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Basic Care
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FAQ

How to care Field Pumpkin

Field pumpkin are most commonly seen as decorations throughout the autumn and during the Halloween holiday, when they are carved and used as traditional jack-o'-lanterns. While the taste of field pumpkin flesh may not be ideal, eating the seeds after toasting them with a bit of salt can be a delicious treat!
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Irrigate with overhead sprinklers or drip tape. The key is to let the top crust of soil dry between watering. Also, make sure that there is always moisture 2.5 to 5 cm down. Ideally, you would have medium moisture with a pH of 5.5–5.9.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Fertilized well, plants can be heavy producers. Apply large amounts of organic matter (farm manure or compost, not necessarily fully decomposed). Incorporate fertilizer into the planting hole or furrow. Add fertilizer of 15-15-30 (N-P-K)—half before planting, half 30 days later. Multiple applications of fertilizer throughout summer help as opposed to one large application are much more efficient. Since fertilizer leaches, multiple applications allow the squash to have consistent nutrients available.

Fertilizer

Field pumpkin species can provide you with delicious fresh vegetables all summer long, which is why they are so popular with home gardeners. You may have heard that Field pumpkin does best with a lot of fertilizer, but it can be difficult to determine just what that means, and how to best feed your garden.
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Field pumpkin for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
Field pumpkin is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Field pumpkin requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Field pumpkin, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Field pumpkin needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Field pumpkin without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Field pumpkin, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Field pumpkin is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Over-fertilizing Field pumpkin can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Field pumpkin. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Field pumpkin to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure. Avoid giving Field pumpkin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Field pumpkin when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Field pumpkin?
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Field pumpkin for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Field pumpkin?
Field pumpkin is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Field pumpkin requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Field pumpkin, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Field pumpkin to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Field pumpkin?
Avoid giving Field pumpkin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Field pumpkin when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
Read More more
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What type of fertilizer does my Field pumpkin need?
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Field pumpkin needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Field pumpkin without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Field pumpkin, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Read More more
lock
How do I fertilize my Field pumpkin?
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Field pumpkin is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Read More more
lock
What happens if I fertilize my Field pumpkin too much?
Over-fertilizing Field pumpkin can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Field pumpkin. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Field pumpkin prefers little or no shade. Full to medium sunlight is ideal. Intercropping with corn gives the perfect amount of light to stimulate growth without causing sunburn. In hotter climates, this is especially beneficial.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Field pumpkin need to grow?
Exact needs vary, but a minimum of 6 to 8 hours per day is a good rule of thumb for Field pumpkin to grow and produce fruit.
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What type of sunlight does Field pumpkin need?
Field pumpkin requires full sun, meaning that it should be grown in a location that gets direct sunlight that isn’t blocked by obstacles such as trees, fences, or buildings. In general, the faster the plant grows, the more hours of sunlight it will need. Morning sun is best for photosynthesis.
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Should I protect Field pumpkin from sun exposure?
Field pumpkin should not need to be protected from the sun in most climates. Those who live in a desert or near the equator may find that the sun is too harsh for the types of plants they want to grow, but this is the exception.
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What will happen if Field pumpkin doesn't get enough sunlight?
All plants need sunlight to convert into energy. Plants that have a short growing season need even more light and energy than those that grow slowly, as they need to complete all their processes to grow and produce fruit within just a few months.
The first symptoms of insufficient sunlight in Field pumpkin are pale and yellow leaves that are not able to generate enough chlorophyll to keep their healthy green color. The leaves may eventually fall off, and new growth is small and weak. The plant may become leggy and sparse as it stretches toward the available light.
Finally, without enough light the plant will not be able to produce large, high-quality edible leaves or fruit. Field pumpkin needs to devote a lot of energy into growing leaves and fruits, so if there isn’t enough light available for it to convert, the harvest will suffer.
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What will happen if Field pumpkin gets too much sunlight?
Field pumpkin can get sunburned from intense sunlight, especially when coupled with high temperatures and not having enough water. Afternoon sun tends to be most likely to burn plants. Scalded leaves develop faded patches of light brown to white on the areas at the top of the plant that are exposed to the most sun. They are especially vulnerable to this right after being transplanted from a shadier location to being in full sun. Transitioning plants gradually or providing them with a barrier while they are adjusting can help prevent sunscald in young plants.
In many cases, Field pumpkin develops leaves that are large enough to protect fruits from the strongest rays of the sun. However, if intense sunlight is in contact with fruits, they can also be damaged. Avoid over-pruning those protective leaves so that the fruits don’t get burned.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Field pumpkin?
Field pumpkin may become unbalanced if it gets significantly more light on one side than the other. Ideally, you can plant your Field pumpkin in a location away from obstacles that might block light, and where the distribution of sunlight is even on all sides.
Be careful about planting tall species next to those that grow closer to the ground. It may not be obvious when the crops are first planted, but over time the taller plants may begin to block the amount of sunlight that can reach the shorter plants.
Morning sun helps to dry dew and precipitation, which helps prevent infection from diseases that can develop when water sits on the plant. If you are watering or irrigating your Field pumpkin, this should be done in the morning.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Thin the plants, so that they do not compete for space. One very healthy and productive plant is better than two struggling plants. Prune down unwieldy plants once they are well established if they are taking up too much space.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Field pumpkin?
Pruning is not always necessary for a field Field pumpkin, but it can help this plant during its fruit development stage. Pruning during fruit development helps your field Field pumpkin grow fewer but larger fruits on each of its fruit-bearing vines. Along with the main goal of aiding fruit production, pruning also helps you control the spread of your field Field pumpkin, which can become quite long and may outcompete other plants in your garden. Still, your Field pumpkin will probably survive and produce relatively well, even if you prune it minimally or not at all. But if you want the best results possible, some well-timed pruning is what you should use.
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When is the best time to prune my Field pumpkin?
Rather than planning to prune your Field pumpkin during a certain month or after any set duration, you should prune based on the appearance of your plant. Generally, you won’t need to prune your Field pumpkin until it has developed vines that are at least ten feet long. At that size, your Field pumpkin will likely have some developing fruits as well. The presence of these developing fruits is the best indicator that you should get your pruning tools ready. Additionally, you can perform light pruning when you notice your Field pumpkin has developed too many secondary or tertiary vines. Once your Field pumpkin has begun developing fruits, you should remove all but about four to five pumpkins from the main stem. You can also remove all tertiary vines and any secondary vines that don't hold viable fruits. Cucurbita pepo 'Zucchini' only have one vine. It also helps to remove all flowers and fruits that grow below the tenth leaf of the main vine, as measured from the center of the plant. Any male flowers or undersized fruits will take up vital nutrients that would be better allocated towards developing a few large pumpkins on your plant.
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How can I prune my Field pumpkin?
Before you make any cuts on your field Field pumpkin, you should identify which parts of the plant you wish to remove. Start by identifying the main vines, then note any secondary veins that grow from the main vine. If those secondary vines have additional tertiary vines growing out of them, it is a good idea to remove the tertiary vines. Once you have removed any tertiary vines, you should take stock of how many fruits each of the remaining vines holds. The main vines should hold no more than four or five fruits, while the secondary vines should hold no more than two fruits if you hope for the best quality harvest. Use your pruning tools to remove all but two fruits from each vine by cutting the excess fruit stems as close to their parent vine as possible. Field pumpkin only have one vine. It also helps to remove all flowers and fruits that grow below the tenth leaf of the main vine, as measured from the center of the plant. Any male flowers or undersized fruits will take up vital nutrients that would be better allocated towards developing a few large pumpkins on your plant.
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What should I do after pruning my Field pumpkin?
Most of the pruning for the Field pumpkin takes place during the fruit development stage, in anticipation of the harvest stage. If your pruning included the removal of secondary or tertiary vines, you should take each cut vine and bury its end into the soil or into mulch. Burying the cut ends will help prevent infections and infestations, and will help your plant loose less moisture via the pruning wounds. When your fruits reach a harvestable stage, be sure to pick them from the vines before the first frost arrives. After harvest, you can cut the main vines of your Field pumpkin at their bases. Then you should remove the plant’s root system and consider composting the entirety of the plant if no parts appear diseased.
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How can I prune my Field pumpkin through different growth stages?
You won’t need to prune your Field pumpkin much or at all during its initial growth phases. During those phases, your seed will germinate and begin developing its main vines above the ground. These vines typically grow just fine on their own. However, if, for whatever reason, you want your plant to have more branching vines rather than a few main vines, you can pinch off the buds at the end of your plant at this time. Later, when the plant has developed to a fruiting stage, you should perform the main pruning tasks described in the section above. Upon finding fruits developing on your Field pumpkin vines, you may also want to prune the end of the vines just beyond the outermost viable fruit, which will help your plant put energy toward fruit growth rather than more vine growth.
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How can I prune my Field pumpkin during different seasons?
During the winter and most of the spring season, you won’t need to do any pruning for your field Field pumpkin, as your seeds will not yet be in the ground. After planting your seeds, which is usually best to do during late spring or early summer, you can continue waiting until your plant has grown to a length of ten feet or more before doing most of your pruning. These main pruning tasks will take place during late summer or fall, depending on where you live and when you planted your seeds. When winter arrives again, you will also have no pruning tasks as your Field pumpkin will have ended its life cycle around the time of the first frost.
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Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Field pumpkin?
As your field Field pumpkin matures, you’ll notice that it develops a set of large leaves. The way you treat these leaves during pruning requires you to be somewhat cautious. On the one hand, it is well known that more leaves on the Field pumpkin often lead to better-tasting fruits. On the other hand, if your plant has so many leaves that they trap excess moisture, the result can be moisture-related diseases that may kill your Field pumpkin or inhibit its ability to produce. So, as you prune, aim to keep as many leaves as you can while also monitoring those leaves for disease development. Another important disease factor is rainfall. Generally, it is best not to prune your plant before or just after rain. The moisture left by the rainfall allows for an easier transfer of disease to your plant. Each time you prune, you should also ensure that you use a set of sharp shears that are sterile as well, as this also lessens the odds of infection.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Field pumpkin has a tremendous ability to handle climate variation. Field pumpkin can be grown from the temperate zone to the tropics, as long as there’s warm growing season. It is frost sensitive, but can tolerate cool temperatures well. Freezing temperatures will kill it. The optimum temperature is intermediate. It may be planted outdoors after the last spring frost and soil temperatures rise up.
Field pumpkin is drought tolerant, but prefers fertile, moist, well-drained soils. Moisture should be kept at a medium level. The top crust of soil should dry out between watering, but there should always be moist soil down 2.5 to 5 cm. If fruits are left to lay on the ground, as opposed to hanging in the air from a lattice, excess moisture can cause rotting. Rest fruits on mulch, straw or board to resist rot.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Field pumpkin?
There is an ideal temperature range that makes Field pumpkin feel at home. Under these temperature conditions, it's unlikely that you’ll have any issues with cold or hot damage to the foliage, but changing leaf colors can absolutely be a sign that Field pumpkin isn’t happy. Try to keep your Field pumpkin well within its preferred range of 70-85℉(21-30℃), but don’t panic if the temperature creeps up past 85℉(30℃) during the day or down to 70℉(21℃) at night.
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How can I protect Field pumpkin from extreme temperatures outdoors?
If your Field pumpkin happens to be planted outside, then there’s not much you can do to try to move it indoors. However, you can certainly provide cover in ways that will help it survive any extreme temperatures that may arise unexpectedly. For instance, you can always use a few stakes and some cloth to put together a shade tent that will block out much of the sun’s intense heat from direct sunlight exposure.
Similarly, Field pumpkin can be protected from the extreme cold and especially chilly winds by building a small greenhouse around the plant, which will create a greenhouse effect and warm the plant up. This can be done using garden stakes and any sort of clear or translucent plastic you may have around; if you have greenhouse plastic such as polycarbonate laying around, this works perfectly. Remove the greenhouse once temperatures warm up to 40℉(10℃) at night.
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Does Field pumpkin need different temperatures in different seasons?
Generally speaking, Field pumpkin needs to stay within its preferred temperature range all year long. However, that doesn’t mean that care should stay the same all year long. During the warmest months of the year, Field pumpkin will need a little extra shade and a bit more of a breeze to help it cope with the hottest days. On the other hand, it may need to be moved away from chilly windows and doors during the cooler months in climates where temperatures drop below 40℉(10℃) at any point in the year.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Field pumpkin?
Keeping your Field pumpkin at the right temperature can be fairly simple. Depending on where you grow it, Field pumpkin can be fairly easy to accommodate. For indoor growing, you can easily move the plant to different locations within your indoor space that best meet its temperature requirements. Avoid placing it near air conditioning vents, heaters, doors that open frequently, or drafty windows.
It is a little more difficult to control the temperature around your Field pumpkin if it’s grown outside. Of course, if it’s planted in a pot, you can simply bring it indoors when the temperatures outside get too hot or too cold for Field pumpkin, but otherwise, you may need to take different measures to protect it from extreme heat or cold that may damage it irreversibly. Try placing Field pumpkin under cover to protect from both the harsh sun that can overheat it and any cold wind that could be potentially deadly for your plant.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

The ideal soils are fertile, organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained moisture-retentive loams. However, light sandy soils and heavy clay soils also work. The key is to keep the ground well-drained. Because of this, loam soils are best. These allow roots to spread down and help yields. Nutrient-rich compost and fertilizer will pay off with increased yield and fruit size.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Field pumpkin propagates with seeds. If you want to harvest the seeds, normally harvested squash should experience a step of after-ripening which lasts for one month to several months. Trailing plants can be propagated by cutting, but not usually.

Propagation

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Field pumpkin is easily grown from seed. Start seeds indoors about 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Transplant young plants after the last frost date since seedlings are cold sensitive. Seeds are planted one inch deep in warm soil, and they need ample room. If focusing on bush cultivars, plant in double rows. Trailing cultivars need to be widely spaced as they cover the soil surface for several feet on each side.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The plot should be checked every day as the fruits grow very quickly. Summer squashed mature rapidly and can be harvested in as little as 50 days. Winter squashed can take over 120 days to fully ripen. plants will continue to produce until the first frost if all fruits are picked prior to maturity. Harvest winter squash when mature, but prior to the first fall frost. For Halloween pumpkins, look for when the rind is hard and cannot be poked by finger-nail and fruit is orange. Pumpkins or spaghetti squashes can last several months.
Summer (immature) squash is delicate and needs to be handled with care and placed into containers lined with paper or plastic. If kept at temperatures of 24 to 32 ℃, they can be used within 5–6 days or 20–25 days at 10 ℃.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Field pumpkin should be planted after the danger of frost is gone and soil is warm enough to germinate the seed. The fruits should be harvested during summer. The best squash is harvested continually when still very tender.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The summer heat can take a toll on fruit-bearing plants like this plant.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, watering the plant from the bottom in the morning.
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Southern gardeners may want to ensure their plants receive shade in the afternoon but ensure the plant receives plenty of sunlight in the morning.
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3
Remove any dead or dying leaves from and around the plant to prevent issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Continue regular fertilization to encourage healthy growth in the fall.

For some plants, fall is harvest time. For this plant, you can either harvest or sow seeds during this season.

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If your plant is ready for harvest during fall, make sure to pick the fruits before they go bad; this will look different depending on the variety.
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For fruits that are still developing, continue to water and fertilize as usual until they’re ready.
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3
The plants will need sunlight exposure to keep developing.
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4
Prune away overcrowding leaves to keep the plant healthy, and watch out for pests and diseases, such as fungal infections.

Your plant will need minimal care during the winter, but it still requires some attention to cold protection if you want to continue growing it during this cold season.

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If you want to overwinter your plant in cold and freezing climates, it's best to take it indoors and keep it sheltered from the low temperatures.
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Otherwise, you can try to keep your outdoor plants warm by covering them with tarps during cold weather and exposing them to the sun during the day. You can keep growing the plant outside in more tropical locations.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Field pumpkin based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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More About Field Pumpkin

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Annual, Perennial
Spread
Spread
91 to 488 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 76 cm

Name story

Field pumpkin
The origin of pumpkin comes with an extraordinarily harsh past. It was first originated from the word, pepon from the Greek language, meaning large melon. The French then changed the word, pepon to pompon, followed by the British changing from pompon to pumpion. Supposedly, the naming decision was concluded. However,the name was finally settled when the Americans decided to revise the naming to pumpkin. Furthermore, it is usually grown in paddy fields, so it is called field pumpkin.

Usages

Garden Use
Field pumpkin is often planted by enterprising backyard gardeners hoping to grow some of their own produce at home. This plant is highly popular for its appearance and the popular fruit it produces. A mainstay of the backyard vegetable garden, field pumpkin is best planted with beans, borage, dill, garlic, and oregano for the health of the soil and insect-repelling properties.
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Common Problems

What is the difference between Cucurbita pepo and Cucurbita maxima?

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While both have very similar uses, there are some differences in use and anatomy. C. pepo has stems that remain on the fruit. this stem is actually the peduncle that is dry and hard. There is very little corky pith. It is the handle of jack-o-lanterns. The stem of C. maxima mainly detaches from the fruit. In addition, C. pepo is normally harvested while fruit rinds are tender for zucchini or yellow squash, although Halloween pumpkins and spaghetti squash are an exception. But C. maxima fruits are harvested after the rind is firm and forms hard protection.

Which flowers should I pick and eat?

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Pick flowers that have stamens (male) not a pistil (female). If in doubt, look under the flower. If it seems to have a very tiny zucchini, leave it alone. this is a female flower and you need it to yield fruit. If not, it is a male flower and you can pick it. You must leave some male flowers to fertilize the female flowers though.

Are all squashes edible?

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While the species C. pepo is edible, there are other plants in the squash family (Cucurbitaceae) which are not edible. They are often very bitter. Some are used medicinally like Momordica charantia. Others have high levels of Cucurbitacin and can cause nausea and vomiting. If you try squash and it is extremely bitter, it may have crossed with a wild variety or had temperature swings that caused too much cucurbitacin to be produced. It is better not to eat it if it is extremely bitter.
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Field pumpkin
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Field pumpkin
Field pumpkin
Field pumpkin

How to care Field Pumpkin

Field pumpkin are most commonly seen as decorations throughout the autumn and during the Halloween holiday, when they are carved and used as traditional jack-o'-lanterns. While the taste of field pumpkin flesh may not be ideal, eating the seeds after toasting them with a bit of salt can be a delicious treat!
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Symbolism

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Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Irrigate with overhead sprinklers or drip tape. The key is to let the top crust of soil dry between watering. Also, make sure that there is always moisture 2.5 to 5 cm down. Ideally, you would have medium moisture with a pH of 5.5–5.9.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Fertilized well, plants can be heavy producers. Apply large amounts of organic matter (farm manure or compost, not necessarily fully decomposed). Incorporate fertilizer into the planting hole or furrow. Add fertilizer of 15-15-30 (N-P-K)—half before planting, half 30 days later. Multiple applications of fertilizer throughout summer help as opposed to one large application are much more efficient. Since fertilizer leaches, multiple applications allow the squash to have consistent nutrients available.
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Fertilizer

Field pumpkin species can provide you with delicious fresh vegetables all summer long, which is why they are so popular with home gardeners. You may have heard that Field pumpkin does best with a lot of fertilizer, but it can be difficult to determine just what that means, and how to best feed your garden.
Naturally every type of plant requires nutrients to grow properly, but when we grow Field pumpkin for its fruit, the harvest will be best if the soil is supplemented to provide more of what plants need. Each of the main macronutrients provides something different to plants. Phosphorus is the key nutrient that promotes the formation of flowers and fruit. Of course, a plant cannot produce flowers and fruit without a proper root system and healthy leaves to absorb sunlight, so the nutrients that support those parts of the plant are also necessary. Without enough of the necessary macronutrients, plants lack vitality, grow more slowly, and may wilt. Plants have to devote a lot of energy to flowering and fruiting, so if they are lacking in these main components that support their processes the resulting fruits will show that deficiency as well.
Field pumpkin is a summer crop, and needs to be planted in the spring to produce fruits during the summer months. Check the specific variety to see when it should be planted. Field pumpkin requires rich, fertile soil to yield high quality produce. Before planting, mix a 2 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. These materials add nutrients to the soil that can help kick-start growth for your Field pumpkin, and also increase the drainage of the soil. Transplants can be fertilized immediately after planting, but seedlings should reach a height of 2 to 4 inches before being fertilized for the first time. For established plants, feed about every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season, until the first frost or when the plant stops producing.
The best way to know what kind of fertilizer your Field pumpkin needs is to first determine what is already plentiful in your soil and what might be lacking. The best way to understand this is to use a soil test to better understand your soil composition, although many people are able, through trial and error, to successfully grow Field pumpkin without doing a test. You can find a commercial fertilizer specifically for almost any variety of Field pumpkin, but it’s not necessary to purchase a different one for every vegetable you decide to grow. If you can determine their basic needs along with what is already available in your soil, you will be able to use the same fertilizer for many different plants. Many growers like to use a high-phosphorus fertilizer that supports flowers and fruits. High-phosphorus fertilizers are those that have an NPK ratio in which the middle number is highest, such as 8-32-16 or 10-30-10. That said, some people just use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for all of their garden plants to keep things simple.
Different types of fertilizer will come with their own individual instructions, including the need to dilute some varieties or carefully measure out others. Be sure to follow these instructions carefully and do your research so you can avoid over fertilizing your garden. If your Field pumpkin is planted in a row, the side-dressing method can be used to be sure that fertilizer reaches the roots but no fertilizer touches the plant itself. This method involves mixing the fertilizer into the soil along the rows on either side, about 3 to 4 inches away from the base of the plant. Water then washes the nutrients into the soil and down to the roots. If side-dressing does not work for the configuration of your garden, you can always apply your fertilizer to the soil around the plant, again staying about 3 to 4 inches away. Granular type fertilizers can be scattered onto the soil, then lightly mixed in to make sure they are incorporated where you want them. Water thoroughly after applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are mixed into a watering can and the mixture is used to water and fertilize plants at the same time. Foliar feeding involves spraying the leaves with a specialized fertilizer mix instead of putting nutrients into the soil.
Over-fertilizing Field pumpkin can lead to root burn and even the death of the entire plant in extreme cases. More often, the plant will develop a lot of lush green foliage, but the flowering and fruiting will be reduced. With more leaves, there is also the danger of inviting more pests that feed on your Field pumpkin. It is possible to over-fertilize with both natural fertilizers or chemical fertilizers, although the latter is more common. Nitrogen is the most likely to cause problems but any nutrient in excess will cause similar problems. When using multiple types of fertilizer of soil amendment, make sure you understand everything that they will be introducing to your soil. If you add several different soil amendments that all contain the same nutrient, you could overdo it before you realize what has happened. Finally, it is important to avoid applying too much fertilizer as it can pollute groundwater. Unused nitrogen is not absorbed into the soil, so it can drain into nearby water sources and cause high concentrations of nitrates. High levels of nitrogen-nitrate are unhealthy for human and animal consumption, so it is very important to only use as much fertilizer as plants need.
Check the specific fertilizer type as well as the variety of Field pumpkin to be sure that you are customizing your fertilization schedule to your situation. It is always better to fertilize less if you are not sure. Avoid giving Field pumpkin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms or fruits. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Don’t fertilize Field pumpkin when temperatures are high or when conditions are very dry. Doing so can cause the fertilizer to wash through the soil without being absorbed. Plants also have less ability to absorb nutrients during hot weather, which can allow the fertilizer to stay in the soil and prevent the plants from being able to take up water. This can be dangerous to plants during a drought or heatwave.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Field pumpkin prefers little or no shade. Full to medium sunlight is ideal. Intercropping with corn gives the perfect amount of light to stimulate growth without causing sunburn. In hotter climates, this is especially beneficial.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Thin the plants, so that they do not compete for space. One very healthy and productive plant is better than two struggling plants. Prune down unwieldy plants once they are well established if they are taking up too much space.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Field pumpkin has a tremendous ability to handle climate variation. Field pumpkin can be grown from the temperate zone to the tropics, as long as there’s warm growing season. It is frost sensitive, but can tolerate cool temperatures well. Freezing temperatures will kill it. The optimum temperature is intermediate. It may be planted outdoors after the last spring frost and soil temperatures rise up.
Field pumpkin is drought tolerant, but prefers fertile, moist, well-drained soils. Moisture should be kept at a medium level. The top crust of soil should dry out between watering, but there should always be moist soil down 2.5 to 5 cm. If fruits are left to lay on the ground, as opposed to hanging in the air from a lattice, excess moisture can cause rotting. Rest fruits on mulch, straw or board to resist rot.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The ideal soils are fertile, organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained moisture-retentive loams. However, light sandy soils and heavy clay soils also work. The key is to keep the ground well-drained. Because of this, loam soils are best. These allow roots to spread down and help yields. Nutrient-rich compost and fertilizer will pay off with increased yield and fruit size.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Field pumpkin propagates with seeds. If you want to harvest the seeds, normally harvested squash should experience a step of after-ripening which lasts for one month to several months. Trailing plants can be propagated by cutting, but not usually.
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Propagation

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.

Only sow Field pumpkin seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Field pumpkin in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started! What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Field pumpkin is easily grown from seed. Start seeds indoors about 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Transplant young plants after the last frost date since seedlings are cold sensitive. Seeds are planted one inch deep in warm soil, and they need ample room. If focusing on bush cultivars, plant in double rows. Trailing cultivars need to be widely spaced as they cover the soil surface for several feet on each side.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
The plot should be checked every day as the fruits grow very quickly. Summer squashed mature rapidly and can be harvested in as little as 50 days. Winter squashed can take over 120 days to fully ripen. plants will continue to produce until the first frost if all fruits are picked prior to maturity. Harvest winter squash when mature, but prior to the first fall frost. For Halloween pumpkins, look for when the rind is hard and cannot be poked by finger-nail and fruit is orange. Pumpkins or spaghetti squashes can last several months.
Summer (immature) squash is delicate and needs to be handled with care and placed into containers lined with paper or plastic. If kept at temperatures of 24 to 32 ℃, they can be used within 5–6 days or 20–25 days at 10 ℃.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Field pumpkin should be planted after the danger of frost is gone and soil is warm enough to germinate the seed. The fruits should be harvested during summer. The best squash is harvested continually when still very tender.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The summer heat can take a toll on fruit-bearing plants like this plant.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, watering the plant from the bottom in the morning.
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Southern gardeners may want to ensure their plants receive shade in the afternoon but ensure the plant receives plenty of sunlight in the morning.
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3
Remove any dead or dying leaves from and around the plant to prevent issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Continue regular fertilization to encourage healthy growth in the fall.

For some plants, fall is harvest time. For this plant, you can either harvest or sow seeds during this season.

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If your plant is ready for harvest during fall, make sure to pick the fruits before they go bad; this will look different depending on the variety.
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For fruits that are still developing, continue to water and fertilize as usual until they’re ready.
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3
The plants will need sunlight exposure to keep developing.
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Prune away overcrowding leaves to keep the plant healthy, and watch out for pests and diseases, such as fungal infections.

Your plant will need minimal care during the winter, but it still requires some attention to cold protection if you want to continue growing it during this cold season.

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If you want to overwinter your plant in cold and freezing climates, it's best to take it indoors and keep it sheltered from the low temperatures.
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Otherwise, you can try to keep your outdoor plants warm by covering them with tarps during cold weather and exposing them to the sun during the day. You can keep growing the plant outside in more tropical locations.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Field pumpkin based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot  Fruit Spot  Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot  Leaf rot  Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew  Powdery Mildew  Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars  Caterpillars  Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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More About Field Pumpkin

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Annual, Perennial
Spread
Spread
91 to 488 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 76 cm

Name story

Field pumpkin
The origin of pumpkin comes with an extraordinarily harsh past. It was first originated from the word, pepon from the Greek language, meaning large melon. The French then changed the word, pepon to pompon, followed by the British changing from pompon to pumpion. Supposedly, the naming decision was concluded. However,the name was finally settled when the Americans decided to revise the naming to pumpkin. Furthermore, it is usually grown in paddy fields, so it is called field pumpkin.

Usages

Garden Use
Field pumpkin is often planted by enterprising backyard gardeners hoping to grow some of their own produce at home. This plant is highly popular for its appearance and the popular fruit it produces. A mainstay of the backyard vegetable garden, field pumpkin is best planted with beans, borage, dill, garlic, and oregano for the health of the soil and insect-repelling properties.
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Common Problems

What is the difference between Cucurbita pepo and Cucurbita maxima?

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While both have very similar uses, there are some differences in use and anatomy. C. pepo has stems that remain on the fruit. this stem is actually the peduncle that is dry and hard. There is very little corky pith. It is the handle of jack-o-lanterns. The stem of C. maxima mainly detaches from the fruit. In addition, C. pepo is normally harvested while fruit rinds are tender for zucchini or yellow squash, although Halloween pumpkins and spaghetti squash are an exception. But C. maxima fruits are harvested after the rind is firm and forms hard protection.

Which flowers should I pick and eat?

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Pick flowers that have stamens (male) not a pistil (female). If in doubt, look under the flower. If it seems to have a very tiny zucchini, leave it alone. this is a female flower and you need it to yield fruit. If not, it is a male flower and you can pick it. You must leave some male flowers to fertilize the female flowers though.

Are all squashes edible?

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While the species C. pepo is edible, there are other plants in the squash family (Cucurbitaceae) which are not edible. They are often very bitter. Some are used medicinally like Momordica charantia. Others have high levels of Cucurbitacin and can cause nausea and vomiting. If you try squash and it is extremely bitter, it may have crossed with a wild variety or had temperature swings that caused too much cucurbitacin to be produced. It is better not to eat it if it is extremely bitter.
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