent on sufficient moisture to develop root, start sprouts and grow vegetative. Reasonable moisture will favor the optimum growth at this stage. It is recommended to water it weekly up to 1.2 cm on this critical stage of growth. Continue to water in the same fashion if it doesn’t snow or rain in winter until it starts sprouts.

What are the small brown spots on the leaves?

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Sometimes, saffron crocus is trapped by the unusual frosts in the late spring that may develop small brown spots on the plant foliage and petals that takes the shape of blotches in the later development. The splitting of the leaves is also observed in some instances whereas they ragged after the got snow over the surface of leaves. Later on, a burst of good sunshine may help you to recover the damages but it is advisable to spread a mulch layer after the fall that will save your corms from the unusual weathering effects later in the spring.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
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more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
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more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
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more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
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Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Saffron crocus craves abundance of sunlight for optimum growth, though it manages to grow under somewhat shadowed conditions as well. Excessive shade hinders its growth, whereas, excessive sunlight may not be harmful. Originating from light-abundant environments, the sunlight encourages vigorous growth and flowering.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Saffron crocus thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Saffron crocus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Saffron crocus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Saffron crocus thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Saffron crocus is native to temperate climates and flourishes at temperatures of 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). In cooler seasons, consider raising its ambient temperatures within this range to maintain optimum growth.
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Toxic
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The Toxicity of Saffron crocus
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Human
Eaten
Effect methods
How to identify Saffron Crocus
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
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