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About
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Basic Care
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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More Info
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FAQ

How to Care for Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith'

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is a deciduous shrub that has dark green, three-lobed leaves, and lone white flowers. These trumpet-shaped flowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall. The bush grows up to 3 m high with a spread of 1.8 m. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is named in honor of Reverand William Smith who was an avid gardener.
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.
Swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) requires more water and is resilient in damp conditions; it is better to water it every day in summer as long as soil drainage is ensured. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is relatively resistant to drought and should be thoroughly watered when the soil is dry.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

The best planting season for rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is during fall while it is still warm. This allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting rose of sharon 'William R. Smith', depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.
seasonal-tip
care_scenes

More Info on Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Lighting
Full sun
Temperature
-20 38 ℃
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Nutrient deficiencies
plant poor
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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care_more_info

More About Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith'

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1.5 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
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care_faq

Common Problems

Why are there so few flowers?

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There are many reasons for limited flowering:
  1. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
  2. If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
  3. Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

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  1. Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
  2. Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
  3. Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. This yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.

Why do the buds fall off?

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  1. Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. This can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
  2. High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
  3. Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
  4. Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
  5. Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.
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Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'

How to Care for Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith'

Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is a deciduous shrub that has dark green, three-lobed leaves, and lone white flowers. These trumpet-shaped flowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall. The bush grows up to 3 m high with a spread of 1.8 m. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is named in honor of Reverand William Smith who was an avid gardener.
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Young rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) should be watered often. The soil around the plant should be soaked, preferably in the evening. For adult plants, rainwater is usually sufficient except in the case of continuous drought. The water demand of Chinese hibiscus is more than that of rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) in summer. Potted plants also require more water than plants in gardens.
Swamp rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) requires more water and is resilient in damp conditions; it is better to water it every day in summer as long as soil drainage is ensured. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is relatively resistant to drought and should be thoroughly watered when the soil is dry.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Adult plants do not require frequent fertilization, but flowering plants are best fertilized annually. In early spring, granular or powdery slow-release fertilizer should be mixed into the soil around the aboveground part of the plant, generally 60-70g/m2. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' prefers potash fertilizer rather than phosphate fertilizer. Newly planted plants may also require additional, quick-acting, liquid fertilizer weekly.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' likes ample sunlight for at least six hours a day. However, direct sunlight should be avoided during high temperatures in summer afternoons. Otherwise, the leaves can easily become sunburned.
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Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' generally does not require pruning. If desired, however, it should be pruned in early spring. Keep 2-4 buds on each branch grown the previous year and cut off any dead, diseased, or weak branches. For shrub shaping, trunks should be pruned to different heights, creating a sense of levels. For tree shaping, the lateral branches at the lower trunk should be removed and the upper lateral branches should be shortened.
To restore old branches, prune after blooming in fall. Each trunk should be shortened to a height of 30 to 46 cm. Afterward, apply a slow-release fertilizer. In the next growing season, keep 2-4 stronger, new branches on the trunk.
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Most Hibiscus plants are relatively resistant to cold, tolerating temperature as low as -18 ℃, and are also relatively resistant to drought. Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) and its hybridization varieties thrive in warm environments and generally cannot adapt to temperatures below 0 ℃. Temperatures of no less than 10 ℃ are best in winter for most Hibiscus plants. The optimum temperature for Chinese hibiscus is 16 to 32 ℃, and the species is not resistant to drought.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' like slightly acidic, moist, well-drained soil with a pH value of 5.5-7. If the soil is sticky and heavy, coarse sands may be added to improve permeability. In the case of slightly alkaline, chalky soil and lime soil, add rotten leaf soil, peat soil, or completely decomposed garden compost along with sulfur fertilizer until the pH value reaches an appropriate range.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' can be propagated by shoot cutting. Cut the new shoots with wooden bases and soft tips during the end of summer or early fall at a length of about 10 to 15 cm. Then, cut off the soft stem tip and remove the lower leaves. Cut a 2.5 to 4 cm-long piece of bark longitudinally at the shoot base, dip the shoot in rooting powder, insert it into the culture medium, and water once with a solution of fungicidal drugs.
Afterward, regularly water it, avoid direct sunlight, apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks, and promptly remove any weak cuttings. After the shoot roots, it can be transplanted into a flowerpot as an individual plant.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The best planting season for rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' is during fall while it is still warm. This allows the root to recover in warm soil, encouraging vigorous growth the following year. A location that receives sufficient sunlight and is slightly shaded in the afternoon is best for planting rose of sharon 'William R. Smith', depending on the local sunshine projection. All weeds should first be removed before planting, and then a planting pit can be dug. The pit should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball and attached soil, and slightly deeper than the root ball's height.
For potting, try to choose a dwarf variety and the largest flowerpot possible. The flowerpot should be of sufficient weight and stability, with stone pots preferred. Pot depth should be at least 1.5 times the depth of the root ball. The diameter should be 1/6-1/4 of the height of the adult plant. Place 3 cm of rough stones at the flowerpot bottom for better drainage.
Sort and scatter the root ball, place it in the flowerpot or planting pit, and then gradually backfill and compact the soil. Cut off any diseased, damaged, inward-growing, or crossed branches and other branches that affect the plant's shape. Water thoroughly and spread a 5 to 7 cm layer of decomposed medium or crushed bark. If the plant is a standard seedling type with a single trunk, insert a stake before planting to support the plant.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith'?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
The single flower of rose of sharon only blooms for a day and then withers. It is best to pick flowers that have just blossomed at sunrise. The fruit harvest time of Roselle is usually in late fall, one month after blooming. At that point, its sepals are fully developed, turning dark purple before the lower leaves start falling. The fruits can be cut off from the stem base with sharp scissors after the morning dew is dry.
seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Avoid direct sunlight for young plants and potted plants in the afternoon during summer. In some severe winter cold zones, potted plants need to be moved indoors and young plants planted in gardens need to be protected from wind and frost. Surround the plant with sackcloth and bamboo poles, insert straws in them, fasten them with rope or wire, cover the top with straws, and then a plastic cloth. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' planted in gardens should not be watered before the soil is thawed.
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More Info on Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More About the Nutrient deficiencies more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Nutrient deficiencies
plant poor
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Rose Of Sharon 'william R. Smith'

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
1.5 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
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Common Problems

Why are there so few flowers?

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There are many reasons for limited flowering:
  1. Rose of sharon 'William R. Smith' likes plentiful sunlight; insufficient sunlight will lead to a reduced number of flowers.
  2. If the soil fertility is insufficient, mixing slow-release potassium fertilizer into the soil in early spring, and spraying quick-acting liquid fertilizer on the leaf surfaces once a week is necessary.
  3. Improper pruning may also result in fewer flowers. If the pruned area is too close to the trunk, leaving a larger cut, or too far away from the trunk, this will cause the branches to wither. You may need to ask a professional gardener to prune the plant.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

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  1. Yellow leaves may be caused by drought or burning under high temperatures. Potted plants become dehydrated more easily, so they should be moved to a shady place and supplied with sufficient water.
  2. Yellow leaves are also caused by magnesium deficiency. In this case, yellowing mainly occurs between leaf veins. Too much water and acidic soil will lead to magnesium loss. High potassium fertilizer can also affect magnesium availability for the plant. Magnesium sulfate may be mixed into the soil in the fall or diluted by water for foliage spraying.
  3. Another possible reason for yellowing is iron/manganese deficiency. This yellowing starts from the leaf margins and extends between the leaf veins. The main reasons for this are that the soil is too alkaline, watered with hard water for an extended period, or that there is too much construction waste in the soil. In this situation, the soil should be cleaned. Water the plants with rainwater and protect the roots with acidic culture media. Fertilizer containing iron and manganese sulfate should be applied.

Why do the buds fall off?

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  1. Buds can fall off due to drought or poor water drainage of the soil, causing root rot. This can be solved by irrigation or improvement of water drainage.
  2. High-temperature burn also affects buds. Potted plants should be shielded from intense sunlight exposure at noon in summer, so move pots to shady places. Garden plants must endure conditions until the temperature drops.
  3. Insufficient fertility may be an issue. Refer to the fertilization method mentioned above.
  4. Thrips can enter the buds to feed, causing the buds to fall off. To determine whether this is the problem, tap buds against a piece of paper to check for thrips. If they are found, pesticides should be sprayed on the plants to kill the insects.
  5. Cecidomyiidae insects may lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae then feed on the buds, causing galls and falling. Pesticides can be applied in early summer to prevent this.
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Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
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About 3-6 hours sunlight
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
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