You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember White ash prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care White Ash
White ash is a species of ash tree native to North America. It’s leaves turn distinctly bright yellow or red in the autumn. Fraxinus americana is a fast-growing pioneer species that often inhabits riparian zones, and fragmented and disturbed habitats. It is similar in appearance to Green ash (F. pennsylvanica) and sometimes it is hard to tell between the two.

Symbolism
Protection, Prosperity, Sea Rituals, a tie between our world and the spirit world

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun





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Basic Care Guide

Water
It is best to water white ash daily when it has just been planted to encourage root growth. Once white ash has successfully taken root, watering once a week is enough. When the weather is dry and the tree is growing vigorously in summer, increase the frequency of watering. Before the ground freezes in late fall or winter, water once and then stop. this will provide the water it needs throughout the winter. Do not overwater the plant, as this could waterlog the soil and induce root rot.
Water
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What's the best method to water my White ash?
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What should I do if I water White ash too much/too little?
An overwatered White ash can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the White ash recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the White ash indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your White ash outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my White ash?
The White ash likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.White ash generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my White ash?
The White ash generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If White ash is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When White ash is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As White ash continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving White ash a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my White ash according to different seasons or climates?
The White ash needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the White ash to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the White ash will need less water during the winter. Since the White ash will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your White ash growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases White ash can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your White ash and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your White ash’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the White ash’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my White ash in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, White ash mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering White ash in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when White ash begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my White ash important?
Watering the White ash helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The White ash thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
White ash can tolerate infertile soil, but adequate nutrients promote healthy growth and reduce the possibility of pests and diseases. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (10:10:10 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) once every fall, and give plenty of water afterward. this will promote nutrient uptake and prevent the fertilizer from burning the roots. If your white ash is planted in spring, fertilize it in late summer; if it is planted in fall, fertilize the second spring. Because the roots of newly planted trees are weak and cannot absorb nutrients well, too much fertilizer may cause root burn.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my White ash?
Regardless of which kind of White ash you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your White ash be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your White ash is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your White ash. Doing so will prompt your White ash to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
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When is the best time to fertilize my White ash?
The first time that you should fertilize your White ash is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your White ash all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many White ash to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your White ash will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your White ash be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my White ash?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your White ash. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your White ash will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your White ash will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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What type of fertilizer does my White ash need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a White ash is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your White ash likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a White ash. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
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How do I fertilize my White ash?
To fertilize your White ash using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your White ash, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your White ash. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my White ash too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a White ash. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your White ash may begin to develop brown leaves. Your White ash can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your White ash to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your White ash.
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Sunlight
White ash prefers full sun and can grow in a slightly shaded environment. plant it in an open location that provides at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If sunlight is insufficient, it will grow poorly and bloom sparsely. However, if white ash is not leafy enough, its trunk will get sunburned when the summer sunlight is strong.


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How much/long should White ash get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that White ash receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does White ash need?
White ash does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage White ash? How to protect White ash from the sun and heat damage?
White ash planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive White ash during extreme weather events.
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Does White ash need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect White ash from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for White ash, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for White ash to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if White ash gets inadequate sunlight?
When White ash receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If White ash receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does White ash need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young White ash and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. White ash fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and White ash?
Recently transplanted White ash will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of White ash drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
White ash that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Prune white ash in fall so the pruning wound can heal before the plant goes dormant in winter. Pruning also prevents winter rain and snow from crushing the branches. It is best to prune young trees every year and prune mature white ash every few years. Do some pruning regularly, such as removing some dead or diseased branches. When pruning, make sure to remove branches that are overgrown or crossed over. this promotes air circulation and prevents disease. If your white ash is particularly tall, it's best to have it pruned by a professional.

Is pruning necessary for my White ash?
Despite having a relatively fast habit of growth, White ash does not require very much pruning. It is not necessary to routinely prune this tree, however, it does require some pruning every once in a while. Pruning can be done to tidy this tree up and remove any diseased or damaged foliage. Or White ash can be pruned for shaping.
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When is the best time to prune my White ash?
White ash should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing. The best time to prune White ash is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant.
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How can I prune my White ash?
Pruning White ash is a fairly easy task if you know what to look for. To prune these trees, you will need a pair of sharp pruning shears. Using your pruning shears, remove any damaged or diseased parts of the tree. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. Additionally, leaving the lower limbs alone will help to prevent any disease-inducing stress, as well as suckers from forming.
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What should I do after pruning my White ash?
There are no special requirements to follow after you have pruned your White ash. It is recommended, however, that you dispose of any diseased foliage that has been removed from the tree away from any other plants. This is to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. After pruning your White ash, you may apply a fertilizer treatment to encourage faster growth. Do not water the plants immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds.
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What should I be careful with when pruning my White ash during different growing stages?
The best time to prune White ash is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. This will increase ventilation and light, reduce disease infection and allow White ash to grow more vigorously. When pruning branches you need to leave the strong ones and remove the weak ones, keeping healthy auxiliary branches that grow outwards at about 45 degrees. Branches that are too angled or too small should be removed. Pruning Saw is required if the branch is more than three quarters of an inch in size, pruning should be done in the direction of the "Branch bark ridge" to the "Branch collar" to allow for good healing. Branches that require a saw need to be pruned using the "three-cut method", which prevents the bark of the branch from tearing and creating cracks in the trunk, which can be detrimental to the recovery of the plant. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant to keep it looking its best as if it's possible. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely.
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Are there any tips for pruning my White ash?
The best thing to remember about White ash is that they do not require routine pruning. Your tree will likely grow better if you prune it as and when it is necessary and no more than that. Additionally, you should also keep in mind that it is better to leave the lower limbs of this tree alone to prevent stress-induced diseases from attacking your tree. Different diameter branches require different pruning tools. If the tree is too tall, pruning needs to be done safely or by a professional.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
What is the optimal temperature for White ash?
The best temperature for White ash to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for White ash during different growing phases?
Research shows that White ash will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep White ash warm in cold seasons?
White ash can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will White ash suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to White ash if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If White ash gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If White ash gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for White ash?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping White ash healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep White ash warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of White ash, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide White ash with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant White ash in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If White ash is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save White ash from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give White ash extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for White ash in different seasons?
White ash is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for White ash?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant White ash in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Propagation

Planting

Harvest
White ash trees can be propagated by seed or by cutting. Take cuttings in spring or summer, when the tree is less stressed. When cutting in summer, shade the tree to prevent excessive evaporation of water. Choose branches that grew in the current or last year, and cut 15 cm branches, preferably with 3-4 buds. Insert them into moist, sandy soil, and they will take root within 8 weeks.
The sowing process is complicated and white ash trees need a long time to grow, so propagating by sowing is not usually recommended. If you want to sow white ash, do it in spring, and start in a pot. Place the seeds in 1.3 cm-deep soil and cover them with plastic film. Store the pots in a refrigerator for three months. Next, place on a heating mat (or somewhere else) and keep at 21 to 24 ℃ for three months. During this period, make sure to keep the soil moist. The seeds will germinate within six weeks.
Propagation
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Transplant white ash before it sprouts in the spring, so it is more likely to establish itself. First, choose a sunny, open area that provides plenty of space for it to grow. Mature white ash can grow to average heights of 12 to 18 m, so you should make sure there are no walls or other trees nearby that will prevent it from growing. Dig a hole as deep as the soil mass that encases the plant roots and twice as wide as the root mass. After planting, compact the soil and water it well.

If you want to collect white ash seeds for planting, harvest the fruit in the fall when it turns from green to tan. The dried seeds can be stored at room temperature for 3-5 years.


Seasonal Care Tips

Summer

Fall

Winter
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for White ash based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About White Ash

Plant Type
Tree

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
Purple
Green

Leaf Color
Yellow
Green
Purple

Flower Size
2.5 cm

Plant Height
20 to 25 m
Name story
White ash
As one of the most common trees in North America, it's also easy to be mixed up with other trees such as green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica). Actually, the best way to identify it is to examine its branches and leaves. The back of its leaves features a white covering along its veins, and the surface layer of the branches can be peeled off easily. Although the tree bark is gray colored, the timber turns white after further processing. With these reasons considered, it has been called white ash.
Usages
Garden Use
White ash is one of the most commonly grown trees, with over 8 billion of them just in the US. Though it is not usually cultivated as an ornamental, it is sometimes planted for its reliably beautiful fall leaves with a lovely gradient of fiery colors. White ash can provide much-needed shade, support a border garden, or simply act as a standalone specimen in the lawn. It works well with forget-me-nots, hostas, and ferns.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my white ash turn yellow and fall off?


In the fall, the leaves naturally turn yellow and fall off. If this happens in the spring or summer, then your tree may have a problem. Possible causes include:
- Impermeable soil compaction. Loosen the soil frequently to prevent it from crusting and ensure the tree roots can breathe properly.
- A lack of zinc, iron, and other trace elements. A lack of iron and other elements can prevent leaves from synthesizing chlorophyll, resulting in yellowed leaves. Supplement your white ash with an appropriate elemental fertilizer.
- Alkaline soil prevents the plant from absorbing trace elements in the soil, resulting in yellowed leaves.
- A lack of root respiration due to overwatering. Waterlogged soil prevents the roots from breathing well, leading to yellowed leaves.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to care White Ash
White ash is a species of ash tree native to North America. It’s leaves turn distinctly bright yellow or red in the autumn. Fraxinus americana is a fast-growing pioneer species that often inhabits riparian zones, and fragmented and disturbed habitats. It is similar in appearance to Green ash (F. pennsylvanica) and sometimes it is hard to tell between the two.

Symbolism
Protection, Prosperity, Sea Rituals, a tie between our world and the spirit world

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

It is best to water white ash daily when it has just been planted to encourage root growth. Once white ash has successfully taken root, watering once a week is enough. When the weather is dry and the tree is growing vigorously in summer, increase the frequency of watering. Before the ground freezes in late fall or winter, water once and then stop. this will provide the water it needs throughout the winter. Do not overwater the plant, as this could waterlog the soil and induce root rot.

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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
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Fertilizer

White ash can tolerate infertile soil, but adequate nutrients promote healthy growth and reduce the possibility of pests and diseases. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (10:10:10 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) once every fall, and give plenty of water afterward. this will promote nutrient uptake and prevent the fertilizer from burning the roots. If your white ash is planted in spring, fertilize it in late summer; if it is planted in fall, fertilize the second spring. Because the roots of newly planted trees are weak and cannot absorb nutrients well, too much fertilizer may cause root burn.

Fertilizer
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Sunlight

White ash prefers full sun and can grow in a slightly shaded environment. plant it in an open location that provides at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If sunlight is insufficient, it will grow poorly and bloom sparsely. However, if white ash is not leafy enough, its trunk will get sunburned when the summer sunlight is strong.

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Pruning

Prune white ash in fall so the pruning wound can heal before the plant goes dormant in winter. Pruning also prevents winter rain and snow from crushing the branches. It is best to prune young trees every year and prune mature white ash every few years. Do some pruning regularly, such as removing some dead or diseased branches. When pruning, make sure to remove branches that are overgrown or crossed over. this promotes air circulation and prevents disease. If your white ash is particularly tall, it's best to have it pruned by a professional.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
What is the optimal temperature for White ash?

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Propagation

Planting

Harvest

White ash trees can be propagated by seed or by cutting. Take cuttings in spring or summer, when the tree is less stressed. When cutting in summer, shade the tree to prevent excessive evaporation of water. Choose branches that grew in the current or last year, and cut 15 cm branches, preferably with 3-4 buds. Insert them into moist, sandy soil, and they will take root within 8 weeks.
The sowing process is complicated and white ash trees need a long time to grow, so propagating by sowing is not usually recommended. If you want to sow white ash, do it in spring, and start in a pot. Place the seeds in 1.3 cm-deep soil and cover them with plastic film. Store the pots in a refrigerator for three months. Next, place on a heating mat (or somewhere else) and keep at 21 to 24 ℃ for three months. During this period, make sure to keep the soil moist. The seeds will germinate within six weeks.

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Transplant white ash before it sprouts in the spring, so it is more likely to establish itself. First, choose a sunny, open area that provides plenty of space for it to grow. Mature white ash can grow to average heights of 12 to 18 m, so you should make sure there are no walls or other trees nearby that will prevent it from growing. Dig a hole as deep as the soil mass that encases the plant roots and twice as wide as the root mass. After planting, compact the soil and water it well.

If you want to collect white ash seeds for planting, harvest the fruit in the fall when it turns from green to tan. The dried seeds can be stored at room temperature for 3-5 years.

Seasonal Care Tips

Summer

Fall

Winter
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for White ash based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Black spot



Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Learn More


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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About White Ash

Plant Type
Tree

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
Purple
Green

Leaf Color
Yellow
Green
Purple

Flower Size
2.5 cm

Plant Height
20 to 25 m
Name story
White ash
As one of the most common trees in North America, it's also easy to be mixed up with other trees such as green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica). Actually, the best way to identify it is to examine its branches and leaves. The back of its leaves features a white covering along its veins, and the surface layer of the branches can be peeled off easily. Although the tree bark is gray colored, the timber turns white after further processing. With these reasons considered, it has been called white ash.
Usages
Garden Use
White ash is one of the most commonly grown trees, with over 8 billion of them just in the US. Though it is not usually cultivated as an ornamental, it is sometimes planted for its reliably beautiful fall leaves with a lovely gradient of fiery colors. White ash can provide much-needed shade, support a border garden, or simply act as a standalone specimen in the lawn. It works well with forget-me-nots, hostas, and ferns.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my white ash turn yellow and fall off?


In the fall, the leaves naturally turn yellow and fall off. If this happens in the spring or summer, then your tree may have a problem. Possible causes include:
- Impermeable soil compaction. Loosen the soil frequently to prevent it from crusting and ensure the tree roots can breathe properly.
- A lack of zinc, iron, and other trace elements. A lack of iron and other elements can prevent leaves from synthesizing chlorophyll, resulting in yellowed leaves. Supplement your white ash with an appropriate elemental fertilizer.
- Alkaline soil prevents the plant from absorbing trace elements in the soil, resulting in yellowed leaves.
- A lack of root respiration due to overwatering. Waterlogged soil prevents the roots from breathing well, leading to yellowed leaves.


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