To water Common globe amaranth, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Common globe amaranth is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Common globe amaranth as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Common globe amaranth that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Common globe amaranth, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Common Globe Amaranth
Common globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) is an edible flowering plant native to Central America. Other common names for common globe amaranth are the makhmali and vadamalli. Common globe amaranth is commonly cultivated in landscaping for its bright colors, and is used in leis in Hawaii. Common globe amaranth attracts insects, including butterflies and bees.

Symbolism
Unquenchable love

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun






Basic Care Guide

Water
Although the common globe amaranth is drought-tolerant, it does best when regularly watered, especially during hot and dry spells. Wait until the topsoil is dry to the touch before watering, and only provide enough water to saturate its root zone. Over-watering can lead to yellowing and root rot, so only water your common globe amaranth when it needs it.
Water
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What is the best way to water my Common globe amaranth?
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What should I do if I water my Common globe amaranth too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Common globe amaranth is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Common globe amaranth is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Common globe amaranth that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Common globe amaranth, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Common globe amaranth?
Common globe amaranth needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Common globe amaranth. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Common globe amaranth grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Common globe amaranth that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Common globe amaranth a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Common globe amaranth need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Common globe amaranth. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Common globe amaranth. Typically, you should give your Common globe amaranth about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Common globe amaranth in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Common globe amaranth enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Common globe amaranth. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Common globe amaranth are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Common globe amaranth may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Common globe amaranth as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Common globe amaranth through the seasons?
You can expect your Common globe amaranth’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Common globe amaranth, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Common globe amaranth that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Common globe amaranth is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Common globe amaranth at different growth stages?
Common globe amaranth will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Common globe amaranth as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Common globe amaranth will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Common globe amaranth will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Common globe amaranth indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Common globe amaranth grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Common globe amaranth needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Common globe amaranth water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Fertilizer
The common globe amaranth does well in nutritionally-poor soil, meaning that a fertilizer is not a must. However, applying a water-soluble fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season will encourage bigger and better blooms.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Common globe amaranth?
Plants need nutrients to survive; most gardeners, regardless of experience, are well aware of this factor. However, without food, Common globe amaranth will die out soon after the first pollination. Therefore, providing the right type of nutrients in the right amounts is the best way to keep Common globe amaranth going throughout the blooming season and producing large, beautiful flowers.
Fertilizer also helps Common globe amaranth build a large, healthy root system. This plant needs all the help it can get since its root system is very thin and easily damaged. Fertilizing at planting helps Common globe amaranth build a solid root structure that not only provides stability to the plant, but also sets the stage for a sensational flowering performance. When timed correctly, fertilization can greatly extend Common globe amaranth's flowering period.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Common globe amaranth?
Common globe amaranth puts on tremendous growth early in the growing season, once the danger of the last frost has passed. It’s during this time that Common globe amaranth should be fertilized; more specifically, during planting. The idea is to apply when the plant is first planted in the ground or in planters; however you choose to plant it. This will be the only dose of fertilizer until later in the year, when blooms are in full force.
Once the season is in full swing and Common globe amaranth has opened most of its blooms at full size, it’s time to start fertilizing again. Around the time when blooms are at peak output, begin fertilizing again once every three to four weeks, as weather permits. Then, after Common globe amaranth starts to put out fewer new blooms, stop fertilizing; there’s no need to fertilize when the plant can’t produce any more blooms.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common globe amaranth?
While regular fertilizing is important for Common globe amaranth, it absolutely can be applied at the wrong time. Some situations call for holding back the fertilizer once in a while. These are usually climate related, but they also include a variety of controllable factors. Essentially, when something is wrong with the plant, the soil, or the climate, wait it out until things have been smoothed over and the plant has recovered.
An example of when not to fertilize is if there are severe or unexpected changes in the weather. If a cold nap suddenly comes in the middle of summer, wait until it’s warm again to start fertilizing. The same stands for if the soil becomes too dry or too packed to absorb anything. At this point, fertilizer will be going straight to the roots, rather than being diffused by soil before it reaches them. As you can imagine, the roots of Common globe amaranth aren’t very fond of that.
When temperatures soar during the hottest parts of the day into the 90-degree fahrenheit range, don’t apply fertilizer. Since fertilizer can be broken down at various speeds depending on temperature, it’s especially important not to allow hot temperatures to break it down too quickly. Pests or diseases should also be treated and cleared up before re-fertilizing.
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What type of fertilizer does my Common globe amaranth need?
Most types of Common globe amaranth need the same general balance of nutrients from fertilizer. These should come in the form of a fertilizer that’s formulated specifically for high-yield blooming plants. A fertilizer with a higher level of phosphorus is the best option. This type of fertilizer has a higher P number in its NPK number, for example 10-30-10.
Several fertilizer brands sell a fertilizer that’s perfect for blooming plants like Common globe amaranth, which are an easy and fuss-free way to provide the right nutrients. If you do choose to use a pre-mixed fertilizer, follow the directions on the package to prevent Common globe amaranth from getting too much or too little fertilizer, both of which can cause the plant to grow poorly or even wilt entirely.
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How do I fertilize my Common globe amaranth?
Depending on the type of fertilizer you have, specific fertilizing instructions may vary. However, there are a few general tips for applying most types of fertilizer to Common globe amaranth. The first fertilizer application, which should be when you first plant Common globe amaranth, will likely consist of mixing the recommended amount of fertilizer into the soil before planting and watering in the Common globe amaranth.
Subsequent fertilizing may look a little different. For pellet fertilizers, simply mix the pellets into the top inch of soil around the outer edge of the plant, where the roots are. Water them in very well at first, then water regularly after that. Other fertilizers may be mixed into a watering can and applied just like a regular watering. Follow any instructions on fertilizer packaging for consistency, but if you’d rather keep things on a regular schedule, shoot for every three to four weeks.
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What happens if I fertilize my Common globe amaranth too much?
Over-fertilizing is a very easy mistake to make for first-time gardeners, or even for experienced gardeners trying out a new product. Fortunately, Common globe amaranth makes this issue known very well by displaying several signs of distress. You may notice that its leaves are yellowing quickly, the foliage may wilt, or new blooms may be under-developed. These are all clear signs of too much food.
When you fertilize Common globe amaranth too frequently, you create uninhabitable soil conditions. Soil may become too hot, which is a term used to describe when soil is too saturated with minerals, nutrients, or compost, and ends up burning the roots of anything planted in it. It’s a good idea to flush out the soil well once a month or so, just by watering twice as much as normal with good drainage.
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Sunlight
The common globe amaranth is best grown in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Although the plant can tolerate partial shade, the flowers won't be quite as abundant or bright.


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How much sunlight should Common globe amaranth get per day to grow healthily?
You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Common globe amaranth needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.
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What type of sunlight does Common globe amaranth need?
The Common globe amaranth grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months.
They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Common globe amaranth is always exposed to the sun.
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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Common globe amaranth from sun and heat damage?
When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Common globe amaranth can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter.
If the Common globe amaranth is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers.
It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Common globe amaranth is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.
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Should I protect Common globe amaranth from sun exposure?
The Common globe amaranth does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall.
Growing the Common globe amaranth in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.
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What will happen if Common globe amaranth gets inadequate sunlight?
When the Common globe amaranth does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade.
Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones.
The Common globe amaranth indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.
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Does Common globe amaranth need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
When the Common globe amaranth is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.
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How much light does Common globe amaranth need for photosynthesis?
During summer or late spring, the Common globe amaranth needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Common globe amaranth is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Common globe amaranth?
When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Common globe amaranth to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day.
Make sure that the Common globe amaranth receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.
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Pruning
Pruning the common globe amaranth is easy and should be done in early spring. Simply cut away any deformed or damaged branches, or those that are growing too densely together. Pinching off branch tips will encourage a bushier growth habit - this is something that can be done once a month.

Is pruning necessary for my Common globe amaranth?
Common globe amaranth is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Common globe amaranth to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Common globe amaranth?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Common globe amaranth above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Common globe amaranth?
Common globe amaranth leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Common globe amaranth?
- Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
- Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
- Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Common globe amaranth?
Expect to prune your Common globe amaranth every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Common globe amaranth in different seasons?
Because Common globe amaranth is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Common globe amaranth can be grown as an annual or a perennial in different areas. The first hard frost of the winter will cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in the spring in warmer climates. The common globe amaranth loves the heat and is extremely drought-tolerant, but grows best when given a regular supply of water.

What is the optimal temperature for Common globe amaranth?
The best temperature for Common globe amaranth depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common globe amaranth has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common globe amaranth may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common globe amaranth will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common globe amaranth. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common globe amaranth to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common globe amaranth
If this is the first year of your Common globe amaranth outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common globe amaranth, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common globe amaranth inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common globe amaranth in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common globe amaranth should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Common globe amaranth from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common globe amaranth from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common globe amaranth in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common globe amaranth is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common globe amaranth to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common globe amaranth
During the cold winter months, Common globe amaranth needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common globe amaranth, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common globe amaranth. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common globe amaranth will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
The common globe amaranth isn't picky when it comes to soil type, but does best when planted in well-drained soil with a pH of between 5.8-6.2. The plant does well even in nutritionally-poor soil, meaning that garden soil is usually sufficient.


Planting
The common globe amaranth is easy to grow from seed, although seedlings can also be purchased as bedding plants. Seeds can be sown directly into the garden after your last frost, or in seed trays indoors to give your plants a head start.
Sowing seeds indoors: Sow seeds 6-8 weeks before your last frost, 6 mm deep in a seed tray. Once seedlings emerge in 2 weeks, they will need to be kept on a sunny windowsill. Seedlings will need at least 2 sets of true leaves before they can be planted in the garden, and should also be hardened off first.
Sowing seeds in the garden: Wait until there is no more danger of frost and sow seeds in a sunny location in well-drained soil, 6 mm deep. Once seedlings reach 2.5 to 5 cm in height, thin so that they are around 25 cm apart.
Planting in the garden: Choose a sunny location in your garden and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening, to prevent transplant shock. Dig a hole large enough for your plant's root ball, and then gently place your plant in. Fill in and firm the soil down, watering thoroughly afterwards. Applying a light mulch will help to retain moisture and prevent weeds. Leave around 18 to 30 cm between each plant.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.

2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.

3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common globe amaranth based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.



Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.

Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.

Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue

Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.

Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More About Common Globe Amaranth

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual

Spread
15 to 30 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Purple
Pink
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2 to 3 cm

Plant Height
20 to 60 cm
Name story
Common globe amaranth
This plant is related to the Cockscomb and Love-Lies-Bleeding. Interestingly, the plant typically blossoms throughout the summer and early autumn and the flowers are globe-shaped. The most common color is purple-red colored, so it is called common globe amaranth.
Usages
Garden Use
Common globe amaranth is a common material for flowerbeds and borders. Prized for its tall, bright, unique blooms, this plant is a popular garden choice for its ability to attract pollinators. It is a good fit for tropical and seaside gardens and is often planted alongside plants with similar requirements and brightness, like the zinnia and celosia.

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Common Problems
My common globe amaranth has grown too tall and is falling over! What should I do?


My common globe amaranth has very few flowers - how do I encourage more blooms?


One reason for this could be over-fertilizing, which encourages the plant to produce more foliage, instead of flowers. The common globe amaranth doesn't need much, if any at all, fertilizer, so refrain from providing too much. Over-crowding is another cause of a lack of flowers, so make sure that your common globe amaranth has plenty of space.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.








Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Common Globe Amaranth

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.



Common Globe Amaranth

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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How to Care for Common Globe Amaranth
Common globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) is an edible flowering plant native to Central America. Other common names for common globe amaranth are the makhmali and vadamalli. Common globe amaranth is commonly cultivated in landscaping for its bright colors, and is used in leis in Hawaii. Common globe amaranth attracts insects, including butterflies and bees.

Symbolism
Unquenchable love

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Although the common globe amaranth is drought-tolerant, it does best when regularly watered, especially during hot and dry spells. Wait until the topsoil is dry to the touch before watering, and only provide enough water to saturate its root zone. Over-watering can lead to yellowing and root rot, so only water your common globe amaranth when it needs it.

Water
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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Common globe amaranth?

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How often should I water my Common globe amaranth?

How much water does my Common globe amaranth need?

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Fertilizer

The common globe amaranth does well in nutritionally-poor soil, meaning that a fertilizer is not a must. However, applying a water-soluble fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks during the growing season will encourage bigger and better blooms.

Fertilizer
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common globe amaranth?

What type of fertilizer does my Common globe amaranth need?

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Sunlight

The common globe amaranth is best grown in full sun, with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Although the plant can tolerate partial shade, the flowers won't be quite as abundant or bright.

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Should I protect Common globe amaranth from sun exposure?

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Pruning

Pruning the common globe amaranth is easy and should be done in early spring. Simply cut away any deformed or damaged branches, or those that are growing too densely together. Pinching off branch tips will encourage a bushier growth habit - this is something that can be done once a month.
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How do I prune my Common globe amaranth?

Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Common globe amaranth?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Common globe amaranth can be grown as an annual or a perennial in different areas. The first hard frost of the winter will cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in the spring in warmer climates. The common globe amaranth loves the heat and is extremely drought-tolerant, but grows best when given a regular supply of water.
What is the optimal temperature for Common globe amaranth?

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common globe amaranth

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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common globe amaranth

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Soil

The common globe amaranth isn't picky when it comes to soil type, but does best when planted in well-drained soil with a pH of between 5.8-6.2. The plant does well even in nutritionally-poor soil, meaning that garden soil is usually sufficient.

Planting

The common globe amaranth is easy to grow from seed, although seedlings can also be purchased as bedding plants. Seeds can be sown directly into the garden after your last frost, or in seed trays indoors to give your plants a head start.
Sowing seeds indoors: Sow seeds 6-8 weeks before your last frost, 6 mm deep in a seed tray. Once seedlings emerge in 2 weeks, they will need to be kept on a sunny windowsill. Seedlings will need at least 2 sets of true leaves before they can be planted in the garden, and should also be hardened off first.
Sowing seeds in the garden: Wait until there is no more danger of frost and sow seeds in a sunny location in well-drained soil, 6 mm deep. Once seedlings reach 2.5 to 5 cm in height, thin so that they are around 25 cm apart.
Planting in the garden: Choose a sunny location in your garden and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening, to prevent transplant shock. Dig a hole large enough for your plant's root ball, and then gently place your plant in. Fill in and firm the soil down, watering thoroughly afterwards. Applying a light mulch will help to retain moisture and prevent weeds. Leave around 18 to 30 cm between each plant.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.

2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.

3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common globe amaranth based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Flower withering



Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More

Leaf scorch



Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More

Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Leaf rot



This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More


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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.

Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.

Symptom Analysis
- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue

Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.

Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

Prevention
- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More About Common Globe Amaranth

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual

Spread
15 to 30 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Purple
Pink
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2 to 3 cm

Plant Height
20 to 60 cm
Name story
Common globe amaranth
This plant is related to the Cockscomb and Love-Lies-Bleeding. Interestingly, the plant typically blossoms throughout the summer and early autumn and the flowers are globe-shaped. The most common color is purple-red colored, so it is called common globe amaranth.
Usages
Garden Use
Common globe amaranth is a common material for flowerbeds and borders. Prized for its tall, bright, unique blooms, this plant is a popular garden choice for its ability to attract pollinators. It is a good fit for tropical and seaside gardens and is often planted alongside plants with similar requirements and brightness, like the zinnia and celosia.

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Common Problems
My common globe amaranth has grown too tall and is falling over! What should I do?


My common globe amaranth has very few flowers - how do I encourage more blooms?


One reason for this could be over-fertilizing, which encourages the plant to produce more foliage, instead of flowers. The common globe amaranth doesn't need much, if any at all, fertilizer, so refrain from providing too much. Over-crowding is another cause of a lack of flowers, so make sure that your common globe amaranth has plenty of space.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.



















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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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