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FAQ

How to Care for Dwarf Yellow Daylily

Dwarf yellow daylily (Hemerocallis minor) is a dwarf daylily that grows well in clumps and as a ground cover that displaces weeds. Its miniature size is what gives it the name "small daylily." The flowers attract butterflies and the plant grows in many types of soils tolerating high humidity and hot summer temperatures. It provides nice interest to perennial borders and rock gardens.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Toxic to Pets
Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Dwarf yellow daylily?

The dwarf yellow daylily is drought tolerant but prefers lots of water to stay healthy. How often you will need to water your plant will depend on your local climate, but a general rule would be around once a week.
While the dwarf yellow daylily likes to be watered, be careful not to overwater. A good tip is to test the first 5 cm of soil before watering; it should be moist but not wet.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Dwarf yellow daylily?
When watering the Dwarf yellow daylily, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Dwarf yellow daylily comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Dwarf yellow daylily too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Dwarf yellow daylily, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Dwarf yellow daylily, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Dwarf yellow daylily have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Dwarf yellow daylily. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Dwarf yellow daylily grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Dwarf yellow daylily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Dwarf yellow daylily?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Dwarf yellow daylily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Dwarf yellow daylily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Dwarf yellow daylily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Dwarf yellow daylily need?
When it comes time to water your Dwarf yellow daylily, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Dwarf yellow daylily at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Dwarf yellow daylily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Dwarf yellow daylily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Dwarf yellow daylily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Dwarf yellow daylily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Dwarf yellow daylily more water at this time.
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How should I water my Dwarf yellow daylily through the seasons?
The Dwarf yellow daylily will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Dwarf yellow daylily will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Dwarf yellow daylily indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Dwarf yellow daylily indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Dwarf yellow daylily to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Dwarf yellow daylily very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Dwarf yellow daylily?

To maintain and encourage the growth of your dwarf yellow daylily, keep the plant mulched to help its soil retain moisture, particularly in the fall and winter. You can also use a general-purpose fertilizer in the spring to aid bloomage. If using a general-purpose fertilizer, consider using a water-soluble type and ensure that the fertilizer never comes into contact with the plant's foliage.

Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Dwarf yellow daylily is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Dwarf yellow daylily will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Dwarf yellow daylily to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Dwarf yellow daylily may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Dwarf yellow daylily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Dwarf yellow daylily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Dwarf yellow daylily are relatively low. At times, a Dwarf yellow daylily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Dwarf yellow daylily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Dwarf yellow daylily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Dwarf yellow daylily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Dwarf yellow daylily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Dwarf yellow daylily.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Dwarf yellow daylily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Dwarf yellow daylily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Dwarf yellow daylily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Dwarf yellow daylily.
The most common way to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Dwarf yellow daylily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Dwarf yellow daylily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Dwarf yellow daylily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Dwarf yellow daylily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Dwarf yellow daylily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Dwarf yellow daylily?
Fertilization is important to the Dwarf yellow daylily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Dwarf yellow daylily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Dwarf yellow daylily are relatively low.
At times, a Dwarf yellow daylily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Dwarf yellow daylily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Dwarf yellow daylily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Dwarf yellow daylily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Dwarf yellow daylily?
The ideal time to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Dwarf yellow daylily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Dwarf yellow daylily.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Dwarf yellow daylily?
You should not fertilize your Dwarf yellow daylily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Dwarf yellow daylily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Dwarf yellow daylily need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Dwarf yellow daylily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Dwarf yellow daylily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Dwarf yellow daylily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Dwarf yellow daylily.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Dwarf yellow daylily?
The most common way to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Dwarf yellow daylily too much?
As you care for your Dwarf yellow daylily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Dwarf yellow daylily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Dwarf yellow daylily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Dwarf yellow daylily?

The dwarf yellow daylily can survive in a few different light conditions, from direct sunlight to partial shade. However, this plant generally prefers direct sunlight, unless there is extreme heat - this can cause the plant to dry out and wilt. Ideally, try to avoid placing your dwarf yellow daylily in too much shade because this could affect the number of flowers produced.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Dwarf yellow daylily need?
Dwarf yellow daylily needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Dwarf yellow daylily? How to protect Dwarf yellow daylily from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Dwarf yellow daylily from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Dwarf yellow daylily gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Dwarf yellow daylily and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Dwarf yellow daylily need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Dwarf yellow daylily is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Dwarf yellow daylily is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Dwarf yellow daylily need for photosynthesis?
Dwarf yellow daylily will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Dwarf yellow daylily get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Dwarf yellow daylily to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Dwarf yellow daylily?

The dwarf yellow daylily produces, and loses, flowers each day during its blooming season. This blooming season typically lasts for five weeks during summer through to fall. Although this plant is self-sufficient, some choose to deadhead the plant regularly throughout the flowering season for aesthetic purposes. To deadhead your dwarf yellow daylily, simply pinch and pluck the wilted flower from the stem.
Once the flowering season has finished, this plant will naturally die back, but a good tip is to remove dead leaves as you notice them.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Dwarf yellow daylily?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Dwarf yellow daylily to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Dwarf yellow daylily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Dwarf yellow daylily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Dwarf yellow daylily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Dwarf yellow daylily?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Dwarf yellow daylily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Dwarf yellow daylily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Dwarf yellow daylily requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Dwarf yellow daylily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Dwarf yellow daylily?
Dwarf yellow daylily doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Dwarf yellow daylily?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Dwarf yellow daylily based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Dwarf yellow daylily, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Dwarf yellow daylily?

The dwarf yellow daylily needs temperatures between 12 to 20 ℃ to flourish, but it can withstand hotter temperatures too. If the temperature is consistently above 27 ℃, then the plant may not bloom as much, or the petals will be pale in color.
The dwarf yellow daylily is very adaptable and hardy - it can withstand frost, cold temperatures, droughts, and also heatwaves. For example, the dwarf yellow daylily can typically survive in temperatures at low as -3 ℃ until it starts to die. However, certain varieties can withstand temperatures down to -25 ℃!
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Dwarf yellow daylily?

This plant can happily adapt to many soil conditions, but try to avoid heavy clay soils. The optimum soil for your dwarf yellow daylily would be a well-drained fertile soil that is loam-based, with a pH value of 6-8 (so either slightly alkaline or slightly acidic). While the soil should be nutrient-rich, try to avoid heavy soils - these retain too much water and can lead to root rot.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Dwarf yellow daylily?

The dwarf yellow daylily is best propagated through division every five years in the spring or fall. This is because the plant grows reasonably quickly, which can lead to overcrowding.
To divide your plant, dig it up to reveal its strong and healthy roots. If the root ball looks very small or unhealthy, do not divide and consider disposing of it, rather than replanting.
If the roots are healthy, then simply cut the root ball in half and plant in the soil immediately. Adding a mulch to the ground before planting will help the plant to settle quicker.

Propagation

Dwarf yellow daylily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Dwarf yellow daylily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Dwarf yellow daylily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Dwarf yellow daylily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Dwarf yellow daylily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Dwarf yellow daylily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Dwarf yellow daylily?

As this plant can reach up to 1.5 m in height and 91 cm wide, it is important to give it adequate space - a spacing of 46 cm apart works well. This is a hardy plant, so can be planted in spring, summer or fall, but will do best when planted in the spring.
Before planting your dwarf yellow daylily, mix the soil with a good amount of mulch. This will help your plant to settle in quicker and give it the nutrients it needs. When digging the hole, ensure that it is twice the size of the root ball. It should also be deep enough so that the root ball sits just below the topsoil level once planted.
If your dwarf yellow daylily comes in a packet instead of a container, it would be best to first plant it in a container inside a cold frame, before planting into the ground in the spring. This will help the plant to become a little more accustomed to the outdoor weather before planting.
While you can grow your dwarf yellow daylily in an outdoor container, it prefers to be in the soil and makes a lovely garden border. If planting in a container, make sure that the container has many drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Again, the box should be twice the size of the rootball to provide enough room for your plant. Once planted, water your plant regularly in the first month or so to ensure that it settles well.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Dwarf yellow daylily?

While the dwarf yellow daylily is not recommended for floristry, many choose to cut flowering stems for indoor bouquets. To do this, cut the flowering stem and place near a window in a vase with lots of water.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Dwarf yellow daylily?

The perfect time to transplant dwarf yellow daylily is between the S1-S2 season. This period allows the plant to establish a sturdy root system before experiencing extreme temperatures. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location for dwarf yellow daylily. Remember, consistency in watering after transplanting is key to successful establishment. Stick with trusty information and benefit from a thriving dwarf yellow daylily.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In general, this a happy plant that will survive through the winter season. If your plant is young, add some mulch around its base to help insulate it over the colder months.
seasonal-tip
care_scenes

More Info on Dwarf Yellow Daylily Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The dwarf yellow daylily relies heavily on consistent exposure to the sun's rays, promoting its healthy growth. Though it flourishes most in conditions where the sun is unobstructed, it can withstand spaces where the sun's rays are partly obscured. Insufficient exposure may stunt its growth, and excessive light might potentially cause damage to its structure and coloring.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
The perfect time to transplant dwarf yellow daylily is between the S1-S2 season. This period allows the plant to establish a sturdy root system before experiencing extreme temperatures. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location for dwarf yellow daylily. Remember, consistency in watering after transplanting is key to successful establishment. Stick with trusty information and benefit from a thriving dwarf yellow daylily.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The dwarf yellow daylily cultivates a harmonious balance, making it well-matched with Northeast-facing spaces. Its vibrant yellow color activates Earth energy, traditionally associated with this direction in Feng Shui. However, one's personal experience may differ, as Feng Shui responds uniquely to each environment and individual.
Fengshui Details
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Dwarf yellow daylily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Treat and prevent plant diseases.

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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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care_toxicity

Dwarf Yellow Daylily and Their Toxicity

Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
The lovely dwarf yellow daylily poses a serious threat to your cat, and contact may induce a medical emergency. The entire plant is toxic to cats, including the water the plant might be standing in. Nibbling on a tiny bit of the flower or even licking a few bits of pollen off its fur can throw your cat into kidney failure. Earlier symptoms include drooling, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Dwarf Yellow Daylily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 61 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Dwarf yellow daylily features bright yellow flowers and is easy to grow. It is often planted at the front edges of borders and in small groups. Its low water requirements also make it worth considering as an addition to rock gardens and naturalized garden areas. In addition, this plant can help control erosion on slopes.
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Common Problems

Why are the flowers on my dwarf yellow daylily wilting during the day?

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One of the unique characteristics of the dwarf yellow daylily is the flowers that last only for a day, so please don't worry! They will flower in the morning, wither by the evening and die before the following day. Luckily, this plant flowers a lot, so you should see fresh flowers the following day during the blooming season.

Why are the flowers on my dwarf yellow daylily brown?

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If the flowers on your dwarf yellow daylily keep turning brown, this could be because it is being subjected to extreme heat or too much sunlight, so the flowers are being scorched. This will not cause damage to your plant, but can be avoided by watering your plant more regularly and providing some shade.

Why is my dwarf yellow daylily not blooming?

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If it is currently blooming season, but your plant will not bloom, this may be due to your dwarf yellow daylily having too much shade and not enough sunlight. If possible, ensure that your plant has more daylight and it should start to bloom the following growing season.
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Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily
Dwarf yellow daylily

How to Care for Dwarf Yellow Daylily

Dwarf yellow daylily (Hemerocallis minor) is a dwarf daylily that grows well in clumps and as a ground cover that displaces weeds. Its miniature size is what gives it the name "small daylily." The flowers attract butterflies and the plant grows in many types of soils tolerating high humidity and hot summer temperatures. It provides nice interest to perennial borders and rock gardens.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Pets
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The dwarf yellow daylily is drought tolerant but prefers lots of water to stay healthy. How often you will need to water your plant will depend on your local climate, but a general rule would be around once a week.
While the dwarf yellow daylily likes to be watered, be careful not to overwater. A good tip is to test the first 5 cm of soil before watering; it should be moist but not wet.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
To maintain and encourage the growth of your dwarf yellow daylily, keep the plant mulched to help its soil retain moisture, particularly in the fall and winter. You can also use a general-purpose fertilizer in the spring to aid bloomage. If using a general-purpose fertilizer, consider using a water-soluble type and ensure that the fertilizer never comes into contact with the plant's foliage.
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Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Dwarf yellow daylily is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Dwarf yellow daylily will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Dwarf yellow daylily to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Dwarf yellow daylily may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Dwarf yellow daylily for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Dwarf yellow daylily and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Dwarf yellow daylily are relatively low. At times, a Dwarf yellow daylily may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Dwarf yellow daylily, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Dwarf yellow daylily to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Dwarf yellow daylily look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Dwarf yellow daylily will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Dwarf yellow daylily.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Dwarf yellow daylily. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Dwarf yellow daylily is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Dwarf yellow daylily. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Dwarf yellow daylily.
The most common way to fertilize a Dwarf yellow daylily is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Dwarf yellow daylily, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Dwarf yellow daylily is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Dwarf yellow daylily to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Dwarf yellow daylily during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Dwarf yellow daylily will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The dwarf yellow daylily can survive in a few different light conditions, from direct sunlight to partial shade. However, this plant generally prefers direct sunlight, unless there is extreme heat - this can cause the plant to dry out and wilt. Ideally, try to avoid placing your dwarf yellow daylily in too much shade because this could affect the number of flowers produced.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
The dwarf yellow daylily produces, and loses, flowers each day during its blooming season. This blooming season typically lasts for five weeks during summer through to fall. Although this plant is self-sufficient, some choose to deadhead the plant regularly throughout the flowering season for aesthetic purposes. To deadhead your dwarf yellow daylily, simply pinch and pluck the wilted flower from the stem.
Once the flowering season has finished, this plant will naturally die back, but a good tip is to remove dead leaves as you notice them.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The dwarf yellow daylily needs temperatures between 12 to 20 ℃ to flourish, but it can withstand hotter temperatures too. If the temperature is consistently above 27 ℃, then the plant may not bloom as much, or the petals will be pale in color.
The dwarf yellow daylily is very adaptable and hardy - it can withstand frost, cold temperatures, droughts, and also heatwaves. For example, the dwarf yellow daylily can typically survive in temperatures at low as -3 ℃ until it starts to die. However, certain varieties can withstand temperatures down to -25 ℃!
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
This plant can happily adapt to many soil conditions, but try to avoid heavy clay soils. The optimum soil for your dwarf yellow daylily would be a well-drained fertile soil that is loam-based, with a pH value of 6-8 (so either slightly alkaline or slightly acidic). While the soil should be nutrient-rich, try to avoid heavy soils - these retain too much water and can lead to root rot.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
The dwarf yellow daylily is best propagated through division every five years in the spring or fall. This is because the plant grows reasonably quickly, which can lead to overcrowding.
To divide your plant, dig it up to reveal its strong and healthy roots. If the root ball looks very small or unhealthy, do not divide and consider disposing of it, rather than replanting.
If the roots are healthy, then simply cut the root ball in half and plant in the soil immediately. Adding a mulch to the ground before planting will help the plant to settle quicker.
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Propagation

Dwarf yellow daylily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Dwarf yellow daylily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Dwarf yellow daylily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Dwarf yellow daylily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Dwarf yellow daylily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Dwarf yellow daylily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
As this plant can reach up to 1.5 m in height and 91 cm wide, it is important to give it adequate space - a spacing of 46 cm apart works well. This is a hardy plant, so can be planted in spring, summer or fall, but will do best when planted in the spring.
Before planting your dwarf yellow daylily, mix the soil with a good amount of mulch. This will help your plant to settle in quicker and give it the nutrients it needs. When digging the hole, ensure that it is twice the size of the root ball. It should also be deep enough so that the root ball sits just below the topsoil level once planted.
If your dwarf yellow daylily comes in a packet instead of a container, it would be best to first plant it in a container inside a cold frame, before planting into the ground in the spring. This will help the plant to become a little more accustomed to the outdoor weather before planting.
While you can grow your dwarf yellow daylily in an outdoor container, it prefers to be in the soil and makes a lovely garden border. If planting in a container, make sure that the container has many drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged. Again, the box should be twice the size of the rootball to provide enough room for your plant. Once planted, water your plant regularly in the first month or so to ensure that it settles well.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Dwarf yellow daylily?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
While the dwarf yellow daylily is not recommended for floristry, many choose to cut flowering stems for indoor bouquets. To do this, cut the flowering stem and place near a window in a vase with lots of water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Dwarf yellow daylily?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The perfect time to transplant dwarf yellow daylily is between the S1-S2 season. This period allows the plant to establish a sturdy root system before experiencing extreme temperatures. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location for dwarf yellow daylily. Remember, consistency in watering after transplanting is key to successful establishment. Stick with trusty information and benefit from a thriving dwarf yellow daylily.
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In general, this a happy plant that will survive through the winter season. If your plant is young, add some mulch around its base to help insulate it over the colder months.
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More Info on Dwarf Yellow Daylily Growth and Care

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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Dwarf yellow daylily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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care_toxicity

Dwarf Yellow Daylily and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Toxic to Cats
The lovely dwarf yellow daylily poses a serious threat to your cat, and contact may induce a medical emergency. The entire plant is toxic to cats, including the water the plant might be standing in. Nibbling on a tiny bit of the flower or even licking a few bits of pollen off its fur can throw your cat into kidney failure. Earlier symptoms include drooling, vomiting, and loss of appetite.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Dwarf Yellow Daylily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 61 cm

Usages

Garden Use
Dwarf yellow daylily features bright yellow flowers and is easy to grow. It is often planted at the front edges of borders and in small groups. Its low water requirements also make it worth considering as an addition to rock gardens and naturalized garden areas. In addition, this plant can help control erosion on slopes.
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Common Problems

Why are the flowers on my dwarf yellow daylily wilting during the day?

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One of the unique characteristics of the dwarf yellow daylily is the flowers that last only for a day, so please don't worry! They will flower in the morning, wither by the evening and die before the following day. Luckily, this plant flowers a lot, so you should see fresh flowers the following day during the blooming season.

Why are the flowers on my dwarf yellow daylily brown?

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If the flowers on your dwarf yellow daylily keep turning brown, this could be because it is being subjected to extreme heat or too much sunlight, so the flowers are being scorched. This will not cause damage to your plant, but can be avoided by watering your plant more regularly and providing some shade.

Why is my dwarf yellow daylily not blooming?

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If it is currently blooming season, but your plant will not bloom, this may be due to your dwarf yellow daylily having too much shade and not enough sunlight. If possible, ensure that your plant has more daylight and it should start to bloom the following growing season.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The dwarf yellow daylily relies heavily on consistent exposure to the sun's rays, promoting its healthy growth. Though it flourishes most in conditions where the sun is unobstructed, it can withstand spaces where the sun's rays are partly obscured. Insufficient exposure may stunt its growth, and excessive light might potentially cause damage to its structure and coloring.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Dwarf yellow daylily thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Dwarf yellow daylily may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Dwarf yellow daylily enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Dwarf yellow daylily thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Dwarf Yellow Daylily?
The perfect time to transplant dwarf yellow daylily is between the S1-S2 season. This period allows the plant to establish a sturdy root system before experiencing extreme temperatures. Choose a sunny or partially shaded location for dwarf yellow daylily. Remember, consistency in watering after transplanting is key to successful establishment. Stick with trusty information and benefit from a thriving dwarf yellow daylily.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Dwarf Yellow Daylily?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Dwarf Yellow Daylily?
The prime season for transplanting dwarf yellow daylily is late summer or early fall (S1-S2). This timing offers the plant ample time to establish roots before winter. Performing this action during these months enhances vegetation vigor and health, providing dwarf yellow daylily with a solid start for sprouting in the spring. With a friendly tone, we encourage you to consider this period as it ensures dwarf yellow daylily thrives and blossoms beautifully.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Dwarf Yellow Daylily Plants?
When transplanting dwarf yellow daylily, keep their bases 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart from one another. This much room allows them enough space to grow without creating competition for necessary resources.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Dwarf Yellow Daylily Transplanting?
As a part of your pre-transplantation preparations, prepare the soil using a mixture of well-drained loam soil and compost as a base fertilizer. This will create the nutrient-rich environment your dwarf yellow daylily needs to thrive.
Where Should You Relocate Your Dwarf Yellow Daylily?
For your dwarf yellow daylily to flourish, choose a spot that receives a lot of sunlight. If you've got an area that gets sun for most of the day, this would be your best bet!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Dwarf Yellow Daylily?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the plant and the soil.
Shovel or a Garden Trowel
Used for digging and transplanting dwarf yellow daylily, making sure not to damage the root ball.
Watering Can
To provide sufficient water to the plant both before and after transplanting.
Garden Fork
It's useful to loosen the soil at the new location prior to transplanting.
Mulch
After transplanting dwarf yellow daylily, mulch helps retain moisture in the soil around the plant.
Organic Fertilizer
Essential for providing vital nutrients to the plant after transplanting. While we avoid discussing fertilizer types, it's good to note that this will eventually be necessary for the plant's health.
How Do You Remove Dwarf Yellow Daylily from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the dwarf yellow daylily plant to moisten the soil, which makes it easier to remove. Carefully dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring you don't damage the root ball. Loosen the earth around the roots with a garden fork and then gently work the spade under the root ball to free the plant.
From Pot: If transplanting from a pot, water the plant first, then turn the pot sideways while your hand is on the soil with the dwarf yellow daylily's stems between your fingers. Gently pull off the pot while holding the root ball. Remember to handle the plant by its root ball and not by its stems to prevent damage.
From Seedling Tray: Once the dwarf yellow daylily seedling is big enough to handle, moisten the soil, and use a spoon or a plant label to lift it out from the tray, making sure to keep as many roots intact as possible. Handle the seedling by its leaves to avoid damaging the stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Dwarf Yellow Daylily
Hole Preparation
Dig a hole in the chosen location that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of dwarf yellow daylily. Loosen the soil at the bottom with a garden fork.
Placing the Plant
Gently place the plant in the hole, making sure it's level with the soil surface. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the ground level to allow for settling.
Backfilling
Carefully backfill the hole with the soil that's been dug out, firming the soil gently but firmly around the plant's base.
Watering
Immediately after backfilling, water generously to help settle the soil around the roots. Allow the water to fully drain into the soil.
Mulching
Spread a layer of mulch around the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the stem. This will help retain moisture and suppress weeds.
How Do You Care For Dwarf Yellow Daylily After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Check dwarf yellow daylily daily for any signs of transplant shock such as wilting or discolored leaves. If observed, keep the plant well-watered but avoid over-watering.
Pruning
If you see any parts of dwarf yellow daylily that seem to be struggling or dying after the transplant, remove these parts to help the plant focus its energy on new growth.
Fertilizing
Wait 4-6 weeks before adding slow-release organic fertilizer to allow dwarf yellow daylily to settle in. Too much too soon can burn the roots.
Continued Care
Ensure your dwarf yellow daylily continues to receive appropriate care as described earlier:regular watering (but don't overwater), exposed to sufficient sunlight according to previous sections, etc. Always remember, patience is the key to a successful transplant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Dwarf Yellow Daylily Transplantation.
What's the best time of year to relocate dwarf yellow daylily?
The ideal transplanting time for dwarf yellow daylily is during S1-S2. They can handle the changing weather, giving them a great start in their new home.
How much space should I leave between my dwarf yellow daylily when transplanting?
Aim for a comfortable distance of around 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each plant. This distance allows dwarf yellow daylily to grow without crowding each other.
How deep should the hole be when transplanting dwarf yellow daylily?
Prepare a hole twice as wide as the plant's root ball and just as deep. This gives the roots plenty of space to expand and anchor in their new home.
How can I ensure my dwarf yellow daylily establishes successfully after transplanting?
After transplanting dwarf yellow daylily, water it thoroughly. Over the next few weeks, pay careful attention to its watering needs and protect from extreme weather to ensure successful establishment.
What should I do if the leaves of my transplanted dwarf yellow daylily start to wilt?
Wilting might indicate water stress. Adjust your watering schedule and ensure your dwarf yellow daylily isn't in too harsh sunlight. Remember, patience is key during the process.
How do I prepare the soil for dwarf yellow daylily transplanting?
Before transplanting, loosen the soil, removing any debris. Incorporate some organic matter like compost to enrich it, providing a nourishing environment for the dwarf yellow daylily.
My transplanted dwarf yellow daylily doesn't seem to be growing. What might be wrong?
Remember, dwarf yellow daylily takes time to establish. Allow a few weeks before expecting visible growth. If the problem persists, check your watering routine or soil condition.
Do I need to prune dwarf yellow daylily before transplanting?
Trimming back foliage can reduce stress during transplanting. However, with dwarf yellow daylily, pruning isn't mandatory. If the plant looks overly large, consider a light pruning.
How long does dwarf yellow daylily take to establish after transplanting?
Depending on the conditions, dwarf yellow daylily usually takes 2-3 weeks to settle in their new spot. Don't be alarmed if growth is slow initially; it's part of the process.
Do I need to fertilize dwarf yellow daylily immediately after transplanting?
Not immediately. Initially, water well and let the plant settle. After a couple of weeks, adding a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can promote healthy growth in dwarf yellow daylily.
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