To water Garden balsam, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Garden balsam is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Garden balsam as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Garden balsam that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Garden balsam, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.
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How to Care for Garden Balsam
Garden balsam has been a favorite for European gardens since the Victorian era, although its flatter-flowered cousin has become increasingly more popular. The garden balsam attracts pollinators as well as nectar-feeding birds. The genus name, "Impatiens," which means, "impatient," references the plant's tendency to explosively throw its seeds away from itself.
Symbolism
Leave me alone
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Partial sun
Basic Care Guide
Water
Garden balsam likes a sufficient amount of water, but are not resistant to waterlogging or drought. If too much water is applied, it easily accumulates and causes root rot and withered leaves. If watering is inadequate, the plants will suffer and their leaves and flowers will drop. When the weather is hot in summer, plants are usually watered about once every 2 days. Be careful not to water at noon when the temperature is highest; it is best to do it in the morning or evening.
If the plant appears yellow or withered, spray water first and then water. The weather is cooler in spring and fall with less water transpiration, so watering can be done once every 5 days. When the air is dry in summer and fall, spray more water to maintain relatively high humidity in the environment. However, be sure that there is no accumulated water in the soil. Otherwise, the plants will die from waterlogging.
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What is the best way to water my Garden balsam?
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What should I do if I water my Garden balsam too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Garden balsam is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Garden balsam is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Garden balsam that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Garden balsam, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Garden balsam?
Garden balsam needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Garden balsam. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Garden balsam grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Garden balsam that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Garden balsam a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Garden balsam need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Garden balsam. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Garden balsam. Typically, you should give your Garden balsam about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Garden balsam in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Garden balsam enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Garden balsam. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Garden balsam are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Garden balsam may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Garden balsam as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Garden balsam through the seasons?
You can expect your Garden balsam’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Garden balsam, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Garden balsam that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Garden balsam is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Garden balsam at different growth stages?
Garden balsam will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Garden balsam as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Garden balsam will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Garden balsam will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Garden balsam indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Garden balsam grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Garden balsam needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Garden balsam water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Fertilizer
Before sowing garden balsam, a small amount of organic fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer can be mixed in the cultivation soil. After the seedlings grow out, they can be fertilized every two months in spring and summer, using a balanced water-soluble fertilizer. If foliar feeding is applied, it is best to spray water again 2 hours after fertilization to prevent the accumulation of fertilizer on the leaves, which can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Garden balsam?
Plants need nutrients to survive; most gardeners, regardless of experience, are well aware of this factor. However, without food, Garden balsam will die out soon after the first pollination. Therefore, providing the right type of nutrients in the right amounts is the best way to keep Garden balsam going throughout the blooming season and producing large, beautiful flowers.
Fertilizer also helps Garden balsam build a large, healthy root system. This plant needs all the help it can get since its root system is very thin and easily damaged. Fertilizing at planting helps Garden balsam build a solid root structure that not only provides stability to the plant, but also sets the stage for a sensational flowering performance. When timed correctly, fertilization can greatly extend Garden balsam's flowering period.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Garden balsam?
Garden balsam puts on tremendous growth early in the growing season, once the danger of the last frost has passed. It’s during this time that Garden balsam should be fertilized; more specifically, during planting. The idea is to apply when the plant is first planted in the ground or in planters; however you choose to plant it. This will be the only dose of fertilizer until later in the year, when blooms are in full force.
Once the season is in full swing and Garden balsam has opened most of its blooms at full size, it’s time to start fertilizing again. Around the time when blooms are at peak output, begin fertilizing again once every three to four weeks, as weather permits. Then, after Garden balsam starts to put out fewer new blooms, stop fertilizing; there’s no need to fertilize when the plant can’t produce any more blooms.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Garden balsam?
While regular fertilizing is important for Garden balsam, it absolutely can be applied at the wrong time. Some situations call for holding back the fertilizer once in a while. These are usually climate related, but they also include a variety of controllable factors. Essentially, when something is wrong with the plant, the soil, or the climate, wait it out until things have been smoothed over and the plant has recovered.
An example of when not to fertilize is if there are severe or unexpected changes in the weather. If a cold nap suddenly comes in the middle of summer, wait until it’s warm again to start fertilizing. The same stands for if the soil becomes too dry or too packed to absorb anything. At this point, fertilizer will be going straight to the roots, rather than being diffused by soil before it reaches them. As you can imagine, the roots of Garden balsam aren’t very fond of that.
When temperatures soar during the hottest parts of the day into the 90-degree fahrenheit range, don’t apply fertilizer. Since fertilizer can be broken down at various speeds depending on temperature, it’s especially important not to allow hot temperatures to break it down too quickly. Pests or diseases should also be treated and cleared up before re-fertilizing.
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What type of fertilizer does my Garden balsam need?
Most types of Garden balsam need the same general balance of nutrients from fertilizer. These should come in the form of a fertilizer that’s formulated specifically for high-yield blooming plants. A fertilizer with a higher level of phosphorus is the best option. This type of fertilizer has a higher P number in its NPK number, for example 10-30-10.
Several fertilizer brands sell a fertilizer that’s perfect for blooming plants like Garden balsam, which are an easy and fuss-free way to provide the right nutrients. If you do choose to use a pre-mixed fertilizer, follow the directions on the package to prevent Garden balsam from getting too much or too little fertilizer, both of which can cause the plant to grow poorly or even wilt entirely.
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How do I fertilize my Garden balsam?
Depending on the type of fertilizer you have, specific fertilizing instructions may vary. However, there are a few general tips for applying most types of fertilizer to Garden balsam. The first fertilizer application, which should be when you first plant Garden balsam, will likely consist of mixing the recommended amount of fertilizer into the soil before planting and watering in the Garden balsam.
Subsequent fertilizing may look a little different. For pellet fertilizers, simply mix the pellets into the top inch of soil around the outer edge of the plant, where the roots are. Water them in very well at first, then water regularly after that. Other fertilizers may be mixed into a watering can and applied just like a regular watering. Follow any instructions on fertilizer packaging for consistency, but if you’d rather keep things on a regular schedule, shoot for every three to four weeks.
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What happens if I fertilize my Garden balsam too much?
Over-fertilizing is a very easy mistake to make for first-time gardeners, or even for experienced gardeners trying out a new product. Fortunately, Garden balsam makes this issue known very well by displaying several signs of distress. You may notice that its leaves are yellowing quickly, the foliage may wilt, or new blooms may be under-developed. These are all clear signs of too much food.
When you fertilize Garden balsam too frequently, you create uninhabitable soil conditions. Soil may become too hot, which is a term used to describe when soil is too saturated with minerals, nutrients, or compost, and ends up burning the roots of anything planted in it. It’s a good idea to flush out the soil well once a month or so, just by watering twice as much as normal with good drainage.
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Sunlight
Garden balsam likes a full sun environment. Ample sunlight can make plants grow better and promote flowering. Therefore, at least 8 hours of light must be guaranteed every day. However, in hot summer seasons, be careful with direct sunlight, and use shade to avoid sunburns. When growing plants indoors during winter, it is necessary to move garden balsam to a place with plenty of sunlight. This is conducive to plant growth and prolonged blooming time.
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How many hours of sunlight does Garden balsam need to grow?
The Garden balsam prefers partial sunlight and will do well with a minimum of 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day. When planting the Garden balsam in your garden, it's best to choose a spot that has morning sun and afternoon shade. You can also plant the Garden balsam under a tree that provides filtered sunlight. The Garden balsam can be grown in containers and placed on a patio, balcony, or porch, but they should be moved around to get the right amount of light throughout the day.
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What will happen if Garden balsam doesn’t get enough sunlight?
When the Garden balsam does not get enough sunlight, they will not grow well and will become leggy, with thin and long stems that tend to seek sunlight. They will not bloom or produce seeds in the shade. They will also develop yellow or pale green leaves, which will stunt their growth. The Garden balsam will become more susceptible to diseases and pests if they are not getting enough light.
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What will happen if Garden balsam gets too much sunlight?
The Garden balsam can be damaged by too much sunlight, especially during the hot summer months. They will develop brown spots on the leaves and flowers, and the leaves may even start to fall off. The Garden balsam may also become dehydrated, and the leaves may wilt. If you notice any of these signs, move the Garden balsam to a location with more shade or reduce the amount of sunlight they are getting.
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Cautions and tips
When planting the Garden balsam, it's important to choose a spot that provides the right amount of sunlight. The Garden balsam prefers partial sunlight, and you should avoid planting them in areas that are in full sun all day. If you are growing Garden balsam in a container, you should also choose a location that can tolerate partial sunlight or provide shade in the appropriate position to ensure they get the right amount of sunlight. When transplanting the Garden balsam, it's important to avoid sudden sunlight exposure. Give the Garden balsam time to mature before transplanting outside.
In conclusion, the Garden balsam prefers partial sunlight and can grow well with a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct sunlight each day. They can be grown in containers and placed on a patio, balcony, or porch, but they should be moved around to get the right amount of light throughout the day. The Garden balsam will not grow well if they do not get enough sunlight and can be damaged by too much sunlight, especially during the hot summer months. When planting the Garden balsam, it's important to choose a spot that provides the right amount of sunlight and to avoid sudden sunlight exposure when transplanting.
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Pruning
Generally, when garden balsam grows to 25 cm high, you can pinch, i.e. remove the buds, on the tops of branches. For thick, old branches, hard pruning is required to promote the re-germination of new branches, while the delicate branches can be lightly pruned as appropriate. Too-dense branches should be regularly thinned to ensure that the plant's overall growth is even and that light can reach inside the plant to promote nutrient accumulation and blossoming.
Note that it is best to disinfect pruned garden balsam to avoid wound infection and pests. Disinfectant can be applied with a small amount of potassium permanganate solution. Be sure to maintain air circulation and keep the surrounding environment clean.
Is pruning necessary for my Garden balsam?
Garden balsam is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Garden balsam to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Garden balsam?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Garden balsam above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Garden balsam?
Garden balsam leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Garden balsam?
- Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
- Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
- Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Garden balsam?
Expect to prune your Garden balsam every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Garden balsam in different seasons?
Because Garden balsam is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) and African Impatiens, also known as busy lizzie (Impatiens walleriana), are perennials. They can overwinter outdoors in tropical and subtropical areas and can be cultivated as annuals in other regions. When winter comes, you can move potted garden balsam indoors. Garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina) is a true annual herbaceous plant. No matter how mild the climate is, it will complete its life cycle within a year and wither, so there is no requirement for winter temperatures.
The seeds of garden balsam can germinate in the second year, so once they are planted in the garden you can basically see them every year. You can also collect its seeds, sow them indoors in the spring, cultivate seedlings, and then transplant them into flower pots or gardens when the weather gets warmer.
Garden balsam prefers warm and humid climatic conditions, and the suitable temperature range for their growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is below 5 ℃, their growth will be jeopardized. When the temperature exceeds 30 ℃, blooming will be affected and flowers will fall easily. Therefore, it is recommended to take some cooling measures. These plants need more water to keep the soil moist because drought is unfavorable for root and leaf growth.
What is the optimal temperature for Garden balsam?
The best temperature for Garden balsam depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Garden balsam has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Garden balsam may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Garden balsam will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Garden balsam. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Garden balsam to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Garden balsam
If this is the first year of your Garden balsam outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Garden balsam, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Garden balsam inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Garden balsam in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Garden balsam should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Garden balsam from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Garden balsam from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Garden balsam in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Garden balsam is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Garden balsam to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Garden balsam
During the cold winter months, Garden balsam needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Garden balsam, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Garden balsam. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Garden balsam will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
Garden balsam is not tolerant of drought or accumulated water. Thus, the best soil for them is fertile, loose, well-drained, sandy soil with a suitable pH of 6-6.5, which is slightly acidic. Never use damping soil as a culture medium. If compacted soil is found, be sure to loosen and mix it with other substrates to improve its permeability, which is good for garden balsam growth.
Planting
It is best to sow garden balsam every spring. You can sow them directly in the garden, or you can first plant them in a seedling tray. The culture medium can be selected from a slightly acid leaf mold or seed-starting mix. Spread the seeds on the soil, cover them with a layer of soil, and water again. Before the seeds germinate, a small amount of water can be provided in the morning or evening to keep the soil moist.
If the temperature is appropriate (about 25 ℃), garden balsam will usually sprout in about 5 days. When the seedlings grow 3-5 true leaves or reach 10 cm high, they can be transplanted. If they are planted in a garden, the distance between each plant should be 20 to 30 cm. Before transplanting, you can apply a little base fertilizer. After transplanting, remember to water plants once to ensure healthy growth.
Transplanting
The best time for transplanting garden balsam is from late spring to early autumn, as the warmer months promote rapid growth. Ensure the transplant site has well-draining soil and receives partial sunlight. Remember to handle the delicate roots with care during the process.
More About How-Tos
Water
Every week
Lighting
Partial sun
Garden balsam thrives in areas that expose it to a moderate amount of sunlight daily, though it's flexible enough to endure more intense light exposure. Originating from environments with mixed sunlight conditions, it has adapted to these varying sunlight intensities. However, too much or not enough light can hinder healthy development, leading to inhibited flowering or weak growth.
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Garden balsam is native to warmer landscapes, leanings towards temperatures of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). A hot summer environment is key to its thriving condition. In cold seasons, a heated indoor setting is recommended to simulate its native climate.
Transplant
6-8 inches
The best time for transplanting garden balsam is from late spring to early autumn, as the warmer months promote rapid growth. Ensure the transplant site has well-draining soil and receives partial sunlight. Remember to handle the delicate roots with care during the process.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.
1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.
2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.
3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.
1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.
2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.
3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.
4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.
5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:
1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.
2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.
3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.
4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.
1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.
2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Garden balsam based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Garden Balsam
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Annual
Spread
30 to 40 cm
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple
Red
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
60 to 100 cm
Name story
Garden balsam
G. Francis, in the Favorites of the Flowers Garden (1844) quoted that "it may be ranked amongst the most elegant annuals that the warmest climates have afforded us". The specific epithet balsamina refers to the meaning of balsam. As it is a very popular garden plant, it is called the garden balsam.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
The flower liquid may dye fingernails and is long-lasting.
Garden Use
The garden balsam is a commonly planted annual, especially in courtyard, cottage, and tropical gardens. Prized for its bright blooms and explosive seed discharges, it is used for its ability to add bright colors to shady spots and attract pollinators. It is often planted with hostas, ferns, tiarella because they also do well in shady areas.
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Common Problems
Why do my garden balsam barely bloom?
Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer promotes the vegetative growth of the plant but also inhibits blooming. Use a lower nitrogen fertilizer before the blooming period in summer. This issue may also be caused by insufficient light or excessive watering. Please follow the care guide to provide plants with the conditions they need to grow.
Can garden balsam self-seed?
When the seeds of garden balsam are ripe, the seed coat will burst and shrink sharply, and the seeds will be ejected from the inside. The spreading range can reach about 1 m. After the seeds have fallen to the ground, they germinate when the environment reaches the appropriate temperature and grow new plants.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant ![trouble-image]()
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1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. Branches ![trouble-image]()
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1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. Stems ![trouble-image]()
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers ![trouble-image]()
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1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. ![trouble-image]()
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4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. Leaves ![trouble-image]()
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1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. ![trouble-image]()
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5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
show more ![show-more]()
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Garden Balsam
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
How to Care for Garden Balsam
Garden balsam has been a favorite for European gardens since the Victorian era, although its flatter-flowered cousin has become increasingly more popular. The garden balsam attracts pollinators as well as nectar-feeding birds. The genus name, "Impatiens," which means, "impatient," references the plant's tendency to explosively throw its seeds away from itself.
Symbolism
Leave me alone
Every week
Water ![Water detail]()
Partial sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Basic Care Guide
Water
Garden balsam likes a sufficient amount of water, but are not resistant to waterlogging or drought. If too much water is applied, it easily accumulates and causes root rot and withered leaves. If watering is inadequate, the plants will suffer and their leaves and flowers will drop. When the weather is hot in summer, plants are usually watered about once every 2 days. Be careful not to water at noon when the temperature is highest; it is best to do it in the morning or evening.
If the plant appears yellow or withered, spray water first and then water. The weather is cooler in spring and fall with less water transpiration, so watering can be done once every 5 days. When the air is dry in summer and fall, spray more water to maintain relatively high humidity in the environment. However, be sure that there is no accumulated water in the soil. Otherwise, the plants will die from waterlogging.
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Fertilizer
Before sowing garden balsam, a small amount of organic fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer can be mixed in the cultivation soil. After the seedlings grow out, they can be fertilized every two months in spring and summer, using a balanced water-soluble fertilizer. If foliar feeding is applied, it is best to spray water again 2 hours after fertilization to prevent the accumulation of fertilizer on the leaves, which can burn the leaves.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Garden balsam?
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Garden balsam?
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Sunlight
Garden balsam likes a full sun environment. Ample sunlight can make plants grow better and promote flowering. Therefore, at least 8 hours of light must be guaranteed every day. However, in hot summer seasons, be careful with direct sunlight, and use shade to avoid sunburns. When growing plants indoors during winter, it is necessary to move garden balsam to a place with plenty of sunlight. This is conducive to plant growth and prolonged blooming time.
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Cautions and tips
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Pruning
Generally, when garden balsam grows to 25 cm high, you can pinch, i.e. remove the buds, on the tops of branches. For thick, old branches, hard pruning is required to promote the re-germination of new branches, while the delicate branches can be lightly pruned as appropriate. Too-dense branches should be regularly thinned to ensure that the plant's overall growth is even and that light can reach inside the plant to promote nutrient accumulation and blossoming.
Note that it is best to disinfect pruned garden balsam to avoid wound infection and pests. Disinfectant can be applied with a small amount of potassium permanganate solution. Be sure to maintain air circulation and keep the surrounding environment clean.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) and African Impatiens, also known as busy lizzie (Impatiens walleriana), are perennials. They can overwinter outdoors in tropical and subtropical areas and can be cultivated as annuals in other regions. When winter comes, you can move potted garden balsam indoors. Garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina) is a true annual herbaceous plant. No matter how mild the climate is, it will complete its life cycle within a year and wither, so there is no requirement for winter temperatures.
The seeds of garden balsam can germinate in the second year, so once they are planted in the garden you can basically see them every year. You can also collect its seeds, sow them indoors in the spring, cultivate seedlings, and then transplant them into flower pots or gardens when the weather gets warmer.
Garden balsam prefers warm and humid climatic conditions, and the suitable temperature range for their growth is 15 to 25 ℃. When the temperature is below 5 ℃, their growth will be jeopardized. When the temperature exceeds 30 ℃, blooming will be affected and flowers will fall easily. Therefore, it is recommended to take some cooling measures. These plants need more water to keep the soil moist because drought is unfavorable for root and leaf growth.
What is the optimal temperature for Garden balsam?
Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Garden balsam
How can I protect Garden balsam from extreme temperatures?
Dormant season temperature recommendations for Garden balsam
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Soil
Garden balsam is not tolerant of drought or accumulated water. Thus, the best soil for them is fertile, loose, well-drained, sandy soil with a suitable pH of 6-6.5, which is slightly acidic. Never use damping soil as a culture medium. If compacted soil is found, be sure to loosen and mix it with other substrates to improve its permeability, which is good for garden balsam growth.
Planting
It is best to sow garden balsam every spring. You can sow them directly in the garden, or you can first plant them in a seedling tray. The culture medium can be selected from a slightly acid leaf mold or seed-starting mix. Spread the seeds on the soil, cover them with a layer of soil, and water again. Before the seeds germinate, a small amount of water can be provided in the morning or evening to keep the soil moist.
If the temperature is appropriate (about 25 ℃), garden balsam will usually sprout in about 5 days. When the seedlings grow 3-5 true leaves or reach 10 cm high, they can be transplanted. If they are planted in a garden, the distance between each plant should be 20 to 30 cm. Before transplanting, you can apply a little base fertilizer. After transplanting, remember to water plants once to ensure healthy growth.
Transplanting
The best time for transplanting garden balsam is from late spring to early autumn, as the warmer months promote rapid growth. Ensure the transplant site has well-draining soil and receives partial sunlight. Remember to handle the delicate roots with care during the process.
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.
1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.
2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.
3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.
1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.
2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.
3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.
4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.
5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:
1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.
2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.
3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.
4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.
1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.
2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Garden balsam based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Garden Balsam
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Annual
Spread
30 to 40 cm
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple
Red
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
60 to 100 cm
Name story
Garden balsam
G. Francis, in the Favorites of the Flowers Garden (1844) quoted that "it may be ranked amongst the most elegant annuals that the warmest climates have afforded us". The specific epithet balsamina refers to the meaning of balsam. As it is a very popular garden plant, it is called the garden balsam.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
The flower liquid may dye fingernails and is long-lasting.
Garden Use
The garden balsam is a commonly planted annual, especially in courtyard, cottage, and tropical gardens. Prized for its bright blooms and explosive seed discharges, it is used for its ability to add bright colors to shady spots and attract pollinators. It is often planted with hostas, ferns, tiarella because they also do well in shady areas.
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Common Problems
Why do my garden balsam barely bloom?
Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer promotes the vegetative growth of the plant but also inhibits blooming. Use a lower nitrogen fertilizer before the blooming period in summer. This issue may also be caused by insufficient light or excessive watering. Please follow the care guide to provide plants with the conditions they need to grow.
Can garden balsam self-seed?
When the seeds of garden balsam are ripe, the seed coat will burst and shrink sharply, and the seeds will be ejected from the inside. The spreading range can reach about 1 m. After the seeds have fallen to the ground, they germinate when the environment reaches the appropriate temperature and grow new plants.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. 
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. 
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. 
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Partial sun, Full sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Water
How Often Should I Water Garden Balsam?
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Seedling
Every 3 days
Growing
Every 5 days
Flowering
Every 3 days
Fruiting
Every 4 days
Calculated based on: Chicago / March
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Garden balsam is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Garden balsam is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Garden balsam thrives in areas that expose it to a moderate amount of sunlight daily, though it's flexible enough to endure more intense light exposure. Originating from environments with mixed sunlight conditions, it has adapted to these varying sunlight intensities. However, too much or not enough light can hinder healthy development, leading to inhibited flowering or weak growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Garden balsam thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be easily noticeable, when cultivated indoors with inadequate light, they may become apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Slower or no new growth
Garden balsam enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Impact on flowering and fruiting
Your plant may not show obvious abnormalities due to insufficient sunlight, but it can have adverse effects on future flowering and fruiting.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your garden balsam may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Garden balsam thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Despite being tolerant of different light conditions, it may experience sunburn, which often manifests with subtle and not easily visible symptoms.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Garden balsam is native to warmer landscapes, leanings towards temperatures of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). A hot summer environment is key to its thriving condition. In cold seasons, a heated indoor setting is recommended to simulate its native climate.
Regional wintering strategies
Garden balsam has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Garden balsam is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Garden balsam should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Garden Balsam?
The best time for transplanting garden balsam is from late spring to early autumn, as the warmer months promote rapid growth. Ensure the transplant site has well-draining soil and receives partial sunlight. Remember to handle the delicate roots with care during the process.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Garden Balsam?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Garden Balsam?
The finest period to relocate garden balsam is between the onset of summer and early autumn. This time frame allows the plant to establish roots before the first frost. Moving garden balsam in this span presents you with healthier, more vibrant blooms. So, start the pre-transplanting preparations a bit early, it's worth it!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Garden Balsam Plants?
For transplanting garden balsam, it's ideal to space each plant about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart from one another. This allows for proper room to grow and helps prevent overcrowding.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Garden Balsam Transplanting?
To provide the best foundation for garden balsam, aim for well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH, around 6.0-6.5. Incorporate organic matter, like compost, and a balanced slow-release fertilizer for a nutrient-rich base.
Where Should You Relocate Your Garden Balsam?
Select a location for garden balsam that receives full sun to partial shade, ensuring your plants get about 4-6 hours of sunlight daily. This helps garden balsam thrive and produce vibrant blooms.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Garden Balsam?
Gardening gloves
To protect your hands while working with soil and plant.
Trowel
To dig a hole in the ground for transplanting the garden balsam plant.
Shovel or spade
To remove the garden balsam plant from its original location.
Watering can or hose
To water the garden balsam before and after transplanting.
Organic compost or well-rotted manure
To improve soil fertility and structure where the garden balsam will be transplanted.
How Do You Remove Garden Balsam from the Soil?
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear any weeds, stones, or debris from the transplanting site.
Step2 Soil Amendment
Mix organic compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to enhance fertility and structure.
Step3 Digging the Hole
Use a trowel to dig a hole that is twice the width and slightly deeper than the garden balsam's root ball.
Step4 Planting
Carefully place the garden balsam in the hole, positioning it at the same soil level as it was in its original location. Gently spread the roots out in the hole.
Step5 Filling the Hole
Fill the hole with soil, pressing it firmly around the plant to eliminate any air pockets.
Step6 Watering
Immediately water the garden balsam thoroughly to settle the soil and help establish its roots in the new location.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Garden Balsam
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear any weeds, stones, or debris from the transplanting site.
Step2 Soil Amendment
Mix organic compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to enhance fertility and structure.
Step3 Digging the Hole
Use a trowel to dig a hole that is twice the width and slightly deeper than the garden balsam's root ball.
Step4 Planting
Carefully place the garden balsam in the hole, positioning it at the same soil level as it was in its original location. Gently spread the roots out in the hole.
Step5 Filling the Hole
Fill the hole with soil, pressing it firmly around the plant to eliminate any air pockets.
Step6 Watering
Immediately water the garden balsam thoroughly to settle the soil and help establish its roots in the new location.
How Do You Care For Garden Balsam After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the garden balsam consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks to help establish strong roots.
Mulching
Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the garden balsam to help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Monitoring
Regularly inspect the garden balsam for signs of stress, pests, or diseases, and address any issues promptly.
Pruning
Remove any dead or damaged foliage to encourage healthy growth and prevent the spread of diseases.
Fertilizing
After the garden balsam has settled into its new location and is showing signs of new growth, apply an appropriate fertilizer to provide additional nutrients and support its growth.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Garden Balsam Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant garden balsam?
It's ideal to transplant garden balsam from the start of summer to the onset of fall. This timing ensures sufficient warmth for robust growth.
What's the ideal distance between garden balsam when transplanting?
To ensure garden balsam growth isn't hindered, maintain a spacing of 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) between each plant during transplantation.
My garden balsam seems droopy after transplanting. What could be the issue?
Garden balsam may seem droopy due to transplant shock. Regular watering and shielding the plant from direct sunlight can aid recovery.
Why do my transplanted garden balsam leaves turn yellow?
Yellowing in garden balsam after transplantation may indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Adjust your watering schedule and ensure the soil drains well.
How should I ensure successful transplantation of garden balsam?
Start with well-conditioned soil, ensure the correct spacing, and water consistently but not overly. Most importantly, do it in the recommended season.
What soil conditions are best for transplanting garden balsam?
Garden balsam favors well-drained, fertile soil for optimal growth. If your soil is poor, consider improving its condition using compost or organic matter.
Why are the flowers of my transplanted garden balsam not blooming?
Garden balsam may not bloom if it's not receiving enough light or if it's over-fertilized. Reevaluate your sun and fertilizer application.
Can I transplant garden balsam in a container?
Absolutely! You can transplant garden balsam into a pot. Just make sure it's large enough and has decent drainage to prevent root rot.
What to do if the transplanted garden balsam doesn't show new growth?
Ensure the garden balsam is watered regularly, receiving sufficient light, and planted in nutrient-rich soil. Also, check for pests or diseases.
Can garden balsam tolerate cold temperatures?
Garden balsam is an annual and warm-season plant. It may not perform well at colder temperatures, which is why we transplant it in the warmer months.
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