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FAQ

How to Care for Lavandin

Lavandin (Lavandula intermedia) is a hybrid variety of lavender that's popular for gardens and commercial production. Its fragrant, showy blossoms attract bees, butterflies and other pollinators. It blooms profusely in summer and its dried flowers retain their vibrant color and soothing lavender fragrance. Perfect for dried flower arrangements, potpourri and sachets. Thrives in full sun with moist, well-drained soil.
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Lavandin
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Lavandin
Lavandin
Lavandin
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Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Lavandin?

Lavandin should be watered two times a week while it is establishing. After that, reduce the watering to once in every 2-3 weeks. When the plants start to bloom, water two times a week to stimulate blooming. Remember that excellent drainage is very important for these plants, and damp soil can provide favorable conditions for various diseases.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Lavandin?
Your Lavandin will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Lavandin. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Lavandin. However, the Lavandin usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Lavandin too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Lavandin can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Lavandin is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Lavandin, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Lavandin from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Lavandin in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Lavandin, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Lavandin?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Lavandin is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Lavandin. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Lavandin .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Lavandin need?
When it comes time to water your Lavandin, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Lavandin by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Lavandin gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Lavandin is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Lavandin is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Lavandin a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Lavandin enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Lavandin, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Lavandin will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Lavandin will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Lavandin.
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How can I water my Lavandin at different growth stages?
When the Lavandin is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Lavandin that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Lavandin can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Lavandin is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Lavandin through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Lavandin. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Lavandin will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Lavandin indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Lavandin may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Lavandin?

Generally, lavandin does not require any fertilizers and can thrive even in very poor soils. Excess of nutrients can actually be harmful to this plant. For example, adding fertilizers rich in nitrogen, or growing lavandin in nitrogen-rich soil will stimulate the growth of leaves and impede blooming, so you'll have a bushy plant with no flowers.
However, some gardeners like to add a bit of fertilizer once in every few years to encourage the plant to produce many blooms. This is usually achieved by adding a layer of compost 2.5 cm thick around the plant during early spring.

Fertilizer

Its profusion of large, showy flowerheads makes Lavandin a favorite with gardeners. Whether it’s growing in a container or as a flowering garden shrub/tree, it’s impossible to miss Lavandin when it’s blooming in the summer. However, it also requires the right fertilizer at the correct time to support the large blooms and encourage healthy growth.
You need to fertilize a Lavandin for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Lavandin produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Lavandin has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Lavandin plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Lavandin some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Lavandin hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Lavandin. If you use fertilizer too early while the Lavandin is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
The ideal fertilizer for a Lavandin is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Lavandin 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Lavandin. However, some of the best fertilizers for Lavandin come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Lavandin.
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Lavandin you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Lavandin, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Lavandin may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Lavandin will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth. If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Lavandin to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
Avoid giving Lavandin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Lavandin should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Lavandin can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Lavandin?
You need to fertilize a Lavandin for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Lavandin produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Lavandin has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Lavandin plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Lavandin some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Lavandin hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Lavandin?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Lavandin. If you use fertilizer too early while the Lavandin is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Lavandin?
Avoid giving Lavandin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Lavandin should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Lavandin can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Lavandin need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Lavandin is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Lavandin 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Lavandin. However, some of the best fertilizers for Lavandin come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Lavandin.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Lavandin?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Lavandin you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Lavandin, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Lavandin too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Lavandin may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Lavandin will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Lavandin to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Lavandin?

Lavandin thrives in direct sun. This plant is native to the Mediterranean and parts of Asia and Africa, so it is adapted to grow under full sun. So, if you plan to grow lavandin in your garden, it is best to plant it in a sunny spot.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Lavandin get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Lavandin receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Lavandin need?
Lavandin does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Lavandin? How to protect Lavandin from the sun and heat damage?
Lavandin planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Lavandin during extreme weather events.
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Does Lavandin need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Lavandin from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Lavandin, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Lavandin to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Lavandin gets inadequate sunlight?
When Lavandin receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Lavandin receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Lavandin need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Lavandin and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Lavandin fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Lavandin?
Recently transplanted Lavandin will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Lavandin drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Lavandin that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Lavandin?

Once established, lavandin requires minimal maintenance and pruning. As the plant gets older, the base of the stems will grow woody, so prune it back by about half of its size when the spring comes. This will promote new growth and fuller blooms. Also, lavandin that is not pruned from time to time tends to sprawl and create a hole in the middle of the bush. Lastly, remove the spent flowers to encourage new blooms. Use sharp tools and always disinfect them before use to avoid contamination.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Lavandin?
Before your Lavandin hedge begins taking over the sidewalk, or your hanging basket Lavandins start to look scraggly, it is a good idea to think about pruning. Without proper maintenance, Lavandin may grow rapidly and uncontrollably, crowding out other plants. If you decide to include Lavandin in your garden or landscaping plan, you should monitor its growth carefully and have a plan for pruning. Pruning is as important for the Lavandin as it is for any other ornamental plant species that you may choose to grow in your garden. If you prune this plant properly, you can enhance its overall health while preserving its most showy ornamental features. With that said, you cannot expect to reap those benefits if you don’t know when and how to prune this species. In fact, improper pruning can cause you to remove the season’s blooms, detracting significantly from the Lavandin’s beauty. Even if you live in a cooler area or only plan to grow Lavandin in pots or hanging baskets, regular pruning can encourage blooming and keep your plants healthy and vigorous.
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When is the best time to prune my Lavandin?
As Lavandin blooms earlier than normal plants, pruning should also be earlier. What you should do instead is wait until the late spring or early summer to prune if you want to prune your Lavandin on a large scale. The ideal time for pruning takes place at the end or just after this plant’s bloom period. Also, you should avoid pruning late in summer and into fall, pruning at this time may affect the flowering of plants the following year. Additionally, you may want to trim the plants throughout the growing season to encourage blooming. You can also prune at any time if there is any yellowing or diseased foliage.
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How can I prune my Lavandin?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. Remove any dead or decayed stems first, cutting them off just above the damaged section or cutting them completely to the ground. Next, consider the desired height and shape of your Lavandin, and then prune accordingly. To control the size of your Lavandin, you can cut back as much as one third of its height and girth, and it is best done by pruning immediately after flowering Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Lavandin?
Lavandin is generally tolerant of limited water and may become mildewy with too much water. Right after pruning is a good time to water and fertilizer though, to encourage new growth and blooming. However, care needs to be taken to avoid wounded areas when watering to avoid fungal infestation of the plant through fresh wounds. When you are ready to dispose of sections of the plant that you removed during pruning, there are two important things to keep in mind. Lavandin leaves or branches found to be diseased need to be trimmed off and destroyed away from the plant. Do not used as compost material. Wherever you dispose of the trimmings, remember that Lavandin roots and spreads easily. Be careful that your trimmings do not inadvertently produce new, unwanted Lavandin.
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What are some tips for pruning my Lavandin?
From hedges to containers, in any landscape or garden, annual pruning and regular trims can encourage Lavandin produce beautiful blooms and remain healthy for many years. For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. Make each cut at a 45° angle to encourage healthy new growth. As you are pruning your Lavandin, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. Try not to prune heavily at flowering time, just the dried flowers need to be pruned back as this will affect flowering. A useful approach is to remove only the longer branches and sucker shoots, leaving the blooms closer to the primary stems intact. Finally, as you prune, be on the lookout for mold or mildew. Lavandin is susceptible to fungal or bacterial and you will want to address this problem, removing molded or fungal(bacterial) sections to avoid further damage to your Lavandin.
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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Lavandin?

Lavandin loves warmth and prefers to grow in a sunny spot. It is a very drought-tolerant plant and doesn't require much water to grow. However, lavandin requires more frequent watering during establishment and first blossoming season compared to established, mature plants.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Lavandin?
The best temperature for Lavandin to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Lavandin during different growing phases?
Research shows that Lavandin will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Lavandin warm in cold seasons?
Lavandin can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Lavandin suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Lavandin if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Lavandin gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Lavandin gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Lavandin?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Lavandin healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Lavandin warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Lavandin, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Lavandin with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Lavandin in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Lavandin is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Lavandin from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Lavandin extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Lavandin in different seasons?
Lavandin is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Lavandin?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Lavandin in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Lavandin?

Lavandin likes medium-rich to poor soils. If you want to grow this plant for essential oils, you can encourage their production by planting the lavandin in a lean soil.
Lavandin thrives in lean, well-drained soils that are more on the dry side. They also prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soil, with a pH value from 6.7 to 7.3.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Lavandin?

It is best to get new lavandin plants from developed seedlings, considering that their seeds have a lower success rate. If planting in USDA zones 1-6, the recommended time of planting is spring to early summer. If planting in warmer areas (USDA zones 7-10), you can plant your lavandin at the start of the autumn so the root system can establish during the winter. Mix some gravel with the planting soil rather than compost, in order to improve the soil drainage. When done, water the plant generously to compress the soil and remove any air pockets.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Lavandin?

You should harvest lavandin when nearly half of the buds are open. The harvesting process should be conducted early morning because that is the time of the day when the flowers have the highest concentration of essential oils. Cut the stem as low to the base as possible, and when you have a handful of flowers, make a bundle and secure it with a rubber band for drying.
You can use the dry lavandin as a moth repellent and make herb sachets for your closets. These sachets will be effective for some time as the flowers can stay fragrant for many months when packed like this.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Lavandin?

The ideal season for transplanting lavandin is between late spring (S3) to early autumn (S5), when the weather is moderate, ensuring better root establishment. The location should be sunny with well-drained soil, and avoid waterlogged areas. Remember to water lavandin thoroughly after transplanting to reduce shock.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
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More Info on Lavandin Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Lavandin necessitates extensive exposure to the sun for optimal nourishment, hailing from habitats where solar irradiation is abundant. Its growth can be stunted with insufficient sunlight, whereas an excess may cause leaf discoloration or scorching. The sun requirement is consistent through all growth stages.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 38 ℃
Lavandin is native to climates with temperatures ranging from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). This plant prefers temperatures that align with its origin, and may need appropriate adjustments in cooler or warmer seasons to maintain optimal growth conditions.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
2-3 feet
The ideal season for transplanting lavandin is between late spring (S3) to early autumn (S5), when the weather is moderate, ensuring better root establishment. The location should be sunny with well-drained soil, and avoid waterlogged areas. Remember to water lavandin thoroughly after transplanting to reduce shock.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
The lavandin plant is a valuable addition to spaces facing South. In Feng Shui, South is linked with recognition and reputation, and the peaceful aura of lavandin aligns well, potentially improving these areas subtly. However, individual experiences may differ due to the subjective nature of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Winter

This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

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1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
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2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
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3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.

Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

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1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
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2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
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3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
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4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
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5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.

Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

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1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
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Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
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3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
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Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
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5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.

This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

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1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
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You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Lavandin based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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More About Lavandin

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Purple
Blue
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
61 to 91 cm
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Common Problems

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My lavandin was growing just fine, and then abruptly started to fade. I haven't changed anything regarding the care, so why is this happening?

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This can be caused by lower pH of your soil. This is somewhat of a typical problem with lavandin and acidic soil - the plant will establish itself and grow fine for one or two seasons and then abruptly start to die off. It is important to note that lavandin grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils. To decrease the acidity of the soil, add some pulverized limestone to it.

My lavandin can't establish well enough and are dying. Why is this happening?

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If your lavandin is free of diseases but still dying, this might be because of improper soil, too much water or both. In its natural habitat, lavandin grows in loose, slightly sandy, alkaline, and fast-draining soil. Overwatering will create a soggy soil, which hinders the plant's root system from functioning properly, and lowers the production of essential oils. Essential oils are very important for plant's immunity and protection against pests.
Don't worry if this happens, as this is the most common gardening mistake with this plant. Add some pebbles to the soil to improve its drainage, and do not water your lavandin more than three times per two weeks during the establishment phase.
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About
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Lavandin
Lavandin
Lavandin
Lavandin
Lavandin

How to Care for Lavandin

Lavandin (Lavandula intermedia) is a hybrid variety of lavender that's popular for gardens and commercial production. Its fragrant, showy blossoms attract bees, butterflies and other pollinators. It blooms profusely in summer and its dried flowers retain their vibrant color and soothing lavender fragrance. Perfect for dried flower arrangements, potpourri and sachets. Thrives in full sun with moist, well-drained soil.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Lavandin?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Lavandin should be watered two times a week while it is establishing. After that, reduce the watering to once in every 2-3 weeks. When the plants start to bloom, water two times a week to stimulate blooming. Remember that excellent drainage is very important for these plants, and damp soil can provide favorable conditions for various diseases.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Lavandin?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Generally, lavandin does not require any fertilizers and can thrive even in very poor soils. Excess of nutrients can actually be harmful to this plant. For example, adding fertilizers rich in nitrogen, or growing lavandin in nitrogen-rich soil will stimulate the growth of leaves and impede blooming, so you'll have a bushy plant with no flowers.
However, some gardeners like to add a bit of fertilizer once in every few years to encourage the plant to produce many blooms. This is usually achieved by adding a layer of compost 2.5 cm thick around the plant during early spring.
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Fertilizer

Its profusion of large, showy flowerheads makes Lavandin a favorite with gardeners. Whether it’s growing in a container or as a flowering garden shrub/tree, it’s impossible to miss Lavandin when it’s blooming in the summer. However, it also requires the right fertilizer at the correct time to support the large blooms and encourage healthy growth.
You need to fertilize a Lavandin for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Lavandin produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Lavandin has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Lavandin plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Lavandin some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Lavandin hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Lavandin. If you use fertilizer too early while the Lavandin is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
The ideal fertilizer for a Lavandin is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Lavandin 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Lavandin. However, some of the best fertilizers for Lavandin come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Lavandin.
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Lavandin you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Lavandin, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Lavandin may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Lavandin will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth. If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Lavandin to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
Avoid giving Lavandin a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients. Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Lavandin should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Lavandin can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Lavandin?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Lavandin thrives in direct sun. This plant is native to the Mediterranean and parts of Asia and Africa, so it is adapted to grow under full sun. So, if you plan to grow lavandin in your garden, it is best to plant it in a sunny spot.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Lavandin?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Once established, lavandin requires minimal maintenance and pruning. As the plant gets older, the base of the stems will grow woody, so prune it back by about half of its size when the spring comes. This will promote new growth and fuller blooms. Also, lavandin that is not pruned from time to time tends to sprawl and create a hole in the middle of the bush. Lastly, remove the spent flowers to encourage new blooms. Use sharp tools and always disinfect them before use to avoid contamination.
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Advanced Care Guide

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Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Lavandin?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Lavandin loves warmth and prefers to grow in a sunny spot. It is a very drought-tolerant plant and doesn't require much water to grow. However, lavandin requires more frequent watering during establishment and first blossoming season compared to established, mature plants.
What is the optimal temperature for Lavandin?
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Lavandin?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Lavandin likes medium-rich to poor soils. If you want to grow this plant for essential oils, you can encourage their production by planting the lavandin in a lean soil.
Lavandin thrives in lean, well-drained soils that are more on the dry side. They also prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soil, with a pH value from 6.7 to 7.3.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Lavandin?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
It is best to get new lavandin plants from developed seedlings, considering that their seeds have a lower success rate. If planting in USDA zones 1-6, the recommended time of planting is spring to early summer. If planting in warmer areas (USDA zones 7-10), you can plant your lavandin at the start of the autumn so the root system can establish during the winter. Mix some gravel with the planting soil rather than compost, in order to improve the soil drainage. When done, water the plant generously to compress the soil and remove any air pockets.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Lavandin?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
You should harvest lavandin when nearly half of the buds are open. The harvesting process should be conducted early morning because that is the time of the day when the flowers have the highest concentration of essential oils. Cut the stem as low to the base as possible, and when you have a handful of flowers, make a bundle and secure it with a rubber band for drying.
You can use the dry lavandin as a moth repellent and make herb sachets for your closets. These sachets will be effective for some time as the flowers can stay fragrant for many months when packed like this.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Lavandin?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The ideal season for transplanting lavandin is between late spring (S3) to early autumn (S5), when the weather is moderate, ensuring better root establishment. The location should be sunny with well-drained soil, and avoid waterlogged areas. Remember to water lavandin thoroughly after transplanting to reduce shock.
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More Info on Lavandin Growth and Care

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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Winter

This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

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Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.
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2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.
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3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
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4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.

Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

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Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.
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2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.
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3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.
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4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.
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5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.

Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

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1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.
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Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.
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3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.
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Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.
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Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.

This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

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1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.
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2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.
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Common Pests & Diseases

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Common issues for Lavandin based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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More About Lavandin

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Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Purple
Blue
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
61 to 91 cm
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Common Problems

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My lavandin was growing just fine, and then abruptly started to fade. I haven't changed anything regarding the care, so why is this happening?

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This can be caused by lower pH of your soil. This is somewhat of a typical problem with lavandin and acidic soil - the plant will establish itself and grow fine for one or two seasons and then abruptly start to die off. It is important to note that lavandin grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils. To decrease the acidity of the soil, add some pulverized limestone to it.

My lavandin can't establish well enough and are dying. Why is this happening?

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If your lavandin is free of diseases but still dying, this might be because of improper soil, too much water or both. In its natural habitat, lavandin grows in loose, slightly sandy, alkaline, and fast-draining soil. Overwatering will create a soggy soil, which hinders the plant's root system from functioning properly, and lowers the production of essential oils. Essential oils are very important for plant's immunity and protection against pests.
Don't worry if this happens, as this is the most common gardening mistake with this plant. Add some pebbles to the soil to improve its drainage, and do not water your lavandin more than three times per two weeks during the establishment phase.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Lavandin necessitates extensive exposure to the sun for optimal nourishment, hailing from habitats where solar irradiation is abundant. Its growth can be stunted with insufficient sunlight, whereas an excess may cause leaf discoloration or scorching. The sun requirement is consistent through all growth stages.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Lavandin thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Lavandin may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Lavandin enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Lavandin thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Lavandin is native to climates with temperatures ranging from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). This plant prefers temperatures that align with its origin, and may need appropriate adjustments in cooler or warmer seasons to maintain optimal growth conditions.
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