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Basic Care
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FAQ

How to Care for Lenten Rose 'blushing Bridesmaid'

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is a Helleborus cultivar with white flowers that have deep scarlet petal tips and veining, a color reminiscent of brightly blushing cheeks. These bright flowers differ from the simple white or pink flowers characteristic of Hellebore. This late winter/early spring flowering perennial grows to a height of 60 cm.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' prefers a moist environment. For seedlings, keep the soil moist in spring and summer. plants that have been growing for many years are more drought tolerant, and can be watered when the topsoil is dry. Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' will be dormant in mid-summer, so water only to prevent soil from drying out. Pay special attention to drainage when it is rainy, as lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' does not tolerate waterlogging. Another tip is to water the soil (rather than the plant) in order to prevent pests and diseases.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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How to Fertilize Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

If the soil is already mixed with organic or slow-release fertilizer at planting, no additional fertilizer is needed in the spring. The application of organic or slow-release fertilizers once a year in later summer is good enough. If the soil is somewhat infertile or the plants are getting larger, a low-concentration fertilizer can be applied once in spring (N-P-K = 10-10-10). Fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen will suppress flowering. Avoid fertilizers during flowering or within 2 weeks after division, or the flowers may fall off.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is shade-tolerant; receiving 3 hours of light a day is preferable. Scattered or low light, even during growth, is sufficient. Planted near deciduous shrubs or trees, the foliage provides shade to it in spring and summer, while the bare branches do not block the weaker sunlight in fall and winter. If you plant lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' in containers, shade it or move it to a cooler place in summer; otherwise, the leaves may turn yellow. If you place it on the balcony in winter, it can receive light throughout the day to improve the quality of future flowers, since long periods without light lead to weaker branches and thus, no blooms.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is an evergreen plant that often retains old leaves in late winter when new leaves sprout. Cut off some of the older leaves after the new ones have sprouted. This not only keeps it aesthetically pleasing, but also helps control pests and diseases due to dense foliage.
Remove withered flowers from the base promptly after flowering to help concentrate the nutrients to leaves. The sap of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can cause skin irritation, so wear gloves when pruning. After pruning, wash the shears and gloves.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' prefers shade. The optimum temperatures for growth are 10 to 15 ℃. It can resist cold down to-35 ℃ degrees in winter. It goes semi-dormant during summer heat. As a moisture lover, it cannot tolerant either drought nor waterlogging.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Fertile, well-drained sandy soil is optimal for lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'. The appropriate soil pH is 6.5-7.5: more or less neutral. It can survive in poor soil, but adequate nutrients promote growth and bloom. If the soil is poor, improve it by mixing in potting soils or organic fertilizers.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can be propagated by seeds you harvest, but the seedlings' flowers may bloom in different colors from their parent plants. Seeds should be sown promptly after harvesting in order to germinate normally. Just keep the soil moist after sowing (without waterlogging) and let the seeds develop naturally.
Propagation by division keeps the same flower color as the parent plants. Divide plants in early spring, after flowering. Before digging up the whole plant, moisten and soften the soil. Dig as deeply as possible to minimize harm to the lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' roots. Then clean the soil from the roots, find new shoots at the base of the stem, and divide the plant into clusters with at least two new shoots. plant them immediately after dividing, keep the soil moist, and do not fertilize for two weeks. Even though lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can be propagated by division, its roots do not tolerate transplantation well, and will stop growing for a while after division.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

You can buy lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seedlings for your garden. Transplant in mid-fall, and mist the soil if it is dry. Since the roots of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' grow primarily downward and are not hardy, choose a location carefully to avoid transplanting later again. Avoid dry and windy places. In addition, as it is a slow-growing plant that takes 3-5 years to grow and flower, do not plant other fast-growing plants nearby that could invade and occupy the growing space of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'.
If you transplant lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' to a pot, choose a deep pot and place a layer of small stones on the bottom to help drain water. Make sure it is well-ventilated to prevent yellowing of the leaves, pests, and diseases. Do not forget to wear gloves during transplanting, as all parts of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is toxic.
You can also sow lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' from seed, although seeds often take up to a year to emerge. Sow 2-3 seeds every 40 cm on the topsoil in your garden, and cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep the soil moist (but not waterlogged) after sowing. Don't forget to mark the area you sow the seeds!
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Collect seeds in early summer when the fruit has turned brown, mature, dry, and hard. Wear gloves to avoid skin irritation when collecting the seeds. You can also collect seeds by covering the flowers with a paper bag while the fruit is still green, and waiting for the fruit to ripen and crack. Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seeds are best sown right after harvesting, so they'll be ready to sprout late that winter.
The life span of cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' flowers is related to the variety. Usually flowers of light-colored varieties only last 1-2 days after harvesting, while some dark purple varieties can last up to a week. Cut at the middle or bottom of the flower stem to keep some scape. It's best to cut the flowers in the early morning after the flowers fully bloom.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
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More About Lenten Rose 'blushing Bridesmaid'

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 61 cm
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Common Problems

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If I didn't plant them right after I harvested them, can lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seeds still sprout?

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If the seeds were stored in the refrigerator, yes, they can sprout with artificial stimulation. Soak the seeds in warm water (about 30 to 40 ℃), and after 1-2 days they will begin to absorb water and swell. Then sow them in pots, placing the pots in an environment at about 21 ℃. After six weeks, change the temperature to 10 ℃. The seeds will germinate successfully in another 4-6 weeks.
If the seeds were not stored in the refrigerator after harvesting, unfortunately, they will not sprout.

How can I lengthen the blooming time of a cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

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The most important factor that affects how long freshly cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' flowers last is the variety. Beyond that, there are a few tricks you can use to prolong the open time of the flowers: you can wait to cut them until the fruit begins to develop in the middle of the flowers. Cut the flowers after the anthers have begun to fall off. Unfortunately, the flowers are a bit past their prime at that point.
Four other tips to lengthen the life of cut flowers include:
  • Cut the stem diagonally.
  • Add floral preservative to the water.
  • Remove all foliage below the surface of the water.
  • Place the vase in a well-ventilated, sheltered place for a few hours to acclimate before placing the vase in the desired location.
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Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'

How to Care for Lenten Rose 'blushing Bridesmaid'

Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is a Helleborus cultivar with white flowers that have deep scarlet petal tips and veining, a color reminiscent of brightly blushing cheeks. These bright flowers differ from the simple white or pink flowers characteristic of Hellebore. This late winter/early spring flowering perennial grows to a height of 60 cm.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' prefers a moist environment. For seedlings, keep the soil moist in spring and summer. plants that have been growing for many years are more drought tolerant, and can be watered when the topsoil is dry. Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' will be dormant in mid-summer, so water only to prevent soil from drying out. Pay special attention to drainage when it is rainy, as lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' does not tolerate waterlogging. Another tip is to water the soil (rather than the plant) in order to prevent pests and diseases.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
If the soil is already mixed with organic or slow-release fertilizer at planting, no additional fertilizer is needed in the spring. The application of organic or slow-release fertilizers once a year in later summer is good enough. If the soil is somewhat infertile or the plants are getting larger, a low-concentration fertilizer can be applied once in spring (N-P-K = 10-10-10). Fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen will suppress flowering. Avoid fertilizers during flowering or within 2 weeks after division, or the flowers may fall off.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is shade-tolerant; receiving 3 hours of light a day is preferable. Scattered or low light, even during growth, is sufficient. Planted near deciduous shrubs or trees, the foliage provides shade to it in spring and summer, while the bare branches do not block the weaker sunlight in fall and winter. If you plant lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' in containers, shade it or move it to a cooler place in summer; otherwise, the leaves may turn yellow. If you place it on the balcony in winter, it can receive light throughout the day to improve the quality of future flowers, since long periods without light lead to weaker branches and thus, no blooms.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is an evergreen plant that often retains old leaves in late winter when new leaves sprout. Cut off some of the older leaves after the new ones have sprouted. This not only keeps it aesthetically pleasing, but also helps control pests and diseases due to dense foliage.
Remove withered flowers from the base promptly after flowering to help concentrate the nutrients to leaves. The sap of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can cause skin irritation, so wear gloves when pruning. After pruning, wash the shears and gloves.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' prefers shade. The optimum temperatures for growth are 10 to 15 ℃. It can resist cold down to-35 ℃ degrees in winter. It goes semi-dormant during summer heat. As a moisture lover, it cannot tolerant either drought nor waterlogging.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Fertile, well-drained sandy soil is optimal for lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'. The appropriate soil pH is 6.5-7.5: more or less neutral. It can survive in poor soil, but adequate nutrients promote growth and bloom. If the soil is poor, improve it by mixing in potting soils or organic fertilizers.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can be propagated by seeds you harvest, but the seedlings' flowers may bloom in different colors from their parent plants. Seeds should be sown promptly after harvesting in order to germinate normally. Just keep the soil moist after sowing (without waterlogging) and let the seeds develop naturally.
Propagation by division keeps the same flower color as the parent plants. Divide plants in early spring, after flowering. Before digging up the whole plant, moisten and soften the soil. Dig as deeply as possible to minimize harm to the lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' roots. Then clean the soil from the roots, find new shoots at the base of the stem, and divide the plant into clusters with at least two new shoots. plant them immediately after dividing, keep the soil moist, and do not fertilize for two weeks. Even though lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' can be propagated by division, its roots do not tolerate transplantation well, and will stop growing for a while after division.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
You can buy lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seedlings for your garden. Transplant in mid-fall, and mist the soil if it is dry. Since the roots of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' grow primarily downward and are not hardy, choose a location carefully to avoid transplanting later again. Avoid dry and windy places. In addition, as it is a slow-growing plant that takes 3-5 years to grow and flower, do not plant other fast-growing plants nearby that could invade and occupy the growing space of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'.
If you transplant lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' to a pot, choose a deep pot and place a layer of small stones on the bottom to help drain water. Make sure it is well-ventilated to prevent yellowing of the leaves, pests, and diseases. Do not forget to wear gloves during transplanting, as all parts of lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' is toxic.
You can also sow lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' from seed, although seeds often take up to a year to emerge. Sow 2-3 seeds every 40 cm on the topsoil in your garden, and cover with a thin layer of soil. Keep the soil moist (but not waterlogged) after sowing. Don't forget to mark the area you sow the seeds!
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Collect seeds in early summer when the fruit has turned brown, mature, dry, and hard. Wear gloves to avoid skin irritation when collecting the seeds. You can also collect seeds by covering the flowers with a paper bag while the fruit is still green, and waiting for the fruit to ripen and crack. Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seeds are best sown right after harvesting, so they'll be ready to sprout late that winter.
The life span of cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' flowers is related to the variety. Usually flowers of light-colored varieties only last 1-2 days after harvesting, while some dark purple varieties can last up to a week. Cut at the middle or bottom of the flower stem to keep some scape. It's best to cut the flowers in the early morning after the flowers fully bloom.
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Black spot
Black spot Black spot Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Learn More About the Black spot more
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About Lenten Rose 'blushing Bridesmaid'

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 61 cm
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Common Problems

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If I didn't plant them right after I harvested them, can lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' seeds still sprout?

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If the seeds were stored in the refrigerator, yes, they can sprout with artificial stimulation. Soak the seeds in warm water (about 30 to 40 ℃), and after 1-2 days they will begin to absorb water and swell. Then sow them in pots, placing the pots in an environment at about 21 ℃. After six weeks, change the temperature to 10 ℃. The seeds will germinate successfully in another 4-6 weeks.
If the seeds were not stored in the refrigerator after harvesting, unfortunately, they will not sprout.

How can I lengthen the blooming time of a cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid'?

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The most important factor that affects how long freshly cut lenten rose 'Blushing Bridesmaid' flowers last is the variety. Beyond that, there are a few tricks you can use to prolong the open time of the flowers: you can wait to cut them until the fruit begins to develop in the middle of the flowers. Cut the flowers after the anthers have begun to fall off. Unfortunately, the flowers are a bit past their prime at that point.
Four other tips to lengthen the life of cut flowers include:
  • Cut the stem diagonally.
  • Add floral preservative to the water.
  • Remove all foliage below the surface of the water.
  • Place the vase in a well-ventilated, sheltered place for a few hours to acclimate before placing the vase in the desired location.
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