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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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Pests & Diseases
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More Info
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FAQ

How to Care for Silverberries 'maculata'

Silverberries 'Maculata' is a robust, evergreen shrub recognized by its leathery, variegated leaves that sport a splash of yellow or gold at the center. The serrated foliage often inherits a silvery hue underneath, contributing to a luminous effect in any garden. Resilient against diverse conditions, silverberries 'Maculata' thrives in well-drained soils, attracting wildlife with fragrant, inconspicuous flowers followed by edible red berries.
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Silverberries 'Maculata'
Silverberries 'Maculata'
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Silverberries 'Maculata'?

In the first year after planting, silverberries 'Maculata' seedlings need sufficient water. Water infiltrates down in well-drained soil and helps the seedling roots develop downwards. Usually, watering once a week in the spring and summer can keep 30 cm-deep soil moist. Watering can stop in the fall when the seedling moves into dormancy. Mature silverberries 'Maculata' is drought-resistant and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Garden-planted silverberries 'Maculata' shrub doesn't require much fertilizing. Excessive fertilizing may even make the plant vulnerable to pests and diseases. In the winter, apply a small amount of compost organic manure, or slow-release shrub plant food, as instructed. Nutrients are often scarce in a pot, so apply a thin layer of organic fertilizers once every other month in the spring and PK fertilizer once in the fall to potted silverberries 'Maculata'.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub likes sufficient sunlight, but can also grow in slightly shady environments. It grows best in an open space with over 3 hours of sunlight daily. If light conditions are poor, it won't grow healthily. Shade it from direct sunlight in hot summers to avoid withering from the blazing sun.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Prune for shape in the spring and summer. Winter is the time to prune old, dried branches or trim poorly-growing plants to half of their original height, which helps promote the sprout of robust new branches the next spring. To prevent pests and diseases from invading the branch incisions through rainwater, don't prune on rainy days. Silverberries 'Maculata' branches are thorny, so wear thick gloves during pruning.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

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Feedback
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

plants of the Elaeagnus genus are distributed throughout temperate and subtropical zones. They like warm, moist environments and can tolerate temperatures down to -23 to 2 ℃. Mature silverberries 'Maculata' has strong heat-tolerant and drought-enduring capabilities and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub is highly adaptable to soil, and can survive and grow in various soil types. It grows as healthily in slightly acidic to alkaline soils, with the most proper pH value being between 6.0-7.5. It can adapt to drought and saline-alkali soil, but cannot tolerate waterlogging. The soil should have good drainage.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub can propagate via semi-ripe cuttings, which usually takes place in the summer. Water the plant the night before you select the branches, pick robust new branches the next morning, and cut off 20 cm of them with a pair of sterilized gardening scissors. If there are flower buds on the branches, remove them all. If cuttage is not scheduled for that day, the branches can be wrapped in a wet towel and kept in the refrigerator.
On the day of cuttage, trim the length of the branches to 12 to 15 cm. Make sure the incisions are inclined, flat, and smooth, and apply a little rooting powder to them. The leaves and buds on the lower half of the branches should all be removed, and cut each remaining leaf on the upper halves in half. Mix sterilized peat and perlite at 1:1 ratio and place in a pot. Insert the branches 5 to 7 cm deep into the pot and keep them 20 cm apart from each other. Place the pot away from direct light and wind, and put transparent plastic film over the branches. Keep the soil moist not waterlogged, and transplant after roots sprout.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Silverberries 'Maculata'?

When planting in the garden, choose a sufficiently sun-lit, elevated spot. Before planting, clean the soil thoroughly and remove the bigger rocks from the soil. Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub likes soil with good water drainage. If the drainage capacity is poor, it may help to mix fine sand into the soil. The depth of the planting pit should be the same as the height, and twice as wide, as the root ball. The soil surface should be level with the root collar (the juncture of the plant's trunk and root system). After planting, water sufficiently and cover the soil with 5 to 8 cm-thick organic mulch.
If silverberries 'Maculata' is to be planted in a pot, choose a big pot with good air permeability and drainage holes no less than 25 cm in diameter, so the root system has enough growing space. It may help to lay some bone meal on the bottom of the pot (don't mix with soil) and mix 1/5 perlite in the soil to increase drainage. After planting, add a 1 cm-thick layer of peat soil on top of the soil surface to help the soil keep moist.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

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Feedback
Common issues for Silverberries 'Maculata' based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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care_more_info

More About Silverberries 'maculata'

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Silver
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Yellow
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 m
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care_faq

Common Problems

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Why does my silverberries 'Maculata' shrub blossom but not fruit?

more more
Improper light, temperature, moisture, and soil can all affect growth, causing a lack of fruition.
First, check the material of the pot or soil. Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub needs clay with good air permeability so the root system can breathe normally.
Next, make sure your silverberries 'Maculata' shrub gets enough light, isn't watered too much, and doesn't get too cold when blossoming.
Lastly, silverberries 'Maculata' shrub won't fruit if it hasn't been repotted in more than 3 years and/or its roots lack enough growing space.
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Silverberries 'Maculata'
Silverberries 'Maculata'

How to Care for Silverberries 'maculata'

Silverberries 'Maculata' is a robust, evergreen shrub recognized by its leathery, variegated leaves that sport a splash of yellow or gold at the center. The serrated foliage often inherits a silvery hue underneath, contributing to a luminous effect in any garden. Resilient against diverse conditions, silverberries 'Maculata' thrives in well-drained soils, attracting wildlife with fragrant, inconspicuous flowers followed by edible red berries.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

feedback
Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
In the first year after planting, silverberries 'Maculata' seedlings need sufficient water. Water infiltrates down in well-drained soil and helps the seedling roots develop downwards. Usually, watering once a week in the spring and summer can keep 30 cm-deep soil moist. Watering can stop in the fall when the seedling moves into dormancy. Mature silverberries 'Maculata' is drought-resistant and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Garden-planted silverberries 'Maculata' shrub doesn't require much fertilizing. Excessive fertilizing may even make the plant vulnerable to pests and diseases. In the winter, apply a small amount of compost organic manure, or slow-release shrub plant food, as instructed. Nutrients are often scarce in a pot, so apply a thin layer of organic fertilizers once every other month in the spring and PK fertilizer once in the fall to potted silverberries 'Maculata'.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub likes sufficient sunlight, but can also grow in slightly shady environments. It grows best in an open space with over 3 hours of sunlight daily. If light conditions are poor, it won't grow healthily. Shade it from direct sunlight in hot summers to avoid withering from the blazing sun.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Prune for shape in the spring and summer. Winter is the time to prune old, dried branches or trim poorly-growing plants to half of their original height, which helps promote the sprout of robust new branches the next spring. To prevent pests and diseases from invading the branch incisions through rainwater, don't prune on rainy days. Silverberries 'Maculata' branches are thorny, so wear thick gloves during pruning.
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

feedback
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
plants of the Elaeagnus genus are distributed throughout temperate and subtropical zones. They like warm, moist environments and can tolerate temperatures down to -23 to 2 ℃. Mature silverberries 'Maculata' has strong heat-tolerant and drought-enduring capabilities and only needs watering in dry, hot summers.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub is highly adaptable to soil, and can survive and grow in various soil types. It grows as healthily in slightly acidic to alkaline soils, with the most proper pH value being between 6.0-7.5. It can adapt to drought and saline-alkali soil, but cannot tolerate waterlogging. The soil should have good drainage.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub can propagate via semi-ripe cuttings, which usually takes place in the summer. Water the plant the night before you select the branches, pick robust new branches the next morning, and cut off 20 cm of them with a pair of sterilized gardening scissors. If there are flower buds on the branches, remove them all. If cuttage is not scheduled for that day, the branches can be wrapped in a wet towel and kept in the refrigerator.
On the day of cuttage, trim the length of the branches to 12 to 15 cm. Make sure the incisions are inclined, flat, and smooth, and apply a little rooting powder to them. The leaves and buds on the lower half of the branches should all be removed, and cut each remaining leaf on the upper halves in half. Mix sterilized peat and perlite at 1:1 ratio and place in a pot. Insert the branches 5 to 7 cm deep into the pot and keep them 20 cm apart from each other. Place the pot away from direct light and wind, and put transparent plastic film over the branches. Keep the soil moist not waterlogged, and transplant after roots sprout.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Silverberries 'Maculata'?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting in the garden, choose a sufficiently sun-lit, elevated spot. Before planting, clean the soil thoroughly and remove the bigger rocks from the soil. Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub likes soil with good water drainage. If the drainage capacity is poor, it may help to mix fine sand into the soil. The depth of the planting pit should be the same as the height, and twice as wide, as the root ball. The soil surface should be level with the root collar (the juncture of the plant's trunk and root system). After planting, water sufficiently and cover the soil with 5 to 8 cm-thick organic mulch.
If silverberries 'Maculata' is to be planted in a pot, choose a big pot with good air permeability and drainage holes no less than 25 cm in diameter, so the root system has enough growing space. It may help to lay some bone meal on the bottom of the pot (don't mix with soil) and mix 1/5 perlite in the soil to increase drainage. After planting, add a 1 cm-thick layer of peat soil on top of the soil surface to help the soil keep moist.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

feedback
Common issues for Silverberries 'Maculata' based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More About the Plant dried up more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Silverberries 'maculata'

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Silver
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Yellow
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
4 m
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Common Problems

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Why does my silverberries 'Maculata' shrub blossom but not fruit?

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Improper light, temperature, moisture, and soil can all affect growth, causing a lack of fruition.
First, check the material of the pot or soil. Silverberries 'Maculata' shrub needs clay with good air permeability so the root system can breathe normally.
Next, make sure your silverberries 'Maculata' shrub gets enough light, isn't watered too much, and doesn't get too cold when blossoming.
Lastly, silverberries 'Maculata' shrub won't fruit if it hasn't been repotted in more than 3 years and/or its roots lack enough growing space.
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