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How to Care for Gold Dust Dracaena

Gold dust dracaena is treasured for its exotic look with variegated foliage. That is why outside its jungle home, you can encounter it potted in homes, offices, and stores. Its common name, 'Gold-dust,' comes from the yellow dots on the leaves that turn white with age. When translated from Latin, its scientific name, Dracaena surculosa, means 'Dragon shooting' (or 'shooting dragon').
Water
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Every 2 weeks
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Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Gold dust dracaena?

Compared with other indoor plants, gold dust dracaena requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that gold dust dracaena is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method of watering my Gold dust dracaena?
Misting can be a good way to keep the leaves hydrated but not too soggy. Always make sure that there's good drainage to prevent root rot. The plant can be sensitive to fluoride, which is often common in the public water supply, and this species does not tolerate hard water, especially if it's in its growing stages.
Use a watering can or a sprinkler with purified or distilled water. Make sure to evenly water the entire surface of the soil so the stems won't rot. Use distilled water from time to time to avoid the death of the plant, leaf burn, or stunted growth instead of tap water. Another option is to utilize rainwater whenever it's available. Keep the soil moist every time but prevent it from being too soggy if the Gold dust dracaena is planted in a pot.
If it's outside planted in your garden, you need to have proper drainage and allow the soil to dry completely before you turn on the sprinkler or the garden hose, as this can lead to root rot and yellowing leaves.
Some use hydrogen peroxide as a treatment in the water, but this is not recommended for regular use. The hydrogen peroxide will stimulate rainwater but only do this occasionally. A filtration system might also be valuable for removing nitrates, salt, and lead that might be contained in the water.
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What should I do if I water Gold dust dracaena too much/too little?
Some signs that the plants are not getting enough water are the brown tips on the plant. These species are very sensitive to boron and fluoride that are usually found in tap water, and you might be able to see that they have too much of the minerals when the leaves begin to droop.
When the Gold dust dracaena is underwatered, the stems also show wrinkles.
The leaves can become brown, crispy, and start to dry out. When this happens, water as soon as possible.
Another thing about overwatering is that if this happens, then root rot can begin to set in. You need to remove all the damaged roots from the soil, especially if they appear mushy, fragile, and black. To help with these issues, it's important to cut off a larger part of the root.
Overwatering can also leave the leaves looking brown and ready to fall off. This can happen very early, so you should drain the excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering to help the plant recover.
Throw away the soil from the pot if there are signs of root rot. Clean everything thoroughly and make sure to put in the pebbles so it will help with proper drainage. Discard any excess water at the base of the pot if you notice tan rings or reddish-brown spots on the leaves.
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How often should I water my Gold dust dracaena?
The Gold dust dracaena is a relatively tough species that is pretty tolerant to drought. This is why you need to water this only about every 1-2 weeks when you feel the soil is bone dry, especially if it is planted in a pot. Water generously until you see that the water begins to trickle down the pot's drainage holes. Make sure to remove the water from the saucer after an hour, and don't let it stand on the pot.
When they are planted in your garden, you need to consider the rainfall the plant is receiving. The roots don't like to sit in the water, so make sure to have proper irrigation as part of the landscape. Water 1 time every 2 weeks, especially if you live in a tropical area with plenty of rain and monsoons.
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How much water does my Gold dust dracaena need?
As a general rule of thumb, you should water Gold dust dracaena when you notice that about 2 inch of the top soil is already dry, especially when you grow it outdoors. When planted in the garden, you need to make sure that the Gold dust dracaena is getting its watering needs at least once every two weeks. There’s rainwater, seasonal changes, and moisture around the environment to consider so never overwater.
This can also apply when the pot is approximately 2 inches dry when it is grown indoors. If they are inside the house or grown in the nursery, try watering more frequently at least once a week since they might not be able to get the rainwater or extra moisture that they need indoors. As long as you notice that the plant leaves are sagging, then don’t hesitate to give them a drink.
The roots should be kept moist but not soggy. The best way to water them is to soak the pot and allow the water to drain. Make sure to water only when the soil is partially dry, and don't give them a specific schedule. They are not very thirsty plants, so wait a couple of days before giving them a drink. Well-draining soils can also help them grow and always put them in place with high humidity.
Water them every 1 to 2 weeks during the summer when it’s very hot outside. During the growing season and in spring, use the same amount of water as well. They need a lot of water when they are growing so you might want to give them a drink regularly.
If it’s winter or fall, know that you should only water every 2 to 4 weeks. This is when you notice that the soil is completely dried out.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Gold dust dracaena adequately?
Most of the time, schedules of bi-weekly or weekly watering should be more than enough for the Gold dust dracaena. Wait until the soil is 2 to 4 inches dry, especially if you have adult plants, to avoid excess watering. Pour generously until you see that the water comes out of the drainage holes. No standing water should be allowed, and remove the excess from the saucers. Root rot can happen if there's too much water, so it's always better to give too little than too much for this species.
The soak and dry method is more than enough for the plants whether they are indoors or outdoors. The soil around the plant should be completely soaked and make sure to record on an app or in your calendar each time you water. Allow the soil to dry to prevent root rot and help them develop a healthier root system. Water with a sprinkle or a can deep enough to reach the roots to prevent the plant from wilting.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Gold dust dracaena according to different seasons or climates?
The soil bed or the pots should be moist during the spring or fall. However, prevent them from getting soggy. Reduce watering during winter or towards the end of the fall. Remember that soil that's too dry or too wet might result in plant issues.
Allow the Gold dust dracaena to dry out before watering, especially in the winter. When there's too much dryness in the soil, use distilled water and saturate them thoroughly. Avoid cold water as much as possible. Occasional misting during the summer or the winter, as well as fertilizer in the spring, can help.
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Should I change the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Gold dust dracaena?
Water at least twice a week during its growing season, and you'll find that they can grow quicker. When they are in their early stages, the Gold dust dracaena is very sensitive to the minerals in tap water, so it's best to expose them to rainwater or filtered water.
While they are young, exposure to unnecessary chemicals can result in stunted growth and discoloration. A balanced fertilizer and watering whenever the soil is dry can help during the growing season.
In the growing season, the watering should be 1 to 2 times a week. When it's already established, you might want to water it once every 3 weeks. When you report a grown Gold dust dracaena, you need to water the soil well to make it damp. You can also wipe the leaves with a wet cloth to keep the insects away and to help them have more humidity during summer.
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Should I water my Gold dust dracaena differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Depending on the location of the plants, it's best to water them frequently when they are indoors. Just make sure that they are far away from any heating appliances. The natural humidity of the room can be enough, but the plant might prefer the high humidity outdoors during the summer, especially if it resembles that of a rainforest's habitat.
Water the plants once every two weeks and lightly mist them at least thrice every seven days to keep them healthy if they are planted in a pot. One way of checking it is by removing the pot and seeing if the roots are already dry. This is possible with plastic pots, but you can always check with a moisture meter if you can't remove the pot.
When grown outdoors, you need to consider the plant's rainwater, especially in spring and summer. You might want to water this once every 1-2 weeks during the summer.
Avoid watering this during the late fall and winter, and only provide them a drink when you see brown spots on the leaves. They only need occasional watering when planted in your garden, and you need to transplant them indoors so they can survive the cool conditions during the winter. Some use a lot of mulch during the fall, but when growing in a cold zone, you should consider digging it and transplanting it, watering it occasionally, and waiting for the frost to pass.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Gold dust dracaena in different seasons, climates, and during different growing periods?
The Gold dust dracaena loves high humidity and thrive in it. However, winter is when the humidity is low, and the indoor ones are more susceptible to wilting. Lightly mist the leaves with sprays so you can maintain the healthy growth of the plant in the spring and summer. It would also help to place the plants on trays that are filled with water and pebbles to create humidity around the Gold dust dracaena during winter but make sure to drain the saucer afterwards.
A high-quality humidifier might also help during winter. Also, use cold water on the plants during winter as this can cause permanent damage and root shock. Allow the water to warm at room temperature before you put it on the plants. Using heating appliances can dehydrate indoor air, so you might want to add more mist.
Place the pots near it and let them absorb the mist. Use bottled distilled water whenever possible since these are sensitive to fluoride. When you notice that the tips begin to turn yellow, this is where you might want to do the light misting several times a week.
Another thing is when you're using tap water from the local supply, just let it sit overnight. This will reduce chlorine and other chemicals that might be mixed into the water. Distilled water is always the best alternative.
During the summer, be careful with overwatering. The brown tips suggest that there's not enough moisture in the air, and you should add some when the Gold dust dracaena shows an indication that it’s thirsty.
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Why is watering my Gold dust dracaena important?
Watering the Gold dust dracaena will help them grow beautiful foliage. This species can bring beauty all year round, and you might want to ensure that the leaves remain green regardless of the season.
Watering it according to its needs can prevent many problems often associated with too much soil moisture. You can prevent root rot, fungal diseases, and brown tips on the potted plants and those planted on the ground.
It's best to use a watering can with tepid water when you notice that the soil is dry on the ground and in the pot. Use lukewarm water and look for signs of yellow foliage. The yellowing leaves are typically a sign that this species needs water. On the other hand, the brown tips indicate that you might be overwatering, so it's best to stop and give the soil time to dry regardless of whether they were planted outdoors or indoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Gold dust dracaena?

Gold dust dracaena has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.

Fertilizer

Gold dust dracaena typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Gold dust dracaena is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Gold dust dracaena, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Gold dust dracaena the right way.
The primary reason why Gold dust dracaena needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Gold dust dracaena must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Gold dust dracaena will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Gold dust dracaena will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Gold dust dracaena will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Gold dust dracaena is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Gold dust dracaena will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Gold dust dracaena has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Gold dust dracaena while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Gold dust dracaena is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Gold dust dracaena lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Gold dust dracaena.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Gold dust dracaena should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Gold dust dracaena are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Gold dust dracaena water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Gold dust dracaena. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Gold dust dracaena will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Gold dust dracaena will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Gold dust dracaena?
The primary reason why Gold dust dracaena needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Gold dust dracaena must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures.
If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Gold dust dracaena will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Gold dust dracaena will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Gold dust dracaena?
Gold dust dracaena will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Gold dust dracaena is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes.
During the growing season, your Gold dust dracaena will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Gold dust dracaena?
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Gold dust dracaena. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Gold dust dracaena will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Gold dust dracaena will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Gold dust dracaena need?
The fertilizer for a Gold dust dracaena has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Gold dust dracaena while you supply water.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Gold dust dracaena?
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Gold dust dracaena is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots.
Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Gold dust dracaena lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Gold dust dracaena.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Gold dust dracaena too much?
The signs of improper fertilization for a Gold dust dracaena should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Gold dust dracaena are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Gold dust dracaena water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Gold dust dracaena?

Gold dust dracaena require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Gold dust dracaena need per day?
Gold dust dracaena needs a lot of indirect, filtered, or dappled light when grown indoors, so they should be kept in a sunny location all day. Of course, the number of daylight hours that occur naturally can vary depending on the season, but a good rule of thumb is a minimum of 6 hours, including up to 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Even many hours of indirect sun will not hurt Gold dust dracaena; it is only direct sun that you need to be careful about.
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What type of sunlight does Gold dust dracaena need?
Gold dust dracaena in the wild get a lot of sunlight throughout the whole day. The sunlight is dappled and mostly indirect since it is filtered through the leafy canopy of tall trees growing above. When grown indoors, Gold dust dracaena should be provided with bright indirect light in a sunny windowsill or via grow lights.
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Does Gold dust dracaena need to avoid sun exposure?
Gold dust dracaena does not need to avoid sun exposure completely, but the type of sunlight should be appropriate. They should not be exposed to more than 6 hours of direct sun each day. Direct sun means that the sunlight is hitting the plant directly. Indirect light could be reflected off other objects near the plant, or could be direct sun that is filtered by something such as a sheer curtain. So Gold dust dracaena should be protected from excessive direct sun.
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How should I protect Gold dust dracaena from sun and heat damage?
Sunlight can hurt Gold dust dracaena that are not adapted to growing in direct sun. There are several ways to protect Gold dust dracaena from bright sunlight. First, choose a location that gets indirect light for most of the day. If the location is too bright, move the plant farther into the room away from the window. Or, you can cover the window with a light curtain or blinds. Any of these methods protect your Gold dust dracaena from both sun scorching and excessive heat from the sun.
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What happens to Gold dust dracaena if it gets too much sunlight?
Too much direct sunlight will scorch the plant’s leaves, especially the upper leaves which are hit with the majority of the sun’s rays. Scorched spots on the leaves look brown and dry. Entire leaves may also wilt and turn brown. Being grown in full sun can cause the soil to dry out too quickly. In extreme cases, too much sun could kill the plant.
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What happens to Gold dust dracaena if it receives insufficient sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Gold dust dracaena become etiolated (tall and stretched out) and lose color in their leaves. Over time, the plant is not able to generate enough energy through photosynthesis to support its continued survival, and will die if it is kept in a dark location.
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Does Gold dust dracaena need special attention to sunlight during different growth stages?
Gold dust dracaena should get bright indirect light regardless of their growth stage. If anything, consistency in lighting conditions will get you the best results. Once you’ve found a location where your plants are happy, it is best not to move them. However, you should monitor the location and move plants if sunlight gets too intense during summer or becomes too dark in winter.
The amount of light can affect other elements of plant care as well, particularly temperature and watering frequency. More sunlight and heat will cause water to evaporate from the soil faster, meaning you would need to water more often. Less sunlight also usually means less watering, and usually cooler temperatures. This can lead to disease or pests.
Finally, be careful when moving Gold dust dracaena from a shady location to a sunny one, such as moving plants to spend the summer outside. Gold dust dracaena can easily get sunburned if they are moved suddenly from a location with little-to-no direct sun to a spot that gets a lot of bright light. Make this kind of move gradually, starting with just 1 to 2 hours in the new location per day and gradually increasing the time. This method allows the plant to adjust to the increased light levels without getting scorched.
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How much light does Gold dust dracaena need for photosynthesis?
Even the smallest amount of sunlight triggers the process of photosynthesis in plants. However, the amount of energy produced through that process needs to be enough to support the plant’s current survival and continued growth. Without plenty of sunlight, the plant will essentially starve because it doesn’t have what it needs to create energy.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Gold dust dracaena?

Pruning is seldom needed for gold dust dracaena . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune gold dust dracaena to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Gold dust dracaena?
The Gold dust dracaena is a low-maintenance, winter-hardy, and drought-resistant evergreen perennial plant. This means it can thrive almost anywhere. This unique plant grows well indoors, as well as in many outdoor environments. To keep yours in good health, it’s recommended that you prune it only as needed to control growth and maintain shape. This popular shurb can take up quite a bit of room if left to grow freely. Given enough time, it can be pruned to grow into a small tree. Gold dust dracaena is very resilient and learning how to prune them is easy.
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When is the best time to prune my Gold dust dracaena?
A lot of new gardeners shy away from pruning the Gold dust dracaena because they’re afraid to cut too much. Luckily, Gold dust dracaena is generally considered to be among the easier and more forgiving plants to prune since regrowth appears quite quickly. Although these perennials are relatively fast-growing, you only need to prune when you spot unsightly overgrowth or damaged leaves. In other words, if your Gold dust dracaena starts to look uneven or damaged, it may be a good time to prune. If you want to control the size of Gold dust dracaena, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Gold dust dracaena is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Gold dust dracaena.
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What should I do after pruning my Gold dust dracaena?
When pruning your Gold dust dracaena, always use freshly cleaned shears to prevent the possibility of cross-contamination from other plants. The Gold dust dracaena has a high tolerance for drought and cold weather, and can even survive irregular watering schedules for short periods. When grown indoors, it prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 °F and should be kept away from air conditioning drafts to prevent discoloration, leaf fall, and other damage.
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How should I prune my Gold dust dracaena during different seasons or stages of growth?
The good news is that these plants have a medium growth rate which means they cycle through growth stages fairly quickly. Once your plant matures, you can follow normal pruning methods. Gold dust dracaena is mainly used for leaf viewing, flowers have no ornamental value and will consume nutrients, you can prune the flowers when the plant is in bloom and concentrate the nutrients for the growth of the leaves. If you want to control the size of Gold dust dracaena, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. When Gold dust dracaena is growing, if there are yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, prune off the yellowing leaves at the bottom and the parts of the leaves that have spots due to disease infection, which can effectively reduce the infection. If the number of leaves with spots is relatively large, the number of pruned leaves should not exceed a quarter of the total to avoid affecting the growth of Gold dust dracaena.
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What tools, techniques and tricks should I use when pruning my Gold dust dracaena?
Before getting started, it’s best to have a plan. Try to visualize the basic shape and style of how you want your plant to look. Having a goal in mind will help you choose what pruning method and tools to use. Once you have an idea of how you want it to look, it’s time to get ready to prune. Tools Sharp scissors or a pair of hand pruners work great when pruning your Gold dust dracaena. However, if you keep your Gold dust dracaena outdoors or allow it to grow freely, you may need a tree pruner to reach higher leaves. How to prune When learning how to prune your Gold dust dracaena, factors like growth stage, climate, and the current season will give you clues about your plant's pruning needs. Additionally, how you want your plant to look is another thing to consider. If you want to control the size of Gold dust dracaena, you need to do a strong pruning in winter time, and you can prune to the shape you want. For example, if you want your plant to be short and round, cutting from the top and pruning any leggy parts will be your best bet. If you want a tall, slender appearance, cut from the bottom and sides to limit the spread of growth to encourage vertical growth. If the shape is appropriate and only small-scale shaping is needed (pruning no more than 1/4 of the total size of the plant), it can be done in summer or autumn. To simplify the process, here are a few tips to remember:
  1. Leave the main stalk in place and trim around it.
  2. Trim off any dead or unhealthy-looking branches and remove or cut any “suckers”
  3. Use shears, scissors, or your fingers to cut or pinch just below the bud, branch, or stem.
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What are common problems when pruning my Gold dust dracaena and how can I fix them?
One major concern when it comes to pruning the Gold dust dracaena is the possibility of mites, disease, and infection from the laceration left behind after pruning. This can be lessened by pruning at an angle and monitoring the site until healed. Additionally, taking special care to not overwater to prevent the soil from becoming too damp can minimize the risk of spider mites and aphids.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Gold dust dracaena?

Gold dust dracaena, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Gold dust dracaena is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Gold dust dracaena?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Gold dust dracaena require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Gold dust dracaena doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Gold dust dracaena need different temperatures for different seasons?
Gold dust dracaena does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Gold dust dracaena healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Gold dust dracaena?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Gold dust dracaena is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Gold dust dracaena?

Gold dust dracaena has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Gold dust dracaena?

It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.

Propagation

Gold dust dracaena provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Gold dust dracaena grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Gold dust dracaena has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Gold dust dracaena. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Gold dust dracaena by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Gold dust dracaena should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Gold dust dracaena are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Gold dust dracaena in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Gold dust dracaena a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Gold dust dracaena, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Gold dust dracaena to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Gold dust dracaena regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Gold dust dracaena on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Gold dust dracaena?

Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Gold dust dracaena?

Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Gold dust dracaena?

The best time to transplant gold dust dracaena is during the S1-S2 phase, or the growing season. The plant will benefit most from the added nutrients and ample sunlight at this time. Choose a well-lit spot indoors or a shady space outdoors. Remember, avoid over-watering post-transplant to let the roots settle.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Gold dust dracaena?

Should be repotted every 2-3 years.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Gold Dust Dracaena Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Partial sun
Gold dust dracaena requires an environment with a moderate level of sun exposure for optimal growth, aligning with its natural habitat which is not fully sunlit. Too much solar exposure might stress the plant, causing leaf burn, while too little light might retard its growth. It can also survive in places mostly covered from sun.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
Gold dust dracaena originally hails from environments where the temperature usually ranges between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in temperatures within this range. Adjustment of temperature should be considered with changing seasons whenever necessary.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
The best time to transplant gold dust dracaena is during the S1-S2 phase, or the growing season. The plant will benefit most from the added nutrients and ample sunlight at this time. Choose a well-lit spot indoors or a shady space outdoors. Remember, avoid over-watering post-transplant to let the roots settle.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
The gold dust dracaena plant is believed to harmonize with South-facing locations, due to its vibrant foliage resembling the liveliness associated with the fire element, dominant in the South as per Feng Shui principles. The interpretation, though, can vary depending on one's personal perspective and understanding of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Gold dust dracaena based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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care_toxicity

Gold Dust Dracaena and Their Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Gold dust dracaenas are mildly to moderately toxic to dogs, depending on both the part of the plant and quantity ingested. All portions contain harmful saponins, but the berries and flowers have the highest concentrations and lead to stronger reactions. Common symptoms of gold dust dracaena poisoning include diarrhea, vomiting, dilated pupils, excessive salivation, and general weakness. Severe cases may require medical attention.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
The gold dust dracaena is a common houseplant that is mildly to moderately toxic to cats when ingested. All parts of the plant contain saponins, which may cause excessive drooling, vomiting, weakness, and dilated pupils in cats.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Gold Dust Dracaena

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
91 to 122 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
White
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
61 to 91 cm

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).

Usages

Garden Use
Gold dust dracaena is an ideal plant for garden areas with minimal light. It can be planted alone as a shrub or in a mass on a planting area border. In addition, this plant makes an excellent hedge in informal landscapes. It also grows well in outdoor container gardens on decks, patios, and porches.
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Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

more more
It may be that the air humidity is too low. Gold dust dracaena are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

more more
It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, gold dust dracaena require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

more more
If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Gold dust dracaena are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

more more
The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full sun
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
check
Ideal Temperature
10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
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2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3
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Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Gold Dust Dracaena
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Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
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Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
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Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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main-image
Gold Dust Dracaena
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Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena
Gold dust dracaena

How to Care for Gold Dust Dracaena

Gold dust dracaena is treasured for its exotic look with variegated foliage. That is why outside its jungle home, you can encounter it potted in homes, offices, and stores. Its common name, 'Gold-dust,' comes from the yellow dots on the leaves that turn white with age. When translated from Latin, its scientific name, Dracaena surculosa, means 'Dragon shooting' (or 'shooting dragon').
Water
Every 2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Pets
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Compared with other indoor plants, gold dust dracaena requires less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. A tray should be placed under the pot. It is required to water the plants slowly until the water flows out from the pot bottom, and then drain the excessive water in the tray after 30 min. Too much water and poor drainage may cause the leaves to fall. At ordinary time, appropriate water mists can be sprayed toward the leaves to increase the ambient humidity and prevent the leave edges from drying.
It should be noted that gold dust dracaena is sensitive to the fluoride in tap water. With long-term use of tap water, there may be dark spots or yellow edges on their leaves, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Gold dust dracaena has little demand for nutrients. With available conditions, they can be fertilized once every two weeks in spring and summer. It is enough to fertilize them once a month in fall and no fertilization is required in winter. General water-soluble fertilizers can be applied and each time of fertilization should be subject to the recommended dosage on the package.
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Fertilizer

Gold dust dracaena typically have ornamental leaves that can add a sense of lushness to your living spaces. With the right care, that foliage will maintain a consistent color and look healthy all year long. However, an important part of a proper care routine for a Gold dust dracaena is fertilization. If you don't know when and how to fertilize a Gold dust dracaena, there is a good chance that your plant may begin to decline or at least fail to live up to its full potential. As such, the following sections will introduce you to how to feed a Gold dust dracaena the right way.
The primary reason why Gold dust dracaena needs regular fertilization is that they have showy leaves that require a lot of energy to produce and maintain. The challenge is that your Gold dust dracaena must not only allot enough energy to keep its leaves in good shape, but it must also find enough energy to support the growth of its stems, branches, roots, and all its other vital structures. If you neglect fertilization, there are two outcomes that are likely to take place. The first is that the leaves of your Gold dust dracaena will begin to lose their natural color or texture while looking somewhat unhealthy overall, which detracts greatly from its ornamental appeal. The other outcome is that your Gold dust dracaena will begin to slow its growth overall or produce weak growth that could be prone to breakage.
Gold dust dracaena will benefit from occasionally feedings , which is why you do not need to set a standard feeding schedule upon planting one of these plants. One of the easiest ways to fertilize your Gold dust dracaena is to simply apply your fertilizer when you water this plant sometimes. During the growing season, your Gold dust dracaena will also need a decent amount of water. You could feed this plant once every two-three weeks. This feeding rate should continue during the entire time that your plant is producing new growth.
The fertilizer for a Gold dust dracaena has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 3 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your Gold dust dracaena while you supply water.
One of the easiest ways to fertilize a Gold dust dracaena is to feed it anytime that you water it. To perform this method, gather your fertilizer and a water container, such as a watering can. Then mix the fertilizer with water to dilute its strength. Then, simply pour the water with the fertilizer onto the soil and allow it to soak down to the roots. Alternatively, you could use a granular fertilizer. If you use a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle some of the fertilizer on the soil in which your Gold dust dracaena lives. Granular fertilizers are usually slow-release fertilizers which means you won't need to fertilize as often as you would with a liquid fertilizer. In either case, it is beneficial to water while you feed your Gold dust dracaena.
The signs of improper fertilization for a Gold dust dracaena should become obvious relatively quickly. Overfertilization is specifically harmful to this plant, and it can cause several visible signs. The most common signs are browning leaf margins, yellowing leaves, wilting leaves, excess fertilizer build-up in the soil, and loss of foliage.
Gold dust dracaena are also vulnerable to a complication known as fertilizer burn, in which a plant receives too many nutrients, which causes the roots to dry out and cease their main function. However, if you give your Gold dust dracaena water while you feed it, it is far less likely that fertilizer burn will occur.
Throughout most of the year, it is permissible to maintain a regular fertilization schedule for your Gold dust dracaena. During the active growing season of spring, summer, and early fall. However, during the winter, this plant should not receive fertilizer at all.
During winter, Gold dust dracaena will enter a dormant growth phase. In that phase, the plant will either put forth no new growth or very little new growth. That lack of active growth means that your Gold dust dracaena will be using less energy overall, which is why fertilization is not needed at that time.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Gold dust dracaena require a growth environment with sufficient filtered lights. Direct sunlight should be avoided, because it may burn the leaves. It is suggested to put them at a certain distance from the window. If the light is too weak, it may grow poorly. They can also survive in a partially-shady outdoor area, for example the shade of tall trees.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is seldom needed for gold dust dracaena . The old leaves under the stem will wither naturally and it only requires removing them in time; and new leaves will grow continuously. When the plants are tall, their height can be controlled by pruning. Pruning is generally done in spring with sharp gardening scissors (branch scissors) or knives to prune gold dust dracaena to the required height. The bud points should be reserved under the cut and new leaves will grow out several weeks later.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Gold dust dracaena, native to the subtropical region, likes a warm and humid environment. The temperature suitable for its growth is 16 to 26 ℃. It's less cold resistant and may be damaged below 10 ℃. Gold dust dracaena is moderately drought-resistant and can be planted outdoors in a warm, humid and shaded environment, but it's more often potted indoors. Generally, the humidity may be properly increased by a humidifier, or a tray of pebbles may be placed under the pot bottom for supplementing some water to increase humidity.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Gold dust dracaena has low requirements on soil. The pH of suitable soil is 6.0-6.5. It likes well-drained and organic-rich soil, avoiding sticky substrates. Wet soil that can lead to rot or fungal issues should be avoided as well. The soil mixed with a small amount of perlite and added with fertilizers free of boron or calcium superphosphate will help their growth. When they are potted, it is recommended to use pottery pots with many drainage holes to ensure smooth drainage. Dracaena braunii (Lucky Bamboo) is often maintained in water, but it can grow better when planted in soil actually.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
It is recommended to reproduce them by cutting or layering at the end of spring and the beginning of summer. Oblique cut the top bud of old branch, remove the withered yellow leaves, insert it in vermiculite and other moist breathable medium and it can grow into an independent seedling. In case of available conditions, a small amount of rooting powder may be applied on the cut to promote rooting. After each pruning, the 10 cm stem section containing the bud point can also be buried in a moist medium, and a new plant can be germinated by keeping the temperature and moisture.
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Propagation

Gold dust dracaena provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Gold dust dracaena grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Gold dust dracaena has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Gold dust dracaena. Softwood cuttings is an easy way to propagate this plant. The best seasons in which to propagate the Gold dust dracaena by cuttings are spring and early summer, when the plant is growing the most actively. During this time, there is plenty of light available for the cuttings to devote to new growth, and your Gold dust dracaena should have new shoots that are suitable for propagation. Your cutting should still be flexible, but should have reached a level of hardness that it will snap when bent. The tools needed to propagate Gold dust dracaena are the same as those used for other types of propagation by cutting, although you will not need a particularly strong cutting tool as the material is still quite soft.
  1. Sharp scissors or gardening knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional)
  4. Pot(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. All-purpose potting soil for planting
  6. Clear plastic bag (optional)
Step 1: Prepare one or more small pots with moistened potting mix. You can generally plant several cuttings in the same pot for propagation, as long as you leave about an inch between cuttings in each pot. Step 2: Locate healthy shoots on the parent plant and plan where to cut. The cutting should have at least a couple of leaves and one or two nodes in order for the plant to generate new growth. The cutting length should ideally be about 10cm. Use the sterilized cutting tool to take a cutting just above a leaf joint on the parent plant. Step 3: Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and then trim the bottom just below a node. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Plant the cuttings into your prepared pot one-by-one, being sure that at least one node is buried. Step 5: Keep your Gold dust dracaena in a warm, protected location with plenty of indirect sunlight. To give Gold dust dracaena a better chance of survival, you can cover them loosely with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. A rubber band or tape can be used to affix it to the pot. Doing this increases warmth and humidity, which helps the plant to establish roots more quickly. Step 6: Monitor the Gold dust dracaena, watering as needed so the soil doesn’t get dry, until it is time to transplant. Roots generally begin to form within 4 to 6 weeks, and you may want to thin out unhealthy cuttings or move some of the Gold dust dracaena to individual pots to give them more space to grow. When the Gold dust dracaena regrows new leaves, it means that it has successfully grown roots and needs to be transplanted after the new leaves have fully expanded. It is best to transplant Gold dust dracaena on an overcast day with mild temperatures to avoid stressing them as soon as they are planted.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Among the dracaena plants, Dracaena surculosa is often planted outdoors as bushes in a partially-shady outdoor area. It is better to plant it in spring and summer. Other plants are often potted indoors, and the pots will limit their heights. The pots and soil should be replaced once in two or three years. For height control, the root system should be properly trimmed and a larger pot should be used.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Potted dracaena plants seldom bloom. However, in case of adequate light, they may have white or purple inflorescences in the summer. But, at the same time, the leaves may be injured by intense light and the color of the leaves may deteriorate.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Gold dust dracaena?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best time to transplant gold dust dracaena is during the S1-S2 phase, or the growing season. The plant will benefit most from the added nutrients and ample sunlight at this time. Choose a well-lit spot indoors or a shady space outdoors. Remember, avoid over-watering post-transplant to let the roots settle.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Gold dust dracaena?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Should be repotted every 2-3 years.
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More Info on Gold Dust Dracaena Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

Because they are less cold resistant, too low temperature should be avoided in winter. When potted plants are placed indoors in winter, water can be sprayed on the leave surfaces in case of heating and low humidity.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

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1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
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2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
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3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
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5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

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1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
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2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
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3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
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4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
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5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
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6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

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1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
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2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
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3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
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4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

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Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
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2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
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3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Gold dust dracaena based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_toxicity

Gold Dust Dracaena and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Toxic to Dogs
Gold dust dracaenas are mildly to moderately toxic to dogs, depending on both the part of the plant and quantity ingested. All portions contain harmful saponins, but the berries and flowers have the highest concentrations and lead to stronger reactions. Common symptoms of gold dust dracaena poisoning include diarrhea, vomiting, dilated pupils, excessive salivation, and general weakness. Severe cases may require medical attention.
Toxic to Cats
The gold dust dracaena is a common houseplant that is mildly to moderately toxic to cats when ingested. All parts of the plant contain saponins, which may cause excessive drooling, vomiting, weakness, and dilated pupils in cats.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

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The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Gold Dust Dracaena

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
91 to 122 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
White
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
61 to 91 cm

Name story

Dracaena
Its generic name Dracaena is derived from the Greek word drakaina, meaning female dragons, which can also refers to the source of dragon’s blood (as it can shed juice like dragon’s blood).

Usages

Garden Use
Gold dust dracaena is an ideal plant for garden areas with minimal light. It can be planted alone as a shrub or in a mass on a planting area border. In addition, this plant makes an excellent hedge in informal landscapes. It also grows well in outdoor container gardens on decks, patios, and porches.
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Common Problems

Why do the leaf margins turn yellow and shrivel?

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It may be that the air humidity is too low. Gold dust dracaena are native to tropical/subtropical zone and like a warm and humid environment. At ordinary time, spraying may be added to humidify the surrounding environment of the plants.

Why do the leaves turn yellow or even fall?

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It may be that there is too much water and poor drainage. Compared with other indoor plants, gold dust dracaena require less water. Watering once a week is enough and they may be watered again until the surface soil of the pot is dry. Remember to drain the excessive water in the tray under the pot 30min after complete watering and use loose and water-permeable soils for cultivation.

Why do dark spots or yellow edges appear on the leaf surfaces?

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If white eggs appear on the leaf back, it may be infected by spider mites. Otherwise, they could be caused by the fluoride in tap water. In case of no serious infection of spider mites, the leaves can be washed with water repeatedly. Gold dust dracaena are sensitive to the fluoride in tap water, so it is recommended to use collected rainwater or pure water. Alternatively, the tap water may be stored in a container for one night, and watering can be done after the fluoride is reduced.

How to control the plant height?

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The filtered light, water and fertilizer may be reduced properly. In spring, the plants can be cut to the required height with sharp gardening scissors (loppers). Remember to reserve bud points under the cut. Properly prune the plant roots when replacing the pot or soil and use a proper pot to limit the growth.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Suitable Light
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Partial sun, Full sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
check
10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
more
2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Gold dust dracaena requires an environment with a moderate level of sun exposure for optimal growth, aligning with its natural habitat which is not fully sunlit. Too much solar exposure might stress the plant, causing leaf burn, while too little light might retard its growth. It can also survive in places mostly covered from sun.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Gold dust dracaena is a popular indoor plant that prefers partial sunlight but can handle full sunlight in cooler weather. However, when placed in corners of rooms for extended periods, it may develop symptoms of light deficiency due to insufficient light exposure.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Gold dust dracaena may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Gold dust dracaena enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Gold dust dracaena thrives with partial sun exposure and can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, they are more susceptible to sunburn, as they cannot withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Gold dust dracaena originally hails from environments where the temperature usually ranges between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in temperatures within this range. Adjustment of temperature should be considered with changing seasons whenever necessary.
Regional wintering strategies
Gold dust dracaena is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Gold dust dracaena indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Gold dust dracaena prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Gold dust dracaena should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Gold Dust Dracaena?
The best time to transplant gold dust dracaena is during the S1-S2 phase, or the growing season. The plant will benefit most from the added nutrients and ample sunlight at this time. Choose a well-lit spot indoors or a shady space outdoors. Remember, avoid over-watering post-transplant to let the roots settle.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Gold Dust Dracaena?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Gold Dust Dracaena?
The ideal time to transplant gold dust dracaena is late winter to early spring (S1-S2). During this period, the plant is in a dormant stage, thus reducing transplant shock. Moving gold dust dracaena during this time promotes healthy growth in the upcoming growing season. This step-wise approach ensures your plant thrives in its new home. Remember, every green thumb starts with understanding nature's rhythms!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Gold Dust Dracaena Plants?
Ensure you space your gold dust dracaena plants about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This gives them ample room to grow and spread out without competing for resources. Remember to gently tease out the roots before planting!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Gold Dust Dracaena Transplanting?
The gold dust dracaena thrives in well-draining soil with an acidic to slightly acidic pH. You can prepare the soil with a base fertilizer rich in organic content. Try mixing in compost or well-rotted manure for an extra nutrient boost.
Where Should You Relocate Your Gold Dust Dracaena?
When selecting a location for your gold dust dracaena, opt for a spot with bright, indirect sunlight. The plant can scorch in direct sun, so a lightly shaded area is preferable. Don't forget—good sunlight is essential for healthy growth!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Gold Dust Dracaena?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from thorns, dirt and potential irritants in the soil.
Spade or Shovel
Ideal for digging the new hole and removing the gold dust dracaena from its current location.
Garden Trowel
Helpful in making smaller adjustments to the hole.
Watering Can
To water the plant both before and after transplanting, ensuring it remains hydrated.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged or diseased parts of the gold dust dracaena before transplanting to promote healthy growth.
Wheelbarrow (if available)
It can be a great help to transport the plant and soil from one place to another.
How Do You Remove Gold Dust Dracaena from the Soil?
From Ground: Initially, give the soil around the gold dust dracaena a good water to soften it. Then, taking care not to damage the root system, create a wide circle around the base with your spade or shovel. Working your way around the plant gently lift the gold dust dracaena from the ground, making sure the root ball stays intact.
From Pot: If the gold dust dracaena is currently potted, start by watering the plant thoroughly to ease removal. After it has absorbed the water, carefully turn the pot to its side and gently coax the plant out of its container, supporting the stem and root ball as you do so. If the plant proves difficult to remove, you may need to gently tap the bottom or sides of the pot to loosen it.
From Seedling Tray: If you're moving a gold dust dracaena seedling, begin by watering the tray well. Gently hold the seedling by its leaves (not the stem, as it can easily be damaged) and push up from the bottom of the tray. Use a plant label or other small, flat device as a lever to help the seedling to pop out if needed.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Gold Dust Dracaena
Plant Preparation
Trim the gold dust dracaena plant before transplanting, removing any dead or disease-infected parts. This will aid in reducing future stress on the plant.
Hole Preparation
Dig a hole that's wider and deeper than the gold dust dracaena's root ball. The hole depth should be such that the top of the root ball is level with the ground when placed in the hole.
Placing the Plant
Position the plant in the hole. Adjust the soil under the plant if needed to ensure that the plant is at the correct height. The gold dust dracaena should be standing straight.
Fill the Hole
Carefully backfill the hole, firming the soil gently around the plant roots.
Water
After transplanting, water the gold dust dracaena properly and ensure it's sufficiently hydrated. This will help the soil settle around the roots and kickstart its growth.
Checkup
Regularly check your plant in the following days to ensure it's adapting well to its new location.
How Do You Care For Gold Dust Dracaena After Transplanting?
Pruning
Conduct gentle pruning of the gold dust dracaena plant to remove any parts that may become wilted or yellowed post-transplant, but remember not to over-prune.
Watering
Frequency should be maintained depending on how quickly the soil dries out. More frequent watering may be needed initially to help the gold dust dracaena establish in its new location, but be sure to avoid water stagnation around the base of your plant.
Pest Control
Keep a close eye out for pests and diseases during the first few weeks after transplanting.
Transplant Shock
Transplant shock may occur in your gold dust dracaena, which can manifest as wilting leaves or a general lack of vigor. If this happens, continue to care for the plant patiently, maintaining good watering and care practices, and consider consulting with a horticulturalist if your plant doesn't improve.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Gold Dust Dracaena Transplantation.
When is the perfect time to transplant gold dust dracaena?
The best time to transplant gold dust dracaena is in the transition season, specifically between Spring1 and Spring2.
How much space should I allow between each gold dust dracaena during transplantation?
Each gold dust dracaena requires sufficient space to thrive. Ideally, leave a gap of 1-2 feet or 30-60 cm.
Is it necessary to water gold dust dracaena before transplantation?
Yes, it's crucial to water gold dust dracaena before transplanting. It eases the strain of relocation and encourages root growth.
Should I prune gold dust dracaena before transplantation?
Yes, pruning gold dust dracaena helps to stimulate growth after transplanting. Remove any yellow or brown leaves beforehand.
How deep should the new hole be for gold dust dracaena?
The hole should be roomy enough for the root ball, generally twice its width and the same depth.
What type of soil is ideal for transplanting gold dust dracaena?
Gold dust dracaena prefers well-drained soil. Choose a loamy or sandy soil, avoid overly clayey soils that retain excess water.
How shall I care for gold dust dracaena after transplantation?
Water it thoroughly right after transplantation. Then keep it in a location with filtered sunlight. Monitor it closely.
What signs should I look for to know if gold dust dracaena transplantation was successful?
Look for signs of new growth, like sprouting leaves. This is a positive sign that your gold dust dracaena is acclimatizing.
Can I apply fertilizers immediately after transplanting gold dust dracaena?
Hold off on fertilizing for a few weeks post-transplantation. This avoids overwhelming the gold dust dracaena while it's still adjusting.
What if gold dust dracaena doesn't show any growth post-transplantation?
Don't worry, gold dust dracaena might be focusing on root development underground, at the expense of above-ground growth. Be patient.
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