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Home > Plant Care Guide > Echeveria Laui

How to Care for Echeveria Laui

The leaves of the echeveria laui are plump, and the whole plant is covered with a thick layer of white powder, like a lotus flower growing in the snow. When the plant is at its best, its leaf margins turn pink, and the white powder grows even thicker. It is important to note that this thick powder can easily be rubbed off and is difficult to recover, so touching the leaves should be avoided as much as possible.
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

For many novices, the most difficult problem is how much to water. Echeveria laui doesn't need much water. Don't water to a schedule; instead, pay attention to the state of the plant and the weather conditions. Learn to water a succulent plant correctly from the following five tips.
A. Weather. In hot weather or low temperatures, succulent plants become dormant. Reduce watering, usually once every 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of the plant is stagnates when dormant, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plants to die due to black rot.
B. Time. In summer, water in the evening to avoid the noon sun, because high heat makes the newly watered soil stuffy, which makes the root system prone to black rot. Timing does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of the succulent. Succulent plants show obvious symptoms when they need water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, leaves droop and slouch when they are thirsty. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil. You can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot. Pots with good air permeability lose water faster, so the frequency can be higher. For porcelain pots or pot without drainage holes, watering frequency should be lower.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What should I do if I water my Echeveria laui too much or too little?
Underwatered Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Echeveria laui looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Echeveria laui. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Echeveria laui is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Echeveria laui
Overwatering is dangerous to Echeveria laui and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Echeveria laui, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Echeveria laui. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Echeveria laui in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Echeveria laui?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Echeveria laui. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Echeveria laui about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Echeveria laui?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Echeveria laui needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Echeveria laui in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Echeveria laui has shallow root systems.
Echeveria laui will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Echeveria laui is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Echeveria laui can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Echeveria laui kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Echeveria laui?
The best way to water Echeveria laui is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Echeveria laui enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Echeveria laui, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Echeveria laui is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Echeveria laui.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild, where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, but it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer at all. Don't fertilize during dormancy, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may damages its growth.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Echeveria laui adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Echeveria laui does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Echeveria laui adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria laui only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria laui in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Echeveria laui has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Echeveria laui?
Fertilizing Echeveria laui adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Echeveria laui?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria laui only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria laui in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Echeveria laui?
Like most plants, Echeveria laui has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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What type of fertilizer does my Echeveria laui need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Echeveria laui?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Echeveria laui too much?
Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Generally speaking, echeveria laui needs bright, transparent, scattered light. Without enough sunlight over time, the plant becomes spindley, the tissue becomes brittle, and the color fades slowly. The plant's shape becomes loose, it turns green and yellow, and its resistance to disease decreases.
Strong summer sunlight may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or not at all. Its leaves grow compactly and stems shorten, which results in a shorter plant. In some succulent plants, old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape. In summer, set up a sunshade or move the potted plant indoors.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Echeveria laui need to grow?
Echeveria laui should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Echeveria laui will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Echeveria laui need?
Echeveria laui needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Echeveria laui from sun exposure?
Echeveria laui usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Echeveria laui is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Echeveria laui will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Echeveria laui doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Echeveria laui will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Echeveria laui may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Echeveria laui gets too much sunlight?
Echeveria laui may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Echeveria laui can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
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Does Echeveria laui need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Echeveria laui will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Echeveria laui?
It is best to water Echeveria laui in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Echeveria laui grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Echeveria laui is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

In order to keep a beautiful shape, large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, for echeveria planted in the garden, redundant branches or branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and fall. This depends on the plant's purpose and your preference. Tools for pruning mainly include knives, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, cut some leaves in spring and fall. Select a stout stem with 5-6 leaves. Cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. Slightly wet the soil used for planting.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Echeveria laui grows in mild temperature in spring and fall, and cannot resist extreme cold. If you are not in warmer area, grow it as a potted plant better rather than directly in garden soil.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, echeveria laui may become dormant. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or death. Its growing season is in spring and fall, and it needs a little water. In summer and winter, when it is dormant, watering should be reduced.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What's the ideal temperature for your Echeveria laui?
It is more suitable to keep the Echeveria laui in a particular range of conditions. Temperatures the same as 75-90℉ (25-32℃) are ideal for it. During the early winter season, the temperature shouldn't go below 75℉(25℃) for Echeveria laui. You can even move it indoors as it will have better protection from the extremes.
Despite that, the Echeveria laui can survive in some extreme temperatures. Sometimes can survive in low temperatures like 50℉ (15℃), but it is not ideal. You should bring it inside if winter conditions are expected outside.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Echeveria laui during different growing phases?
Echeveria laui has different growing phases. In the first stage, the dormant seed grows and transforms into a seedling. The dormant seeds need the appropriate conditions in their surroundings to grow as their seeds need a temperature of 75-90℉ (25-32℃) to germinate. The ideal time to make it grow vigorously is during the summer, as the most suitable temperature is around 85℉(30℃). You can adjust the placement of your Echeveria laui from indoors to sunlight during the hot summer months to receive enough sunlight.
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How can I keep my Echeveria laui warm in cold seasons?
It's advisable to bring your Echeveria laui indoors to avoid the harsh winter conditions. People opt to buy different types of grow light to provide enough sunlight for the plant. However, if your home is not extremely dark, it is not essential to buy these lights. Keep your plants where they will get the most sunlight possible. There should be sufficient light to keep the Echeveria laui thriving in winter. If you have several Echeveria laui, then keep them rotating so that they all receive enough sunlight.
Avoid placing your Echeveria laui too close to the window if you live in northern areas with frigid weather. The cold may be extreme to them, due to which they might get damaged.
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What happens to my Echeveria laui when the temperature is too high or too low?
Your Echeveria laui can grow better in summers and do better in warm temperatures 90℉(32℃) but you should protect it from temperature extremes during hot climates.
However, during winter, it is better to keep your plant dry. Echeveria laui do well in temperate climates having temperatures between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). However, some gardeners can expose their Echeveria laui to extreme temperatures causing stress in their plants. While high temperatures ranging between 90℉ and 95℉(32-35℃) can help maintain the deep colors for Echeveria laui, you must be careful when trying out such experiment. During the hot summer season extremely high temperatures can burn your Echeveria laui damaging their stem and root system. During the hottest time of the day (when the temperature is extremely high), consider relocating your plant to a shaded place or protect them with a shade cloth.
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Echeveria laui in different seasons?
In summers, high temperatures make the growth of Echeveria laui slowed down to survive in too hot a temperature.
As the cooler periods and rainfall begins, the Echeveria laui starts growing. If the place you live in has hot summers and warm winters with more rainfalls, you aren't required to change anything.
However, if you live in a place with cold winters, you should let your Echeveria laui grow more in summer and rest in winter. It is because there is not enough sunlight for Echeveria laui to grow in winter.
You can help your Echeveria laui enter dormancy if you live in a place with cold temperatures by decreasing the temperature to 50℉ to 75℉ (15℃ to 25℃).
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How can I keep my Echeveria laui warm without a heating pad?
To withstand freezing temperatures outside, as a solution, you can insulate your Echeveria laui with frost cloths, row covers, tents etc. You can also mulch your Echeveria laui with small rocks. Mulching the Echeveria laui soil will provide warmth to your plants and will not let you over-water the plant.
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How can I protect my Echeveria laui from temperature damage?
Echeveria laui is adapted to sunlight and requires sufficient sunlight for healthy growth. You can place it in an outdoor environment without any shade. However, Echeveria laui shouldn't be kept for a long time in the blazing sunlight in the hot summer when it requires to be put under shade so that extreme temperature doesn't damage them. If the winter is extreme in our area, you must keep your Echeveria laui indoors to keep them away from frost.
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What are the tips and precautions for keeping my Echeveria laui at the right temperature?
Increase water and fertilizer during the growth of plants in spring and summer. Prevent your plant from receiving too much sunlight. To cool plants, spray water around them when the temperature is exceptionally high but don't put water on their stem.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Loose, ventilated soil is very important for the growth of echeveria laui. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers. From top to bottom: the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer. Each requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. Choose it according to specific pots and plants.
The middle layer soil fixes plants in place and provides nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy succulent planting soil from a store, or buy soil materials to mix yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden hole to evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone, or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, make sure the bottom drainage layer has good water permeability.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

There are many ways to propagate succulents. Seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and fall. Select a whole leaf of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on slightly humid soil with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright, scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.

Propagation

Echeveria laui is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Echeveria lauis have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Echeveria laui. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Echeveria laui. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Echeveria laui dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Echeveria laui. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Echeveria laui to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Echeveria laui. After this period, Echeveria laui can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
When planting, add the hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot first, and then a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the roots and put them in. Cover the root with planting soil slowly. Add the top decorative layer, and finally, water once. To plant in the garden, dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. Repot in spring and fall. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance. Once the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. Gently pull the plant up slightly to ease it out of the pot, and then follow the steps described above.
Though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulents need water in the summer, while others don't. If they are planted together, one will become sick due to excessive watering, while the other may wither due to insufficient water.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Echeveria laui, 'echeveria laui', flourishes when transplanted during the late spring to early summer seasons. This is when the plant's growth is most vigorous, leading to successful transplanting. This perennial thrives in a sunny location with warm temperatures. Remember to water 'echeveria laui' thoroughly before moving it!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Flower Pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
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More About How-Tos

Water
Every 2-3 weeks
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Lighting
Full sun
Echeveria laui craves unobstructed exposure to the sun, yet also flourishes under partially shaded ambiances. Its habitat resembling that intensively sunlit environments accelerates its optimal growth. However, overexposure can cause damage, while inadequate light might stunt growth or inhibit blooming.
Learn More
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Echeveria laui naturally grows in climates with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers temperatures within this range. Depending on your local climate, seasonal adjustments may be necessary to maintain optimal temperatures.
Learn More
Transplant
2-4 inches
Echeveria laui, 'echeveria laui', flourishes when transplanted during the late spring to early summer seasons. This is when the plant's growth is most vigorous, leading to successful transplanting. This perennial thrives in a sunny location with warm temperatures. Remember to water 'echeveria laui' thoroughly before moving it!
Learn More
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

There are several ways to ensure ventilation in summer. ① use loose soil; ② use a ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plants in multi-ventilated environments.
In summer, avoid strong summer light. Move potted plants indoors, and shade outdoors plants. In addition, avoid direct sunlight after watering, as this will burn the plants.
Varieties with thick leaves have high water content in their leaves and easily dehydrate in heat. Reduce their water supply earlier, which can help plants enter dormancy smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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1
Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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2
Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
more
3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Echeveria laui based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
  1. Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
  2. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
  3. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
  1. Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
  1. Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
  2. Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
  3. Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
  4. Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
  5. Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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care_more_info

More About Echeveria Laui

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 cm
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Common Problems

Why do my plant's leaves turn yellow and wither?

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It's a natural phenomenon for leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal, and may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

more more
Wrinkled leaves are generally due to water shortage. When a succulent lacks water, wrinkled or shriveled leaves reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very tall stem but few leaves?

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Lack of light can lead to a weak, tall stem, fewer leaves, and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to injury. Place the succulent in a well-lit area and it will slowly improve over time.
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Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui
Echeveria laui

How to Care for Echeveria Laui

The leaves of the echeveria laui are plump, and the whole plant is covered with a thick layer of white powder, like a lotus flower growing in the snow. When the plant is at its best, its leaf margins turn pink, and the white powder grows even thicker. It is important to note that this thick powder can easily be rubbed off and is difficult to recover, so touching the leaves should be avoided as much as possible.
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
For many novices, the most difficult problem is how much to water. Echeveria laui doesn't need much water. Don't water to a schedule; instead, pay attention to the state of the plant and the weather conditions. Learn to water a succulent plant correctly from the following five tips.
A. Weather. In hot weather or low temperatures, succulent plants become dormant. Reduce watering, usually once every 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of the plant is stagnates when dormant, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plants to die due to black rot.
B. Time. In summer, water in the evening to avoid the noon sun, because high heat makes the newly watered soil stuffy, which makes the root system prone to black rot. Timing does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of the succulent. Succulent plants show obvious symptoms when they need water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, leaves droop and slouch when they are thirsty. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil. You can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot. Pots with good air permeability lose water faster, so the frequency can be higher. For porcelain pots or pot without drainage holes, watering frequency should be lower.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild, where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, but it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer at all. Don't fertilize during dormancy, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may damages its growth.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Echeveria laui adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Echeveria laui does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Echeveria laui adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria laui only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria laui in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria laui, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria laui can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Echeveria laui has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Generally speaking, echeveria laui needs bright, transparent, scattered light. Without enough sunlight over time, the plant becomes spindley, the tissue becomes brittle, and the color fades slowly. The plant's shape becomes loose, it turns green and yellow, and its resistance to disease decreases.
Strong summer sunlight may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or not at all. Its leaves grow compactly and stems shorten, which results in a shorter plant. In some succulent plants, old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape. In summer, set up a sunshade or move the potted plant indoors.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep a beautiful shape, large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, for echeveria planted in the garden, redundant branches or branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and fall. This depends on the plant's purpose and your preference. Tools for pruning mainly include knives, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, cut some leaves in spring and fall. Select a stout stem with 5-6 leaves. Cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. Slightly wet the soil used for planting.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Echeveria laui grows in mild temperature in spring and fall, and cannot resist extreme cold. If you are not in warmer area, grow it as a potted plant better rather than directly in garden soil.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, echeveria laui may become dormant. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or death. Its growing season is in spring and fall, and it needs a little water. In summer and winter, when it is dormant, watering should be reduced.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Loose, ventilated soil is very important for the growth of echeveria laui. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers. From top to bottom: the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer. Each requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. Choose it according to specific pots and plants.
The middle layer soil fixes plants in place and provides nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy succulent planting soil from a store, or buy soil materials to mix yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden hole to evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone, or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, make sure the bottom drainage layer has good water permeability.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are many ways to propagate succulents. Seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and fall. Select a whole leaf of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on slightly humid soil with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright, scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.
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Propagation

Echeveria laui is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Echeveria lauis have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Echeveria laui. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Echeveria laui. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Echeveria laui dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Echeveria laui. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Echeveria laui to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Echeveria laui. After this period, Echeveria laui can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting, add the hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot first, and then a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the roots and put them in. Cover the root with planting soil slowly. Add the top decorative layer, and finally, water once. To plant in the garden, dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. Repot in spring and fall. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance. Once the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. Gently pull the plant up slightly to ease it out of the pot, and then follow the steps described above.
Though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulents need water in the summer, while others don't. If they are planted together, one will become sick due to excessive watering, while the other may wither due to insufficient water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Echeveria laui, 'echeveria laui', flourishes when transplanted during the late spring to early summer seasons. This is when the plant's growth is most vigorous, leading to successful transplanting. This perennial thrives in a sunny location with warm temperatures. Remember to water 'echeveria laui' thoroughly before moving it!
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Flower Pots
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

There are several ways to ensure ventilation in summer. ① use loose soil; ② use a ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plants in multi-ventilated environments.
In summer, avoid strong summer light. Move potted plants indoors, and shade outdoors plants. In addition, avoid direct sunlight after watering, as this will burn the plants.
Varieties with thick leaves have high water content in their leaves and easily dehydrate in heat. Reduce their water supply earlier, which can help plants enter dormancy smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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1
Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Echeveria laui based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
  1. Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
  2. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
  3. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
  1. Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
  1. Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
  2. Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
  3. Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
  4. Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
  5. Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Echeveria Laui

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 cm
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Common Problems

Why do my plant's leaves turn yellow and wither?

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It's a natural phenomenon for leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal, and may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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Wrinkled leaves are generally due to water shortage. When a succulent lacks water, wrinkled or shriveled leaves reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very tall stem but few leaves?

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Lack of light can lead to a weak, tall stem, fewer leaves, and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to injury. Place the succulent in a well-lit area and it will slowly improve over time.
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Water
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How Often Should I Water Echeveria Laui?
Every 2-3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Echeveria laui, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Echeveria laui, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Loss of turgor pressure
When plants are underwatered, their cells lose water, causing a loss of turgor pressure. This can result in the plant appearing limp or deflated.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Echeveria laui craves unobstructed exposure to the sun, yet also flourishes under partially shaded ambiances. Its habitat resembling that intensively sunlit environments accelerates its optimal growth. However, overexposure can cause damage, while inadequate light might stunt growth or inhibit blooming.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Echeveria laui is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Echeveria laui may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Echeveria laui enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Echeveria laui require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Echeveria laui naturally grows in climates with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It prefers temperatures within this range. Depending on your local climate, seasonal adjustments may be necessary to maintain optimal temperatures.
Regional wintering strategies
Echeveria laui is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Echeveria laui grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Echeveria laui thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Echeveria laui should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Echeveria Laui?
Echeveria laui, 'echeveria laui', flourishes when transplanted during the late spring to early summer seasons. This is when the plant's growth is most vigorous, leading to successful transplanting. This perennial thrives in a sunny location with warm temperatures. Remember to water 'echeveria laui' thoroughly before moving it!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Echeveria Laui?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Echeveria Laui?
The best time to transplant echeveria laui is during the late spring to early summer. This is when echeveria laui is in its active growth phase and can recover swiftly from the shock of transplantation. Relocating echeveria laui during this time provides the establish root system and produces lush, vibrant views. The friendly advice is to transplant echeveria laui in its thriving period for impressive results.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Echeveria Laui Plants?
For echeveria laui plant, ideal spacing is important! Please allow between 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) when transplanting. This breathing room will allow your plants to grow comfortably and optimally.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Echeveria Laui Transplanting?
Preparations start with the soil - well-draining Cactus mix soil is suitable for echeveria laui. Adding a base fertilizer, like a slow-release granular one, will give your plant the nutrients it needs to thrive.
Where Should You Relocate Your Echeveria Laui?
Find a nice spot for echeveria laui where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight. Avoid direct, harsh sunshine as it may cause leaf burn. Ideal sunlight brings out the best of your plant beauties!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Echeveria Laui?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the plant and soil.
Trowel or Spade
To safely remove the echeveria laui plant from its original location while preserving the root ball.
Pruning Shears
To prune any dead or diseased leaves from the echeveria laui prior to transplanting.
Garden Hose or Watering Can
To thoroughly water the plant before and after transplanting.
New Planting Pot or Garden Location
To place the transplanted echeveria laui.
How Do You Remove Echeveria Laui from the Soil?
Step1 Site Selection

Identify the right spot for your echeveria laui in the transplant pot or garden depending on its sunlight, space and soil requirements.

Step2 Preparation

With the aid of your trowel or spade, dig a hole in the new location that's deep and wide enough to accommodate the plant's root mass.

Step3 Transplanting

Gently place the echeveria laui in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the soil surface.

Step4 Settling

Fill the hole with soil and gently firm it around the base of the plant.

Step5 Watering

After transplanting, water the echeveria laui thoroughly, ensuring the soil is moist, but not water-logged.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Echeveria Laui
Step1 Site Selection
Identify the right spot for your echeveria laui in the transplant pot or garden depending on its sunlight, space and soil requirements.
Step2 Preparation
With the aid of your trowel or spade, dig a hole in the new location that's deep and wide enough to accommodate the plant's root mass.
Step3 Transplanting
Gently place the echeveria laui in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the soil surface.
Step4 Settling
Fill the hole with soil and gently firm it around the base of the plant.
Step5 Watering
After transplanting, water the echeveria laui thoroughly, ensuring the soil is moist, but not water-logged.
How Do You Care For Echeveria Laui After Transplanting?
Watering
Maintain a consistent watering schedule for your echeveria laui. Do not allow the soil to become too dry or too soggy.
Pruning
Remove dead or diseased leaves from your echeveria laui to maintain its health and encourage growth. Be sure to use clean pruning shears to prevent the spread of disease.
Monitoring
Keep a close eye on your echeveria laui after transplantation. If it shows signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, reassess its needs, including light, water, and nutrients.
Environment
Remember that echeveria laui prefers a stable environment, so try to avoid extreme temperature fluctuations.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Echeveria Laui Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant echeveria laui?
The ideal time to transplant echeveria laui is during the 'S4-S6', know in common terms as late spring to early summer.
How much space should I leave between echeveria laui when transplanting?
Echeveria laui plants should be spaced approximately 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) apart to ensure healthy growth without overcrowding.
How deep should I plant echeveria laui when transplanting?
The root ball of echeveria laui should be planted at the same depth it was in the original container. Over-deep planting can cause rot.
How much should I water echeveria laui after transplanting?
Water echeveria laui thoroughly immediately after transplanting. However, allow the soil to mostly dry out before the next watering to prevent overwatering.
What should I do if the leaves of the transplanted echeveria laui start to wilt?
If echeveria laui's leaves begin to wilt after transplanting, it may be in shock. Keep it in a stable environment and water moderately.
What kind of soil should I use for transplanting echeveria laui?
Echeveria laui prefers well-draining soil. A mix of 2/3 standard potting soil and 1/3 perlite is a good option to promote water drainage.
What light conditions are best for a transplanted echeveria laui?
Echeveria laui enjoys bright light with some direct sunlight. Following transplanting, place it in a well-lit spot but avoid harsh midday sun.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted echeveria laui turning yellow?
Yellow leaves could indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Ensure the transplanted echeveria laui is in well-draining soil and adjust watering as necessary.
How do I deal with root rot after transplanting echeveria laui?
If echeveria laui has root rot, it's crucial to remove the plant, cut off the damaged roots, treat with fungicide, and repot in fresh soil.
Can echeveria laui be transplanted outdoors?
Yes, echeveria laui can be transplanted outdoors, but it's not frost-tolerant. So in areas with severe winters, consider growing it in containers that can be moved inside.
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Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
Cookie Name
_adj
Source
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Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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