To water Cheeseweed mallow, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Cheeseweed mallow is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Cheeseweed mallow as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Cheeseweed mallow that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Cheeseweed mallow, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Cheeseweed Mallow
Cheeseweed mallow (Malva parviflora) is a plant species native to Europe, Asia, and Northern Africa. Cheeseweed mallow has a variety of other common names including Egyptian mallow, marshmallow, small-flowered mallow, and mallow. This species is naturalized in many places.

Symbolism
Sweet disposition

Water
Every week


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
The cheeseweed mallow is a fairly drought-tolerant plant once fully established. Weekly watering is required only during its first year. After this, your watering regime can be reduced to once every 10-14 days. Alternatively, water an established cheeseweed mallow only during its growth and flowering periods when the rain doesn't provide 2.5 cm of water a week. The more water you provide, the lusher the leaves will be.


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What is the best way to water my Cheeseweed mallow?
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What should I do if I water my Cheeseweed mallow too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Cheeseweed mallow is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Cheeseweed mallow is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Cheeseweed mallow that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Cheeseweed mallow, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Cheeseweed mallow?
Cheeseweed mallow needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Cheeseweed mallow. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Cheeseweed mallow grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Cheeseweed mallow that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Cheeseweed mallow a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Cheeseweed mallow need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Cheeseweed mallow. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Cheeseweed mallow. Typically, you should give your Cheeseweed mallow about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Cheeseweed mallow in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Cheeseweed mallow enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Cheeseweed mallow. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Cheeseweed mallow are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Cheeseweed mallow may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Cheeseweed mallow as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Cheeseweed mallow through the seasons?
You can expect your Cheeseweed mallow’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Cheeseweed mallow, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Cheeseweed mallow that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Cheeseweed mallow is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Cheeseweed mallow at different growth stages?
Cheeseweed mallow will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Cheeseweed mallow as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Cheeseweed mallow will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Cheeseweed mallow will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Cheeseweed mallow indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Cheeseweed mallow grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Cheeseweed mallow needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Cheeseweed mallow water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Fertilizer
The hardy cheeseweed mallow will benefit greatly from an annual fertilizing. Feed with a quality, slow-release fertilizer in late winter or early spring. A well-balanced fertilizer, with an N:P:K ratio of 10:10:10, is a good choice. Water generously after fertilizing. Alternatively, a natural organic plant food can be added. You can also mix some organic compost into the soil when planting your cheeseweed mallow to enrich it and regulate drainage.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow?
All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Cheeseweed mallow, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes.
Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Cheeseweed mallow to get enough nitrogen from the soil, which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Cheeseweed mallow with a source of nitrogen.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow?
Cheeseweed mallow generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Cheeseweed mallow about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients.
You’ll know when to start fertilizing Cheeseweed mallow if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Cheeseweed mallow is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Cheeseweed mallow?
Never fertilize your Cheeseweed mallow if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants.
Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.
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What type of fertilizer does my Cheeseweed mallow need?
Fertilizers contain high levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, along with other essential nutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. These are all necessary elements that promote growth in Cheeseweed mallow.
A balanced fertilizer works well for Cheeseweed mallow, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Cheeseweed mallow. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant.
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How do I fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow?
Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Cheeseweed mallow. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant.
Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil.
Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Cheeseweed mallow, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Cheeseweed mallow and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow too much?
Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves.
Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Cheeseweed mallow. If the Cheeseweed mallow is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly.
If your Cheeseweed mallow is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.
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Sunlight
The cheeseweed mallow generally requires full sun exposure. It may thrive under partial shade, but this will negatively reflect on its blooms. A plant that is shaded will produce fewer flowers, so try to provide at least six hours of full sun a day. If provided with enough sunlight, your cheeseweed mallow will not need to be staked.


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How much sunlight should Cheeseweed mallow get per day to grow healthily?
You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Cheeseweed mallow needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.
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What type of sunlight does Cheeseweed mallow need?
The Cheeseweed mallow grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months.
They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Cheeseweed mallow is always exposed to the sun.
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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Cheeseweed mallow from sun and heat damage?
When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Cheeseweed mallow can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter.
If the Cheeseweed mallow is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers.
It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Cheeseweed mallow is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.
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Should I protect Cheeseweed mallow from sun exposure?
The Cheeseweed mallow does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall.
Growing the Cheeseweed mallow in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.
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What will happen if Cheeseweed mallow gets inadequate sunlight?
When the Cheeseweed mallow does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade.
Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones.
The Cheeseweed mallow indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.
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Does Cheeseweed mallow need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
When the Cheeseweed mallow is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.
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How much light does Cheeseweed mallow need for photosynthesis?
During summer or late spring, the Cheeseweed mallow needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Cheeseweed mallow is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Cheeseweed mallow?
When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Cheeseweed mallow to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day.
Make sure that the Cheeseweed mallow receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.
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Pruning
The cheeseweed mallow, especially the bushier varieties, benefits from occasional pruning. Trimming should be done in late winter or early spring when the frosts have passed. If freshly pruned plant tissue is exposed to freezing temperatures, it can be damaged by frostbite. Trim the shoots down to the first set of leaves, which will stimulate new and healthy dense growth. Use clean, sharp shears and always disinfect your tools in between the cuts to reduce the chances of possible cross-contamination.

Is pruning necessary for my Cheeseweed mallow?
Cheeseweed mallow is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Cheeseweed mallow to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Cheeseweed mallow?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Cheeseweed mallow above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Cheeseweed mallow?
Cheeseweed mallow leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Cheeseweed mallow?
- Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
- Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
- Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Cheeseweed mallow?
Expect to prune your Cheeseweed mallow every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Cheeseweed mallow in different seasons?
Because Cheeseweed mallow is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
The cheeseweed mallow can grow under a broad range of temperature conditions, with bushier varieties usually able to handle warmer temperatures. this is a hardy plant, able to withstand a winter that drops down to -40 ℃. Some varieties, like the Tree cheeseweed mallow, can handle drought well once established, and will burst back into life when the rains return.

What is the optimal temperature for Cheeseweed mallow?
The best temperature for Cheeseweed mallow depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Cheeseweed mallow has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Cheeseweed mallow may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Cheeseweed mallow will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Cheeseweed mallow. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Cheeseweed mallow to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Cheeseweed mallow
If this is the first year of your Cheeseweed mallow outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Cheeseweed mallow, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Cheeseweed mallow inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Cheeseweed mallow in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Cheeseweed mallow should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Cheeseweed mallow from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Cheeseweed mallow from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Cheeseweed mallow in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Cheeseweed mallow is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Cheeseweed mallow to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Cheeseweed mallow
During the cold winter months, Cheeseweed mallow needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Cheeseweed mallow, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Cheeseweed mallow. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Cheeseweed mallow will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
The cheeseweed mallow is not picky about its growing substrate. It can handle both clay and sandy soils and will adapt to most gardens. It doesn't necessarily require rich organic soils, and fertilizers are not a must. It will grow in neutral soil, but most will thrive if the soil pH is around 7.0.


Planting
plant your cheeseweed mallow in late summer or early fall. If planting in pots or in the garden, mix in some organic compost to regulate water retention. The cheeseweed mallow is easily grown from seed. Choose a location that provides well-draining but moist soil and full sun. Sow shallow, cover the seed with a light soil layer, and keep the substrate constantly moist until germination. Pinch back new-growth tips when they reach about 30 cm to stimulate more compact growth.


More About How-Tos

Water
Every week
The cheeseweed mallow prefers a moderately moist environment, but can tolerate some dryness. It comes from habitats with well-drained soil, so ensure proper drainage to prevent waterlogging. Seasonal adjustments may include reducing watering during winter months.

Lighting
Full sun
Cheeseweed mallow needs plentiful exposure to the sun for optimal growth, having natural propensity for habitats where it can soak up ample solar rays. It also demonstrates adaptability, enduring regions with lesser sunlight access. Extremes of light deprivation can inhibit its growth, and overexposure can lead to depletion of plant health and vitality.

Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Cheeseweed mallow is native to temperate environments where the ideal temperature ranges from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). While it can adapt to lower temperatures, optimal growth is achieved within this preferred range. Adjustments may be necessary during colder seasons to ensure the plant's health.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.

2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.

3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cheeseweed mallow based on 10 million real cases



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Cheeseweed Mallow

Plant Type
Herb

Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple

Leaf Color
Green
Blue

Flower Size
5 to 6 mm

Plant Height
50 cm
Name story
Cheeseweed mallow
The schizocarps of the Malva parviflora remind people of a sliced wheel of cheese. This is probably the reason why this plant is best known by the names of Cheeseweed and Cheeseweed Mallow.
Usages
Garden Use
Like some of its cousin mallows, cheeseweed mallow is a very tough, prolific flowering herb which is planted for its looks and adaptability to different soils and conditions. It can be used like any other flowering plant in the garden, but does especially well in Mediterranean and desert gardens. Because it is so prolific, it is often grown in a contained area such as a bordered bed or a planter.

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Common Problems
My common cheeseweed mallow is turning brown. Why is this happening?


this is probably the result of heat stress. Even though the cheeseweed mallow is relatively drought-tolerant, prolonged hot periods may damage it. Prune back the dying stems to the first flower row and water generously.
My cheeseweed mallow has yellowing leaves and only a few blooms, what can I do?


It sounds like your cheeseweed mallow is lacking in sunlight. Remember that the cheeseweed mallow needs full sun exposure and at least six hours of it. If possible, move the plant to a more suitable position and mix in some organic compost with the soil, to give it a little boost and help it to regain its vigor.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Herb

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Loam, Sandy loam
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.

2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2

Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Cheeseweed Mallow

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.

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Cheeseweed Mallow

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care





How to Care for Cheeseweed Mallow
Cheeseweed mallow (Malva parviflora) is a plant species native to Europe, Asia, and Northern Africa. Cheeseweed mallow has a variety of other common names including Egyptian mallow, marshmallow, small-flowered mallow, and mallow. This species is naturalized in many places.

Symbolism
Sweet disposition

Every week
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

The cheeseweed mallow is a fairly drought-tolerant plant once fully established. Weekly watering is required only during its first year. After this, your watering regime can be reduced to once every 10-14 days. Alternatively, water an established cheeseweed mallow only during its growth and flowering periods when the rain doesn't provide 2.5 cm of water a week. The more water you provide, the lusher the leaves will be.

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What is the best way to water my Cheeseweed mallow?

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How much water does my Cheeseweed mallow need?

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Fertilizer

The hardy cheeseweed mallow will benefit greatly from an annual fertilizing. Feed with a quality, slow-release fertilizer in late winter or early spring. A well-balanced fertilizer, with an N:P:K ratio of 10:10:10, is a good choice. Water generously after fertilizing. Alternatively, a natural organic plant food can be added. You can also mix some organic compost into the soil when planting your cheeseweed mallow to enrich it and regulate drainage.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow?

When is the best time to fertilize my Cheeseweed mallow?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Cheeseweed mallow?

What type of fertilizer does my Cheeseweed mallow need?

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Sunlight

The cheeseweed mallow generally requires full sun exposure. It may thrive under partial shade, but this will negatively reflect on its blooms. A plant that is shaded will produce fewer flowers, so try to provide at least six hours of full sun a day. If provided with enough sunlight, your cheeseweed mallow will not need to be staked.

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How much sunlight should Cheeseweed mallow get per day to grow healthily?

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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Cheeseweed mallow from sun and heat damage?

Should I protect Cheeseweed mallow from sun exposure?

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Pruning

The cheeseweed mallow, especially the bushier varieties, benefits from occasional pruning. Trimming should be done in late winter or early spring when the frosts have passed. If freshly pruned plant tissue is exposed to freezing temperatures, it can be damaged by frostbite. Trim the shoots down to the first set of leaves, which will stimulate new and healthy dense growth. Use clean, sharp shears and always disinfect your tools in between the cuts to reduce the chances of possible cross-contamination.
Is pruning necessary for my Cheeseweed mallow?

How do I prune my Cheeseweed mallow?

Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Cheeseweed mallow?

Are there any tips for pruning my Cheeseweed mallow?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

The cheeseweed mallow can grow under a broad range of temperature conditions, with bushier varieties usually able to handle warmer temperatures. this is a hardy plant, able to withstand a winter that drops down to -40 ℃. Some varieties, like the Tree cheeseweed mallow, can handle drought well once established, and will burst back into life when the rains return.
What is the optimal temperature for Cheeseweed mallow?

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Cheeseweed mallow

How can I protect Cheeseweed mallow from extreme temperatures?

Dormant season temperature recommendations for Cheeseweed mallow

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Soil

The cheeseweed mallow is not picky about its growing substrate. It can handle both clay and sandy soils and will adapt to most gardens. It doesn't necessarily require rich organic soils, and fertilizers are not a must. It will grow in neutral soil, but most will thrive if the soil pH is around 7.0.

Planting

plant your cheeseweed mallow in late summer or early fall. If planting in pots or in the garden, mix in some organic compost to regulate water retention. The cheeseweed mallow is easily grown from seed. Choose a location that provides well-draining but moist soil and full sun. Sow shallow, cover the seed with a light soil layer, and keep the substrate constantly moist until germination. Pinch back new-growth tips when they reach about 30 cm to stimulate more compact growth.

More About How-Tos

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Annuals like this plant require some care in the spring to promote healthy growth and encourage summer blooming.

1
Depending on the climate, annuals may require daily watering after spring planting. A good rule to follow is to water whenever the top layer of soil begins drying out.

2
Adding fertilizer to the soil will help promote healthy growth. Use a balanced, all-purpose plant food monthly in the spring.

3
After sowing the seeds, place any container plants in a sunny location. If planting in the garden, ensure the area receives plenty of sunlight.
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
Continue to care for your plant by watering, and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your plant moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, then deadhead those spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Cheeseweed mallow based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles



Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More

Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More

Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More


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AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.



Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.

Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.

Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Cheeseweed Mallow

Plant Type
Herb

Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall, Mid fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple

Leaf Color
Green
Blue

Flower Size
5 to 6 mm

Plant Height
50 cm
Name story
Cheeseweed mallow
The schizocarps of the Malva parviflora remind people of a sliced wheel of cheese. This is probably the reason why this plant is best known by the names of Cheeseweed and Cheeseweed Mallow.
Usages
Garden Use
Like some of its cousin mallows, cheeseweed mallow is a very tough, prolific flowering herb which is planted for its looks and adaptability to different soils and conditions. It can be used like any other flowering plant in the garden, but does especially well in Mediterranean and desert gardens. Because it is so prolific, it is often grown in a contained area such as a bordered bed or a planter.

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Common Problems
My common cheeseweed mallow is turning brown. Why is this happening?


this is probably the result of heat stress. Even though the cheeseweed mallow is relatively drought-tolerant, prolonged hot periods may damage it. Prune back the dying stems to the first flower row and water generously.
My cheeseweed mallow has yellowing leaves and only a few blooms, what can I do?


It sounds like your cheeseweed mallow is lacking in sunlight. Remember that the cheeseweed mallow needs full sun exposure and at least six hours of it. If possible, move the plant to a more suitable position and mix in some organic compost with the soil, to give it a little boost and help it to regain its vigor.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Herb

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves





Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Loam, Sandy loam
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.

2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2

Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
The cheeseweed mallow prefers a moderately moist environment, but can tolerate some dryness. It comes from habitats with well-drained soil, so ensure proper drainage to prevent waterlogging. Seasonal adjustments may include reducing watering during winter months.
Watering check today
More

Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every week
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Cheeseweed mallow, outdoor watering can be done using the method of sprinkling. It is a simple and direct approach. It involves pouring water onto the soil around the plant, allowing the water to naturally seep into the root zone. Typically, containers such as watering cans, buckets, or watering jugs are used for sprinkling. Depending on the size of the plant, usually, 1-2 gallons of water are required to ensure the soil around the roots is thoroughly moistened.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Cheeseweed mallow is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots

Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems

Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Cheeseweed mallow is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling

Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases

Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Cheeseweed mallow needs plentiful exposure to the sun for optimal growth, having natural propensity for habitats where it can soak up ample solar rays. It also demonstrates adaptability, enduring regions with lesser sunlight access. Extremes of light deprivation can inhibit its growth, and overexposure can lead to depletion of plant health and vitality.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Cheeseweed mallow, a plant that thrives in full sunlight, is commonly grown outdoors with ample sunlight. When cultivated indoors with inadequate light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your cheeseweed mallow may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Cheeseweed mallow enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Cheeseweed mallow thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
Cheeseweed mallow is native to temperate environments where the ideal temperature ranges from 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). While it can adapt to lower temperatures, optimal growth is achieved within this preferred range. Adjustments may be necessary during colder seasons to ensure the plant's health.

Regional wintering strategies
Cheeseweed mallow has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Cheeseweed mallow is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Cheeseweed mallow should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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