Use App
Home City Plants Application
English
English
繁體中文
日本語
Español
Français
Deutsch
Pусский
Português
Italiano
한국어
Nederlands
العربية
Svenska
Polskie
ภาษาไทย
Bahasa Melayu
Bahasa Indonesia
This page looks better in the app
care_about care_about
About
care_basic_guide care_basic_guide
Basic Care
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
care_seasonal_tips care_seasonal_tips
Seasonal Tips
care_pet_and_diseases care_pet_and_diseases
Pests & Diseases
care_toxicity care_toxicity
Toxicity
care_more_info care_more_info
More Info
care_faq care_faq
FAQ
care_new_plant care_new_plant
New Plant Care

How to Care for Common St. John's Wort

Common St. John's wort (*Hypericum perforatum*) is a plant species that is native to Europe and Central Asia. Common St. John's wort is considered poisonous to livestock and can cause problems for humans if consumed. This dense, fast-growing plant has been introduced to North America and Australia, where it is often viewed as an invasive species.
symbolism

Symbolism

Animosity, superstition
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Common St. John's wort
video play
Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Common St. John's wort can withstand drought but is intolerant of waterlogged soil. In the first year after planting, about 2.5 cm of water every week will be enough. In areas with plentiful rain, no additional watering is needed. From the second year on, common St. John's wort doesn't need any additional watering, as normal precipitation will meet its needs for water. If over-watered, its roots are likely to rot due to waterlogging, and leaves will wither and dry up.

Water

Potted Common St. John's wort
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common St. John's wort needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Common St. John's wort , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Common St. John's wort plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common St. John's wort will contract a disease.
Ground Common St. John's wort
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Common St. John's wort can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Common St. John's wort can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common St. John's wort is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common St. John's wort will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common St. John's wort will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common St. John's wort more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common St. John's wort , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Common St. John's wort , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common St. John's wort have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Common St. John's wort plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common St. John's wort plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common St. John's wort is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:WaterDetail
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Common St. John's wort?
When watering the Common St. John's wort, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common St. John's wort comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Common St. John's wort too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common St. John's wort, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common St. John's wort, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common St. John's wort have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common St. John's wort. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common St. John's wort grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common St. John's wort is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Common St. John's wort?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common St. John's wort needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common St. John's wort can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
How much water does my Common St. John's wort need?
When it comes time to water your Common St. John's wort, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Common St. John's wort at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common St. John's wort can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common St. John's wort is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common St. John's wort will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common St. John's wort will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common St. John's wort more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Common St. John's wort through the seasons?
The Common St. John's wort will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common St. John's wort will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Common St. John's wort indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common St. John's wort indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common St. John's wort to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common St. John's wort very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Common St. John's wort requires very little fertilizing. Usually, no additional fertilization is needed after the initial planting, unless obvious symptoms of slow growth appear. If that happens, apply some low-concentration balanced compound fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK ratio).

Fertilizer

Common St. John's wort grow throughout many regions of the world and are often some of the best plants to use for foliage gardens. If you want to reap the full benefits of growing a Common St. John's wort, in your garden, you should understand the basics of its care routine, with special consideration for fertilization. The information below will answer some of the most important questions related to fertilizing a Common St. John's wort.
The leaves of the Common St. John's wort comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common St. John's wort hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture. Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common St. John's wort generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year. Often, a Common St. John's wort will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common St. John's wort, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common St. John's wort about once every month to a month and a half.
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common St. John's wort using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Wait until your Common St. John's wort has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common St. John's wort. You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common St. John's wort, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common St. John's wort before and after you feed it.
The Common St. John's wort doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common St. John's wort, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common St. John's wort is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common St. John's wort to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common St. John's wort to once per year in early spring.
In the late fall and winter, your Common St. John's wort will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common St. John's wort. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common St. John's wort 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common St. John's wort during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common St. John's wort and cause it to perish prematurely.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Common St. John's wort?
The leaves of the Common St. John's wort comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common St. John's wort hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture.
Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common St. John's wort generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Common St. John's wort?
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year.
Often, a Common St. John's wort will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common St. John's wort, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common St. John's wort about once every month to a month and a half.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Common St. John's wort?
In the late fall and winter, your Common St. John's wort will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common St. John's wort. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common St. John's wort 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common St. John's wort during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common St. John's wort and cause it to perish prematurely.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Common St. John's wort need?
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common St. John's wort using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Common St. John's wort?
Wait until your Common St. John's wort has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common St. John's wort.
You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common St. John's wort, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common St. John's wort before and after you feed it.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Common St. John's wort too much?
The Common St. John's wort doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common St. John's wort, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common St. John's wort is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common St. John's wort to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common St. John's wort to once per year in early spring.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Common St. John's wort needs sufficient sunlight but doesn't tolerate direct light. Grow the plant in the shade of other plants or on a balcony away from strong, hard light. Expose it to more sunlight in the spring and fall to help it grow, but in the summer, place the potted plants in half-shaded places and mist them with water to cool the temperature and increase humidity. Otherwise, symptoms like drying leaf tips may appear.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
What type of sunlight does Common St. John's wort need?
Common St. John's wort needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
Read More more
Can sunlight damage Common St. John's wort? How to protect Common St. John's wort from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
Read More more
Should I protect Common St. John's wort from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
Read More more
What will happen if Common St. John's wort gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Common St. John's wort and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
Read More more
Does Common St. John's wort need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Common St. John's wort is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Common St. John's wort is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
Read More more
How much light does Common St. John's wort need for photosynthesis?
Common St. John's wort will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
Read More more
How much light should Common St. John's wort get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Common St. John's wort to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Common St. John's wort doesn't need much pruning. To promote more lush growth, trim 1/5-1/4 of the total branch length by the end of spring or early summer, which promotes new branches to sprout. Common St. John's wort buds and leaves both grow in pairs. Generally speaking, cutting one branch off promotes the pair of buds beneath the incision to develop into two branches.
For common St. John's wort with robust growth and branches crossing inward, winter is the time for an overall pruning. As perennial herbaceous plants, you may just clip them flat with a sickle and they will revive. Common St. John's wort has a short life span, so you can also consider getting new seedlings to replace the old ones once they start to decline.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
When should I prune my Common St. John's wort?
You can prune your Common St. John's wort any time you notice dead, diseased, or damaged leaves during the growing season. Once you notice such a leave, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. You can cut its stem just above the soil’s surface to remove it. Such pruning can take place as needed during spring and summer. Also, this plant can bloom any time between spring and fall, and some gardeners choose to remove flower buds before they have a chance to open. Removing unopened flower buds allows this plant to focus most of its growing energy on its beautiful leaves. However, pruning in this manner does not necessarily influence the plant’s overall health. Cutting back should be done late in the winter to early spring. Ideally, you should wait until you see new basal growth before you cut off the dead and dried winter parts, to about 6 inches from the ground.
Read More more
How can I prune my Common St. John's wort?
Pruning the Common St. John's wort is as easy as waiting until you notice dead or damaged leaves on your plant. When you recognize these leaves, equip yourself with a pair of sharp and sterile hand pruning shears. Hand pruning shears will work best as larger tools like loppers will not be well suited to the precise cuts you need to make. Once you have a proper set of pruning tools, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Cut the stem just above where it exits the soil to remove it entirely. If you wish to stop this plant from flowering, you can use the same pruning shears to remove any buds before they open. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head. Cutting back should be done late in the winter to early spring. Ideally, you should wait until you see new basal growth before you cut off the dead and dried winter parts to about 6 inches from the ground.
Read More more
What should I do after pruning my Common St. John's wort?
All that is required of you once you have pruned your Common St. John's wort is to clean up. Once you have pruned, deadheaded, or cut back your Common St. John's wort, gather the bits you have cut off and discard them. If there are any diseased parts of the plant that you have pruned away, do not discard them with the rest of the pruned pieces. Diseased foliage should be disposed of. When watering after pruning, be careful not to touch the wound to prevent fungus from infecting the plant through the fresh wound. Placing Common St. John's wort in a well-ventilated location will also help the wound to dry out and heal in time.
Read More more
Are there any tips for pruning my Common St. John's wort?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. As you are pruning your Common St. John's wort, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetricaly. It is recommended that gloves and safety glasses be worn while pruning Common St. John's wort.
Read More more
Are there any instructions for pruning my Common St. John's wort?
Pruning is an important part of plant care and maintenance. Different plants have different pruning requirements. Some plants may need little to no pruning, while others may require more specific attention. Most plants should be pruned to remove damaged or unhealthy foliage. Other plants may be pruned to control their shape and size. Pruning may even be done to remove the flower heads of plants and stop them from self-seeding. Although some gardeners may find pruning a tedious task, it is a necessary evil and is an essential part of keeping your plants happy and healthy.
Read More more
left right
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

plants of the Hypericum genus are widely distributed. They like warm, moist environments; the best temperature range for the plants is 20 to 26 ℃, but they can tolerate temperatures as low as -10 ℃. They require little water and endures drought, but don't tolerate waterlogged soil. Avoid watering so frequently that the soil gets waterlogged.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Common St. John's wort?
The best temperature for Common St. John's wort depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common St. John's wort has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common St. John's wort may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common St. John's wort will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common St. John's wort. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common St. John's wort to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
Read More more
Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common St. John's wort
If this is the first year of your Common St. John's wort outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common St. John's wort, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common St. John's wort inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common St. John's wort in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common St. John's wort should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
Read More more
How can I protect Common St. John's wort from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common St. John's wort from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common St. John's wort in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common St. John's wort is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common St. John's wort to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
Read More more
Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common St. John's wort
During the cold winter months, Common St. John's wort needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common St. John's wort, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common St. John's wort. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common St. John's wort will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Common St. John's wort can adapt to a wide range of soil types. It grows well in most common soils (except for heavy clay) and prefers sandy loam with good drainage. A slightly acidic loam with a 5.5-7.0 pH value is ideal. Common St. John's wort is tolerant of barren soil and drought, but if the soil can't drain water well, waterlogging can cause the roots to rot.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Common St. John's wort can be propagated by seeding, cuttage, or plant division. To sow seeds yourself, sow them in a sand bed. Dust a thin layer of soil on them, water once, and sprout the seeds in temperatures of 10 to 12 ℃. Keep the potting soil moist. Transplant seedlings when they grow to 5 to 10 cm tall.
For St. John's worts with dense branches, propagation is usually performed at the end of summer by soft-branch cuttage. Choose some robust, soft branches that sprouted in the current year. Cut 10 to 15 cm-long from the tip, making sure to keep at least 2 full leaves on each branch. Insert the cut branches into the soil and keep half the length aboveground. Keep the soil and the environment moist. When the seedlings reach 20 cm tall, transplant to pots. Seedlings need to grow to 70 cm tall to move outdoors or wait until the end of the next summer.

Propagation

Only sow Common St. John's wort seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier.
To sow Common St. John's wort in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps:
Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing.
Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed.
Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate.
Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
plant common St. John's wort in the early spring or early fall. Choose a cool, shaded place, such as within tree shade. Remember to clear the soil first and remove weeds. Dig a planting pit slightly shorter than the diameter of the root ball and 3 times wider. If you're planting more than one sapling, avoid planting them too close, or low light and poor ventilation may result in powdery mildew. Pile some soil around the root collar (the juncture of trunk and roots) to form a gentle slope, and this helps disperse water. After planting, press the soil firmly and water thoroughly. Note the distance between each
Some plants in the Hypericum genus have subterraneous rhizomes that tend to expand in all directions. To prevent excessive expansion, it's a good idea to fence the planting spots or set brick perimeters around them to control their growth.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Common St. John's wort begins to flower at the end of spring. You can extend its flowering by giving it some shade. Especially potted it needs as much sunlight during the day as possible in spring and fall.
When common St. John's wort is planted without a brick perimeter or fence, remove overly lush-growing parts before the frost every fall to prevent it from growing too fast and expanding too wide. Eradicating this hardy plant requires multiple applications of 2,4-D herbicides.
seasonal-tip
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

more
1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
more
2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
more
3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
more
4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
more
5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

more
1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
more
2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
more
3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
more
4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
more
5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

more
1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
more
2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
more
3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
more
4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

more
1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
more
2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common St. John's wort based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_toxicity

Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
Common St. John's wort can potentially cause adverse reactions in humans with an allergy to the plant or who are taking prescription drugs that may react with it. The leaves and flowers of the plant, or products containing them, can cause adverse reactions from both external and internal uses. Symptoms of an allergic reaction may include mild to moderate symptoms such as nausea, stomach pain, decreased appetite, diarrhea, dizziness, fatigue, headache, dry mouth, confusion, sedation, photosensitivity, and restlessness. Common St. John's wort can cause severe or life-threatening side effects when combined with prescription drugs, especially antipsychotics, antidepressants, anticoagulants, and contraceptives.
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Common St. John's wort is mildly toxic to dogs. Physical exposure to any above-ground part of the plant may cause contact dermatitis, with more severe cases resulting in skin ulcers or blisters. Ingestion may lead to fever, gastrointestinal distress, and photosensitivity (which causes an aversion to strong lights - in extreme cases, temporary blindness may occur). Luckily, most cases of common St. John's wort poisoning are mild and resolve themselves after several days.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
The flesh of the common St. John's wort plant (Hypericum perforatum) is considered dangerous to cats as it can alter hormonal balance and cause them to behave erratically. Do not delay getting a cat treated at a veterinary hospital after even a small amount is consumed, as even chewing on the leaves can cause adverse effects.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Common St. John's Wort

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
30 to 61 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Gold
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 3.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 100 cm

Name story

Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort is named as such because of its blossoms and it is harvested during the summer solstice in late June, around St John's Feast Day on 24 June. The herb would be hung on house and stall doors on St John's Feast day with the belief that it wards off evil spirits to safeguard against harm and sickness to man and livestock.

Usages

Garden Use
Common St. John's wort is an attractive garden ornamental with ornate, star-shaped flowers. It is often viewed as a weedy plant, but is grown in prairie and meadow landscapes where it is useful in attracting pollinators. Common St. John's wort is also grown in herb gardens, wildlife gardens, as borders and woodland margins.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why do leaves of my common St. John's wort turn yellow?

more more
Yellowing leaves result from many causes, including nitrogen or iron deficiencies, insufficient light, waterlogged soil (the roots of plants need oxygen to grow), or dehydrated soil. If new leaves are yellow with green veins, it usually indicates an iron deficiency. If older leaves turn yellow while the new leaves are still green, it usually means a lack of nitrogen.
Nitrogen deficiency is more common than iron deficiency, but both can be solved using appropriate fertilizer. Keep the soil properly moist, but free of standing water. If leaves turn yellow right after a transplant but the newly-grown leaves are green, it may be due to the plant's dormancy.

Why doesn't my common St. John's wort bloom?

more more
There are many reasons for this phenomenon:
  • It might be because of insufficient light. Common St. John's wort can grow in shaded, cool places, but it blooms more abundantly with ample sunlight.
  • Inappropriate fertilizing. Fertilizers with high nitrogen content can cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and a lack of blooms.
  • Pruning at the wrong time can also cause failure to bloom.
  • It may be that your specific variety doesn't adapt well to where you planted it.
  • It may also be too early for it to flower. Wait a bit longer and see.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Herb
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Chalky, Loam
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
more
2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
show more show-more
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
show more show-more
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
show more show-more
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
show more show-more
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
label
main-image
Common St. John's Wort
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
label-image
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
label-image Download
label
main-image
Common St. John's Wort
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
plant

Botanist in your pocket

plant
plant

App

plant
close
product icon
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
ad
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
title
Botanist in your pocket
qrcode
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
Toxicity
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
Common St. John's wort
video play
Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort

How to Care for Common St. John's Wort

Common St. John's wort (*Hypericum perforatum*) is a plant species that is native to Europe and Central Asia. Common St. John's wort is considered poisonous to livestock and can cause problems for humans if consumed. This dense, fast-growing plant has been introduced to North America and Australia, where it is often viewed as an invasive species.
symbolism

Symbolism

Animosity, superstition
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Common St. John's wort can withstand drought but is intolerant of waterlogged soil. In the first year after planting, about 2.5 cm of water every week will be enough. In areas with plentiful rain, no additional watering is needed. From the second year on, common St. John's wort doesn't need any additional watering, as normal precipitation will meet its needs for water. If over-watered, its roots are likely to rot due to waterlogging, and leaves will wither and dry up.
close

Water

Potted Common St. John's wort
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common St. John's wort needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Common St. John's wort , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Common St. John's wort plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common St. John's wort will contract a disease.
Ground Common St. John's wort
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Common St. John's wort can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Common St. John's wort can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common St. John's wort is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common St. John's wort will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common St. John's wort will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common St. John's wort more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common St. John's wort , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Common St. John's wort , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common St. John's wort have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Common St. John's wort plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common St. John's wort plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common St. John's wort is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Common St. John's wort?
more
What should I do if I water my Common St. John's wort too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Common St. John's wort?
more
How much water does my Common St. John's wort need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Common St. John's wort requires very little fertilizing. Usually, no additional fertilization is needed after the initial planting, unless obvious symptoms of slow growth appear. If that happens, apply some low-concentration balanced compound fertilizer (10-10-10 NPK ratio).
close

Fertilizer

Common St. John's wort grow throughout many regions of the world and are often some of the best plants to use for foliage gardens. If you want to reap the full benefits of growing a Common St. John's wort, in your garden, you should understand the basics of its care routine, with special consideration for fertilization. The information below will answer some of the most important questions related to fertilizing a Common St. John's wort.
The leaves of the Common St. John's wort comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common St. John's wort hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture. Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common St. John's wort generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
If you grow your Common St. John's wort outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year. Often, a Common St. John's wort will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common St. John's wort, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common St. John's wort about once every month to a month and a half.
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common St. John's wort will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common St. John's wort using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Wait until your Common St. John's wort has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common St. John's wort. You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common St. John's wort, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common St. John's wort before and after you feed it.
The Common St. John's wort doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common St. John's wort, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common St. John's wort is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common St. John's wort to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common St. John's wort to once per year in early spring.
In the late fall and winter, your Common St. John's wort will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common St. John's wort. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common St. John's wort 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common St. John's wort during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common St. John's wort and cause it to perish prematurely.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Why do I need to fertilize my Common St. John's wort?
more
When is the best time to fertilize my Common St. John's wort?
more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Common St. John's wort?
more
What type of fertilizer does my Common St. John's wort need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Common St. John's wort needs sufficient sunlight but doesn't tolerate direct light. Grow the plant in the shade of other plants or on a balcony away from strong, hard light. Expose it to more sunlight in the spring and fall to help it grow, but in the summer, place the potted plants in half-shaded places and mist them with water to cool the temperature and increase humidity. Otherwise, symptoms like drying leaf tips may appear.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
What type of sunlight does Common St. John's wort need?
more
Can sunlight damage Common St. John's wort? How to protect Common St. John's wort from the sun and heat damage?
more
Should I protect Common St. John's wort from sun exposure?
more
What will happen if Common St. John's wort gets inadequate sunlight?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Common St. John's wort doesn't need much pruning. To promote more lush growth, trim 1/5-1/4 of the total branch length by the end of spring or early summer, which promotes new branches to sprout. Common St. John's wort buds and leaves both grow in pairs. Generally speaking, cutting one branch off promotes the pair of buds beneath the incision to develop into two branches.
For common St. John's wort with robust growth and branches crossing inward, winter is the time for an overall pruning. As perennial herbaceous plants, you may just clip them flat with a sickle and they will revive. Common St. John's wort has a short life span, so you can also consider getting new seedlings to replace the old ones once they start to decline.
When should I prune my Common St. John's wort?
more
How can I prune my Common St. John's wort?
more
What should I do after pruning my Common St. John's wort?
more
Are there any tips for pruning my Common St. John's wort?
more
Show More more
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
plants of the Hypericum genus are widely distributed. They like warm, moist environments; the best temperature range for the plants is 20 to 26 ℃, but they can tolerate temperatures as low as -10 ℃. They require little water and endures drought, but don't tolerate waterlogged soil. Avoid watering so frequently that the soil gets waterlogged.
What is the optimal temperature for Common St. John's wort?
more
Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common St. John's wort
more
How can I protect Common St. John's wort from extreme temperatures?
more
Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common St. John's wort
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Common St. John's wort can adapt to a wide range of soil types. It grows well in most common soils (except for heavy clay) and prefers sandy loam with good drainage. A slightly acidic loam with a 5.5-7.0 pH value is ideal. Common St. John's wort is tolerant of barren soil and drought, but if the soil can't drain water well, waterlogging can cause the roots to rot.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Common St. John's wort can be propagated by seeding, cuttage, or plant division. To sow seeds yourself, sow them in a sand bed. Dust a thin layer of soil on them, water once, and sprout the seeds in temperatures of 10 to 12 ℃. Keep the potting soil moist. Transplant seedlings when they grow to 5 to 10 cm tall.
For St. John's worts with dense branches, propagation is usually performed at the end of summer by soft-branch cuttage. Choose some robust, soft branches that sprouted in the current year. Cut 10 to 15 cm-long from the tip, making sure to keep at least 2 full leaves on each branch. Insert the cut branches into the soil and keep half the length aboveground. Keep the soil and the environment moist. When the seedlings reach 20 cm tall, transplant to pots. Seedlings need to grow to 70 cm tall to move outdoors or wait until the end of the next summer.
close

Propagation

Only sow Common St. John's wort seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier.
To sow Common St. John's wort in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps:
Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing.
Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed.
Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate.
Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
plant common St. John's wort in the early spring or early fall. Choose a cool, shaded place, such as within tree shade. Remember to clear the soil first and remove weeds. Dig a planting pit slightly shorter than the diameter of the root ball and 3 times wider. If you're planting more than one sapling, avoid planting them too close, or low light and poor ventilation may result in powdery mildew. Pile some soil around the root collar (the juncture of trunk and roots) to form a gentle slope, and this helps disperse water. After planting, press the soil firmly and water thoroughly. Note the distance between each
Some plants in the Hypericum genus have subterraneous rhizomes that tend to expand in all directions. To prevent excessive expansion, it's a good idea to fence the planting spots or set brick perimeters around them to control their growth.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Common St. John's wort begins to flower at the end of spring. You can extend its flowering by giving it some shade. Especially potted it needs as much sunlight during the day as possible in spring and fall.
When common St. John's wort is planted without a brick perimeter or fence, remove overly lush-growing parts before the frost every fall to prevent it from growing too fast and expanding too wide. Eradicating this hardy plant requires multiple applications of 2,4-D herbicides.
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

more
1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
more
2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
more
3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
more
4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
more
5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

more
1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
more
2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
more
3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
more
4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
more
5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

more
1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
more
2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
more
3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
more
4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

more
1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
more
2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common St. John's wort based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More more
Flower withering
Flower withering  Flower withering  Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles  Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More more
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More more
Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More more
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_toxicity

Toxicity

Highly Toxic to Humans
Highly Toxic to Humans
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Common St. John's wort can potentially cause adverse reactions in humans with an allergy to the plant or who are taking prescription drugs that may react with it. The leaves and flowers of the plant, or products containing them, can cause adverse reactions from both external and internal uses. Symptoms of an allergic reaction may include mild to moderate symptoms such as nausea, stomach pain, decreased appetite, diarrhea, dizziness, fatigue, headache, dry mouth, confusion, sedation, photosensitivity, and restlessness. Common St. John's wort can cause severe or life-threatening side effects when combined with prescription drugs, especially antipsychotics, antidepressants, anticoagulants, and contraceptives.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_more_info

More About Common St. John's Wort

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
30 to 61 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Gold
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 3.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 100 cm

Name story

Common St. John's wort
Common St. John's wort is named as such because of its blossoms and it is harvested during the summer solstice in late June, around St John's Feast Day on 24 June. The herb would be hung on house and stall doors on St John's Feast day with the belief that it wards off evil spirits to safeguard against harm and sickness to man and livestock.

Usages

Garden Use
Common St. John's wort is an attractive garden ornamental with ornate, star-shaped flowers. It is often viewed as a weedy plant, but is grown in prairie and meadow landscapes where it is useful in attracting pollinators. Common St. John's wort is also grown in herb gardens, wildlife gardens, as borders and woodland margins.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why do leaves of my common St. John's wort turn yellow?

more more
Yellowing leaves result from many causes, including nitrogen or iron deficiencies, insufficient light, waterlogged soil (the roots of plants need oxygen to grow), or dehydrated soil. If new leaves are yellow with green veins, it usually indicates an iron deficiency. If older leaves turn yellow while the new leaves are still green, it usually means a lack of nitrogen.
Nitrogen deficiency is more common than iron deficiency, but both can be solved using appropriate fertilizer. Keep the soil properly moist, but free of standing water. If leaves turn yellow right after a transplant but the newly-grown leaves are green, it may be due to the plant's dormancy.

Why doesn't my common St. John's wort bloom?

more more
There are many reasons for this phenomenon:
  • It might be because of insufficient light. Common St. John's wort can grow in shaded, cool places, but it blooms more abundantly with ample sunlight.
  • Inappropriate fertilizing. Fertilizers with high nitrogen content can cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and a lack of blooms.
  • Pruning at the wrong time can also cause failure to bloom.
  • It may be that your specific variety doesn't adapt well to where you planted it.
  • It may also be too early for it to flower. Wait a bit longer and see.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Herb
check-health

Check Its Health

more
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

more
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
check
Chalky, Loam
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
more
2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
product icon close
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
product icon close
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cookie Management Tool
In addition to managing cookies through your browser or device, you can change your cookie settings below.
Necessary Cookies
Necessary cookies enable core functionality. The website cannot function properly without these cookies, and can only be disabled by changing your browser preferences.
Analytical Cookies
Analytical cookies help us to improve our application/website by collecting and reporting information on its usage.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
_pta PictureThis Analytics We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_ga
Source
Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
This page looks better in the app
Open