camera identify
Try for Free
tab list
PictureThis
English
arrow
English
繁體中文
日本語
Español
Français
Deutsch
Pусский
Português
Italiano
한국어
Nederlands
العربية
Svenska
Polskie
ภาษาไทย
Bahasa Melayu
Bahasa Indonesia
PictureThis
Search
Search Plants
Try for Free
Global
English
English
繁體中文
日本語
Español
Français
Deutsch
Pусский
Português
Italiano
한국어
Nederlands
العربية
Svenska
Polskie
ภาษาไทย
Bahasa Melayu
Bahasa Indonesia
This page looks better in the app
care_about care_about
About
care_basic_guide care_basic_guide
Basic Care
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
care_scenes care_scenes
More About How-Tos
care_seasonal_tips care_seasonal_tips
Seasonal Tips
care_pet_and_diseases care_pet_and_diseases
Pests & Diseases
care_more_info care_more_info
More Info
care_faq care_faq
FAQ

How to Care for Plumleaf Crab Apple

The plumleaf crab apple or Malus prunifolia is grown as an ornamental tree or for root stock on which to graft other trees. The fruit of Malus prunifolia can be eaten fresh or in preserves, but it is said to have a bitter taste.
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, Healing, Garden, Magic
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Plumleaf crab apple?

Watering is important and required within two days after transplanting. The soil should be completely saturated so that the roots can get sufficient water supply. If plumleaf crab apple is planted in a courtyard, water it until water accumulates on the soil surface without seepage for an extended time. If it is planted in a flower pot, fill the tray under the flower pot with water to let the water slowly penetrate into the soil. About ten days after transplanting, water plumleaf crab apple again to promote growth. Watering thereafter should be based on external climate and soil conditions; there is no need to water when the soil is still moist. Water should be provided when the soil is relatively dry, but don’t water so much that it accumulates around the tree.
Watering once every 3-5 days in winter is generally advised. With sufficient sunlight in summer, plumleaf crab apple should be watered once every 1-2 days. Be careful not to provide too much water each time. The best irrigation time is in the morning or on sunny days. This timing can promote water absorption and root respiration in the case of transpiration during the day. Avoid watering on rainy days, as this can easily cause root rot.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What's the best method to water my Plumleaf crab apple?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Plumleaf crab apple prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
Read More more
What should I do if I water Plumleaf crab apple too much/too little?
An overwatered Plumleaf crab apple can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Plumleaf crab apple recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Plumleaf crab apple indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Plumleaf crab apple outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
Read More more
How often should I water my Plumleaf crab apple?
The Plumleaf crab apple likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Plumleaf crab apple generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
Read More more
How much water do I need to give my Plumleaf crab apple?
The Plumleaf crab apple generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Plumleaf crab apple is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Plumleaf crab apple is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Plumleaf crab apple continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Plumleaf crab apple a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
Read More more
Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Plumleaf crab apple according to different seasons or climates?
The Plumleaf crab apple needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Plumleaf crab apple to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Plumleaf crab apple will need less water during the winter. Since the Plumleaf crab apple will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Plumleaf crab apple growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Plumleaf crab apple can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Plumleaf crab apple and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Plumleaf crab apple’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Plumleaf crab apple’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
Read More more
What should I be careful with when I water my Plumleaf crab apple in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Plumleaf crab apple mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Plumleaf crab apple in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Plumleaf crab apple begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
Read More more
Why is watering my Plumleaf crab apple important?
Watering the Plumleaf crab apple helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Plumleaf crab apple thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Plumleaf crab apple?

Plumleaf crab apple prefers fertilizer, and soil fertility will affect its growth and reproduction. It is best to apply sufficient base fertilizer composed mostly of organic fertilizer as well as some quick-acting fertilizer. Fertilizer application in fall produces the best results; it promotes rooting and accumulation of more nutrients for the following year's growth. Additionally, there are two other recommended fertilization times: before spring buds and when the fruit begins to grow. Dig out a small soil ditch 30 cm around the trunk, and then add the fertilizer evenly, water thoroughly, and loosen the soil properly after drying.

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Plumleaf crab apple since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Plumleaf crab apple plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Plumleaf crab apple outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Plumleaf crab apple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Plumleaf crab apple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Plumleaf crab apple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Plumleaf crab apple. Doing so will prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Plumleaf crab apple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Plumleaf crab apple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Plumleaf crab apple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Plumleaf crab apple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Plumleaf crab apple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Plumleaf crab apple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Plumleaf crab apple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Plumleaf crab apple may also need
To fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Plumleaf crab apple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Plumleaf crab apple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Plumleaf crab apple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Plumleaf crab apple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Plumleaf crab apple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Plumleaf crab apple.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Plumleaf crab apple will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Plumleaf crab apple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple?
Regardless of which kind of Plumleaf crab apple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Plumleaf crab apple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Plumleaf crab apple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Plumleaf crab apple. Doing so will prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple?
The first time that you should fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Plumleaf crab apple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Plumleaf crab apple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Plumleaf crab apple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Plumleaf crab apple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Plumleaf crab apple?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Plumleaf crab apple will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Plumleaf crab apple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Plumleaf crab apple need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Plumleaf crab apple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Plumleaf crab apple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Plumleaf crab apple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple?
To fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Plumleaf crab apple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Plumleaf crab apple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Plumleaf crab apple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Plumleaf crab apple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Plumleaf crab apple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Plumleaf crab apple.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Plumleaf crab apple?

Plumleaf crab apple prefers sunlight and grows well in full sun. Sufficient sunlight for about 8 hours a day is recommended. Sunlight will have a great impact on flower colors, while insufficient sunlight will lead to lighter colors. If there is strong light in summer, plumleaf crab apple needs proper shady conditions to avoid high-temperature injuries. Too much light may cause leaf curling or spots on stems and leaves.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Plumleaf crab apple get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Plumleaf crab apple receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
Read More more
What type of sunlight does Plumleaf crab apple need?
Plumleaf crab apple does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
Read More more
Can sunlight damage Plumleaf crab apple? How to protect Plumleaf crab apple from the sun and heat damage?
Plumleaf crab apple planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Plumleaf crab apple during extreme weather events.
Read More more
Does Plumleaf crab apple need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Plumleaf crab apple from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Plumleaf crab apple, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Plumleaf crab apple to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
Read More more
What will happen if Plumleaf crab apple gets inadequate sunlight?
When Plumleaf crab apple receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Plumleaf crab apple receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
Read More more
Does Plumleaf crab apple need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Plumleaf crab apple and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Plumleaf crab apple fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
Read More more
Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Plumleaf crab apple?
Recently transplanted Plumleaf crab apple will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Plumleaf crab apple drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Plumleaf crab apple that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Plumleaf crab apple?

Pruning is very important for plumleaf crab apple and is usually performed between late fall after its leaves drop and early spring before it sprouts. Pruning not only keeps branches scattered and maintains the tree's shape, but also ensures ventilation and sunlight transmission, which is conducive to its growth. Promptly cut off dense, overlapping, thin, and infected branches, or prune out a suitable and aesthetic shape based on the viewing environment. When blooming, you can also cut off some branches and cut away withered flowers to promote budding and the blossoming of new branches.
When pruning and cutting longer branches, leave enough new buds for branches to grow better afterward.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Plumleaf crab apple?
It is not always necessary to prune Plumleaf crab apple, but there are several reasons people may choose to do so depending on their individual preferences. The most common reason is to encourage healthy growth and remove diseased or dying portions of the plant. But there are also aesthetic reasons, such as to make the Plumleaf crab apple look more symmetrical and tidy. Pinching the stem tips promotes branching, which can make the plant bushier and prevent you having to prune off longer stems in the future. Pruning dense parts of the plant allows for better air circulation, which helps prevent disease and also creates a more pleasing appearance. A mature Plumleaf crab apple will produce suckers that allow the plant to spread. If you prefer to confine it to one area, you will need to prune these off before they become established. On the other hand, if you are happy to let it spread, these can be left on the plant.
Read More more
When is the best time to prune my Plumleaf crab apple?
Pruning any unhealthy growth is best performed in the early spring, allowing the plant to devote its energy to putting out the most new growth over the summer months. You can also remove branches that are growing diagonally or rubbing against other branches at this time to improve the plant’s appearance and keep it from getting damaged. Tips For Pruning Unless the plant is severely diseased or damaged, it’s recommended that you not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. While Plumleaf crab apple is resilient, over-pruning causes unnecessary stress. That said, Plumleaf crab apple sometimes may die back after being eaten or due to other damage such as that caused by severe winter weather. In this case, the deep root system can save the day and Plumleaf crab apple will often be able to regrow the following spring. In this case, you are unlikely to need to prune this year except to remove dead leaves or branches. Remember to remove branches from different portions of the plant equally, including those toward the center of the plant that may be more difficult to reach. This helps keep its leaves to be equally distributed, and improves the overall appearance of your Plumleaf crab apple
Read More more
How can I prune my Plumleaf crab apple?
Plumleaf crab apple has a more pleasing and well-maintained appearance when it is pruned occasionally. Removing dead leaves and branches keeps it looking healthy and vibrant. Pruning off crooked or slanted branches provides a symmetrical shape and makes Plumleaf crab apple look neat and tidy. Hand pruners are generally sufficient for pruning Plumleaf crab apple if you are pruning it annually, since branches won’t get thick enough to require heavy-duty cutting tools. However, if you are pruning more mature branches, you may want to use loppers or a saw. Start by removing any dead or damaged branches. You can either prune these back to the point where the branch is still healthy, or you can cut it all the way at the base of the plant. After removing these, decide if there are other branches that should be removed to promote new growth. Generally these should be the oldest and thickest branches, and you should aim to cut about one-fourth to one-third of the branches from a mature and healthy Plumleaf crab apple. Sterilize your cutting tool before pruning to avoid introducing disease, and ensure your own safety with the appropriate gloves and eye protection. Then prune each of the branches you’ve chosen to remove, making a clean cut at a 45-degree angle without crushing or twisting the branch.
Read More more
What should I do after pruning my Plumleaf crab apple?
Avoid getting the newly-cut branches wet after pruning, since that can make it more likely for your Plumleaf crab apple to get an infection. Once the wound has dried and callused, it is much less vulnerable. Remove any leaves and branches from the area after pruning. It is also a good idea to water, mulch, and fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple at this time to support its quick recovery.
Read More more
left right
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Plumleaf crab apple?

Widely distributed in the northern temperate zone, plumleaf crab apple is generally very adaptable to the distinct seasons, including hot summers and cold winters. It can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃. Plumleaf crab apple can’t tolerate extremely high temperatures in summer; temperatures above 32 ℃ will affect its growth. The tree is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much water, hence, avoid over-watering it.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Plumleaf crab apple?
The best temperature for Plumleaf crab apple to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
Read More more
Should I adjust the temperature for Plumleaf crab apple during different growing phases?
Research shows that Plumleaf crab apple will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
Read More more
How can I keep Plumleaf crab apple warm in cold seasons?
Plumleaf crab apple can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
Read More more
What damage will Plumleaf crab apple suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Plumleaf crab apple if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Plumleaf crab apple gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Plumleaf crab apple gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
Read More more
What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Plumleaf crab apple?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Plumleaf crab apple healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
Read More more
How can I keep Plumleaf crab apple warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Plumleaf crab apple, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
Read More more
How can I provide Plumleaf crab apple with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Plumleaf crab apple in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Plumleaf crab apple is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
Read More more
How can I save Plumleaf crab apple from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Plumleaf crab apple extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
Read More more
Should I adjust the temperature for Plumleaf crab apple in different seasons?
Plumleaf crab apple is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
Read More more
Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Plumleaf crab apple?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Plumleaf crab apple in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Plumleaf crab apple?

Plumleaf crab apple can adapt to various soils. The most suitable soil for growth is slightly acidic or neutral, humus-rich, loose, well-drained, and sandy. The best pH range for the soil is 6-8. During cultivation, the soil can be mixed with garden soil, peat soil, and organic fertilizer in a proportion of 6:3:1.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Plumleaf crab apple?

If there is a seedling growing at the root, you can cut the seedling from the plant before budding in spring or after leaves fall in autumn and winter. It is best to cut off the roots of the seedling and transplant them into new pots or dug pits.

Propagation

Plumleaf crab apple provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Plumleaf crab apple grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Plumleaf crab apple has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Plumleaf crab apple. For a simpler procedure, hardwood cuttings is a good choice. Plumleaf crab apple can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful.Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Plumleaf crab apple, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Plumleaf crab apple into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Plumleaf crab apple there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Plumleaf crab apple around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Plumleaf crab apple to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Plumleaf crab apple is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Plumleaf crab apple?

It is generally easiest to plant plumleaf crab apple by buying seedlings rather than sowing seeds. The recommended planting time is before budding in early spring or after leaves fall in early winter. Before planting, thoroughly check whether the roots of the tree are healthy. If rotten roots are found, they need to be quickly cut and disinfected with carbendazim.
When planted in a garden, the pit depth should be about 40 cm and the diameter about 60 cm. If the root is large, the size of the pit needs to be twice as big as the root ball. Before transplanting, apply some rotten organic fertilizer as the base fertilizer. In severe cold zones, pay attention to keeping plumleaf crab apple warm while transplanting. Add a cover such as wood chips or mulch at the base of the plant to ensure it overwinters safely.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Plumleaf crab apple?

The best season to transplant plumleaf crab apple is during its dormancy period, particularly from late fall to early spring (S3-S4), because this timing ensures minimal disruption to its growth cycle. Choose a location that boasts well-drained soil and ample sunlight. Be gentle when handling the root-ball to avoid damage - a healthy start promotes robust growth!
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Plumleaf Crab Apple Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
Plumleaf crab apple flourishes under a full day's exposure to sun, but can also tolerate slightly shaded conditions. Originating from environments rich in sunlight, its health and growth are optimized by abundant sun exposure. Overexposure can potentially cause leaf scorch, however, while inadequate light may weaken the plant and impair fruit production.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-30 - 35 ℃
Plumleaf crab apple, a temperate woody plant, prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90℉ (0 to 32℃). It is native to areas with cool summers and cold winters, making it suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9. In warmer regions, plant in a location with afternoon shade and provide adequate water during the summer.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
10-15 feet
The best season to transplant plumleaf crab apple is during its dormancy period, particularly from late fall to early spring (S3-S4), because this timing ensures minimal disruption to its growth cycle. Choose a location that boasts well-drained soil and ample sunlight. Be gentle when handling the root-ball to avoid damage - a healthy start promotes robust growth!
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring
A deciduous tree famed for its vibrant foliage and hardy fruit, plumleaf crab apple benefits from pruning to enhance health and structure. Key techniques include thinning out crowded branches, removing suckers, and shaping for form. Optimal pruning should be done in early spring to encourage robust growth. Careful pruning maintains airflow and light penetration, reducing the risk of disease and promoting fruit quality. Regular pruning also facilitates manageable tree size and easier harvest.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
East
Plumleaf crab apple is generally perceived to have a harmonious relationship with the East-facing direction. This stems from an underlying belief in Feng Shui that associates the East with growth and renewal, reflecting this plant's resilience and constant rejuvenation. However, one's personal Qi and environment play a significant role in this perceived auspiciousness.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

If in summer the plant is exposed to high temperatures or strong, direct light, you can set up a shading net for small tree seedlings. Be sure to provide adequate drainage for heavy rainy days. During high temperatures, increase watering frequency to protect plumleaf crab apple from dehydration, but do not water it at noon. Plumleaf crab apple is dormant in winter and has lower water requirements, hence, be careful to avoid overwatering.
seasonal-tip
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

more
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
more
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
more
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
more
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

more
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
more
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
more
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
more
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
more
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

more
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
more
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
more
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
more
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

more
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
more
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
more
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Plumleaf crab apple based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Nutrient deficiencies
plant poor
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Plumleaf Crab Apple

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
8 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
4 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 to 8 m
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why are the leaves of plumleaf crab apple turning yellow?

more more
There are many possible causes of yellowing leaves. First, check whether the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient light, high temperatures, sun exposure, unsuitable soil, and lack of fertilizer or water can all cause plant leaves to yellow or wither. If the environment appears suitable, check whether the symptoms are caused by pests. Insect pests are the easiest to spot, indicated by traces such as insect bites and eggs, or the presence of insects themselves. If pests are not found, yellowing may be caused by a disease like root rot. The infected part of the plant needs to be removed and the cut should be quickly disinfected.

Why does plumleaf crab apple only grow leaves without flowers, or have only a few blooms?

more more
Non-flowering or scarce blooms are generally caused by a lack of plant nutrients. Fertilizer should be applied once during the spring leaf-spreading period to provide sufficient nutrition for flower buds. Be careful, however: applying too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause branches and leaves to grow too fast to bloom. During flower bud growth, apply some phosphorus potassium fertilizers to promote blossoming. Re-fertilization after flowering also helps flower buds develop and accumulate nutrients for blossoming in the coming year. Adequate sunlight, good ventilation, and proper watering are all necessary conditions for flowering. Additionally, the extra branches and leaves should be pruned regularly to ensure that more nutrients are distributed to reproduction and growth.

Why are leaves still withering despite sufficient watering?

more more
Withered leaves may not be caused by a lack of water. If the soil is moist but leaves are still dry, the problem may be pests. The affected and dry leaves need to be quickly removed and ventilation should be provided to the plant immediately. Eliminate pests by spraying the plant with broad-spectrum pesticides.
plant

Botanist in your pocket

plant
plant

App

plant
close
product icon
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify grow and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
ad
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
title
Botanist in your pocket
qrcode
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple
Plumleaf crab apple

How to Care for Plumleaf Crab Apple

The plumleaf crab apple or Malus prunifolia is grown as an ornamental tree or for root stock on which to graft other trees. The fruit of Malus prunifolia can be eaten fresh or in preserves, but it is said to have a bitter taste.
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, Healing, Garden, Magic
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Watering is important and required within two days after transplanting. The soil should be completely saturated so that the roots can get sufficient water supply. If plumleaf crab apple is planted in a courtyard, water it until water accumulates on the soil surface without seepage for an extended time. If it is planted in a flower pot, fill the tray under the flower pot with water to let the water slowly penetrate into the soil. About ten days after transplanting, water plumleaf crab apple again to promote growth. Watering thereafter should be based on external climate and soil conditions; there is no need to water when the soil is still moist. Water should be provided when the soil is relatively dry, but don’t water so much that it accumulates around the tree.
Watering once every 3-5 days in winter is generally advised. With sufficient sunlight in summer, plumleaf crab apple should be watered once every 1-2 days. Be careful not to provide too much water each time. The best irrigation time is in the morning or on sunny days. This timing can promote water absorption and root respiration in the case of transpiration during the day. Avoid watering on rainy days, as this can easily cause root rot.
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What's the best method to water my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
What should I do if I water Plumleaf crab apple too much/too little?
more
How often should I water my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
How much water do I need to give my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Plumleaf crab apple prefers fertilizer, and soil fertility will affect its growth and reproduction. It is best to apply sufficient base fertilizer composed mostly of organic fertilizer as well as some quick-acting fertilizer. Fertilizer application in fall produces the best results; it promotes rooting and accumulation of more nutrients for the following year's growth. Additionally, there are two other recommended fertilization times: before spring buds and when the fruit begins to grow. Dig out a small soil ditch 30 cm around the trunk, and then add the fertilizer evenly, water thoroughly, and loosen the soil properly after drying.
close

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Plumleaf crab apple since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Plumleaf crab apple plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Plumleaf crab apple outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Plumleaf crab apple you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Plumleaf crab apple be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Plumleaf crab apple is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Plumleaf crab apple. Doing so will prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Plumleaf crab apple all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Plumleaf crab apple to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Plumleaf crab apple will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Plumleaf crab apple be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Plumleaf crab apple is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Plumleaf crab apple likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Plumleaf crab apple. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Plumleaf crab apple may also need
To fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Plumleaf crab apple, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Plumleaf crab apple. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Plumleaf crab apple. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Plumleaf crab apple may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Plumleaf crab apple can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Plumleaf crab apple to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Plumleaf crab apple.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Plumleaf crab apple. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Plumleaf crab apple will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Plumleaf crab apple will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Why do I need to fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
When is the best time to fertilize my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
What type of fertilizer does my Plumleaf crab apple need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Plumleaf crab apple prefers sunlight and grows well in full sun. Sufficient sunlight for about 8 hours a day is recommended. Sunlight will have a great impact on flower colors, while insufficient sunlight will lead to lighter colors. If there is strong light in summer, plumleaf crab apple needs proper shady conditions to avoid high-temperature injuries. Too much light may cause leaf curling or spots on stems and leaves.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Plumleaf crab apple get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
more
What type of sunlight does Plumleaf crab apple need?
more
Can sunlight damage Plumleaf crab apple? How to protect Plumleaf crab apple from the sun and heat damage?
more
Does Plumleaf crab apple need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Plumleaf crab apple from the sun?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is very important for plumleaf crab apple and is usually performed between late fall after its leaves drop and early spring before it sprouts. Pruning not only keeps branches scattered and maintains the tree's shape, but also ensures ventilation and sunlight transmission, which is conducive to its growth. Promptly cut off dense, overlapping, thin, and infected branches, or prune out a suitable and aesthetic shape based on the viewing environment. When blooming, you can also cut off some branches and cut away withered flowers to promote budding and the blossoming of new branches.
When pruning and cutting longer branches, leave enough new buds for branches to grow better afterward.
Is pruning necessary for my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
When is the best time to prune my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
How can I prune my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
What should I do after pruning my Plumleaf crab apple?
more
Show More more
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Widely distributed in the northern temperate zone, plumleaf crab apple is generally very adaptable to the distinct seasons, including hot summers and cold winters. It can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃. Plumleaf crab apple can’t tolerate extremely high temperatures in summer; temperatures above 32 ℃ will affect its growth. The tree is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much water, hence, avoid over-watering it.
What is the optimal temperature for Plumleaf crab apple?
more
Should I adjust the temperature for Plumleaf crab apple during different growing phases?
more
How can I keep Plumleaf crab apple warm in cold seasons?
more
What damage will Plumleaf crab apple suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Plumleaf crab apple can adapt to various soils. The most suitable soil for growth is slightly acidic or neutral, humus-rich, loose, well-drained, and sandy. The best pH range for the soil is 6-8. During cultivation, the soil can be mixed with garden soil, peat soil, and organic fertilizer in a proportion of 6:3:1.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
If there is a seedling growing at the root, you can cut the seedling from the plant before budding in spring or after leaves fall in autumn and winter. It is best to cut off the roots of the seedling and transplant them into new pots or dug pits.
close

Propagation

Plumleaf crab apple provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Plumleaf crab apple grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Plumleaf crab apple has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Plumleaf crab apple. For a simpler procedure, hardwood cuttings is a good choice. Plumleaf crab apple can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful.Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Plumleaf crab apple, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Plumleaf crab apple into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Plumleaf crab apple there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Plumleaf crab apple around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Plumleaf crab apple to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Plumleaf crab apple is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Plumleaf crab apple?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
It is generally easiest to plant plumleaf crab apple by buying seedlings rather than sowing seeds. The recommended planting time is before budding in early spring or after leaves fall in early winter. Before planting, thoroughly check whether the roots of the tree are healthy. If rotten roots are found, they need to be quickly cut and disinfected with carbendazim.
When planted in a garden, the pit depth should be about 40 cm and the diameter about 60 cm. If the root is large, the size of the pit needs to be twice as big as the root ball. Before transplanting, apply some rotten organic fertilizer as the base fertilizer. In severe cold zones, pay attention to keeping plumleaf crab apple warm while transplanting. Add a cover such as wood chips or mulch at the base of the plant to ensure it overwinters safely.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Plumleaf crab apple?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best season to transplant plumleaf crab apple is during its dormancy period, particularly from late fall to early spring (S3-S4), because this timing ensures minimal disruption to its growth cycle. Choose a location that boasts well-drained soil and ample sunlight. Be gentle when handling the root-ball to avoid damage - a healthy start promotes robust growth!
care_scenes

More Info on Plumleaf Crab Apple Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

If in summer the plant is exposed to high temperatures or strong, direct light, you can set up a shading net for small tree seedlings. Be sure to provide adequate drainage for heavy rainy days. During high temperatures, increase watering frequency to protect plumleaf crab apple from dehydration, but do not water it at noon. Plumleaf crab apple is dormant in winter and has lower water requirements, hence, be careful to avoid overwatering.
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

more
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
more
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
more
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
more
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

more
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
more
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
more
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
more
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
more
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

more
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
more
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
more
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
more
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

more
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
more
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
more
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Plumleaf crab apple based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More About the Brown spot more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More About the Fruit withering more
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More About the Nutrient deficiencies more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Nutrient deficiencies
plant poor
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
  1. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
  2. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
  3. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
  4. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
  1. Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
  2. Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
  3. Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_more_info

More About Plumleaf Crab Apple

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
8 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
4 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 to 8 m
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why are the leaves of plumleaf crab apple turning yellow?

more more
There are many possible causes of yellowing leaves. First, check whether the plant is affected by environmental factors. Insufficient light, high temperatures, sun exposure, unsuitable soil, and lack of fertilizer or water can all cause plant leaves to yellow or wither. If the environment appears suitable, check whether the symptoms are caused by pests. Insect pests are the easiest to spot, indicated by traces such as insect bites and eggs, or the presence of insects themselves. If pests are not found, yellowing may be caused by a disease like root rot. The infected part of the plant needs to be removed and the cut should be quickly disinfected.

Why does plumleaf crab apple only grow leaves without flowers, or have only a few blooms?

more more
Non-flowering or scarce blooms are generally caused by a lack of plant nutrients. Fertilizer should be applied once during the spring leaf-spreading period to provide sufficient nutrition for flower buds. Be careful, however: applying too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause branches and leaves to grow too fast to bloom. During flower bud growth, apply some phosphorus potassium fertilizers to promote blossoming. Re-fertilization after flowering also helps flower buds develop and accumulate nutrients for blossoming in the coming year. Adequate sunlight, good ventilation, and proper watering are all necessary conditions for flowering. Additionally, the extra branches and leaves should be pruned regularly to ensure that more nutrients are distributed to reproduction and growth.

Why are leaves still withering despite sufficient watering?

more more
Withered leaves may not be caused by a lack of water. If the soil is moist but leaves are still dry, the problem may be pests. The affected and dry leaves need to be quickly removed and ventilation should be provided to the plant immediately. Eliminate pests by spraying the plant with broad-spectrum pesticides.
product icon close
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify grow and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
product icon close
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Lighting
close
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Plumleaf crab apple flourishes under a full day's exposure to sun, but can also tolerate slightly shaded conditions. Originating from environments rich in sunlight, its health and growth are optimized by abundant sun exposure. Overexposure can potentially cause leaf scorch, however, while inadequate light may weaken the plant and impair fruit production.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
icon
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Download the App
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
View more
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Plumleaf crab apple thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your plumleaf crab apple may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Plumleaf crab apple enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Plumleaf crab apple thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Temperature
close
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Plumleaf crab apple, a temperate woody plant, prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90℉ (0 to 32℃). It is native to areas with cool summers and cold winters, making it suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9. In warmer regions, plant in a location with afternoon shade and provide adequate water during the summer.
Regional wintering strategies
Plumleaf crab apple has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Plumleaf crab apple is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Plumleaf crab apple should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Transplant
close
How to Successfully Transplant Plumleaf Crab Apple?
The best season to transplant plumleaf crab apple is during its dormancy period, particularly from late fall to early spring (S3-S4), because this timing ensures minimal disruption to its growth cycle. Choose a location that boasts well-drained soil and ample sunlight. Be gentle when handling the root-ball to avoid damage - a healthy start promotes robust growth!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Plumleaf Crab Apple?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Plumleaf Crab Apple?
The perfect time to move plumleaf crab apple is in late fall to early winter. This season minimizes the stress involved in transplanting, giving roots time to establish before spring growth. Transplanting plumleaf crab apple now maximizes its year-round beauty and health, offering you a spectacular spring bloom. Remember, a little pre-work can lead to a very rewarding outcome!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Plumleaf Crab Apple Plants?
Start by readying the area where you'll be putting your plumleaf crab apples. You should space each plant 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) apart. This gives each one room to grow without crowding each other.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Plumleaf Crab Apple Transplanting?
For your plumleaf crab apple, prepare a well-draining soil, preferably sandy or loamy. Before planting, add a good base fertilizer to help nourish the plant. You can find a variety at your local garden store, just ask for a 'starter' fertilizer.
Where Should You Relocate Your Plumleaf Crab Apple?
When positioning your plumleaf crab apple, look for a sunny location. They definitely love sunlight! Just make sure they're not in a place that gets too intensely hot during the day. Partial sun should be just right.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Plumleaf Crab Apple?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel
To dig the hole at the new site and remove the plumleaf crab apple.
Trowel
Handy for precision work, such as detangling roots without causing additional stress to the plant.
Bucket or Wheelbarrow
To transport the plumleaf crab apple from the original location to the new site.
Gardening Scissors
To trim any unhealthy roots.
Watering Can
To water the plumleaf crab apple after transplanting.
Garden Hose
To keep the soil or potting medium moist during the transplanting process.
How Do You Remove Plumleaf Crab Apple from the Soil?
From Ground: Start by watering the plumleaf crab apple to moisten the soil around it. With a shovel, dig a generous circle around the plant, keeping a wide berth from the base of the plant to avoid harming the root system. Use a spade to gently raise the plant from its position, ensuring to keep the root ball intact.
From Pot: If the plant is in a container, water well before starting. Turn the pot sideways and gently pull out the plant by holding the base stem, keeping the root ball and soil as intact as possible.
From Seedling Tray: For younger plants, moisten the seedling tray then gently press from the bottom to push the plumleaf crab apple and its soil out, taking care not to damage the tender roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Plumleaf Crab Apple
Preparation
Prepare the new site for the plumleaf crab apple by digging a hole twice as wide as the root ball and as deep. Make sure this place has proper drainage to prevent water logging.
Setting the Plant
Place the plant in the hole, making sure it is at the same level as it was in the previous location, with the top of the roots just below the ground surface.
Filling the Hole
Backfill the hole with soil, ensuring no air pockets are left around the roots.
Watering
Generously water the plant to settle it into its new location and to eliminate any remaining air pockets.
Providing Support
Use supporting stakes if the plumleaf crab apple is unable to stand upright on its own after transplanting.
How Do You Care For Plumleaf Crab Apple After Transplanting?
Pruning
Trim the plumleaf crab apple lightly after transplanting to reduce the pressure on its root system while it attempts to establish itself.
Watering
Water regularly without overwatering, ensuring that the soil is consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Monitoring
Keep an eye out for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or yellowing leaves in the plumleaf crab apple. If you notice such signs, step up care and consider consulting a gardening specialist if conditions persist or worsen.
Protection
Protect the plumleaf crab apple from wind and harsh sunlight for a few days till it adjusts to the new surroundings. Use garden fabric, netting or light shade as needed.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Plumleaf Crab Apple Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant plumleaf crab apple?
The ideal season to move plumleaf crab apple is from late summer to early autumn (S3-S4). This gives the plant the best chance to establish before winter.
What is the ideal space to keep between plumleaf crab apple while transplanting?
For plumleaf crab apple, a good rule of thumb is to keep a distance of about 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters). This allows for adequate growth and air circulation.
Why is my newly transplanted plumleaf crab apple wilting?
Wilting post-transplant usually indicates shock. Make sure plumleaf crab apple is well watered and remember that it takes time for the roots to adapt to the new planting spot.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted plumleaf crab apple turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves may be a sign of water stress or nutrient deficiency. Make sure your plumleaf crab apple is getting enough water, but not too much. Supplement with a balanced fertilizer if necessary.
How deep should I dig the hole for transplanting plumleaf crab apple?
The hole should be two times wider and just as deep as the root ball of your plumleaf crab apple. This provides space for the roots to spread and grow.
What should I do if the roots of my plumleaf crab apple are circling the pot?
Tease apart the circling roots gently before planting, this helps plumleaf crab apple to establish faster in the new soil by redirecting the roots outward.
Can I transplant my plumleaf crab apple in the winter?
Transplanting plumleaf crab apple in winter is not ideal but it can be done if the ground is not frozen. However, late summer to early autumn (S3-S4) is the best transplanting time.
How to water my plumleaf crab apple after transplanting?
After transplanting, give plumleaf crab apple a good soak and maintain regular watering. The soil should be kept evenly moist but not waterlogged.
How to protect my transplanted plumleaf crab apple from pests and diseases?
Keep the area free from debris and observe regularly for signs of pests or diseases. Use organic or chemical treatments as needed. Healthy plumleaf crab apple are naturally more resistant.
Is it normal for plumleaf crab apple to drop leaves after transplanting?
It's common for plants like plumleaf crab apple to shed some leaves after being moved, due to transplant shock. Maintain proper watering and care, and new growth should appear in time.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Cookie Management Tool
In addition to managing cookies through your browser or device, you can change your cookie settings below.
Necessary Cookies
Necessary cookies enable core functionality. The website cannot function properly without these cookies, and can only be disabled by changing your browser preferences.
Analytical Cookies
Analytical cookies help us to improve our application/website by collecting and reporting information on its usage.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
_pta PictureThis Analytics We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_ga
Source
Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
This page looks better in the app
Open