To water Common sunflower, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Common sunflower is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Common sunflower as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Common sunflower that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Common sunflower, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care Common Sunflower
The common sunflower is recognizable for its bright flower on a very tall stem. It is often grown in gardens. These flowers have been important in culture: they were worshipped by the ancient Inca people, and today, they represent eco-friendly movements. The artist Vincent Van Gogh made a famous series of paintings about common sunflowers. Wild versions of the plant branch out to many flower heads, but domesticated plants typically only have one.

Symbolism
Silent love, admiration, loyalty, long life, good fortune

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun





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Basic Care Guide

Water
Sunflowers have different water requirements at different stages of growth. The soil must be moist during sowing and transplanting. The plants need sufficient water, especially during the seedling stage. After that, the soil should be kept moist but not excessively wet. Some drought is beneficial for root growth and to develop a plant’s drought tolerance. In the summer, when the temperature increases and water evaporates more rapidly, the amount of water supplied can be increased as necessary to prevent wilting, which can affect the growth of the plants.
The time from the emergence of flower buds to blooming is the peak period of water demand in sunflowers. During this time, there should not be a lack of water; if the soil becomes too dry, it should be watered. When sunflowers are grown in pots, the plants are often large while the flower pots are small, and there may be just a little soil and insufficient water. Therefore, timely watering is required during the growth period; otherwise, the leaves tend to loss water and wither. The soil should not be too wet, however, otherwise the leaves at the base of the plant tend to turn yellow.
Water
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What is the best way to water my Common sunflower?
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What should I do if I water my Common sunflower too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Common sunflower is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Common sunflower is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Common sunflower that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Common sunflower, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Common sunflower?
Common sunflower needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Common sunflower. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Common sunflower grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Common sunflower that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Common sunflower a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Common sunflower need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Common sunflower. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Common sunflower. Typically, you should give your Common sunflower about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Common sunflower in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Common sunflower enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Common sunflower. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Common sunflower are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Common sunflower may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Common sunflower as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Common sunflower through the seasons?
You can expect your Common sunflower’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Common sunflower, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Common sunflower that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Common sunflower is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Common sunflower at different growth stages?
Common sunflower will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Common sunflower as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Common sunflower will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Common sunflower will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Common sunflower indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Common sunflower grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Common sunflower needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Common sunflower water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Fertilizer
When sunflowers are grown in pots, liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer should be applied once every 7 to 10 days. During the growth of seedlings, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to promote the luxuriant growth of stems and leaves. When budding begins, more phosphate-potassium fertilizer should be applied, which will provide sufficient nutrients to promote robust growth of the buds and facilitate blooming.
If sunflowers are planted in the garden, no fertilizer is required if the soil is already fertile. However, if the soil is relatively poor, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied during the early stages of growth and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied during the late stages, similar to that carried out for potted plants. They can be fertilized once every 20 days during the growth period, with an additional two or three applications of thin phosphate-potassium fertilizer provided before blooming.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Common sunflower?
Plants need nutrients to survive; most gardeners, regardless of experience, are well aware of this factor. However, without food, Common sunflower will die out soon after the first pollination. Therefore, providing the right type of nutrients in the right amounts is the best way to keep Common sunflower going throughout the blooming season and producing large, beautiful flowers.
Fertilizer also helps Common sunflower build a large, healthy root system. This plant needs all the help it can get since its root system is very thin and easily damaged. Fertilizing at planting helps Common sunflower build a solid root structure that not only provides stability to the plant, but also sets the stage for a sensational flowering performance. When timed correctly, fertilization can greatly extend Common sunflower's flowering period.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Common sunflower?
Common sunflower puts on tremendous growth early in the growing season, once the danger of the last frost has passed. It’s during this time that Common sunflower should be fertilized; more specifically, during planting. The idea is to apply when the plant is first planted in the ground or in planters; however you choose to plant it. This will be the only dose of fertilizer until later in the year, when blooms are in full force.
Once the season is in full swing and Common sunflower has opened most of its blooms at full size, it’s time to start fertilizing again. Around the time when blooms are at peak output, begin fertilizing again once every three to four weeks, as weather permits. Then, after Common sunflower starts to put out fewer new blooms, stop fertilizing; there’s no need to fertilize when the plant can’t produce any more blooms.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common sunflower?
While regular fertilizing is important for Common sunflower, it absolutely can be applied at the wrong time. Some situations call for holding back the fertilizer once in a while. These are usually climate related, but they also include a variety of controllable factors. Essentially, when something is wrong with the plant, the soil, or the climate, wait it out until things have been smoothed over and the plant has recovered.
An example of when not to fertilize is if there are severe or unexpected changes in the weather. If a cold nap suddenly comes in the middle of summer, wait until it’s warm again to start fertilizing. The same stands for if the soil becomes too dry or too packed to absorb anything. At this point, fertilizer will be going straight to the roots, rather than being diffused by soil before it reaches them. As you can imagine, the roots of Common sunflower aren’t very fond of that.
When temperatures soar during the hottest parts of the day into the 90-degree fahrenheit range, don’t apply fertilizer. Since fertilizer can be broken down at various speeds depending on temperature, it’s especially important not to allow hot temperatures to break it down too quickly. Pests or diseases should also be treated and cleared up before re-fertilizing.
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What type of fertilizer does my Common sunflower need?
Most types of Common sunflower need the same general balance of nutrients from fertilizer. These should come in the form of a fertilizer that’s formulated specifically for high-yield blooming plants. A fertilizer with a higher level of phosphorus is the best option. This type of fertilizer has a higher P number in its NPK number, for example 10-30-10.
Several fertilizer brands sell a fertilizer that’s perfect for blooming plants like Common sunflower, which are an easy and fuss-free way to provide the right nutrients. If you do choose to use a pre-mixed fertilizer, follow the directions on the package to prevent Common sunflower from getting too much or too little fertilizer, both of which can cause the plant to grow poorly or even wilt entirely.
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How do I fertilize my Common sunflower?
Depending on the type of fertilizer you have, specific fertilizing instructions may vary. However, there are a few general tips for applying most types of fertilizer to Common sunflower. The first fertilizer application, which should be when you first plant Common sunflower, will likely consist of mixing the recommended amount of fertilizer into the soil before planting and watering in the Common sunflower.
Subsequent fertilizing may look a little different. For pellet fertilizers, simply mix the pellets into the top inch of soil around the outer edge of the plant, where the roots are. Water them in very well at first, then water regularly after that. Other fertilizers may be mixed into a watering can and applied just like a regular watering. Follow any instructions on fertilizer packaging for consistency, but if you’d rather keep things on a regular schedule, shoot for every three to four weeks.
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What happens if I fertilize my Common sunflower too much?
Over-fertilizing is a very easy mistake to make for first-time gardeners, or even for experienced gardeners trying out a new product. Fortunately, Common sunflower makes this issue known very well by displaying several signs of distress. You may notice that its leaves are yellowing quickly, the foliage may wilt, or new blooms may be under-developed. These are all clear signs of too much food.
When you fertilize Common sunflower too frequently, you create uninhabitable soil conditions. Soil may become too hot, which is a term used to describe when soil is too saturated with minerals, nutrients, or compost, and ends up burning the roots of anything planted in it. It’s a good idea to flush out the soil well once a month or so, just by watering twice as much as normal with good drainage.
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Sunlight
The seedlings, leaves, and flower heads of sunflowers all exhibit very strong phototropism. Sufficient sunlight will make the seedlings grow strongly and healthily. During the middle period of their growth stage, sufficient sunlight can promote the growth of stems and leaves and the differentiation of flower buds. If sunflowers receive sufficient sunlight during their entire growth period, the stems and leaves grow healthily and the flowers are vivid and bright. However, if there is continuous rain or they are grown for a long time in a partially shady spot they may grow poorly and become weak. The stems will not be straight, the leaves will be soft and droop in yellow green, and the flower head will be small and irregular.


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How much sunlight should Common sunflower get per day to grow healthily?
You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Common sunflower needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.
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What type of sunlight does Common sunflower need?
The Common sunflower grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months.
They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Common sunflower is always exposed to the sun.
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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Common sunflower from sun and heat damage?
When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Common sunflower can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter.
If the Common sunflower is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers.
It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Common sunflower is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.
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Should I protect Common sunflower from sun exposure?
The Common sunflower does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall.
Growing the Common sunflower in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.
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What will happen if Common sunflower gets inadequate sunlight?
When the Common sunflower does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade.
Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones.
The Common sunflower indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.
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Does Common sunflower need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
When the Common sunflower is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.
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How much light does Common sunflower need for photosynthesis?
During summer or late spring, the Common sunflower needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Common sunflower is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Common sunflower?
When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Common sunflower to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day.
Make sure that the Common sunflower receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.
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Pruning
To ensure the robust growth of the main stem, the lateral buds of sunflowers should be removed so as not to distribute nutrients too widely and affect the growth of flowers on the main stem. If planted in a border, the top bud of the main stem can be picked off, so that branching occurs to give 4-5 blooms and the plant remains quite short and bushy. For sunflowers planted to provide cut flowers, the apical bud should be removed to facilitate the growth of lateral stems. After such treatment, several stems will be produced, and 7-10 flowers can be harvested from one plant. For sunflowers grown in pots, it is recommended to keep the primary stem and remove the lateral buds, since in this case it is better to have just one flower.

Is pruning necessary for my Common sunflower?
Common sunflower is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Common sunflower to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Common sunflower?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Common sunflower above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Common sunflower?
Common sunflower leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Common sunflower?
- Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
- Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
- Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Common sunflower?
Expect to prune your Common sunflower every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Common sunflower in different seasons?
Because Common sunflower is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Sunflowers were originally native to North America, where it is cold in the winter and hot in the summer, meaning there is a significant annual variation in temperature. Sunflowers like a warm environment. The most suitable temperature for their growth is 18 to 30 ℃, and they can happily grow as long as the temperature is not lower than 10 ℃. Within this suitable temperature range, the higher the temperature is, the faster sunflowers grow.
At different stages of their growth, sunflowers require different amounts of water, although in general they are drought-resistant. However, their soil should not be too moist since waterlogging soil can kill them. During the budding and flowering period, sunflowers should be regularly watered, to ensure better blooming.

What is the optimal temperature for Common sunflower?
The best temperature for Common sunflower depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common sunflower has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common sunflower may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common sunflower will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common sunflower. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common sunflower to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common sunflower
If this is the first year of your Common sunflower outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common sunflower, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common sunflower inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common sunflower in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common sunflower should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Common sunflower from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common sunflower from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common sunflower in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common sunflower is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common sunflower to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common sunflower
During the cold winter months, Common sunflower needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common sunflower, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common sunflower. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common sunflower will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
Sunflowers can grow well in all types of soil. However, the soil they most prefer is sandy loam or loamy soil, with a pH of between 5.8 and 6.5. Good soil drainage is crucial for the growth of sunflowers. If sunflowers are planted in the garden, it is recommended that loose and fertile loam is used, which can be mixed with decomposed compost as a base fertilizer. Quick-acting fertilizer can also be added. Soil should be dug over prior to fertilization and sowing to improve soil structure and drainage.
If sunflowers are grown in pots, their soil should be made up of peat, vermiculite, and sand in the ratio 2: 1: 1; organic fertilizers can be mixed in at the same time. Please note that sunflowers should not be continuously planted in the same soil or in soil where other plants of the same family have been planted, otherwise they will grow poorly. It is recommended that the soil is replaced once a year, or that sunflowers are grown in a different area.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Propagation
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Sunflowers are generally sown in late winter or spring and will bloom 60 to 70 days after sowing. The seeds should be sown directly into the soil, with spacing between the seeds of at least 12 cm. After sowing, a 2 cm layer of fine soil should be used to cover the seeds. Then, the seeds should be watered before being covered with a layer of mulch.
If sunflowers are sown in seed trays, deep seed trays should be used. First, place the compost into the seed tray, thoroughly water it, and wait for the excess water to drain before sowing. Sow each seed in a hole, cover it with a thin layer of soil, place the tray in a shady place, and wait for the young seedlings to appear.
Once the seedlings appear, ventilate them well, reduce the humidity and temperature, and gradually expose the seedlings to sunlight. Two weeks after sowing, the seedlings will grow to about 5 cm. At this time, the seedlings can be transplanted into a 10 cm pot and cared for until planting out. The optimum soil temperature for planting sunflowers is 15 ℃.

For sunflowers planted to be used for cut flowers, they can be harvested when the outermost ligulate flowers bloom. It is best to harvest them in the early morning when the temperature is low; they should not be harvested at midday or in the afternoon, when the temperature is high. Gardening scissors should be used to cut the inflorescences obliquely at the bottom of the stem; this can increase the area for water absorption.
The cut inflorescences should be placed in a container of clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss. If the flower cannot be placed into water immediately, the bottom of the stem should be cut again before it is placed in water to ensure sufficient water absorption. The vase life of sunflowers is 6 to 8 days in the summer and 10 to 15 days in the winter.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions


Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common sunflower based on 10 million real cases



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.



Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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More About Common Sunflower

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual

Spread
30 to 100 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
Yellow
Orange
Red
Brown

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
Inflorescence 10 cm to 30 cm

Plant Height
1 to 3 m
Name story
Common sunflower
Generally, most people think that the naming of sunflower is based on the direction of sunrise and sunset. However, this is not the case. Matured sunflower will only face the East and it will not rotate with the direction of the sun. Nevertheless, the misconception of it facing the sun has embedded deeply in people's mind. Hence, it is called common sunflower.
Usages
Artistic Value
The common sunflower is often the subject of music, poetry and paintings. The most famous painting is Van Gogh's Sunflower.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify the metal content of the soil.
Garden Use
The bright and beautiful common sunflower is a common annual in sunny home gardens. The tall stalks and large sunny blooms make it a beautiful backdrop to many other low-growing flowers in cottage and prairie/meadow gardens. Beans and squash are good veggies to grow with sunflowers, as they help balance the pH in the soil.

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Common Problems
Why do the common sunflower leaves turn yellow or wither?


Common sunflower requires plenty of water during hot weather and during their growth period. If they are not watered regularly, their leaves may wilt. On the other hand, if they are overwatered the leaves at the bottom of the plant will turn yellow. If sunflowers are being grown in pots, they should be watered thoroughly each time, until water begins to seep from the bottom of the pot. Make sure to keep the soil moist. Water sunflower plants whenever you feel the soil is dry to the touch or the flowerpot feels light.
Why is my common sunflower slow to bloom or why are the flowers very small?


Insufficient sunlight and fertilizer. Common sunflower requires plenty of sunlight, so it is recommended they are planted in an environment with sufficient sunlight. Ensuring a proper distance between plants helps with ventilation and allows them to receive enough sunlight. Excessive lateral buds on common sunflower should be removed, and fertilizer should be added to promote the growth of the main flower buds and facilitate blooming.
Why has my common sunflower become spindly?


Sunflowers may become spindly and weak if they receive insufficient sunlight, if the temperature is higher than 30 ℃, or if they receive too much water. To avoid spindly growth, attention should be paid to controlling the humidity during planting, making sure sunflowers are watered if the soil becomes dry, and avoiding the accumulation of water in the soil.


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About
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FAQ





How to care Common Sunflower
The common sunflower is recognizable for its bright flower on a very tall stem. It is often grown in gardens. These flowers have been important in culture: they were worshipped by the ancient Inca people, and today, they represent eco-friendly movements. The artist Vincent Van Gogh made a famous series of paintings about common sunflowers. Wild versions of the plant branch out to many flower heads, but domesticated plants typically only have one.

Symbolism
Silent love, admiration, loyalty, long life, good fortune

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Sunflowers have different water requirements at different stages of growth. The soil must be moist during sowing and transplanting. The plants need sufficient water, especially during the seedling stage. After that, the soil should be kept moist but not excessively wet. Some drought is beneficial for root growth and to develop a plant’s drought tolerance. In the summer, when the temperature increases and water evaporates more rapidly, the amount of water supplied can be increased as necessary to prevent wilting, which can affect the growth of the plants.
The time from the emergence of flower buds to blooming is the peak period of water demand in sunflowers. During this time, there should not be a lack of water; if the soil becomes too dry, it should be watered. When sunflowers are grown in pots, the plants are often large while the flower pots are small, and there may be just a little soil and insufficient water. Therefore, timely watering is required during the growth period; otherwise, the leaves tend to loss water and wither. The soil should not be too wet, however, otherwise the leaves at the base of the plant tend to turn yellow.

Water
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Fertilizer

When sunflowers are grown in pots, liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer should be applied once every 7 to 10 days. During the growth of seedlings, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to promote the luxuriant growth of stems and leaves. When budding begins, more phosphate-potassium fertilizer should be applied, which will provide sufficient nutrients to promote robust growth of the buds and facilitate blooming.
If sunflowers are planted in the garden, no fertilizer is required if the soil is already fertile. However, if the soil is relatively poor, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied during the early stages of growth and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied during the late stages, similar to that carried out for potted plants. They can be fertilized once every 20 days during the growth period, with an additional two or three applications of thin phosphate-potassium fertilizer provided before blooming.

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Sunlight

The seedlings, leaves, and flower heads of sunflowers all exhibit very strong phototropism. Sufficient sunlight will make the seedlings grow strongly and healthily. During the middle period of their growth stage, sufficient sunlight can promote the growth of stems and leaves and the differentiation of flower buds. If sunflowers receive sufficient sunlight during their entire growth period, the stems and leaves grow healthily and the flowers are vivid and bright. However, if there is continuous rain or they are grown for a long time in a partially shady spot they may grow poorly and become weak. The stems will not be straight, the leaves will be soft and droop in yellow green, and the flower head will be small and irregular.

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Pruning

To ensure the robust growth of the main stem, the lateral buds of sunflowers should be removed so as not to distribute nutrients too widely and affect the growth of flowers on the main stem. If planted in a border, the top bud of the main stem can be picked off, so that branching occurs to give 4-5 blooms and the plant remains quite short and bushy. For sunflowers planted to provide cut flowers, the apical bud should be removed to facilitate the growth of lateral stems. After such treatment, several stems will be produced, and 7-10 flowers can be harvested from one plant. For sunflowers grown in pots, it is recommended to keep the primary stem and remove the lateral buds, since in this case it is better to have just one flower.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Sunflowers were originally native to North America, where it is cold in the winter and hot in the summer, meaning there is a significant annual variation in temperature. Sunflowers like a warm environment. The most suitable temperature for their growth is 18 to 30 ℃, and they can happily grow as long as the temperature is not lower than 10 ℃. Within this suitable temperature range, the higher the temperature is, the faster sunflowers grow.
At different stages of their growth, sunflowers require different amounts of water, although in general they are drought-resistant. However, their soil should not be too moist since waterlogging soil can kill them. During the budding and flowering period, sunflowers should be regularly watered, to ensure better blooming.
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Soil

Sunflowers can grow well in all types of soil. However, the soil they most prefer is sandy loam or loamy soil, with a pH of between 5.8 and 6.5. Good soil drainage is crucial for the growth of sunflowers. If sunflowers are planted in the garden, it is recommended that loose and fertile loam is used, which can be mixed with decomposed compost as a base fertilizer. Quick-acting fertilizer can also be added. Soil should be dug over prior to fertilization and sowing to improve soil structure and drainage.
If sunflowers are grown in pots, their soil should be made up of peat, vermiculite, and sand in the ratio 2: 1: 1; organic fertilizers can be mixed in at the same time. Please note that sunflowers should not be continuously planted in the same soil or in soil where other plants of the same family have been planted, otherwise they will grow poorly. It is recommended that the soil is replaced once a year, or that sunflowers are grown in a different area.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest


Propagation
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Sunflowers are generally sown in late winter or spring and will bloom 60 to 70 days after sowing. The seeds should be sown directly into the soil, with spacing between the seeds of at least 12 cm. After sowing, a 2 cm layer of fine soil should be used to cover the seeds. Then, the seeds should be watered before being covered with a layer of mulch.
If sunflowers are sown in seed trays, deep seed trays should be used. First, place the compost into the seed tray, thoroughly water it, and wait for the excess water to drain before sowing. Sow each seed in a hole, cover it with a thin layer of soil, place the tray in a shady place, and wait for the young seedlings to appear.
Once the seedlings appear, ventilate them well, reduce the humidity and temperature, and gradually expose the seedlings to sunlight. Two weeks after sowing, the seedlings will grow to about 5 cm. At this time, the seedlings can be transplanted into a 10 cm pot and cared for until planting out. The optimum soil temperature for planting sunflowers is 15 ℃.

For sunflowers planted to be used for cut flowers, they can be harvested when the outermost ligulate flowers bloom. It is best to harvest them in the early morning when the temperature is low; they should not be harvested at midday or in the afternoon, when the temperature is high. Gardening scissors should be used to cut the inflorescences obliquely at the bottom of the stem; this can increase the area for water absorption.
The cut inflorescences should be placed in a container of clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss. If the flower cannot be placed into water immediately, the bottom of the stem should be cut again before it is placed in water to ensure sufficient water absorption. The vase life of sunflowers is 6 to 8 days in the summer and 10 to 15 days in the winter.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

Seasonal Care Tips

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common sunflower based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Sap-sucking insects



Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More

Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Leaf rot



This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More

Plant dried up



The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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More About Common Sunflower

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual

Spread
30 to 100 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
Yellow
Orange
Red
Brown

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
Inflorescence 10 cm to 30 cm

Plant Height
1 to 3 m
Name story
Common sunflower
Generally, most people think that the naming of sunflower is based on the direction of sunrise and sunset. However, this is not the case. Matured sunflower will only face the East and it will not rotate with the direction of the sun. Nevertheless, the misconception of it facing the sun has embedded deeply in people's mind. Hence, it is called common sunflower.
Usages
Artistic Value
The common sunflower is often the subject of music, poetry and paintings. The most famous painting is Van Gogh's Sunflower.
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify the metal content of the soil.
Garden Use
The bright and beautiful common sunflower is a common annual in sunny home gardens. The tall stalks and large sunny blooms make it a beautiful backdrop to many other low-growing flowers in cottage and prairie/meadow gardens. Beans and squash are good veggies to grow with sunflowers, as they help balance the pH in the soil.

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Common Problems
Why do the common sunflower leaves turn yellow or wither?


Common sunflower requires plenty of water during hot weather and during their growth period. If they are not watered regularly, their leaves may wilt. On the other hand, if they are overwatered the leaves at the bottom of the plant will turn yellow. If sunflowers are being grown in pots, they should be watered thoroughly each time, until water begins to seep from the bottom of the pot. Make sure to keep the soil moist. Water sunflower plants whenever you feel the soil is dry to the touch or the flowerpot feels light.
Why is my common sunflower slow to bloom or why are the flowers very small?


Insufficient sunlight and fertilizer. Common sunflower requires plenty of sunlight, so it is recommended they are planted in an environment with sufficient sunlight. Ensuring a proper distance between plants helps with ventilation and allows them to receive enough sunlight. Excessive lateral buds on common sunflower should be removed, and fertilizer should be added to promote the growth of the main flower buds and facilitate blooming.
Why has my common sunflower become spindly?


Sunflowers may become spindly and weak if they receive insufficient sunlight, if the temperature is higher than 30 ℃, or if they receive too much water. To avoid spindly growth, attention should be paid to controlling the humidity during planting, making sure sunflowers are watered if the soil becomes dry, and avoiding the accumulation of water in the soil.


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