You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Crepe myrtle prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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How to Care for Crepe Myrtle
Crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a highly ornamental small tropical tree or shrub, often multi-stemmed. It is native to India, Southeastern Asia, and Japan, and features a characteristic vase-shaped crown and beautifully-ruffled pink blooms that can last from early summer to autumn. It is also a popular nesting shrub for small birds.
Symbolism
Good luck, eloquence, obsessed love, femininity, household peace, marriage
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Basic Care Guide
Water
After planting, the crepe myrtle should be immediately watered thoroughly, and then watered thoroughly once every 3-5 day for 2-3 times. Within two months after planting, if there is no rainwater, they should be watered once a week. Covering 5 to 10 cm of chopped wood mulch half a foot around the trunk to help maintain the moisture of the roots and reduce weeds. When a plant begins to blossom, 5 to 8 cm of new mulch should be used in each spring. The crepe myrtle are very drought resistant. After root systems are formed, they only need to be watered once or twice a week during the dry and hot flowering period. In ordinary time, they can be watered once one or two months and it should be ensured that the soil is dry before watering each time, and watering in the evening or at night should be avoid to prevent fungal diseases.
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What's the best method to water my Crepe myrtle?
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What should I do if I water Crepe myrtle too much/too little?
An overwatered Crepe myrtle can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Crepe myrtle recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Crepe myrtle indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Crepe myrtle outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Crepe myrtle?
The Crepe myrtle likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Crepe myrtle generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Crepe myrtle?
The Crepe myrtle generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Crepe myrtle is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Crepe myrtle is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Crepe myrtle continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Crepe myrtle a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Crepe myrtle according to different seasons or climates?
The Crepe myrtle needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Crepe myrtle to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Crepe myrtle will need less water during the winter. Since the Crepe myrtle will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Crepe myrtle growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Crepe myrtle can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Crepe myrtle and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Crepe myrtle’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Crepe myrtle’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Crepe myrtle in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Crepe myrtle mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Crepe myrtle in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Crepe myrtle begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Crepe myrtle important?
Watering the Crepe myrtle helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Crepe myrtle thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
The slow-release organic fertilizers containing sulfur or iron are beneficial to the growth of crepe myrtle . As for newly planted crepe myrtle , one teaspoon of slow-release organic fertilizer should be applied once a month in the first year. In the two weeks before the frost, fertilization should be stopped to prevent frost from causing frost damage to the young branches after fertilization. After the root systems are formed, the crepe myrtle can be fertilized once a year in spring. 1/2 pound of fertilizer per 100 square ft should be applied based on the crown area. The fertilizer should be evenly spread on the ground, and then watered. It is not necessary to remove the mulch for fertilization. Excessive fertilization can result in overgrowth of leaves, less flowering and even diseases of crepe myrtle .
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Crepe myrtle?
You need to fertilize a Crepe myrtle for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Crepe myrtle produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Crepe myrtle has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Crepe myrtle plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Crepe myrtle some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Crepe myrtle hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Crepe myrtle?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Crepe myrtle. If you use fertilizer too early while the Crepe myrtle is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Crepe myrtle?
Avoid giving Crepe myrtle a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Crepe myrtle should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Crepe myrtle can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Crepe myrtle need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Crepe myrtle is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Crepe myrtle 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Crepe myrtle. However, some of the best fertilizers for Crepe myrtle come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Crepe myrtle.
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How do I fertilize my Crepe myrtle?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Crepe myrtle you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Crepe myrtle, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Crepe myrtle too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Crepe myrtle may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Crepe myrtle will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Crepe myrtle to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
The crepe myrtle like full sunlight and are slightly shade-tolerant. They require plenty of light to grow vigorously and bloom in large numbers. Please select a field with 6-8h of direct sunlight a day, such as an open space in a garden, and avoid the shade from tall fences, buildings and other trees. Excessive shading will not only lead to the crepe myrtle not exuberant and less flowers, but also cause some diseases and pests on the leaves and buds, such as powdery mildew and sooty blotch.
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How much/long should Crepe myrtle get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Crepe myrtle receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Crepe myrtle need?
Crepe myrtle does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Crepe myrtle? How to protect Crepe myrtle from the sun and heat damage?
Crepe myrtle planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Crepe myrtle during extreme weather events.
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Does Crepe myrtle need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Crepe myrtle from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Crepe myrtle, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Crepe myrtle to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Crepe myrtle gets inadequate sunlight?
When Crepe myrtle receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Crepe myrtle receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Crepe myrtle need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Crepe myrtle and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Crepe myrtle fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Crepe myrtle?
Recently transplanted Crepe myrtle will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Crepe myrtle drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Crepe myrtle that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Crepe myrtle blossoms in summer, therefore, it requires large-scale pruning during the dormancy period from winter to early spring. Pruning should be avoided in early autumn, as it will force the crepe myrtle to grow rather than dormancy. Severe freezing damage in winter can cause plant death in case of incomplete dormancy.
For a lagerstroemia plant with single trunk, one main trunk should be reserved, all lateral branches within 1.5 to 2 m from the ground should be trimmed off, and 3 branches on the trunk should be preserved as the main branches. For a lagerstroemia plant with multiple trunks, 3-5 robust branches should be reserved as the main trunks, the sprouts should be removed firstly, and the lateral branches of the lower half should be then removed for a tree form. Finally, the crowded or crossed branches in the crown and the branches that are too thin and too long should be trimmed to ensure good ventilation and light conditions in the center of the crown. The picture below shows a lagerstroemia plant with single trunk.
In addition to the pruning for shaping, attention should also be paid to removing the withered and dead branches in every winter. The withered branches are generally weak and yellow or extremely dark brown. If it is uncertain whether a branch is dead or not, a small amount of bark can be peeled off to see if the inside of the branch is green. During the growing season, the sprouts in the lower part of the stem should be removed from time to time before flowering. New shoots that germinate in spring should not be pruned or truncated. After flowering in summer, the withered flowers (inflorescences) should be cut off in time to reduce the loss of nutrients and promote the germination of new branches and re-flowering. Excessive topping should be avoided. Excessive pruning weakens the tree, causing the plant to grow a large number of tiny new branches. Although the plant is small and shrubby, but dense branches and poor ventilation are easy to cause powdery mildew. In addition, over-pruned lagerstroemia plants will grow branches and leaves with a lot of nutrient, thus reducing flowering and affecting the ornamental effect. The picture below shows a lagerstroemia that has been over-pruned.
Does my Crepe myrtle need to be pruned?
While one could technically let the Crepe myrtle go without pruning, the form and health of the tree may suffer, and will end up looking quite shaggy and unorganized. Crepe myrtle is grown for its attractive flowers. While not strictly necessary, many people prefer to prune this plant every year or two to encourage flowering and to maintain an attractive appearance and keep your Crepe myrtle in great shape. Pruning not only helps the tree relieve itself of burdens like dead wood and disease, but it also gives you the creative ability to style the tree in a way that works for you!
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When is the best time to prune my Crepe myrtle?
There are ultimately two times of the year that work best for pruning Crepe myrtle. Although it can be pruned at any time in cases of emergency, such as a broken branch, pruning should be left to the seasons where Crepe myrtle isn’t actively blooming or putting on new growth. This is a very typical pruning rule for most woody plants. Pruning can either take place just before the tree begins to put on new growth in very early Spring, or it can wait until just after all the blooms have fallen and your Crepe myrtle is starting to fall into dormancy. The best time to prune is just before new growth appears, but either time is great for removing extra growth. Use garden shears to cut off broken, dead, weak or diseased branches from Crepe myrtle. Observe the branch to see if it is dry and brittle. You can also tell if a dead branch is present by its color. If the branch is dark green, it is weak and dying; if the branch is brown, then the branch is already a dead branch. You can also choose to prune at both times in the same year if your Crepe myrtle needs a bit of an overhaul. To avoid taking off too much at one time, you can simply prune back before new growth, and then again once it’s had its time to bloom and pollinate. Of course, pruning does come with some mild risks, so it’s better to prune only once per year if you can. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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How can I prune my Crepe myrtle?
To prune the Crepe myrtle, first identify how the tree has grown thus far. It can either look bushy, like a shrub, or it can have one or more trunks that stem up from the ground with foliage in the top quadrant. If you have a bushy Crepe myrtle and you like it that way, then you can simply trim just as you would an average shrub, by removing new growths at equal heights just above a leaf node. For taller Crepe myrtle, there’s a little more to it. Identify the look you want first. If all you’re looking for is a quick prune and done, then all you really need to do is cut back any growth that is growing towards the inside of the canopy, as well as any “suckers”, or stems that grow below the canopy line. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which increases the space for other branches to grow. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which will increase the space for other branches to grow. If what you need is to take off some serious area, then more planning is in line. Crepe myrtle branch out in a fan fashion from the center trunk, and each branch will have its own branches that grow from them, as well. Try to take off branches that are pointing downward at their bases, but avoid cutting too much away from each secondary branch. From here, you can do some milder pruning around the areas where you removed branches in order to clean up the look and blend in the newly trimmed sections. Never trim off so much that no secondary branches are left from the main trunk; Crepe myrtle can tolerate this, but it takes years for them to recover fully. These prunings need to be done in late winter or early spring. Pruning Crepe myrtle encourages flowering and provides Crepe myrtle with more ornamental value. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Crepe myrtle?
You can take a few extra steps to make sure that your pruning is both successful and healthy. As with most woody, flowering trees, Crepe myrtle should be spoiled with a little extra water over the following week so that it has the means to heal its wounds. Crepe myrtle is a tough cookie, so it can take care of itself for the most part after the annual snipping. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Crepe myrtle a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. If you have other plants or trees nearby that are affected by diseases such as fungi or pests, you can also apply honey to the wounds just after pruning to create a sort of natural bandage.
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What techniques and tips should I use when pruning my Crepe myrtle?
Pruning the Crepe myrtle should be saved until the tree is mature, or has at least one thick stem or trunk that other, smaller branches grow from. That being said, you can train younger Crepe myrtle to grow in a style that you like by snipping off new growths at the base of the tree where it meets the ground. Here’s a general idea of how to get started pruning your Crepe myrtle. Tools For pruning, you’ll of course need some sort of clippers. Loppers are best for thicker branches, while hand pruners will usually get the job done on smaller branches that are less than the thickness of your average pencil. You’ll also need a good pair of gloves, as well as some sort of protective eyewear. Pruning can sometimes get a little pokey, so you want to make sure that none of the stray branches or debris end up in your eyes.
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What are the common issues that I should be aware of when pruning my Crepe myrtle?
One of the most common issues with Crepe myrtle is overgrowth. Once they get unruly, it can be tricky to get them to look their best again. In some situations, it may be best to cut away everything except for secondary branches- those that grow from the main stem or trunk- and henceforth only trim back new branches liberally until your Crepe myrtle regains its shape.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Crepe myrtle, native to Asia, is widely distributed in the temperate to subtropical zones. It grows well in the warm and humid climates. If planted in the cold region, it's prone to freeze to death in cold climates.
What is the optimal temperature for Crepe myrtle?
The best temperature for Crepe myrtle to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect：65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest：85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest：-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Crepe myrtle during different growing phases?
Research shows that Crepe myrtle will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Crepe myrtle warm in cold seasons?
Crepe myrtle can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Crepe myrtle suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Crepe myrtle if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Crepe myrtle gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Crepe myrtle gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Crepe myrtle?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Crepe myrtle healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Crepe myrtle warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Crepe myrtle, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Crepe myrtle with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Crepe myrtle in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Crepe myrtle is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Crepe myrtle from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Crepe myrtle extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Crepe myrtle in different seasons?
Crepe myrtle is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Crepe myrtle?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Crepe myrtle in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
The crepe myrtle can tolerate different soil types and grow well in both calcareous and acid soil. The pH of most suitable soil for growth is 5.5-6.5. They like moist, fertile and well-drained sandy loam or loam. If the soil in the planting site is poor, it can be improved with compost or ordinary commercial fertilizers. If the soil is more viscous or sandy in texture, it can be adjusted with peat and rotten manure. Alkaline soil will cause leaves to turn yellow, organic fertilizers or garden compost can reduce the soil's pH value, and a small amount of agricultural lime can increase the pH.
Propagation
Planting
The crepe myrtle of good varieties usually reproduce by cutting. Early summer is the best period for cutting; the branches that grow out in this year should be selected and each cutting shoot should contain 2-3 buds. Cut out a horizontal cut at 8 mm - 1 cm above the first bud in the upper part of the cutting shoot; cut out a slanted cut at 5 mm - 8 mm to the last bud at the end of the cutting shoot; reserve the upper one pair of leaves, and subtract half of the remaining leaves to reduce transpiration and prevent the cutting shoot from losing water.
The cutting medium can be mixed peat and perlite (volume ratio: 2:1), and the river sand can be used alone. Soak the medium in 0.3% potassium permanganate solution for 0.5h-1.0h, rinse it with clean water, and air-dry it outside for one day for standby. The base of the cutting shoot should be soaked in 500mg/L indolebutyric acid (IBA) or naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) solution for 10s, and the insertion depth should be half the length of the cutting shoot. Place the cutting shoots in a well-drained rooting medium in a cool area, seal them in a transparent plastic bag, and spray regularly to keep them moist. Cutting shoots take root after one week and the number of sprays should be reduced after rooting to prevent the roots from rotting. When the cutting shoots grow elastic root masses, they can be planted in the field or in a nutrient bowl.
Propagation
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Planting in autumn or early spring is recommended, because a good root system can develop before the vigorous growing period if it’s planted before the germination of the plant. For seedling transplanting, the seedlings, 1-year to 3-year old, can be transplanted with naked roots. The seedlings, more than 3-year old, need to be planted with soil balls to keep the root system intact. The plant row spacing should be determined according to the variety, and sufficient space should be reserved to ensure good ventilation and reduce diseases. this information can usually be found on the label of the plant, for example, if this variety is 91 cm in width at maturity, and then separate the plants by about 91 cm. Fully loosen soil before planting, dig a pit with a diameter of 2-3 times of the plant, with a depth of approximately same as that of the nursery pot, backfill the soil, and the top of the root mass should be level with the ground or slightly above the ground to ensure sufficient oxygen for the root system.
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
Crepe myrtle thrives when transplanted during the warm and sunny days of late spring to mid-summer. Choose a well-drained location with ample sunlight for healthy growth. Gently tease out the roots during transplant for better establishment.
Should be repotted every 2-3 years in a large pot (2-3 times the size of the rootball), with good drainage holes.
More About How-Tos
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
For Crepe myrtle, originating from warm climates, it prefers well-draining soil and moderate watering, particularly during its growing season. Be cautious not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry.
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Lighting
Full sun
Crepe myrtle thrives in areas drenched in sunlight for most of the day and can survive in places where sunlight is scattered or filtered through taller structures. Originating from a habitat bathed in ample daylight, it adapts adequately to less sunny situations. However, reduced light contribution might affect its ability to flourish, whilst excessive sunlight might cause light stress and impede growth.
Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Crepe myrtle requires a temperature between 50 to 95 ℉ (10 to 35 ℃), which is suitable in its native growth environment. During summer, it prefers cooler temperatures and tolerates high heat and drought. In winter, it goes dormant and can withstand freezing temperatures. It can be adjusted in temperature through proper watering and shading.
Transplant
4-6 feet
Crepe myrtle thrives when transplanted during the warm and sunny days of late spring to mid-summer. Choose a well-drained location with ample sunlight for healthy growth. Gently tease out the roots during transplant for better establishment.
Seasonal Care Tips
Seasonal Precautions
Better flowering performance can be achieved by fertilizing once a year in spring and watering 1-2 times a week during hot and dry summer. Before frost, pruning, fertilization and excessive watering should be stopped to ensure that the plants enter the dormancy period smoothly. After the leaves fall in autumn, pine needles, wheat straws, and fallen leaves should be covered around the roots. Winter is the best time to trim.
Some cold protection measures in winter can be carried out in relatively cold areas: For the low lagerstroemia plants, they can be pressed to the southeast direction or covered with soil with the covering thickness of 10 cm - 15 cm, and covered with mulch or straw shade. Remove the mulch at the beginning of the next spring and water the plants in time. For tall lagerstroemia plants, cover 30 cm - 50 cm thick soil around the root collar in early winter, warp the trunk with non-woven fabric or straw rope, remove the covering soil in early spring next year, and then remove the wrapping in mid-spring. For aboveground plants that are frozen to death in winter, the plants can be pruned to 20 cm above the ground in early spring. Then, wait for them to grow new branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.
1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.
1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.
1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.
1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Crepe myrtle based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
- If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
- Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
- Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
- In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
- If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
- Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
- Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
- When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
- Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
- Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
- Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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More About Crepe Myrtle
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
1.8 to 8 m
Bloom Time
Mid summer, Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Orange
Bronze
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
6 to 7 m
Name story
Indian crape myrtle||Crape myrtle
The crepe myrtle has existed in plant history for more than a thousand years. Before it blossoms, people often think that its bright green leaves resemble another plant called Myrtle, surprised to see beautiful lush flowers later appearing. What makes it special is that, in full bloom, its flower petals are slightly wrinkly and exhibit a rich texture, like a crape. Since the beauty of the plant was discovered by Westerners in India, the plant was then referred to as the Indian crepe myrtle, or crepe myrtle for short.
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
Feeds a number of different bird species in the summer and winter, while also providing shelter and nesting areas.
Garden Use
Crepe myrtle is a deciduous shrub and tree that is commonly found in gardens within warmer climates. It is prized for its attractive winter bark, colorful fall foliage, and showy summer blooms. Its dense root system makes it suitable for erosion control. It is also used for boundaries. Crepe myrtle is good for Pollinator gardens. Plant with Peruvian Lily for color contrast.
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Common Problems
Why cannot my crepe myrtle blossom?
The newly planted crepe myrtle may not blossom until the second year, so if your crepe myrtle is just planted this year, please wait patiently. The older crepe myrtle with overcrowded branches will be lack of sunlight which will also lead to less flowering. Please trim the plants properly in winter to ensure good ventilation and light conditions. Excessive pruning of crepe myrtle also causes the plants to use nutrients to grow branches and leaves, thus reducing the amount of flowers. It may be due to insufficient soil fertility if the plant has been properly pruned and well-lit but still does not blossom.
Why does not my lagerstroemia plant grow leaves?
Lagerstroemia plants are late-growing plants in spring, so it is very likely that the time has not come. If there are no leaves in the middle of spring, please check the branches for tiny leaf buds. Leaves will grow out if there are full and healthy leaf buds on the branches. In addition, please confirm whether the variety you selected is suitable for the climate. If it is too cold in winter, the leaf buds will be damaged, and they cannot grow into leaves. If the leaf buds have been frozen to death, please check whether the branches are healthy, observe whether the bark is green, if the branches have died, please remove them in time. Drought and soil hardening will also lead to no leaves. Please water them in the dry season in a timely manner and ensure loose soil and good drainage. In addition, timely removal of sprouts and weeds can also ensure sufficient nutrients for the lagerstroemia plants.
Are the roots of crepe myrtle invasive?
The roots of crepe myrtle may be scattered and long, but they are relatively weak and non-aggressive and do not produce many lateral roots, so they do not damage sidewalks, driveways or foundations. Crepe myrtle with shallow roots compete with weeds for moisture.
Are crepe myrtle poisonous?
According to data from the University of California, Davis, crepe myrtle are safe plants. ASPCA also lists them as plants non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant ![trouble-image]()
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1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. Branches ![trouble-image]()
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1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. Stems ![trouble-image]()
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers ![trouble-image]()
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1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. ![trouble-image]()
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4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. Leaves ![trouble-image]()
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1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. ![trouble-image]()
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5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
show more ![show-more]()
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Crepe Myrtle
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
Download Crepe Myrtle
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
How to Care for Crepe Myrtle
Crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a highly ornamental small tropical tree or shrub, often multi-stemmed. It is native to India, Southeastern Asia, and Japan, and features a characteristic vase-shaped crown and beautifully-ruffled pink blooms that can last from early summer to autumn. It is also a popular nesting shrub for small birds.
Symbolism
Good luck, eloquence, obsessed love, femininity, household peace, marriage
Every 1-2 weeks
Water ![]()
Full sun
Sunlight ![]()
Basic Care Guide
Water
After planting, the crepe myrtle should be immediately watered thoroughly, and then watered thoroughly once every 3-5 day for 2-3 times. Within two months after planting, if there is no rainwater, they should be watered once a week. Covering 5 to 10 cm of chopped wood mulch half a foot around the trunk to help maintain the moisture of the roots and reduce weeds. When a plant begins to blossom, 5 to 8 cm of new mulch should be used in each spring. The crepe myrtle are very drought resistant. After root systems are formed, they only need to be watered once or twice a week during the dry and hot flowering period. In ordinary time, they can be watered once one or two months and it should be ensured that the soil is dry before watering each time, and watering in the evening or at night should be avoid to prevent fungal diseases.
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What's the best method to water my Crepe myrtle?
What should I do if I water Crepe myrtle too much/too little?
How often should I water my Crepe myrtle?
How much water do I need to give my Crepe myrtle?
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Fertilizer
The slow-release organic fertilizers containing sulfur or iron are beneficial to the growth of crepe myrtle . As for newly planted crepe myrtle , one teaspoon of slow-release organic fertilizer should be applied once a month in the first year. In the two weeks before the frost, fertilization should be stopped to prevent frost from causing frost damage to the young branches after fertilization. After the root systems are formed, the crepe myrtle can be fertilized once a year in spring. 1/2 pound of fertilizer per 100 square ft should be applied based on the crown area. The fertilizer should be evenly spread on the ground, and then watered. It is not necessary to remove the mulch for fertilization. Excessive fertilization can result in overgrowth of leaves, less flowering and even diseases of crepe myrtle .
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Crepe myrtle?
When is the best time to fertilize my Crepe myrtle?
When should I avoid fertilizing my Crepe myrtle?
What type of fertilizer does my Crepe myrtle need?
Show More ![more]()
Sunlight
The crepe myrtle like full sunlight and are slightly shade-tolerant. They require plenty of light to grow vigorously and bloom in large numbers. Please select a field with 6-8h of direct sunlight a day, such as an open space in a garden, and avoid the shade from tall fences, buildings and other trees. Excessive shading will not only lead to the crepe myrtle not exuberant and less flowers, but also cause some diseases and pests on the leaves and buds, such as powdery mildew and sooty blotch.
Know the light your plants really get.
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How much/long should Crepe myrtle get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
What type of sunlight does Crepe myrtle need?
Can sunlight damage Crepe myrtle? How to protect Crepe myrtle from the sun and heat damage?
Does Crepe myrtle need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Crepe myrtle from the sun?
Show More ![more]()
Pruning
Crepe myrtle blossoms in summer, therefore, it requires large-scale pruning during the dormancy period from winter to early spring. Pruning should be avoided in early autumn, as it will force the crepe myrtle to grow rather than dormancy. Severe freezing damage in winter can cause plant death in case of incomplete dormancy.
For a lagerstroemia plant with single trunk, one main trunk should be reserved, all lateral branches within 1.5 to 2 m from the ground should be trimmed off, and 3 branches on the trunk should be preserved as the main branches. For a lagerstroemia plant with multiple trunks, 3-5 robust branches should be reserved as the main trunks, the sprouts should be removed firstly, and the lateral branches of the lower half should be then removed for a tree form. Finally, the crowded or crossed branches in the crown and the branches that are too thin and too long should be trimmed to ensure good ventilation and light conditions in the center of the crown. The picture below shows a lagerstroemia plant with single trunk.
In addition to the pruning for shaping, attention should also be paid to removing the withered and dead branches in every winter. The withered branches are generally weak and yellow or extremely dark brown. If it is uncertain whether a branch is dead or not, a small amount of bark can be peeled off to see if the inside of the branch is green. During the growing season, the sprouts in the lower part of the stem should be removed from time to time before flowering. New shoots that germinate in spring should not be pruned or truncated. After flowering in summer, the withered flowers (inflorescences) should be cut off in time to reduce the loss of nutrients and promote the germination of new branches and re-flowering. Excessive topping should be avoided. Excessive pruning weakens the tree, causing the plant to grow a large number of tiny new branches. Although the plant is small and shrubby, but dense branches and poor ventilation are easy to cause powdery mildew. In addition, over-pruned lagerstroemia plants will grow branches and leaves with a lot of nutrient, thus reducing flowering and affecting the ornamental effect. The picture below shows a lagerstroemia that has been over-pruned.
Does my Crepe myrtle need to be pruned?
When is the best time to prune my Crepe myrtle?
How can I prune my Crepe myrtle?
What should I do after pruning my Crepe myrtle?
Show More ![more]()
Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Crepe myrtle, native to Asia, is widely distributed in the temperate to subtropical zones. It grows well in the warm and humid climates. If planted in the cold region, it's prone to freeze to death in cold climates.
What is the optimal temperature for Crepe myrtle?
Should I adjust the temperature for Crepe myrtle during different growing phases?
How can I keep Crepe myrtle warm in cold seasons?
What damage will Crepe myrtle suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Show More ![more]()
Soil
The crepe myrtle can tolerate different soil types and grow well in both calcareous and acid soil. The pH of most suitable soil for growth is 5.5-6.5. They like moist, fertile and well-drained sandy loam or loam. If the soil in the planting site is poor, it can be improved with compost or ordinary commercial fertilizers. If the soil is more viscous or sandy in texture, it can be adjusted with peat and rotten manure. Alkaline soil will cause leaves to turn yellow, organic fertilizers or garden compost can reduce the soil's pH value, and a small amount of agricultural lime can increase the pH.
Propagation
Planting
The crepe myrtle of good varieties usually reproduce by cutting. Early summer is the best period for cutting; the branches that grow out in this year should be selected and each cutting shoot should contain 2-3 buds. Cut out a horizontal cut at 8 mm - 1 cm above the first bud in the upper part of the cutting shoot; cut out a slanted cut at 5 mm - 8 mm to the last bud at the end of the cutting shoot; reserve the upper one pair of leaves, and subtract half of the remaining leaves to reduce transpiration and prevent the cutting shoot from losing water.
The cutting medium can be mixed peat and perlite (volume ratio: 2:1), and the river sand can be used alone. Soak the medium in 0.3% potassium permanganate solution for 0.5h-1.0h, rinse it with clean water, and air-dry it outside for one day for standby. The base of the cutting shoot should be soaked in 500mg/L indolebutyric acid (IBA) or naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) solution for 10s, and the insertion depth should be half the length of the cutting shoot. Place the cutting shoots in a well-drained rooting medium in a cool area, seal them in a transparent plastic bag, and spray regularly to keep them moist. Cutting shoots take root after one week and the number of sprays should be reduced after rooting to prevent the roots from rotting. When the cutting shoots grow elastic root masses, they can be planted in the field or in a nutrient bowl.
Propagation
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Planting in autumn or early spring is recommended, because a good root system can develop before the vigorous growing period if it’s planted before the germination of the plant. For seedling transplanting, the seedlings, 1-year to 3-year old, can be transplanted with naked roots. The seedlings, more than 3-year old, need to be planted with soil balls to keep the root system intact. The plant row spacing should be determined according to the variety, and sufficient space should be reserved to ensure good ventilation and reduce diseases. this information can usually be found on the label of the plant, for example, if this variety is 91 cm in width at maturity, and then separate the plants by about 91 cm. Fully loosen soil before planting, dig a pit with a diameter of 2-3 times of the plant, with a depth of approximately same as that of the nursery pot, backfill the soil, and the top of the root mass should be level with the ground or slightly above the ground to ensure sufficient oxygen for the root system.
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
Crepe myrtle thrives when transplanted during the warm and sunny days of late spring to mid-summer. Choose a well-drained location with ample sunlight for healthy growth. Gently tease out the roots during transplant for better establishment.
Should be repotted every 2-3 years in a large pot (2-3 times the size of the rootball), with good drainage holes.
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Care Tips
Seasonal Precautions
Better flowering performance can be achieved by fertilizing once a year in spring and watering 1-2 times a week during hot and dry summer. Before frost, pruning, fertilization and excessive watering should be stopped to ensure that the plants enter the dormancy period smoothly. After the leaves fall in autumn, pine needles, wheat straws, and fallen leaves should be covered around the roots. Winter is the best time to trim.
Some cold protection measures in winter can be carried out in relatively cold areas: For the low lagerstroemia plants, they can be pressed to the southeast direction or covered with soil with the covering thickness of 10 cm - 15 cm, and covered with mulch or straw shade. Remove the mulch at the beginning of the next spring and water the plants in time. For tall lagerstroemia plants, cover 30 cm - 50 cm thick soil around the root collar in early winter, warp the trunk with non-woven fabric or straw rope, remove the covering soil in early spring next year, and then remove the wrapping in mid-spring. For aboveground plants that are frozen to death in winter, the plants can be pruned to 20 cm above the ground in early spring. Then, wait for them to grow new branches.
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.
1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.
1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.
1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.
1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Crepe myrtle based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
- If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
- Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
- Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
- In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
- If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
- Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
- Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
- When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
- Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
- Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
- Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.
Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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More About Crepe Myrtle
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
1.8 to 8 m
Bloom Time
Mid summer, Late summer, Early fall, Mid fall
Flower Color
White
Pink
Red
Purple
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Orange
Bronze
Flower Size
3 to 4 cm
Plant Height
6 to 7 m
Name story
Indian crape myrtle||Crape myrtle
The crepe myrtle has existed in plant history for more than a thousand years. Before it blossoms, people often think that its bright green leaves resemble another plant called Myrtle, surprised to see beautiful lush flowers later appearing. What makes it special is that, in full bloom, its flower petals are slightly wrinkly and exhibit a rich texture, like a crape. Since the beauty of the plant was discovered by Westerners in India, the plant was then referred to as the Indian crepe myrtle, or crepe myrtle for short.
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
Feeds a number of different bird species in the summer and winter, while also providing shelter and nesting areas.
Garden Use
Crepe myrtle is a deciduous shrub and tree that is commonly found in gardens within warmer climates. It is prized for its attractive winter bark, colorful fall foliage, and showy summer blooms. Its dense root system makes it suitable for erosion control. It is also used for boundaries. Crepe myrtle is good for Pollinator gardens. Plant with Peruvian Lily for color contrast.
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Common Problems
Why cannot my crepe myrtle blossom?
The newly planted crepe myrtle may not blossom until the second year, so if your crepe myrtle is just planted this year, please wait patiently. The older crepe myrtle with overcrowded branches will be lack of sunlight which will also lead to less flowering. Please trim the plants properly in winter to ensure good ventilation and light conditions. Excessive pruning of crepe myrtle also causes the plants to use nutrients to grow branches and leaves, thus reducing the amount of flowers. It may be due to insufficient soil fertility if the plant has been properly pruned and well-lit but still does not blossom.
Why does not my lagerstroemia plant grow leaves?
Lagerstroemia plants are late-growing plants in spring, so it is very likely that the time has not come. If there are no leaves in the middle of spring, please check the branches for tiny leaf buds. Leaves will grow out if there are full and healthy leaf buds on the branches. In addition, please confirm whether the variety you selected is suitable for the climate. If it is too cold in winter, the leaf buds will be damaged, and they cannot grow into leaves. If the leaf buds have been frozen to death, please check whether the branches are healthy, observe whether the bark is green, if the branches have died, please remove them in time. Drought and soil hardening will also lead to no leaves. Please water them in the dry season in a timely manner and ensure loose soil and good drainage. In addition, timely removal of sprouts and weeds can also ensure sufficient nutrients for the lagerstroemia plants.
Are the roots of crepe myrtle invasive?
The roots of crepe myrtle may be scattered and long, but they are relatively weak and non-aggressive and do not produce many lateral roots, so they do not damage sidewalks, driveways or foundations. Crepe myrtle with shallow roots compete with weeds for moisture.
Are crepe myrtle poisonous?
According to data from the University of California, Davis, crepe myrtle are safe plants. ASPCA also lists them as plants non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses.
Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. 
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. 
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion. 
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing. 
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals. 
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger. 
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Water
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Essentials
For Crepe myrtle, originating from warm climates, it prefers well-draining soil and moderate watering, particularly during its growing season. Be cautious not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry.
Watering check today
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth. Requirements
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue. 
For Crepe myrtle, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Crepe myrtle is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Crepe myrtle is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Crepe myrtle thrives in areas drenched in sunlight for most of the day and can survive in places where sunlight is scattered or filtered through taller structures. Originating from a habitat bathed in ample daylight, it adapts adequately to less sunny situations. However, reduced light contribution might affect its ability to flourish, whilst excessive sunlight might cause light stress and impede growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Crepe myrtle thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your crepe myrtle may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Crepe myrtle enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Crepe myrtle thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Crepe myrtle requires a temperature between 50 to 95 ℉ (10 to 35 ℃), which is suitable in its native growth environment. During summer, it prefers cooler temperatures and tolerates high heat and drought. In winter, it goes dormant and can withstand freezing temperatures. It can be adjusted in temperature through proper watering and shading.
Regional wintering strategies
Crepe myrtle has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Crepe myrtle is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Crepe myrtle should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Crepe myrtle?
Crepe myrtle thrives when transplanted during the warm and sunny days of late spring to mid-summer. Choose a well-drained location with ample sunlight for healthy growth. Gently tease out the roots during transplant for better establishment.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Crepe myrtle?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Crepe myrtle?
The perfect season to transplant crepe myrtle lies between late spring and mid-summer. At this time, they can establish roots and adapt to their new environment, leading to healthy, beautiful growth.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Crepe myrtle Plants?
For crepe myrtle, it's important to give them enough space to grow and spread out. Aim for a spacing of about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) apart when transplanting.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Crepe myrtle Transplanting?
To ensure a healthy crepe myrtle, use well-draining soil and mix in some compost or slow-release granular fertilizer for a nutritious base. This will help your plant thrive!
Where Should You Relocate Your Crepe myrtle?
Choose a location with full sun or light shade for your crepe myrtle, as they love sunlight! Just make sure they get at least 6 hours of sunlight daily for the best growth.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Crepe myrtle?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
For digging the hole and removing the plant from its original location.
Pruning Shears
To trim back any damaged or unwanted branches before transplanting.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
For watering the plant before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart
To transport the plant from one location to another, if necessary.
Tarp or large blanket
To protect the root ball during transport and prevent root damage.
How Do You Remove Crepe myrtle from the Soil?
Clear away any debris, weeds, or grass in the chosen planting location. Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the crepe myrtle's root ball. Loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole to promote root growth.
Water the crepe myrtle plant's root ball thoroughly before transplanting to help it transition more smoothly.
Gently place the crepe myrtle plant into the hole, ensuring it sits at the same depth as it was in its original location. Spread out the roots in the hole, if needed.
Fill the hole halfway with original soil, then water the area to eliminate air pockets. Once the water has absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water the crepe myrtle plant thoroughly after transplanting, ensuring the soil is moist but not soaking wet.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Crepe myrtle
Step1 Site Preparation
Clear away any debris, weeds, or grass in the chosen planting location. Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the crepe myrtle's root ball. Loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole to promote root growth.
Step2 Watering the Root Ball
Water the crepe myrtle plant's root ball thoroughly before transplanting to help it transition more smoothly.
Step3 Placing the Plant
Gently place the crepe myrtle plant into the hole, ensuring it sits at the same depth as it was in its original location. Spread out the roots in the hole, if needed.
Step4 Backfilling
Fill the hole halfway with original soil, then water the area to eliminate air pockets. Once the water has absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Step5 Watering
Water the crepe myrtle plant thoroughly after transplanting, ensuring the soil is moist but not soaking wet.
How Do You Care For Crepe myrtle After Transplanting?
Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the crepe myrtle plant's base to help retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Watering
Keep the soil around the crepe myrtle consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots. Gradually reduce water frequency as the plant becomes established.
Pruning
Remove any dead or damaged branches from the crepe myrtle plant using pruning shears as necessary to help stimulate healthy new growth.
Monitoring
Regularly check for signs of stress or pests on the crepe myrtle plant. Address any issues promptly to ensure a healthy, thriving plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Crepe myrtle Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant crepe myrtle?
The ideal season for transplanting crepe myrtle is late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing.
What is the proper spacing for transplanting crepe myrtle?
Ensure a distance of 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) between each crepe myrtle to encourage healthy growth and well-developed canopies.
How much sunlight does crepe myrtle need during transplant?
Crepe myrtle thrives in full sunlight, so choose a transplant location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun daily.
What is the recommended soil type for transplanting crepe myrtle?
Transplant crepe myrtle into well-drained soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.5, ensuring optimal growth and steady water absorption.
How deep should the planting hole be for crepe myrtle?
Dig the planting hole 1.5 times the root ball's width and just as deep, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the ground.
How much water does crepe myrtle need during transplanting?
Water the crepe myrtle generously immediately after transplanting, and then maintain a watering schedule of 1 inch (2.5 cm) per week.
Should I apply fertilizer during the transplant process?
Fertilize crepe myrtle with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer after the transplant, promoting strong root establishment and healthy growth.
How can I ensure successful transplanting of crepe myrtle?
Prepare the site, use proper spacing, and follow recommended watering and fertilizing guidelines to achieve successful transplanting of crepe myrtle.
Can I prune crepe myrtle during the transplant process?
Yes, moderately prune crepe myrtle during transplanting to remove dead or damaged branches and encourage healthier growth.
How do I care for crepe myrtle after transplanting?
Maintain a consistent watering schedule, fertilize as needed, and regularly monitor for pests or diseases to ensure crepe myrtle's health and vigor.
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