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Home > Plant Care Guide > Rainbow Tree

How to Care for Rainbow Tree

The rainbow tree (Dracaena angustifolia) is native to Asia and is a member of the asparagus family that grows in the understories of tropical forests. Ornamentally, it can function both as an indoor and outdoor shrub. Substances from the rainbow tree can be used to create green dye.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Rainbow tree
Rainbow tree
Rainbow tree
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Compared with other indoor plants, rainbow tree requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that rainbow tree is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

Water

Potted Rainbow tree
The Rainbow tree plant is a relatively tough species that is pretty tolerant to drought. This is why you need to water this only about every 1-2 weeks when you feel the soil is bone dry, especially if it is planted in a pot. Water generously until you see that the water begins to trickle down the pot's drainage holes. Make sure to remove the water from the saucer after an hour, and don't let it stand on the pot.Whenever you water, make sure the soil is completely moist. Use bottled distilled water whenever possible since these are sensitive to fluoride. When you notice that the tips begin to turn yellow, this is where you might want to do the light misting several times a week.Use a watering can or a sprinkler with purified or distilled water. Make sure to evenly water the entire surface of the soil so the stems won't rot. Use distilled water from time to time to avoid the death of the plant, leaf burn, or stunted growth instead of tap water.
These Rainbow tree plants love high humidity and thrive in it. However, winter is when the humidity is low, and the indoor ones are more susceptible to wilting. Lightly mist the leaves with sprays so you can maintain the healthy growth of the plant in the spring and summer.
A high-quality humidifier might also help during winter. Also, use cold water on the plants during winter as this can cause permanent damage and root shock. Allow the water to warm at room temperature before you put it on the plants. Using heating appliances can dehydrate indoor air, so you might want to add more mist.
Ground Rainbow tree
When they are planted in your garden, you need to consider the rainfall the plant is receiving. The roots don't like to sit in the water, so make sure to have proper irrigation as part of the landscape. Water 1 time every 2 weeks, especially if you live in a tropical area with plenty of rain and monsoons. Check every 1-2 weeks to make sure the soil has 1 inch moisted by rainfall to allow it to grow well. Water them every one week during the summer when it’s very hot outside. During the growing season and in spring, use the same amount of water as well. They need a lot of water when they are growing so you might want to give them a drink regularly. If it’s winter or fall, know that you should only water every 2 to 4 weeks,this is when you notice that the soil is completely dried out. There’s rainwater, seasonal changes, and moisture around the environment to consider so never overwater.
Some use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment in the water, but this is not recommended for regular use. The hydrogen peroxide will stimulate rainwater but only do this occasionally. A filtration system might also be valuable for removing nitrates, salt, and lead that might be contained in the water.
Underwater and overwater
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant. These species are very sensitive to boron and fluoride that are usually found in tap water, and you might be able to see that they have too much of the minerals when the leaves begin to droop.
When the Rainbow tree are underwatered, the stems also show wrinkles. Due to lack of water, the leaves become wilted and drooping, appearing lifeless at the very beginning. The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out if the water shortage is severe. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves. Check the plant's environment and make sure it is in a well-ventilated location so that the soil dries faster to prevent it from rotting again later.
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Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method of watering my Rainbow tree?
Misting can be a good way to keep the leaves hydrated but not too soggy. Always make sure that there's good drainage to prevent root rot. The plant can be sensitive to fluoride, which is often common in the public water supply, and this species does not tolerate hard water, especially if it's in its growing stages.
Use a watering can or a sprinkler with purified or distilled water. Make sure to evenly water the entire surface of the soil so the stems won't rot. Use distilled water from time to time to avoid the death of the plant, leaf burn, or stunted growth instead of tap water. Another option is to utilize rainwater whenever it's available. Keep the soil moist every time but prevent it from being too soggy if the Rainbow tree is planted in a pot.
If it's outside planted in your garden, you need to have proper drainage and allow the soil to dry completely before you turn on the sprinkler or the garden hose, as this can lead to root rot and yellowing leaves.
Some use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment in the water, but this is not recommended for regular use. The hydrogen peroxide will stimulate rainwater but only do this occasionally. A filtration system might also be valuable for removing nitrates, salt, and lead that might be contained in the water.
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What should I do if I water Rainbow tree too much/too little?
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant. These species are very sensitive to boron and fluoride that are usually found in tap water, and you might be able to see that they have too much of the minerals when the leaves begin to droop.
When the Rainbow tree is underwatered, the stems also show wrinkles.
The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves.
Read More more
How often should I water my Rainbow tree?
The Rainbow tree is a relatively tough species that is pretty tolerant to drought. This is why you need to water this only about every 1-2 weeks when you feel the soil is bone dry, especially if it is planted in a pot. Water generously until you see that the water begins to trickle down the pot's drainage holes. Make sure to remove the water from the saucer after an hour, and don't let it stand on the pot.
When they are planted in your garden, you need to consider the rainfall the plant is receiving. The roots don't like to sit in the water, so make sure to have proper irrigation as part of the landscape. Water 1 time every 2 weeks, especially if you live in a tropical area with plenty of rain and monsoons.
Read More more
How much water does my Rainbow tree need?
As a general rule of thumb, you should water Rainbow tree when you notice that about 2 inch of the top soil is already dry, especially when you grow it outdoors. When planted in the garden, you need to make sure that the Rainbow tree is getting its watering needs at least once every two weeks. There’s rainwater, seasonal changes, and moisture around the environment to consider so never overwater.
This can also apply when the pot is approximately 2 inches dry when it is grown indoors. If they are inside the house or grown in the nursery, try watering more frequently at least once a week since they might not be able to get the rainwater or extra moisture that they need indoors. As long as you notice that the plant leaves are sagging, then don’t hesitate to give them a drink.
The roots should be kept moist but not soggy. The best way to water them is to soak the pot and allow the water to drain. Make sure to water only when the soil is partially dry, and don't give them a specific schedule. They are not very thirsty plants, so wait a couple of days before giving them a drink. Well-draining soils can also help them grow and always put them in place with high humidity.
Water them every 1 to 2 weeks during the summer when it’s very hot outside. During the growing season and in spring, use the same amount of water as well. They need a lot of water when they are growing so you might want to give them a drink regularly.
If it’s winter or fall, know that you should only water every 2 to 4 weeks. This is when you notice that the soil is completely dried out.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Rainbow tree adequately?
Most of the time, schedules of bi-weekly or weekly watering should be more than enough for the Rainbow tree. Wait until the soil is 2 to 4 inches dry, especially if you have adult plants, to avoid excess watering. Pour generously until you see that the water comes out of the drainage holes. No standing water should be allowed, and remove the excess from the saucers. Root rot can happen if there's too much water, so it's always better to give too little than too much for this species.
The soak and dry method is more than enough for the plants whether they are indoors or outdoors. The soil around the plant should be completely soaked and make sure to record on an app or in your calendar each time you water. Allow the soil to dry to prevent root rot and help them develop a healthier root system. Water with a sprinkle or a can deep enough to reach the roots to prevent the plant from wilting.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Rainbow tree according to different seasons or climates?
The soil bed or the pots should be moist during the spring or fall. However, prevent them from getting soggy. Reduce watering during winter or towards the end of the fall. Remember that soil that's too dry or too wet might result in plant issues.
Allow the Rainbow tree to dry out before watering, especially in the winter. When there's too much dryness in the soil, use distilled water and saturate them thoroughly. Avoid cold water as much as possible. Occasional misting during the summer or the winter, as well as fertilizer in the spring, can help.
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Should I change the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Rainbow tree?
Water at least twice a week during its growing season, and you'll find that they can grow quicker. When they are in their early stages, the Rainbow tree is very sensitive to the minerals in tap water, so it's best to expose them to rainwater or filtered water.
While they are young, exposure to unnecessary chemicals can result in stunted growth and discoloration. A balanced fertilizer and watering whenever the soil is dry can help during the growing season.
In the growing season, the watering should be 1 to 2 times a week. When it's already established, you might want to water it once every 3 weeks. When you report a grown Rainbow tree, you need to water the soil well to make it damp. You can also wipe the leaves with a wet cloth to keep the insects away and to help them have more humidity during summer.
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Should I water my Rainbow tree differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Depending on the location of the plants, it's best to water them frequently when they are indoors. Just make sure that they are far away from any heating appliances. The natural humidity of the room can be enough, but the plant might prefer the high humidity outdoors during the summer, especially if it resembles that of a rainforest's habitat.
Water the plants once every two weeks and lightly mist them at least thrice every seven days to keep them healthy if they are planted in a pot. One way of checking it is by removing the pot and seeing if the roots are already dry. This is possible with plastic pots, but you can always check with a moisture meter if you can't remove the pot.
When grown outdoors, you need to consider the plant's rainwater, especially in spring and summer. You might want to water this once every 1-2 weeks during the summer.
Avoid watering this during the late fall and winter, and only provide them a drink when you see brown spots on the leaves. They only need occasional watering when planted in your garden, and you need to transplant them indoors so they can survive the cool conditions during the winter. Some use a lot of mulch during the fall, but when growing in a cold zone, you should consider digging it and transplanting it, watering it occasionally, and waiting for the frost to pass.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Rainbow tree in different seasons, climates, and during different growing periods?
The Rainbow tree loves high humidity and thrive in it. However, winter is when the humidity is low, and the indoor ones are more susceptible to wilting. Lightly mist the leaves with sprays so you can maintain the healthy growth of the plant in the spring and summer. It would also help to place the plants on trays that are filled with water and pebbles to create humidity around the Rainbow tree during winter but make sure to drain the saucer afterwards.
A high-quality humidifier might also help during winter. Also, use cold water on the plants during winter as this can cause permanent damage and root shock. Allow the water to warm at room temperature before you put it on the plants. Using heating appliances can dehydrate indoor air, so you might want to add more mist.
Place the pots near it and let them absorb the mist. Use bottled distilled water whenever possible since these are sensitive to fluoride. When you notice that the tips begin to turn yellow, this is where you might want to do the light misting several times a week.
Another thing is when you're using tap water from the local supply, just let it sit overnight. This will reduce chlorine and other chemicals that might be mixed into the water. Distilled water is always the best alternative.
During the summer, be careful with overwatering. The brown tips suggest that there's not enough moisture in the air, and you should add some when the Rainbow tree shows an indication that it’s thirsty.
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Why is watering my Rainbow tree important?
Watering the Rainbow tree will help them grow beautiful foliage. This species can bring beauty all year round, and you might want to ensure that the leaves remain green regardless of the season.
Watering it according to its needs can prevent many problems often associated with too much soil moisture. You can prevent root rot, fungal diseases, and brown tips on the potted plants and those planted on the ground.
It's best to use a watering can with tepid water when you notice that the soil is dry on the ground and in the pot. Use lukewarm water and look for signs of yellow foliage. The yellowing leaves are typically a sign that this species needs water. On the other hand, the brown tips indicate that you might be overwatering, so it's best to stop and give the soil time to dry regardless of whether they were planted outdoors or indoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Rainbow tree has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.

Fertilizer

Rainbow tree typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Rainbow tree is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Rainbow tree, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Rainbow tree the right way.
The primary reason why Rainbow tree needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Rainbow tree must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Rainbow tree will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Rainbow tree will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Rainbow tree will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Rainbow tree is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Rainbow tree will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Rainbow tree has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Rainbow tree while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Rainbow tree is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Rainbow tree lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Rainbow tree.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Rainbow tree should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Rainbow tree are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Rainbow tree water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Rainbow tree. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Rainbow tree will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Rainbow tree will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Rainbow tree?
The primary reason why Rainbow tree needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Rainbow tree must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures.
If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Rainbow tree will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Rainbow tree will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Rainbow tree?
Rainbow tree will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Rainbow tree is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes.
During the growing season, your Rainbow tree will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Rainbow tree?
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Rainbow tree. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Rainbow tree will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Rainbow tree will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Rainbow tree need?
The fertilizer for a Rainbow tree has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Rainbow tree while you supply water.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Rainbow tree?
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Rainbow tree is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots.
Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Rainbow tree lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Rainbow tree.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Rainbow tree too much?
The signs of improper fertilization for a Rainbow tree should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Rainbow tree are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Rainbow tree water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Rainbow tree require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Rainbow tree need per day?
Rainbow tree needs a lot of indirect, filtered, or dappled light when grown indoors, so they should be kept in a sunny location all day. Of course, the number of daylight hours that occur naturally can vary depending on the season, but a good rule of thumb is a minimum of 6 hours, including up to 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Even many hours of indirect sun will not hurt Rainbow tree; it is only direct sun that you need to be careful about.
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What type of sunlight does Rainbow tree need?
Rainbow tree in the wild get a lot of sunlight throughout the whole day. The sunlight is dappled and mostly indirect since it is filtered through the leafy canopy of tall trees growing above. When grown indoors, Rainbow tree should be provided with bright indirect light in a sunny windowsill or via grow lights.
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Does Rainbow tree need to avoid sun exposure?
Rainbow tree does not need to avoid sun exposure completely, but the type of sunlight should be appropriate. They should not be exposed to more than 6 hours of direct sun each day. Direct sun means that the sunlight is hitting the plant directly. Indirect light could be reflected off other objects near the plant, or could be direct sun that is filtered by something such as a sheer curtain. So Rainbow tree should be protected from excessive direct sun.
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How should I protect Rainbow tree from sun and heat damage?
Sunlight can hurt Rainbow tree that are not adapted to growing in direct sun. There are several ways to protect Rainbow tree from bright sunlight. First, choose a location that gets indirect light for most of the day. If the location is too bright, move the plant farther into the room away from the window. Or, you can cover the window with a light curtain or blinds. Any of these methods protect your Rainbow tree from both sun scorching and excessive heat from the sun.
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What happens to Rainbow tree if it gets too much sunlight?
Too much direct sunlight will scorch the plant’s leaves, especially the upper leaves which are hit with the majority of the sun’s rays. Scorched spots on the leaves look brown and dry. Entire leaves may also wilt and turn brown. Being grown in full sun can cause the soil to dry out too quickly. In extreme cases, too much sun could kill the plant.
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What happens to Rainbow tree if it receives insufficient sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Rainbow tree become etiolated (tall and stretched out) and lose color in their leaves. Over time, the plant is not able to generate enough energy through photosynthesis to support its continued survival, and will die if it is kept in a dark location.
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Does Rainbow tree need special attention to sunlight during different growth stages?
Rainbow tree should get bright indirect light regardless of their growth stage. If anything, consistency in lighting conditions will get you the best results. Once you’ve found a location where your plants are happy, it is best not to move them. However, you should monitor the location and move plants if sunlight gets too intense during summer or becomes too dark in winter.
The amount of light can affect other elements of plant care as well, particularly temperature and watering frequency. More sunlight and heat will cause water to evaporate from the soil faster, meaning you would need to water more often. Less sunlight also usually means less watering, and usually cooler temperatures. This can lead to disease or pests.
Finally, be careful when moving Rainbow tree from a shady location to a sunny one, such as moving plants to spend the summer outside. Rainbow tree can easily get sunburned if they are moved suddenly from a location with little-to-no direct sun to a spot that gets a lot of bright light. Make this kind of move gradually, starting with just 1 to 2 hours in the new location per day and gradually increasing the time. This method allows the plant to adjust to the increased light levels without getting scorched.
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How much light does Rainbow tree need for photosynthesis?
Even the smallest amount of sunlight triggers the process of photosynthesis in plants. However, the amount of energy produced through that process needs to be enough to support the plant’s current survival and continued growth. Without plenty of sunlight, the plant will essentially starve because it doesn’t have what it needs to create energy.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning is seldom needed for rainbow tree . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune rainbow tree to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Rainbow tree?
It is not always necessary to prune Rainbow tree, but there are several reasons people may choose to do so depending on their individual preferences. The most common reason is to encourage healthy growth and remove diseased or dying portions of the plant. But there are also aesthetic reasons, such as to make the Rainbow tree look more symmetrical and tidy. Pinching the stem tips promotes branching, which can make the plant bushier and prevent you having to prune off longer stems in the future. Pruning dense parts of the plant allows for better air circulation, which helps prevent disease and also creates a more pleasing appearance. A mature Rainbow tree will produce suckers that allow the plant to spread. If you prefer to confine it to one area, you will need to prune these off before they become established. On the other hand, if you are happy to let it spread, these can be left on the plant.
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When is the best time to prune my Rainbow tree?
Pruning any unhealthy growth is best performed in the early spring, allowing the plant to devote its energy to putting out the most new growth over the summer months. You can also remove branches that are growing diagonally or rubbing against other branches at this time to improve the plant’s appearance and keep it from getting damaged. Tips For Pruning Unless the plant is severely diseased or damaged, it’s recommended that you not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. While Rainbow tree is resilient, over-pruning causes unnecessary stress. That said, Rainbow tree sometimes may die back after being eaten or due to other damage such as that caused by severe winter weather. In this case, the deep root system can save the day and Rainbow tree will often be able to regrow the following spring. In this case, you are unlikely to need to prune this year except to remove dead leaves or branches. Remember to remove branches from different portions of the plant equally, including those toward the center of the plant that may be more difficult to reach. This helps keep its leaves to be equally distributed, and improves the overall appearance of your Rainbow tree
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How can I prune my Rainbow tree?
Rainbow tree has a more pleasing and well-maintained appearance when it is pruned occasionally. Removing dead leaves and branches keeps it looking healthy and vibrant. Pruning off crooked or slanted branches provides a symmetrical shape and makes Rainbow tree look neat and tidy. Hand pruners are generally sufficient for pruning Rainbow tree if you are pruning it annually, since branches won’t get thick enough to require heavy-duty cutting tools. However, if you are pruning more mature branches, you may want to use loppers or a saw. Start by removing any dead or damaged branches. You can either prune these back to the point where the branch is still healthy, or you can cut it all the way at the base of the plant. After removing these, decide if there are other branches that should be removed to promote new growth. Generally these should be the oldest and thickest branches, and you should aim to cut about one-fourth to one-third of the branches from a mature and healthy Rainbow tree. Sterilize your cutting tool before pruning to avoid introducing disease, and ensure your own safety with the appropriate gloves and eye protection. Then prune each of the branches you’ve chosen to remove, making a clean cut at a 45-degree angle without crushing or twisting the branch.
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What should I do after pruning my Rainbow tree?
Avoid getting the newly-cut branches wet after pruning, since that can make it more likely for your Rainbow tree to get an infection. Once the wound has dried and callused, it is much less vulnerable. Remove any leaves and branches from the area after pruning. It is also a good idea to water, mulch, and fertilize your Rainbow tree at this time to support its quick recovery.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Rainbow tree, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Rainbow tree is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Rainbow tree?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Rainbow tree require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Rainbow tree doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Rainbow tree need different temperatures for different seasons?
Rainbow tree does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Rainbow tree healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Rainbow tree?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Rainbow tree is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Rainbow tree has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.

Propagation

Rainbow tree provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Rainbow tree grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Rainbow tree has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Rainbow tree. For a simpler procedure, softwood cuttings is a good choice. The best seasons in which to propagate the Rainbow tree by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Rainbow tree should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Rainbow tree are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Rainbow tree in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Rainbow tree a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Rainbow tree, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Rainbow tree to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Rainbow tree regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Rainbow tree on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted. Air layering is a common way to propagate shrubs or trees. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2:Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Should be repotted every 2-3 years.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rainbow tree based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
While the bitter taste usually keeps dogs from eating too many of the leaves, rainbow tree (Dracaena angustifolia) poses a moderate to severe hazard if consumed. All parts of the plant are toxic, but leaves are the part most often eaten. Ingestion can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. If severe versions of these symptoms present themselves, veterinary attention should be sought. Owners should be watchful because this is a very common houseplant, and may also be encountered in malls and other public spaces.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
Due to their saponin content, plants of the rainbow tree family are moderately toxic to cats. Depending on the species, only the foliage may be toxic, or the entire plant can be poisonous. The most common symptoms of poisoning are diarrhea, vomiting, drooling, dilated pupils, loss of appetite, weakness, and increased heartbeat. The more severe symptoms can necessitate a trip to the vet.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Rainbow Tree

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
1.5 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 m

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).
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Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

more more
It may be that the air humidity is too low. Rainbow tree are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

more more
It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, rainbow tree require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

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If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Rainbow tree are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

more more
The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

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Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full sun
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Ideal Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
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Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
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2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3
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Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Rainbow Tree
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Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
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Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
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Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Rainbow Tree
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Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
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Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
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Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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New Plant Care
Rainbow tree
Rainbow tree
Rainbow tree

How to Care for Rainbow Tree

The rainbow tree (Dracaena angustifolia) is native to Asia and is a member of the asparagus family that grows in the understories of tropical forests. Ornamentally, it can function both as an indoor and outdoor shrub. Substances from the rainbow tree can be used to create green dye.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Compared with other indoor plants, rainbow tree requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that rainbow tree is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.
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Water

Potted Rainbow tree
The Rainbow tree plant is a relatively tough species that is pretty tolerant to drought. This is why you need to water this only about every 1-2 weeks when you feel the soil is bone dry, especially if it is planted in a pot. Water generously until you see that the water begins to trickle down the pot's drainage holes. Make sure to remove the water from the saucer after an hour, and don't let it stand on the pot.Whenever you water, make sure the soil is completely moist. Use bottled distilled water whenever possible since these are sensitive to fluoride. When you notice that the tips begin to turn yellow, this is where you might want to do the light misting several times a week.Use a watering can or a sprinkler with purified or distilled water. Make sure to evenly water the entire surface of the soil so the stems won't rot. Use distilled water from time to time to avoid the death of the plant, leaf burn, or stunted growth instead of tap water.
These Rainbow tree plants love high humidity and thrive in it. However, winter is when the humidity is low, and the indoor ones are more susceptible to wilting. Lightly mist the leaves with sprays so you can maintain the healthy growth of the plant in the spring and summer.
A high-quality humidifier might also help during winter. Also, use cold water on the plants during winter as this can cause permanent damage and root shock. Allow the water to warm at room temperature before you put it on the plants. Using heating appliances can dehydrate indoor air, so you might want to add more mist.
Ground Rainbow tree
When they are planted in your garden, you need to consider the rainfall the plant is receiving. The roots don't like to sit in the water, so make sure to have proper irrigation as part of the landscape. Water 1 time every 2 weeks, especially if you live in a tropical area with plenty of rain and monsoons. Check every 1-2 weeks to make sure the soil has 1 inch moisted by rainfall to allow it to grow well. Water them every one week during the summer when it’s very hot outside. During the growing season and in spring, use the same amount of water as well. They need a lot of water when they are growing so you might want to give them a drink regularly. If it’s winter or fall, know that you should only water every 2 to 4 weeks,this is when you notice that the soil is completely dried out. There’s rainwater, seasonal changes, and moisture around the environment to consider so never overwater.
Some use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment in the water, but this is not recommended for regular use. The hydrogen peroxide will stimulate rainwater but only do this occasionally. A filtration system might also be valuable for removing nitrates, salt, and lead that might be contained in the water.
Underwater and overwater
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant. These species are very sensitive to boron and fluoride that are usually found in tap water, and you might be able to see that they have too much of the minerals when the leaves begin to droop.
When the Rainbow tree are underwatered, the stems also show wrinkles. Due to lack of water, the leaves become wilted and drooping, appearing lifeless at the very beginning. The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out if the water shortage is severe. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves. Check the plant's environment and make sure it is in a well-ventilated location so that the soil dries faster to prevent it from rotting again later.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Rainbow tree has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.
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Fertilizer

Rainbow tree typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Rainbow tree is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Rainbow tree, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Rainbow tree the right way.
The primary reason why Rainbow tree needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Rainbow tree must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Rainbow tree will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Rainbow tree will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Rainbow tree will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Rainbow tree is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Rainbow tree will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Rainbow tree has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Rainbow tree while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Rainbow tree is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Rainbow tree lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Rainbow tree.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Rainbow tree should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Rainbow tree are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Rainbow tree water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Rainbow tree. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Rainbow tree will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Rainbow tree will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Rainbow tree require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is seldom needed for rainbow tree . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune rainbow tree to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Rainbow tree, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Rainbow tree is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Rainbow tree has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.
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Propagation

Rainbow tree provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Rainbow tree grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Rainbow tree has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Rainbow tree. For a simpler procedure, softwood cuttings is a good choice. The best seasons in which to propagate the Rainbow tree by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Rainbow tree should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Rainbow tree are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Rainbow tree in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Rainbow tree a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Rainbow tree, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Rainbow tree to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Rainbow tree regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Rainbow tree on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted. Air layering is a common way to propagate shrubs or trees. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2:Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Should be repotted every 2-3 years.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rainbow tree based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
While the bitter taste usually keeps dogs from eating too many of the leaves, rainbow tree (Dracaena angustifolia) poses a moderate to severe hazard if consumed. All parts of the plant are toxic, but leaves are the part most often eaten. Ingestion can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. If severe versions of these symptoms present themselves, veterinary attention should be sought. Owners should be watchful because this is a very common houseplant, and may also be encountered in malls and other public spaces.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Rainbow Tree

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
1.5 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 m

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

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It may be that the air humidity is too low. Rainbow tree are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

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It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, rainbow tree require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

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If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Rainbow tree are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

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The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Suitable Light
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Partial sun, Full sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
check
10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
more
2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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