Your Confederate rose will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Confederate rose. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Confederate rose. However, the Confederate rose usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Confederate Rose
A unique feature of the confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is its color-changing flowers. This shrubby rose bush blooms starting as white in the morning, turn pink at midday, and end red by the end of the day. This is a common plant species and although it is native to Southeast China, it can now be found on every continent except Antarctica.

Symbolism
Beauty, charm, youth, first love and the shortness of life

Water
Every 1-2 weeks


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.


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What is the best way to water my Confederate rose?
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What should I do if I water my Confederate rose too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Confederate rose can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Confederate rose is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Confederate rose, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Confederate rose from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Confederate rose in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Confederate rose, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Confederate rose?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Confederate rose is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Confederate rose. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Confederate rose .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Confederate rose need?
When it comes time to water your Confederate rose, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Confederate rose by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Confederate rose gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Confederate rose is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Confederate rose is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Confederate rose a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Confederate rose enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Confederate rose, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Confederate rose will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Confederate rose will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Confederate rose.
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How can I water my Confederate rose at different growth stages?
When the Confederate rose is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Confederate rose that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Confederate rose can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Confederate rose is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Confederate rose through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Confederate rose. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Confederate rose will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Confederate rose indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Confederate rose may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Fertilizer
Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Confederate rose prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Confederate rose?
You need to fertilize a Confederate rose for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Confederate rose produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Confederate rose has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Confederate rose plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Confederate rose some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Confederate rose hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Confederate rose?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Confederate rose. If you use fertilizer too early while the Confederate rose is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Confederate rose?
Avoid giving Confederate rose a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Confederate rose should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Confederate rose can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Confederate rose need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Confederate rose is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Confederate rose 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Confederate rose. However, some of the best fertilizers for Confederate rose come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Confederate rose.
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How do I fertilize my Confederate rose?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Confederate rose you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Confederate rose, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Confederate rose too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Confederate rose may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Confederate rose will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Confederate rose to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
Confederate rose likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.


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How much/long should Confederate rose get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Confederate rose receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Confederate rose need?
Confederate rose does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Confederate rose? How to protect Confederate rose from the sun and heat damage?
Confederate rose planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Confederate rose during extreme weather events.
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Does Confederate rose need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Confederate rose from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Confederate rose, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Confederate rose to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Confederate rose gets inadequate sunlight?
When Confederate rose receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Confederate rose receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Confederate rose need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Confederate rose and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Confederate rose fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Confederate rose?
Recently transplanted Confederate rose will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Confederate rose drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Confederate rose that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Confederate rose generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.

Is pruning necessary for my Confederate rose?
Before your Confederate rose hedge begins taking over the sidewalk, or your hanging basket Confederate roses start to look scraggly, it is a good idea to think about pruning. Without proper maintenance, Confederate rose may grow rapidly and uncontrollably, crowding out other plants. If you decide to include Confederate rose in your garden or landscaping plan, you should monitor its growth carefully and have a plan for pruning. Pruning is as important for the Confederate rose as it is for any other ornamental plant species that you may choose to grow in your garden. If you prune this plant properly, you can enhance its overall health while preserving its most showy ornamental features. With that said, you cannot expect to reap those benefits if you don’t know when and how to prune this species. In fact, improper pruning can cause you to remove the season’s blooms, detracting significantly from the Confederate rose’s beauty. Even if you live in a cooler area or only plan to grow Confederate rose in pots or hanging baskets, regular pruning can encourage blooming and keep your plants healthy and vigorous.
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When is the best time to prune my Confederate rose?
As Confederate rose blooms earlier than normal plants, pruning should also be earlier. What you should do instead is wait until the late spring or early summer to prune if you want to prune your Confederate rose on a large scale. The ideal time for pruning takes place at the end or just after this plant’s bloom period. Also, you should avoid pruning late in summer and into fall, pruning at this time may affect the flowering of plants the following year. Additionally, you may want to trim the plants throughout the growing season to encourage blooming. You can also prune at any time if there is any yellowing or diseased foliage.
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How can I prune my Confederate rose?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. Remove any dead or decayed stems first, cutting them off just above the damaged section or cutting them completely to the ground. Next, consider the desired height and shape of your Confederate rose, and then prune accordingly. To control the size of your Confederate rose, you can cut back as much as one third of its height and girth, and it is best done by pruning immediately after flowering Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Confederate rose?
Confederate rose is generally tolerant of limited water and may become mildewy with too much water. Right after pruning is a good time to water and fertilizer though, to encourage new growth and blooming. However, care needs to be taken to avoid wounded areas when watering to avoid fungal infestation of the plant through fresh wounds. When you are ready to dispose of sections of the plant that you removed during pruning, there are two important things to keep in mind. Confederate rose leaves or branches found to be diseased need to be trimmed off and destroyed away from the plant. Do not used as compost material. Wherever you dispose of the trimmings, remember that Confederate rose roots and spreads easily. Be careful that your trimmings do not inadvertently produce new, unwanted Confederate rose.
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What are some tips for pruning my Confederate rose?
From hedges to containers, in any landscape or garden, annual pruning and regular trims can encourage Confederate rose produce beautiful blooms and remain healthy for many years. For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. As you are pruning your Confederate rose, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. Try not to prune heavily at flowering time, just the dried flowers need to be pruned back as this will affect flowering. A useful approach is to remove only the longer branches and sucker shoots, leaving the blooms closer to the primary stems intact. Finally, as you prune, be on the lookout for mold or mildew. Confederate rose is susceptible to fungal or bacterial and you will want to address this problem, removing molded or fungal(bacterial) sections to avoid further damage to your Confederate rose.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.

What is the optimal temperature for Confederate rose?
Colder temperatures can affect plants since they have the same temperature as the air around them. When they are exposed to the sun, they can start to get warm again, but this is not the case during winter. The temperature range for the Confederate rose is often 70~85℉(21~30℃). They might tolerate 20~30℉(-6~0℃) even 15℉(-10℃), but not for long since this can result in frost damage. Maximum temperatures should be around 70~85℉(21~30℃), but make sure that you spray them with water from time to time and give them some shade to prevent wilting.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Confederate rose during different growing phases?
Do some research and make sure that the temperature is right when growing Confederate rose. Some growers might consider decreasing the plants' thermostats during the growing season to reduce HVAC costs. However, it's vital to understand that the temperature can affect the flowering, pest management, and quality of the plants.
There will be a temperature point where the Confederate rose will stop growing, and this can happen during the winter when some species might go into a dormant state. The base temperature becomes warmer when the season changes and the Confederate rose can grow faster. The species that are naturally growing in warm habitats have higher optimum temperatures when you compare them to the ones that thrive in a cooler climate.
When the seeds of Confederate rose are exposed to cool temperatures, this can cause a decrease in uniformity and delays. You might also want to lower the temperature during flowering but not at other phases. Cooler temperatures at night will also require less water, so adjust the irrigation as needed.
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How can I keep Confederate rose warm in cold seasons?
Stop fertilizing the plant to avoid new growth and allow the old ones to become hardy. This way, they can endure colder temperature when it begins to drop. To keep them warm, you can build structures around the Confederate rose like cages or trellises. There are also options to use heat mats that can gently warm the soil since they can consistently maintain an ideal temperature range for the Confederate rose.
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How can I save Confederate rose from temperature damage?
During winter, you can protect the Confederate rose from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets. Make sure to keep them down so they continue to act as insulators and the wind will not blow them away. However, ensure that the plastic sheets or burlap covers should not touch any part of the fruit or foliage, or the cold temperatures can transfer to the material and cause burns. When the temperatures begin to rise during the daytime, remove the covers.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Confederate rose in different seasons?
When growing the Confederate rose in spring, you might want to increase humidity since the air temperature tends to be cooler at this time. A dry temperature can be a stressful growing environment for various species, which can help. If summer arrives, the large cover of the greenhouse and the warm temperature will mean that there will be a higher humidity level in the air. Some signs to look for are the condensation that is often found on the walls of the greenhouse, and this can cause issues with pollination and the development of infections when the water begins to fall on the leaves. Make adjustments according to the temperature and do some spraying during the hotter days of the year.
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What damage will Confederate rose suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Generally, the first cold snap can destroy the Confederate rose and others might go into a dormant state when the temperature is low. Some plants can get chilled when the temperatures range from 20~30℉(-6~0℃). They can freeze when the temperature begins to drop below 32℉(0℃). Those species that hide most of their parts under the soil might lose their structures above ground, but they can recover in spring. Some of the associated issues with too low temperatures are the lack of availability of resources like water, and nutrients, and those subtropical plants can suffer when the temperature reaches below 20℉(-6℃). The plants can also get damaged because of extreme heat stress when it's too high. This can reduce the transpiration rate that can affect the growth and productivity of Confederate rose.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Confederate rose?
You need to cover the plants at night since these can add about 5 degrees more to protect the species from frost and freezing temperatures. The cloth rows can work well as blankets and ensure that there are no openings where the heat could escape.
When using the covers, avoid the plastic from touching the foliage because this can cause the Confederate rose to freeze. Remember to keep the covers during the day and stop using heat pads during the summer. It will always be worth the effort to protect the cold-intolerant plants from freezing temperatures to help them survive.
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How can I keep Confederate rose warm without a heat pad?
If you prefer not to use a heat pad, bring the Confederate rose inside, especially if it's freezing outdoors. During spring, consider the ones you need to bring indoors and plant them in moveable pots and containers.
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How can I provide Confederate rose with an adequate temperature condition?
Most often, the ones caring for the Confederate rose will grow them in greenhouses. This is because they can provide adequate temperature in these areas that won't affect the photosynthesis process of a specific process.
Some install the proper HVAC systems to control the temperatures of Confederate rose. This can handle many species' cooling and heating needs, especially during the summer and winter. They generally place the cooling or heating pad under the plants rather than above to achieve their desired temperatures.
If outdoors, you can protect the Confederate rose from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Confederate rose?
Heat mats are often left on Confederate rose to set the temperatures at a more consistent level. When the weather becomes warmer during the day, you can remove them, especially if the species are exposed to the sun. Put the pads away once the plants are established and when they start growing flowers and fruits.
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Soil
Confederate rose like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Confederate rose can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Propagation
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The best planting season for confederate rose is during fall while it is still warm. this allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting confederate rose, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.


Transplanting

Potting Suggestions
The perfect time to transplant confederate rose is from early to late spring, this ensures strong root establishment. Find a sunny spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Remember, handle confederate rose gently during transplanting to minimize any potential stress.

Needs excellent drainage in pots


More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Confederate rose prefers consistently moist soil, but can tolerate periods of dryness. It thrives in well-draining soil, mimicking its natural habitat near water sources. Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to root rot. Adjust watering during seasons with increased rainfall.

Lighting
Full sun
Confederate rose thrives in an environment where the sun is clearly visible for the majority of the day, however it can also do well under moderate illumination. Its original habitat also had significant sun exposure. Too little light can hinder growth, while too much can cause leaf scorch.

Temperature
0 to 35 ℃
The confederate rose grows naturally in temperate climates and prefers temperatures ranging from 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃). In hot summers, it benefits from regular watering and protection from direct sunlight to prevent scorching. During colder months, it can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 ℉ (-6.7 ℃) with some winter protection.

Transplant spacing
3-6 feet
The perfect time to transplant confederate rose is from early to late spring, this ensures strong root establishment. Find a sunny spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Remember, handle confederate rose gently during transplanting to minimize any potential stress.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Confederate rose planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Confederate rose based on 10 million real cases



Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Confederate Rose

Plant Type
Shrub, Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
1.8 to 3 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
8 cm

Plant Height
2 to 5 m
Usages
Garden Use
Confederate rose is a very showy species of Hibiscus that thrives in warm, humid climates. It is chosen by gardeners for its beautiful blooms, which look more like roses than typical trumpet-shaped hibiscus flowers. These unique flowers actually change color throughout the day, turning dark red by nightfall, making them even more interesting for gardeners. This plant is generally used as a specimen planting or blooming hedge, but is also attractive to bees and other pollinators, making it a good addition to wildlife gardens.


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Common Problems
Why are there so few flowers?


There are many reasons for limited flowering:
- Confederate rose likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
- If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
- Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.
Why do the leaves turn yellow?


- Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
- Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
- Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. this yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.
Why do the buds fall off?


- Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. this can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
- High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
- Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
- Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
- Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.








Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
0 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Confederate Rose

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

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Confederate Rose

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care





How to Care for Confederate Rose
A unique feature of the confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is its color-changing flowers. This shrubby rose bush blooms starting as white in the morning, turn pink at midday, and end red by the end of the day. This is a common plant species and although it is native to Southeast China, it can now be found on every continent except Antarctica.

Symbolism
Beauty, charm, youth, first love and the shortness of life

Every 1-2 weeks
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.

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Fertilizer

Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Confederate rose prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Confederate rose?

When is the best time to fertilize my Confederate rose?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Confederate rose?

What type of fertilizer does my Confederate rose need?

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Sunlight

Confederate rose likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.

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Does Confederate rose need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Confederate rose from the sun?

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Pruning

Confederate rose generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
Is pruning necessary for my Confederate rose?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
What is the optimal temperature for Confederate rose?

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How can I keep Confederate rose warm in cold seasons?

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Soil

Confederate rose like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Confederate rose can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.

Propagation
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The best planting season for confederate rose is during fall while it is still warm. this allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting confederate rose, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.

Transplanting

Potting Suggestions

The perfect time to transplant confederate rose is from early to late spring, this ensures strong root establishment. Find a sunny spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Remember, handle confederate rose gently during transplanting to minimize any potential stress.

Needs excellent drainage in pots

More About How-Tos

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Confederate rose planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Confederate rose based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming



Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More

Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More

Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Confederate Rose

Plant Type
Shrub, Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
1.8 to 3 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
8 cm

Plant Height
2 to 5 m
Usages
Garden Use
Confederate rose is a very showy species of Hibiscus that thrives in warm, humid climates. It is chosen by gardeners for its beautiful blooms, which look more like roses than typical trumpet-shaped hibiscus flowers. These unique flowers actually change color throughout the day, turning dark red by nightfall, making them even more interesting for gardeners. This plant is generally used as a specimen planting or blooming hedge, but is also attractive to bees and other pollinators, making it a good addition to wildlife gardens.


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Common Problems
Why are there so few flowers?


There are many reasons for limited flowering:
- Confederate rose likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
- If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
- Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.
Why do the leaves turn yellow?


- Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
- Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
- Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. this yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.
Why do the buds fall off?


- Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. this can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
- High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
- Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
- Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
- Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.



















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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
0 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
Confederate rose prefers consistently moist soil, but can tolerate periods of dryness. It thrives in well-draining soil, mimicking its natural habitat near water sources. Avoid over-watering, as it can lead to root rot. Adjust watering during seasons with increased rainfall.
Watering check today
More

Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Confederate rose, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Confederate rose is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves

When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop

When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew

Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Confederate rose is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage

Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems

Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Confederate rose thrives in an environment where the sun is clearly visible for the majority of the day, however it can also do well under moderate illumination. Its original habitat also had significant sun exposure. Too little light can hinder growth, while too much can cause leaf scorch.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Confederate rose thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your confederate rose may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Confederate rose enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Confederate rose thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
The confederate rose grows naturally in temperate climates and prefers temperatures ranging from 59 to 100 ℉ (15 to 38 ℃). In hot summers, it benefits from regular watering and protection from direct sunlight to prevent scorching. During colder months, it can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 ℉ (-6.7 ℃) with some winter protection.

Regional wintering strategies
Confederate rose has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Confederate rose has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
High Temperature
During summer, Confederate rose should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant spacing

How to Successfully Transplant Confederate rose?
The perfect time to transplant confederate rose is from early to late spring, this ensures strong root establishment. Find a sunny spot with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Remember, handle confederate rose gently during transplanting to minimize any potential stress.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Confederate rose?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Confederate rose?

Transferring confederate rose is ideal from the initial stages of spring to its tail end. This season offers confederate rose the best conditions for roots establishment and developing strong growth before the hot days of summer set in. Transplanting confederate rose within this window aids its hearty growth with less stress, emboldening the plant for a prosperous future blooming. As a friendly reminder, ensure the pre-work of providing nutrient rich soil and watering consistently.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Confederate rose Plants?

To give your confederate rose room to grow, be sure to space them 3-6 ft (0.9-1.8 m) apart when transplanting. This will provide ample space for their roots and encourage healthy growth.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Confederate rose Transplanting?

For optimal growth, prepare a soil rich in organic matter and well-draining. Amend it with compost or aged manure to create a nutrient-rich base. A balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer can be added to promote plant health during transplanting.
Where Should You Relocate Your Confederate rose?

When transplanting your confederate rose, aim for a location with either full sun or partial shade. This will ensure they get the right amount of sunlight to thrive while also helping enhance their beautiful flowers.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Confederate rose?
Gardening Gloves

To protect your hands while working with the soil and confederate rose.
Shovel or Spade

To dig the hole for the new location and to lift the confederate rose from its original location.
Gardening Trowel

To help remove the confederate rose from pots or seedling trays without disturbing the roots.
Gardening Fork

To break up the soil in the new location and make it easier for the confederate rose roots to establish.
Watering Can

To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow or Tarp

To transport the confederate rose from its original location to the new location without causing stress to the plant.
How Do You Remove Confederate rose from the Soil?
First, dig a hole that is double the diameter of the confederate rose root ball, and the same depth. Break up the soil in the hole with a gardening fork.
Place the confederate rose in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Carefully backfill the hole with the broken-up soil, firming gently around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
Immediately after planting, water the confederate rose thoroughly. Make sure the water reaches the root zone to help the plant settle in.
Add a layer of mulch around the confederate rose base to conserve water, manage weeds, and maintain soil temperature.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Confederate rose
Step1 Preparing the New Site

First, dig a hole that is double the diameter of the confederate rose root ball, and the same depth. Break up the soil in the hole with a gardening fork.
Step2 Plant Placement

Place the confederate rose in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Carefully backfill the hole with the broken-up soil, firming gently around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
Step3 Watering

Immediately after planting, water the confederate rose thoroughly. Make sure the water reaches the root zone to help the plant settle in.
Step4 Mulching

Add a layer of mulch around the confederate rose base to conserve water, manage weeds, and maintain soil temperature.
How Do You Care For Confederate rose After Transplanting?
Monitoring

Keep an eye on the confederate rose and look for signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing or dropped leaves. If you see these signs, some minor tweaking, such as adjusting the amount of water or moving the plant to a better location, might be necessary.
Pruning

Prune the confederate rose lightly after transplanting to reduce water loss from the foliage. Do not heavily prune it until after it's fully established in its new location.
Watering

Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting. Gradually decrease watering as the confederate rose begins to establish.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Confederate rose Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant confederate rose?

The ideal period to transplant confederate rose is anytime from the start of spring to late spring.
Do the confederate rose plants need a specific spacing?

Absolutely! Give each confederate rose a good 3-6 feet (91-183 cm) room to allow for healthy development.
What happens if I don't transplant confederate rose in early to late spring?

Transplanting confederate rose out of season can promote stress and decreased growth. Early to late spring ensures optimal growth conditions.
Why is confederate rose wilted after transplantation?

Post-transplant shock may cause wilting. Keep the soil moist, avoid over-exposure to sunlight, and avoid over-fertilizing for the first few weeks.
What size pot or container should I use for confederate rose?

Choose a container that's approximately 2 times bigger than confederate rose's root ball. It ensures enough space for growth.
Is it better to water confederate rose before or after transplantation?

Water confederate rose well one day before you plan to move it. Post-transplant, ensure the soil stays consistently moist but not waterlogged.
What light conditions do confederate rose prefer?

Confederate rose thrives best in full sun to part shade conditions. During transplantation, you may briefly provide some shade to avoid plant shock.
What type of soil does confederate rose prefer?

For confederate rose, a well-drained soil rich in organic matter is best. Make sure the pH is mildly acid to neutral (pH 6.1-7.8).
How long does it take for confederate rose to get established after transplantation?

Confederate rose may take 2-3 weeks to establish after transplantation. Patience and continuous care during this period are crucial.
Should I add fertilizer during the transplant of confederate rose?

You should avoid applying fertilizer immediately after transplantation. Wait a few weeks allowing the roots to settle and adjust to the new location.

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