You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Apple prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Apple
Apple is the most widely cultivated tree fruit around the globe. The three top apple-producing countries are China, the United States, and Poland with an economic impact of $3.55 billion in 2017. There are more than 7,500 known cultivars of apples throughout the world.

Symbolism
Good health, future happiness, temptation

Water
Every 1-2 weeks


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
Water the young tree regularly, like once a week. Adjust watering frequency by soil condition, season, and weather. Most established trees do not need extra water when there is adequate rainfall.
If the soil is particularly dry, more water is required. Completely saturate the soil each time. Water more during germination, blooming, and fruit-swelling times. Reduce watering in early summer when the flower buds differentiate. In rainy seasons, water less.


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What's the best method to water my Apple?
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What should I do if I water Apple too much/too little?
An overwatered Apple can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Apple recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Apple indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Apple outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Apple?
The Apple likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Apple generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Apple?
The Apple generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Apple is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Apple is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Apple continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Apple a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Apple according to different seasons or climates?
The Apple needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Apple to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Apple will need less water during the winter. Since the Apple will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Apple growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Apple can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Apple and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Apple’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Apple’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Apple in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Apple mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Apple in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Apple begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Apple important?
Watering the Apple helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Apple thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
Apply fertilizer to apple several times each year if you want to harvest tasty fruit. Apply 0.2% fast-release nitrogen fertilizer once before or after germination. Apply a liquid fertilizer every 10 days before summer using 200 times-diluted organic fertilizer, and supplement with 0.2% urea, 0.2% diamine, and 0.2% ammonium sulfate inorganic liquid fertilizer.
In summer, add fertilizer once as the fruit grows, and spray 0.3% urea on its leaves. When the fruits are about to ripen, apply 200 times-diluted organic liquid fertilizer once every 15 days. During early growth, use nitrogen fertilizer. When the fruits are about to ripen, use phosphate-potassium fertilizer. this promotes even coloring of the fruit and improves fruit quality.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Apple?
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Apple some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Apple?
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Apple energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.
You can continue to feed Apple during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Apple?
Avoid fertilizing Apple at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.
Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Apple should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Apple can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Apple need?
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.
Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.
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How do I fertilize my Apple?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Apple you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Apple, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a Apple should not be fertilized for the first few years.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Apple too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Apple may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Apple will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Apple to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
Apple prefers full sun and can only grow normally with sufficient sunlight. More than 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day is best. Insufficient sunlight causes softness of branches and leaves, poor resistance to diseases and pests, fewer flower buds, fewer blooms and fruits, slow root growth, low sugar content and dim color of fruits, etc.


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How much/long should Apple get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Apple receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Apple need?
Apple does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Apple? How to protect Apple from the sun and heat damage?
Apple planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Apple during extreme weather events.
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Does Apple need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Apple from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Apple, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Apple to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Apple gets inadequate sunlight?
When Apple receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Apple receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Apple need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Apple and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Apple fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Apple?
Recently transplanted Apple will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Apple drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Apple that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Apple can be pruned according to your preference. Make sure the remaining branches do not shade each other too much. Remove poorly developed, diseased, and pest-affected branches, and leave healthy and robust branches. Prune too-dense branches and fruits to ensure ventilation and sunlight transmission. this not only improves nutrition to the fruit, lets the fruit receive sunlight evenly, and improves its color, but also guarantees the stability of the crown structure.

Do I need to prune my Apple?
Unkempt, wild Apple have a hard time bearing fruit, and for good reason. When Apple isn’t pruned, they have issues ranging from sunlight, weight distribution, and even fungi and other pests. Pruning does a lot to help remedy these issues, as well as to provide for the aesthetic appeal of the trees themselves. Pruning is also a basic necessity surrounding the general growth of Apple. If Apple get too large, they begin to fall apart fairly quickly. Losing branches to weight distribution issues can be fatal for Apple, especially those in drier climates. Pruning helps to reaffirm the crown’s structure and provide support to key branches.
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When should I prune my Apple?
Apple should be pruned in the late winter, when there are no signs of any new growth yet. During this time, Apple is dormant, and therefore can sustain itself better without extra growth to maintain. During this time, you can cut away the branches that are most cumbersome. During the summer months, when new growth shoots are sprouting up every which way, lots of the green shoots will need to be trimmed. While some of them may prove to be useful, most of the weak and thin branches that come out before fruiting season will need to be cut away in order to produce better fruit on established branches.
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How can I prune my Apple?
In order to properly prune the Apple, you need a basic set of tools and skills. Fortunately, most of the Apple are pruned more or less the same; for this reason, getting the hang of Apple pruning is fairly easy and time-efficient. It boils down to timing, selection, and methodology. Tools Before you start cutting away at your Apple, first determine which kind of tools you’re working with. Most of the Apple can be pruned with hand shears or loppers, but some may require a pole saw (for extra tall or hard-to-reach areas). Don’t neglect the open wounds where you prune, either; larger cuts should be covered with honey or pine sap to help deter common Apple diseases and pests. How to Prune To prune the Apple, you’ll need your shears to be clean and sharp. Disinfect them with either warm, soapy water or a disinfectant like rubbing alcohol to remove any possible pathogens that may be hitching a ride on the surface of your shears. This is the first and easiest step to prevent plant infections from spreading. Then, you can start to cut away branches. First, trim away any obviously dead, dying or diseased branches. After that, trim off those grows upward towards the top of the crown or downward towards the ground. These branches will grow to become a nuisance, and restrict both airflow and sunlight to the inner branches where fruit will suffocate. Remove any suckers that grow from the base of the trunk, as well. Try to leave larger branches and remove smaller ones that cross over or intercept larger branches in any way. Instead of shortening branches, remove entire branches from their bases so that they won’t continue to grow in the way. Use pine sap or honey to close off wounds where branches have been cut to help the tree heal faster.
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What should I do after pruning my Apple?
Check the tree to be sure that you have pruned away any branches that might grow into an issue in the future. Snip away any excess stragglers that you may have missed, then be sure to remove all of the fallen debris from the tree’s area to prevent undergrowth from taking over. It’s a good idea to use gloves, as Apple bark can be rough in places.
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How can I train my Apple seedling?
To train the Apple from a seedling size into a mature tree, you’ll need to plan out which branches to keep and which to lose in order to maintain a good balance of branches that stem up and out at an angle of at least 45 degrees. Trim away any branches that grow vertically in any direction as the seedling grows. Branches that grow horizontally will produce more fruits, while those that grow vertically will not carry much fruit and will impede the growth of important branches. Over time, the branches you choose in the beginning will grow up to become key branches that support most of the tree’s fruiting and further branching efforts! Also to note is that some of the Apple may split down the road if they’re not properly trained as seedlings. If there is a “Y” division early on, it’s best to choose the thicker side of the split to keep, then cut away the thinner side of the split back to the base.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Apple is resistant to cold and requires little water. It prefers dry and cold climates and dislikes wet, hot environments. It can adapt to temperatures down to -34 ℃, though its optimum temperature range is between 13 to 25 ℃. It can deal with heat up to 40 ℃. It copes with drought more easily than accumulated water.

What is the optimal temperature for Apple?
The best temperature for Apple to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Apple during different growing phases?
Research shows that Apple will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Apple warm in cold seasons?
Apple can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Apple suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Apple if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Apple gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Apple gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Apple?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Apple healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Apple warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Apple, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Apple with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Apple in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Apple is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Apple from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Apple extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Apple in different seasons?
Apple is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Apple?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Apple in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
Apple likes fertile, thick, well-drained culture medium rich in organic matter with a soil pH between 5.3-7.6. Garden soil, river sand, decomposed sheep manure, rotten leaves, and fermentation fertilizer can be mixed at the proportion of 6:2:1:1:1. The root system generally develops quickly, so the tree grows rapidly.


Planting
Planting is usually done in mid-spring on a warm day. Select a healthy, robust, disease-free seedling with plump buds. Keep the diameter and depth of the underground part around 76 cm for both potting and open field planting.
Soak the roots for several hours if they are dried out. Put a small amount of prepared culture soil at the bottom of the pit or basin, place the seedling, and cover the pit or basin with more culture soil. Water immediately after planting to ensure the survival rate of the seedling.


Transplanting
For optimal results, transplant apple during the delightful season of late spring to mid-summer, as warmer temperatures promote healthy growth. Ensure a sunny location with well-drained soil, and gently loosen the root ball before transplanting for optimal establishment.


More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Pollination, etc.

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
For Apple, originating from warm climates, it prefers well-draining soil and moderate watering, particularly during its growing season. Be cautious not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry.
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Lighting
Full sun
Apple thrives under ample sun exposure but can also manage with moderate light levels. The abundance of light aids in healthy growth and development. Also, different stages of growth might have varying light demands. An excess or deficiency of light may affect the plant's health. Finally, its original environment aligns naturally with these light conditions.

Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
The apple apple is native to temperate regions, which means it prefers cooler temperatures. Its preferred temperature range is from 32 to 95 ℉ (0 to 35 ℃). In different seasons, the apple tree should be adjusted to different temperatures. For example, in the spring, the tree should be exposed to cooler temperatures to encourage flowering while in the summer, trees do better in slightly warmer conditions.

Transplant
10-30 feet
For optimal results, transplant apple during the delightful season of late spring to mid-summer, as warmer temperatures promote healthy growth. Ensure a sunny location with well-drained soil, and gently loosen the root ball before transplanting for optimal establishment.

Pollination
Normal
Apple entices pollinators like bees and moths through their vivid blossoms and sweet nectar. Adopting cross-pollination, these plants rely heavily on these visitors for pollination, which usually takes place during Spring, when the plant is in full bloom. The pollinators' interaction with the stamens allows for the transfer of pollen to the stigma, facilitating successful fertilization.



Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.

2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.

3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.

4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.

2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.

3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.

4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.

5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.

2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.

3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.

4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.

2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.

3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Apple based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Apple

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
4.5 to 9 m

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Pink

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
3 to 4 cm

Plant Height
2 to 15 m
Name story
Paradise apple
In the past, all foreign fruits including nuts were called apple. After the widespread of the story of Adam and Eve, the name, Apple was then solely referred to Malus pumila. In mythology, this plant was also believed to exist only in heaven which meant that Adam and Eve had stolen the forbidden fruit. So, it was always called Paradise apple.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Removes acne and whitens. Usage: make tea with apple flower, rose, and orange flower, with a unique taste.
Garden Use
Apple is an ornamental tree that produces edible fruits. The fruit on this tree contains toxic seeds and possibly toxic leaves, while the fruit flesh itself is non-toxic. The tree produces showy, fragrant flowers, good for cut flower arrangements. Many apple trees are cultivated as dwarf apple trees for the home gardener’s personal use.

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Common Problems
Why does my apple grow well but bear few fruits?


Apple fruits stably 1-2 years after planting. In older trees, check whether the tree needs artificial pollination. If the tree you choose is not a self-pollinating variety, you must pollinate it during its blooming period. If excessive nitrogen fertilizer is applied to seedlings, the plant may grow well but develop few flower buds. Apply phosphate-potassium fertilizer when the tree starts to bear to improve the quality of the fruits.
Why does the tree bloom a lot but produce few fruits?


Firstly, check for pests and diseases, and prevent and control them as early as possible. Secondly, check whether the tree is successfully pollinated. If it is successfully pollinated and many flowers and fruits still fall off, there could be a nutrient deficiency. Prune excessive flowers and fruits and apply phosphate-potassium fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied as seldom as possible.
Why are the fruits uneven in color?


Unevenly-colored apples are caused by pests and diseases or uneven sunlight exposure. Get rid of pests and diseases, and expose your apple to even sunlight. Prune branches to ensure good ventilation and sunlight transmission to the crown. In this way, fruits enjoy sunlight evenly, improving the quality of the fruits.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Fruits
1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Apple

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

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Apple

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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Basic Care
Advanced Care
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Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
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FAQ
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How to Care for Apple
Apple is the most widely cultivated tree fruit around the globe. The three top apple-producing countries are China, the United States, and Poland with an economic impact of $3.55 billion in 2017. There are more than 7,500 known cultivars of apples throughout the world.

Symbolism
Good health, future happiness, temptation

Every 1-2 weeks
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Water the young tree regularly, like once a week. Adjust watering frequency by soil condition, season, and weather. Most established trees do not need extra water when there is adequate rainfall.
If the soil is particularly dry, more water is required. Completely saturate the soil each time. Water more during germination, blooming, and fruit-swelling times. Reduce watering in early summer when the flower buds differentiate. In rainy seasons, water less.

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Fertilizer

Apply fertilizer to apple several times each year if you want to harvest tasty fruit. Apply 0.2% fast-release nitrogen fertilizer once before or after germination. Apply a liquid fertilizer every 10 days before summer using 200 times-diluted organic fertilizer, and supplement with 0.2% urea, 0.2% diamine, and 0.2% ammonium sulfate inorganic liquid fertilizer.
In summer, add fertilizer once as the fruit grows, and spray 0.3% urea on its leaves. When the fruits are about to ripen, apply 200 times-diluted organic liquid fertilizer once every 15 days. During early growth, use nitrogen fertilizer. When the fruits are about to ripen, use phosphate-potassium fertilizer. this promotes even coloring of the fruit and improves fruit quality.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Apple?

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When should I avoid fertilizing my Apple?

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Sunlight

Apple prefers full sun and can only grow normally with sufficient sunlight. More than 6 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day is best. Insufficient sunlight causes softness of branches and leaves, poor resistance to diseases and pests, fewer flower buds, fewer blooms and fruits, slow root growth, low sugar content and dim color of fruits, etc.

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Pruning

Apple can be pruned according to your preference. Make sure the remaining branches do not shade each other too much. Remove poorly developed, diseased, and pest-affected branches, and leave healthy and robust branches. Prune too-dense branches and fruits to ensure ventilation and sunlight transmission. this not only improves nutrition to the fruit, lets the fruit receive sunlight evenly, and improves its color, but also guarantees the stability of the crown structure.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Apple is resistant to cold and requires little water. It prefers dry and cold climates and dislikes wet, hot environments. It can adapt to temperatures down to -34 ℃, though its optimum temperature range is between 13 to 25 ℃. It can deal with heat up to 40 ℃. It copes with drought more easily than accumulated water.
What is the optimal temperature for Apple?

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How can I keep Apple warm in cold seasons?

What damage will Apple suffer if the temperature is too high/low?

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Soil

Apple likes fertile, thick, well-drained culture medium rich in organic matter with a soil pH between 5.3-7.6. Garden soil, river sand, decomposed sheep manure, rotten leaves, and fermentation fertilizer can be mixed at the proportion of 6:2:1:1:1. The root system generally develops quickly, so the tree grows rapidly.

Planting

Planting is usually done in mid-spring on a warm day. Select a healthy, robust, disease-free seedling with plump buds. Keep the diameter and depth of the underground part around 76 cm for both potting and open field planting.
Soak the roots for several hours if they are dried out. Put a small amount of prepared culture soil at the bottom of the pit or basin, place the seedling, and cover the pit or basin with more culture soil. Water immediately after planting to ensure the survival rate of the seedling.

Transplanting

For optimal results, transplant apple during the delightful season of late spring to mid-summer, as warmer temperatures promote healthy growth. Ensure a sunny location with well-drained soil, and gently loosen the root ball before transplanting for optimal establishment.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.

2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.

3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.

4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.

2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.

3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.

4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.

5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.

2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.

3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.

4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.

2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.

3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Apple based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Fruit withering



Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More

Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More

Sap-sucking insects



Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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More About Apple

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
4.5 to 9 m

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Pink

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
3 to 4 cm

Plant Height
2 to 15 m
Name story
Paradise apple
In the past, all foreign fruits including nuts were called apple. After the widespread of the story of Adam and Eve, the name, Apple was then solely referred to Malus pumila. In mythology, this plant was also believed to exist only in heaven which meant that Adam and Eve had stolen the forbidden fruit. So, it was always called Paradise apple.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Removes acne and whitens. Usage: make tea with apple flower, rose, and orange flower, with a unique taste.
Garden Use
Apple is an ornamental tree that produces edible fruits. The fruit on this tree contains toxic seeds and possibly toxic leaves, while the fruit flesh itself is non-toxic. The tree produces showy, fragrant flowers, good for cut flower arrangements. Many apple trees are cultivated as dwarf apple trees for the home gardener’s personal use.

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Common Problems
Why does my apple grow well but bear few fruits?


Apple fruits stably 1-2 years after planting. In older trees, check whether the tree needs artificial pollination. If the tree you choose is not a self-pollinating variety, you must pollinate it during its blooming period. If excessive nitrogen fertilizer is applied to seedlings, the plant may grow well but develop few flower buds. Apply phosphate-potassium fertilizer when the tree starts to bear to improve the quality of the fruits.
Why does the tree bloom a lot but produce few fruits?


Firstly, check for pests and diseases, and prevent and control them as early as possible. Secondly, check whether the tree is successfully pollinated. If it is successfully pollinated and many flowers and fruits still fall off, there could be a nutrient deficiency. Prune excessive flowers and fruits and apply phosphate-potassium fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied as seldom as possible.
Why are the fruits uneven in color?


Unevenly-colored apples are caused by pests and diseases or uneven sunlight exposure. Get rid of pests and diseases, and expose your apple to even sunlight. Prune branches to ensure good ventilation and sunlight transmission to the crown. In this way, fruits enjoy sunlight evenly, improving the quality of the fruits.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Fruits
Branches
Stems
Leaves















Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
For Apple, originating from warm climates, it prefers well-draining soil and moderate watering, particularly during its growing season. Be cautious not to overwater as it can lead to root rot. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry.

Notes
During flowering, maintain moist soil to prevent flower drop. Same during fruiting. Avoid sudden watering after dryness to prevent fruit cracking and excess moisture leading to fruit drop.
More

Watering check today
More

Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Apple, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Apple is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves

When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop

When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew

Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Apple is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage

Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems

Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Apple thrives under ample sun exposure but can also manage with moderate light levels. The abundance of light aids in healthy growth and development. Also, different stages of growth might have varying light demands. An excess or deficiency of light may affect the plant's health. Finally, its original environment aligns naturally with these light conditions.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Apple thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your apple may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Apple enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Apple thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
The apple apple is native to temperate regions, which means it prefers cooler temperatures. Its preferred temperature range is from 32 to 95 ℉ (0 to 35 ℃). In different seasons, the apple tree should be adjusted to different temperatures. For example, in the spring, the tree should be exposed to cooler temperatures to encourage flowering while in the summer, trees do better in slightly warmer conditions.

Regional wintering strategies
Apple has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Apple is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Apple should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant

How to Successfully Transplant Apple?
For optimal results, transplant apple during the delightful season of late spring to mid-summer, as warmer temperatures promote healthy growth. Ensure a sunny location with well-drained soil, and gently loosen the root ball before transplanting for optimal establishment.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Apple?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Apple?

The perfect moment to transplant apple is during the delightful period between late spring and midsummer, as it allows the plant to establish strong roots before winter. Your garden will truly thrive and reward you with vibrant blossoms by planting apple during this flourishing season!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Apple Plants?

When transplanting apple, make sure to space them about 10-30 feet (3-9 meters) apart. This will ensure enough room for growth and good air circulation, preventing the plants from competing for nutrients and water.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Apple Transplanting?

For apple, prepare a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0-6.5. Incorporate compost or manure into the soil to improve fertility. A balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 (N-P-K), can be applied as a base fertilizer to support healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Apple?

Choose a location with full sun exposure for apple, as they prefer at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Ensure the area has ample space for mature trees and protection from strong winds to promote proper growth and fruiting.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Apple?
Gardening Gloves

To protect your hands while working with the soil and apple plant.
Shovel or Spade

To dig holes and trenches for transplanting the apple.
Garden Fork or Hand Trowel

For loosening the soil and working around the roots of the plant.
Watering Can or Hose

To water the apple during the transplant process.
Pruning Shears

To trim any damaged or diseased branches on the apple before transplanting.
Garden Ruler or Measuring Tape

To ensure the plant is placed at the proper depth and spacing.
How Do You Remove Apple from the Soil?
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your apple plant to grow to its mature size.
Loosen the soil in the planting area to a depth of at least 12-18 inches using a garden fork or hand trowel. Incorporate organic matter if needed to improve soil structure and fertility.
Use a shovel or spade to dig a hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of your apple plant.
Gently lower the apple into the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Spread out the roots to encourage outward growth.
Backfill the hole with soil, gently firming it down around the root ball to eliminate air pockets, without compacting the soil too much.
Water the apple thoroughly after planting, making sure the soil is evenly moist to help establish strong roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Apple
Step1 Site Selection

Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your apple plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Soil Preparation

Loosen the soil in the planting area to a depth of at least 12-18 inches using a garden fork or hand trowel. Incorporate organic matter if needed to improve soil structure and fertility.
Step3 Digging the Hole

Use a shovel or spade to dig a hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of your apple plant.
Step4 Placing the Plant

Gently lower the apple into the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Spread out the roots to encourage outward growth.
Step5 Filling the Hole

Backfill the hole with soil, gently firming it down around the root ball to eliminate air pockets, without compacting the soil too much.
Step6 Watering

Water the apple thoroughly after planting, making sure the soil is evenly moist to help establish strong roots.
How Do You Care For Apple After Transplanting?
Watering

Keep the soil around the apple consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Mulching

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or compost, around the base of the apple to help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature.
Pruning

Regularly inspect the apple for damaged or diseased branches and remove them using pruning shears to maintain the plant's health.
Fertilizing

After the apple has settled into its new location and begun to show signs of new growth, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer according to the product's recommended application rates.
Pest and Disease Management

Regularly inspect the apple for signs of pests or diseases. Take appropriate action as necessary, such as using insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil for pest control.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Apple Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant apple?

The ideal time to transplant apple is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing.
What is the optimal spacing for transplanting apple?

When transplanting apple, maintain a spacing of 10-30 feet (3-9 meters) for healthy growth and development.
How deep should I plant apple during transplanting?

Plant the root ball of apple at the same depth it was previously growing, ensuring the graft union is above soil level.
How do I prepare the soil for transplanting apple?

Start by breaking up the soil in the planting area, then mix in organic matter like compost for improved drainage.
How much water is needed after transplanting apple?

Water apple thoroughly after transplanting, then provide consistent moisture, avoiding overwatering to prevent root rot.
How can I protect apple from temperature stress during transplanting?

Choose a cloudy day to transplant, or use shade cloth to protect apple from direct sunlight and temperature changes.
What steps should I take to prevent transplant shock in apple?

Keep the root ball moist, avoid damaging roots, and gently loosen them before planting to prevent transplant shock.
How to identify if apple is ready for transplanting?

When apple has an established root system and new growth, it's ready for transplanting, usually within 2-3 years.
Do I need to prune apple when transplanting?

Prune any damaged or dead branches and trim back excessive growth to promote balanced growth after transplanting.
What type of support should I provide apple after transplanting?

Insert a stake in the ground and gently tie apple to it for support, especially in windy or storm-prone areas.

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