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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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More Info
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FAQ

How to Care for Pincushion Euphorbia

Pincushion euphorbia is a fascinating succulent with striking architectural features that make it a popular addition to rock gardens and drought-tolerant landscapes. It has thick, spiky leaves that resemble cactus spines and clusters of small, greenish-yellow flowers that bloom in the summer. This plant has been used in traditional medicine. However, it's important to note that it contains toxic latex, which can cause skin irritation and even blindness if ingested. Its unique appearance and hardiness make it a standout plant in any collection.
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Pincushion euphorbia
Pincushion euphorbia
Pincushion euphorbia
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Pincushion euphorbia?

Pincushion euphorbia needs regular watering about once a week, especially during growing seasons. The plants don’t need great amounts of water during temperate environmental conditions, but during hot summer days they need as much water as any other plant. Pincushion euphorbia needs to be watered when the planting medium is dry for 5 cm at the surface. Those grown in indoor environments also need a sufficient amount of moisture during the resting season. To avoid excess moisture in the medium, it is best if small amounts of water are added from below.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Pincushion euphorbia?

Pincushion euphorbia doesn’t require large amounts of fertilizer for normal growth and development. In fact, very little fertilizer is required. As mentioned earlier, some species can thrive even in very poor soils, as long as those soils are well drained. Fertilizer should only be applied when the plants start showing nutrient deficiency symptoms on lower leaves. When the lower leaves turn yellow, it is time to add half-strength liquid fertilizer to the soil. That will keep the plant well fed for several months.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Pincushion euphorbia?

Spurges naturally grow in places that have plenty of sunlight, but some species can tolerate partial shade (e. g., Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae). Full sun provides the best environment for spurges. If they are grown indoors, spurges need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day for proper development.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Pincushion euphorbia?

In early spring, if there are any damaged stems, they need to be removed to keep the plants healthy and to optimize their nutrient management. It is advised to cut back a certain number of stems after blooming in order to stimulate consistent flowering and growth of new foliage. When cutting a stem, cut at the stem’s base. It is very important to use gloves while handling and pruning pincushion euphorbia, because their tissues contain milky-white latex sap which is poisonous and can irritate the skin.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Pincushion euphorbia?

Genus Euphorbia is very large and diverse, so its different species can be found in various habitats, but the majority are well-adapted to a temperature range of -29 to 4 ℃. Many spurges, in spite of having succulent leaves, cannot handle long periods without moisture and need to be watered weekly during hot summer days. Some cactus-like species are well adapted to high temperatures and prolonged dry periods, but most species used for landscaping and decorative gardening require more moisture for proper development.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Pincushion euphorbia?

Spurges aren’t picky when it comes to soil type. They can grow in a variety of soils. Some species of Euphorbia can even thrive in nutrient-poor soils, requiring only that the soil be well drained. If the soil is full of moisture and is prone to water retention, it will most likely cause root rot.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Pincushion euphorbia?

Pincushion euphorbia can be successfully grown from seeds, but the seeds are rarely commercially available because they are difficult to germinate and stay viable only for a short period of time. Pincushion euphorbia is most commonly propagated via cuttings.
It is important to wear gloves while working with pincushion euphorbia cuttings and to clean the pruning shears thoroughly after pruning, so that any unwanted contact with the sap is avoided. Before planting, it is necessary to leave the cuttings to dry for 2-3 days. This will prevent rot from developing and enable proper formation of the callus tissue. It is advised to plant the cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat moss, because it provides an optimal environmental for proper root development.
Cuttings should be misted regularly, and the pots in which they are planted need to be wrapped in either foil or a plastic bag to preserve moisture. The bag or foil needs to be removed for two hours each day to provide sufficient air and to prevent excess moisture in the medium. If this step is skipped, molds and rots can easily develop and damage the health of the young, sensitive cuttings. When the cuttings develop a root system, they are ready to be transplanted into soil.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Pincushion euphorbia?

Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball before planting. Then, turn the container with pincushion euphorbia upside down and let the plant slowly fall into your hands. Place the plant upright in the hole and slowly fill in around the roots with loose and fertile potting mixture, adjusting the planting depth until it is just right. Water it once. Do not overwater, as standing water is not good for the plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Pincushion euphorbia?

Some species of Euphorbia can be cut for fresh flowers or foliage, such as snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Euphorbia fulgens and Euphorbiaformosana. When harvesting cuttings, remember to wear gloves, as the sap can be irritating to the skin. It can be cut from the base of the stem. Soak the end of the cutting in hot water for 10 seconds to stop the milky sap from oozing. The vase life of for the cutting will be about 5-7 days, and some flower food can extend its life.
When the fruits of Euphorbia plants are ripe, they burst and scatter the seeds over a large surface area. In order to harvest all the seeds, the individual fruits or the entire plant must be wrapped in in nylon, gauze, or similar material before the ripe fruit bursts and releases the seeds.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
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More Info on Pincushion Euphorbia Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Lighting
Full sun
Temperature
0 43 ℃
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Pincushion euphorbia based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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More About Pincushion Euphorbia

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Green
Red
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Common Problems

Where should pincushion euphorbia be planted the garden?

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The best place for pincushion euphorbia in the garden is a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil.

Are the roots of spurges invasive?

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Most spurges don’t have a tendency towards invasiveness. Species that are commonly used in landscaping and decorative gardening are not invasive. There are some exceptions, though. Leafy spurge (E. esula) is considered to be a very invasive species in Northern America. Its roots and rhizomes are very strong and persistent. Leafy spurge presents a great problem, because it competes with other plants wherever it grows, causing reduced diversity of plant species in the area.

Why won’t my pincushion euphorbia blossom?

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If pincushion euphorbia has trouble blossoming, it can be due to a lack of sunlight, water, or nutrients. Optimal environmental conditions must be provided, since they are crucial to flowering. If the plants are grown indoors, they should be placed in a spot that gets a lot of sun, as they require at least 6 hours of full light exposure every day.

When does pincushion euphorbia need to be pruned?

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Pincushion euphorbia should be pruned after blossoming. This ensures that the growth of new flowers and leaves is constant and well distributed. A little pruning can be also done in early spring in order to remove any wilted or dry leaves.

How to save a dying pincushion euphorbia?

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Pincushion euphorbia grows into a very healthy plant with very little care, which makes them an excellent choice for novice gardeners. There are a limited number of problems that pincushion euphorbia encounters, so if anything goes wrong, it will be easy to narrow down the cause. If a pincushion euphorbia seems like it is dying, it is probably due to root rot which is progressing into the upper parts of the plant. This problem can be solved only if the rot is in early stages.
It is recommended to remove any infected parts of the plant. Depending on the severity of infection, that may include removing only a part of the root, the whole root, or even some upper parts of the plant. The unaffected parts can be left to dry for a few days and form callus tissue, and then they can be planted in the medium to develop roots and grow into new plants.

Do the flowers of pincushion euphorbia have an aroma? Is the aroma poisonous?

more more
Pincushion euphorbia flowers do not have a strong scent. The flower’s aroma is very bitter, because like the other parts of the plant, the flowers contain poisonous latex sap. The sap can cause irritation if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes, and it is very harmful if it is ingested.
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Pests & Diseases
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Pincushion euphorbia
Pincushion euphorbia
Pincushion euphorbia

How to Care for Pincushion Euphorbia

Pincushion euphorbia is a fascinating succulent with striking architectural features that make it a popular addition to rock gardens and drought-tolerant landscapes. It has thick, spiky leaves that resemble cactus spines and clusters of small, greenish-yellow flowers that bloom in the summer. This plant has been used in traditional medicine. However, it's important to note that it contains toxic latex, which can cause skin irritation and even blindness if ingested. Its unique appearance and hardiness make it a standout plant in any collection.
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Pincushion euphorbia needs regular watering about once a week, especially during growing seasons. The plants don’t need great amounts of water during temperate environmental conditions, but during hot summer days they need as much water as any other plant. Pincushion euphorbia needs to be watered when the planting medium is dry for 5 cm at the surface. Those grown in indoor environments also need a sufficient amount of moisture during the resting season. To avoid excess moisture in the medium, it is best if small amounts of water are added from below.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Pincushion euphorbia doesn’t require large amounts of fertilizer for normal growth and development. In fact, very little fertilizer is required. As mentioned earlier, some species can thrive even in very poor soils, as long as those soils are well drained. Fertilizer should only be applied when the plants start showing nutrient deficiency symptoms on lower leaves. When the lower leaves turn yellow, it is time to add half-strength liquid fertilizer to the soil. That will keep the plant well fed for several months.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Spurges naturally grow in places that have plenty of sunlight, but some species can tolerate partial shade (e. g., Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae). Full sun provides the best environment for spurges. If they are grown indoors, spurges need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day for proper development.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In early spring, if there are any damaged stems, they need to be removed to keep the plants healthy and to optimize their nutrient management. It is advised to cut back a certain number of stems after blooming in order to stimulate consistent flowering and growth of new foliage. When cutting a stem, cut at the stem’s base. It is very important to use gloves while handling and pruning pincushion euphorbia, because their tissues contain milky-white latex sap which is poisonous and can irritate the skin.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Genus Euphorbia is very large and diverse, so its different species can be found in various habitats, but the majority are well-adapted to a temperature range of -29 to 4 ℃. Many spurges, in spite of having succulent leaves, cannot handle long periods without moisture and need to be watered weekly during hot summer days. Some cactus-like species are well adapted to high temperatures and prolonged dry periods, but most species used for landscaping and decorative gardening require more moisture for proper development.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Spurges aren’t picky when it comes to soil type. They can grow in a variety of soils. Some species of Euphorbia can even thrive in nutrient-poor soils, requiring only that the soil be well drained. If the soil is full of moisture and is prone to water retention, it will most likely cause root rot.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Pincushion euphorbia can be successfully grown from seeds, but the seeds are rarely commercially available because they are difficult to germinate and stay viable only for a short period of time. Pincushion euphorbia is most commonly propagated via cuttings.
It is important to wear gloves while working with pincushion euphorbia cuttings and to clean the pruning shears thoroughly after pruning, so that any unwanted contact with the sap is avoided. Before planting, it is necessary to leave the cuttings to dry for 2-3 days. This will prevent rot from developing and enable proper formation of the callus tissue. It is advised to plant the cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat moss, because it provides an optimal environmental for proper root development.
Cuttings should be misted regularly, and the pots in which they are planted need to be wrapped in either foil or a plastic bag to preserve moisture. The bag or foil needs to be removed for two hours each day to provide sufficient air and to prevent excess moisture in the medium. If this step is skipped, molds and rots can easily develop and damage the health of the young, sensitive cuttings. When the cuttings develop a root system, they are ready to be transplanted into soil.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball before planting. Then, turn the container with pincushion euphorbia upside down and let the plant slowly fall into your hands. Place the plant upright in the hole and slowly fill in around the roots with loose and fertile potting mixture, adjusting the planting depth until it is just right. Water it once. Do not overwater, as standing water is not good for the plant.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Pincushion euphorbia?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Some species of Euphorbia can be cut for fresh flowers or foliage, such as snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Euphorbia fulgens and Euphorbiaformosana. When harvesting cuttings, remember to wear gloves, as the sap can be irritating to the skin. It can be cut from the base of the stem. Soak the end of the cutting in hot water for 10 seconds to stop the milky sap from oozing. The vase life of for the cutting will be about 5-7 days, and some flower food can extend its life.
When the fruits of Euphorbia plants are ripe, they burst and scatter the seeds over a large surface area. In order to harvest all the seeds, the individual fruits or the entire plant must be wrapped in in nylon, gauze, or similar material before the ripe fruit bursts and releases the seeds.
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More Info on Pincushion Euphorbia Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Pincushion euphorbia based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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More About Pincushion Euphorbia

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Green
Red
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Common Problems

Where should pincushion euphorbia be planted the garden?

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The best place for pincushion euphorbia in the garden is a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil.

Are the roots of spurges invasive?

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Most spurges don’t have a tendency towards invasiveness. Species that are commonly used in landscaping and decorative gardening are not invasive. There are some exceptions, though. Leafy spurge (E. esula) is considered to be a very invasive species in Northern America. Its roots and rhizomes are very strong and persistent. Leafy spurge presents a great problem, because it competes with other plants wherever it grows, causing reduced diversity of plant species in the area.

Why won’t my pincushion euphorbia blossom?

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If pincushion euphorbia has trouble blossoming, it can be due to a lack of sunlight, water, or nutrients. Optimal environmental conditions must be provided, since they are crucial to flowering. If the plants are grown indoors, they should be placed in a spot that gets a lot of sun, as they require at least 6 hours of full light exposure every day.

When does pincushion euphorbia need to be pruned?

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Pincushion euphorbia should be pruned after blossoming. This ensures that the growth of new flowers and leaves is constant and well distributed. A little pruning can be also done in early spring in order to remove any wilted or dry leaves.

How to save a dying pincushion euphorbia?

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Pincushion euphorbia grows into a very healthy plant with very little care, which makes them an excellent choice for novice gardeners. There are a limited number of problems that pincushion euphorbia encounters, so if anything goes wrong, it will be easy to narrow down the cause. If a pincushion euphorbia seems like it is dying, it is probably due to root rot which is progressing into the upper parts of the plant. This problem can be solved only if the rot is in early stages.
It is recommended to remove any infected parts of the plant. Depending on the severity of infection, that may include removing only a part of the root, the whole root, or even some upper parts of the plant. The unaffected parts can be left to dry for a few days and form callus tissue, and then they can be planted in the medium to develop roots and grow into new plants.

Do the flowers of pincushion euphorbia have an aroma? Is the aroma poisonous?

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Pincushion euphorbia flowers do not have a strong scent. The flower’s aroma is very bitter, because like the other parts of the plant, the flowers contain poisonous latex sap. The sap can cause irritation if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes, and it is very harmful if it is ingested.
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Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
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_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
_pta PictureThis Analytics We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_ga
Source
Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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