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About
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Basic Care
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Advanced Care
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More About How-Tos
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Pests & Diseases
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More Info
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FAQ

How to Care for Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining'

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' differs from its parent plant in one major respect: its leaves are a mixed green and white color. This is in marked contrast to the plain green leaves of the parent. Usually, the white leaf color is at the leaf edges, which explains this hybrid's name. This attractive shade-tolerant plant grows well along walls or fences.
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' demands a very large amount of water. The recommended watering frequency is at least three times a week. Please note that the frequency should be appropriately increased in dry areas or during hot summers. The soil should always be kept moist, but free of accumulated water. The watering frequency may be adjusted in different seasons according to this criterion. Furthermore, water should be quickly supplemented if chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' leaves begin to wither.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Bigleaf hydrangea needs to be fertilized with a small amount of compound fertilizer a few times from spring to early summer every year. Panicle hydrangea only needs to be fertilized once a year, and the best time for fertilization is in spring. Oakleaf hydrangea is best fertilized twice from spring to early summer every two months. Smooth hydrangea only needs to be fertilized once before the end of winter.
Iron deficiency is prevalent in chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' and causes the plant to grow significantly more slowly. The spaces between the veins of young leaves at the tips of branches begin to lose their green color. Gradually, the leaf turns yellow from the tip to the base. Once an iron deficiency is discovered, adjust the soil with an acidic fertilizer or something similar to make it slightly acidic. This will increase the iron absorption capacity of plant roots. Alternately, complex iron may be supplemented by foliar spraying or root burying to improve the conditions.
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

The native environment of chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is under sparse forest, so it is adaptable to partial shade. Too little sunlight will reduce the flower number or even produce no flowers, and too much sunlight may cause sunburn to flowers. In gardens, the best place to plant chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is a place where it can fully receive the morning sunlight while being partially shaded in the afternoon. The colder the climate, the longer sunlight exposure is needed. In the coldest hardiness zone, it requires at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. In the warm areas where it is best adapted, 3 hours of sunlight a day is enough.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Hydrangeas pruning methods can be divided into two types, based on their different blossoming modes:
The first pruning method is suitable for bigleaf hydrangea (excluding 'Endless Summer', a variety that blooms on both old and new branches) and oakleaf hydrangea. These two hydrangeas bloom on old branches and have relatively strict requirements on pruning time, usually only in early summer, and no later than late summer. In late spring, they are blooming or going to bloom, and flower buds start to form or develop from late summer to the following spring. Daily pruning is required to cut off withered flowers and dead, weak, and inward-growing branches.
These hydrangeas have a distinctive feature: new branches will form on two buds adjacent to a cut. Buds that are lower then become almost undeveloped or grow poorly due to the lack of apical dominance. Therefore, pay attention to whether there are buds under the cut, as well as the height of branches and directions of buds. They have opposite branches, so the directions of reserved buds should be decided by the specific shape of the plant. Additionally, when plants are too large, they can be pruned heavily in summer. The part above the ground should be kept at about 15 cm high. This way, there will be a new, small plant at the end of the year, and it will not affect blooming next year.
The new branches of 'Endless Summer' bigleaf hydrangeas will bloom. Therefore, there are no strict requirements on pruning time; just avoid pruning in spring when buds are formed. Pruning during the rest of the year does not affect flowering, and plants are usually pruned in winter after the leaves fall.
The second pruning method is suitable for smooth hydrangea and panicle hydrangea. These two hydrangeas bloom on new branches grown that year, so there is a large window for pruning. Blooming will not be affected by pruning in all seasons except during spring budding. The only existing smooth hydrangea is the Annabelle series. After its leaves fall in winter, the parts of Annabelle above the ground can be completely cut off. However, this results in one disadvantage: the flowerhead of smooth hydrangea is very large and attaches to the annual branch, which is top-heavy, so support is required. Therefore, several main branches and primary side branches should be specially trained during pruning to prevent lodging during blooming.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' likes cool and moist environments with relatively small seasonal and day-night temperature differences. The best temperature for it is 18 to 29 ℃ and winter temperatures should not be lower than -1 ℃. The differentiation of flower buds requires temperatures of 4 to 7 ℃ for 6-8 weeks. Blooming can be promoted under 19 ℃. The flowers fade faster under high temperatures above 30 ℃. Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' has relatively strict requirements for soil, which should be moist, permeable, and free of accumulated water.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' requires soil that is rich in humus and well-drained. It likes moist soil but is not resistant to waterlogging. If the soil is heavy, coarse sand or organic fertilizer can be added to improve draining and permeability. This can also increase the organic matter content. If the soil easily dries out, cover it with organic mulch to keep it moist while maintaining ventilation.
The soil pH will affect flower colors of some varieties of bigleaf hydrangea. Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' growing in acidic and aluminum-rich soils will bloom in blue, while in alkaline soils they bloom in pink. An appropriate amount of aluminum sulfate or lime can be added to the soil to adjust the pH if you want to control the flower color.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

The ideal planting time for chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is early spring or late autumn. A very high survival rate can be obtained by transplanting chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' after it has gone completely dormant. Additionally, it can also be planted in late spring and early summer, but make sure the soil is always moist and well-draining. During the initial stage of transplanting, pay attention to shading. Proper shading will reduce the evaporation rate and prevent sunburn.
For transplanting, dig a pit 61 cm wider than the diameter of, and as deep as, the plant's root ball. Cover the pit with soil and pile up a small soil mound aboveground to help with water drainage. If planting in a flowerpot, make sure the diameter of the pot is at least twice as big as the root ball.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' inflorescences can be divided into two categories according to their shapes: Lacecap and Mophead. Both can be used as cut flowers. The inflorescences can be cut with sharp scissors as soon as they fully bloom. The best time to pick flowers is early morning, which helps avoid the effects of evaporation. The stem should be cut at a 45-degree angle and soaked in cool water as soon as possible to prevent moisture loss.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
care_scenes

More Info on Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Lighting
Full sun
Temperature
-25 35 ℃
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
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More About Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining'

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
3 m
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Variegated
Green
Gray
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 m
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care_faq

Common Problems

Why are leaves withering?

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Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' typically displays leaf withering during hot summers. It likes being in the sun but cannot stand intense sunlight, especially in summer. Due to its large leaves, it loses water quickly. If the leaves are exposed to daylight after a significant water loss, it will wither. Before planting, it is best to select a location with filtered light and partial shade. Additionally, a loose, air-permeable, and well-draining medium should be used.

My chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' did not bloom much in past years: only one flower last year. What can I do?

more more
First, make sure your plants were pruned in time; some varieties bloom on old branches, so the pruning window is very small. They can only be pruned in June and July after they fully bloom. After that, flower buds begin to grow for the next year, so they won't bloom if they are pruned in winter. If the plants were pruned properly, consider the sunlight at the planting location. Though chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is shade-tolerant, it needs sufficient sunlight to bloom. If the above causes are ruled out, you can apply some organic fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer under the soil surface during winter, and apply supplemental, water-soluble fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium in spring and fall.

How do I change the color of chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' flowers?

more more
Most flowers will change color naturally from white to pink and then lavender over time. In some varieties, such as 'Endless Summer', the flower color is influenced by the pH of the soil. The flowers turn blue when chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' grows in acidic soil (pH<6), while the flowers are pink to red when it grows in alkaline soil (pH >7). The flowers are purple or blue-pink in slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 6-7). Aluminum sulfate can be used to make the soil acidic, while lime may be used to make the soil alkaline.
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Pests & Diseases
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FAQ
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'

How to Care for Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining'

Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' differs from its parent plant in one major respect: its leaves are a mixed green and white color. This is in marked contrast to the plain green leaves of the parent. Usually, the white leaf color is at the leaf edges, which explains this hybrid's name. This attractive shade-tolerant plant grows well along walls or fences.
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' demands a very large amount of water. The recommended watering frequency is at least three times a week. Please note that the frequency should be appropriately increased in dry areas or during hot summers. The soil should always be kept moist, but free of accumulated water. The watering frequency may be adjusted in different seasons according to this criterion. Furthermore, water should be quickly supplemented if chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' leaves begin to wither.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Bigleaf hydrangea needs to be fertilized with a small amount of compound fertilizer a few times from spring to early summer every year. Panicle hydrangea only needs to be fertilized once a year, and the best time for fertilization is in spring. Oakleaf hydrangea is best fertilized twice from spring to early summer every two months. Smooth hydrangea only needs to be fertilized once before the end of winter.
Iron deficiency is prevalent in chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' and causes the plant to grow significantly more slowly. The spaces between the veins of young leaves at the tips of branches begin to lose their green color. Gradually, the leaf turns yellow from the tip to the base. Once an iron deficiency is discovered, adjust the soil with an acidic fertilizer or something similar to make it slightly acidic. This will increase the iron absorption capacity of plant roots. Alternately, complex iron may be supplemented by foliar spraying or root burying to improve the conditions.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The native environment of chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is under sparse forest, so it is adaptable to partial shade. Too little sunlight will reduce the flower number or even produce no flowers, and too much sunlight may cause sunburn to flowers. In gardens, the best place to plant chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is a place where it can fully receive the morning sunlight while being partially shaded in the afternoon. The colder the climate, the longer sunlight exposure is needed. In the coldest hardiness zone, it requires at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. In the warm areas where it is best adapted, 3 hours of sunlight a day is enough.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Hydrangeas pruning methods can be divided into two types, based on their different blossoming modes:
The first pruning method is suitable for bigleaf hydrangea (excluding 'Endless Summer', a variety that blooms on both old and new branches) and oakleaf hydrangea. These two hydrangeas bloom on old branches and have relatively strict requirements on pruning time, usually only in early summer, and no later than late summer. In late spring, they are blooming or going to bloom, and flower buds start to form or develop from late summer to the following spring. Daily pruning is required to cut off withered flowers and dead, weak, and inward-growing branches.
These hydrangeas have a distinctive feature: new branches will form on two buds adjacent to a cut. Buds that are lower then become almost undeveloped or grow poorly due to the lack of apical dominance. Therefore, pay attention to whether there are buds under the cut, as well as the height of branches and directions of buds. They have opposite branches, so the directions of reserved buds should be decided by the specific shape of the plant. Additionally, when plants are too large, they can be pruned heavily in summer. The part above the ground should be kept at about 15 cm high. This way, there will be a new, small plant at the end of the year, and it will not affect blooming next year.
The new branches of 'Endless Summer' bigleaf hydrangeas will bloom. Therefore, there are no strict requirements on pruning time; just avoid pruning in spring when buds are formed. Pruning during the rest of the year does not affect flowering, and plants are usually pruned in winter after the leaves fall.
The second pruning method is suitable for smooth hydrangea and panicle hydrangea. These two hydrangeas bloom on new branches grown that year, so there is a large window for pruning. Blooming will not be affected by pruning in all seasons except during spring budding. The only existing smooth hydrangea is the Annabelle series. After its leaves fall in winter, the parts of Annabelle above the ground can be completely cut off. However, this results in one disadvantage: the flowerhead of smooth hydrangea is very large and attaches to the annual branch, which is top-heavy, so support is required. Therefore, several main branches and primary side branches should be specially trained during pruning to prevent lodging during blooming.
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' likes cool and moist environments with relatively small seasonal and day-night temperature differences. The best temperature for it is 18 to 29 ℃ and winter temperatures should not be lower than -1 ℃. The differentiation of flower buds requires temperatures of 4 to 7 ℃ for 6-8 weeks. Blooming can be promoted under 19 ℃. The flowers fade faster under high temperatures above 30 ℃. Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' has relatively strict requirements for soil, which should be moist, permeable, and free of accumulated water.
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' requires soil that is rich in humus and well-drained. It likes moist soil but is not resistant to waterlogging. If the soil is heavy, coarse sand or organic fertilizer can be added to improve draining and permeability. This can also increase the organic matter content. If the soil easily dries out, cover it with organic mulch to keep it moist while maintaining ventilation.
The soil pH will affect flower colors of some varieties of bigleaf hydrangea. Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' growing in acidic and aluminum-rich soils will bloom in blue, while in alkaline soils they bloom in pink. An appropriate amount of aluminum sulfate or lime can be added to the soil to adjust the pH if you want to control the flower color.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The ideal planting time for chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is early spring or late autumn. A very high survival rate can be obtained by transplanting chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' after it has gone completely dormant. Additionally, it can also be planted in late spring and early summer, but make sure the soil is always moist and well-draining. During the initial stage of transplanting, pay attention to shading. Proper shading will reduce the evaporation rate and prevent sunburn.
For transplanting, dig a pit 61 cm wider than the diameter of, and as deep as, the plant's root ball. Cover the pit with soil and pile up a small soil mound aboveground to help with water drainage. If planting in a flowerpot, make sure the diameter of the pot is at least twice as big as the root ball.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining'?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' inflorescences can be divided into two categories according to their shapes: Lacecap and Mophead. Both can be used as cut flowers. The inflorescences can be cut with sharp scissors as soon as they fully bloom. The best time to pick flowers is early morning, which helps avoid the effects of evaporation. The stem should be cut at a 45-degree angle and soaked in cool water as soon as possible to prevent moisture loss.
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More Info on Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining' Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Learn More About the Petal blight more
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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More About Chinese Hydrangea 'silver Lining'

Plant Type
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
3 m
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Variegated
Green
Gray
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 m
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Common Problems

Why are leaves withering?

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Chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' typically displays leaf withering during hot summers. It likes being in the sun but cannot stand intense sunlight, especially in summer. Due to its large leaves, it loses water quickly. If the leaves are exposed to daylight after a significant water loss, it will wither. Before planting, it is best to select a location with filtered light and partial shade. Additionally, a loose, air-permeable, and well-draining medium should be used.

My chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' did not bloom much in past years: only one flower last year. What can I do?

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First, make sure your plants were pruned in time; some varieties bloom on old branches, so the pruning window is very small. They can only be pruned in June and July after they fully bloom. After that, flower buds begin to grow for the next year, so they won't bloom if they are pruned in winter. If the plants were pruned properly, consider the sunlight at the planting location. Though chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' is shade-tolerant, it needs sufficient sunlight to bloom. If the above causes are ruled out, you can apply some organic fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer under the soil surface during winter, and apply supplemental, water-soluble fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium in spring and fall.

How do I change the color of chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' flowers?

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Most flowers will change color naturally from white to pink and then lavender over time. In some varieties, such as 'Endless Summer', the flower color is influenced by the pH of the soil. The flowers turn blue when chinese hydrangea 'Silver Lining' grows in acidic soil (pH<6), while the flowers are pink to red when it grows in alkaline soil (pH >7). The flowers are purple or blue-pink in slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 6-7). Aluminum sulfate can be used to make the soil acidic, while lime may be used to make the soil alkaline.
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
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