About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
Related Plants
How to care Apples 'golden Delicious'
Though definitely a man-made cultivar, the parentage of the apples 'Golden Delicious' is unknown. Its fruits have thin, pale golden skin, a gentle snap, and delightfully sweet white flesh. These apples are perfect for pies or enjoying on their own on a sunny day.
Sunlight
Full sun
Plant Diagnosis
Diagnose and revive your plant. 10,000,000+ plants helped
Reminders
A custom schedule to meet your plants’ needs
Light Meter
Find the best growing location for your plant baby
Plant Finder
Find plants that are right for your skill level, site, lighting, etc
Basic Care Guide
Water
Watering is important and required within two days after transplanting. The soil should be completely saturated so that the roots can get sufficient water supply. If apples 'Golden Delicious' is planted in a courtyard, water it until water accumulates on the soil surface without seepage for an extended time. If it is planted in a flower pot, fill the tray under the flower pot with water to let the water slowly penetrate into the soil. About ten days after transplanting, water apples 'Golden Delicious' again to promote growth. Watering thereafter should be based on external climate and soil conditions; there is no need to water when the soil is still moist. Water should be provided when the soil is relatively dry, but don’t water so much that it accumulates around the tree.
Watering once every 3-5 days in winter is generally advised. With sufficient sunlight in summer, apples 'Golden Delicious' should be watered once every 1-2 days. Be careful not to provide too much water each time. The best irrigation time is in the morning or on sunny days. this timing can promote water absorption and root respiration in the case of transpiration during the day. Avoid watering on rainy days, as this can easily cause root rot.
Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
Fertilizer
Apples 'Golden Delicious' prefers fertilizer, and soil fertility will affect its growth and reproduction. It is best to apply sufficient base fertilizer composed mostly of organic fertilizer as well as some quick-acting fertilizer. Fertilizer application in fall produces the best results; it promotes rooting and accumulation of more nutrients for the following year's growth. Additionally, there are two other recommended fertilization times: before spring buds and when the fruit begins to grow. Dig out a small soil ditch 30 cm around the trunk, and then add the fertilizer evenly, water thoroughly, and loosen the soil properly after drying.
Sunlight
Apples 'Golden Delicious' prefers sunlight and grows well in full sun. Sufficient sunlight for about 8 hours a day is recommended. Sunlight will have a great impact on flower colors, while insufficient sunlight will lead to lighter colors. If there is strong light in summer, apples 'Golden Delicious' needs proper shady conditions to avoid high-temperature injuries. Too much light may cause leaf curling or spots on stems and leaves.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Pruning
Pruning is very important for apples 'Golden Delicious' and is usually performed between late fall after its leaves drop and early spring before it sprouts. Pruning not only keeps branches scattered and maintains the tree's shape, but also ensures ventilation and sunlight transmission, which is conducive to its growth. Promptly cut off dense, overlapping, thin, and infected branches, or prune out a suitable and aesthetic shape based on the viewing environment. When blooming, you can also cut off some branches and cut away withered flowers to promote budding and the blossoming of new branches.
When pruning and cutting longer branches, leave enough new buds for branches to grow better afterward.
Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Widely distributed in the northern temperate zone, apples 'Golden Delicious' is generally very adaptable to the distinct seasons, including hot summers and cold winters. It can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃. Apples 'Golden Delicious' can’t tolerate extremely high temperatures in summer; temperatures above 32 ℃ will affect its growth. The tree is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much water, hence, avoid over-watering it.
Soil
Apples 'Golden Delicious' can adapt to various soils. The most suitable soil for growth is slightly acidic or neutral, humus-rich, loose, well-drained, and sandy. The best pH range for the soil is 6-8. During cultivation, the soil can be mixed with garden soil, peat soil, and organic fertilizer in a proportion of 6:3:1.
Propagation
Planting
If there is a seedling growing at the root, you can cut the seedling from the plant before budding in spring or after leaves fall in autumn and winter. It is best to cut off the roots of the seedling and transplant them into new pots or dug pits.
It is generally easiest to plant apples 'Golden Delicious' by buying seedlings rather than sowing seeds. The recommended planting time is before budding in early spring or after leaves fall in early winter. Before planting, thoroughly check whether the roots of the tree are healthy. If rotten roots are found, they need to be quickly cut and disinfected with carbendazim.
When planted in a garden, the pit depth should be about 40 cm and the diameter about 60 cm. If the root is large, the size of the pit needs to be twice as big as the root ball. Before transplanting, apply some rotten organic fertilizer as the base fertilizer. In severe cold zones, pay attention to keeping apples 'Golden Delicious' warm while transplanting. Add a cover such as wood chips or mulch at the base of the plant to ensure it overwinters safely.
Seasonal Precautions
If in summer the plant is exposed to high temperatures or strong, direct light, you can set up a shading net for small tree seedlings. Be sure to provide adequate drainage for heavy rainy days. During high temperatures, increase watering frequency to protect apples 'Golden Delicious' from dehydration, but do not water it at noon. Apples 'Golden Delicious' is dormant in winter and has lower water requirements, hence, be careful to avoid overwatering.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Apples 'Golden Delicious' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
More About Apples 'golden Delicious'
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
8 m
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Common Problems
Why are the leaves of apples 'Golden Delicious' turning yellow?
There are many possible causes of yellowing leaves. First, check whether the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient light, high temperatures, sun exposure, unsuitable soil, and lack of fertilizer or water can all cause plant leaves to yellow or wither. If the environment appears suitable, check whether the symptoms are caused by pests. Insect pests are the easiest to spot, indicated by traces such as insect bites and eggs, or the presence of insects themselves. If pests are not found, yellowing may be caused by a disease like root rot. The infected part of the plant needs to be removed and the cut should be quickly disinfected.
Why does apples 'Golden Delicious' only grow leaves without flowers, or have only a few blooms?
Non-flowering or scarce blooms are generally caused by a lack of plant nutrients. Fertilizer should be applied once during the spring leaf-spreading period to provide sufficient nutrition for flower buds. Be careful, however: applying too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause branches and leaves to grow too fast to bloom. During flower bud growth, apply some phosphorus potassium fertilizers to promote blossoming. Re-fertilization after flowering also helps flower buds develop and accumulate nutrients for blossoming in the coming year. Adequate sunlight, good ventilation, and proper watering are all necessary conditions for flowering. Additionally, the extra branches and leaves should be pruned regularly to ensure that more nutrients are distributed to reproduction and growth.
Why are leaves still withering despite sufficient watering?
Withered leaves may not be caused by a lack of water. If the soil is moist but leaves are still dry, the problem may be pests. The affected and dry leaves need to be quickly removed and ventilation should be provided to the plant immediately. Eliminate pests by spraying the plant with broad-spectrum pesticides.
Plants with Same Care Needs
Virginia creeper
The virginia creeper is a North American vine from the grape family that has it all - vigorous growth, fragrant flowers, decorative blue-colored berries, and leaves that turn crimson in the fall. Using small forked tendrils with adhesive pads, the virginia creeper will cling strongly to almost all surfaces. It can grow over entire walls, providing shelter and food for wildlife.
Bloom Time
Early summer
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
American pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of american pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. American pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
Bloom Time
Summer
Black cherry
Black cherry (Prunus serotina) is a medium-sized, deciduous forest tree native to the Americas, but also naturalized in parts of Europe. It features inflorescence with small white blooms that become clusters of dark cherries, edible when pitted. Mature trees have gray-to-black, distinctly crackled bark. The glossy leaves are poisonous to livestock. It is a highly reproductive pioneer species with invasive potential.
Bloom Time
Spring
Horseweed
Horseweed is a North American herbaceous annual plant with a hairy stem, numerous pointed leaves, and waxy inflorescence. It has been naturalized in Eurasia and Australia, where it is a common weed in urban and agricultural regions. Horseweed can be used in a survival situation to start a friction fire.
Bloom Time
Summer
Tree of heaven
While the tree of heaven has a lovely name, it has a bad reputation in many areas of the US. Several states consider it an invasive species because of its aggressive growth, rapid reproduction, and ability to thrive in poor conditions. The root system of this tree routinely damages sidewalks, sewer systems and other structures.
Bloom Time
Late spring
View More Plants
Botanist in your pocket
App
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Logged in!
Botanist in your pocket
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
How to care Apples 'golden Delicious'
Though definitely a man-made cultivar, the parentage of the apples 'Golden Delicious' is unknown. Its fruits have thin, pale golden skin, a gentle snap, and delightfully sweet white flesh. These apples are perfect for pies or enjoying on their own on a sunny day.
Sunlight
Full sun
Basic Care Guide
Water
Watering is important and required within two days after transplanting. The soil should be completely saturated so that the roots can get sufficient water supply. If apples 'Golden Delicious' is planted in a courtyard, water it until water accumulates on the soil surface without seepage for an extended time. If it is planted in a flower pot, fill the tray under the flower pot with water to let the water slowly penetrate into the soil. About ten days after transplanting, water apples 'Golden Delicious' again to promote growth. Watering thereafter should be based on external climate and soil conditions; there is no need to water when the soil is still moist. Water should be provided when the soil is relatively dry, but don’t water so much that it accumulates around the tree.
Watering once every 3-5 days in winter is generally advised. With sufficient sunlight in summer, apples 'Golden Delicious' should be watered once every 1-2 days. Be careful not to provide too much water each time. The best irrigation time is in the morning or on sunny days. this timing can promote water absorption and root respiration in the case of transpiration during the day. Avoid watering on rainy days, as this can easily cause root rot.
Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
Fertilizer
Apples 'Golden Delicious' prefers fertilizer, and soil fertility will affect its growth and reproduction. It is best to apply sufficient base fertilizer composed mostly of organic fertilizer as well as some quick-acting fertilizer. Fertilizer application in fall produces the best results; it promotes rooting and accumulation of more nutrients for the following year's growth. Additionally, there are two other recommended fertilization times: before spring buds and when the fruit begins to grow. Dig out a small soil ditch 30 cm around the trunk, and then add the fertilizer evenly, water thoroughly, and loosen the soil properly after drying.
Sunlight
Apples 'Golden Delicious' prefers sunlight and grows well in full sun. Sufficient sunlight for about 8 hours a day is recommended. Sunlight will have a great impact on flower colors, while insufficient sunlight will lead to lighter colors. If there is strong light in summer, apples 'Golden Delicious' needs proper shady conditions to avoid high-temperature injuries. Too much light may cause leaf curling or spots on stems and leaves.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Pruning
Pruning is very important for apples 'Golden Delicious' and is usually performed between late fall after its leaves drop and early spring before it sprouts. Pruning not only keeps branches scattered and maintains the tree's shape, but also ensures ventilation and sunlight transmission, which is conducive to its growth. Promptly cut off dense, overlapping, thin, and infected branches, or prune out a suitable and aesthetic shape based on the viewing environment. When blooming, you can also cut off some branches and cut away withered flowers to promote budding and the blossoming of new branches.
When pruning and cutting longer branches, leave enough new buds for branches to grow better afterward.
Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
Widely distributed in the northern temperate zone, apples 'Golden Delicious' is generally very adaptable to the distinct seasons, including hot summers and cold winters. It can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃. Apples 'Golden Delicious' can’t tolerate extremely high temperatures in summer; temperatures above 32 ℃ will affect its growth. The tree is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much water, hence, avoid over-watering it.
Soil
Apples 'Golden Delicious' can adapt to various soils. The most suitable soil for growth is slightly acidic or neutral, humus-rich, loose, well-drained, and sandy. The best pH range for the soil is 6-8. During cultivation, the soil can be mixed with garden soil, peat soil, and organic fertilizer in a proportion of 6:3:1.
Propagation
Planting
If there is a seedling growing at the root, you can cut the seedling from the plant before budding in spring or after leaves fall in autumn and winter. It is best to cut off the roots of the seedling and transplant them into new pots or dug pits.
It is generally easiest to plant apples 'Golden Delicious' by buying seedlings rather than sowing seeds. The recommended planting time is before budding in early spring or after leaves fall in early winter. Before planting, thoroughly check whether the roots of the tree are healthy. If rotten roots are found, they need to be quickly cut and disinfected with carbendazim.
When planted in a garden, the pit depth should be about 40 cm and the diameter about 60 cm. If the root is large, the size of the pit needs to be twice as big as the root ball. Before transplanting, apply some rotten organic fertilizer as the base fertilizer. In severe cold zones, pay attention to keeping apples 'Golden Delicious' warm while transplanting. Add a cover such as wood chips or mulch at the base of the plant to ensure it overwinters safely.
Seasonal Precautions
If in summer the plant is exposed to high temperatures or strong, direct light, you can set up a shading net for small tree seedlings. Be sure to provide adequate drainage for heavy rainy days. During high temperatures, increase watering frequency to protect apples 'Golden Delicious' from dehydration, but do not water it at noon. Apples 'Golden Delicious' is dormant in winter and has lower water requirements, hence, be careful to avoid overwatering.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Apples 'Golden Delicious' based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
More About Apples 'golden Delicious'
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Plant Height
8 m
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Common Problems
Why are the leaves of apples 'Golden Delicious' turning yellow?
There are many possible causes of yellowing leaves. First, check whether the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient light, high temperatures, sun exposure, unsuitable soil, and lack of fertilizer or water can all cause plant leaves to yellow or wither. If the environment appears suitable, check whether the symptoms are caused by pests. Insect pests are the easiest to spot, indicated by traces such as insect bites and eggs, or the presence of insects themselves. If pests are not found, yellowing may be caused by a disease like root rot. The infected part of the plant needs to be removed and the cut should be quickly disinfected.
Why does apples 'Golden Delicious' only grow leaves without flowers, or have only a few blooms?
Non-flowering or scarce blooms are generally caused by a lack of plant nutrients. Fertilizer should be applied once during the spring leaf-spreading period to provide sufficient nutrition for flower buds. Be careful, however: applying too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause branches and leaves to grow too fast to bloom. During flower bud growth, apply some phosphorus potassium fertilizers to promote blossoming. Re-fertilization after flowering also helps flower buds develop and accumulate nutrients for blossoming in the coming year. Adequate sunlight, good ventilation, and proper watering are all necessary conditions for flowering. Additionally, the extra branches and leaves should be pruned regularly to ensure that more nutrients are distributed to reproduction and growth.
Why are leaves still withering despite sufficient watering?
Withered leaves may not be caused by a lack of water. If the soil is moist but leaves are still dry, the problem may be pests. The affected and dry leaves need to be quickly removed and ventilation should be provided to the plant immediately. Eliminate pests by spraying the plant with broad-spectrum pesticides.
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
