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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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FAQ

How to Care for Ruby Ball

The ruby Ball is a type of cactus that gets its name from its bright red flower. It is also called the "Moon Cactus" because of the flower's sphere-like shape. The ruby Ball is a popular houseplant that is easy to maintain and doesn't require much watering.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Ruby Ball
Ruby Ball
Ruby Ball
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Ruby Ball?

Ruby Ball is a drought-tolerant plant that does not require frequent watering. Water thoroughly when the soil is completely dry. When potted, water slowly, wait for water to flow out the bottom, and then pour the excess water from the tray to avoid water accumulation.
Spring, summer, and fall are its growing seasons. Water once or twice a week to keep the soil slightly wet. In winter, water less; just keep the soil from drying excessively; usually once a week. Besides, water with rainwater or distilled water rather than tap water.
Tap water contains a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts. Long-term use tends to cause soil compaction. Avoid splashing water on its stem when watering to prevent rotting.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What should I do if I water my Ruby Ball too much or too little?
Underwatered Ruby Ball
Ruby Ball and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Ruby Ball looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering.
It is very easy to identify an underwatered Ruby Ball. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out.
If your Ruby Ball is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly.
Overwatered Ruby Ball
Overwatering is dangerous to Ruby Ball and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example.
The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms.
It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Ruby Ball, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil.
After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy.
If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Ruby Ball. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved.
Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Ruby Ball in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Ruby Ball?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Ruby Ball. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again.
Most people will need to water Ruby Ball about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
Read More more
What should I consider when watering my Ruby Ball?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Ruby Ball needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity.
First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Ruby Ball in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Ruby Ball has shallow root systems.
Ruby Ball will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer.
This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning.
Outdoor Planting
If Ruby Ball is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Ruby Ball can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Ruby Ball kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
Read More more
How to water Ruby Ball?
The best way to water Ruby Ball is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much.
When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Ruby Ball enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged.
Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Ruby Ball, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot.
The original habitat of Ruby Ball is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Ruby Ball.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Ruby Ball?

In growing seasons (namely spring, summer and fall), fertilize ruby Ball once a month with liquid fertilizer. No fertilizer is required in winter. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer can be well mixed into the soil when repotting in spring or fall.
Use nitrogen fertilizer during seedling and phosphate-potassium fertilizer before and after blooming. The fertilizer concentration should be as low as possible. It would be better to apply low-concentrate fertilizer several times rather than to use a high concentration. If the base is yellow and grows slowly, the cause may be excessive fertilizer, and fertilization should be immediately stopped.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Ruby Ball adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Ruby Ball does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Ruby Ball adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Ruby Ball only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Ruby Ball in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Ruby Ball has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Ruby Ball?
Fertilizing Ruby Ball adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Ruby Ball?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Ruby Ball only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Ruby Ball in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Ruby Ball?
Like most plants, Ruby Ball has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Ruby Ball need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Ruby Ball?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Ruby Ball too much?
Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Ruby Ball?

Ruby Ball is a heliophilic plant and needs sufficient sunlight for its growth and blooming. It can be placed on the outdoor balcony or in the garden without shade. However, long-time exposure to blazing sunlight should be avoided in hot summer, when it needs to be shaded or cooled a little to prevent high temperatures from damaging it.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much sunlight does Ruby Ball need to grow?
Ruby Ball should get at least 6 hours of sun per day, and preferably more. An actual minimum number of hours can vary depending on the intensity of sunlight and other environmental factors, but it is unlikely that the Ruby Ball will get too much sunlight. They do fine with up to 14 hours of sun per day.
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What type of sunlight does Ruby Ball need?
Ruby Ball needs a lot of bright sunlight. As full-sun plants, they can thrive when given direct light or bright indirect sun. Some types may be able to survive with partial sun, but more sunlight is generally better.
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Should I protect Ruby Ball from sun exposure?
Ruby Ball usually grows in some of the hottest, sunniest places in the world and is well adapted to that kind of environment, so it does not need to be protected from the sun. However, you should be careful about making a sudden move into a very sunny location if your Ruby Ball is not used to it. Plants need time to adapt to different conditions, so start by moving this plant into the sun for a couple of hours at a time each day, then gradually lengthen the amount of sun exposure. Once adapted, most types of Ruby Ball will be fine in full sun and don't need protection.
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What will happen if Ruby Ball doesn't get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Ruby Ball will fail to thrive and grow. Common symptoms of inadequate sunlight include pale coloring, wilting leaves, and leaf drop. Ruby Ball may also exhibit etiolation (also called legginess). This condition occurs as the plant attempts to stretch toward the light source, leading to a sparse appearance and weak stems.
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What will happen if Ruby Ball gets too much sunlight?
Ruby Ball may develop shades of red, pink, or orange as a means of protection from excess sunlight, so many people like to cause mild sun stress to these plants during the summer. This is not harmful, and they will revert to their normal coloring when light levels decrease from autumn to spring.
If moved too quickly into direct sun, Ruby Ball can suffer from sunburn. This looks like white or brown spots on the uppermost leaves that have been exposed to the most sun. A sunburned plant should be moved to a shadier location and watered if needed. Sun-damaged leaves can be removed, and should be replaced by new growth over time.
Read More more
Does Ruby Ball need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
As with most plants, younger Ruby Ball will be more sensitive to strong sunlight and heat than a mature specimen. They should also be protected from direct sun immediately after being transplanted, either by a shade or by keeping the container in a shadier location until the plant is established and putting out new growth.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Ruby Ball?
It is best to water Ruby Ball in the morning, particularly during the summer months. If water sits on the leaves or in the crown of the plant, it can burn the plant when the water heats up. It’s also best not to water in the evening, since cooler overnight temperatures slow evaporation and fungi or bacteria can develop in the moist conditions.
Ruby Ball grown in pots should be rotated occasionally to keep them growing symmetrically. Plants will normally grow toward the light source, so they can develop much more quickly on one side than the other if they are not rotated.
If Ruby Ball is allowed to get dusty, it will not be able to access sunlight to create energy. The dust acts as a barrier, so the plant may show signs of inadequate light even if it’s in a sunny location. Keep the leaves and stems clean by wiping them periodically with a damp cloth to avoid this issue.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Ruby Ball?

Ruby Ball does not require much pruning. Remove withered flowers and branches so the plant uses nutrients on healthy growth.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Ruby Ball?

Ruby Ball is distributed throughout tropical, subtropical, and semi-desert regions with scarce rainfall, intense sunlight, and hot temperatures. The optimum temperature for growth is 20 to 35 ℃. Lower than 10 ℃ or higher than 35 ℃, growth slows and dormancy begins. The air humidity should not be too high and the environment should be well-ventilated. Avoid high humidity and accumulated water.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What's the ideal temperature for your Ruby Ball?
It is more suitable to keep the Ruby Ball in a particular range of conditions. Temperatures the same as 75-90℉ (25-32℃) are ideal for it. During the early winter season, the temperature shouldn't go below 75℉(25℃) for Ruby Ball. You can even move it indoors as it will have better protection from the extremes.
Despite that, the Ruby Ball can survive in some extreme temperatures. Sometimes can survive in low temperatures like 50℉ (15℃), but it is not ideal. You should bring it inside if winter conditions are expected outside.
Read More more
How should I adjust the temperature for my Ruby Ball during different growing phases?
Ruby Ball has different growing phases. In the first stage, the dormant seed grows and transforms into a seedling. The dormant seeds need the appropriate conditions in their surroundings to grow as their seeds need a temperature of 75-90℉ (25-32℃) to germinate. The ideal time to make it grow vigorously is during the summer, as the most suitable temperature is around 85℉(30℃). You can adjust the placement of your Ruby Ball from indoors to sunlight during the hot summer months to receive enough sunlight.
Read More more
How can I keep my Ruby Ball warm in cold seasons?
It's advisable to bring your Ruby Ball indoors to avoid the harsh winter conditions. People opt to buy different types of grow light to provide enough sunlight for the plant. However, if your home is not extremely dark, it is not essential to buy these lights. Keep your plants where they will get the most sunlight possible. There should be sufficient light to keep the Ruby Ball thriving in winter. If you have several Ruby Ball, then keep them rotating so that they all receive enough sunlight.
Avoid placing your Ruby Ball too close to the window if you live in northern areas with frigid weather. The cold may be extreme to them, due to which they might get damaged.
Read More more
What happens to my Ruby Ball when the temperature is too high or too low?
Your Ruby Ball can grow better in summers and do better in warm temperatures 90℉(32℃) but you should protect it from temperature extremes during hot climates.
However, during winter, it is better to keep your plant dry. Ruby Ball do well in temperate climates having temperatures between 75-90℉ (25-32℃). However, some gardeners can expose their Ruby Ball to extreme temperatures causing stress in their plants. While high temperatures ranging between 90℉ and 95℉(32-35℃) can help maintain the deep colors for Ruby Ball, you must be careful when trying out such experiment. During the hot summer season extremely high temperatures can burn your Ruby Ball damaging their stem and root system. During the hottest time of the day (when the temperature is extremely high), consider relocating your plant to a shaded place or protect them with a shade cloth.
Read More more
How should I adjust the temperature for my Ruby Ball in different seasons?
In summers, high temperatures make the growth of Ruby Ball slowed down to survive in too hot a temperature.
As the cooler periods and rainfall begins, the Ruby Ball starts growing. If the place you live in has hot summers and warm winters with more rainfalls, you aren't required to change anything.
However, if you live in a place with cold winters, you should let your Ruby Ball grow more in summer and rest in winter. It is because there is not enough sunlight for Ruby Ball to grow in winter.
You can help your Ruby Ball enter dormancy if you live in a place with cold temperatures by decreasing the temperature to 50℉ to 75℉ (15℃ to 25℃).
Read More more
How can I keep my Ruby Ball warm without a heating pad?
To withstand freezing temperatures outside, as a solution, you can insulate your Ruby Ball with frost cloths, row covers, tents etc. You can also mulch your Ruby Ball with small rocks. Mulching the Ruby Ball soil will provide warmth to your plants and will not let you over-water the plant.
Read More more
How can I protect my Ruby Ball from temperature damage?
Ruby Ball is adapted to sunlight and requires sufficient sunlight for healthy growth. You can place it in an outdoor environment without any shade. However, Ruby Ball shouldn't be kept for a long time in the blazing sunlight in the hot summer when it requires to be put under shade so that extreme temperature doesn't damage them. If the winter is extreme in our area, you must keep your Ruby Ball indoors to keep them away from frost.
Read More more
What are the tips and precautions for keeping my Ruby Ball at the right temperature?
Increase water and fertilizer during the growth of plants in spring and summer. Prevent your plant from receiving too much sunlight. To cool plants, spray water around them when the temperature is exceptionally high but don't put water on their stem.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Ruby Ball?

Ruby Ball grows best in fertile, gravel-rich, water-permeable soil with a pH value of 6-7. The culture soil formula often used is 60% vermiculite + 20% coco coir or peat moss + 20% sandy soil. A small amount of organic potting soil can also be added. Lightweight culture media such as vermiculite can be added to improve the air permeability of the soil. Eggshell powder or vermicompost can also be added to increase the soil fertility.
Roots of ruby Ball are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency. If the soil is poorly permeable to air and water, root rot can set in. It's easy to judge permeability: when watering, water should pass through the medium quickly, rather than stop at the soil surface and slowly seep down. Repot and loosen the soil every year to ensure the air permeability of the soil.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Ruby Ball?

In addition to the seeding mentioned above, main propagation methods include division and grafting. To divide, cut off the tip or lateral branches of the stem with a knife and plant it in soil. After a period of time, many small shoots will grow up near the cut. When a shoot grows to proper size, it can be cut off and transplanted to form a new plant.
To graft, select a suitable rootstock. Cut the tip of the rootstock, such as the stem of pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), and then put ruby Ball, with its roots removed, in the center of the rootstock and fix it with a rope. After 1-2 weeks, the two parts grow together and the rope can be removed.

Propagation

Only sow Ruby Ball seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Ruby Ball in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Ruby Ball?

Sow, plant, or repot in spring or fall when the temperature is 15 to 20 ℃ . Keep air humidity high when seeding. Use plastic film to cover the soil and remove it after the seeds germinate.
Use permeable clay flowerpots for potted plants. Too large a flowerpot accumulates water easily, while too small a flowerpot limits the development of roots. Before planting, expose soil to blazing sunlight and disinfect to kill pathogens.
If planted in the garden, ruby Ball prefers an area with full sun and loose soil. Remove all weeds and replace the soil if needed to ensure good water permeability and avoid root rot. Wear gloves or use tongs when planting to prevent your fingers from getting pricked. You can also wrap the plant in a towel to help you move it.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Ruby Ball?

Most fruits of ruby Ball are edible. Pick the fruit when they turn red. Avoid food safety issues by confirming the species with experts. Wear gloves or use scissors and other tools to harvest.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Ruby Ball?

The prime season for transplanting ruby Ball is between late spring and early fall (S3-S5), granting it ample warm months to take a firm footing. A bright, well-drained location is key for successful transplantation. Be gentle with roots, they're sensitive to disturbance. Your ruby Ball will thank you for your caution!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Ruby Ball Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Ruby Ball flourishes under an ample supply of sunrays, although it can manage if only partially exposed to rays. Its native environment is heavily sunlit, promoting healthy growth. Too little sun exposure can stunt growth, while too much can cause sunburn or stress.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Ruby Ball is native to environments with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in these warmth conditions and might require adjustment to indoor heating during winter for optimal growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
3-6 inches
The prime season for transplanting ruby Ball is between late spring and early fall (S3-S5), granting it ample warm months to take a firm footing. A bright, well-drained location is key for successful transplantation. Be gentle with roots, they're sensitive to disturbance. Your ruby Ball will thank you for your caution!
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
20 ℃
Hailing from the dry subtropics, ruby Ball naturally endures arid winters. Its winter dormancy and water-storage adaptations contribute to survival under harsh winter weather. Cultivating ruby Ball requires mimicking its native climate - indoor placement at 15°C, minimal watering, and filtered light ensure it weathers winter safely. Watch for signs of dehydration, while avoiding frost exposure, to ensure ruby Ball's vivid ruby scoring when spring arrives.
Winter Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
Ruby Ball is considered neutral in Feng Shui matters. Placed in the North, it could potentially nurture the water element, given its natural affinity to absorb and disperse energy subtly. However, remember that Feng Shui truly works when implemented as a whole, not in isolated components.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During peak growth in spring, summer, and fall, increase water and fertilizer. Avoid sunlight exposure in the heat of the summer. Spray water around the plant to cool it down when the temperature is too high, but avoid leaving water on the stem. Avoid water accumulation in the soil. In winter, water it as little as possible or not at all, and stop fertilizer.
seasonal-tip
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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2
Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Ruby Ball based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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More About Ruby Ball

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 cm
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Pink
Purple
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 cm
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Common Problems

Why is its fleshy stem thinner and thinner as it grows?

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Thin stems may be caused by insufficient sunlight, insufficient water, or fertilizer deficiency. Move the pot to a brighter place, but avoid sunburn. Increase water and fertilizer.

How do I deal with root or stem rot?

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Excess water often leads to root and stem rot. Avoid accumulated water in soil. Prune rotten roots and stems and transplant to a new flowerpot in a well-ventilated place. The soil should be loose and air-permeable as far as possible.

Why doesn't my ruby Ball ever bloom?

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Firstly, it may not be time for the plant to bloom. Time from seedling to blooming can range between 2-20 years or longer. Secondly, the plant may need more sunlight, temperature or fertilizer. Increase the exposure to sunlight and fertilizer appropriately, supplement the fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, or purchase special fertilizer for promoting blooming of ruby Ball.

Why does ruby Ball turn yellow?

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Ruby Ball turns yellow due to overwatering, insufficient sunlight, or pests. Ruby Ball does not require much water, and excess water leads to root anoxia and root rot. Generally, it does not need to be watered often. Water it only when the soil is completely dry. Remember to drain the water in the flowerpot tray. Sunlight can be increased, but avoid direct exposure to blazing sunlight to prevent sunburn. Remove a small amount of pests with alcohol. For large infestations, spray pesticide.
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About
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FAQ
Ruby Ball
Ruby Ball
Ruby Ball

How to Care for Ruby Ball

The ruby Ball is a type of cactus that gets its name from its bright red flower. It is also called the "Moon Cactus" because of the flower's sphere-like shape. The ruby Ball is a popular houseplant that is easy to maintain and doesn't require much watering.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Ruby Ball is a drought-tolerant plant that does not require frequent watering. Water thoroughly when the soil is completely dry. When potted, water slowly, wait for water to flow out the bottom, and then pour the excess water from the tray to avoid water accumulation.
Spring, summer, and fall are its growing seasons. Water once or twice a week to keep the soil slightly wet. In winter, water less; just keep the soil from drying excessively; usually once a week. Besides, water with rainwater or distilled water rather than tap water.
Tap water contains a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts. Long-term use tends to cause soil compaction. Avoid splashing water on its stem when watering to prevent rotting.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
In growing seasons (namely spring, summer and fall), fertilize ruby Ball once a month with liquid fertilizer. No fertilizer is required in winter. A small amount of slow-release fertilizer can be well mixed into the soil when repotting in spring or fall.
Use nitrogen fertilizer during seedling and phosphate-potassium fertilizer before and after blooming. The fertilizer concentration should be as low as possible. It would be better to apply low-concentrate fertilizer several times rather than to use a high concentration. If the base is yellow and grows slowly, the cause may be excessive fertilizer, and fertilization should be immediately stopped.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Ruby Ball adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Ruby Ball does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Ruby Ball adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Ruby Ball only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Ruby Ball in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Ruby Ball, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Ruby Ball can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Ruby Ball has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Ruby Ball is a heliophilic plant and needs sufficient sunlight for its growth and blooming. It can be placed on the outdoor balcony or in the garden without shade. However, long-time exposure to blazing sunlight should be avoided in hot summer, when it needs to be shaded or cooled a little to prevent high temperatures from damaging it.
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How much sunlight does Ruby Ball need to grow?
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Ruby Ball does not require much pruning. Remove withered flowers and branches so the plant uses nutrients on healthy growth.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Ruby Ball is distributed throughout tropical, subtropical, and semi-desert regions with scarce rainfall, intense sunlight, and hot temperatures. The optimum temperature for growth is 20 to 35 ℃. Lower than 10 ℃ or higher than 35 ℃, growth slows and dormancy begins. The air humidity should not be too high and the environment should be well-ventilated. Avoid high humidity and accumulated water.
What's the ideal temperature for your Ruby Ball?
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How should I adjust the temperature for my Ruby Ball during different growing phases?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Ruby Ball grows best in fertile, gravel-rich, water-permeable soil with a pH value of 6-7. The culture soil formula often used is 60% vermiculite + 20% coco coir or peat moss + 20% sandy soil. A small amount of organic potting soil can also be added. Lightweight culture media such as vermiculite can be added to improve the air permeability of the soil. Eggshell powder or vermicompost can also be added to increase the soil fertility.
Roots of ruby Ball are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency. If the soil is poorly permeable to air and water, root rot can set in. It's easy to judge permeability: when watering, water should pass through the medium quickly, rather than stop at the soil surface and slowly seep down. Repot and loosen the soil every year to ensure the air permeability of the soil.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
In addition to the seeding mentioned above, main propagation methods include division and grafting. To divide, cut off the tip or lateral branches of the stem with a knife and plant it in soil. After a period of time, many small shoots will grow up near the cut. When a shoot grows to proper size, it can be cut off and transplanted to form a new plant.
To graft, select a suitable rootstock. Cut the tip of the rootstock, such as the stem of pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus), and then put ruby Ball, with its roots removed, in the center of the rootstock and fix it with a rope. After 1-2 weeks, the two parts grow together and the rope can be removed.
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Propagation

Only sow Ruby Ball seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Ruby Ball in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Sow, plant, or repot in spring or fall when the temperature is 15 to 20 ℃ . Keep air humidity high when seeding. Use plastic film to cover the soil and remove it after the seeds germinate.
Use permeable clay flowerpots for potted plants. Too large a flowerpot accumulates water easily, while too small a flowerpot limits the development of roots. Before planting, expose soil to blazing sunlight and disinfect to kill pathogens.
If planted in the garden, ruby Ball prefers an area with full sun and loose soil. Remove all weeds and replace the soil if needed to ensure good water permeability and avoid root rot. Wear gloves or use tongs when planting to prevent your fingers from getting pricked. You can also wrap the plant in a towel to help you move it.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Ruby Ball?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Most fruits of ruby Ball are edible. Pick the fruit when they turn red. Avoid food safety issues by confirming the species with experts. Wear gloves or use scissors and other tools to harvest.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Ruby Ball?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The prime season for transplanting ruby Ball is between late spring and early fall (S3-S5), granting it ample warm months to take a firm footing. A bright, well-drained location is key for successful transplantation. Be gentle with roots, they're sensitive to disturbance. Your ruby Ball will thank you for your caution!
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During peak growth in spring, summer, and fall, increase water and fertilizer. Avoid sunlight exposure in the heat of the summer. Spray water around the plant to cool it down when the temperature is too high, but avoid leaving water on the stem. Avoid water accumulation in the soil. In winter, water it as little as possible or not at all, and stop fertilizer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The plant and similar succulent plants resume growing in the spring after winter dormancy.

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1
Water the plant once or twice a month when the soil begins drying out.
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2
An application of a balanced fertilizer every two weeks helps support healthy growth.
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3
Pruning old growth encourages blooming and branching for a fuller plant.
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4
Spring is also the time to repot the succulent if necessary.
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5
Pay attention to the temperature in the early spring, this plant requires warmth and sunlight to resume growing.
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6
Cutting off a leaf and setting it in a fresh growing medium is an easy way to propagate your plant.

Succulents like this plant are actively growing in the summer.

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1
Keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out.
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2
Continue fertilizing every couple of weeks with all-purpose plant food.
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3
The plant also requires plenty of sunlight during the day to encourage blooming.
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4
Prune back the old flowers after blooming at the end of the summer.
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5
While your plant is actively growing, you can also remove stems for propagation. Place the stem in fresh soil and lightly water it.

While your plant is starting to enter dormancy towards the end of fall, it's still growing for much of the season.

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1
Continue watering and fertilizing on a regular schedule, but reduce both of these routines as the season winds down and begins reaching dormancy.
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2
Use an all-purpose fertilizer and water the plant when the soil is dry; make sure to err on the side of dry soil rather than soggy soil.
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3
Keep making sure your plant receives enough light during this time, particularly during the morning or evening hours, which will help the plant grow well.

During the cold winter months, the plant usually goes into a dormant state.

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1
Reduce watering your plant in the winter to give it a rest and let it lie dormant. It’s best to keep the plant dry during this season, rather than risk it being soggy.
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2
Make sure it receives an adequate amount of sunlight, typically in the morning or evening, although it’s not as urgent during dormancy.
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3
Since these plants don't survive in freezing outdoor temperatures, keep them in sufficiently warm rooms indoors, away from drafts or cold windows.
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4
For the most part, you can leave these hardy plants to themselves during these colder months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Ruby Ball based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Learn More About the Stem rot more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Learn More About the Soil mold more
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering more
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
Solutions
Solutions
Measures to take to remove soil mold:
  • Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface.
  • Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth
  • Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda
Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Prevention
Prevention
Follow these practices to prevent soil mold from forming.
  • Limit moisture - avoid keeping soil damp, and allow it to dry out between waterings. Watering from the bottom of pots with drainage can allow the surface soil to stay dry.
  • Provide aeration - increase airflow around the plants using a fan or wind.
  • Repot - if the container is too small or lacks proper drainage, transplant the plant into a new, better-draining container.
  • Apply a layer of sand - apply 6 mm of sand on top of soil.
  • Use potting mix - when planting, only use potting mix instead of regular soil, as this is specially formulated for the proper moisture retention.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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More About Ruby Ball

Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 cm
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Pink
Purple
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 cm
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Common Problems

Why is its fleshy stem thinner and thinner as it grows?

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Thin stems may be caused by insufficient sunlight, insufficient water, or fertilizer deficiency. Move the pot to a brighter place, but avoid sunburn. Increase water and fertilizer.

How do I deal with root or stem rot?

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Excess water often leads to root and stem rot. Avoid accumulated water in soil. Prune rotten roots and stems and transplant to a new flowerpot in a well-ventilated place. The soil should be loose and air-permeable as far as possible.

Why doesn't my ruby Ball ever bloom?

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Firstly, it may not be time for the plant to bloom. Time from seedling to blooming can range between 2-20 years or longer. Secondly, the plant may need more sunlight, temperature or fertilizer. Increase the exposure to sunlight and fertilizer appropriately, supplement the fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, or purchase special fertilizer for promoting blooming of ruby Ball.

Why does ruby Ball turn yellow?

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Ruby Ball turns yellow due to overwatering, insufficient sunlight, or pests. Ruby Ball does not require much water, and excess water leads to root anoxia and root rot. Generally, it does not need to be watered often. Water it only when the soil is completely dry. Remember to drain the water in the flowerpot tray. Sunlight can be increased, but avoid direct exposure to blazing sunlight to prevent sunburn. Remove a small amount of pests with alcohol. For large infestations, spray pesticide.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Ruby Ball flourishes under an ample supply of sunrays, although it can manage if only partially exposed to rays. Its native environment is heavily sunlit, promoting healthy growth. Too little sun exposure can stunt growth, while too much can cause sunburn or stress.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Ruby Ball is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Ruby Ball may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Ruby Ball enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Ruby Ball require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Ruby Ball is native to environments with temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in these warmth conditions and might require adjustment to indoor heating during winter for optimal growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Ruby Ball is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Ruby Ball grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Ruby Ball thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Ruby Ball should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Ruby Ball?
The prime season for transplanting ruby Ball is between late spring and early fall (S3-S5), granting it ample warm months to take a firm footing. A bright, well-drained location is key for successful transplantation. Be gentle with roots, they're sensitive to disturbance. Your ruby Ball will thank you for your caution!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Ruby Ball?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Ruby Ball?
The ideal moment for transplanting ruby Ball is during the late spring to early summer season. This period proffers moderate temperatures ensuring less stress for ruby Ball. Moreover, transplanting ruby Ball during this season helps its roots to establish themselves before the intense heat of the mid-summer, boosting its growth and vitality.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Ruby Ball Plants?
When transplanting ruby Ball, make sure you space the plants about 3-6 inches (approximately 7.5-15 cm) apart. This allows each plant enough room to grow without blocking sunlight or competing for resources with its neighbours.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Ruby Ball Transplanting?
For ruby Ball, you'll need well-draining soil, ideally a cactus mix. Prepare the soil by adding a slow-release granular fertilizer to give your plant a brilliant start. Don't worry, it's an easy blend to find at any garden center!
Where Should You Relocate Your Ruby Ball?
Ruby Ball loves sunlight but not too intense. Try to pick a location for it that receives moderate sunlight, ideally bright but indirect light. That partial sun deck or window sill should work wonders for your plant's growth!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Ruby Ball?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands from thorns or sharp plant edges.
Trowel
For digging a hole that matches the size of ruby Ball's root ball.
Gardening Spade
To loosen the soil around the plant and help in lifting it.
Watering Can
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Secateurs
To prune any unhealthy roots or leaves, if required.
Organic Compost
To boost the richness of the soil at the new site and encourage healthy growth.
Mulch
To help regulate the soil temperature and retain moisture after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow
Helpful in transporting larger plants and soil to the new site.
How Do You Remove Ruby Ball from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the ruby Ball plant to dampen the soil which makes extraction easier and less damaging to the roots. Using a garden spade, dig a wide trench around the plant, aiming to keep the plant's root ball intact. Gently work the spade under the root ball, lifting the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the pot before you start. Turn the pot on its side, gently tap the sides to loosen the soil and the root mass. Carefully slide out the plant, if it's too tight, you might have to cut the pot away. Avoid pulling on the stems or leaves to avoid damage.
From Seedling Tray: Gently squeeze the bottom of the cell while lifting the ruby Ball at the base of its stem. Be careful not to pull it by the stem or leaves.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Ruby Ball
Step1 Preparation
Begin with preparing the new site. Dig a hole that is twice as wide and equivalent in depth to the ruby Ball's root ball. Place a good amount of organic compost in the bottom of the hole.
Step2 Transfer
Gently place the ruby Ball into the hole. Make sure it's standing upright and the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface around the hole.
Step3 Backfilling
Fill in around the ruby Ball with the soil you removed to dig the hole, pressing it down gently but firmly to remove any air pockets.
Step4 Watering
Water the ruby Ball generously right after the transplant, ensuring the soil is thoroughly damp but not saturated.
Step5 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the ruby Ball to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Make sure not to pile it against the stem, leave a little space.
How Do You Care For Ruby Ball After Transplanting?
Hydration
Proper hydration is key post-transplant. Water ruby Ball generously after transplanting, repeat when the top inch of soil feels dry. Always allow the soil to dry out between watering to avoid waterlogging and root rot.
Pruning
Trim off any unhealthy-looking leaves or stems after transplanting. This will allow the ruby Ball to focus its energy on establishing new roots.
Observation
Keep a close eye on your ruby Ball for a few weeks after the transplant process. If you see leaves turning yellow or any other signs of stress, make sure it gets the right care. Consult with a gardening expert or online gardening forum if in doubt.
Pest Control
Check the plant regularly for pests. Using organic pest control methods could be a good way to protect your newly transplanted ruby Ball from damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Ruby Ball Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant ruby Ball?
The optimal season to transplant ruby Ball falls between the third and fifth season. Transplantation during this time leads to better adaptability and growth prospects.
What are the suitable conditions for ruby Ball's transplantation?
Ruby Ball prefers well-draining soil and full to partial sunlight in a climate where the temperature does not fall below 30 degrees F (-1 degree C).
How to prepare ruby Ball for transplanting?
Gradually acclimatize ruby Ball to the outdoor environment before transplanting. Water it thoroughly a day before, so the root ball remains moist during the transplant.
What is the ideal space to transplant ruby Ball?
Provide ruby Ball a space about 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) apart in transplanting. Proper spacing will ensure their growth doesn't get stunted due to crowding.
How deep should I plant ruby Ball during the transplant?
Dig a hole that is deep enough to fully accommodate ruby Ball's root system. The top of the soil ball should be level with or slightly below the surface.
Is it necessary to water ruby Ball after transplanting it?
Yes, water ruby Ball immediately after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots. However, make sure not to overwater as this can lead to rotting.
How long does ruby Ball take to adjust after transplanting?
Generally, ruby Ball takes about 2 to 4 weeks to adjust in its new environment. Patience is key here, let it recover from transplant stress.
What kind of care does ruby Ball need post-transplant?
Provide ruby Ball with the right amount of sunlight and water. Additionally, ensure that temperatures are well regulated, particularly avoiding severe cold.
What are the signs of a successfully transplanted ruby Ball?
If the transplantation is successful, ruby Ball should show signs of new growth within a few weeks. Leaves will appear vibrant, not wilted or yellowed.
How to deal with any potential diseases after transplanting ruby Ball?
Keep an eye for any signs of disease or pests. Properly treat any infestations with suitable insecticides or fungicides, and consider consultation with a gardening expert if needed.
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