You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Narrow-leaved ash prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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How to Care for Narrow-leaved Ash
Narrow-leaved ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) is a deciduous tree that will grow from 18 to 24 m tall. It blooms in spring with small greenish flowers. Fast-growing with small narrow leaves that have a lacy-textured appearance and turn to a beautiful golden yellow in fall. Winged seeds ripen in fall. It grows in full sun with moist to medium well-drained soil.
Symbolism
tree of life
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Basic Care Guide
Water
It is best to water narrow-leaved ash daily when it has just been planted to encourage root growth. Once narrow-leaved ash has successfully taken root, watering once a week is enough. When the weather is dry and the tree is growing vigorously in summer, increase the frequency of watering. Before the ground freezes in late fall or winter, water once and then stop. This will provide the water it needs throughout the winter. Do not overwater the plant, as this could waterlog the soil and induce root rot.
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What's the best method to water my Narrow-leaved ash?
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What should I do if I water Narrow-leaved ash too much/too little?
An overwatered Narrow-leaved ash can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Narrow-leaved ash recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Narrow-leaved ash indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Narrow-leaved ash outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Narrow-leaved ash?
The Narrow-leaved ash likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Narrow-leaved ash generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Narrow-leaved ash?
The Narrow-leaved ash generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Narrow-leaved ash is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Narrow-leaved ash is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Narrow-leaved ash continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Narrow-leaved ash a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Narrow-leaved ash according to different seasons or climates?
The Narrow-leaved ash needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Narrow-leaved ash to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Narrow-leaved ash will need less water during the winter. Since the Narrow-leaved ash will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Narrow-leaved ash growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Narrow-leaved ash can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Narrow-leaved ash and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Narrow-leaved ash’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Narrow-leaved ash’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Narrow-leaved ash in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Narrow-leaved ash mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Narrow-leaved ash in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Narrow-leaved ash begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Narrow-leaved ash important?
Watering the Narrow-leaved ash helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Narrow-leaved ash thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
Narrow-leaved ash can tolerate infertile soil, but adequate nutrients promote healthy growth and reduce the possibility of pests and diseases. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (10:10:10 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) once every fall, and give plenty of water afterward. This will promote nutrient uptake and prevent the fertilizer from burning the roots. If your narrow-leaved ash is planted in spring, fertilize it in late summer; if it is planted in fall, fertilize the second spring. Because the roots of newly planted trees are weak and cannot absorb nutrients well, too much fertilizer may cause root burn.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash?
Regardless of which kind of Narrow-leaved ash you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Narrow-leaved ash be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Narrow-leaved ash is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Narrow-leaved ash. Doing so will prompt your Narrow-leaved ash to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash?
The first time that you should fertilize your Narrow-leaved ash is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Narrow-leaved ash all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Narrow-leaved ash to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Narrow-leaved ash will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Narrow-leaved ash be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Narrow-leaved ash?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Narrow-leaved ash. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Narrow-leaved ash will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Narrow-leaved ash will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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What type of fertilizer does my Narrow-leaved ash need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Narrow-leaved ash is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Narrow-leaved ash likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Narrow-leaved ash. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
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How do I fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash?
To fertilize your Narrow-leaved ash using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Narrow-leaved ash, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Narrow-leaved ash. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Narrow-leaved ash. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Narrow-leaved ash may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Narrow-leaved ash can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Narrow-leaved ash to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Narrow-leaved ash.
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Sunlight
Narrow-leaved ash prefers full sun and can grow in a slightly shaded environment. plant it in an open location that provides at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If sunlight is insufficient, it will grow poorly and bloom sparsely. However, if narrow-leaved ash is not leafy enough, its trunk will get sunburned when the summer sunlight is strong.
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How much/long should Narrow-leaved ash get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Narrow-leaved ash receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Narrow-leaved ash need?
Narrow-leaved ash does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Narrow-leaved ash? How to protect Narrow-leaved ash from the sun and heat damage?
Narrow-leaved ash planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Narrow-leaved ash during extreme weather events.
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Does Narrow-leaved ash need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Narrow-leaved ash from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Narrow-leaved ash, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Narrow-leaved ash to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Narrow-leaved ash gets inadequate sunlight?
When Narrow-leaved ash receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Narrow-leaved ash receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Narrow-leaved ash need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Narrow-leaved ash and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Narrow-leaved ash fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Narrow-leaved ash?
Recently transplanted Narrow-leaved ash will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Narrow-leaved ash drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Narrow-leaved ash that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Prune narrow-leaved ash in fall so the pruning wound can heal before the plant goes dormant in winter. Pruning also prevents winter rain and snow from crushing the branches. It is best to prune young trees every year and prune mature narrow-leaved ash every few years. Do some pruning regularly, such as removing some dead or diseased branches. When pruning, make sure to remove branches that are overgrown or crossed over. This promotes air circulation and prevents disease. If your narrow-leaved ash is particularly tall, it's best to have it pruned by a professional.
Is pruning necessary for my Narrow-leaved ash?
Despite having a relatively fast habit of growth, Narrow-leaved ash does not require very much pruning. It is not necessary to routinely prune this tree, however, it does require some pruning every once in a while. Pruning can be done to tidy this tree up and remove any diseased or damaged foliage. Or Narrow-leaved ash can be pruned for shaping.
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When is the best time to prune my Narrow-leaved ash?
Narrow-leaved ash should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing. The best time to prune Narrow-leaved ash is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant.
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How can I prune my Narrow-leaved ash?
Pruning Narrow-leaved ash is a fairly easy task if you know what to look for. To prune these trees, you will need a pair of sharp pruning shears. Using your pruning shears, remove any damaged or diseased parts of the tree. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. Additionally, leaving the lower limbs alone will help to prevent any disease-inducing stress, as well as suckers from forming.
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What should I do after pruning my Narrow-leaved ash?
There are no special requirements to follow after you have pruned your Narrow-leaved ash. It is recommended, however, that you dispose of any diseased foliage that has been removed from the tree away from any other plants. This is to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. After pruning your Narrow-leaved ash, you may apply a fertilizer treatment to encourage faster growth. Do not water the plants immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds.
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What should I be careful with when pruning my Narrow-leaved ash during different growing stages?
The best time to prune Narrow-leaved ash is between late winter to early spring. This is the period when pruning causes the least damage to the plant. Keep an eye out for any shoots that are becoming congested or are beginning to cross and remove them. Ideally, you should steer clear from pruning any of the tree’s lower limbs. Leaving these intact will allow the tree to have a more natural and open form. This will increase ventilation and light, reduce disease infection and allow Narrow-leaved ash to grow more vigorously. When pruning branches you need to leave the strong ones and remove the weak ones, keeping healthy auxiliary branches that grow outwards at about 45 degrees. Branches that are too angled or too small should be removed. Pruning Saw is required if the branch is more than three quarters of an inch in size, pruning should be done in the direction of the "Branch bark ridge" to the "Branch collar" to allow for good healing. Branches that require a saw need to be pruned using the "three-cut method", which prevents the bark of the branch from tearing and creating cracks in the trunk, which can be detrimental to the recovery of the plant. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant to keep it looking its best as if it's possible. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Narrow-leaved ash?
The best thing to remember about Narrow-leaved ash is that they do not require routine pruning. Your tree will likely grow better if you prune it as and when it is necessary and no more than that. Additionally, you should also keep in mind that it is better to leave the lower limbs of this tree alone to prevent stress-induced diseases from attacking your tree. Different diameter branches require different pruning tools. If the tree is too tall, pruning needs to be done safely or by a professional.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Narrow-leaved ash is widely distributed in temperate and subtropical regions of the northern hemisphere. It prefers cool, moist environments. It is resistant to heat, and can tolerate temperatures. Moist environments allow narrow-leaved ash to grow better. It can also tolerate waterlogging and drought.
What is the optimal temperature for Narrow-leaved ash?
The best temperature for Narrow-leaved ash to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect：65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest：85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest：-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Narrow-leaved ash during different growing phases?
Research shows that Narrow-leaved ash will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Narrow-leaved ash warm in cold seasons?
Narrow-leaved ash can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Narrow-leaved ash suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Narrow-leaved ash if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Narrow-leaved ash gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Narrow-leaved ash gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Narrow-leaved ash?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Narrow-leaved ash healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Narrow-leaved ash warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Narrow-leaved ash, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Narrow-leaved ash with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Narrow-leaved ash in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Narrow-leaved ash is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Narrow-leaved ash from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Narrow-leaved ash extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Narrow-leaved ash in different seasons?
Narrow-leaved ash is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Narrow-leaved ash?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Narrow-leaved ash in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
Narrow-leaved ash can grow in many types of soil. It likes soil with sufficient nutrients. The soil pH is not important; it can survive in a variety of pH levels, from alkaline to acidic. Narrow-leaved ash prefers soil with good drainage, but can also tolerate drought and standing water.
Propagation
Planting
Harvest
Narrow-leaved ash trees can be propagated by seed or by cutting. Take cuttings in spring or summer, when the tree is less stressed. When cutting in summer, shade the tree to prevent excessive evaporation of water. Choose branches that grew in the current or last year, and cut 15 cm branches, preferably with 3-4 buds. Insert them into moist, sandy soil, and they will take root within 8 weeks.
The sowing process is complicated and narrow-leaved ash trees need a long time to grow, so propagating by sowing is not usually recommended. If you want to sow narrow-leaved ash, do it in spring, and start in a pot. Place the seeds in 1.3 cm-deep soil and cover them with plastic film. Store the pots in a refrigerator for three months. Next, place on a heating mat (or somewhere else) and keep at 21 to 24 ℃ for three months. During this period, make sure to keep the soil moist. The seeds will germinate within six weeks.
Propagation
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Transplant narrow-leaved ash before it sprouts in the spring, so it is more likely to establish itself. First, choose a sunny, open area that provides plenty of space for it to grow. Mature narrow-leaved ash can grow to average heights of 12 to 18 m, so you should make sure there are no walls or other trees nearby that will prevent it from growing. Dig a hole as deep as the soil mass that encases the plant roots and twice as wide as the root mass. After planting, compact the soil and water it well.
If you want to collect narrow-leaved ash seeds for planting, harvest the fruit in the fall when it turns from green to tan. The dried seeds can be stored at room temperature for 3-5 years.
Transplanting
The sweet spot for transplanting narrow-leaved ash beautifully falls between S1 and S2, as the plant achieves optimal root establishment. It prefers well-drained soil in a sunny to partially-shaded location. Remember, though, this variety appreciates a gentle touch during the transplant process!
More About How-Tos
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
Narrow-leaved ash thrives in areas where it can receive an ample amount of sunlight throughout the day. It can also manage in locales with less sunlight exposure. Although originating from habitats with generous sun exposure, narrow-leaved ash can endure in less sunny conditions. Too little sunlight may slow growth, while too much can cause leaf burn.
Temperature
-20 35 ℃
In its native growth environment, the narrow-leaved ash plant thrives in temperatures ranging from 5 to 32 ℃ (41 to 90 ℉). It prefers cooler temperatures in the winter and spring seasons, but can tolerate warmer temperatures in the summer and fall. To adjust to colder temperatures, it is recommended to mulch the soil around the plant and protect it from strong winds. In hotter months, avoid overwatering and provide shade when needed.
Transplant
15-20 feet
The sweet spot for transplanting narrow-leaved ash beautifully falls between S1 and S2, as the plant achieves optimal root establishment. It prefers well-drained soil in a sunny to partially-shaded location. Remember, though, this variety appreciates a gentle touch during the transplant process!
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.
1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.
1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.
1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.
3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.
1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Narrow-leaved ash based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
- Small yellow spots appear on leaves
- Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
- Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
- Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
- Stunted growth
- Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
- Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
- Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
- Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
- Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
- Plant resistant varieties
- Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
- Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
- Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
- Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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More About Narrow-leaved Ash
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
9 to 12 m
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Green
Yellow
Plant Height
20 to 30 m
Name story
Narrow-leaved ash
Narrow-leaved ash, which can be traced back to an Old English word, æsc, is probably used to mean spear, as the wood of the narrow-leaved ash is good for making shafts. The thin leaflets found on this tree give it its common name, narrow-leaved ash.
Usages
Garden Use
Narrow-leaved ash is an elegant, fast-growing tree valued in ornamental landscapes for the fine, lacey texture of its leaves that turn from green to deep yellow in the fall. This species can be planted nearby poplars and elms in woodland gardens. Narrow-leaved ash is considered cold tolerant and can handle atmospheric pollution as well.
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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my narrow-leaved ash turn yellow and fall off?
In the fall, the leaves naturally turn yellow and fall off. If this happens in the spring or summer, then your tree may have a problem. Possible causes include:
- Impermeable soil compaction. Loosen the soil frequently to prevent it from crusting and ensure the tree roots can breathe properly.
- A lack of zinc, iron, and other trace elements. A lack of iron and other elements can prevent leaves from synthesizing chlorophyll, resulting in yellowed leaves. Supplement your narrow-leaved ash with an appropriate elemental fertilizer.
- Alkaline soil prevents the plant from absorbing trace elements in the soil, resulting in yellowed leaves.
- A lack of root respiration due to overwatering. Waterlogged soil prevents the roots from breathing well, leading to yellowed leaves.
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About
Basic Care
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More Info
FAQ
How to Care for Narrow-leaved Ash
Narrow-leaved ash (Fraxinus angustifolia) is a deciduous tree that will grow from 18 to 24 m tall. It blooms in spring with small greenish flowers. Fast-growing with small narrow leaves that have a lacy-textured appearance and turn to a beautiful golden yellow in fall. Winged seeds ripen in fall. It grows in full sun with moist to medium well-drained soil.
Symbolism
tree of life
Every 1-2 weeks
Water ![Water detail]()
Full sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Basic Care Guide
Water
It is best to water narrow-leaved ash daily when it has just been planted to encourage root growth. Once narrow-leaved ash has successfully taken root, watering once a week is enough. When the weather is dry and the tree is growing vigorously in summer, increase the frequency of watering. Before the ground freezes in late fall or winter, water once and then stop. This will provide the water it needs throughout the winter. Do not overwater the plant, as this could waterlog the soil and induce root rot.
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Fertilizer
Narrow-leaved ash can tolerate infertile soil, but adequate nutrients promote healthy growth and reduce the possibility of pests and diseases. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (10:10:10 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) once every fall, and give plenty of water afterward. This will promote nutrient uptake and prevent the fertilizer from burning the roots. If your narrow-leaved ash is planted in spring, fertilize it in late summer; if it is planted in fall, fertilize the second spring. Because the roots of newly planted trees are weak and cannot absorb nutrients well, too much fertilizer may cause root burn.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash?
When is the best time to fertilize my Narrow-leaved ash?
When should I avoid fertilizing my Narrow-leaved ash?
What type of fertilizer does my Narrow-leaved ash need?
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Sunlight
Narrow-leaved ash prefers full sun and can grow in a slightly shaded environment. plant it in an open location that provides at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If sunlight is insufficient, it will grow poorly and bloom sparsely. However, if narrow-leaved ash is not leafy enough, its trunk will get sunburned when the summer sunlight is strong.
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How much/long should Narrow-leaved ash get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
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Can sunlight damage Narrow-leaved ash? How to protect Narrow-leaved ash from the sun and heat damage?
Does Narrow-leaved ash need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Narrow-leaved ash from the sun?
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Pruning
Prune narrow-leaved ash in fall so the pruning wound can heal before the plant goes dormant in winter. Pruning also prevents winter rain and snow from crushing the branches. It is best to prune young trees every year and prune mature narrow-leaved ash every few years. Do some pruning regularly, such as removing some dead or diseased branches. When pruning, make sure to remove branches that are overgrown or crossed over. This promotes air circulation and prevents disease. If your narrow-leaved ash is particularly tall, it's best to have it pruned by a professional.
Is pruning necessary for my Narrow-leaved ash?
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Narrow-leaved ash is widely distributed in temperate and subtropical regions of the northern hemisphere. It prefers cool, moist environments. It is resistant to heat, and can tolerate temperatures. Moist environments allow narrow-leaved ash to grow better. It can also tolerate waterlogging and drought.
What is the optimal temperature for Narrow-leaved ash?
Should I adjust the temperature for Narrow-leaved ash during different growing phases?
How can I keep Narrow-leaved ash warm in cold seasons?
What damage will Narrow-leaved ash suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
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Soil
Narrow-leaved ash can grow in many types of soil. It likes soil with sufficient nutrients. The soil pH is not important; it can survive in a variety of pH levels, from alkaline to acidic. Narrow-leaved ash prefers soil with good drainage, but can also tolerate drought and standing water.
Propagation
Planting
Harvest
Narrow-leaved ash trees can be propagated by seed or by cutting. Take cuttings in spring or summer, when the tree is less stressed. When cutting in summer, shade the tree to prevent excessive evaporation of water. Choose branches that grew in the current or last year, and cut 15 cm branches, preferably with 3-4 buds. Insert them into moist, sandy soil, and they will take root within 8 weeks.
The sowing process is complicated and narrow-leaved ash trees need a long time to grow, so propagating by sowing is not usually recommended. If you want to sow narrow-leaved ash, do it in spring, and start in a pot. Place the seeds in 1.3 cm-deep soil and cover them with plastic film. Store the pots in a refrigerator for three months. Next, place on a heating mat (or somewhere else) and keep at 21 to 24 ℃ for three months. During this period, make sure to keep the soil moist. The seeds will germinate within six weeks.
Propagation
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Transplant narrow-leaved ash before it sprouts in the spring, so it is more likely to establish itself. First, choose a sunny, open area that provides plenty of space for it to grow. Mature narrow-leaved ash can grow to average heights of 12 to 18 m, so you should make sure there are no walls or other trees nearby that will prevent it from growing. Dig a hole as deep as the soil mass that encases the plant roots and twice as wide as the root mass. After planting, compact the soil and water it well.
If you want to collect narrow-leaved ash seeds for planting, harvest the fruit in the fall when it turns from green to tan. The dried seeds can be stored at room temperature for 3-5 years.
Transplanting
The sweet spot for transplanting narrow-leaved ash beautifully falls between S1 and S2, as the plant achieves optimal root establishment. It prefers well-drained soil in a sunny to partially-shaded location. Remember, though, this variety appreciates a gentle touch during the transplant process!
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.
1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.
1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.
1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.
3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.
1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Narrow-leaved ash based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
- Small yellow spots appear on leaves
- Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
- Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
- Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
- Stunted growth
- Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
- Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
- Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
- Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
- Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
- Plant resistant varieties
- Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
- Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
- Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
- Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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More About Narrow-leaved Ash
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
9 to 12 m
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Green
Yellow
Plant Height
20 to 30 m
Name story
Narrow-leaved ash
Narrow-leaved ash, which can be traced back to an Old English word, æsc, is probably used to mean spear, as the wood of the narrow-leaved ash is good for making shafts. The thin leaflets found on this tree give it its common name, narrow-leaved ash.
Usages
Garden Use
Narrow-leaved ash is an elegant, fast-growing tree valued in ornamental landscapes for the fine, lacey texture of its leaves that turn from green to deep yellow in the fall. This species can be planted nearby poplars and elms in woodland gardens. Narrow-leaved ash is considered cold tolerant and can handle atmospheric pollution as well.
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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my narrow-leaved ash turn yellow and fall off?
In the fall, the leaves naturally turn yellow and fall off. If this happens in the spring or summer, then your tree may have a problem. Possible causes include:
- Impermeable soil compaction. Loosen the soil frequently to prevent it from crusting and ensure the tree roots can breathe properly.
- A lack of zinc, iron, and other trace elements. A lack of iron and other elements can prevent leaves from synthesizing chlorophyll, resulting in yellowed leaves. Supplement your narrow-leaved ash with an appropriate elemental fertilizer.
- Alkaline soil prevents the plant from absorbing trace elements in the soil, resulting in yellowed leaves.
- A lack of root respiration due to overwatering. Waterlogged soil prevents the roots from breathing well, leading to yellowed leaves.
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Water
How Often Should I Water Narrow-leaved Ash?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Narrow-leaved ash is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Narrow-leaved ash is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Narrow-leaved ash thrives in areas where it can receive an ample amount of sunlight throughout the day. It can also manage in locales with less sunlight exposure. Although originating from habitats with generous sun exposure, narrow-leaved ash can endure in less sunny conditions. Too little sunlight may slow growth, while too much can cause leaf burn.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Narrow-leaved ash thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your narrow-leaved ash may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Narrow-leaved ash enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Narrow-leaved ash thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
In its native growth environment, the narrow-leaved ash plant thrives in temperatures ranging from 5 to 32 ℃ (41 to 90 ℉). It prefers cooler temperatures in the winter and spring seasons, but can tolerate warmer temperatures in the summer and fall. To adjust to colder temperatures, it is recommended to mulch the soil around the plant and protect it from strong winds. In hotter months, avoid overwatering and provide shade when needed.
Regional wintering strategies
Narrow-leaved ash has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Narrow-leaved ash is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Narrow-leaved ash should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Narrow-leaved Ash?
The sweet spot for transplanting narrow-leaved ash beautifully falls between S1 and S2, as the plant achieves optimal root establishment. It prefers well-drained soil in a sunny to partially-shaded location. Remember, though, this variety appreciates a gentle touch during the transplant process!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Narrow-leaved Ash?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Narrow-leaved Ash?
The best time to transplant narrow-leaved ash is between autumn and early spring ('/S1 - S2/'), when the plant is dormant. Transplanting during this time period reduces transplant shock and allows narrow-leaved ash to establish strong roots before the growth season starts. A little effort now ensures your plant's healthy survival and flourishing beauty in the coming season.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Narrow-leaved Ash Plants?
Let's make sure narrow-leaved ash has enough space to grow beautifully! Plan to space them about 15-20 feet (4.5-6 meters) apart. This will give each plant plenty of room to flourish without crowding the others.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Narrow-leaved Ash Transplanting?
For narrow-leaved ash, the soil needs to be well-draining. A rich, loamy base should do the job. Don't forget to prepare the soil with a base fertilizer containing good amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. This will set narrow-leaved ash up for success!
Where Should You Relocate Your Narrow-leaved Ash?
When choosing a location for transplanting narrow-leaved ash, remember it loves the sun, so aim for a spot with full sun exposure. However, if that's not possible, a location with partial shade should also work fine. Let's get planting!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Narrow-leaved Ash?
Gardening gloves
To protect your hands while handling soil and plants.
Spade or Shovel
It's necessary for digging holes in the ground and removing the plant from its original location.
Bucket or Wheelbarrow
You'll use this to move your narrow-leaved ash and its soil.
Pruning Shears
In case you need to trim any damaged roots.
Garden Hose or Watering Can
Essential for watering the plant during and after transplanting.
Mulch
Mulch will help the soil retain moisture after the transplant.
How Do You Remove Narrow-leaved Ash from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Dig a hole that is about twice the size of your narrow-leaved ash's root ball. Place some of the soil you've dug out to the side for use later.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Carefully place your narrow-leaved ash into the hole and ensure that it is sitting at the same depth as it was in its original location.
Step3 Backfill the Hole
Use the soil that you dug out to fill the hole back in. Press down lightly to remove any big air pockets without compacting the soil too much.
Step4 Watering
Use your garden hose or watering can to water the narrow-leaved ash, making sure the soil settles properly. Don't splash water on the leaves as this can induce transplant shock.
Step5 Applying Mulch
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the narrow-leaved ash but try to keep it from touching the base of the plant.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Narrow-leaved Ash
Step1 Preparation
Dig a hole that is about twice the size of your narrow-leaved ash's root ball. Place some of the soil you've dug out to the side for use later.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Carefully place your narrow-leaved ash into the hole and ensure that it is sitting at the same depth as it was in its original location.
Step3 Backfill the Hole
Use the soil that you dug out to fill the hole back in. Press down lightly to remove any big air pockets without compacting the soil too much.
Step4 Watering
Use your garden hose or watering can to water the narrow-leaved ash, making sure the soil settles properly. Don't splash water on the leaves as this can induce transplant shock.
Step5 Applying Mulch
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the narrow-leaved ash but try to keep it from touching the base of the plant.
How Do You Care For Narrow-leaved Ash After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil consistently moist without overwatering it, for the first few weeks after transplanting to ensure a strong root establishment.
Pruning
Remove any damaged or wilted parts of the narrow-leaved ash to encourage new growth and to avoid the spread of diseases.
Monitoring
Keep an eye for any signs of distress in your plant such as yellowing or dropped leaves. If noticed, it could signal transplant shock and will require extra care.
Re-adjusting
If the narrow-leaved ash begins to lean or move in the wind, you may need to stake it for support until it is more established.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Narrow-leaved Ash Transplantation.
What is the ideal time of year for transplanting narrow-leaved ash?
The best time to transplant narrow-leaved ash is during the S1-S2 seasons, which provide milder temperatures and abundant rainfall to help establish the plant.
How much space does narrow-leaved ash need when transplanting?
To give narrow-leaved ash plenty of room to grow, maintain a spacing of 15-20 feet (4.5-6 meters) between each plant when transplanting.
What soil conditions does narrow-leaved ash prefer?
Narrow-leaved ash is adaptable to many soil types, but thrives in well-drained soil. Enrich the soil with organic matter if it is poor in nutrients.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting narrow-leaved ash?
Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball. This ensures the roots spread out easily, promoting better growth of narrow-leaved ash.
What if the leaves of my transplanted narrow-leaved ash turn yellow?
Yellowing leaves might indicate overwatering or poor-drainage. Make sure the plant has well-drained soil and avoid over-saturating it.
What if narrow-leaved ash doesn't grow well after transplanting?
Ensure it has ample sunlight, well-drained soil, and proper spacing. Check for pest activities and treat if necessary. Remember, patience is key!
How much should I water narrow-leaved ash post-transplant?
Water narrow-leaved ash thoroughly after transplanting. Later, water it every 2-3 days in the first month until established, then reduce watering.
Can narrow-leaved ash be transplanted in pots?
Yes, narrow-leaved ash can be transplanted in pots given it has enough space to grow. Choose a pot that's twice the size of its root ball.
What if narrow-leaved ash shows no signs of life after transplant?
Please don't worry! Narrow-leaved ash may take time to establish itself. Ensure it's watered and under optimal conditions. If no growth shows after 2 months, consult a local nursery.
How to care for narrow-leaved ash after transplanting?
Keep it hydrated but not overwatered, ensure it's receiving enough sunlight, and clear any weeds around the area. Also, aging mulch can help retain soil moisture.
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