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How to Care for Florist Kalanchoe

Florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) originates from Madagascar and has been a popular houseplant since the 1930s. Unlike most other succulents that are grown for their interesting leaves, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is valued for the colorful flowerheads it produces in autumn and winter. This is the reason it is commonly gifted during holidays, earning it another name - Christmas kalanchoe. It is toxic to pets.
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Symbolism

Longevity, health, prosperity, wealth
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Florist kalanchoe
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Florist kalanchoe
Florist kalanchoe
Florist kalanchoe
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Florist kalanchoe doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Florist kalanchoe?
The proper way to water Florist kalanchoe requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Florist kalanchoe will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Florist kalanchoe too much or too little?
An overwatered Florist kalanchoe is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Florist kalanchoe to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Florist kalanchoe shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Florist kalanchoe in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Florist kalanchoe?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Florist kalanchoe are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Florist kalanchoe to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Florist kalanchoe need?
Overall, Florist kalanchoe does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Florist kalanchoe enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Florist kalanchoe, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Florist kalanchoe through the seasons?
As mentioned, Florist kalanchoe needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Florist kalanchoes begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Florist kalanchoe at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Florist kalanchoe will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Florist kalanchoe prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Florist kalanchoe may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Florist kalanchoes can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Florist kalanchoe may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Florist kalanchoe indoors and outdoors?
Growing Florist kalanchoes outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Florist kalanchoe will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Florist kalanchoes at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too much nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.

Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Florist kalanchoe adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Florist kalanchoe does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Florist kalanchoe adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Florist kalanchoe only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Florist kalanchoe in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Florist kalanchoe has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Florist kalanchoe?
Fertilizing Florist kalanchoe adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Florist kalanchoe?
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Florist kalanchoe only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Florist kalanchoe in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Florist kalanchoe?
Like most plants, Florist kalanchoe has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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What type of fertilizer does my Florist kalanchoe need?
It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Florist kalanchoe?
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Florist kalanchoe too much?
Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Generally speaking, florist kalanchoe needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Florist kalanchoe need to grow?
Florist kalanchoe can grow in partial sun, but they still require a significant amount of light to thrive. They should get at least 3-6 hours of direct or indirect sunlight each day. It is important to note that the amount of sunlight will depend on the specific species of Florist kalanchoe and their natural habitat.
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What will happen if Florist kalanchoe doesn’t get enough sunlight?
Without enough sunlight, Florist kalanchoe will become weak and may not grow properly. They may also develop etiolation (leggy growth), and the leaves may become pale or discolored. Florist kalanchoe will also be more susceptible to pests and diseases if they do not receive enough sunlight.
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What will happen if Florist kalanchoe gets too much sunlight?
If Florist kalanchoe receives too much direct sunlight, they may become sunburned, resulting in brown spots on the leaves or stems. In extreme cases, the plant may become dehydrated and wilt. It is important to monitor the amount of sunlight that Florist kalanchoe is receiving and make adjustments as needed.
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Cautions and tips
It is best to gradually introduce Florist kalanchoe to more sunlight to prevent shock and sunburn. Start by placing them in partial sun for a few hours each day and gradually increase the amount of time they spend in the sun. It is also important to provide shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sunburn. When watering Florist kalanchoe, it is important to avoid getting water on the leaves or in the crown of the plant. This can cause the plant to become burned or develop fungal diseases. Watering in the morning and avoiding watering in the evening can help prevent these issues. Florist kalanchoe may benefit from fertilization during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. However, it is important to use a fertilizer specifically formulated for succulent plants and to follow the instructions carefully.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. this depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

The suitable growth temperature of florist kalanchoe is above 15 ℃, and it can grow normally in spring, summer and autumn. It can tolerate high temperature, but it will enter the dormancy period when the temperature is higher than 33 ℃ (Sedum lineare is a special species that still grows well under high temperature in summer.). When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move florist kalanchoe indoor to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death.
If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant. When it enters its dormancy, it needs less watering; during its growing season, a small amount of water is needed.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Florist kalanchoe?
To create the best possible environment for Florist kalanchoe, you’ll want to grow your Florist kalanchoe in temperatures between 60-75℉ (15-25℃). They can tolerate marginally higher and lower temperatures, but this range will help facilitate optimal growth.
Florist kalanchoe that experience temperatures below 40℉(10℃) or above 95℉(35℃) will go into a state of dormancy, halting their growth. Staying above 95℉ (35℃) for anything other than a short period can damage these plants; enough time in high temperatures may kill them entirely.
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Does Florist kalanchoe require different temperatures for different growing phases?
Florist kalanchoe do require different temperatures to enter their different phases of life, primarily the dormant phase they reach during summer and their growing phase during the winter. Florist kalanchoe need cooler temperatures to actively grow, but not too cold; anything below 40℉(10℃) will push them into a state of dormancy regardless of season.
High temperatures can also induce a dormant state, restricting growth and reducing the plant's watering needs. Too much watering during dormancy can drown the plant and cause root rot, so make sure to only water the soil when it feels dry.
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Three tips for keeping Florist kalanchoe temperature under control
Tip #1: Don’t Over-Water When Temperatures Are High
It may seem counterintuitive, but Florist kalanchoe actually need less water during summer. To see if your plants have enough moisture, check the soil by putting your pointer finger two inches (5 cm) below the surface and feeling to see if it's dry. If it's already wet and you continue to water it, you can cause the roots of your plant to rot.
Tip #2: Don’t Panic If Temperatures Occasionally Get Too High or Low
While you’ll want to keep your Florist kalanchoe in the optimal temperature range as much as possible, they won’t die instantly if temperatures drop or rise. Florist kalanchoe have even been known to survive at temperatures below 0 ℃ for small amounts of time. Temperature fluctuations will usually cause your plants to enter a state of dormancy, going into survival mode and utilizing less water. You’ll want to return them to the correct range as soon as possible, but don’t think all is lost if the temperature suddenly shifts.
Tip #3: Avoid Placing Your Florist kalanchoe in Extreme Heat
When exposed to very high temperatures for extended periods of time, Florist kalanchoe will begin to change and experience damage. The changes may seem aesthetically pleasing at first, with the leaves changing into muted shades of red, yellow, and orange. But eventually they will begin to wither as the plant succumbs to sun damage, eventually stopping it's growth entirely and causing your Florist kalanchoe to die.
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Does Florist kalanchoe need different temperatures for different seasons?
Florist kalanchoe actively grow in winter, though their flowers won’t appear until the warmer temperatures of spring. If you are planting these succulents indoors, the seasons won’t affect their temperature requirements very much. The focus will be more on the ability for the plants to get the right amount of sunlight.
Winters can make it more difficult for Florist kalanchoe to get the right amount of light, while summers can provide an overabundance. Too much sunlight can damage the leaves and stems of the plant, slowing their growth or halting it entirely. Keep your Florist kalanchoe in an area with bright but indirect light to see the best results.
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What is the best way to keep my Florist kalanchoe at the optimal temperature?
If you are growing your Florist kalanchoe indoors, you’ll want them kept in an area of your home with a climate control system. This system can be an A/C unit if you live in a warmer region or a heater if you live in a colder region, though the air from either should not come directly in contact with the plants. Try to have as much natural air as possible without drastically shifting the surrounding temperature. You’ll also want to be mindful of the sunlight they experience, keeping them in rooms with ample, but indirect, window lighting.
If your Florist kalanchoe is outside, you’ll want to control the temperature by positioning it for optimum sunlight. This means avoiding the direct sunlight and heat of midday; Florist kalanchoe is full sun or partial shade plants, dappled sunlight filtered through a tree, plant, or fabric structure is the best. An overabundance of sunlight can also expose them to high temperatures, putting them at risk of dormancy and damage.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Soil is very important for the growth of florist kalanchoe, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss : perlite : volcanic rock : vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.

Propagation

Florist kalanchoe is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Florist kalanchoes have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Florist kalanchoe. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Florist kalanchoe. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Florist kalanchoe dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Florist kalanchoe. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Florist kalanchoe to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Florist kalanchoe. After this period, Florist kalanchoe can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Transplanting florist kalanchoe thrives during mid-spring to late spring, or mid-fall to late fall, as these seasons offer stable temperatures and ample moisture. Choose a well-drained location with bright, indirect sunlight. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps protect delicate root systems.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Flower Pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Water
Every 3 weeks
Florist kalanchoe originates from arid environments, preferring infrequent watering. Only water when soil is completely dry. Overwatering can be harmful. Adjust watering based on seasonal changes.
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Lighting
Partial sun
Florist kalanchoe thrives under moderate sunlight exposure - not completely shaded, but not under intense full-day sun. Originating from environments with diffused light, it can also endure stages of less or more light. Excess exposure may burn the plant while too little could stunt growth.
Learn More
Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
For florist kalanchoe, its native growth environment requires temperatures of around 20 to 27 ℃ (68 to 81 ℉). However, it can tolerate temperatures ranging from 10 to 38 ℃ (50 to 100 ℉). For optimal growth, it prefers temperatures around 20 to 30 ℃ (68 to 86 ℉). During the winter, it can adjust to lower temperatures as long as it is kept away from drafts and cold winds.
Learn More
Transplant
1-2 feet
Transplanting florist kalanchoe thrives during mid-spring to late spring, or mid-fall to late fall, as these seasons offer stable temperatures and ample moisture. Choose a well-drained location with bright, indirect sunlight. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps protect delicate root systems.
Learn More
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation:
  1. use loose soil;
  2. use a ceramic pot with good air permeability;
  3. keep the potted plants in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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1
Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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2
Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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3
Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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4
The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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5
Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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2
Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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3
Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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2
Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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3
While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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4
Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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2
Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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3
You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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4
These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Florist kalanchoe based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Species of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana genus are extremely toxic to dogs. If you suspect your dog has eaten any quantity of a florist kalanchoe plant, you should seek veterinary attention immediately. All parts of these plants contain toxins that may affect a dog's heart and nervous systems, although the flowers are usually the most toxic. Ingestion can cause diarrhea, vomiting, excessive salivation, a loss of appetite, a loss of coordination, and general weakness. More severe cases may see seizures, an abnormal heart rate, collapse, or death.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
Many florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) varieties are toxic to cats, and immediate medical attention is mandatory when consumption is suspected. The harmful toxins called bufadienolides are present in all parts of the plant, but especially in flowers. The first symptoms of poisoning are vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, changes in heart rate, weakness, and cold extremities, but if left untreated, the poisoning can lead to cardiac arrest and death.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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care_more_info

More About Florist Kalanchoe

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 to 50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Late fall, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Yellow
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
8 to 12 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 to 50 cm

Name story

Florist kalanchoe
It is often called the florist kalanchoe because it is widely available in stores like grocery stores, supermarkets, flower shops, nurseries, etc.
Christmas kalanchoe
As Christmas approaches, it quietly blooms, and the beauty of its bright red flowers and dark green leaves draw everyone's attention. In the cold winter weather, it brings the warmth of Christmas festivities, so people like to purchase it to decorate their interiors for the Christmas season. Therefore, it is called the Christmas kalanchoe.

Usages

Environmental Protection Value
It can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen to purify air.
Garden Use
Florist kalanchoe is a perennial succulent commonly found in gardens in warm climates. It is prized for its long-flowering, bright and cheerful blooms, whilst being easy to maintain. Its spreading nature makes it suitable for ground cover. Florist kalanchoe fits in rockeries and Mediterranean gardens. Plant with for Crown of Thorns and Panda plant for color and textural contrast.
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
trouble-image
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
trouble-image
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
trouble-image
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
trouble-image
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Succulent & cactus soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
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Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Florist Kalanchoe
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Florist Kalanchoe
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Florist kalanchoe
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Florist kalanchoe
Florist kalanchoe
Florist kalanchoe

How to Care for Florist Kalanchoe

Florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) originates from Madagascar and has been a popular houseplant since the 1930s. Unlike most other succulents that are grown for their interesting leaves, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is valued for the colorful flowerheads it produces in autumn and winter. This is the reason it is commonly gifted during holidays, earning it another name - Christmas kalanchoe. It is toxic to pets.
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Symbolism

Longevity, health, prosperity, wealth
Water
Every 3 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Florist kalanchoe doesn't need much water. For many novices, the most difficult problem is how to water. In fact, it is not recommended to water at a fixed time, but more attention should be paid to the state of succulent plant and specific weather conditions. You can learn how to water the succulent plant correctly from the following five aspects.
A. Weather: in hot weather or low temperature, succulent plant will enter dormancy. In such period, watering should be reduced a little, usually once 1-2 weeks. Since the growth of succulent plant is basically stagnant when it is in dormancy, its absorption of water and nutrients is quite slow. At the same time, it is necessary to keep the environment dry and ventilated. Frequent watering can cause succulent plant to die due to black rot.
B. Time: in summer, it is better to water in the evening to avoid the sun at noon, because high temperature will make the newly watered soil stuffy which makes the root system prone to black rot; it does not matter in other seasons.
C. State of succulent plant: succulent plant will show some obvious symptoms when it is lack of water. For example, healthy leaves of Astridia velutina or Lithops sp. will wrinkle and even curl up when they are short of water. For some succulent varieties, such as Monilaria obconica and Phyllobolus resurgens, their leaves will droop and slouch when they are short of water. That's the signal of water shortage sent by the succulent plant.
D. Soil: you can also determine whether to water by observing the moisture change of the soil. For potted succulent plants, you can weigh the pot in your hand to simply judge the amount of water left in the soil, because the weight of the soil is quite different when there's sufficient water or insufficient water. In addition, if there's a gap between the outer edge of the soil and the inner edge of the pot, or the soil surface cracks, that is also a sign of water shortage.
E. Pot: for pots with good air permeability such as red pot, which is not easy to keep water, so the watering frequency can be higher; for white porcelain pot or pot without holes, the watering frequency can be lower.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Most succulent plants are used to growing in the wild where the environment is poor, so they do not need fertilization in their growth cycle. You can add a little slow-release fertilizer in early summer, and it's fine if you do not apply fertilizer. Please remember, don't fertilize it during its dormancy period, because too much nutrients that it can't absorb may cause damages to its growth.
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Fertilizer

Often found growing in rock gardens and used in xeriscaping, Florist kalanchoe adds plenty of interest and texture to the area. It is a slow-growing plant, and this affects its care. Florist kalanchoe does not require a lot of nutrients to thrive. Knowing when and how to feed your specimen will help ensure you get years of enjoyment from your plant. Fertilizing Florist kalanchoe adds nutrients to the growing medium. Even though it does store water and nutrients, applying plant food during the growing season helps support healthy growth. Fertilizing can also encourage mature specimens to produce blooms in the growing season.
While all plants benefit from additional nutrients, Florist kalanchoe only needs a light dose of fertilizer during the growing season. The frequency of fertilization should be 1-2 times a year. It is suggested to fertilize your Florist kalanchoe in the spring and autumn, but not in winter&summer when it is dormant. Be careful with repotted plants, you will want to reduce the amount of fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to wait a couple of months after repotting before you start applying fertilizer. It’s best to use a liquid plant food formulated for succulents and cacti when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe. Dilute the fertilizer with water to half-strength. You do not want the fertilizer building up in the soil. Apply the fertilizer to the base of the plant and water thoroughly, ensuring any excess moisture drains from the container or seeps into the ground.
It is easier to use liquid plant food when you are fertilizing Florist kalanchoe, but granules are another option. Follow the directions on the packaging, making sure you dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength. Whether you are using granules are liquid plant food, always apply it to the soil. Cover the granules with a thin layer of soil and water regardless of the type of plant food you are using.
Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe is a common problem with new and experienced gardeners. The plant has low nutritional needs and it’s easy to apply a little too much fertilizer. Over-fertilizing Florist kalanchoe can burn the plant’s sensitive roots resulting in its slow decay. Without its root system, the plant cannot absorb nutrients and moisture.
Like most plants, Florist kalanchoe has a dormancy period and it is when you want to stop the applications of fertilizer. In the summer and winter, the plant ceases growing, and it is when you want to stop applying fertilizer. It’s also a good idea to cease fertilizing for the first couple of months after repotting in the spring.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Generally speaking, florist kalanchoe needs sufficient scattered light which should be bright and transparent. If there is not sufficient sunlight for a long time, the plant will be spindling, the tissue will become brittle, and the original color will fade slowly, as a result, the plant will grow into a loose shape, the color will turn green and yellow, and the resistance will decline.
Strong sunlight in summer may burn its leaves and stems. When exposed to the sun, it tends to grow slowly or even stop growing, its leaves grow compactly and internodes shorten, which results in shorter plant. For some succulent plants, their old leaves wither in summer and new leaves tend to be short and compact, showing a bare rod shape as a whole. In summer, you can set up a sunshade for it or move the potted plant indoor.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep beautiful shape, some large succulent plants may need pruning. For example, in California, for echeveria planted in the garden, some redundant branches and branches that are too dense need to be cut off in spring and autumn. this depends on what you think and what the succulent plant is used for. Tools for pruning mainly include knife, scissors, and some medicines (such as sulfur powder).
In order to propagate new plants, we can also cut some leaves in spring and autumn for cutting. Stout stems with 5-6 leaves are often selected: cut it off with a knife, then smear the wound with sulfur powder, and plant it after the wound is healed. At this time, it is recommended to use a watering can to slightly wet the soil used for cutting.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The suitable growth temperature of florist kalanchoe is above 15 ℃, and it can grow normally in spring, summer and autumn. It can tolerate high temperature, but it will enter the dormancy period when the temperature is higher than 33 ℃ (Sedum lineare is a special species that still grows well under high temperature in summer.). When the temperature is lower than 5 ℃ in winter, it is recommended to move florist kalanchoe indoor to avoid irreversible frostbite or even death.
If you are in a cold region, it is not recommended to plant it directly in the garden, but as a potted plant. When it enters its dormancy, it needs less watering; during its growing season, a small amount of water is needed.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Soil is very important for the growth of florist kalanchoe, which must be loose and ventilated. Generally speaking, the soil is divided into three layers from top to bottom, namely, the top deco layer, the middle planting layer, and the lower hydrophobic layer, which requires different types of soils.
The top deco soil is paved on the soil surface for the decoration and fixation of plants. Some can prevent diseases and insect pests. When it's completely dry, it's time to water. There are many types of soil that can be used as top deco soil, such as white pebble, akadama soil, kiryuu sands, kanuma soil, etc. You can select proper ones according to different pots and plants.
The middle layer soil can fix plants and provide nutrients for plants to grow. You can buy the configured succulent planting soil directly in store, or buy soil materials to mix by yourself. The common soil formulation for this layer is peat moss : perlite : volcanic rock : vermiculite = 4:2:2:2.
The soil of the lower hydrophobic layer is placed at the bottom of the flowerpot or garden pit. It can evacuate the excess water in the succulent root system and prevent the root system from rotting due to water accumulation. The hydrophobic layer can be made of ceramsite, volcanic stone or other large-scale culture media. Coal slag or charcoal are also good choices. If it is planted in the garden, it is necessary to make sure that the bottom drainage layer is in good water permeability.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are many ways of propagation of succulent plants; seeds can be collected for sowing, but they are difficult to germinate. It is more common to use leaves for cutting propagation, generally in spring and autumn. Select a whole leave of a healthy plant, cut it off with a knife, and lay it flat on the slightly humid soil, with the leaf base close to the soil. Provide it with suitable temperature (25 ℃) and light (bright scattered light). In a week or two, a bud will grow at the leaf base.
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Propagation

Florist kalanchoe is a lovely juicy succulent. To propagate it, you can do so by the means of leaf cuttings. This propagation method is easy to handle. It is best to take a cutting on days when the plant is well-hydrated, so it is best to plan to propagate after a rainfall or just after you have watered your garden. The parent plant should also be healthy, undamaged, and free of pests, so do not propagate a plant that is already stressed. In most cases, it is best to take leaf cuttings in the spring to early summer, but most plant varieties (especially houseplants) can be propagated by this method any time of year. What you will need:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone
  4. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  5. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
Steps: Step 1: Use your knife to cut off one leaf and short piece of the attached petiole (leaf stalk). For plants without a petiole such as certain types of succulents, you can just break off the entire leaf by hand and roots will emerge from the base of the leaf.Pick healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, not the aging leaves at the bottom or the tender leaves at the top. Step 2: Dip the cut end of the petiole into rooting hormone and plant it in the prepared potting medium. The base of the leaf should just come in contact with the soil. You can crowd the leaves together, as this will not harm them. Step 3: After the cuttings are taken, you need to make sure that the soil is kept moist but not waterlogged. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone. You need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking the cuttings. Step 4: At least one (and possibly more) new plant will form at the base of the petiole in about 2 to 3 weeks. You should wait until the Florist kalanchoes have developed a fairly strong root system and started to produce leaves. Once that happens, divide plantlets into separate containers filled with all-purpose potting mix. The roots need to be buried in the soil when planting. Most varieties of plant that can be propagated this way are grown as container plants, but if you are planning to move them to your garden you can do so when the plant has outgrown its current container, or the following spring.
Cutting is also a relatively common way of propagating Florist kalanchoe. The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate Florist kalanchoe. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. The following are what you need to prepare before propagation can take place.
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. Special soil for succulents
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. Using your sterilized scissors, trim the leaves from the part of the stem that is inserted into the soil below, leaving only the stem, as the leaves rot easily when buried in the soil. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Leave them for 1-2 days, as you need to wait for the cut wounds to dry before taking cuttings. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly Step 5: Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the Florist kalanchoe dry out. Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the Florist kalanchoe. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the Florist kalanchoe to more sunlight so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of Florist kalanchoe. After this period, Florist kalanchoe can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When planting, you can first add the soil of the lower hydrophobic layer to the flowerpot, and then add a small amount of soil of the planting layer. Then spread out the root system of the plant and put them in. Cover the plant root with planting soil slowly, then add the top deco soil, and finally pour water once. If it is planted in the garden, you need to dig a pit 1.5-2 times the size of the root system first, and then follow the above steps.
In order to make it grow better and faster, or if the roots are too dense or unhealthy, it needs to be repotted. It is recommended to repot in spring and autumn. Before repotting, stop watering a few days in advance, after the soil is dried, you can gently knock the pot outside. Or you can use a knife to separate the soil from the pot. When pulling the plant up slightly, you can easily take out the plant, and then follow the steps described in the previous paragraph.
It should be noted that, though you can plant different colors of succulent plants together, it is better to avoid planting succulent plants with different growth habits together. Some succulent plant growing in summer needs water, while other succulent plant in dormancy period does not need water. If they are planted together, the succulent plant in dormancy period will become sick due to excessive watering, while the succulent in growing period will wither due to insufficient water.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Transplanting florist kalanchoe thrives during mid-spring to late spring, or mid-fall to late fall, as these seasons offer stable temperatures and ample moisture. Choose a well-drained location with bright, indirect sunlight. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps protect delicate root systems.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Flower Pots
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

In summer, there are several ways to ensure ventilation:
  1. use loose soil;
  2. use a ceramic pot with good air permeability;
  3. keep the potted plants in a multi-ventilated environment.
In summer, it is necessary to avoid too strong light: for potted plant, it can be moved to a proper place, and if planted outdoors, it can be provided with a shading net. In addition, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight after watering as this will burn the leaves.
In high temperature, varieties with thick leaves need to reduce water supply earlier, because they have high water content in their leaves and are easy to hydrate under high temperature. Of course, they can't get wet. Reducing water supply can make plants enter dormancy state smoothly and avoid being hurt by high temperature in summer.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of cool-weather succulents perform best with pruning in the early spring.

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Cut the stems back to a couple of inches above the soil but be careful not to remove any new growth.
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Spring is also the time to divide the plants if necessary.
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Water only when rainfall is less than a couple of inches every few weeks.
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The plant requires little extra nutrients, but a light application of a fertilizer comprised for succulents can help support healthy growth.
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Check for any roots growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, it’s time to move the plant to a larger container.

Cool weather-loving succulents like this plant require little care in the summer.

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When rainfall is under two inches every few weeks check the soil’s moisture level. If it is dry, water sparingly.
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Pinching off spent blooms can encourage flowering in the late summer and fall. Leave the seed heads on to add garden interest in the winter.
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Move container plants into the shade during summer dormancy.

In the fall, your plant should be waking up from its summer dormancy.

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You can clean up this plant, removing any dead or diseased branches during this time. Succulents don’t require extra pruning.
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Start fertilizing the plant with diluted, slow-release fertilizer to provide it with necessary nutrients; a type made for succulents should suffice.
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While the weather remains warm or cool, you can water the plant using the soak-and-dry method, making sure the soil is dry before watering the plant.
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Plenty of indirect light will help your plant grow and thrive. You may also propagate the plant during this time, planting new offshoots in fresh pots.

Most likely, your plant will continue growing during this time, even with the freezing winter temperatures.

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Make sure it has a lot of sunlight in this season to make sure it’s growing well.
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Keep watering, but reduce the amount given to the plant, especially in temperatures that are reaching freezing, or when the plant is covered in snow.
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3
You can choose to move potted varieties indoors to keep it away from the worst of the winter weather, or leave it outdoors, where it should survive and decorate your garden.
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These plants will need little to no pruning or fertilizing, even during the winter months.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Florist kalanchoe based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars  Scars  Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Flower withering
Flower withering  Flower withering  Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Low light
Low light  Low light  Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot  Leaf rot  Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Low light
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Species of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana genus are extremely toxic to dogs. If you suspect your dog has eaten any quantity of a florist kalanchoe plant, you should seek veterinary attention immediately. All parts of these plants contain toxins that may affect a dog's heart and nervous systems, although the flowers are usually the most toxic. Ingestion can cause diarrhea, vomiting, excessive salivation, a loss of appetite, a loss of coordination, and general weakness. More severe cases may see seizures, an abnormal heart rate, collapse, or death.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Florist Kalanchoe

Plant Type
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
10 to 50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Late fall, Winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Yellow
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
8 to 12 mm
Plant Height
Plant Height
10 to 50 cm

Name story

Florist kalanchoe
It is often called the florist kalanchoe because it is widely available in stores like grocery stores, supermarkets, flower shops, nurseries, etc.
Christmas kalanchoe
As Christmas approaches, it quietly blooms, and the beauty of its bright red flowers and dark green leaves draw everyone's attention. In the cold winter weather, it brings the warmth of Christmas festivities, so people like to purchase it to decorate their interiors for the Christmas season. Therefore, it is called the Christmas kalanchoe.

Usages

Environmental Protection Value
It can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen to purify air.
Garden Use
Florist kalanchoe is a perennial succulent commonly found in gardens in warm climates. It is prized for its long-flowering, bright and cheerful blooms, whilst being easy to maintain. Its spreading nature makes it suitable for ground cover. Florist kalanchoe fits in rockeries and Mediterranean gardens. Plant with for Crown of Thorns and Panda plant for color and textural contrast.
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Common Problems

Why do its leaves turn yellow and withered?

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It's a natural phenomenon that its old leaves turn yellow and wither. Don't be panic. If new buds turn yellow and withered, it is abnormal. It may be caused by lack of some mineral fertilizer or by sunburn.

Why do its leaves wrinkle?

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It's generally due to water shortage. When the succulent is lack of water, there will be wrinkles on leaves, or leaves will be shriveled, which reminds you to water them.

Why does it have a very high stem but few leaves?

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It is mostly due to the lack of sufficient light, which is the same principle as the growth of common mung bean sprout in Asian market. Lack of light can lead to spindling of plant internode and vulnerableness of plant tissue, which makes the plant prone to be injured. If you're in a similar situation, place the succulent in a well-lit area, and then the situation will slowly improve over time.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
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more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
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more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
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more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
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more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
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Succulent & cactus soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Partial sun, Full sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Water
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Outdoor potted
In the ground
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Essentials
Florist kalanchoe originates from arid environments, preferring infrequent watering. Only water when soil is completely dry. Overwatering can be harmful. Adjust watering based on seasonal changes.
Notes
During florist kalanchoe's flowering, it is important to keep the soil moderately moist.If the plant experiences excessive water stress, its flowers will quickly wither and wilt.Slight moisture will allow the flowers to bloom for a longer duration.
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth.
Requirements
Every 3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
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For Florist kalanchoe, outdoor watering can be done using the method of sprinkling. It is a simple and direct approach. It involves pouring water onto the soil around the plant, allowing the water to naturally seep into the root zone. Typically, containers such as watering cans, buckets, or watering jugs are used for sprinkling. Depending on the size of the plant, usually, 1-2 gallons of water are required to ensure the soil around the roots is thoroughly moistened.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Florist kalanchoe, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Florist kalanchoe, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Florist kalanchoe thrives under moderate sunlight exposure - not completely shaded, but not under intense full-day sun. Originating from environments with diffused light, it can also endure stages of less or more light. Excess exposure may burn the plant while too little could stunt growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Notes
Flowering requires sufficient (strong) light exposure and uninterrupted 14-hour periods of darkness.
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Florist kalanchoe thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. As a popular indoor plant, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, increasing the likelihood of light deficiency symptoms.
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Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your florist kalanchoe may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Impact on flowering and fruiting
Your plant may not show obvious abnormalities due to insufficient sunlight, but it can have adverse effects on future flowering and fruiting.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Florist kalanchoe prefers partial sun exposure but can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, during summer, they are more susceptible to sunburn due to their inability to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
For florist kalanchoe, its native growth environment requires temperatures of around 20 to 27 ℃ (68 to 81 ℉). However, it can tolerate temperatures ranging from 10 to 38 ℃ (50 to 100 ℉). For optimal growth, it prefers temperatures around 20 to 30 ℃ (68 to 86 ℉). During the winter, it can adjust to lower temperatures as long as it is kept away from drafts and cold winds.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Florist kalanchoe, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Florist kalanchoe is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
High Temperature
During summer, Florist kalanchoe should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Florist kalanchoe?
Transplanting florist kalanchoe thrives during mid-spring to late spring, or mid-fall to late fall, as these seasons offer stable temperatures and ample moisture. Choose a well-drained location with bright, indirect sunlight. Remember, a gentle touch during transplanting helps protect delicate root systems.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Florist kalanchoe?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Florist kalanchoe?
The perfect season to transplant your florist kalanchoe is from mid-spring to late spring or mid-fall to late fall. During these times, the mild temperatures and stable weather conditions promote root growth and help the plant adjust to its new environment rapidly, making it a flourishing and vibrant addition to your garden.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Florist kalanchoe Plants?
When transplanting florist kalanchoe, be sure to space the plants 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This will give them enough room to grow healthily!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Florist kalanchoe Transplanting?
Before transplanting florist kalanchoe, prepare the soil by using a well-draining mix that contains peat, perlite, and sand. Add a layer of slow-release granular fertilizer to provide essential nutrients.
Where Should You Relocate Your Florist kalanchoe?
Choose a location where florist kalanchoe will receive at least 4-6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. Avoid direct midday sun, as it could cause leaf burn.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Florist kalanchoe?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and florist kalanchoe plant.
Shovel or Spade
For digging the hole and removing the plant from its original location.
Hand Trowel
To fine-tune the planting hole and work with smaller roots.
Pruning Shears
To trim any damaged or dead roots before transplanting.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the florist kalanchoe during the transplanting process.
Mulch
To help retain moisture in the soil after transplanting.
Gardening Stakes
To provide initial support for the florist kalanchoe plant, if needed.
How Do You Remove Florist kalanchoe from the Soil?
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your florist kalanchoe plant to grow to its mature size.

Dig a hole about twice the width and equal in depth to the root ball of your florist kalanchoe plant. This allows room for the roots to spread and grow.

Trim any damaged or dead roots from the florist kalanchoe using pruning shears. Gently tease apart any tightly wound roots to encourage healthy growth.

Carefully place the florist kalanchoe plant in the hole, ensuring the plant is at the same depth as it was in its original location. Spread out the roots gently in the hole.

Fill the hole with the removed soil, making sure the roots are fully covered and no air pockets are left. Gently firm the soil around the base of the florist kalanchoe plant.

Thoroughly water the newly transplanted florist kalanchoe to settle the soil and provide moisture to the roots.

Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the florist kalanchoe to help retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds.

If the florist kalanchoe requires support, install garden stakes around the plant and gently tie the stems to the stakes with soft garden ties.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Florist kalanchoe
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your florist kalanchoe plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Digging the Hole
Dig a hole about twice the width and equal in depth to the root ball of your florist kalanchoe plant. This allows room for the roots to spread and grow.
Step3 Preparing the Plant
Trim any damaged or dead roots from the florist kalanchoe using pruning shears. Gently tease apart any tightly wound roots to encourage healthy growth.
Step4 Plant Placement
Carefully place the florist kalanchoe plant in the hole, ensuring the plant is at the same depth as it was in its original location. Spread out the roots gently in the hole.
Step5 Filling the Hole
Fill the hole with the removed soil, making sure the roots are fully covered and no air pockets are left. Gently firm the soil around the base of the florist kalanchoe plant.
Step6 Watering
Thoroughly water the newly transplanted florist kalanchoe to settle the soil and provide moisture to the roots.
Step7 Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the florist kalanchoe to help retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds.
Step8 Staking (if needed)
If the florist kalanchoe requires support, install garden stakes around the plant and gently tie the stems to the stakes with soft garden ties.
How Do You Care For Florist kalanchoe After Transplanting?
Watering
Maintain consistent soil moisture for the first few weeks after transplanting, ensuring the soil is not overly soggy or dry. This helps establish strong roots.
Pruning
Trim off any dead or damaged foliage to encourage new growth on your florist kalanchoe.
Feeding
Apply a slow-release fertilizer to your florist kalanchoe according to the package instructions a few weeks after transplanting to encourage healthy growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on your florist kalanchoe for any signs of stress, such as yellowing or wilting leaves. Address any issues promptly for a successful transplant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Florist kalanchoe Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant florist kalanchoe?
The ideal season to transplant florist kalanchoe is mid-to-late spring or mid-to-late fall, giving it optimal growing conditions.
What is the recommended spacing when transplanting florist kalanchoe?
To ensure proper growth, place florist kalanchoe with a spacing of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart when transplanting them.
What kind of soil should I choose for transplanting florist kalanchoe?
Choose a well-draining soil mix rich in organic matter. A blend of potting soil and perlite works well for florist kalanchoe.
How much sunlight do florist kalanchoe require after transplanting?
Florist kalanchoe prefers bright, indirect sunlight. Provide 6-8 hours of sunlight daily to promote healthy growth post-transplant.
How much should I water florist kalanchoe after transplanting?
Water florist kalanchoe thoroughly, allowing the soil to dry out between watering. Avoid over-watering to prevent root rot.
Should I fertilize florist kalanchoe post-transplant?
Feed florist kalanchoe with a balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted by half, every 3-4 weeks during the growing season.
What is the ideal temperature for florist kalanchoe after transplanting?
For healthy growth, maintain a temperature between 60-75°F (15-24°C) with a minimum of 50°F (10°C) at night.
How can I reduce transplant shock in florist kalanchoe?
Prevent transplant shock by gradually introducing florist kalanchoe to its new environment and ensuring minimal root disturbance.
How should I treat potential pests on florist kalanchoe?
Inspect florist kalanchoe for pests, such as mealybugs and mites. Treat any infestations using insecticidal soap or neem oil.
When should I expect my transplanted florist kalanchoe to bloom?
Florist kalanchoe generally blooms in winter, so expect flowers after a few months of healthy growth post-transplant.
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