Your Thorny olive will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Thorny olive. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Thorny olive. However, the Thorny olive usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
Related Plants
How to Care for Thorny Olive
Thorny olive (Elaeagnus pungens) is a flowering shrub native to Asia. Thorny olive is also commonly called silverthorn. In the United States, thorny olive is planted ornamentally in landscaping in the southeastern region. Thorny olive grows in variable temperate conditions, and it attracts birds.
Symbolism
Healing, Peace, Fertility
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Basic Care Guide
Water
In the first year after planting, thorny olive seedlings need sufficient water. Water infiltrates down in well-drained soil and helps the seedling roots develop downwards. Usually, watering once a week in the spring and summer can keep 30 cm-deep soil moist. Watering can stop in the fall when the seedling moves into dormancy. Mature thorny olive is drought-resistant and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Thorny olive?
Read More ![more]()
What should I do if I water my Thorny olive too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Thorny olive can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Thorny olive is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Thorny olive, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Thorny olive from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Thorny olive in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Thorny olive, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
Read More ![more]()
How often should I water my Thorny olive?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Thorny olive is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Thorny olive. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Thorny olive .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
Read More ![more]()
How much water does my Thorny olive need?
When it comes time to water your Thorny olive, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Thorny olive by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Thorny olive gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Thorny olive is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Thorny olive is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Thorny olive a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Read More ![more]()
How can I tell if i'm watering my Thorny olive enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Thorny olive, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Thorny olive will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Thorny olive will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Thorny olive.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Thorny olive at different growth stages?
When the Thorny olive is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Thorny olive that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Thorny olive can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Thorny olive is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Thorny olive through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Thorny olive. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Thorny olive will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More ![more]()
What's the difference between watering my Thorny olive indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Thorny olive may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
Read More ![more]()
Fertilizer
Garden-planted thorny olive shrub doesn't require much fertilizing. Excessive fertilizing may even make the plant vulnerable to pests and diseases. In the winter, apply a small amount of compost organic manure, or slow-release shrub plant food, as instructed. Nutrients are often scarce in a pot, so apply a thin layer of organic fertilizers once every other month in the spring and PK fertilizer once in the fall to potted thorny olive.
Fertilizer
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Why do I need to fertilize my Thorny olive?
Regardless of which kind of Thorny olive you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Thorny olive be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Thorny olive is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Thorny olive. Doing so will prompt your Thorny olive to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More ![more]()
When is the best time to fertilize my Thorny olive?
The first time that you should fertilize your Thorny olive is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Thorny olive all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Thorny olive to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Thorny olive will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Thorny olive be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
Read More ![more]()
When should I avoid fertilizing my Thorny olive?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Thorny olive. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Thorny olive will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Thorny olive will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More ![more]()
What type of fertilizer does my Thorny olive need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Thorny olive is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Thorny olive likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Thorny olive. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More ![more]()
How do I fertilize my Thorny olive?
To fertilize your Thorny olive using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Thorny olive, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Thorny olive. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Read More ![more]()
What happens if I fertilize my Thorny olive too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Thorny olive. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Thorny olive may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Thorny olive can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Thorny olive to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Thorny olive.
Read More ![more]()
Sunlight
Thorny olive shrub likes sufficient sunlight, but can also grow in slightly shady environments. It grows best in an open space with over 3 hours of sunlight daily. If light conditions are poor, it won't grow healthily. Shade it from direct sunlight in hot summers to avoid withering from the blazing sun.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Thorny olive get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Thorny olive receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
Read More ![more]()
What type of sunlight does Thorny olive need?
Thorny olive does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
Read More ![more]()
Can sunlight damage Thorny olive? How to protect Thorny olive from the sun and heat damage?
Thorny olive planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Thorny olive during extreme weather events.
Read More ![more]()
Does Thorny olive need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Thorny olive from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Thorny olive, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Thorny olive to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
Read More ![more]()
What will happen if Thorny olive gets inadequate sunlight?
When Thorny olive receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Thorny olive receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
Read More ![more]()
Does Thorny olive need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Thorny olive and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Thorny olive fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
Read More ![more]()
Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Thorny olive?
Recently transplanted Thorny olive will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Thorny olive drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Thorny olive that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
Read More ![more]()
Pruning
Prune for shape in the spring and summer. Winter is the time to prune old, dried branches or trim poorly-growing plants to half of their original height, which helps promote the sprout of robust new branches the next spring. To prevent pests and diseases from invading the branch incisions through rainwater, don't prune on rainy days. Thorny olive branches are thorny, so wear thick gloves during pruning.
Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
plants of the Elaeagnus genus are distributed throughout temperate and subtropical zones. They like warm, moist environments and can tolerate temperatures down to -23 to 2 ℃. Mature thorny olive has strong heat-tolerant and drought-enduring capabilities and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
What is the optimal temperature for Thorny olive?
The best temperature for Thorny olive to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect：65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest：85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest：-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
Read More ![more]()
Should I adjust the temperature for Thorny olive during different growing phases?
Research shows that Thorny olive will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
Read More ![more]()
How can I keep Thorny olive warm in cold seasons?
Thorny olive can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
Read More ![more]()
What damage will Thorny olive suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Thorny olive if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Thorny olive gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Thorny olive gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
Read More ![more]()
What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Thorny olive?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Thorny olive healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
Read More ![more]()
How can I keep Thorny olive warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Thorny olive, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
Read More ![more]()
How can I provide Thorny olive with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Thorny olive in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Thorny olive is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
Read More ![more]()
How can I save Thorny olive from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Thorny olive extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
Read More ![more]()
Should I adjust the temperature for Thorny olive in different seasons?
Thorny olive is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
Read More ![more]()
Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Thorny olive?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Thorny olive in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
Read More ![more]()
Soil
Thorny olive shrub is highly adaptable to soil, and can survive and grow in various soil types. It grows as healthily in slightly acidic to alkaline soils, with the most proper pH value being between 6.0-7.5. It can adapt to drought and saline-alkali soil, but cannot tolerate waterlogging. The soil should have good drainage.
Propagation
Planting
Thorny olive shrub can propagate via semi-ripe cuttings, which usually takes place in the summer. Water the plant the night before you select the branches, pick robust new branches the next morning, and cut off 20 cm of them with a pair of sterilized gardening scissors. If there are flower buds on the branches, remove them all. If cuttage is not scheduled for that day, the branches can be wrapped in a wet towel and kept in the refrigerator.
On the day of cuttage, trim the length of the branches to 12 to 15 cm. Make sure the incisions are inclined, flat, and smooth, and apply a little rooting powder to them. The leaves and buds on the lower half of the branches should all be removed, and cut each remaining leaf on the upper halves in half. Mix sterilized peat and perlite at 1:1 ratio and place in a pot. Insert the branches 5 to 7 cm deep into the pot and keep them 20 cm apart from each other. Place the pot away from direct light and wind, and put transparent plastic film over the branches. Keep the soil moist not waterlogged, and transplant after roots sprout.
Propagation
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
When planting in the garden, choose a sufficiently sun-lit, elevated spot. Before planting, clean the soil thoroughly and remove the bigger rocks from the soil. Thorny olive shrub likes soil with good water drainage. If the drainage capacity is poor, it may help to mix fine sand into the soil. The depth of the planting pit should be the same as the height, and twice as wide, as the root ball. The soil surface should be level with the root collar (the juncture of the plant's trunk and root system). After planting, water sufficiently and cover the soil with 5 to 8 cm-thick organic mulch.
If thorny olive is to be planted in a pot, choose a big pot with good air permeability and drainage holes no less than 25 cm in diameter, so the root system has enough growing space. It may help to lay some bone meal on the bottom of the pot (don't mix with soil) and mix 1/5 perlite in the soil to increase drainage. After planting, add a 1 cm-thick layer of peat soil on top of the soil surface to help the soil keep moist.
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
The ideal season for transplanting thorny olive is during the refreshing transition from late winter to early spring or in the cozy late fall months. Choose a sunny or partially shady location for the best conditions, and remember to be gentle when handling these delicate roots. Happy gardening!
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Overwinter, etc.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
Thorny olive thrives in environments that receive full exposure to the sun's rays throughout the day, but can tolerate areas with a less generous supply of sunlight. Excessively shaded areas may impede its growth. Equally, overly constant and intense sun exposure could cause leaf scorching. Originating from habitats with abundant sunlight, it can withstand a diverse range of sun exposures.
Temperature
-10 38 ℃
As a thorny olive is native to temperate regions, it generally prefers temperatures between 59 to 95 ℉ (15 to 35 ℃). However, it can endure low temperatures down to 14℉ (-10℃), making it suitable for colder climates. During winter, it's best to protect the plant with a thick layer of mulch to prevent frost damage. In summer, the plant may need to be watered frequently to cool it down in temperatures above 85℉ (29℃).
Transplant
5-7 feet
The ideal season for transplanting thorny olive is during the refreshing transition from late winter to early spring or in the cozy late fall months. Choose a sunny or partially shady location for the best conditions, and remember to be gentle when handling these delicate roots. Happy gardening!
Overwinter
15 ℃
Originating from East Asia, thorny olive is built for cold, robust against winter hardships. The plant loses leaves gradually, an adaptation to reduce water loss. Despite this, thorny olive may need extra moisture, particularly if planted in drier climates. A layer of mulch helps protect its roots from hard freezes. Overall, thorny olive rewards a bit of winter care with year-round thick and glossy foliage; a testament to its sturdy nature and resilience.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Thorny olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
More About Thorny Olive
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
4 m
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
7 m
Name story
Thorny olive
This plant is a multi-branched shrub with strong invasive nature. However, due to its unique shape, it is widely cultivated and ornamented. Its greatest feature is that the stem is covered by thorns. Therefore, it is also known as thorny olive.
Usages
Garden Use
Thorny olive is a popular evergreen shrub prized for its dense foliage and red berries. It is commonly used as part of a hedge or a focal point in a large garden. It is an essential part of mixed hedge gardens. Plant it with holly or boxwood to add different textures.
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Common Problems
Why does my thorny olive shrub blossom but not fruit?
Improper light, temperature, moisture, and soil can all affect growth, causing a lack of fruition.
First, check the material of the pot or soil. Thorny olive shrub needs clay with good air permeability so the root system can breathe normally.
Next, make sure your thorny olive shrub gets enough light, isn't watered too much, and doesn't get too cold when blossoming.
Lastly, thorny olive shrub won't fruit if it hasn't been repotted in more than 3 years and/or its roots lack enough growing space.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. Branches ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. Stems ![trouble-image]()
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 2
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 3
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 4
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
show more ![show-more]()
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Thorny Olive
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
Download Thorny Olive
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
Plants with Same Care Needs
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Garden phlox
The garden phlox is a flowering plant that is native to the United States. The name, phlox, comes from the Latin for "flame," reflecting its bright colors. Garden phlox flowers can become important food sources for insects and hummingbirds.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Ground ivy
Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial evergreen trailing plant, often found in grasslands and woodlands. Saxon peoples once spread the plant, but it has become invasive in some parts of the world now. The fast-growing ground ivy can be toxic to horses but generally cannot harm other animals or humans.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
Persian silk tree
Albizia julibrissin, colloquially known as persian silk tree, is a deciduous plant with characteristic pink, fuzzy inflorescences. Persian silk tree is mainly cultivated for decorative purposes. Its flowers have a mild, sweet smell and are often visited by butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
View More Plants
Botanist in your pocket
App
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Logged in!
Botanist in your pocket
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
How to Care for Thorny Olive
Thorny olive (Elaeagnus pungens) is a flowering shrub native to Asia. Thorny olive is also commonly called silverthorn. In the United States, thorny olive is planted ornamentally in landscaping in the southeastern region. Thorny olive grows in variable temperate conditions, and it attracts birds.
Symbolism
Healing, Peace, Fertility
Every 1-2 weeks
Water ![Water detail]()
Full sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Basic Care Guide
Water
In the first year after planting, thorny olive seedlings need sufficient water. Water infiltrates down in well-drained soil and helps the seedling roots develop downwards. Usually, watering once a week in the spring and summer can keep 30 cm-deep soil moist. Watering can stop in the fall when the seedling moves into dormancy. Mature thorny olive is drought-resistant and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Thorny olive?
What should I do if I water my Thorny olive too much or too little?
How often should I water my Thorny olive?
How much water does my Thorny olive need?
Show More ![more]()
Fertilizer
Garden-planted thorny olive shrub doesn't require much fertilizing. Excessive fertilizing may even make the plant vulnerable to pests and diseases. In the winter, apply a small amount of compost organic manure, or slow-release shrub plant food, as instructed. Nutrients are often scarce in a pot, so apply a thin layer of organic fertilizers once every other month in the spring and PK fertilizer once in the fall to potted thorny olive.
Fertilizer
Show More
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Why do I need to fertilize my Thorny olive?
When is the best time to fertilize my Thorny olive?
When should I avoid fertilizing my Thorny olive?
What type of fertilizer does my Thorny olive need?
Show More ![more]()
Sunlight
Thorny olive shrub likes sufficient sunlight, but can also grow in slightly shady environments. It grows best in an open space with over 3 hours of sunlight daily. If light conditions are poor, it won't grow healthily. Shade it from direct sunlight in hot summers to avoid withering from the blazing sun.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Thorny olive get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
What type of sunlight does Thorny olive need?
Can sunlight damage Thorny olive? How to protect Thorny olive from the sun and heat damage?
Does Thorny olive need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Thorny olive from the sun?
Show More ![more]()
Pruning
Prune for shape in the spring and summer. Winter is the time to prune old, dried branches or trim poorly-growing plants to half of their original height, which helps promote the sprout of robust new branches the next spring. To prevent pests and diseases from invading the branch incisions through rainwater, don't prune on rainy days. Thorny olive branches are thorny, so wear thick gloves during pruning.
Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
plants of the Elaeagnus genus are distributed throughout temperate and subtropical zones. They like warm, moist environments and can tolerate temperatures down to -23 to 2 ℃. Mature thorny olive has strong heat-tolerant and drought-enduring capabilities and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
What is the optimal temperature for Thorny olive?
Should I adjust the temperature for Thorny olive during different growing phases?
How can I keep Thorny olive warm in cold seasons?
What damage will Thorny olive suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Show More ![more]()
Soil
Thorny olive shrub is highly adaptable to soil, and can survive and grow in various soil types. It grows as healthily in slightly acidic to alkaline soils, with the most proper pH value being between 6.0-7.5. It can adapt to drought and saline-alkali soil, but cannot tolerate waterlogging. The soil should have good drainage.
Propagation
Planting
Thorny olive shrub can propagate via semi-ripe cuttings, which usually takes place in the summer. Water the plant the night before you select the branches, pick robust new branches the next morning, and cut off 20 cm of them with a pair of sterilized gardening scissors. If there are flower buds on the branches, remove them all. If cuttage is not scheduled for that day, the branches can be wrapped in a wet towel and kept in the refrigerator.
On the day of cuttage, trim the length of the branches to 12 to 15 cm. Make sure the incisions are inclined, flat, and smooth, and apply a little rooting powder to them. The leaves and buds on the lower half of the branches should all be removed, and cut each remaining leaf on the upper halves in half. Mix sterilized peat and perlite at 1:1 ratio and place in a pot. Insert the branches 5 to 7 cm deep into the pot and keep them 20 cm apart from each other. Place the pot away from direct light and wind, and put transparent plastic film over the branches. Keep the soil moist not waterlogged, and transplant after roots sprout.
Propagation
Show More
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
When planting in the garden, choose a sufficiently sun-lit, elevated spot. Before planting, clean the soil thoroughly and remove the bigger rocks from the soil. Thorny olive shrub likes soil with good water drainage. If the drainage capacity is poor, it may help to mix fine sand into the soil. The depth of the planting pit should be the same as the height, and twice as wide, as the root ball. The soil surface should be level with the root collar (the juncture of the plant's trunk and root system). After planting, water sufficiently and cover the soil with 5 to 8 cm-thick organic mulch.
If thorny olive is to be planted in a pot, choose a big pot with good air permeability and drainage holes no less than 25 cm in diameter, so the root system has enough growing space. It may help to lay some bone meal on the bottom of the pot (don't mix with soil) and mix 1/5 perlite in the soil to increase drainage. After planting, add a 1 cm-thick layer of peat soil on top of the soil surface to help the soil keep moist.
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
The ideal season for transplanting thorny olive is during the refreshing transition from late winter to early spring or in the cozy late fall months. Choose a sunny or partially shady location for the best conditions, and remember to be gentle when handling these delicate roots. Happy gardening!
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Thorny olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
More About Thorny Olive
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
4 m
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
7 m
Name story
Thorny olive
This plant is a multi-branched shrub with strong invasive nature. However, due to its unique shape, it is widely cultivated and ornamented. Its greatest feature is that the stem is covered by thorns. Therefore, it is also known as thorny olive.
Usages
Garden Use
Thorny olive is a popular evergreen shrub prized for its dense foliage and red berries. It is commonly used as part of a hedge or a focal point in a large garden. It is an essential part of mixed hedge gardens. Plant it with holly or boxwood to add different textures.
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Common Problems
Why does my thorny olive shrub blossom but not fruit?
Improper light, temperature, moisture, and soil can all affect growth, causing a lack of fruition.
First, check the material of the pot or soil. Thorny olive shrub needs clay with good air permeability so the root system can breathe normally.
Next, make sure your thorny olive shrub gets enough light, isn't watered too much, and doesn't get too cold when blossoming.
Lastly, thorny olive shrub won't fruit if it hasn't been repotted in more than 3 years and/or its roots lack enough growing space.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. 
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. 
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Water
How Often Should I Water Thorny Olive?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
Download the App
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Thorny olive is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Thorny olive is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Thorny olive thrives in environments that receive full exposure to the sun's rays throughout the day, but can tolerate areas with a less generous supply of sunlight. Excessively shaded areas may impede its growth. Equally, overly constant and intense sun exposure could cause leaf scorching. Originating from habitats with abundant sunlight, it can withstand a diverse range of sun exposures.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
View more
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Thorny olive thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your thorny olive may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Thorny olive enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Thorny olive thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
As a thorny olive is native to temperate regions, it generally prefers temperatures between 59 to 95 ℉ (15 to 35 ℃). However, it can endure low temperatures down to 14℉ (-10℃), making it suitable for colder climates. During winter, it's best to protect the plant with a thick layer of mulch to prevent frost damage. In summer, the plant may need to be watered frequently to cool it down in temperatures above 85℉ (29℃).
Regional wintering strategies
Thorny olive has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Thorny olive is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Thorny olive should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Thorny Olive?
The ideal season for transplanting thorny olive is during the refreshing transition from late winter to early spring or in the cozy late fall months. Choose a sunny or partially shady location for the best conditions, and remember to be gentle when handling these delicate roots. Happy gardening!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Thorny Olive?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Thorny Olive?
Transplanting your thorny olive in the budding period of early to mid-spring or the dormancy of late fall to winter's end ensures optimal growth. Relocating thorny olive during these periods leverages seasonal shifts, as roots establish quickly in cooler, moist conditions while tops grow in warmer seasons. Transplanting thorny olive at this time brings you a year-round aesthetic appeal quickly. It's the perfect timing to give your thorny olive the best start!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Thorny Olive Plants?
To give your thorny olive plant adequate space, we suggest transplanting them with a spacing of about 5-7 ft (1.5-2.1 m) apart. This will provide ample room for growth and a lovely display in your garden!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Thorny Olive Transplanting?
For the best results, prepare your garden with well-draining, loamy soil. Add a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to ensure healthy growth of thorny olive plants. Giving your plants a great start goes a long way!
Where Should You Relocate Your Thorny Olive?
For your thorny olive plant, select a location that receives full sunlight to partial shade. Ideally, aim for a spot with 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will thrive and reward you with beautiful foliage!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Thorny Olive?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig holes and trenches, as well as remove the plant from its original location.
Trowel
For working with the soil in smaller and more precise areas.
Pruning Shears
To prune any damaged or dead stems and leaves after transplanting.
Watering Can or Hose
For watering the plant before and after transplanting.
Stakes or Supports (optional)
To provide support for the plant if needed during the establishment period.
How Do You Remove Thorny Olive from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Prep the planting hole by digging it twice the width and equal to the depth of the root ball. Mix some organic matter like compost or leaf mold into the removed soil to improve the soil structure.
Step2 Root Teasing
If the thorny olive plant is root-bound, gently tease apart the roots to encourage them to grow outward into the surrounding soil.
Step3 Placement
Place the thorny olive plant in the center of the hole, ensuring that its root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots outwards, making sure they are not circling the hole.
Step4 Backfilling
Backfill the hole with the previously removed and amended soil. Firmly press down on the soil to eliminate any air pockets, while taking care not to damage the roots or compact the soil too much.
Step5 Watering
After transplanting, water the thorny olive plant thoroughly to help settle the soil and establish initial root contact. Make sure to water the entire root zone, not just around the base of the stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Thorny Olive
Step1 Preparation
Prep the planting hole by digging it twice the width and equal to the depth of the root ball. Mix some organic matter like compost or leaf mold into the removed soil to improve the soil structure.
Step2 Root Teasing
If the thorny olive plant is root-bound, gently tease apart the roots to encourage them to grow outward into the surrounding soil.
Step3 Placement
Place the thorny olive plant in the center of the hole, ensuring that its root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots outwards, making sure they are not circling the hole.
Step4 Backfilling
Backfill the hole with the previously removed and amended soil. Firmly press down on the soil to eliminate any air pockets, while taking care not to damage the roots or compact the soil too much.
Step5 Watering
After transplanting, water the thorny olive plant thoroughly to help settle the soil and establish initial root contact. Make sure to water the entire root zone, not just around the base of the stem.
How Do You Care For Thorny Olive After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the thorny olive consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Remove any dead, damaged, or weak stems and leaves using pruning shears to promote healthy growth and minimize disease risk.
Staking (if needed)
If the thorny olive plant requires additional support, use stakes or supports in the early stages of establishment. Be careful not to damage the roots or stems while installing them.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the thorny olive plant for any signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing, or stunted growth. Adjust your care practices accordingly, and do not hesitate to consult more experienced gardeners or local experts if problems persist.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Thorny Olive Transplantation.
What's the best period to transplant thorny olive?
The optimal transplanting periods for thorny olive are early to mid-spring, or late fall to winter's end.
How much space should I leave between thorny olive plants?
Ensure thorny olive plants have a room to grow - space them about 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 meters) apart.
Why are the leaves on my transplanted thorny olive turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves could indicate insufficient water, too much sunlight, or a nutrient deficiency. Ensure your thorny olive is well-watered and receives suitable light.
How soon can I expect new growth after transplanting thorny olive?
Thorny olive generally tends to sprout new growth 2 to 3 weeks post-transplant, provided it's receiving ideal care and environmental conditions.
What kind of soil is best for transplanting thorny olive?
Thorny olive is adaptable to various soil types. As long as the soil drains well and isn’t overly wet, thorny olive should thrive.
Do I need to prune thorny olive when I transplant it?
Yes, pruning can be beneficial, especially for larger thorny olive plants. It helps to reduce transplant shock by balancing the root to top growth ratio.
Why is my newly transplanted thorny olive wilting?
Wilting is often a sign of transplant shock. Keep the plant adequately watered, avoid overexposure to sun, and wait patiently as root establishment can take time.
How deep should I plant a transplanted thorny olive?
Thorny olive should be planted to the same depth as it was in the previous container. Planting too deep can cause the stem to rot.
Can I transplant thorny olive in the summer?
It's best avoiding summer transplants because high heat can cause additional stress. Stick to early spring or fall to winter timeframes for optimal results.
Why aren't my transplanted thorny olive growing?
This could be due to improper planting depth, inadequate water or light, or unsuitable soil conditions. Check these factors and adjust accordingly to encourage growth.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
