You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Rose of sharon prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.


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Basic Care


Advanced Care


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Pests & Diseases


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FAQ
How to care Rose Of Sharon
Hibiscus syriacus is a deciduous shrub with trumpet-shaped pink, lavender, or white flowers. Although it was first collected by Western botanists from Syrian gardens, “rose of sharon” is native to south-central and southeastern China. Because of its hardiness and prolific blooming, it is cultivated all around the world. It is the national flower of South Korea, mentioned in its national anthem.

Symbolism
Gentle perseverance, beauty, love, healing

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun





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Basic Care Guide

Water
Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.
Water
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What's the best method to water my Rose of sharon?
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What should I do if I water Rose of sharon too much/too little?
An overwatered Rose of sharon can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Rose of sharon recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Rose of sharon indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Rose of sharon outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Rose of sharon?
The Rose of sharon likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Rose of sharon generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Rose of sharon?
The Rose of sharon generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Rose of sharon is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Rose of sharon is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Rose of sharon continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Rose of sharon a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Rose of sharon according to different seasons or climates?
The Rose of sharon needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Rose of sharon to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Rose of sharon will need less water during the winter. Since the Rose of sharon will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Rose of sharon growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Rose of sharon can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Rose of sharon and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Rose of sharon’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Rose of sharon’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Rose of sharon in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Rose of sharon mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Rose of sharon in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Rose of sharon begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Rose of sharon important?
Watering the Rose of sharon helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Rose of sharon thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Rose of sharon prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Rose of sharon?
You need to fertilize a Rose of sharon for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Rose of sharon produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Rose of sharon has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Rose of sharon plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Rose of sharon some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Rose of sharon hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Rose of sharon?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Rose of sharon. If you use fertilizer too early while the Rose of sharon is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Rose of sharon?
Avoid giving Rose of sharon a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Rose of sharon should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Rose of sharon can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Rose of sharon need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Rose of sharon is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Rose of sharon 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Rose of sharon. However, some of the best fertilizers for Rose of sharon come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Rose of sharon.
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How do I fertilize my Rose of sharon?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Rose of sharon you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Rose of sharon, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Rose of sharon too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Rose of sharon may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Rose of sharon will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Rose of sharon to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
Rose of sharon likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.


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How much/long should Rose of sharon get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Rose of sharon receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Rose of sharon need?
Rose of sharon does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Rose of sharon? How to protect Rose of sharon from the sun and heat damage?
Rose of sharon planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Rose of sharon during extreme weather events.
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Does Rose of sharon need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Rose of sharon from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Rose of sharon, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Rose of sharon to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Rose of sharon gets inadequate sunlight?
When Rose of sharon receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Rose of sharon receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Rose of sharon need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Rose of sharon and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Rose of sharon fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Rose of sharon?
Recently transplanted Rose of sharon will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Rose of sharon drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Rose of sharon that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Rose of sharon generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.

Does my Rose of sharon need to be pruned?
While one could technically let the Rose of sharon go without pruning, the form and health of the tree may suffer, and will end up looking quite shaggy and unorganized. Rose of sharon is grown for its attractive flowers. While not strictly necessary, many people prefer to prune this plant every year or two to encourage flowering and to maintain an attractive appearance and keep your Rose of sharon in great shape. Pruning not only helps the tree relieve itself of burdens like dead wood and disease, but it also gives you the creative ability to style the tree in a way that works for you!
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When is the best time to prune my Rose of sharon?
There are ultimately two times of the year that work best for pruning Rose of sharon. Although it can be pruned at any time in cases of emergency, such as a broken branch, pruning should be left to the seasons where Rose of sharon isn’t actively blooming or putting on new growth. This is a very typical pruning rule for most woody plants. Pruning can either take place just before the tree begins to put on new growth in very early Spring, or it can wait until just after all the blooms have fallen and your Rose of sharon is starting to fall into dormancy. The best time to prune is just before new growth appears, but either time is great for removing extra growth. Use garden shears to cut off broken, dead, weak or diseased branches from Rose of sharon. Observe the branch to see if it is dry and brittle. You can also tell if a dead branch is present by its color. If the branch is dark green, it is weak and dying; if the branch is brown, then the branch is already a dead branch. You can also choose to prune at both times in the same year if your Rose of sharon needs a bit of an overhaul. To avoid taking off too much at one time, you can simply prune back before new growth, and then again once it’s had its time to bloom and pollinate. Of course, pruning does come with some mild risks, so it’s better to prune only once per year if you can. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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How can I prune my Rose of sharon?
To prune the Rose of sharon, first identify how the tree has grown thus far. It can either look bushy, like a shrub, or it can have one or more trunks that stem up from the ground with foliage in the top quadrant. If you have a bushy Rose of sharon and you like it that way, then you can simply trim just as you would an average shrub, by removing new growths at equal heights just above a leaf node. For taller Rose of sharon, there’s a little more to it. Identify the look you want first. If all you’re looking for is a quick prune and done, then all you really need to do is cut back any growth that is growing towards the inside of the canopy, as well as any “suckers”, or stems that grow below the canopy line. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which increases the space for other branches to grow. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which will increase the space for other branches to grow. If what you need is to take off some serious area, then more planning is in line. Rose of sharon branch out in a fan fashion from the center trunk, and each branch will have its own branches that grow from them, as well. Try to take off branches that are pointing downward at their bases, but avoid cutting too much away from each secondary branch. From here, you can do some milder pruning around the areas where you removed branches in order to clean up the look and blend in the newly trimmed sections. Never trim off so much that no secondary branches are left from the main trunk; Rose of sharon can tolerate this, but it takes years for them to recover fully. These prunings need to be done in late winter or early spring. Pruning Rose of sharon encourages flowering and provides Rose of sharon with more ornamental value. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Rose of sharon?
You can take a few extra steps to make sure that your pruning is both successful and healthy. As with most woody, flowering trees, Rose of sharon should be spoiled with a little extra water over the following week so that it has the means to heal its wounds. Rose of sharon is a tough cookie, so it can take care of itself for the most part after the annual snipping. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Rose of sharon a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. If you have other plants or trees nearby that are affected by diseases such as fungi or pests, you can also apply honey to the wounds just after pruning to create a sort of natural bandage.
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What techniques and tips should I use when pruning my Rose of sharon?
Pruning the Rose of sharon should be saved until the tree is mature, or has at least one thick stem or trunk that other, smaller branches grow from. That being said, you can train younger Rose of sharon to grow in a style that you like by snipping off new growths at the base of the tree where it meets the ground. Here’s a general idea of how to get started pruning your Rose of sharon. Tools For pruning, you’ll of course need some sort of clippers. Loppers are best for thicker branches, while hand pruners will usually get the job done on smaller branches that are less than the thickness of your average pencil. You’ll also need a good pair of gloves, as well as some sort of protective eyewear. Pruning can sometimes get a little pokey, so you want to make sure that none of the stray branches or debris end up in your eyes.
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What are the common issues that I should be aware of when pruning my Rose of sharon?
One of the most common issues with Rose of sharon is overgrowth. Once they get unruly, it can be tricky to get them to look their best again. In some situations, it may be best to cut away everything except for secondary branches- those that grow from the main stem or trunk- and henceforth only trim back new branches liberally until your Rose of sharon regains its shape.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.

What is the optimal temperature for Rose of sharon?
The best temperature for Rose of sharon to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Rose of sharon during different growing phases?
Research shows that Rose of sharon will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Rose of sharon warm in cold seasons?
Rose of sharon can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Rose of sharon suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Rose of sharon if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Rose of sharon gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Rose of sharon gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Rose of sharon?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Rose of sharon healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Rose of sharon warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Rose of sharon, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Rose of sharon with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Rose of sharon in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Rose of sharon is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Rose of sharon from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Rose of sharon extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Rose of sharon in different seasons?
Rose of sharon is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Rose of sharon?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Rose of sharon in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
Rose of sharon like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Rose of sharon can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Propagation
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The best planting season for rose of sharon is during fall while it is still warm. this allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting rose of sharon, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Rose of sharon planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.


Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Rose of sharon based on 10 million real cases



Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Rose Of Sharon

Plant Type
Shrub, Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
5 to 8 cm

Bloom Time
Mid summer, Late summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Blue

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
5 to 10 cm

Plant Height
2 to 4 m
Name story
Rose of sharon
The name Rose of Sharon is actually derived from the Bible. Scholars are unsure to which specific plant the name identifies. In daily life, there are also many other species known as the Rose of Sharon. However, if you mention the Rose of Sharon in North America, it is most likely referring to the Hibiscus syriacus.
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
It can retain dust and has great resistance to harmful gases.
Garden Use
Rose of sharon is a deciduous shrub commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its late-season large showy flowers. Its bushy shape makes it suitable for hedging and screens. Rose of sharon is good for Mediterranean or drought-tolerant gardens. Suggested companion plants include Red Mountain Spinach or Floribunda Rose to make a color contrast.

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Common Problems
Why are there so few flowers?


There are many reasons for limited flowering:
- Rose of sharon likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
- If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
- Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.
Why do the leaves turn yellow?


- Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
- Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
- Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. this yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.
Why do the buds fall off?


- Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. this can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
- High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
- Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
- Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
- Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.


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How to care Rose Of Sharon
Hibiscus syriacus is a deciduous shrub with trumpet-shaped pink, lavender, or white flowers. Although it was first collected by Western botanists from Syrian gardens, “rose of sharon” is native to south-central and southeastern China. Because of its hardiness and prolific blooming, it is cultivated all around the world. It is the national flower of South Korea, mentioned in its national anthem.

Symbolism
Gentle perseverance, beauty, love, healing

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.

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Fertilizer

Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Rose of sharon prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.

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Sunlight

Rose of sharon likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.

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Pruning

Rose of sharon generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
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Soil

Rose of sharon like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Rose of sharon can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.

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The best planting season for rose of sharon is during fall while it is still warm. this allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting rose of sharon, depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Rose of sharon planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Rose of sharon based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming



Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More

Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More

Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Rose Of Sharon

Plant Type
Shrub, Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
5 to 8 cm

Bloom Time
Mid summer, Late summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Blue

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
5 to 10 cm

Plant Height
2 to 4 m
Name story
Rose of sharon
The name Rose of Sharon is actually derived from the Bible. Scholars are unsure to which specific plant the name identifies. In daily life, there are also many other species known as the Rose of Sharon. However, if you mention the Rose of Sharon in North America, it is most likely referring to the Hibiscus syriacus.
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
It can retain dust and has great resistance to harmful gases.
Garden Use
Rose of sharon is a deciduous shrub commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its late-season large showy flowers. Its bushy shape makes it suitable for hedging and screens. Rose of sharon is good for Mediterranean or drought-tolerant gardens. Suggested companion plants include Red Mountain Spinach or Floribunda Rose to make a color contrast.

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Common Problems
Why are there so few flowers?


There are many reasons for limited flowering:
- Rose of sharon likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
- If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
- Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.
Why do the leaves turn yellow?


- Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
- Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
- Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. this yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.
Why do the buds fall off?


- Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. this can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
- High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
- Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
- Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
- Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.


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