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FAQ

How to Care for Snow-on-the-mountain

Snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata) is a plant species that often grows where other plants cannot survive. Snow-on-the-mountain thrives in dark, shady places and provides a ground cover. Its ground cover is distinctive due to its leaves, which can be white, light yellow, or a variegated combination. These leaves, when added to the white flowers, create an appearance of snow that gives the plant its name.
symbolism

Symbolism

Purification, Protection, Persistence
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Toxic to Humans
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Snow-on-the-mountain?

Snow-on-the-mountain needs regular watering about once a week, especially during growing seasons. The plants don’t need great amounts of water during temperate environmental conditions, but during hot summer days they need as much water as any other plant. Snow-on-the-mountain needs to be watered when the planting medium is dry for 5 cm at the surface. Those grown in indoor environments also need a sufficient amount of moisture during the resting season. To avoid excess moisture in the medium, it is best if small amounts of water are added from below.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Snow-on-the-mountain?
To water Snow-on-the-mountain, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Snow-on-the-mountain is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Snow-on-the-mountain as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Snow-on-the-mountain that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Snow-on-the-mountain, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.
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What should I do if I water my Snow-on-the-mountain too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Snow-on-the-mountain is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Snow-on-the-mountain is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Snow-on-the-mountain that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Snow-on-the-mountain, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Snow-on-the-mountain needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Snow-on-the-mountain. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Snow-on-the-mountain grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Snow-on-the-mountain that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Snow-on-the-mountain a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Snow-on-the-mountain need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Snow-on-the-mountain. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Snow-on-the-mountain. Typically, you should give your Snow-on-the-mountain about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Snow-on-the-mountain in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Snow-on-the-mountain enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Snow-on-the-mountain. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Snow-on-the-mountain are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Snow-on-the-mountain may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Snow-on-the-mountain as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Snow-on-the-mountain through the seasons?
You can expect your Snow-on-the-mountain’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Snow-on-the-mountain, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Snow-on-the-mountain that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Snow-on-the-mountain is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Snow-on-the-mountain at different growth stages?
Snow-on-the-mountain will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Snow-on-the-mountain as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Snow-on-the-mountain will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Snow-on-the-mountain will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Snow-on-the-mountain indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Snow-on-the-mountain grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Snow-on-the-mountain needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Snow-on-the-mountain water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Snow-on-the-mountain?

Snow-on-the-mountain doesn’t require large amounts of fertilizer for normal growth and development. In fact, very little fertilizer is required. As mentioned earlier, some species can thrive even in very poor soils, as long as those soils are well drained. Fertilizer should only be applied when the plants start showing nutrient deficiency symptoms on lower leaves. When the lower leaves turn yellow, it is time to add half-strength liquid fertilizer to the soil. That will keep the plant well fed for several months.

Fertilizer

Snow-on-the-mountain is grown for its attractive foliage. It does best when it is grown in a rich potting mix with a neutral pH level. If the soil is rich enough, it may not be necessary to provide any extra nutrients in the form of fertilizer. However, this plant can benefit from frequent, weak doses of fertilizer to keep leaves growing well. And, if you want your Snow-on-the-mountain to produce move leaves, you will need to provide both sufficient fertilizer and a lot of moisture.
All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Snow-on-the-mountain, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes. Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Snow-on-the-mountain to get enough nitrogen from the soil , which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Snow-on-the-mountain with a source of nitrogen.
Snow-on-the-mountain generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Snow-on-the-mountain about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients.You’ll know when to start fertilizing Snow-on-the-mountain if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.
A balanced fertilizer works well for Snow-on-the-mountain, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Snow-on-the-mountain. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant. Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Snow-on-the-mountain. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant. Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil.
Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Snow-on-the-mountain, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Snow-on-the-mountain and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.
Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves. Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Snow-on-the-mountain. If the Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly. If your Snow-on-the-mountain is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.
Never fertilize your Snow-on-the-mountain if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants. Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Snow-on-the-mountain?
All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Snow-on-the-mountain, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes.
Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Snow-on-the-mountain to get enough nitrogen from the soil, which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Snow-on-the-mountain with a source of nitrogen.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Snow-on-the-mountain generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Snow-on-the-mountain about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients.
You’ll know when to start fertilizing Snow-on-the-mountain if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Never fertilize your Snow-on-the-mountain if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants.
Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Snow-on-the-mountain need?
Fertilizers contain high levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, along with other essential nutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. These are all necessary elements that promote growth in Snow-on-the-mountain.
A balanced fertilizer works well for Snow-on-the-mountain, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Snow-on-the-mountain. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Snow-on-the-mountain. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant.
Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil.
Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Snow-on-the-mountain, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Snow-on-the-mountain and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Snow-on-the-mountain too much?
Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves.
Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Snow-on-the-mountain. If the Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly.
If your Snow-on-the-mountain is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Spurges naturally grow in places that have plenty of sunlight, but some species can tolerate partial shade (e. g., Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae). Full sun provides the best environment for spurges. If they are grown indoors, spurges need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day for proper development.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight should Snow-on-the-mountain get per day to grow healthily?
You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Snow-on-the-mountain needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.
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What type of sunlight does Snow-on-the-mountain need?
The Snow-on-the-mountain grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months.
They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Snow-on-the-mountain is always exposed to the sun.
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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Snow-on-the-mountain from sun and heat damage?
When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Snow-on-the-mountain can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter.
If the Snow-on-the-mountain is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers.
It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Snow-on-the-mountain is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.
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Should I protect Snow-on-the-mountain from sun exposure?
The Snow-on-the-mountain does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall.
Growing the Snow-on-the-mountain in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.
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What will happen if Snow-on-the-mountain gets inadequate sunlight?
When the Snow-on-the-mountain does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade.
Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones.
The Snow-on-the-mountain indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.
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Does Snow-on-the-mountain need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
When the Snow-on-the-mountain is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.
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How much light does Snow-on-the-mountain need for photosynthesis?
During summer or late spring, the Snow-on-the-mountain needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Snow-on-the-mountain is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Snow-on-the-mountain?
When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Snow-on-the-mountain to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day.
Make sure that the Snow-on-the-mountain receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Snow-on-the-mountain?

In early spring, if there are any damaged stems, they need to be removed to keep the plants healthy and to optimize their nutrient management. It is advised to cut back a certain number of stems after blooming in order to stimulate consistent flowering and growth of new foliage. When cutting a stem, cut at the stem’s base. It is very important to use gloves while handling and pruning snow-on-the-mountain, because their tissues contain milky-white latex sap which is poisonous and can irritate the skin.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Snow-on-the-mountain is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Snow-on-the-mountain to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Snow-on-the-mountain?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Snow-on-the-mountain above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Snow-on-the-mountain leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Snow-on-the-mountain?
  1. Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
  2. Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
  3. Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Snow-on-the-mountain?
Expect to prune your Snow-on-the-mountain every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Snow-on-the-mountain in different seasons?
Because Snow-on-the-mountain is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Genus Euphorbia is very large and diverse, so its different species can be found in various habitats, but the majority are well-adapted to a temperature range of -29 to 4 ℃. Many spurges, in spite of having succulent leaves, cannot handle long periods without moisture and need to be watered weekly during hot summer days. Some cactus-like species are well adapted to high temperatures and prolonged dry periods, but most species used for landscaping and decorative gardening require more moisture for proper development.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Snow-on-the-mountain?
The best temperature for Snow-on-the-mountain depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Snow-on-the-mountain has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Snow-on-the-mountain may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Snow-on-the-mountain will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Snow-on-the-mountain. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Snow-on-the-mountain to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Snow-on-the-mountain
If this is the first year of your Snow-on-the-mountain outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Snow-on-the-mountain, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Snow-on-the-mountain inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Snow-on-the-mountain in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Snow-on-the-mountain should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Snow-on-the-mountain from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Snow-on-the-mountain from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Snow-on-the-mountain in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Snow-on-the-mountain is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Snow-on-the-mountain to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Snow-on-the-mountain
During the cold winter months, Snow-on-the-mountain needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Snow-on-the-mountain, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Snow-on-the-mountain. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Snow-on-the-mountain will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Spurges aren’t picky when it comes to soil type. They can grow in a variety of soils. Some species of Euphorbia can even thrive in nutrient-poor soils, requiring only that the soil be well drained. If the soil is full of moisture and is prone to water retention, it will most likely cause root rot.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Snow-on-the-mountain?

Snow-on-the-mountain can be successfully grown from seeds, but the seeds are rarely commercially available because they are difficult to germinate and stay viable only for a short period of time. Snow-on-the-mountain is most commonly propagated via cuttings.
It is important to wear gloves while working with snow-on-the-mountain cuttings and to clean the pruning shears thoroughly after pruning, so that any unwanted contact with the sap is avoided. Before planting, it is necessary to leave the cuttings to dry for 2-3 days. This will prevent rot from developing and enable proper formation of the callus tissue. It is advised to plant the cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat moss, because it provides an optimal environmental for proper root development.
Cuttings should be misted regularly, and the pots in which they are planted need to be wrapped in either foil or a plastic bag to preserve moisture. The bag or foil needs to be removed for two hours each day to provide sufficient air and to prevent excess moisture in the medium. If this step is skipped, molds and rots can easily develop and damage the health of the young, sensitive cuttings. When the cuttings develop a root system, they are ready to be transplanted into soil.

Propagation

Only sow Snow-on-the-mountain seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Snow-on-the-mountain in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Snow-on-the-mountain?

Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball before planting. Then, turn the container with snow-on-the-mountain upside down and let the plant slowly fall into your hands. Place the plant upright in the hole and slowly fill in around the roots with loose and fertile potting mixture, adjusting the planting depth until it is just right. Water it once. Do not overwater, as standing water is not good for the plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Snow-on-the-mountain?

Some species of Euphorbia can be cut for fresh flowers or foliage, such as snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Euphorbia fulgens and Euphorbiaformosana. When harvesting cuttings, remember to wear gloves, as the sap can be irritating to the skin. It can be cut from the base of the stem. Soak the end of the cutting in hot water for 10 seconds to stop the milky sap from oozing. The vase life of for the cutting will be about 5-7 days, and some flower food can extend its life.
When the fruits of Euphorbia plants are ripe, they burst and scatter the seeds over a large surface area. In order to harvest all the seeds, the individual fruits or the entire plant must be wrapped in in nylon, gauze, or similar material before the ripe fruit bursts and releases the seeds.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Snow-on-the-mountain?

For snow-on-the-mountain, the perfect season for transplanting is early spring (S1), when the soil is just beginning to warm up. This plant prefers fully sunlit locations with drained soil. Always remember, patience and gentleness during transplantation are key because they help maintain root structure integrity.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Snow-on-the-mountain Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Snow-on-the-mountain flourishes when the day's arc is overpowering, yet tolerates intervals where sun rays are filtered. Over time, chronically concealed regions result in inadequate growth, while overexposure may lead to burnt foliage. A suitable origin for its propagation corresponds to settings with profuse solar exposure.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Snow-on-the-mountain is indigenous to temperate climates, with an optimal growth temperature range from 68 to 100.4°F (20 to 38℃). Depending on seasons, adjustments may be necessary to maintain this temperature spectrum.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
For snow-on-the-mountain, the perfect season for transplanting is early spring (S1), when the soil is just beginning to warm up. This plant prefers fully sunlit locations with drained soil. Always remember, patience and gentleness during transplantation are key because they help maintain root structure integrity.
Transplant Techniques
Toxic
Highly Toxic to Humans
Snow-on-the-mountain is a mildly toxic plant if eaten either fresh or dried. All parts of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and flowers contain a toxic milky, white sap. If the sap comes into contact with skin, redness, swelling, itching, and occasional blisters are common. Individuals prone to allergies may experience more severe symptoms. The sap will also irritate the eyes, nose, and mouth. Burning sensations in the eyes and blurry vision are common, along with sores in the nose and mouth. Ingesting the plant is rarely fatal, but abdominal distress is common. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are common side effects.
Toxic Details
Feng shui direction
South
Snow-on-the-mountain harmonizes well with Southern facing locations, owing to its illustrious white blooms that represent purity and integrity in Feng Shui. This said, it's crucial to understand that the plant's compatibility might change nuancedly upon personal energies and varying environments.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

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1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.
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3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.

This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

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1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.
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2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.
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3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.
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4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.
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5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.

As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

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1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.
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2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.
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3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.
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4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.

Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

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1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.
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Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Snow-on-the-mountain based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Fruit withering
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
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care_toxicity

Snow-on-the-mountain and Their Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
Snow-on-the-mountain is a mildly toxic plant if eaten either fresh or dried. All parts of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and flowers contain a toxic milky, white sap. If the sap comes into contact with skin, redness, swelling, itching, and occasional blisters are common. Individuals prone to allergies may experience more severe symptoms. The sap will also irritate the eyes, nose, and mouth. Burning sensations in the eyes and blurry vision are common, along with sores in the nose and mouth. Ingesting the plant is rarely fatal, but abdominal distress is common. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are common side effects.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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care_more_info

More About Snow-on-the-mountain

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial, Perennial
Spread
Spread
20 to 30 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
White
Variegated
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 to 80 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Grown primarily for its showy foliage and bushy growth habit, snow-on-the-mountain is a refreshing focal point in flower beds and borders. It fits well into city and courtyard gardens, cottage gardens, and informal gardens. Due to its shrubby growth, it can create annual wall side borders and is also an interesting addition to cutting gardens (just beware of its poisonous sap if cutting).
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Common Problems

Where should snow-on-the-mountain be planted the garden?

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The best place for snow-on-the-mountain in the garden is a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil.

Are the roots of spurges invasive?

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Most spurges don’t have a tendency towards invasiveness. Species that are commonly used in landscaping and decorative gardening are not invasive. There are some exceptions, though. Leafy spurge (E. esula) is considered to be a very invasive species in Northern America. Its roots and rhizomes are very strong and persistent. Leafy spurge presents a great problem, because it competes with other plants wherever it grows, causing reduced diversity of plant species in the area.

Why won’t my snow-on-the-mountain blossom?

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If snow-on-the-mountain has trouble blossoming, it can be due to a lack of sunlight, water, or nutrients. Optimal environmental conditions must be provided, since they are crucial to flowering. If the plants are grown indoors, they should be placed in a spot that gets a lot of sun, as they require at least 6 hours of full light exposure every day.

When does snow-on-the-mountain need to be pruned?

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Snow-on-the-mountain should be pruned after blossoming. This ensures that the growth of new flowers and leaves is constant and well distributed. A little pruning can be also done in early spring in order to remove any wilted or dry leaves.

How to save a dying snow-on-the-mountain?

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Snow-on-the-mountain grows into a very healthy plant with very little care, which makes them an excellent choice for novice gardeners. There are a limited number of problems that snow-on-the-mountain encounters, so if anything goes wrong, it will be easy to narrow down the cause. If a snow-on-the-mountain seems like it is dying, it is probably due to root rot which is progressing into the upper parts of the plant. This problem can be solved only if the rot is in early stages.
It is recommended to remove any infected parts of the plant. Depending on the severity of infection, that may include removing only a part of the root, the whole root, or even some upper parts of the plant. The unaffected parts can be left to dry for a few days and form callus tissue, and then they can be planted in the medium to develop roots and grow into new plants.

Do the flowers of snow-on-the-mountain have an aroma? Is the aroma poisonous?

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Snow-on-the-mountain flowers do not have a strong scent. The flower’s aroma is very bitter, because like the other parts of the plant, the flowers contain poisonous latex sap. The sap can cause irritation if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes, and it is very harmful if it is ingested.
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About
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Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain
Snow-on-the-mountain

How to Care for Snow-on-the-mountain

Snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata) is a plant species that often grows where other plants cannot survive. Snow-on-the-mountain thrives in dark, shady places and provides a ground cover. Its ground cover is distinctive due to its leaves, which can be white, light yellow, or a variegated combination. These leaves, when added to the white flowers, create an appearance of snow that gives the plant its name.
symbolism

Symbolism

Purification, Protection, Persistence
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Humans
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Snow-on-the-mountain needs regular watering about once a week, especially during growing seasons. The plants don’t need great amounts of water during temperate environmental conditions, but during hot summer days they need as much water as any other plant. Snow-on-the-mountain needs to be watered when the planting medium is dry for 5 cm at the surface. Those grown in indoor environments also need a sufficient amount of moisture during the resting season. To avoid excess moisture in the medium, it is best if small amounts of water are added from below.
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What is the best way to water my Snow-on-the-mountain?
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Snow-on-the-mountain doesn’t require large amounts of fertilizer for normal growth and development. In fact, very little fertilizer is required. As mentioned earlier, some species can thrive even in very poor soils, as long as those soils are well drained. Fertilizer should only be applied when the plants start showing nutrient deficiency symptoms on lower leaves. When the lower leaves turn yellow, it is time to add half-strength liquid fertilizer to the soil. That will keep the plant well fed for several months.
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Fertilizer

Snow-on-the-mountain is grown for its attractive foliage. It does best when it is grown in a rich potting mix with a neutral pH level. If the soil is rich enough, it may not be necessary to provide any extra nutrients in the form of fertilizer. However, this plant can benefit from frequent, weak doses of fertilizer to keep leaves growing well. And, if you want your Snow-on-the-mountain to produce move leaves, you will need to provide both sufficient fertilizer and a lot of moisture.
All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Snow-on-the-mountain, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes. Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Snow-on-the-mountain to get enough nitrogen from the soil , which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Snow-on-the-mountain with a source of nitrogen.
Snow-on-the-mountain generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Snow-on-the-mountain about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients.You’ll know when to start fertilizing Snow-on-the-mountain if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.
A balanced fertilizer works well for Snow-on-the-mountain, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Snow-on-the-mountain. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant. Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Snow-on-the-mountain. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant. Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil.
Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Snow-on-the-mountain, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Snow-on-the-mountain and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.
Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves. Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Snow-on-the-mountain. If the Snow-on-the-mountain is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly. If your Snow-on-the-mountain is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.
Never fertilize your Snow-on-the-mountain if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants. Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Spurges naturally grow in places that have plenty of sunlight, but some species can tolerate partial shade (e. g., Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae). Full sun provides the best environment for spurges. If they are grown indoors, spurges need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day for proper development.
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What type of sunlight does Snow-on-the-mountain need?
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In early spring, if there are any damaged stems, they need to be removed to keep the plants healthy and to optimize their nutrient management. It is advised to cut back a certain number of stems after blooming in order to stimulate consistent flowering and growth of new foliage. When cutting a stem, cut at the stem’s base. It is very important to use gloves while handling and pruning snow-on-the-mountain, because their tissues contain milky-white latex sap which is poisonous and can irritate the skin.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Genus Euphorbia is very large and diverse, so its different species can be found in various habitats, but the majority are well-adapted to a temperature range of -29 to 4 ℃. Many spurges, in spite of having succulent leaves, cannot handle long periods without moisture and need to be watered weekly during hot summer days. Some cactus-like species are well adapted to high temperatures and prolonged dry periods, but most species used for landscaping and decorative gardening require more moisture for proper development.
What is the optimal temperature for Snow-on-the-mountain?
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Snow-on-the-mountain
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How can I protect Snow-on-the-mountain from extreme temperatures?
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Snow-on-the-mountain
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Spurges aren’t picky when it comes to soil type. They can grow in a variety of soils. Some species of Euphorbia can even thrive in nutrient-poor soils, requiring only that the soil be well drained. If the soil is full of moisture and is prone to water retention, it will most likely cause root rot.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Snow-on-the-mountain can be successfully grown from seeds, but the seeds are rarely commercially available because they are difficult to germinate and stay viable only for a short period of time. Snow-on-the-mountain is most commonly propagated via cuttings.
It is important to wear gloves while working with snow-on-the-mountain cuttings and to clean the pruning shears thoroughly after pruning, so that any unwanted contact with the sap is avoided. Before planting, it is necessary to leave the cuttings to dry for 2-3 days. This will prevent rot from developing and enable proper formation of the callus tissue. It is advised to plant the cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat moss, because it provides an optimal environmental for proper root development.
Cuttings should be misted regularly, and the pots in which they are planted need to be wrapped in either foil or a plastic bag to preserve moisture. The bag or foil needs to be removed for two hours each day to provide sufficient air and to prevent excess moisture in the medium. If this step is skipped, molds and rots can easily develop and damage the health of the young, sensitive cuttings. When the cuttings develop a root system, they are ready to be transplanted into soil.
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Propagation

Only sow Snow-on-the-mountain seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Snow-on-the-mountain in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball before planting. Then, turn the container with snow-on-the-mountain upside down and let the plant slowly fall into your hands. Place the plant upright in the hole and slowly fill in around the roots with loose and fertile potting mixture, adjusting the planting depth until it is just right. Water it once. Do not overwater, as standing water is not good for the plant.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Snow-on-the-mountain?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Some species of Euphorbia can be cut for fresh flowers or foliage, such as snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Euphorbia fulgens and Euphorbiaformosana. When harvesting cuttings, remember to wear gloves, as the sap can be irritating to the skin. It can be cut from the base of the stem. Soak the end of the cutting in hot water for 10 seconds to stop the milky sap from oozing. The vase life of for the cutting will be about 5-7 days, and some flower food can extend its life.
When the fruits of Euphorbia plants are ripe, they burst and scatter the seeds over a large surface area. In order to harvest all the seeds, the individual fruits or the entire plant must be wrapped in in nylon, gauze, or similar material before the ripe fruit bursts and releases the seeds.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Snow-on-the-mountain?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
For snow-on-the-mountain, the perfect season for transplanting is early spring (S1), when the soil is just beginning to warm up. This plant prefers fully sunlit locations with drained soil. Always remember, patience and gentleness during transplantation are key because they help maintain root structure integrity.
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

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Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.
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After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.

This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.
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Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.
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Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.
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Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.
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Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.

As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

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Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.
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Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.
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3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.
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Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.

Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

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To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.
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Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Snow-on-the-mountain based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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care_toxicity

Snow-on-the-mountain and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Highly Toxic to Humans
Snow-on-the-mountain is a mildly toxic plant if eaten either fresh or dried. All parts of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and flowers contain a toxic milky, white sap. If the sap comes into contact with skin, redness, swelling, itching, and occasional blisters are common. Individuals prone to allergies may experience more severe symptoms. The sap will also irritate the eyes, nose, and mouth. Burning sensations in the eyes and blurry vision are common, along with sores in the nose and mouth. Ingesting the plant is rarely fatal, but abdominal distress is common. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are common side effects.
More Info About Toxicity
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
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Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

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The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Snow-on-the-mountain

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial, Perennial
Spread
Spread
20 to 30 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
White
Variegated
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 to 80 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Grown primarily for its showy foliage and bushy growth habit, snow-on-the-mountain is a refreshing focal point in flower beds and borders. It fits well into city and courtyard gardens, cottage gardens, and informal gardens. Due to its shrubby growth, it can create annual wall side borders and is also an interesting addition to cutting gardens (just beware of its poisonous sap if cutting).
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Common Problems

Where should snow-on-the-mountain be planted the garden?

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The best place for snow-on-the-mountain in the garden is a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil.

Are the roots of spurges invasive?

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Most spurges don’t have a tendency towards invasiveness. Species that are commonly used in landscaping and decorative gardening are not invasive. There are some exceptions, though. Leafy spurge (E. esula) is considered to be a very invasive species in Northern America. Its roots and rhizomes are very strong and persistent. Leafy spurge presents a great problem, because it competes with other plants wherever it grows, causing reduced diversity of plant species in the area.

Why won’t my snow-on-the-mountain blossom?

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If snow-on-the-mountain has trouble blossoming, it can be due to a lack of sunlight, water, or nutrients. Optimal environmental conditions must be provided, since they are crucial to flowering. If the plants are grown indoors, they should be placed in a spot that gets a lot of sun, as they require at least 6 hours of full light exposure every day.

When does snow-on-the-mountain need to be pruned?

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Snow-on-the-mountain should be pruned after blossoming. This ensures that the growth of new flowers and leaves is constant and well distributed. A little pruning can be also done in early spring in order to remove any wilted or dry leaves.

How to save a dying snow-on-the-mountain?

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Snow-on-the-mountain grows into a very healthy plant with very little care, which makes them an excellent choice for novice gardeners. There are a limited number of problems that snow-on-the-mountain encounters, so if anything goes wrong, it will be easy to narrow down the cause. If a snow-on-the-mountain seems like it is dying, it is probably due to root rot which is progressing into the upper parts of the plant. This problem can be solved only if the rot is in early stages.
It is recommended to remove any infected parts of the plant. Depending on the severity of infection, that may include removing only a part of the root, the whole root, or even some upper parts of the plant. The unaffected parts can be left to dry for a few days and form callus tissue, and then they can be planted in the medium to develop roots and grow into new plants.

Do the flowers of snow-on-the-mountain have an aroma? Is the aroma poisonous?

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Snow-on-the-mountain flowers do not have a strong scent. The flower’s aroma is very bitter, because like the other parts of the plant, the flowers contain poisonous latex sap. The sap can cause irritation if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes, and it is very harmful if it is ingested.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Snow-on-the-mountain flourishes when the day's arc is overpowering, yet tolerates intervals where sun rays are filtered. Over time, chronically concealed regions result in inadequate growth, while overexposure may lead to burnt foliage. A suitable origin for its propagation corresponds to settings with profuse solar exposure.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Snow-on-the-mountain, a plant that thrives in full sunlight, is commonly grown outdoors with ample sunlight. When cultivated indoors with inadequate light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your snow-on-the-mountain may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Snow-on-the-mountain enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Snow-on-the-mountain thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Snow-on-the-mountain is indigenous to temperate climates, with an optimal growth temperature range from 68 to 100.4°F (20 to 38℃). Depending on seasons, adjustments may be necessary to maintain this temperature spectrum.
Regional wintering strategies
Snow-on-the-mountain has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Snow-on-the-mountain is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Snow-on-the-mountain should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Snow-on-the-mountain?
For snow-on-the-mountain, the perfect season for transplanting is early spring (S1), when the soil is just beginning to warm up. This plant prefers fully sunlit locations with drained soil. Always remember, patience and gentleness during transplantation are key because they help maintain root structure integrity.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Snow-on-the-mountain?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Snow-on-the-mountain?
The perfect time to transplant snow-on-the-mountain is in the vibrant spring season or early summer. The warmer periods provide ideal conditions for the plant's growth and adaptation to a new environment. Transplanting snow-on-the-mountain during this time allows it to establish a strong root system ahead of colder months, ensuring continuous blooming. Conversely, doing so brings beauty and elegance into your space. Isn't it lovely to enjoy such alluring sight right in your garden?
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Snow-on-the-mountain Plants?
Glad to help you! For snow-on-the-mountain, arrange plants about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This will give them room to spread and achieve optimal growth. It's just like humans, we all need our space too, isn't it?
What is the Best Soil Mix for Snow-on-the-mountain Transplanting?
As for soil, your snow-on-the-mountain loves well-drained soil enriched with organic compost or a slow-release base fertilizer. Preparing such soil will give them a cozy home to thrive and grow. Happy planting!
Where Should You Relocate Your Snow-on-the-mountain?
Location does count! Your snow-on-the-mountain loves full sun to partial shade. So, choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. Just like how we need light to see, your snow-on-the-mountain needs it to grow well!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Snow-on-the-mountain?
Gardening Gloves
To safeguard your hands from soil and potential thorns or spiky leaves of snow-on-the-mountain.
Shovel or Spade
To dig holes and loosen the soil around the plant during the removal and transplantation processes.
Gardening Fork
To lift snow-on-the-mountain without causing damage to its root system during the removal process.
Watering Can
To hydrate snow-on-the-mountain before and after the transplantation process.
Wheelbarrow or Bucket
To transport snow-on-the-mountain from its initial place to the transplant location without stress.
Trowel
To dig small holes for planting the snow-on-the-mountain if they are small in size.
Measuring Tape
To ensure the planting hole is dug to the appropriate size for snow-on-the-mountain.
Mulch
To help retain moisture in the soil after transplantation.
How Do You Remove Snow-on-the-mountain from the Soil?
From Ground: Initially, moisten the soil around snow-on-the-mountain with water. Dig a broad circle around snow-on-the-mountain using a spade or shovel, leaving enough room to keep the root mass uncut. Carefully lift the plant from the ground with a gardening fork, ensuring the root ball is intact.
From Pot: Prior to removal, water snow-on-the-mountain generously. Grab the base of snow-on-the-mountain, tip the pot, and gently shake to loosen the root ball. Pull out snow-on-the-mountain carefully, supporting the root ball.
From Seedling Tray: Gently squeeze the underside of each cell to release snow-on-the-mountain seedlings. Remember to handle snow-on-the-mountain seedlings by their leaves to avoid causing damage to the stems or roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Snow-on-the-mountain
Step1 Preparation
Prior to transplanting snow-on-the-mountain, prepare the planting area and dig the hole double the width of the root ball and the same depth. Spray some water if the soil is dry.
Step2 Inspect Roots
Check the root ball of snow-on-the-mountain. If the roots are tightly bound, gently loosen them. This encourages new root growth into the surrounding soil.
Step3 Position snow-on-the-mountain
Carefully place snow-on-the-mountain in the hole, confirming that it is neither too deep nor too shallow.
Step4 Backfilling
Slowly backfill the hole with the excavated soil, firming the soil as you go to remove any air pockets.
Step5 Final Watering
Water snow-on-the-mountain generously to settle the remaining soil around the roots. Keep the soil moist but avoid waterlogging.
How Do You Care For Snow-on-the-mountain After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Keep a close watch on snow-on-the-mountain for a few weeks after transplanting. If snow-on-the-mountain shows signs of shock like wilting or loss of leaves, ensure you're watering correctly and the area is not too hot or cold.
Pruning
Remove any dead or damaged leaves from snow-on-the-mountain to direct growth energy towards new leaf production.
Pest and Disease Control
Keep an eye out for pests and signs of disease. Taking action early will give snow-on-the-mountain the best chance of recovery.
Fertilizer
Wait at least a month before adding lightly recommended fertilizers. Fertilizing too soon can burn the roots of snow-on-the-mountain.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Snow-on-the-mountain Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant snow-on-the-mountain?
The perfect period to transplant snow-on-the-mountain is in season 'S1'. It promotes better root establishment and plant growth.
What is the ideal spacing for planting snow-on-the-mountain?
Each snow-on-the-mountain plant should be spaced around 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This gives them enough room to grow and thrive.
How should the soil be prepared for transplanting snow-on-the-mountain?
Carefully loosen the soil with a garden fork before adding organic compost or manure. This enriches the earth and helps snow-on-the-mountain to settle in.
Should I water snow-on-the-mountain before or after transplanting?
Water snow-on-the-mountain thoroughly after transplanting. This settles the soil around the roots and helps establish them in the new planting area.
Do I need to prune snow-on-the-mountain during transplanting?
Pruning isn't typically required during transplanting. However, if the plant is overgrown, you can prune mildly for shape and size control.
What type of soil does snow-on-the-mountain prefer?
Snow-on-the-mountain grows best in well-drained, fertile soil. They can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as it’s not waterlogged.
Does snow-on-the-mountain need sunlight after transplanting?
Yes, snow-on-the-mountain loves the sun! Ensure it's placed where it can receive plenty of sunlight. Partial shade can also be tolerated.
How to ensure proper root establishment for snow-on-the-mountain after transplant?
Water consistently and add a layer of mulch around the plant. Mulching helps retain soil moisture and promotes healthy root establishment.
What should I do if snow-on-the-mountain shows signs of transplant shock?
If signs of shock like wilting or leaf drop appear, reduce sun exposure and increase watering. Be patient, as recovery might take time.
Can I use a fertilizer after transplanting snow-on-the-mountain?
Yes, apply a slow-release fertilizer after transplanting, especially if the soil lacks nutrients. But, remember, too much can harm the plant.
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Toxic
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Summarization
Highly Toxic to Humans
Human
AllParts
Toxic parts
Swallowed
Effect methods
Is Snow-on-the-mountain toxic to human?
Snow-on-the-mountain is a mildly toxic plant if eaten either fresh or dried. All parts of the plant, including the stem, leaves, and flowers contain a toxic milky, white sap. If the sap comes into contact with skin, redness, swelling, itching, and occasional blisters are common. Individuals prone to allergies may experience more severe symptoms. The sap will also irritate the eyes, nose, and mouth. Burning sensations in the eyes and blurry vision are common, along with sores in the nose and mouth. Ingesting the plant is rarely fatal, but abdominal distress is common. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain are common side effects.
How to identify Snow-on-the-mountain
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
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