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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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FAQ

How to Care for Paleface

Paleface (Hibiscus denudatus), also known as Rock hibiscus, is a perennial shrub-like herb with messy vertical branches, small fuzzy leaves, and white to pink cup-shaped flowers. It is native to the southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico. Flowering usually lasts throughout the late summer. The pale leaves are often lost during droughts.
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Paleface
Paleface
Paleface
Paleface
Paleface
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Paleface?

Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.
Swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) requires more water and is resilient in damp conditions; it is better to water it every day in summer as long as soil drainage is ensured. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is relatively resistant to drought and should be thoroughly watered when the soil is dry.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Paleface?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Paleface prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Paleface too much/too little?
An overwatered Paleface can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Paleface recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Paleface indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Paleface outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Paleface?
The Paleface likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Paleface generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Paleface?
The Paleface generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Paleface is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Paleface is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Paleface continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Paleface a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Paleface according to different seasons or climates?
The Paleface needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Paleface to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Paleface will need less water during the winter. Since the Paleface will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Paleface growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Paleface can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Paleface and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Paleface’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Paleface’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Paleface in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Paleface mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Paleface in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Paleface begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Paleface important?
Watering the Paleface helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Paleface thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Paleface?

Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Paleface prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Paleface?

Paleface likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Paleface get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Paleface receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Paleface need?
Paleface does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Paleface? How to protect Paleface from the sun and heat damage?
Paleface planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Paleface during extreme weather events.
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Does Paleface need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Paleface from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Paleface, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Paleface to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Paleface gets inadequate sunlight?
When Paleface receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Paleface receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Paleface need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Paleface and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Paleface fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Paleface?
Recently transplanted Paleface will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Paleface drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Paleface that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Paleface?

Paleface generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Paleface?

Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Paleface?
The best temperature for Paleface to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Paleface during different growing phases?
Research shows that Paleface will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Paleface warm in cold seasons?
Paleface can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Paleface suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Paleface if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Paleface gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Paleface gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Paleface?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Paleface healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
Read More more
How can I keep Paleface warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Paleface, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Paleface with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Paleface in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Paleface is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Paleface from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Paleface extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Paleface in different seasons?
Paleface is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Paleface?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Paleface in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Paleface?

Paleface like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Paleface?

Paleface can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Paleface?

The best planting season for paleface is during fall while it is still warm. This allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting paleface, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Paleface?

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Paleface?

Needs excellent drainage in pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Paleface planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.
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care_scenes

More Info on Paleface Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Lighting
Full sun
Paleface thrives under conditions where sunlight is plentiful, though it can also adapt to areas where the sun's rays are partially diffused. Its growth and health are optimal when it gets a generous amount of light daily. In its native habitat, it is found in environs bathed in abundant light. However, too much light can lead to stress, while too little light may stunt its growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-10 - 41 ℃
Paleface is native to environments with a temperature range of 59 to 95°F (15 to 35°C). Its thermal preferences can significantly impact its growth and survival, making it desirable to adjust outdoor settings, particularly during seasons with temperature extremes.
Temp for Healthy Growth
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Paleface based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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More About Paleface

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 100 cm
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Common Problems

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Why are there so few flowers?

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There are many reasons for limited flowering:
  1. Paleface likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
  2. If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
  3. Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

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  1. Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
  2. Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
  3. Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. This yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.

Why do the buds fall off?

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  1. Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. This can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
  2. High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
  3. Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
  4. Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
  5. Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.
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About
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Paleface
Paleface
Paleface
Paleface
Paleface

How to Care for Paleface

Paleface (Hibiscus denudatus), also known as Rock hibiscus, is a perennial shrub-like herb with messy vertical branches, small fuzzy leaves, and white to pink cup-shaped flowers. It is native to the southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico. Flowering usually lasts throughout the late summer. The pale leaves are often lost during droughts.
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
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Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Paleface?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.
Swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) requires more water and is resilient in damp conditions; it is better to water it every day in summer as long as soil drainage is ensured. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is relatively resistant to drought and should be thoroughly watered when the soil is dry.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Paleface?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Paleface prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Paleface?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Paleface likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.
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Can sunlight damage Paleface? How to protect Paleface from the sun and heat damage?
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Does Paleface need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Paleface from the sun?
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Paleface?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Paleface generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
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Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Paleface?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
What is the optimal temperature for Paleface?
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Should I adjust the temperature for Paleface during different growing phases?
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How can I keep Paleface warm in cold seasons?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Paleface?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Paleface like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Paleface?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Paleface can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Paleface?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The best planting season for paleface is during fall while it is still warm. This allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting paleface, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Paleface?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Paleface?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Paleface planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.
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More Info on Paleface Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Paleface based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More About the Wilting after blooming more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Paleface

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 100 cm
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Common Problems

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Why are there so few flowers?

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There are many reasons for limited flowering:
  1. Paleface likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
  2. If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
  3. Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

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  1. Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
  2. Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
  3. Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. This yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.

Why do the buds fall off?

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  1. Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. This can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
  2. High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
  3. Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
  4. Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
  5. Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Paleface thrives under conditions where sunlight is plentiful, though it can also adapt to areas where the sun's rays are partially diffused. Its growth and health are optimal when it gets a generous amount of light daily. In its native habitat, it is found in environs bathed in abundant light. However, too much light can lead to stress, while too little light may stunt its growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Paleface thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Paleface may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Paleface enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Paleface thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Paleface is native to environments with a temperature range of 59 to 95°F (15 to 35°C). Its thermal preferences can significantly impact its growth and survival, making it desirable to adjust outdoor settings, particularly during seasons with temperature extremes.
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