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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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Toxicity
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More Info
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FAQ

How to Care for Mass Cane

Mass Cane is a large Dracaena cultivar that is quite similar to the 'Lemon Lime' cultivar of the same plant. The main difference? The mass Cane's leaves are striped, but it features its lime or evergreen stripes on the edges of its leaves and has its yellower stripe in the middle ('Lemon Lime' looks similar, but its colors are reversed). Being a hardy plant that tolerates indoor conditions very well, this cultivar is popularly grown in houses and offices.
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Mass Cane
Mass Cane
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Compared with other indoor plants, mass Cane requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that mass Cane is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method of watering my Mass Cane?
Misting can be a good way to keep the leaves hydrated but not too soggy. Always make sure that there's good drainage to prevent root rot. The plant can be sensitive to fluoride, which is often common in the public water supply, and this species does not tolerate hard water, especially if it's in its growing stages.
Use a watering can or a sprinkler with purified or distilled water. Make sure to evenly water the entire surface of the soil so the stems won't rot. Use distilled water from time to time to avoid the death of the plant, leaf burn, or stunted growth instead of tap water. Another option is to utilize rainwater whenever it's available. Keep the soil moist every time but prevent it from being too soggy if the Mass Cane is planted in a pot.
If it's outside planted in your garden, you need to have proper drainage and allow the soil to dry completely before you turn on the sprinkler or the garden hose, as this can lead to root rot and yellowing leaves.
Some use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment in the water, but this is not recommended for regular use. The hydrogen peroxide will stimulate rainwater but only do this occasionally. A filtration system might also be valuable for removing nitrates, salt, and lead that might be contained in the water.
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What should I do if I water Mass Cane too much/too little?
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant. These species are very sensitive to boron and fluoride that are usually found in tap water, and you might be able to see that they have too much of the minerals when the leaves begin to droop.
When the Mass Cane is underwatered, the stems also show wrinkles.
The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves.
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How often should I water my Mass Cane?
The Mass Cane is a relatively tough species that is pretty tolerant to drought. This is why you need to water this only about every 1-2 weeks when you feel the soil is bone dry, especially if it is planted in a pot. Water generously until you see that the water begins to trickle down the pot's drainage holes. Make sure to remove the water from the saucer after an hour, and don't let it stand on the pot.
When they are planted in your garden, you need to consider the rainfall the plant is receiving. The roots don't like to sit in the water, so make sure to have proper irrigation as part of the landscape. Water 1 time every 2 weeks, especially if you live in a tropical area with plenty of rain and monsoons.
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How much water does my Mass Cane need?
As a general rule of thumb, you should water Mass Cane when you notice that about 2 inch of the top soil is already dry, especially when you grow it outdoors. When planted in the garden, you need to make sure that the Mass Cane is getting its watering needs at least once every two weeks. There’s rainwater, seasonal changes, and moisture around the environment to consider so never overwater.
This can also apply when the pot is approximately 2 inches dry when it is grown indoors. If they are inside the house or grown in the nursery, try watering more frequently at least once a week since they might not be able to get the rainwater or extra moisture that they need indoors. As long as you notice that the plant leaves are sagging, then don’t hesitate to give them a drink.
The roots should be kept moist but not soggy. The best way to water them is to soak the pot and allow the water to drain. Make sure to water only when the soil is partially dry, and don't give them a specific schedule. They are not very thirsty plants, so wait a couple of days before giving them a drink. Well-draining soils can also help them grow and always put them in place with high humidity.
Water them every 1 to 2 weeks during the summer when it’s very hot outside. During the growing season and in spring, use the same amount of water as well. They need a lot of water when they are growing so you might want to give them a drink regularly.
If it’s winter or fall, know that you should only water every 2 to 4 weeks. This is when you notice that the soil is completely dried out.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Mass Cane adequately?
Most of the time, schedules of bi-weekly or weekly watering should be more than enough for the Mass Cane. Wait until the soil is 2 to 4 inches dry, especially if you have adult plants, to avoid excess watering. Pour generously until you see that the water comes out of the drainage holes. No standing water should be allowed, and remove the excess from the saucers. Root rot can happen if there's too much water, so it's always better to give too little than too much for this species.
The soak and dry method is more than enough for the plants whether they are indoors or outdoors. The soil around the plant should be completely soaked and make sure to record on an app or in your calendar each time you water. Allow the soil to dry to prevent root rot and help them develop a healthier root system. Water with a sprinkle or a can deep enough to reach the roots to prevent the plant from wilting.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Mass Cane according to different seasons or climates?
The soil bed or the pots should be moist during the spring or fall. However, prevent them from getting soggy. Reduce watering during winter or towards the end of the fall. Remember that soil that's too dry or too wet might result in plant issues.
Allow the Mass Cane to dry out before watering, especially in the winter. When there's too much dryness in the soil, use distilled water and saturate them thoroughly. Avoid cold water as much as possible. Occasional misting during the summer or the winter, as well as fertilizer in the spring, can help.
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Should I change the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Mass Cane?
Water at least twice a week during its growing season, and you'll find that they can grow quicker. When they are in their early stages, the Mass Cane is very sensitive to the minerals in tap water, so it's best to expose them to rainwater or filtered water.
While they are young, exposure to unnecessary chemicals can result in stunted growth and discoloration. A balanced fertilizer and watering whenever the soil is dry can help during the growing season.
In the growing season, the watering should be 1 to 2 times a week. When it's already established, you might want to water it once every 3 weeks. When you report a grown Mass Cane, you need to water the soil well to make it damp. You can also wipe the leaves with a wet cloth to keep the insects away and to help them have more humidity during summer.
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Should I water my Mass Cane differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Depending on the location of the plants, it's best to water them frequently when they are indoors. Just make sure that they are far away from any heating appliances. The natural humidity of the room can be enough, but the plant might prefer the high humidity outdoors during the summer, especially if it resembles that of a rainforest's habitat.
Water the plants once every two weeks and lightly mist them at least thrice every seven days to keep them healthy if they are planted in a pot. One way of checking it is by removing the pot and seeing if the roots are already dry. This is possible with plastic pots, but you can always check with a moisture meter if you can't remove the pot.
When grown outdoors, you need to consider the plant's rainwater, especially in spring and summer. You might want to water this once every 1-2 weeks during the summer.
Avoid watering this during the late fall and winter, and only provide them a drink when you see brown spots on the leaves. They only need occasional watering when planted in your garden, and you need to transplant them indoors so they can survive the cool conditions during the winter. Some use a lot of mulch during the fall, but when growing in a cold zone, you should consider digging it and transplanting it, watering it occasionally, and waiting for the frost to pass.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Mass Cane in different seasons, climates, and during different growing periods?
The Mass Cane loves high humidity and thrive in it. However, winter is when the humidity is low, and the indoor ones are more susceptible to wilting. Lightly mist the leaves with sprays so you can maintain the healthy growth of the plant in the spring and summer. It would also help to place the plants on trays that are filled with water and pebbles to create humidity around the Mass Cane during winter but make sure to drain the saucer afterwards.
A high-quality humidifier might also help during winter. Also, use cold water on the plants during winter as this can cause permanent damage and root shock. Allow the water to warm at room temperature before you put it on the plants. Using heating appliances can dehydrate indoor air, so you might want to add more mist.
Place the pots near it and let them absorb the mist. Use bottled distilled water whenever possible since these are sensitive to fluoride. When you notice that the tips begin to turn yellow, this is where you might want to do the light misting several times a week.
Another thing is when you're using tap water from the local supply, just let it sit overnight. This will reduce chlorine and other chemicals that might be mixed into the water. Distilled water is always the best alternative.
During the summer, be careful with overwatering. The brown tips suggest that there's not enough moisture in the air, and you should add some when the Mass Cane shows an indication that it’s thirsty.
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Why is watering my Mass Cane important?
Watering the Mass Cane will help them grow beautiful foliage. This species can bring beauty all year round, and you might want to ensure that the leaves remain green regardless of the season.
Watering it according to its needs can prevent many problems often associated with too much soil moisture. You can prevent root rot, fungal diseases, and brown tips on the potted plants and those planted on the ground.
It's best to use a watering can with tepid water when you notice that the soil is dry on the ground and in the pot. Use lukewarm water and look for signs of yellow foliage. The yellowing leaves are typically a sign that this species needs water. On the other hand, the brown tips indicate that you might be overwatering, so it's best to stop and give the soil time to dry regardless of whether they were planted outdoors or indoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Mass Cane has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Mass Cane since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Mass Cane plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Mass Cane outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Mass Cane you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Mass Cane be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Mass Cane is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Mass Cane. Doing so will prompt your Mass Cane to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Mass Cane is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Mass Cane all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Mass Cane to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Mass Cane will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Mass Cane be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Mass Cane is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Mass Cane likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Mass Cane. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Mass Cane may also need
To fertilize your Mass Cane using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Mass Cane, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Mass Cane. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Mass Cane. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Mass Cane may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Mass Cane can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Mass Cane to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Mass Cane.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Mass Cane. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Mass Cane will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Mass Cane will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Mass Cane?
Regardless of which kind of Mass Cane you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Mass Cane be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Mass Cane is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Mass Cane. Doing so will prompt your Mass Cane to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Mass Cane?
The first time that you should fertilize your Mass Cane is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Mass Cane all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Mass Cane to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Mass Cane will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Mass Cane be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Mass Cane?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Mass Cane. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Mass Cane will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Mass Cane will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Mass Cane need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Mass Cane is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Mass Cane likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Mass Cane. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Mass Cane?
To fertilize your Mass Cane using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Mass Cane, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Mass Cane. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Mass Cane too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Mass Cane. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Mass Cane may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Mass Cane can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Mass Cane to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Mass Cane.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Mass Cane require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Mass Cane need to grow?
Mass Cane requires about 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive. However, it also needs some shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sun damage. Morning sunlight is ideal for Mass Cane, but it can also tolerate some afternoon sun if the temperature is not too hot. To provide the perfect balance of sunlight, try planting Mass Cane in an area that gets partial sun, such as under a tree or on the east side of a building.
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What will happen if Mass Cane doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If Mass Cane is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves may turn yellow, dry out, or even burn. You may also notice that the plant wilts or becomes stunted. To prevent sun damage, make sure to give Mass Cane some shade during the hottest parts of the day. You can use a shade cloth or plant Mass Cane near taller plants that can provide some natural shade.
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What will happen if Mass Cane gets too much sunlight?
If Mass Cane doesn't get enough sunlight, it may grow tall and lanky, with sparse foliage. The leaves may also turn yellow or pale green, indicating that the plant is not producing enough chlorophyll due to lack of sunlight. To remedy this, try moving Mass Cane to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby foliage to allow more light to reach the plant.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning is seldom needed for mass Cane . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune mass Cane to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Mass Cane?
The Mass Cane is a low-maintenance, winter-hardy, and drought-resistant evergreen perennial plant. This means it can thrive almost anywhere. This unique plant grows well indoors, as well as in many outdoor environments. To keep yours in good health, it’s recommended that you prune it only as needed to control growth and maintain shape. This popular shurb can take up quite a bit of room if left to grow freely. Given enough time, it can be pruned to grow into a small tree. Mass Cane is very resilient and learning how to prune them is easy.
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When is the best time to prune my Mass Cane?
A lot of new gardeners shy away from pruning the Mass Cane because they’re afraid to cut too much. Luckily, Mass Cane is generally considered to be among the easier and more forgiving plants to prune since regrowth appears quite quickly. Although these perennials are relatively fast-growing, you only need to prune when you spot unsightly overgrowth or damaged leaves. In other words, if your Mass Cane starts to look uneven or damaged, it may be a good time to prune. If you want to control the size of Mass Cane, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Mass Cane is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Mass Cane.
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What should I do after pruning my Mass Cane?
When pruning your Mass Cane, always use freshly cleaned shears to prevent the possibility of cross-contamination from other plants. The Mass Cane has a high tolerance for drought and cold weather, and can even survive irregular watering schedules for short periods. When grown indoors, it prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 °F and should be kept away from air conditioning drafts to prevent discoloration, leaf fall, and other damage.
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How should I prune my Mass Cane during different seasons or stages of growth?
The good news is that these plants have a medium growth rate which means they cycle through growth stages fairly quickly. Once your plant matures, you can follow normal pruning methods. Mass Cane is mainly used for leaf viewing, flowers have no ornamental value and will consume nutrients, you can prune the flowers when the plant is in bloom and concentrate the nutrients for the growth of the leaves. If you want to control the size of Mass Cane, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Mass Cane is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Mass Cane.
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What tools, techniques and tricks should I use when pruning my Mass Cane?
Before getting started, it’s best to have a plan. Try to visualize the basic shape and style of how you want your plant to look. Having a goal in mind will help you choose what pruning method and tools to use. Once you have an idea of how you want it to look, it’s time to get ready to prune. Tools Sharp scissors or a pair of hand pruners work great when pruning your Mass Cane. However, if you keep your Mass Cane outdoors or allow it to grow freely, you may need a tree pruner to reach higher leaves. How to prune When learning how to prune your Mass Cane, factors like growth stage, climate, and the current season will give you clues about your plant's pruning needs. Additionally, how you want your plant to look is another thing to consider. If you want to control the size of Mass Cane, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. For example, if you want your plant to be short and round, cutting from the top and pruning any leggy parts will be your best bet. If you want a tall, slender appearance, cut from the bottom and sides to limit the spread of growth to encourage vertical growth. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. To simplify the process, here are a few tips to remember:
  1. Leave the main stalk in place and trim around it.
  2. Trim off any dead or unhealthy-looking branches and remove or cut any “suckers”
  3. Use shears, scissors, or your fingers to cut or pinch just below the bud, branch, or stem.
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What are common problems when pruning my Mass Cane and how can I fix them?
One major concern when it comes to pruning the Mass Cane is the possibility of mites, disease, and infection from the laceration left behind after pruning. This can be lessened by pruning at an angle and monitoring the site until healed. Additionally, taking special care to not overwater to prevent the soil from becoming too damp can minimize the risk of spider mites and aphids.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Mass Cane, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Mass Cane is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Mass Cane has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.

Propagation

Mass Cane provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Mass Cane grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Mass Cane has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Mass Cane. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Mass Cane by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Mass Cane should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Mass Cane are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Mass Cane in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Mass Cane a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Mass Cane, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Mass Cane to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Mass Cane regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Mass Cane on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Before potting, it is necessary to sterilize and kill insects. Change pots and soil every spring. Indoor potted plants require frequent ventilation and sufficient sun exposure.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
seasonal-tip
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Water
Every 2 weeks
Mass Cane need the soil to be moist most of the time, but can tolerate some drought. It’s worth noting that one of the results of overwatering is generally a dying Mass Cane. Follow plant's cues to determine when to hydrate. Avoid over-watering to ensure healthy growth.
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Lighting
Partial sun
Mass Cane is native to environments like forest understories or rocky areas, where it experiences natural shade. Its preferred sunlight condition is partial sun, but it can also tolerate full shade, making it a versatile perennial herbaceous plant.
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care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Mass Cane based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
While the bitter taste usually keeps dogs from eating too many of the leaves, mass Cane (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') poses a moderate to severe hazard if consumed. All parts of the plant are toxic, but leaves are the part most often eaten. Ingestion can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. If severe versions of these symptoms present themselves, veterinary attention should be sought. Owners should be watchful because this is a very common houseplant, and may also be encountered in malls and other public spaces.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Mass Cane

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Cream
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Variegated
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 m

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

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It may be that the air humidity is too low. Mass Cane are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

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It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, mass Cane require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

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If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Mass Cane are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

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The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
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About
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FAQ
Mass Cane
Mass Cane

How to Care for Mass Cane

Mass Cane is a large Dracaena cultivar that is quite similar to the 'Lemon Lime' cultivar of the same plant. The main difference? The mass Cane's leaves are striped, but it features its lime or evergreen stripes on the edges of its leaves and has its yellower stripe in the middle ('Lemon Lime' looks similar, but its colors are reversed). Being a hardy plant that tolerates indoor conditions very well, this cultivar is popularly grown in houses and offices.
Water
Every 2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Compared with other indoor plants, mass Cane requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that mass Cane is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Mass Cane has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.
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Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Mass Cane since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Mass Cane plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Mass Cane outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Mass Cane you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Mass Cane be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Mass Cane is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Mass Cane. Doing so will prompt your Mass Cane to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Mass Cane is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Mass Cane all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Mass Cane to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Mass Cane will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Mass Cane be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Mass Cane is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Mass Cane likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Mass Cane. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Mass Cane may also need
To fertilize your Mass Cane using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Mass Cane, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Mass Cane. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Mass Cane. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Mass Cane may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Mass Cane can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Mass Cane to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Mass Cane.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Mass Cane. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Mass Cane will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Mass Cane will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Mass Cane require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is seldom needed for mass Cane . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune mass Cane to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Mass Cane, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Mass Cane is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Mass Cane has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.
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Propagation

Mass Cane provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Mass Cane grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Mass Cane has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Mass Cane. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Mass Cane by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Mass Cane should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Mass Cane are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Mass Cane in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Mass Cane a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Mass Cane, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Mass Cane to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Mass Cane regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Mass Cane on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Before potting, it is necessary to sterilize and kill insects. Change pots and soil every spring. Indoor potted plants require frequent ventilation and sufficient sun exposure.
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Mass Cane based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
While the bitter taste usually keeps dogs from eating too many of the leaves, mass Cane (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') poses a moderate to severe hazard if consumed. All parts of the plant are toxic, but leaves are the part most often eaten. Ingestion can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. If severe versions of these symptoms present themselves, veterinary attention should be sought. Owners should be watchful because this is a very common houseplant, and may also be encountered in malls and other public spaces.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
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Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

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The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Mass Cane

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Cream
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Variegated
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 m

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

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It may be that the air humidity is too low. Mass Cane are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

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It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, mass Cane require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

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If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Mass Cane are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

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The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
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Water
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
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Essentials
Mass Cane need the soil to be moist most of the time, but can tolerate some drought. It’s worth noting that one of the results of overwatering is generally a dying Mass Cane. Follow plant's cues to determine when to hydrate. Avoid over-watering to ensure healthy growth.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth.
Requirements
Every 2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
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For Mass Cane, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Mass Cane is prone to developing disease symptoms when overwatered, as it possesses some drought tolerance. It prefers a drier environment, and symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Mass Cane is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it can suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Mass Cane is native to environments like forest understories or rocky areas, where it experiences natural shade. Its preferred sunlight condition is partial sun, but it can also tolerate full shade, making it a versatile perennial herbaceous plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Mass Cane is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Mass Cane may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Mass Cane enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Mass Cane thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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