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Basic Care
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FAQ

How to Care for Echeveria Runyonii

Echeveria runyonii grows fast and has almost no dormancy period. Its leaves have obtusely rounded, pale pink leaf margins and a layer of white powder on their gray-white surfaces. The leaves grow compactly when receiving sufficient light. Its leaf cuttings tend to survive easily and require no special care or maintenance, making the plant a good choice for gardening beginners.
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Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
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Full sun
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Echeveria runyonii?

For many novices, the most difficult problem is how much to water. Echeveria runyonii doesn't need much water. Don't water to a schedule; instead, pay attention to the state of the plant and the weather conditions. Learn to water a succulent plant correctly from the following five tips.
A. Weather. In hot weather or low temperatures, succulent plants become dormant. Reduce watering, usually once every 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of the plant is stagnates when dormant, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plants to die due to black rot.
B. Time. In summer, water in the evening to avoid the noon sun, because high heat makes the newly watered soil stuffy, which makes the root system prone to black rot. Timing does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of the succulent. Succulent plants show obvious symptoms when they need water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, leaves droop and slouch when they are thirsty. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil. You can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot. Pots with good air permeability lose water faster, so the frequency can be higher. For porcelain pots or pot without drainage holes, watering frequency should be lower.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Echeveria runyonii?
The proper way to water Echeveria runyonii requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Echeveria runyonii will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Echeveria runyonii too much or too little?
An overwatered Echeveria runyonii is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Echeveria runyonii to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Echeveria runyonii shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Echeveria runyonii in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Echeveria runyonii?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Echeveria runyonii are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Echeveria runyonii to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Echeveria runyonii need?
Overall, Echeveria runyonii does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Echeveria runyonii enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Echeveria runyonii, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Echeveria runyonii through the seasons?
As mentioned, Echeveria runyonii needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Echeveria runyoniis begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Echeveria runyonii at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Echeveria runyonii will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Echeveria runyonii prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Echeveria runyonii may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Echeveria runyoniis can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Echeveria runyonii may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Echeveria runyonii indoors and outdoors?
Growing Echeveria runyoniis outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Echeveria runyonii will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Echeveria runyoniis at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Echeveria runyonii?

Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild, where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, but it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer at all. Don't fertilize during dormancy, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may damages its growth.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Echeveria runyonii adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Echeveria runyonii does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Echeveria runyonii adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria runyonii only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria runyonii in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Echeveria runyonii has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Echeveria runyonii?
Fertilizing Echeveria runyonii adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Echeveria runyonii?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria runyonii only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria runyonii in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Echeveria runyonii?
Like most plants, Echeveria runyonii has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Echeveria runyonii need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Echeveria runyonii?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Echeveria runyonii too much?
Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Echeveria runyonii?

Generally speaking, echeveria runyonii needs bright, transparent, scattered light. Without enough sunlight over time, the plant becomes spindley, the tissue becomes brittle, and the color fades slowly. The plant's shape becomes loose, it turns green and yellow, and its resistance to disease decreases.
Strong summer sunlight may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or not at all. Its leaves grow compactly and stems shorten, which results in a shorter plant. In some succulent plants, old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape. In summer, set up a sunshade or move the potted plant indoors.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Echeveria runyonii need to grow?
Echeveria runyonii should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Echeveria runyonii will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Echeveria runyonii need?
Echeveria runyonii needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Echeveria runyonii from sun exposure?
Echeveria runyonii usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Echeveria runyonii is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Echeveria runyonii will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Echeveria runyonii doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Echeveria runyonii will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Echeveria runyonii may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Echeveria runyonii gets too much sunlight?
Echeveria runyonii may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Echeveria runyonii can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
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Does Echeveria runyonii need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Echeveria runyonii will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Echeveria runyonii?
It is best to water Echeveria runyonii in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Echeveria runyonii grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Echeveria runyonii is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Echeveria runyonii?

In order to keep a beautiful shape, large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, for echeveria planted in the garden, redundant branches or branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and fall. This depends on the plant's purpose and your preference. Tools for pruning mainly include knives, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, cut some leaves in spring and fall. Select a stout stem with 5-6 leaves. Cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. Slightly wet the soil used for planting.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Echeveria runyonii?

Echeveria runyonii grows in mild temperature in spring and fall, and cannot resist extreme cold. If you are not in warmer area, grow it as a potted plant better rather than directly in garden soil.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, echeveria runyonii may become dormant. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or death. Its growing season is in spring and fall, and it needs a little water. In summer and winter, when it is dormant, watering should be reduced.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Echeveria runyonii?
To create the best possible environment for Echeveria runyonii, you’ll want to grow your Echeveria runyonii in temperatures between 60-75℉ (15-25℃). They can tolerate marginally higher and lower temperatures, but this range will help facilitate optimal growth.
Echeveria runyonii that experience temperatures below 40℉(10℃) or above 95℉(35℃) will go into a state of dormancy, halting their growth. Staying above 95℉ (35℃) for anything other than a short period can damage these plants; enough time in high temperatures may kill them entirely.
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Does Echeveria runyonii require different temperatures for different growing phases?
Echeveria runyonii do require different temperatures to enter their different phases of life, primarily the dormant phase they reach during summer and their growing phase during the winter. Echeveria runyonii need cooler temperatures to actively grow, but not too cold; anything below 40℉(10℃) will push them into a state of dormancy regardless of season.
High temperatures can also induce a dormant state, restricting growth and reducing the plant's watering needs. Too much watering during dormancy can drown the plant and cause root rot, so make sure to only water the soil when it feels dry.
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Three tips for keeping Echeveria runyonii temperature under control
Tip #1: Don’t Over-Water When Temperatures Are High
It may seem counterintuitive, but Echeveria runyonii actually need less water during summer. To see if your plants have enough moisture, check the soil by putting your pointer finger two inches (5 cm) below the surface and feeling to see if it's dry. If it's already wet and you continue to water it, you can cause the roots of your plant to rot.
Tip #2: Don’t Panic If Temperatures Occasionally Get Too High or Low
While you’ll want to keep your Echeveria runyonii in the optimal temperature range as much as possible, they won’t die instantly if temperatures drop or rise. Echeveria runyonii have even been known to survive at temperatures below 0 ℃ for small amounts of time. Temperature fluctuations will usually cause your plants to enter a state of dormancy, going into survival mode and utilizing less water. You’ll want to return them to the correct range as soon as possible, but don’t think all is lost if the temperature suddenly shifts.
Tip #3: Avoid Placing Your Echeveria runyonii in Extreme Heat
When exposed to very high temperatures for extended periods of time, Echeveria runyonii will begin to change and experience damage. The changes may seem aesthetically pleasing at first, with the leaves changing into muted shades of red, yellow, and orange. But eventually they will begin to wither as the plant succumbs to sun damage, eventually stopping it's growth entirely and causing your Echeveria runyonii to die.
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Does Echeveria runyonii need different temperatures for different seasons?
Echeveria runyonii actively grow in winter, though their flowers won’t appear until the warmer temperatures of spring. If you are planting these succulents indoors, the seasons won’t affect their temperature requirements very much. The focus will be more on the ability for the plants to get the right amount of sunlight.
Winters can make it more difficult for Echeveria runyonii to get the right amount of light, while summers can provide an overabundance. Too much sunlight can damage the leaves and stems of the plant, slowing their growth or halting it entirely. Keep your Echeveria runyonii in an area with bright but indirect light to see the best results.
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What is the best way to keep my Echeveria runyonii at the optimal temperature?
If you are growing your Echeveria runyonii indoors, you’ll want them kept in an area of your home with a climate control system. This system can be an A/C unit if you live in a warmer region or a heater if you live in a colder region, though the air from either should not come directly in contact with the plants. Try to have as much natural air as possible without drastically shifting the surrounding temperature. You’ll also want to be mindful of the sunlight they experience, keeping them in rooms with ample, but indirect, window lighting.
If your Echeveria runyonii is outside, you’ll want to control the temperature by positioning it for optimum sunlight. This means avoiding the direct sunlight and heat of midday; Echeveria runyonii is full sun or partial shade plants, dappled sunlight filtered through a tree, plant, or fabric structure is the best. An overabundance of sunlight can also expose them to high temperatures, putting them at risk of dormancy and damage.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Echeveria runyonii?

Loose, ventilated soil is very important for the growth of echeveria runyonii. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers. From top to bottom: the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer. Each requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. Choose it according to specific pots and plants.
The middle layer soil fixes plants in place and provides nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy succulent planting soil from a store, or buy soil materials to mix yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden hole to evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone, or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, make sure the bottom drainage layer has good water permeability.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Echeveria runyonii?

There are many ways to propagate succulents. Seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and fall. Select a whole leaf of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on slightly humid soil with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright, scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.

Propagation

Echeveria runyonii is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Echeveria runyoniis have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Echeveria runyonii. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Echeveria runyonii. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Echeveria runyonii dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Echeveria runyonii. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Echeveria runyonii to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Echeveria runyonii. After this period, Echeveria runyonii can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Echeveria runyonii?

When planting, add the hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot first, and then a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the roots and put them in. Cover the root with planting soil slowly. Add the top decorative layer, and finally, water once. To plant in the garden, dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. Repot in spring and fall. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance. Once the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. Gently pull the plant up slightly to ease it out of the pot, and then follow the steps described above.
Though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulents need water in the summer, while others don't. If they are planted together, one will become sick due to excessive watering, while the other may wither due to insufficient water.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Echeveria runyonii?

Transplant echeveria runyonii ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Echeveria runyonii?

It can be repotted every few years according to growth conditions and the pot diameter should be 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the plant diameter.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Echeveria Runyonii Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Echeveria runyonii hails from habitats where exposure to sun is constant yet diffused. An abundance of sun helps it flourish, while tolerating lower light levels. In its growth stages, differentiating sunlight exposure isn't critical. Overexposure can lead to scorched leaves. A lack of sun might make echeveria runyonii leggy as it reaches for more light.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Echeveria runyonii prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). This succulent is native to areas with mild temperatures and enjoys bright, indirect sunlight. In the colder months, it is important to adjust the watering and provide protection from frost if the temperature drops below 50℉ (10℃).
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-8 inches
Transplant echeveria runyonii ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
The echeveria runyonii in Feng Shui is viewed as a versatile plant that harmonizes with various energy flows. It is particularly compatible with a South-facing environment. The reason for this is the plant's inherent fiery energy, synonymous with the South's element in Feng Shui. This perfect match can enhance the Chi in the living area. However, the outcomes could vary depending on individual interpretations of Feng Shui principles.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

There are several ways to ensure ventilation in summer. ① use loose soil; ② use a ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plants in multi-ventilated environments.
In summer, avoid strong summer light. Move potted plants indoors, and shade outdoors plants. In addition, avoid direct sunlight after watering, as this will burn the plants.
Varieties with thick leaves have high water content in their leaves and easily dehydrate in heat. Reduce their water supply earlier, which can help plants enter dormancy smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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1
Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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2
Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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3
Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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4
The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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5
Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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1
When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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2
Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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3
Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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1
You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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2
Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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3
While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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4
Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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1
Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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2
Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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3
You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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4
These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Echeveria runyonii based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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More About Echeveria Runyonii

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Orange
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 cm

Name story

Topsy turvy
Echeveria runyonii got its common name from its unusual position and the shape of its leaves. The leaves of Echeveria runyonii are so twisted and rolled downwards that they look as if they are turned upside down, hence the common English name echeveria runyonii.

Usages

Garden Use
When it's potted, echeveria runyonii is a wonderful decorative succulent for patio succulent gardens and windowsills. The showy foliage also adds interest to outdoor succulent and rock gardens year-round and becomes the most ornamental during its flowering season, in summer and autumn. This plant can't handle frost or direct sunlight but thrives in warm, slightly sunny locations.
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Common Problems

Why do my plant's leaves turn yellow and wither?

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It's a natural phenomenon for leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal, and may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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Wrinkled leaves are generally due to water shortage. When a succulent lacks water, wrinkled or shriveled leaves reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very tall stem but few leaves?

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Lack of light can lead to a weak, tall stem, fewer leaves, and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to injury. Place the succulent in a well-lit area and it will slowly improve over time.
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Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria runyonii

How to Care for Echeveria Runyonii

Echeveria runyonii grows fast and has almost no dormancy period. Its leaves have obtusely rounded, pale pink leaf margins and a layer of white powder on their gray-white surfaces. The leaves grow compactly when receiving sufficient light. Its leaf cuttings tend to survive easily and require no special care or maintenance, making the plant a good choice for gardening beginners.
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Symbolism

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Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
For many novices, the most difficult problem is how much to water. Echeveria runyonii doesn't need much water. Don't water to a schedule; instead, pay attention to the state of the plant and the weather conditions. Learn to water a succulent plant correctly from the following five tips.
A. Weather. In hot weather or low temperatures, succulent plants become dormant. Reduce watering, usually once every 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of the plant is stagnates when dormant, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plants to die due to black rot.
B. Time. In summer, water in the evening to avoid the noon sun, because high heat makes the newly watered soil stuffy, which makes the root system prone to black rot. Timing does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of the succulent. Succulent plants show obvious symptoms when they need water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, leaves droop and slouch when they are thirsty. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil. You can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot. Pots with good air permeability lose water faster, so the frequency can be higher. For porcelain pots or pot without drainage holes, watering frequency should be lower.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild, where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, but it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer at all. Don't fertilize during dormancy, because too many nutrients that it can't absorb may damages its growth.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Echeveria runyonii adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Echeveria runyonii does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Echeveria runyonii adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Echeveria runyonii only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Echeveria runyonii in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Echeveria runyonii, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Echeveria runyonii can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Echeveria runyonii has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Generally speaking, echeveria runyonii needs bright, transparent, scattered light. Without enough sunlight over time, the plant becomes spindley, the tissue becomes brittle, and the color fades slowly. The plant's shape becomes loose, it turns green and yellow, and its resistance to disease decreases.
Strong summer sunlight may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or not at all. Its leaves grow compactly and stems shorten, which results in a shorter plant. In some succulent plants, old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape. In summer, set up a sunshade or move the potted plant indoors.
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How much sunlight does Echeveria runyonii need to grow?
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep a beautiful shape, large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, for echeveria planted in the garden, redundant branches or branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and fall. This depends on the plant's purpose and your preference. Tools for pruning mainly include knives, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, cut some leaves in spring and fall. Select a stout stem with 5-6 leaves. Cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. Slightly wet the soil used for planting.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Echeveria runyonii grows in mild temperature in spring and fall, and cannot resist extreme cold. If you are not in warmer area, grow it as a potted plant better rather than directly in garden soil.
When the temperature is higher than 30 ℃ in summer, echeveria runyonii may become dormant. When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, move it indoors to avoid irreversible frostbite or death. Its growing season is in spring and fall, and it needs a little water. In summer and winter, when it is dormant, watering should be reduced.
What is the optimal temperature for Echeveria runyonii?
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Does Echeveria runyonii require different temperatures for different growing phases?
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Three tips for keeping Echeveria runyonii temperature under control
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Loose, ventilated soil is very important for the growth of echeveria runyonii. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers. From top to bottom: the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer. Each requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. Choose it according to specific pots and plants.
The middle layer soil fixes plants in place and provides nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy succulent planting soil from a store, or buy soil materials to mix yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss:perlite:volcanic rock:vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden hole to evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone, or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, make sure the bottom drainage layer has good water permeability.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are many ways to propagate succulents. Seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and fall. Select a whole leaf of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on slightly humid soil with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright, scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.
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Propagation

Echeveria runyonii is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Echeveria runyoniis have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Echeveria runyonii. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Echeveria runyonii. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Echeveria runyonii dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Echeveria runyonii. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Echeveria runyonii to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Echeveria runyonii. After this period, Echeveria runyonii can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting, add the hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot first, and then a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the roots and put them in. Cover the root with planting soil slowly. Add the top decorative layer, and finally, water once. To plant in the garden, dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. Repot in spring and fall. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance. Once the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. Gently pull the plant up slightly to ease it out of the pot, and then follow the steps described above.
Though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulents need water in the summer, while others don't. If they are planted together, one will become sick due to excessive watering, while the other may wither due to insufficient water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Echeveria runyonii?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Transplant echeveria runyonii ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Echeveria runyonii?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
It can be repotted every few years according to growth conditions and the pot diameter should be 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the plant diameter.
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More Info on Echeveria Runyonii Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

There are several ways to ensure ventilation in summer. ① use loose soil; ② use a ceramic pot with good air permeability; ③ keep potted plants in multi-ventilated environments.
In summer, avoid strong summer light. Move potted plants indoors, and shade outdoors plants. In addition, avoid direct sunlight after watering, as this will burn the plants.
Varieties with thick leaves have high water content in their leaves and easily dehydrate in heat. Reduce their water supply earlier, which can help plants enter dormancy smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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4
The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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5
Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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1
When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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2
Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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3
Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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1
You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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2
Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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4
Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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1
Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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3
You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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4
These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Echeveria runyonii based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
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Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
  1. Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
  2. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
  3. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
  1. Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
  1. Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
  2. Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
  3. Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
  4. Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
  5. Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Echeveria Runyonii

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Orange
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Flower Size
Flower Size
1 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 cm

Name story

Topsy turvy
Echeveria runyonii got its common name from its unusual position and the shape of its leaves. The leaves of Echeveria runyonii are so twisted and rolled downwards that they look as if they are turned upside down, hence the common English name echeveria runyonii.

Usages

Garden Use
When it's potted, echeveria runyonii is a wonderful decorative succulent for patio succulent gardens and windowsills. The showy foliage also adds interest to outdoor succulent and rock gardens year-round and becomes the most ornamental during its flowering season, in summer and autumn. This plant can't handle frost or direct sunlight but thrives in warm, slightly sunny locations.
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Common Problems

Why do my plant's leaves turn yellow and wither?

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It's a natural phenomenon for leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal, and may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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Wrinkled leaves are generally due to water shortage. When a succulent lacks water, wrinkled or shriveled leaves reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very tall stem but few leaves?

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Lack of light can lead to a weak, tall stem, fewer leaves, and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to injury. Place the succulent in a well-lit area and it will slowly improve over time.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Echeveria runyonii hails from habitats where exposure to sun is constant yet diffused. An abundance of sun helps it flourish, while tolerating lower light levels. In its growth stages, differentiating sunlight exposure isn't critical. Overexposure can lead to scorched leaves. A lack of sun might make echeveria runyonii leggy as it reaches for more light.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Echeveria runyonii is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your echeveria runyonii may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Echeveria runyonii enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Echeveria runyonii require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Echeveria runyonii prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). This succulent is native to areas with mild temperatures and enjoys bright, indirect sunlight. In the colder months, it is important to adjust the watering and provide protection from frost if the temperature drops below 50℉ (10℃).
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Echeveria runyonii, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Echeveria runyonii is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
High Temperature
During summer, Echeveria runyonii should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Echeveria Runyonii?
Transplant echeveria runyonii ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Echeveria Runyonii?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Echeveria Runyonii?
For echeveria runyonii, the prime transplanting period is from the dawning of spring to its zenith, or the heart of autumn to its twilight. Undertaking the transfer during these periods allows the plant to acclimate to its new home with minimal stress, ensuring it thrives in the new location. In kind words, it's like giving echeveria runyonii the chance to comfortably settle down before the harsher seasons take over.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Echeveria Runyonii Plants?
When transplanting echeveria runyonii, a comfortable space between plants would be 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart. This will allow them to grow and spread their rosettes without being overcrowded.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Echeveria Runyonii Transplanting?
For echeveria runyonii, a well-draining soil mixture is essential. A blend of cactus/succulent mix and coarse sand or perlite would be ideal. Mix in a slow-release fertilizer to provide essential nutrients as the plant grows.
Where Should You Relocate Your Echeveria Runyonii?
Find a location for echeveria runyonii that receives plenty of sunlight, ideally 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. A south or west-facing area in your garden would be perfect for promoting healthy growth.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Echeveria Runyonii?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and echeveria runyonii plant.
Hand Trowel
To dig holes for transplanting and to remove excess soil from the root ball.
Shovel or Spade
To dig larger holes and remove the plant from its original location.
Watering Can
To water the plant after transplanting and to aid in the removal process.
Scissors or Pruning Shears
To trim dead or damaged leaves, stems, and roots before transplanting.
Support Stakes (optional)
To provide additional support to echeveria runyonii if needed after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Echeveria Runyonii from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the echeveria runyonii plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's rootball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the echeveria runyonii plant to dampen the soil. Gently loosen the edges of the pot and carefully slide the plant and root ball out, maintaining as much soil as possible around the roots. If the plant is rootbound, requiring pruning, use scissors or pruning shears to trim and untangle the roots.
From Seedling Tray: Water the echeveria runyonii seedlings to dampen the soil. Carefully push the seedling from the bottom of the tray to loosen and separate it from the tray without damaging the roots. Alternatively, use a pair of clean tweezers to lift the seedling gently by its true leaves (the second set of leaves that appear, not the first two seedling leaves).
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Echeveria Runyonii
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your echeveria runyonii plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Digging the Hole
Using a hand trowel or shovel, dig a hole in the ground that is twice as wide and deep as the echeveria runyonii's root ball.
Step3 Preparing the Root Ball
Examine the roots of the echeveria runyonii plant and trim away any dead, damaged, or tangled roots using scissors or pruning shears.
Step4 Placing the Plant
Place the echeveria runyonii plant into the hole, ensuring that the top of the rootball is level with the ground. Gently backfill the hole with soil, pressing it down around the roots.
Step5 Watering
Water the echeveria runyonii immediately after transplanting to hydrate the plant and settle the soil around the roots.
Step6 Optional Support
If your echeveria runyonii plant needs additional support, such as a stake, install it now. Be careful not to damage the roots.
How Do You Care For Echeveria Runyonii After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the echeveria runyonii consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Trimming
Inspect the echeveria runyonii plant for any dead or damaged leaves, stems, and roots, removing them using scissors or pruning shears to encourage new growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the echeveria runyonii for any signs of stress or disease, addressing any issues as they arise.
Frost Protection
If frost is expected, provide temporary cover to protect the newly transplanted echeveria runyonii from damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Echeveria Runyonii Transplantation.
When should I transplant my echeveria runyonii?
The optimal time for transplanting your echeveria runyonii is during early to late spring or from mid-fall to late fall. This is when the plant can best handle the shift.
How much space does the echeveria runyonii need when transplanting?
Your echeveria runyonii will appreciate a bit of room to grow. Plan for a spacing of around 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) between each plant.
Why are the leaves of my echeveria runyonii wrinkling post-transplant?
Wrinkled leaves often indicate that the echeveria runyonii is not getting enough water. Maintain a consistent watering schedule, especially after transplanting.
What should I do if my echeveria runyonii is wilting after I transplanted it?
Wilting could be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure you watered it properly and placed it under indirect sunlight. If wilting continues, consider changing its location.
Post-transplant, I noticed my echeveria runyonii has brown leaf tips. What could be the cause?
Brown leaf tips usually indicate underwatering or exposure to extreme temperatures. Maintain a moderate temperature and a regular watering routine.
My echeveria runyonii is showing stunted growth after transplanting, what should I do?
Stunted growth could be due to insufficient light or nutrient deficiency. Ensure your echeveria runyonii is getting enough sunlight and top up with a balanced fertilizer.
I transplanted my echeveria runyonii and its leaves are becoming thin and transparent. Why is this happening?
Thin, transparent leaves might mean your echeveria runyonii is being overwatered. Cut back on watering and ensure the soil has good drainage.
What’s the best soil mixture to use when transplanting echeveria runyonii?
Echeveria runyonii favours a well-draining soil mix. A good blend would be one part perlite to three parts potting soil. This structure prevents waterlog and supports root growth.
Why is my echeveria runyonii losing its vibrant colour after transplanting?
Your echeveria runyonii might not be getting enough sun to keep its color. If possible, move it to a brighter location but avoid direct sun to prevent scorching.
Can I transplant echeveria runyonii in a pot without a drainage hole?
It's not ideal, as echeveria runyonii prefers well-draining soil to avoid root rot. If you must, add a layer of gravel at the bottom for retaining excess water.
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